2008
E X P L O R I N G S A N TA F E , TA O S A N D N O R T H E R N N E W M E X I C O
DISCOVER
GEOLOGIC WONDERS SOMERS: The art of sculpting SANTA FE BUSINESS: Restaurateurs’ Perspectives A hot mineral water spa celebrates 140 years
CONTENTS
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Santa Fe Welcome to the publication that embraces Santa Fe, Taos and Northern New Mexico.
Bernadette Vadurro An energetic tenth generation Santa Fean is one of the nation’s top Hispanic Entrepreneurs.
Somers Randolph Whether it is Somers jewelry or his massive, yet intricate, marble sculpture, it is conceived and shaped by a sensitive and dedicated Master Sculptor.
16 Pathfinders in the Arts Santa Fe art dealer Joseph Sisneros, a Chimayo native of Spanish descent, focuses on the recognition of Native American work as worldclass art.
24 Chimayo A remote Spanish village continues to build upon a rich heritage of religion and weaving and offers a popular restaurant experience in a historic setting.
ENCANTADA SANTA FE, TAOS & NORTHERN NM
19 Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument Hiking trails through unique geologic formations produce an eerie escape to a world of vistas and fantasies.
26 Ojo Caliente One of the nation’s oldest health spas gave its unique hot mineral spring facilities and accommodations a face lift.
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20 The Business Side of Santa Fe’s World Class Cuisine Key Santa Fe Restaurateurs share their business perspectives of Santa Fe and its unique dining experience.
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OUR COVER
The fascinating spires of Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument are located near Pueblo de Cochiti, just a short distance from Santa Fe. Also known as hoodoos, they are examples of a type of geological formation found only a few places in the world. They were photographed for Encantada by Wendy Young.
Taos A haven for the arts and outdoor activities, Taos and the Enchanted Circle offer an incredibly scenic and cultural experience.
Encantada is published annually by Zia Publishing Corp. 116 McKinney Road, P.O. Box 1248, Silver City, NM 88062, 575-388-4444, info@ziapublishing.com, www.ziapublishing.com. President & Managing Director, Terri Menges. Vice President, Joseph Burgess. Staff Accountant, Arlyn Cooley. Designers, Debra Sutton and Terri Menges. Production Assistant, Melanie Zipin. Contributing Writers, Joseph Burgess and Brett Ferneau. Photography, Joseph Burgess, except where noted. Advertising Sales, Lynn Janes and LeAnne Knudsen. Encantada is a supplement to New Mexico Traveler and is manufactured and printed in the United States of America. ©Zia Publishing Corp. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without permission of the publisher is prohibited. All submissions of editorial or photography are only accepted without risk to the publisher for loss or damage. Every effort was made to ensure accuracy in the information provided. The publisher assumes no responsibility or liability for errors, changes or omissions.
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this page: Vic Payne’s “Thunder at Little Bighorn” sculpture entices Santa Fe visitors to explore the arts. opposite: Estella Loretto’s “The Magical Encounter” contributes to the serene surroundings of her studio.
LOCATION Santa Fe is located at the junction I-25 and US84/285, the historic termination of El Camino Real and the Santa Fe Trail.
TOUR From Santa Fe, travel 16 miles north on US84/285 and turn northeast 11 miles on NM503 and NM520 to Chimayo.
MORE INFORMATION Santa Fe Chamber of Commerce 505.988.3279 www.santafechamber.com E4
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EVENTS May 24-25 Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival. 505-476-1250 Jun 7-8 Spring Festival and Animal Fair. 505-471-2261 Jun 18-21 Rodeo de Santa Fe 505-471-4300 Jun 27 Santa Fe Opera Season opens through Aug 23. 800-280-4654 Jul 5-6 Wine Festival at El Rancho de las Golondrinas 505-471-2261
Jul 12-13 Santa Fe International Folk Art Market at Milner Plaza. 505-476-1200 Santa Fe Chamber Music Jul 20 Festival begins through Aug 25. 888-221-9836. www.sfcmf.org Jul 26-27 Spanish Market on the Plaza. 505-982-2226 Summer Festival and Aug6-7 Frontier Days at El Rancho de las Golondrinas 505-471-2261
Aug 23-24 Indian Market on the Plaza. 505-983-5220. Aug 30-Sept 7 Santa Fe Fiesta.
