2007
E X P L O R I N G
S A N TA
F E
A N D
TA O S
EXPLORE ANCIENT RUINS
CULINARY ADVENTURES To Please Any Palate SHIDONI: A National Cultural Resource Experience Our World-Class Galleries
CONTENTS
4
18
12
26
4
8
12
18
19
In the Spotlight Welcome to the publication that embraces the celebrated cities of Santa Fe and Taos.
Fast Facts Take a quick glimpse at five historic churches and missions dominating the Santa Fe / Taos scene.
Tsankawi An easy day trip from either Santa Fe or Taos leads to the fascinating ruins of an ancient culture.
Gallery Crawl Walking tours access two of the world’s top art markets.
Pathfinders in the Arts Early artists settling in Taos and Santa Fe’s Canyon Road unleashed an incredible arts movement.
20
22
24
Great Dining Experiences Culinary excellence and diversity have contributed to one of the greatest dining experiences in the nation.
New Mexico Cuisine The melding of three distinct cultures has produced food unique to this border state.
International Cuisine A world of dining pleasures now contributes to the dining scenes of Santa Fe and Taos
26
30
32
Shidoni A national cultural resource provides a unique day trip adventure.
Fishing the Taos Box Share an angler’s adventure as he battle the big ones.
Condé Nast Readers’ Choice The traveling public rates Santa Fe second in the U.S. as a destination.
ENCANTADA S A N TA
F E
&
TA O S
OUR COVER ®
An ancient footpath worn into solid rock over centuries of time, this is the trail at Tsankawi Ruin, featured on page 12. Located between Santa Fe and Taos, this city of caves is a unit of Bandelier National Monument and is an easy, enjoyable day trip destination for area residents and guests. Photo by Joe Burgess.
Encantada is published annually by Zia Publishing Corp. 116 McKinney Road, P.O. Box 1248, Silver City, NM 88062 505-956-1560 info@ziapublishing.com www.ziapublishing.com President & Managing Director, Terri Menges. Vice President, Joe Burgess. Staff Accountant, Arlyn Cooley. Designers, Debra Sutton & Amanda Yaryan. Contributing Writers, Joe Burgess , Brett Ferneau & M.H. “Dutch” Salmon. Photography, Joe Burgess, except where noted. Encantada is a supplement to New Mexico Traveler and is manufactured and printed in the United States of America. ©Zia Publishing Corp. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without permission of the publisher is prohibited. All submissions of editorial or photography are only accepted without risk to the publisher for loss or damage. Every effort was made to ensure accuracy in the information provided. The publisher assumes no responsibility or liability for errors, changes or omissions.
E2
2007 ENCANTADA
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
An incomparable combination of activities and settings define the Santa Fe–Taos experience.
The life-size bronze sculpture from artist Denny Haskew shown here at the Inn at Loretto is among the fine works at galleries throughout the region.
E4
2007 ENCANTADA
There is no other locale on planet Earth quite like north central New Mexico. An incomparable combination of attractions, activities, arts and antiquities set against stunning landscapes creates an adventure
that
dances
among
lingering
spirits
of
the
ancient Anasazi, Spanish explorers in clanging armor and rugged Old West pioneers. The achievement of international acclaim has certainly challenged the region’s magical small-town charm that feeds the muses of artists and writers, but its casual cultural lifestyle emerged intact, continuing to be a source of envy to people of other states and nations. Dining in five-star restaurants dressed in denim or experiencing an evening of world-renowned opera performed beneath a
top: Shopping Canyon Road or any of the incredible art districts of Santa Fe and Taos is a unique year-round experience. above: Taos Pueblo World Heritage Site represents a thousand years of continuous occupation. IN THE SPOTLIGHT
E5
Taos Ski Valley ranks among the nation’s best and the state’s highest peaks provide unforgettable outdoor Alpine opportunities.
