2015 New Mexico Traveler

2015 Your Tour Guide to the Land of Enchantment and Surrounding Areas

Exploring the Land the Art & the People

Dyed and inlaid tagua nut necklace with gold filled spacers and clasp.

B EEMAN

J E W E L R Y

D E S I G N •

•

877.927.6737 • 505.726.9100 • beemanjewelrydesign.com

ROBERT RIVERA

Ghost Mask with Pottery Shards (67” diameter)

Home of Robert Rivera’s Extraordinary Gourd Art (505) 986-8914 102 East Water Street • Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 • www.torresgallery.com • info@torresgallery.com

Contents OUR COVER

Let’s face it, New Mexico is great place to eat! Outstanding dining establishments and street food trucks alike are popping up, making the Land of Enchantment a destination for foodies.

Staff Photographer Robert “Jaime” Ramirez captured the serene allure of fresh chiles at one of Santa Fe’s newest eateries, Radish & Rye. We’ve always known our chiles are a work of art!

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TOURS 8

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Santa Fe The oldest capital in the U.S. supports galleries, performing arts and unequalled shopping and dining.

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Northern Mountains The state’s highest peaks, deepest canyons and world renowned art markets and spas make the region a world class destination.

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Indian Country The Indian jewelry and crafts capital of the world, Northwest New Mexico is also the center of the ancient Anasazi culture.

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Southern New Mexico The world-renowned natural wonders in the Southeast region coupled with the ghost towns, museums lakes and forests of the Southwest make this a world renowned destination.

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Silver City With 3 million acres of forest and wilderness, 1500 miles of trails, 300+ species of birds, award winning restaurants and galleries and the best year-round temperatures...anywhere make this a top vacation and relocation destination.

FEATURES 6

18 24 28 32 34 40 42 44 50 58 70 86 90

Welcome to New Mexico The heart of Native American, Spanish and Old West cultures. New Mexico provides experiences found no where else in the world. The foods, wares, art, technology, preservation of human involvement and breadth of adventure are unparalleled.

Fine Dining French Restaurants Asian Cuisine Bar B Que at it’s Best Comfort Food Farm Inspired Cuisine Modernist Foraged Cuisine Historic Hotels, Lodges & Inns Historic Restaurants Trading Posts Parks, Monuments & Historic Sites Ghost Towns Museums

Albuquerque The population and business center of the state is home to Historic Route 66, museums, casinos and the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta.

COMMUNITIES 8 14 52 54 62 67 68 73 74 75 76 84 87 88 89 94

Albuquerque Santa Fe Ojo Caliente Taos Pueblo of Zuni Roswell Ruidoso Alamogordo Socorro Elephant Butte Silver City Deming Lordsburg, Shakespeare Glenwood, Mogollon Pinos Altos Las Cruces

DEPARTMENTS 10 47 82 91 96

Exclusively NM Dining, Spa, B&B Guide Exclusively Silver City NM Museums Index of Advertisers

New Mexico

2015

TRAVELER

New Mexico Traveler is published annually by Zia Publishing Corp. P.O. Box 1248, Silver City, NM, 116 McKinney Road, 88062, 575-388-4444, info@ziapublishing.com, www.ziapublishing.com, www.travelernm.com. President & Managing Director: Terri Menges. Vice President: Joseph Burgess. Staff Accountant: Arlyn Cooley, New Mexico Sales Manager and Photo Journalist: Robert “Jaime” Ramirez.

Designers: Debra Sutton, Terri Menges, Yessica Nograro-Borquez. Contributing Writers: Joseph Burgess, Tom Kennedy, Kate McGraw.