505-988-7575 Sep 24-28 Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta. 505-438-8060 Harvest Festival at El Oct 4-5 Rancho de las Golondrinas. 505-471-2261 Ski Santa Fe Opens Nov 27 505-982-4429 Santa Fe Film Festival Dec 3-7 505-988-5225
SANTA FE
A destination City that wields significant international clout, Santa Fe sits picture-perfect on the gentle slopes below the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The longest continuously serving capital in the United States has preserved and expanded its Spanish/Pueblo architecture, it is a world-renowned leader in the arts, has an impressive array of distinguished museums and supports a strong multicultural cluster of markets, festivals and pageants. Santa Fe is the first city in the United States recognized by the UNESCO Creative Cities Global Network as a center for art and culture. Established as a regional capital in 1610 by Spain’s third governor of New Mexico, the city has preserved some of the nation's oldest buildings, including the Palace of the Governors, which is the oldest public building in the country, and San Miguel Mission, rebuilt in 1710 over the ruins of its predecessor church constructed in the early 1600s. Preparations have already begun for an incredible 400th year celebration that officially kicks off in 2010. Narrow, old-world streets wind romantically through hundreds of galleries, shops, museums, theaters and restaurants accessible by foot from the town plaza. Despite a population of only 70,000, the staggering concentration of the artistic and cultural venues compare with cities many times its size. Its renowned opera venue and newest museum cluster on “Museum Hill” are only ten minutes driving time from the Plaza.
Dec 6-7 Winter Spanish Market 505-982-2226 Dec 12 Christmas at the Palace 505-476-5100 Dec 24 Farolitos on the Plaza. 800-777-2489
ATTRACTIONS Canyon Road. East of Paseo de Peralta. Originally a Native American trail into the mountains; now lined with unique shops, art galleries, artists' studios, restaurants and local hangouts. 800-777-2489 or 505-955-6200.
EI Rancho de las Golondrinas. South of Santa Fe off I-25. This historical Spanish colonial village, now a living history museum, was a stopping point on EI Camino Real. Call for annual event schedule and tours, 505-471-2261. Hyde Memorial State Park. Eight miles northeast of Santa Fe. Camping, hiking and picnicking. 505-983-7175. www.nmparks.com Loretto Chapel. 207 Old Santa Fe Trail. Houses the miraculous staircase built by a mysterious carpenter believed to have been St. Joseph by the Loretto nuns. 505982-0092. www.lorettochapel.com
Museum Hill. On Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail. Home of the Laboratory of Anthropology, Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, Museum of International Folk Art, Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, and the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian. www.museumhill.org Museum of Fine Arts. 107 W. Palace Ave. Southwest, historical and contemporary art. 505-476-5072. www.mfasantafe.org Palace of the Governors. 105 W. Palace Ave. 17th century building on the old Santa Fe Plaza housing historical exhibits.
The oldest continuously used public building in the US. 505-476-5100. www.palaceofthegovernors.org San Miguel Mission Church. 401 Old Santa Fe Trail. Dates back to first Spanish colonization. Rebuilt following Pueblo Revolt of 1680. 505-983-3974 or 988-9504. Santuario de Guadalupe. 100 S. Guadalupe. Mission museum exhibiting Spanish colonial art. 18th century shrine to Our Lady of Guadalupe. 505-988-2027
SANTA FE
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A city of markets and festivals, thousands of visitors travel to Santa Fe for Indian Market and Spanish Market. The colorful Santa Fe Fiesta has been celebrated annually since 1692. Other major events include the Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta and the new Santa Fe International Folk Art Market. This cultural Mecca is located at the culmination of El Camino Real, the Spanish supply line from Mexico City and the Santa Fe National Historic Trail that brought settlers from Kansas City. Santa Fe also serves as a hub for the Santa Fe Ski Basin, hiking and fishing in the Pecos Wilderness, rafting the Rio Grande, gaming at Indian Casinos and browsing local pueblo markets. Flights from several major cities have now been established for Santa Fe and the commuter train from Albuquerque will soon reach the capital. The 50-acre Railyard project is completing its first phases as a remarkable new center for culture and recreation, while preserving the essence of both the historic and current railroad operations. The new convention center is scheduled for completion in 2008 as is the new wing of the Palace of the Governors Museum.
top: A bronze sculpture of St. Francis welcomes visitors to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi near the plaza in Santa Fe. SANTA FE
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BERNADETTE VADURRO ONE OF AMERICA’S TOP 10 HISPANIC ENTREPRENEURS BY JOSEPH BURGESS
Santa Fe is a community that bubbles over with extreme talent. One of those gifted people is Bernadette TrujilloVadurro, a native Santa Fean who may well be the most enthusiastic individual you will ever meet. Bernadette is a tenth generation New Mexican who was married and began working full time right out of high school. She started her family and college classes simultaneously, managing to graduate Magna Cum Laude from College of Santa Fe. Bernadette launched her own consulting firm, evolved into a highly sought motivational speaker (in 49 states) and has now written the award-winning book, America’s Conscience: Facing Threats to Democracy, the Middle Class and Our World. Bernadette earned Latina Style Magazine’s 2007 Anna Maria Arias Business Fund Award as one of the nation’s top ten Hispanic Entrepreneurs. www.speakerslive.com inset: Five generations of Bernadette’s family include, in the top row, daughter Christy Brown and mother Eva Parker. In the bottom row are Bernadette with granddaughter Summer Brown and grandmother Lucy Ortiz at 101 years old.