brilliant star-studded sky, quite frankly, is the norm. Supporting the arts and anthropology or engaging in the best of golf, skiing and horseback riding are decidedly influenced by the region’s passionate commitment to the relief of stress. Blue skies, stunning sunsets, blankets of forest and breathtaking terrain are merely the foundation on which that way of life revolves. Welcome to Encantada, the magazine that embraces the celebrated cities of Santa Fe and Taos and champions the region’s incredible lifestyle. The sheer number and diversity of the area’s activities provide literary opportunities that are both daunting and keenly intriguing. The staff of Encantada humbly presents a glimpse into the impressive cultural experience that has emerged from the land and the peoples of North Central New Mexico. Join Encantada in the exploration of an easily accessible Native Puebloan ruin, step into art galleries that engage the senses and uncover the secrets of North Central New Mexico’s culinary success. Visualize the creative process at a nationally recognized foundry and reel in a trophy trout from Rio Grande rapids. Encantada offers you the key that opens the door to an incredible personal journey.
E6
2007 ENCANTADA
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
E7
SANTA FE FAST FACTS
1.
2. 1. The Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe houses the miraculous staircase. This awe-inspiring staircase has two 360˚ turns and was crafted without any nails or visible means of support. Legend has it that the mysterious carpenter who built the structure was believed by the Loretto nuns to have been St. Joseph himself. 2. St. Michael’s Mission Church in Santa Fe is America’s oldest church, built between1610 and 1626. The original structure was burned in 1680 during the Pueblo Revolt and was ordered rebuilt in 1692 by De Vargas. Archaeological investigations of foundations beneath St. Michael’s reveal evidence of Native American occupation as early as 1300 A.D.
E8
2007 ENCANTADA
SANTA FE/TAOS FAST FACTS
4.
3.
5. 3. The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis in Santa Fe is the home of America’s oldest Madonna, La Conquistadora or Our Lady of Conquering Love. The statue was brought to the United States in 1610 and is housed in a small adobe chapel on the northeast side of the cathedral built in 1714. 4. St. Jerome Chapel at Taos Pueblo, first built in 1619, was destroyed in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 and soon was rebuilt on the same site. The Chapel was again destroyed in 1847 by the U.S. Army during the War with Mexico. The
present Chapel was rebuilt at a different location in the Pueblo village in 1850.
5. San Francisco de Asis Church in Ranchos De Taos is the subject of more paintings than any other structure in New Mexico. Photographers capture the shapes, angles and rich hues of the unique structure at various times of day and seasons. Once a year Church members participate in re-mudding the church’s six-foot thick walls.
TSANKAWI
The road less traveled leads to a well-used ancient pathway.
Hikers today are fascinated by the deep footpaths at Tsankawi site near Bandalier National Monument and are awed by the vistas (opposite).
An easy, enjoyable and lesser-known day trip destination for Santa Fe residents and guests is the Tsankawi Ruin, located near the town of White Rock. Post-adventure, Tsankawi’s easy accessibility and proximity to the City Different will allow plenty of time for more sightseeing, a siesta or shopping before an evening meal at one of Santa Fe’s many fine restaurants.
E12
2007 ENCANTADA
TSANKAWI
E13
The ruin, whose name is pronounced “SANK-ah-wee,” is an abandoned city built by Ancestral Pueblo people between 1300 and 1580 AD. Attesting to the veracity of its name, which means “village between two canyons,” Tsankawi stands among stunning views of the surrounding canyons and mountains. Possibly selected as a living site because its geographical location is a natural vantage point, the village was built using a technique that makes Tsankawi a standout among northern New Mexico’s larger, more famous ruins. The foundation of the village is a massive stone outcropping formed from compressed volcanic ash that geologists call ‘tuff.’ Tuff is softer than other types of rock, which allowed the villagers to actually carve out a high-rise city. In many places there was little need to stack rocks or build ladders. A continuous loop path, which visitors still use today, accessed dwellings at the base of the village. Residents living higher on the bluff came and went from their homes using foot- and handholds carved into the vertical rock faces. While the only natural source of water is the river below, some archaeologists believe the village had an elaborate water storage system. The people farmed the surrounding canyons, returning to their city in the sky at day’s end. Over the ages, the ancient perimeter pathway was so well trodden that today’s visitors find places where that path is worn knee-deep in the solid rock. The rounded doorways and oddly shaped above: Steps carved and worn into volcanic tuff direct visitors toward upper levels of the Tsankawi site. top, right: Visitors browse through the ruin on self-guided tours.
