Tu r k i s h
DELIGHT A weekend guide of culture, culinary traditions, mosques and museums for first-time travellers to Istanbul By
S
traddling Asia and Europe, Turkey has been the threshold between the continents for centuries. Formed from a captivating mix of cultures, it’s a land scattered with busy cities, Ottoman palaces, ancient Greek ruins, chic resort towns and, of course, Istanbul. Cleaved in two by the Bosphorous, the city has historically been a crucial gateway between east and west with an unceasing number of enormous vessels making their way up the river towards Russia. Even today, it remains just as important geographically, while being a colourful blur of bazaars, ornate mosques, and trendy modern hangouts (there’s even a Soho House). A city at the centre of the world, Istanbul’s skyline is crowded with domes and minarets, skyscrapers and elegant bridges. Draped over hills and shorelines, it’s a flurry of motion, art and good food, but despite this twinkling modernity, Istanbul loves tradition - Turkish coffee, Friday prayer and a visit to the hammam. Each day spent wandering the streets is busy, fast-moving, but around every corner is an unexpected reminder of the past - the cornerstone of a Roman temple laid into the foundation of
96
HELEN BROWN
a mosque or a fragmented Byzantine mosaic peeking out from stucco. And beyond that, a glittering skyline of TV towers and glasshouses. Each new layer is built onto the one before. Close to two decades of investment has overhauled the city’s infrastructure and brought a sea of changes in the hospitality and retail sectors. Gone are most of the backpacker hostels and in their place, a vast array of four and five-star hotels, including the exceptionally-well placed Ajwa Hotel Sultanahmet. Positioned in the heart of the city’s historic peninsula, it’s the perfect base for exploring some of the number one heritage sites, as well as a handful of top restaurants. This five-star stay has the air of a grand mansion. Blending the best of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture, Ajwa presents a design inspired by Istanbul’s storied and bejewelled past. It’s jaw-droppingly decadent, a beacon of the city’s historic and continued grandeur, highlighted by the mother of pearlencrusted furniture, silk Tabriz carpets, original artwork, gleaming marble frescos, hand-painted ceilings and specially commissioned tiles that are everywhere in the 61 rooms, suites and public areas. The Afiya Spa, complete with luxurious hammam, indoor pool, gym, steam room, sauna and snow fountain (yes, really), is where guests can truly lap up the lavishness of it all. The hammam or Turkish
A B S O L U T E LY m a g a z i n e s
ABS_Feb18_ISTANBUL_3pp.indd 96
24/01/2020 14:34