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SOMERS RANDOLPH WHEN CREATIVITY COMBINES WITH TECHNICAL ABILITIES THE RESULT IS A SUPERB MASTERY OF MATERIAL WRITTEN BY JOSEPH BURGESS
“My gift is one of form,” states Santa Fe sculptor Somers Randolph, “whether it’s a delicate soapstone carving in the palm of your hand or a five-foot marble sculpture that anchors the far end of your rose garden.” "Alabama Marble, 64". E11
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photo ŠJoseph Burgess 2007
photo by Somers Randolph photo ©Joseph Burgess 2007
philosophy, has pounded rock for 30 years and never held a real job. “I’ll stand by that statement,” he quips, “I’m proud of my work, and it may well be more difficult to graduate from Princeton and succeed as an artist than it is to become a CEO.” Both the dedicated collector who has researched his story and the casual acquaintance can immediately recognize the absolute passion he pours into every piece he produces, large or small. When creativity combines with technical abilities the result is a superb mastery of material. A burly six-foot-seven stone carver who might very well have posed for the Hildebrandt illustration of a sword-wield-
photo ©Joseph Burgess 2007
photo by Wendy McEahwern
Somers’ friends joke that the Princeton graduate, a student of art history and
opposite page and top, right: Somers Randolph whittles Montana soapstone, creating tiny intricate sculpture as models for his exquisite line of gold and silver jewelry. above, left: Somers Randolph, Master Stone Sculptor. above, middle and bottom: An 80-lb fine art sculpture may have begun the lengthy and unforgiving process as an 800-lb block of marble.
ing J.R.R. Tolkien character has instead molded his own life-long adventure. With
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gigantic hands, he carves tiny intricate soapstone shapes and graceful tall stone sculptures weighing hundreds of pounds. His magnificent stature seems essential for grappling a massive block of marble destined to become a focal point of some corporate rotunda. Somers studied sculpture at Corcoran School of Art in Washington D.C. and in 1975 apprenticed in Pietrasanta, Italy. “I worked side-by-side with experienced marble carvers and the knowledge gained was invaluable. A stone carver develops a relationship between his material and his tools over years of trial and error. It’s easy to teach someone how to safely use a tool, but not when to stop using that tool. Stone is unforgiving and the knowledge that transforms it into a collectable work of art is acquired, quite frankly, from going too far. I've broken many, many pieces. My ability to create curves and loops from a chunk of alabaster or fine translucent edges on a blade of marble has evolved over three decades of finetuning the techniques of carving, sanding and polishing rock.” Twenty-five years is the industry standard for earning the title of master craftsman. Sculpture from the hands of the world’s master craftsmen is perceived by collectors and investors to be the art that will continue to grow in value. That has certainly been the case for Somers Randolph, whose years of sculpting have forged a steady rise in value for those investing in his work. While many artists make molds and bronze editions of their stone sculpture, Randolph holds true to the unique spirit of carving. He finishes one piece and this page, clockwise from top, left: Portoro Marble on Travertine, 58"; Black Belgian Marble on Persian Travertine, 52"; Italian Alabaster on Antique Verde, 24"; Black Belgian Marble on Vatican Marble, 60". opposite, clockwise, from top right: North Carolina Imperial Blue Marble on Black Belgian Marble, 70"; Turkish Rosa Laguna Marble, 32"; Green Mojave Marble on New Mexico Travertine, 36"; Italian Alabaster on Black Belgian marble, 18"; Italian Alabaster on Persian Travertine, 24". Photos including Alabama Marble photo on page 11 by Wendy McEahwern.
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then begins sculpting the next from a block of stone, no copies, no editions. Slabs and pillars of domestic materials, often handpicked by Somers from quarries in California, Wyoming and Utah, and those originating from locations worldwide stand like Roman sentinels surrounding Somers’ Santa Fe workspace. Italian marble shipped from the Carrara quarries used by Michelangelo, Portoro black and gold marble also from Italy, Persian Travertine, Turkish red and Mojave green marbles, and stone from Belgium
SCULPTURE FROM THE WORLD’S MASTER CRAFTSMEN IS PERCEIVED BY COLLECTORS AND INVESTORS TO BE THE PIECES THAT WILL CONTINUE TO GROW IN VALUE. and India generate an international kaleidoscope of nature’s designs. The heartbeat of the master craftsman pounds and creative juices flow as colors, swirls and grain are considered and then painstakingly and deliberately cut, chiseled and polished into the timeless piece of art that could only have resulted from that particular piece of stone. Cradled by Santa Fe’s Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the airy and eclectic studio where these exquisite works are made is in itself a tribute to the sculptor. Somers is at home in the shop that he built with beams from an old warehouse in Nashville. Even his workbench is made of heavy hand-hewn poplar logs pulled from an 1800s brick building, beams that were recycled from a settler's earlier structure. New Mexico is a logical choice for this time in Randolph's life. "Driving across the country has been one of my greatest pleasures since my first college road trip. Even after I gave up on the interstates, I would always pause in Santa Fe, visit the old flea market or stay for the weekend. Something wonderful always happened here. Santa Fe is a spiritual experience that still makes my hair tingle. What hair I have left, that is.” Contact Somers Randolph at www. somersrandolph.com.