Photography: Joseph Burgess, except where noted. Contributing Photographers: Anthony Howell, Tom Kennedy, LeAnne Knudsen, Robert “Jaime” Ramirez, Debra Sutton. Courtesy Photos: Hamza Daoui, Michael Karshis, Susan LaFont, Larry Lamsa, Rancho de Chimayo, Richardson Trading Co., Ben Sutherland, Western New Mexico University Museum, The NAN Ranch Collection. Advertising Sales: LeAnne Knudsen, Sheri Mann, Mary-Catherine Meek, Robert “Jaime” Ramirez. Special Thanks: Judith Leyba for her contribution to the 2015 issue.

TO ORDER PERSONAL COPIES OF NEW MEXICO TRAVELER: Soft Bound $12.95. Outside the USA: Please call for rates. Back Issues available. Call or email New Mexico Traveler is manufactured and printed in the United States of America. ©Zia Publishing Corp. 2015. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part arlyn@ziapublishing.com without permission of the publisher is prohibited. All submissions of editorial or photography are only accepted without risk to the publisher for loss or damage.

1-575-388-4444 x10.

Every effort was made to ensure accuracy in the information provided. The publisher assumes no responsibility or liability for errors, changes or omissions.

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Farm to Table inspired cuisine including our menu of Brazen Bourbon and our beautiful Spirited Patio 548 Agua Fria Street • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • (505) 930-5325 • radishandrye.com

WELCOME TO

NEW MEXICO A treasure trove of art, history and cultural diversity

WRITTEN BY JOSEPH BURGESS I PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERT “JAIME” RAMIREZ

this page: From desert landscapes to pristine mountain vistas, the light in New Mexico is always stunning. Photographer Robert “Jaime” Ramirez was up early, driving between Deming and Las Cruces, when the sun burst over the mountains and lit up his road. Travel the byways throughout the state to experience the unique cuisine, shopping and friendly people

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Incomparable arts evolving from a broad spectrum of cultures, space-age technology establishing mindsets for the future and incredible scenic beauty are just a hint of what awaits in America’s Land of Enchantment. The dwellings and artwork of prehistoric peoples combined with brilliant sunlight and stunning blue skies contribute to the aura that continues to beckon talented and innovative newcomers and visitors to a region named Nuevo México by Spanish explorers.

From vast pristine wilderness regions to the crystalline dunes of White Sands, forever vistas keep visitors reaching for their cameras and easels. Heartbeats hasten to the rhythm of Pueblo drums, while the Very Large Array of radio telescopes listens quietly for signs of life in distant galaxies. A curious lizard scrambles across an ancient ruin and a trophy elk cautiously crosses a high mountain trout stream. Locals never tire of driving the web of New Mexico’s scenic byways and spending days shopping the world’s best markets for art, jewelry and Native American crafts.

Museums and monuments throughout the state highlight the tools of mammoth hunters, the intriguing artwork of prehistoric potters and the development of pueblo and nomadic tribes that were first confronted by Europeans in the early 1500s.

The continued influence of Native American, Spanish, Mexican, and pioneer American cultures fuels vibrant fiestas, markets and solemn processions held throughout the year. Experience the state’s challenging ski slopes and white water rapids and visit its forts, missions and wildlife sanctuaries. Accept this invitation to explore the most diverse state in the nation. ¡Bien venidos a Nuevo México!

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Albuquerque WRITTEN BY JOSEPH BURGESS I PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERT “JAIME” RAMIREZ Albuquerque is New Mexico’s largest city, evolving from a small Spanish settlement into a modern bastion of technology and clean industry. It is a shopping and dining paradise and supports a vibrant nightlife and the state’s largest casinos.

Central Avenue – Historic Route 66 – runs the full width of Albuquerque and is lined with shopping, dining and entertainment hot spots. Both the downtown and Nob Hill districts boast excellent ethnic restaurants, live music, dancing and theater. Also on Central Avenue, Albuquerque’s “Old Town,” founded in 1706, features dining, galleries and native crafts. Albuquerque’s major museums are located in the Old Town historic district.