E14
2007 ENCANTADA
rooms make the place seem at once eerie, humorous and insightful.
Photo Š Eric Swanson, Santa Fe, NM
The 1 1â „2 mile high-altitude perimeter trail presents no special challenges, although a ladder provides initial access. Reasonable physical fitness and altitude conditioning enhance the experience. Tsankawi Ruin is a separate unit of Bandelier National Monument and is maintained by the National Park Service, which charges a small day-use fee. It is located near the intersection of NM Hwy 502 and NM Hwy 4 west of US Hwy 84/285, about 12 miles north of Santa Fe en route to Los Alamos. Look for the sign on the west side of the road top: Tiny cave dwellings dot the sunny slope of the site. above: Picturesque Tsankawi vistas stretch across the Rio Grande Valley. opposite: Ladders aid the exploration of Tsankawi cave dwellings.
E16
2007 ENCANTADA
south of the stoplight.
A site for retreat-style meetings to the human spirit... Georgia O’Keeffe stayed here, as well as many other notables, such as, D.H. Lawrence, Ansel Adams, Martha Graham and Carl Jung. Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway 800-252-0191 or 505-867-TOUR. www.jemezmountaintrail.org/ New Mexico Tourism Department www.nmtourism.org/ Bandelier National Monument 505-672-3861 Ext. 517. www.nps.gov/band
240 Morada Lane • Taos, New Mexico 87571
505-751-9686 • 800-846-2235 fax: 505-751-0365
E:mail: mabel@mabeldodgeluhan.com • www.mabeldodgeluhan.com TSANKAWI
E17
GALLERY CRAWL
An incredible number of galleries expose the Santa Fe visitor to a wide array of world class work.
In the fine arts world, Santa Fe and Taos are small but mighty cities, containing some of the best art galleries anywhere. In fact, Santa Fe, a city of less than 70,000 people, is the third largest art market in the world and home to more galleries than any other city its size. Most Santa Fe galleries are located in two general areas, Downtown and Canyon Road. Both are within easy walking distance of downtown accommodations and afford a close-up look at the City Different along the way. Locations of Taos galleries radiate outward from Taos Plaza and continue on up Paseo del Pueblo Norte. Many are just a pleasant stroll away from the heart of town. Inside these doors await every style and form of artistic expression, and the hours fly by for viewers as they experience a sumptuous visual feast. Offerings include late 19th century, early 20th century and contemporary representational art, contemporary abstract and expressionist art, folk art, Native American arts and pottery, glass, ceramic and fiber arts, sculpture and fine art photography. In short, there is something for everyone, and all are invited to set aside a day or two for a good ‘gallery crawl.‘
E18
2007 ENCANTADA
PAT H F I N D E R S IN THE ARTS
Exquisite marble sculpture shares the Santa Fe scene.
In 1896, a rut in the road and a broken carriage wheel initiated a migration of visual artists to Taos. Thus began the “artist colony� reputation that it enjoys today. Artists Ernest L. Blumenschein and Bert G. Phillips were touring the Southwest when the incident occurred. The nearest blacksmith was in Taos. Arriving in town, Phillips never left and Blumenschein returned frequently. Both told their friends about the beauty of the Taos area, and the migration was soon underway. In 1915 the two men and four friends founded the Taos Society of Artists. The first artists relocating to Santa Fe did so for the sake of their respiratory health. Carlos Vierra arrived in 1904 for treatment at Sunmount Sanatorium, located on a hill above Canyon Road. Gerald Cassidy, who had entered an Albuquerque sanatorium in 1890 with severe pneumonia and a projected life span of six months, moved to Canyon Road with his wife in 1915. Sheldon Parsons, a New York portrait painter, suffered a relapse of tuberculosis and came to Santa Fe in 1913, eventually staying at the Cassidy house while the couple was traveling. Parsons built his own Canyon Road home and studio in 1924. GALLERY CRAWL
E19
GREAT DINING EXPERIENCES
Culinary diversity and excellence elevate Santa Fe to one of the top cities in the nation for dining and make it unique among communities of similar size. A broad spectrum of international cuisine and creative New Mexico recipes and presentations ensure a lifetime of dining experiences in North Central New Mexico.