SOMERS JEWELRY A Somers? Of course it’s a Somers. That fascinating and delicate gold pendant draped lightly from your neck is actually a Somers Randolph sculpture, designed and meticulously shaped by a master carver. A three-foot, hundredpound Somers Randolph carving may already anchor your art collection and a graceful thousand pound one-of-a-kind Somers Randolph sculpture could be the centerpiece of your courtyard. Sculpture and jewelry originating from the same genius is a conversation catalyst for soirees from Minneapolis to Dubai. In fact, the brand was suggested by customers greeting each other just that way, “Is that a Somers?” It was
Somers’ wife Hillary who turned the sculptor’s pastime of whittling into gold. When she discovered hundreds of intriguing soapstone shapes piled haphazardly in a trunk, she convinced Somers that a line of gold and silver jewelry held a place in his future. Now the important lady in anyone’s life can join the list of discriminating women who appreciate elegant creativity and the rare alchemy of sculpted stone turned into gold and silver. Just seven years later, Somers jewelry is available internationally under the Somers name, honoring the sculptor who breathes new life into stone. Contact Somers Jewelry at www.somersjewelry.com.
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PATHFINDERS IN THE ARTS
THE
RANCHO DE CHIMAYO COLLECTION BY JOSEPH BURGESS “I may spend hours with a customer or group,” says Santa Fe art dealer Joseph Sisneros, “readily sharing my knowledge of Native American work.” Owner of The Rancho de Chimayo Collection in Santa Fe’s Sena Plaza, Sisneros and his staff create an experience that may turn a first-time buyer into a collector. Joseph’s mentor, Don Ortiz, and his Godfather, Arturo Jaramillo, taught him that a sale is an educational process, customers must be treated like family and you have to be able to speak with passion about a piece in the language of the buyer. “It is, after all, collectors who keep the arts and culture alive,” states Sisneros. “I deal only with the work of top Native American artisans whose art pieces can compete in an international market. My customers purchase pottery or jewelry that falls within their budget with the option to trade upward at any time…it’s a lifetime trade.”
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“Native American pottery is very difficult to produce,” Joseph points out. “The indigenous clays have to be high quality and they are fired outside, making them susceptible to the elements. The intricate artwork may take weeks or months to complete and the sanding and polishing require an experienced touch. Even the fuel used for the fire affects the outcome of the pot.” “I am very concerned that there are fewer Native American families continuing to produce the traditional art forms. San Ildefonso Pueblo, for example, is famous for its fine black on black pottery. Potter Carmelita Dunlop taught her daughter Linda, who in turn is passing her skills to daughter Shauna, but prob-
above: A collection of Native American pottery by famed San Ildefonso Pueblo potter Carmelita Dunlop and family members Linda, Shanna and Carlos can be found at The Rancho de Chimayo Collection in Santa Fe.
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ably only 18 full-time potters remain in the pueblo.” Tracing his own lineage to Spaniards arriving in Mexico with Francisco Coronado, Joseph’s paternal ancestry settled in Chimayo in the 1600s. His mother’s family settled on San Ildefonso Pueblo in the 1700s, thus establishing his ties to both cultures. The 1890 family home that became Rancho de Chimayo restaurant serves as a second outlet for his Native American arts. Joseph’s parents traveled to European art capitals and his mother Esmelda raised him around music and both portrait and architectural art. After attending College of Santa Fe, he studied two years at the Angelicum, the Dominican headquarters in Rome. Joseph’s personal objective is to “live the beauty of Native American people” and to represent them as deserving artisans. “For too long, Native American work was treated as a commodity rather than a piece of exquisite art.” Furnishing an 1860s family home in downtown Santa Fe, Joseph will provide a period venue for art openings and accommodations for patrons and guests of the galleries.
top: The Rancho de Chimayo Collection in Santa Fe’s Sena Plaza is an outlet for collectable Native American pottery, jewelry and art.
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Osteria D’ Assisi Your host, Lino Pertusini, from Lake Como, and staff, invite you to experience authentic regional Italian cuisine, and extensive wine list, great cocktails, world class service in an elegant charming and historical setting.
Enjoy our fireplace, two bars, private rooms and outdoor dining.
KASHA-KATUWE
Located two blocks from Santa Fe Plaza.