The latest addition to Albuquerque’s upscale shopping, dining and entertainment venues is ABQ Uptown. The Center includes shops not previously located in New Mexico and is easily accessed from Interstate 40 near the state fair grounds.

Within its city limits, Albuquerque has more parkland and public open space per person than any other community in the United States. The world’s longest aerial tramway ascends 10,000-foot San-

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dia Peak, providing hiking, skiing and dining opportunities as well as incredible vistas of the city and beyond. It is home to the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, the largest production of its kind for hot air balloons.

The170-acre Albuquerque Biological Park, containing an aquarium, botanical gardens and zoo, is accessed from Central Avenue and located just blocks away from Old Town. On the northwest edge of town, Petroglyph National Monument preserves ancient native symbols and artwork etched onto volcanic rocks.

The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center and the National Hispanic Cultural Center of New Mexico have developed into centers for the expression and preservation of the state’s earlier inhabitants.

The Gathering of Nations is now the country’s largest powwow, featuring over 3000 Native American dancers and the crowning of Miss Indian World.

this page: The Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta is the most photographed event in the world.

ALBUQUERQUE

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Exclusively

© Light Language Studio

NEW MEXICO

Ervin Tsosie Known worldwide for his intricate inlay work Ervin has won more awards than most artists twice his age. Starting at age 17 Tsosie is completely self taught.

Ervin is involved with the Native American Church and many of his designs have historical and cultured influences. Most pieces feature a night sky and deities. They have a very spiritual and uplifting vitality.

Ellis Tanner Trading Co. 1980 Hwy. 602 Gallup, NM 87305 505-863-4434 www.etanner.com

Sand Painting Rug “Mother Earth/Father Sky” A beautiful section of the trading post featuring one of the largest Collections of Navajo Rugs and Blankets in the Southwest.

Richardson’s Trading Co. & Cash Pawn 505-722-4762 222 W. Hwy. 66, Gallup, NM 87301 e-mail: rtc@cnetco.com

Fluorite Mountain Lion

by Stewart Quandelacy, Keshi—The Zuni Connection was founded in 1981 by Zuni teachers and artists as a co-op to represent and promote their handmade jewelry, fetishes, and pottery. Because it is a direct outlet supported by the Zuni people, every piece in the shop is authentic and fairly priced.

Located In downtown Santa Fe for 34 years, Keshi is the place you can trust to find quality work from Zuni Pueblo.

Keshi—The Zuni Connection 227 Don Gaspar Ave. Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-989-8728 www.keshi.com

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Four Strand Square Chrysacholla Necklace Tufa cast, made by Aaron Anderson, inlay by Lester James, Navajo Artists.

© Light Language Studio

Beeman Jewelry Design 211 W. Coal Ave. Gallup, New Mexico 505-726-9100 beemanjewelrydesign.com

Turquoise Feathers Mask

by Robert Rivera Embellished with shell earrings, feathers and rawhide 23" W x 23" H

The Torres Gallery 102 East Water Street Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 986-8914 www.torresgallery.com info@torresgallery.com

Multi Stone Necklace with Traditional Crossed Path Pendant Rocki Gorman’s signature design is her cheerful multi stone combination shown above with her traditional crossed path pendant. Creating jewelry since she was 7 years young her journey continues today in creating and designing contemporary sterling silver and gem stone jewelry."

Rocki Gorman Gallery La Fonda on the Plaza 119 Old Santa Fe Trail • Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-983-7833 • www.rockigorman.com

EXCLUSIVELY NEW MEXICO

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Exclusively NEW MEXICO

One of a kind apparel and accessories in Santa Fe. Lulu infinity wrap by Ceil Swanson Evans Texture wrap by J. Boles Pena. Knit mitts by Renata Z Kitchen sink necklace by Richard Lindsay Knit top by DC Knits. Perfect Pouch by bb goochi Knit mitts by Renata Z

Handwoven Originals 211 Old Santa Fe NM 87501 Inn at Lortteo 505 982.4118 • www.handwovenoriginals.com

Silver Punch Bowl Set Crafted by legendary Zuni silversmith Frank Vacit.

