5 minute read
Turkish Delight
A weekend guide of culture, culinary traditions, mosques and museums for first-time travellers to Istanbul
By HELEN BROWN
Straddling Asia and Europe, Turkey has been the threshold between the continents for centuries. Formed from a captivating mix of cultures, it’s a land scattered with busy cities, Ottoman palaces, ancientGreek ruins, chic resort towns and, of course, Istanbul.Cleaved in two by the Bosphorous, the city has historically been a crucial gateway between east and west with an unceasing number of enormous vessels making their way up the river towards Russia. Even today, it remains just as important geographically, while being a colourful blur of bazaars, ornate mosques, and trendy modern hangouts (there’s even a Soho House).
A city at the centre of the world, Istanbul’s skyline is crowded with domes and minarets, skyscrapers and elegant bridges. Draped over hills and shorelines, it’s a flurry of motion, art and good food, but despite this twinkling modernity, Istanbul loves tradition - Turkish coffee, Friday prayer and a visit to the hammam.
Each day spent wandering the streets is busy, fast-moving, but around every corner is an unexpected reminder of the past - the cornerstone of a Roman temple laid into the foundation of a mosque or a fragmented Byzantine mosaic peeking out from stucco. And beyond that, a glittering skyline of TV towers and glasshouses. Each new layer is built onto the one before.
Close to two decades of investment has overhauled the city’s infrastructure and brought a sea of changes in the hospitality and retail sectors. Gone are most of the backpacker hostels and in their place, a vast array of four and five-star hotels, including the exceptionally-well placed Ajwa Hotel Sultanahmet. Positioned in the heart of the city’s historic peninsula, it’s the perfect base for exploring some of the number one heritage sites, as well as a handful of top restaurants.
This five-star stay has the air of a grand mansion. Blending the best of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture, Ajwa presents a design inspired by Istanbul’s storied and bejewelled past. It’s jaw-droppingly decadent, a beacon of the city’s historic and continued grandeur, highlighted by the mother of pearlencrusted furniture, silk Tabriz carpets, original artwork, gleaming marble frescos, hand-painted ceilings and specially commissioned tiles that are everywhere in the 61 rooms, suites and public areas.
The Afiya Spa, complete with luxurious hammam, indoor pool, gym, steam room, sauna and snow fountain (yes, really), is where guests can truly lap up the lavishness of it all. The hammam or Turkish bath was an important part of daily life during the Ottoman era and it’s a tradition that remains today. There is no cleaner feeling than returning to your room post-hammam, having been scrubbed and soaped to within an inch of your life, while sprawled on a hot marble slab.
THE LOBBY
Eating out in Istanbul can be as diverse as the city’s heritage with today’s culinary gamut running from sushi to kebab. Locals take it very seriously, so join them at a smoky grill house or under the shaded terrace of a coffee shop, though a visit to Ajwa’s Zeferan restaurant is a must. Azerbaijani fare is the order of the day (by virtue of the Azerbaijani chef) and diners are spoilt with panoramic views over the city and harbour (spot the Blue Mosque).
Out in town, Turkish dining doesn’t get more authentic than at Pandeli, the oldest restaurant in Istanbul. The restaurant has had a chequered century, opening and closing like nobody’s business, but today it enjoys a bustling lunchtime trade from its spot on the second floor of the Egyptian Spice Bazaar. Pandeli’s kofte remains unparalleled and the famous oven-baked quince, slathered with thick syrup and clotted cream, is a necessity for any diner.
ROOM AT THE AJWA HOTEL
From here, you’re not far from the Grand Bazaar, an incredibly impressive albeit overwhelming market, stretching across tens of thousands of square meters. Colourful and chaotic, yes. Relaxing, absolutely not. But you’re guaranteed to bag a bargain on all manner of carpets and crockery, leather goods, fake handbags, Turkish tea, dried fruit, shoes, spices, sweets and perfumes.
Other touristy tick boxes are the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia. Currently undergoing restoration, the Hagia Sophia - originally a Greek Orthodox church, then an Islamic mosque and now a museum - reflects the shift in Istanbul’s civilisation over the ages in a way that is quite extraordinary. Visitors can see ceiling panels where an Islamic geometric design has been superimposed over a faded Christian cross, and where four decorative winged angels have had their faces covered with star-shaped metallic lids to conform with Islam. The Topkapi Palace is a beautifully preserved edifice in marble and gold built in the 15th century as the main residence for the Ottoman sultans. It also boasts a strategic passage, known as the Golden Road, a narrow corridor of honey-coloured stone which leads from the harem to the Sultan’s private quarters. The Blue Mosque is Istanbul’s most photographic building. It’s exterior is an impressive cascade of domes and slender minarets, while the interiors are adorned by the blue iznik tiles that give the building its unofficial but commonly used name.
ISTANBUL'S FAMED ARCHITECTURE
Each of these monuments are within walking distance of each other, and among them are carts selling orange juice and corn on the cob, carpet shops and jewellers, bazaars full of spices, lamps, Turkish delight and handbags.
With such an abundance of historical sightseeing to squeeze in, a cruise on the Bosphorus is probably one of the most overlooked tourist attractions, but do set a few hours aside to take a tour. Viewing the city from the water offers arguably the finest panorama of this amazing city, showcasing Istanbul in all its glory.
THE HAMMAM
AJWA HOTEL
SULTANAHMET
Rates start from £197 per night based on two people sharing a double room on a B&B basis. +90 212 638 22 00 ajwa.com.tr