E20
2007 ENCANTADA
Santa Fe, with a population of only 63,000 inhabitants, has achieved a level of culinary diversity and excellence unparalleled in cities of similar and even much larger populations. A person could literally dine in a different restaurant seven nights a week for a period of eight months before giving the palate a repeat round of edible bliss. Trying every dish could easily require a lifetime. From home cooking to haute cuisine and everything in between, Santa Fe presents its dining experience in every setting imaginable…the rich and colorful décor of Mexico, the orient, India or Italy…the list goes on. Seeking out restaurants tucked away in the city’s famous Spanish and native New Mexican architecture is but the tip of the iceberg. Bakeries and bistros mingle with barbecue pits. Delis and diners decorate the scene. Whether your tastes run to vegan or Vietnamese, you’ll find something for everyone in the cafés, coffee houses and restaurants of the City Different. New Mexico-grown chile finds its way into dishes ranging from red chile huevos rancheros to the classic green chile cheeseburger, a local favorite. Seafood and steak, sandwiches, soups and salads continue to be popular fare. New traditions in contemporary Southwestern cuisine are constantly being created by some of the finest chefs in the world, and Santa Fe is nationally touted for its focus on the culinary arts. Many of the ingredients used in local restaurants are organically grown in nearby farms and greenhouses, while fresh fish and other wholesome foods are flown in daily. A number of local establishments proudly feature excellent wines from New Mexico vintners and custom-made beers skillfully crafted at local breweries. opposite: Fine dining in small cozy Santa Fe settings reflects the influence of the region’s Pueblo Indian and Spanish heritage. above: Creations utilizing fresh seafood air freighted to the city daily are comparable to any seaside location. right: Oriental cuisine and liquor are among the numerous international fares of Santa Fe. GREAT DINING EXPERIENCES
E21
NEW MEXICO CUISINE
Osteria D’ Assisi Your host, Lino Pertusini, from Lake Como, and staff, invite you to experience authentic regional Italian cuisine, and extensive wine list, great cocktails, world class service in an elegant charming and historical setting.
Enjoy our fireplace, two bars, private rooms and outdoor dining.
Located two blocks from Santa Fe Plaza.
Every Santa Fe restaurant is a gallery of fine dining and artwork.
Across this country, a term that has become increasingly popular and less meaningful in recent years is the phrase, “Mexican food.” With mass production and distribution, fast foods and the “Americanization” of recipes, “Mexican food” in the 21st century can be anything its producer says it is, so long as it involves spice and heat. Not so with New Mexican Cuisine – there is nothing else like it anywhere. While the Hispanic-originated foods here share terminology with other locales, the herbs, spices, flavors and nuances creates a singular dining experience that makes visitors yearn to return for more. To understand what makes our native foods special, we could perhaps best begin
505.986.5858 S OUTH F EDERAL P LACE
•
by trying to shed some light on an old controversy: the word “chile” versus “chili.”
S ANTA F E , NM
The fact is that both words can mean the same thing, or they can each mean very different things.
FAX : 505.986.3938
Besides being the name of a South American country, a chile is the fruit of a .O
S T E R I A
DA
S S I S I
.
N E T
@O
S T E R I A
DA
S S I S I
.
N E T
W W W
I N F O
pepper plant called genus Capsicum. The use of these chiles rather than jalapeno peppers or cumin is an important factor that sets New Mexican food apart from Mexican, Tex-Mex or Mexican-Californian. Although varieties have been developed for specialized use as red or green, the green chiles roasting over an open flame are generally the same as the red chiles comprising the colorful
E22
2007 ENCANTADA
ristras, except that the red chiles were harvested later in the season. With regard to the peppers, either spelling can be regionally correct, and even some growers call their products “chili peppers.” The confusion sets in when the name of this noble fruit collides with that of the dish most of the world knows as chili. Properly called Chili con Carne, this Tex-Mex recipe contains kidney beans, ground beef, red chile powder and usually cumin. Aside from the chiles, New Mexican cuisine in general features more beef, much more cilantro, a different kind of oregano and a more flexible use of both corn and flour tortillas than food in Mexico. It uses fewer jalapenos and less cumin than Tex-Mex, and doesn’t use Chile con Carne at all. It uses less rice, mixed vegetables, seafood and fewer avocados than California style. Now that we’ve analyzed it, let’s go enjoy it, because mere words can’t describe it. At Santa Fe restaurants, native New Mexican recipes have been tested and top: Colorful dishes from the Far East create a delectable spread. above: The best of Italian cuisine attests to the city’s diversity.