The Inlayed Knife Wing design includes turquoise, coral, black jet and shell. Made for the Paul Merrill Family in the late 50's or early 60's. The set was completed when Chester Mahooty, another famous Zuni artist made the Ladle.

Joe Milo’s Whitewater Trading P.O. Box 104 Van der Wagen, New Mexico 87326 1-888-Joe-Milo www.joemilo.com

Contemporary Southwest Jewelry and Fine Diamonds handcrafted in Santa Fe, New Mexico.

Sweetheart Ring with Sleeping Beauty & Spiderweb turquoise, River of Love Ring featuring marquise diamond with Sleeping Beauty & Spiderweb turquoise, Halo Ring featuring round brilliant diamond with Sleeping Beauty turquoise. Designed by David Griego.

Santa Fe Goldworks 60 East San Francisco Street Suite #218 • Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.983.4562 • SantaFeGoldworks.com

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Handmade Throws Santa Fe's premier home decor store for 15 years. Missoni, Home Treasures, Brahms Mount, Bella Notte, Ann Gish, Libeco.

Local artist Gretel Underwood throws and pillows.

Custom rugs and bedspreads by Sergio Martinez.

Down comforters, pillows, accessories, and gift items.

Who needs ordinary?

We do extraordinary.

500 Montezuma, Suite 121 • Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-982-3298 • www.pandorasantafe.com

SantaFe

The oldest capital city in the United States WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE BURGESS

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Santa Fe is the #1 best shopping destination in the country, according to USA Today. It has been ranked the #1 Cultural getaway and #1 Spa and Relaxation destination by Travel + Leisure. It is the #2 top city in the U.S. to visit, according to Condé Nast Traveler and the American Lung Association claims that it has the cleanest air in America. The arts and the city’s history no doubt played major rolls, oh, and the fact that Santa Fe cuisine and wine are always ranked in top ten lists and the American Podiatric Association ranks it the top walking city.

Santa Fe, the oldest capital city in the United States and inhabited 13 years before the pilgrims settled Plymouth Colony, became one of America’s premier centers for both visual and performing arts. More than 250 galleries line a mile-long stretch along Canyon Road and every plaza area street. Shops and galleries fill the Guadalupe/Railyard district.

Santa Fe’s performing arts encompass more than a dozen venues including historic theaters and magnificent churches. The renowned Santa Fe Opera occupies its own unique structure and continues to bring stars and audiences from around the globe for summer performances. The city hosts various annual music festivals, including chamber, jazz and traditional.

Santa Fe has more than ten museums. The adobe Palace of the Governors is the state's history museum and the oldest continuously occupied public building in the United States. The Santa Fe Fiesta is the nation’s oldest community celebration.

The “City Different” can be accessed by nonstop flights from Dallas, Denver and Los Angeles. The New Mexico Rail Runner Express carries passengers between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, with free shuttle service from Albuquerque Sunport.

opposite: A SUMMER RITUAL: As dusk nears, the cognoscenti gather in the “Bell Tower bar” atop the venerable La Fonda on the Plaza, to sip margaritas and watch the sunset over Santa Fe’s rooftops.

SANTA FE 15

ATTRACTIONS Canyon Road. East of Paseo de Peralta. Originally a Native American trail into the mountains; now lined with unique shops, art galleries, artists' studios, restaurants and local hangouts. 800-777-2489 or 505-955-6200.

EI Rancho de las Golondrinas. South of Santa Fe off I-25. Historical Spanish colonial village, now a living history museum, was a stopping point on EI Camino Real.

Call for annual event schedule and tours, 505-471-2261.

Hyde Memorial State Park. Eight miles northeast of Santa Fe. Camping, hiking and picnicking. 505-983-7175. www.nmparks.com Loretto Chapel. 207 Old Santa Fe Trail. Houses the miraculous staircase built by a mysterious carpenter believed to have been St. Joseph by the Loretto nuns.