TENT ROCKS NATIONAL MONUMENT BY BRETT FERNEAU This easy, fun and fascinating day trip takes hikers through a series of tent rocks, examples of a distinct type of volcanic rock formation found in only a few places around the world. Also known as hoodoos, the conical spires had their beginnings in a huge volcanic eruption millions of years ago. Thick layers of volcanic ash fused together to form a rock substance that geologists call tuff. Lava flows and other events deposited a layer of harder rock on top of that. As the forces or erosion went to work through the eons, the harder rock above protected the softer rock below, resulting in the teepee-like formations we see today. Some of the spires retain their protective ‘cap rocks,’ which eventually topple and expose the tips of the cones. While Kasha-Katuwe means ‘white cliffs’ in the native language of nearby Pueblo de Cochiti, the formations are banded with pink, beige and gray. The national monument has two trails for foot traffic only. The Cave Loop Trail is 1.2 miles in length and rated as easy. The Canyon Trail is 1.5 miles long and more difficult. It includes a 630-foot climb to the top of the mesa, where the views are spectacular. The U.S. Department of the Interior’s Bureau of Land Management (BLM) manages Kasha-Katuwe, which it considers to be an “Area of Critical Environmental Concern.” In other words, it is geologically fragile. Please stay on the trails, and note that climbing on the hoodoos is forbidden. The national monument is a day-use area only, and charges a nominal fee. To get there, head south from Santa Fe on Interstate 25. Take the Cochiti Pueblo Exit 264 off I-25 onto NM16. Turn right off NM16 onto NM22 and follow the signs. For more information contact the BLM Rio Puerco Field Office at 505-761-8700.
505.986.5858 S OUTH F EDERAL P LACE S ANTA F E , NM FAX : 505.986.3938 W W W. INFO
OSTERIADASSISI.NET
@OSTERIADASSISI.NET
TENT ROCKS NATIONAL MONUMENT
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DINING “different” in the CITY different THE BUSINESS SIDE OF SANTA FE’S WORLD CLASS CUISINE WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOSEPH BURGESS Santa Fe is undeniably the jewel of the Land of Enchantment, but its tourism draw peaked in the 1990’s. As the community entered the third millennium, restaurateurs faced business challenges that required a recommitment to the fundamentals that made Santa Fe a national treasure. Despite diverse perspectives, key restaurateurs are unanimous in their commitment to work together for a stronger community. “We have to distinguish Santa Fe as a welcoming city,” states Vanessie owner Fran Mullen. “Restaurants in particular can take nothing for granted with regard to
Al Lucero, owner Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen New Mexico Tourism Commission Chairman, 2004 New Mexico Restaurateur of the Year and Santa Fe Native Al Lucero anticipates an exciting decade of growth for the city. “The 400th anniversary celebration, the Railyard development, new Palace of the Governors wing and new civic center will entice additional year-round business. The new Folk Art Festival is already attracting thousands of visitors.” He also points to increasing holiday traffic bolstered by European visitors taking advantage of the weak dollar. Maria’s is recognized for its Northern New Mexico cuisine and over 100 variations of its “premium” margaritas.
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either our local patrons or our out-oftown guests. We became complacent in the ‘90s and today Santa Fe must quickly overcome any sense of entitlement.” Restaurateurs agree that Santa Fe is in competition with other destination cities, that service is critical and, with the highest minimum wage in the country, the city must continue to improve marketing capabilities. “Santa Fe is a romantic city,” says Pranzo owner Michael O’Reilly. “It has the amenities of much larger international cities, but differs in that hundreds of shops, galleries, museums, theater productions and restaurants can be accessed on foot from downtown hotels.” Completion of the new civic center, direct air service from several major U.S. cities and extended commuter train service from Albuquerque represent major opportunities. Seasonality is a challenge that every restaurateur is forced to grapple. With
Lino Pertusini, owner Osteria d'Assisi
Heather & David Sellers, owners Amavi
Drawn to Santa Fe by its arts and beauty, Italian “Cavalier della Repubblica” Lino Pertusini discovered an inter-national town with many people who have lived and traveled abroad. “Santa Fe supports a large variety of aggressive and competitive restaurants. The town attracts great chefs and qualified staffs, many of whom have worked in European and major U.S. restaurants and hotels.” Osteria offers specific regional Italian cuisine, wine and cocktails and frequently features guest chefs from Italy to fulfill Santa Fe’s sophisticated palate.
David and Heather Sellers latched onto a good restaurant with an excellent location and breathed a romantic old-world ambiance into it. “We are confident about our restaurant venture because people in Santa Fe appreciate good food. We also work very hard to attract visitors from the city’s hotels. We are, in fact, supportive of all fine-dining establishments in the area because we certainly want our visitors to enjoy a great dining experience every night they spend in Santa Fe.”
one of the shortest peak seasons of any destination city, developing local clientele is critical. O’Reilly and Mullen are strong supporters of local non-profits and keep patrons informed about dining and entertainment opportunities. Maria’s owner Al Lucero says a strong local following also influences visitor dining decisions.