handed down for generations, so there’s no better place to get started.
osaka steakhouse & seafood grill Steakhouse: Lunch: Tues.-Sat. 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner: Mon-Sat. 5pm-10pm, Sun 1pm-9pm Bistro: Lunch: Tues-Sat. 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner: Mon-Sat. 5pm-10pm, Sun 1pm-9pm Live Jazz Friday Evenings 8:30pm-11:30pm
3501 Zafarano Drive, Santa Fe, NM 87505
osaka bistro Sushi • Full Bar
(505)471-6698 NEW MEXICO CUISINE
E23
INTERNATIONAL CUISINE
The dessert scene in Santa Fe reflects the competitive excellence achieved by Santa Fe bakers and pastry chefs.
Travelers might circle the globe several times seeking out the cuisines of different cultures. Santa Fe residents and guests, on the other hand, need not leave the area to experience exquisite recipes from every corner of the world. Long famous for its singular native New Mexican foods, the Santa Fe of recent decades has become a showcase for the finest in international fare as well. Do you have a craving for Cajun or a taste for Tai? Some diners choose Chinese; others are fond of French or have that Japanese yen. German? Indian? Italian? This is the place for you. The choices are too numerous to list here. The best savory strategy is simply to set out and explore what Santa Fe has to offer.
International cuisine available in Santa Fe includes, but is not necessarily limited to: Cajun, Chinese, Continental,
French,
German,
Global, Indian, Italian, Japanese, Mediterranean, Mexican, Native American, New Mexican, Spanish, Thai and Vietnamese. The food is served in a variety of settings and features a full range of pricing.
E24
2007 ENCANTADA
SHIDONI
Foundry projects range from small intricate fine art pieces to the worlds largest equestrian.
Since 1971, informed Santa Feans have known that an immense contemporary cultural resource sits unobtrusively in a pastoral setting just five miles north of the City Different. Not as many people are aware, however, that each Saturday, Shidoni Foundry and Galleries in Tesuque becomes a ‘different’ sort of local day trip destination. Here the public can wit-
Photo © Shidoni
ness the creation of fine sculpture, as 2000-degree molten bronze is poured into ceramic shell molds.
E26
Shidoni was the dream of founder Tommy Hicks and his family. The first bronze pour there occurred in an old chicken coop near the river.
2007 ENCANTADA
“Shidoni” is a Navajo word used in greeting a friend, and it perfectly describes the relationship that Shidoni Foundry and Galleries has established with artists and collectors worldwide. Its galleries and sculpture garden represent the work of more than 100 artists from across the country. Situated in an eightacre apple orchard, the sculpture garden is open during daylight hours year-round, and is a delightful day trip destination in itself. The origin of the Shidoni operation is the foundry. While its existence is certainly no secret, its capacity is surprising. Each month the 14,000 square foot facility pours 10,000 pounds of bronze, with as much as 700 pounds going into a single Photos this page © Shidoni
mold. Its skilled craftspeople specialize in enlargement, mold making, lost wax casting, fabrication in a variety of metals, patina, bases, sculpture mounting, installation and handling. The foundry maintains an openness that allows visiting artists to come to Shidoni and work on their creations in a personalized environment. Many of the works are done on a grand scale; for example, “Chisholm Trail” by Paul Moore is 34 feet long and features six life-size longhorn cattle and two cowboys on horseback. It is installed at Clinton, OK. “Having been in the casting business for 36 years, our challenge is keeping everything fresh and demanding,” said Scott Hicks, president of Shidoni, Inc. “Our staff is always eager to take on new adventures. Our gallery has won a people’s choice award from the local newspaper called Best Gallery in Santa Fe.” In addition to the sculpture garden, there are actually two galleries here: the Bronze Gallery and the Shidoni Arts Gallery, both open Mon.-Sat. from 9 to 5. Visiting hours at the foundry are weekdays 12-1 and Saturdays 9-5. Bronze is cast on Saturday afternoons at 1:00, 2:45 and 4:00. Phone 505-988-8001. www.shidoni.com opposite: Shidoni Foundry poured the 500 castings utilized in The Equestrian, the largest bronze equestrian sculpture in the world, located at the entrance to the El Paso International Airport. left: Shidoni’s bronze gallery/sculpture garden offer the largest selection of contemporary sculpture in the Southwest. above: Saturday visitors can watch the casting of 2000 degree bronze into molds for fine art creations. SHIDONI
E27
FISHING THE TAOS BOX By M.H. “Dutch” Salmon
The 90-mile Rio Grande Gorge provides some of the most exciting fishing experiences in New Mexico.