505-982-0092. www.lorettochapel.com Museum Hill. On Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail.

Home of the Laboratory of Anthropology, Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, Museum of International Folk Art, Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, and the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian. www.museumhill.org Museum of Fine Arts. 107 W. Palace Ave. Southwest, historical and contemporary art. 505-476-5072. www.mfasantafe.org Palace of the Governors. 105 W. Palace Ave. 17th century building on the Santa Fe Plaza housing historical exhibits. The oldest continuously used public building in the US. 505-476-5100. www.palaceofthegovernors.org San Miguel Mission Church. 401 Old Santa Fe Trail.

Dates back to first Spanish colonization. Rebuilt following Pueblo Revolt of 1680. 505-983-3974 or 988-9504.

Santuario de Guadalupe. 100 S. Guadalupe. Mission museum exhibiting Spanish colonial art. 18th century shrine to Our Lady of Guadalupe. 505-988-2027.

EVENTS May

Jun Jul

Aug Sep

Oct Dec

Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival.

505-476-1250 Civil War Weekend. El Rancho de las Golondrinas 505-471-2261 www.golondrinas.org Santa Fe Film Festival 505-988-7414 www.santafefilmfestival Rodeo de Santa Fe. 505-471-4300 www.rodeosantafe.org Santa Fe Opera Season opens thru Aug 17.

800-280-4654 www.santafeopera.org Wine Festival at El Rancho de las Golondrinas 505-471-2261 Santa Fe Int’l. Folk Art Market.

505-992-7600 www.folkartmarket.org Traditional Spanish Market on the Plaza.

505-982-2226 www.santafenm.info/spanish.htm Indian Market on the Plaza. 505-983-5220. www.swaia.org Reniassance Rair at El Rancho de las Golondrinas 505-471-2261 Burning of Zozobra and Santa Fe Fiesta.

505-988-7575 www.burnzozobra.com Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta. 505-438-8060 www.santawineandchile.org Harvest Festival at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. 505-471-2261 Canyon Road Farolito Walk Christmas Eve. Winter Spanish Market 505-982-2226 Christmas at the Palace. 505-476-5100 Farolitos on the Plaza. 800-777-2489

LOCATION Santa Fe is located at the junction I-25 and US84/285, the historic termination of El Camino Real and the Santa Fe Trail.

MORE INFORMATION Santa Fe Chamber of Commerce (505) 988-3279 www.santafechamber.com Santa Fe Convention andVisitors Bureau (505) 955-6200 www.santafe.org

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Fine Dining Chef Owned Restaurants WRITTEN BY KAT KATE A E MCGRAW AT A AW

To dine, and dine well, is a gift to our common humanity. These havens are seldom found in corporate chains.

They are usually chef-owned, the work of a single, food-obsessed artist, like Steven Lemon at Santa Fe’s upscale Pranzo Italian Grill or Joseph Wrede at Joseph’s. Or the showbiz service and great flavors at Dinner for Two. Or the creative ideas of talented Rob Connoley at Curious Kumquat in Silver City.

To settle into a tranquil, well-tabled dining room, cosseted by great service and even better food, is to echo the 18th-century essayist and wit, the Rev. Sydney Smith, who had a replete eater sigh at the end of a verse recipe for a wonderful salad: “Fate cannot harm me, for I have dined today.” Who can’t relate?

Ah, Pranzo! That calm, quiet dining room, with music in the carefree bar, and steaming plates of Italian food wending their way to your table! Can there be a better dining experience?

Pranzo Italian Grill has a casual, welcoming vibe. “We’re a white-tablecloth restaurant but not stuffy,” says proprietor-executive chef Steven Lemon. Pranzo has been the place to go for regional Italian with a Mediterranean influence for 27 years. Lemon, who is classically trained in both French and Italian cuisine, helped launch the restaurant in 1988 and stayed for six years before moving on to found O Eating House at Pojoaque. He took the helm at Pranzo in 2014.