Annette Lujan, GM Fusion Santa Fe native Annette Lujan has been a chef for 15 years, studied Italian in Milan, attended culinary school in Albuquerque and now manages the eclectic Fusion. “The fiestas help the bar, but the restaurant is very dependent on our relationship with the hotels.” Annette also commented on the challenges a woman faces in the food and beverage industry. The single mother of seven is very appreciative of Fusion’s commitment to family priorities.
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Eric LaMalle, owner Ristra
Mark Kiffin, owner The Compound
Eric LaMalle came to New Mexico from France initially to teach skiing in Taos and later opened a restaurant there before coming to Santa Fe. “With a growing retirement population, we are building a strong local clientele base, but must maintain our appeal to hotel guests.” Eric captures the simple, but powerful spirit of New Mexico in both his French-inspired menu and his contemporary décor. He has twice been invited to cook by the James Beard Foundation.
Mark Kiffin states that his cuisine, influenced by the introduction of Spanish products from the Mediterranean region, is truly the regional food of Santa Fe. He purchases food from the suppliers who best serve the needs of the restaurant and changes his menu totally with each of Santa Fe’s four seasons. Mark is a board member of Santa Fe’s Wine and Chile Festival and recipient of the coveted James Beard Foundation award as Best Chef for the Southwest Division.
The James Beard Foundation The culinary industry’s most prestigious recognition program is undoubtedly the awards presented by the James Beard Foundation. Restaurants, restaurateurs, chefs and beverage personnel from various regions of the United States annually receive awards in recognition of their achievements. The late James Beard was a journalist, food consultant and teacher whose Greenwich Village home serves as the venue for showcasing the nation’s finest professional culinary presentations. Since 1986, the foundation has also supported educational opportunities and scholarships, workshops, food-related art exhibits, lectures and tastings. www.jamesbeard.org
osaka steakhouse & seafood grill Steakhouse: Lunch: Tues.-Sat. 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner: Mon-Sat. 5pm-10pm, Sun 1pm-9pm Bistro: Lunch: Tues-Sat. 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner: Mon-Sat. 5pm-10pm, Sun 1pm-9pm Live Jazz Friday Evenings 8:30pm-11:30pm
3501 Zafarano Drive, Santa Fe, NM 87505
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(505)471-6698
osaka bistro Sushi • Full Bar
Santa Fe is a city of markets and festivals. Lucero notes that the new International Folk Art Festival is already
drawing
thousands
to
Museum Hill. Mark Kiffin, owner of The Compound is a board member of the Wine and Chile Festival. “I want Santa Fe to be busy,” Mark states, “and the festivals are huge attractions.” Mark also targets people who will fly to Santa Fe for dinner. “I want Denver, Dallas and Phoenix dining in Santa Fe, but we compete with Aspen and Sedona for that privilege. I challenge local businesses to get creative, to help Santa Fe grow.” Commenting on the 15 or so local restaurants he considers destination restaurants, O’Reilly concludes, “We try to be personal, we hire real chefs and we serve real food. Santa Fe dining is an exceptional experience.”
Fran Mullen, owner Vanessie Continental Grill and Piano Bar Fran Mullen, former CEO of Canada Dry, relates that the merging of cultures over hundreds of years created unique diversity for Santa Fe’s markets, museums and the arts – a draw for people from around the world. “Santa Fe must, however, promote itself as a welcoming destination and enthusiastically support its markets.” Vanessie’s offers a full menu of “Great American Cuisine” as well as a special bar menu. It serves unique hot drinks, “only the best martinis” and features nightly live entertainment.
Michael O’Reilly, owner Pranzo Italian Grill and O’Keeffe Cafe Michael O’Reilly, formerly a marketer for Robert Mondavi wines states that despite a population of only 70,000, Santa Fe competes with much larger US cities regarding the arts and of course its restaurants. “Santa Fe is a romantic city where a car is not required.” Pranzo offers steak and Italian favorites, nightly live entertainment and family specials, while the historic and award-winning O’Keeffe Café leans toward classical French techniques and offers wines chosen from the world’s top 2%.
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CHIMAYO
Traditions run deep in the Spanish mountain village of Chimay贸. For centuries, religious pilgrims have journeyed on foot from near and far to El Santuario de Chimay贸 during Holy Week. Originally utilized by area Native Americans, it is still believed that the soil possesses restorative powers. The walls of the sacristy are covered with discarded crutches and other mementoes of healing.
LOCATION Chimayo is located at the junction of NM520 and NM76, on the old Spanish High Road to Taos.