Beginning just below the Colorado border, the Rio Grande Gorge runs for some 90 miles to the town of Velarde where the river begins to open and spread into farm country. It soon becomes a warm water catfish and carp fishery, when it has water at all, but through that 90-mile canyon run it is famed for trout and the occasional monster northern pike. A brief description of two adjacent locales I’m familiar with, in roughly the middle of the canyon, give us a look at what you may find in The Gorge. Just south of the town of Questa is a public trail that will take you down nearly 1000 feet to the confluence of the Red River. Here the Rio Grande is a run of classic pocket water formed by huge basalt boulders. Wading and rock hopping
E30
2007 ENCANTADA
Photos © Jeff Croy, The Reel Life
is tricky and the browns, rainbows and cut-bows cagey enough that next time there I will use a strike indicator; without one these furtive trout will tap your fly and discard it without you ever knowing you had a bite. These are often wild trout, and while a foot-long is common, 20” trout are lurking in the cover of those boulders on the edge of the currents. The next town south is Taos and near here you may access the John Dunne Bridge by vehicle. The river here is wider, more open, and slower. It’s easier to get to, and to fish, which means more fishermen, but it is well stocked with rainbows and a wild lunker brown is still possible. On my visit I caught more trout here than amongst the boulders upstream but still preferred the Red River confluence for its “wild” feel. What works? You may luck into a variety of mayfly or caddis hatches that call for a dry fly approach; other times – indeed anytime – nymphs and wooly buggers will always stand a chance. For more info on fishing The Gorge, near Taos and elsewhere, I recommend Fly Fisher’s Guide to New Mexico by Van Beacham.
top: Brown, rainbow, and cut-bow trout inhabit the Taos Box and an occasional monster Northern Pike. above: Foot-long wild trout are common but the possibility of a 20” trout lurking under a boulder keeps the adrenaline pumping. FISHING THE TAOS BOX
E31
CONDE NAST BEST CITY
Condé Nast Traveler’s® 2006 Readers’ Choice Awards rated Santa Fe second in the nation for top cities to visit.
It was something Santa Feans had suspected for many years, and recently, premier travel magazine Condé Nast Traveler® confirmed those suspicions in a reader’s poll: Santa Fe is one of the top cities to visit in America! The magazine’s 2006 Readers’ Choice Awards rated the City Different second in the nation, just behind San Francisco and ahead of New York City. Wait – those other places are home to millions of people, aren’t they? Yes, and that’s part of what makes Santa Fe’s triumph so sweet. Its small-town ambience combined with international cuisine and a rich cultural tradition has earned the city a standing among the nation’s giants as a travel destination. “It’s always an honor to be recognized by Condé Nast®,” said Thomas Maguire, Acting Executive Director of the Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau. “This award is especially meaningful coming from a poll of 28,000 readers. I think it speaks highly of Santa Fe as a destination.” Other cities in the U.S. top ten were Chicago, Charleston SC, Carmel, Honolulu, Aspen, Seattle and Sedona.
E32
2007 ENCANTADA