His primary objective, he says, is “keep the best traditions of Pranzo going.”

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photo by Ben Sutherland@flickr.com

SANTA FE Pranzo Italian Grill

photo Š Joe Burgess

Pranzo, established in 1988, features Chef Steven Lemon’s original Italian/Mediterranean cuisine, the Geist Cabaret on weekend nights and 8 Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence.

For 26 years, Pranzo continues to be a Santa Fe locals' favorite We are located in the heart of the Historic Railyard District, just minutes from the Railrunner Terminus and six blocks from the plaza.

We feature happy hour everyday from 4-6pm.

1/2 price bottles of wine on Sunday's.

Barrel Aged Cocktails on Monday night.

Early Bird special from 4-5:45 everyday.

540 Montezuma Ave., Santa Fe, NM 87501 Call For Reservations 505-984-2645 www.pranzosantafe.com

Pranzo relies on local, fresh sources for most of its ingredients, Lemon says. He hits the Farmers’ Market weekly and visits local farms twice weekly. The menu is a roster of fresh pasta, fresh seafood, housemade pizzas, New Mexico lamb and other goodies. Start with an appetizer favorite, calamari griglia: grilled squid with extra virgin olive oil, preserved lemon, garlic and grilled lemon. Then on to a pizza Margherita or agnello da New Mexico, braised lamb shank. The salads here are also to die for. The lengthy wine list has received the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator for the past eight years. Three sommeliers are on staff, so someone is always available to suggest a wonderful libation.

With a daily happy hour, live music almost every evening, and even an early-bird, three-course meal, Pranzo is the epitome of an exciting, reliable dining destination in Santa Fe. Ah, Pranzo! So, so fine!

The Compound

Modernist Foraged Cuisine

Originally the centerpiece of the McComb Compound, the building was among a group of houses on Canyon Road serving as a secluded getaway in the early 1900s for movie stars, industrialists and socialists. In 1966, Will and Barbara Houghton retained designer Alexander Girard, generous donor to Santa Fe’s International Folk Art Museum, to give the main house a distinctive look that became the Compound Restaurant managed and later owned by Victor Seguere. Acclaimed fashion designer Tom Ford was a bus boy there while attending Santa Fe High.

After 35 years of operation, Chef Mark Kiffin purchased and revitalized the restaurant.

Kiffin was awarded the James Beard Best Chef of the Southwest Award and The Compound continues its legacy of outstanding service, wine and fine Santa Fe dining.

SILVER CITY The Curious Kumquat

Open Tuesday - Saturday 11am - 4:30pm & 5:30pm - 8:30pm 575.534.0337 • 111 E. College Ave. • Silver City, NM

20 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

In Silver City, in New Mexico’s southwest corner, there’s a restaurant garnering unprecedented attention. The Curious Kumquat is a James Beard semi-finalist that has been featured in The New York Times, Sunset magazine and numerous regional publications.

A restaurant, beer and wine garden on College Avenue, the ‘Quat has become a local favorite and a destination for travelers.

Chef-owner Rob Connoley offers casual lunches that feature soups, salads and sandwiches, and dinners that highlight his nationally recognized “modernist foraged” tasting dinners. The Kumquat uses meats raised by local 4H youth and plants foraged by Chef Connoley himself. Saveur magazine’s 2013 award for “most far-flung modernist cuisine” went to The Curious Kumquat. Chef Rob’s customers are very glad he still finds time to make gemlike chocolates, enjoying unique fillings like honey saffron, brandy almond, spearmint, salted caramel. Oh, that rosemary salted caramel! To die for.