EVENTS
ATTRACTIONS
Mar 20-22 Annual pilgrimage to Santuario de Chimayo. 505-351-4889
Chimayo History Museum. Area Exhibits. 505-351-0945 Santuario de Chimayo. Legendary shrine built in 1813-1816. 505-351-4889
TOUR Travel west about 10 miles on NM76, jogging south on NM60 a mile through Espanola and turning northwest 6 miles on US84/285. Turn north across the Chama River staying with US285 18 miles to the mineral springs of Ojo Caliente.
MORE INFORMATION
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Rancho de Chimayo Restaurante 505-984-2100 or 505-351-4444. www.ranchodechimayo.com Santuario de Chimayo Gift Shop 505-351-4889. www.holychimayo.us
European weaving techniques arrived with the original Spanish settlers in the 17th century and developed into the classic Chimayó/Rio Grande weaving styles. Today local weavers continue the tradition, including award-winning master weavers Irvin and Lisa Trujillo. Their gallery features the work of weavers who utilize natural dyes and handspun yarn to create custom yarn and handwoven items in the time-honored style of the area. Products include rugs, blankets, vests, jackets, coats and purses. In the 1800s, two brothers named Hermenegildo and Epifiano Jaramillo helped each other build houses across the lane from each other along the Spanish Colonial “High Road to Taos.” Hermenegildo’s grandson Arturo Jaramillo and his wife Florence remodeled the historic house, opening Rancho de Chimayó Restaurant in 1965. The restaurant, with spacious indoor and patio dining is world-renowned for its New Mexican cuisine. Hacienda Rancho de Chimayó located across the highway from the restaurant, was renovated in 1984. It is a quiet seven-room bed and breakfast with enclosed courtyard, antique furniture, sitting rooms and fireplaces throughout.
opposite: The quaint Santuario de Chimayó was built on a site believed for centuries to have healing dirt. inset: Rancho de Chimayo Restaurante at dusk in the winter. above: Seven rock sculptures parallel the creek behind Santuario de Chimayo. CHIMAYO
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OJO CALIENTE
With a multi-million dollar renovation in its final stages of completion, the 1100-acre Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs and Spa is one of the nation’s oldest and certainly popular centers for natural health and rejuvenation. It is the world’s only known natural hot springs with a combination of four geothermal mineral waters. Celebrating 140 years of operation since New Mexico’s first congressional territorial representative, Antonio Joseph, opened the first health spa at Ojo Caliente, the health resort has become more accommodating with the addition of Pueblo and Cliffside suites and the renovation of cottages, the Adobe House hotel and the Adobe Round Barn. All new construction has emphasized the latest in “green” technology and conservation.
Attractions Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs 50 Los Baños Drive off US285. Seven Mineral pools, private mineral baths. Lodging, spa treatments, gift shop. 800-222-9162 or 505-583-2233 www.ojocalientespa.com
MORE INFORMATION ojocaliente.com
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LOCATION Ojo Caliente is located on US285, featuring a health spa utilizing warm spring water flowing from four distinct mineral sources.
TOUR Retrace the route south to the junction of US84/285 and southeast to Espanola. Turn northeast on NM 68, traveling 46 miles to Taos. An alternate route from Ojo Caliente is to travel north 30 miles on US 285 and east 27 miles on US64, crossing the Rio Grande Gorge to Taos.
Ten meticulously maintained mineral pools, including three outdoor private pools and a mud pool, are considered to be beneficial for a number of physical conditions. The four distinctly different natural hot water sources combined with physical therapy options provide an amazing opportunity to enhance healthful living and relax in an uncomplicated setting. Ancient pueblo ruins on the grounds indicate use of the waters for centuries by native populations. It was named by Spanish explorers in the 1500s, noting that the local Indian inhabitants believed the waters “were given to them by their gods.� Ojo Caliente was re-discovered by Zebulon Pike in 1807 as he was being marched to Santa Fe under arrest for exploring New Spain without permission. Ojo Caliente is easily accessed from Santa Fe and Taos. opposite: The dining room in the renovated Adobe House hotel. inset: Ten pools are fed by natural hot springs supplying four distinct mineral contents. top: A cliffside pool supplied with water containing high iron mineralization. above: The historic Adobe Round Barn with its award-winning restoration produced a spiritual setting for a variety of gatherings. Photos courtesy Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs. OJO CALIENTE
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LOCATION Taos is located at the junction of US64, NM68 and NM522 between New Mexico’s highest peaks and deepest gorge.
TOUR Travel 42 miles southeast on NM 518 from Ranchos de Taos to Mora and another 11 miles south on NM 94 and NM105 to Rociada, or return to Santa Fe via NM68 and US84/285.
MORE INFORMATION Taos Chamber of Commerce 800-732-8267 or 505-758-3873. www.taoschamber.com.
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ATTRACTIONS Gov. Bent House & Museum. l17A Bent St. Home of first territorial governor. Old family furnishings and frontier artifacts on display. 505-758-2376. Millicent Rogers Museum. 1504 Millicent Rogers Rd. New Mexico art, history and cultural exhibits. 505-758-2462. www.millicentrogers.org
Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. 11 miles northwest of Taos. 650 feet above the Rio Grande River. Taos Pueblo. Designated as a World Heritage Site. 505-758-1028. www.taospueblo.com Taos Ski Valley. Ski school rated No.1. Vast system of trails for beginning, intermediate and expert skiers. 505-776-229l. www.skitaos.org
TAOS
The shear mysticism of Taos, a centuries-old melding pot of cultural development, natural beauty and an endless supply of brilliant sunshine, has captured the hearts of America’s artists, writers, historians and anyone else who simply want to experience the essence of New Mexico’s enchanted spirit. The multistoried structures of Taos Pueblo, occupied for nearly a millennium below New Mexico’s tallest peaks, the bold adobe walls of San Francisco de Asis church in Ranchos de Taos and the stark contrasts created by the river and its gorge fill portfolios and manuscripts with the jewels of this high desert destination. The area was first recognized for its incredible sunlight and rich culture by east coast artists Bert G. Phillips and Ernest L. Blumenschein in the late 1800s whose decision to make Taos their home led to the formation of the Taos Society of Artists in 1915. Mabel Dodge and Millicent Rogers began enticing their creative friends to visit Taos in those early years, establishing the region’s bond with familiar names like DH Lawrence, Georgia O'Keeffe and Ansel Adams. Today, fanning out from the town plaza, streets lined with galleries, museums, shops, quaint coffee houses and hotels touch the creative spirit within each of us. Huge cottonwood trees, seasonal flowers and crackling fireplaces warm the atmosphere of this high altitude plateau year round and keep the doors open to thousands of visitors. An impressive collection of museums maintains the historic perspectives of Taos. From ancient pottery makers and Spanish and Native American weavers to a host of twentieth century artisans, Taos museums showcase the region’s diverse cultures and multifaceted pool of talent.
left: The multistoried structure of Taos Pueblo, occupied continuously for hundreds of years is the only Native American community designated both as a National Historic landmark and a World Heritage Site.
EVENTS May 1-31 May 3 Mar 9-11 Jun
13
Jun
24
25th annual Spring Arts Celebration 505-785-3911 Santa Cruz Feast Day at Taos Pueblo. 505-758-1028. www.taospueblo.com Spring Arts & Crafts Fair. 800-732-8267 www.taoschamber.com San Antonio Feast Day Corn Dance at Taos Pueblo. 505-758-1028 www.taospueblo.com San Juan Day Corn Dance. 505-758-1028 www.taospueblo.com
Jun
27-29
10th annual Solar Music Festival at Taos Pueblo. 505-758-9191 www.solarmusicfest.com Jul 11-13 Annual Taos Pow Wow. 505-758-1028 Apr 9 San Lorenzo Sunset Dance at Picuris Pueblo. 505-587-2519 Apr 22-24 Taos Autumn Run Classic Car Show. 505-758-1405 Sep 27-Oct 17 Taos Fall Arts Festival 505-758-5015 or 800-732-8267 www.taosfallarts.com
Oct
25-26
Nov 20 Dec 25 Dec 25
9th Annual Taos Storytelling Festival. 505-758-0081 www.somostaos.org Yuletide in Taos begins. through Dec. 31. 505-758-3873 www.taoschamber.com Taos Pueblo Deer or Matachina Dance 505-758-1028. pueblo.com Matachina Dance at Picuris Pueblo. 505-587-2519 www.picurispueblo.net
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There is no end to the outdoor opportunities hosted by this scenic wonderland. The question becomes in which season should the adventure begin. If winter sports are your passion, the Enchanted Circle includes the adrenaline-charged slopes of Taos Ski Valley, Red River, Sipapu and Angel Fire and a mellow ice-fishing hole at Eagle Nest Lake. The region’s dry climate and that prevailing New Mexico sunshine produce the lightest, driest, fluffiest powder possible for outstanding ski and snowboard conditions. High speed lifts, snowmobiles, hot air balloons and great dining and entertainment complete this plein air sketch of a perfect winter getaway. Summer activities are no less challenging. White water rafting, fly fishing, hiking, biking, horseback and llama treks, and yes, lifts are still running and the nightlife steaming. For those of us using the excuse of an old skiing injury, driving and shopping the Enchanted Circle can be equally exhilarating. The evening may consist of listening, instead of dancing to the live music, but excellent food, wine, a round of Las Vegas style gambling and a hot rock massage provide an incredible diversion to sore muscles. top: New Mexico’s highest mountains peak through the huge cottonwood trees in the Taos Plaza.
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