SANTA FE Joseph’s, A Culinary Pub When you’re in Santa Fe, a must-do dining pleasure is the Agua Fria Street establishment called Joseph’s, A Culinary Pub. Joseph Wrede, the award winning chef-owner, has created a true pub environment – six beers on tap, 120 wines on the list – with a real focus on food. The bar menu starts with Joseph’s unusual duck fat fries and continues through a poached egg on toast with apple sage jam.

The dinner menu includes a classically wonderful steak au poivre that Joseph has served at his various restaurants in northern New Mexico for 20 years: natural Colorado grass-fed beef tenderloin with Madeira wine, Oregon trumpet, hedgehog and oyster mushroom sauce and smashed potatoes. OMG. Or treat yourself to the grilled local lamb chops with a caramelized fennel and goat's milk crust, served with a burnt orange and preserved lemon compound butter and Brussels sprouts. You truly won’t regret your visit.

Osteria d’Assisi Ostería d’Assisi, Ristorante Italiano, was opened in Santa Fe by owner/chef Lino Pertusini in 1995 with the goal of creating a thoroughly Italian experience for northern New Mexico. Growing up with a professional chef father in the Lake Como area of northern 22 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Italy and extensive travel refined and complimented Lino’s palate for authentic and memorable cuisine. A warm greeting, gracious service and the use of fresh, seasonal ingredients in every homemade item by Executive Chef Cristian Pontiggia keep the clientele engaged and returning. The Lamb Osso Buco, a Milanese specialty consisting of organic braised lamb shank with vegetables and gremolata polenta, will make you kiss the tips of your fingers.

Osteria d’ Assisi is a winner of the distinguished Ciao Italia award and the Luigi Veronelli gastronomy award of Northern American fine Italian dining. Lino has been awarded the title of Cavaliere del Lavoro by the Italian government.

To create pizza for those enjoying the true essence of life, owner/chef Lino Pertusini pulled all the stops when he established Pizzeria da Lino near the historic plaza in downtown Santa Fe. He drew on his vast culinary experience in northern Italy to implement the requirements for the best possible products. He uses only the freshest ingredients and time-honored recipes paired with the most appropriate wines. Even the dough ages for maximum flavor. He created a charming old-world atmosphere that is both European

and distinctly Santa Fe and he imported the Ferrari of wood-burning pizza ovens. Using a blend of oak for stable heat and pecan wood for flavor, the difference is easily discernable.

A full compliment of pastas, soups and salads is available.

Dinner For Two Dinner for Two might as just as well be called “Dinner and a Show for Two.” The food is superb. It’s a succulent menu – Caesar’s salad, Chateaubriand, bananas Foster. These are all show foods! Tableside presentation, to the max.

Andy Barnes, chef and co-owner of this 14-yearold family operation, chuckles slyly. “You got it. It’s an evening with entertainment and fine dining. In Santa Fe, it’s a way to make a night of it.”

And it’s fun. Andy is from Santa Fe; he graduated from Santa Fe High School and took a culinary degree at Santa Fe Community College. Then he made the quantum leap to the Culinary Institute of America. His wife Crystal is on the door. His mom Pamela loves running the front of the house. His dad Gregory bakes the bread and raises the chickens that provide the eggs. A local favorite is the grilled filet mignon of New Mexico grass-fed beef, crusted with cocoa, coffee and garlic and served with a pomegranate and balsamic vinegar reduction. With a Caesar’s on the side?

O.M.G. Curtain up!

OSTERIA D’ASSISI Ristorante Italiano RESTAURANT • BAR

PIANO LOUNGE featuring Tucker Binkley

505.986.5858

58 S. FEDERAL PLACE • SANTA FE, NM 87501

osteriadassisi.com

rench F dining and tapas WRITTEN BY KATE McGRAW

photo by Hamza Daoui@flickr.com

Allegedly, Catherine de Medici’s Florentine cooks were the precursor to what has become French cuisine, but it was undoubtedly the French cooks – Escoffier, Careme, the Diats, and Fernand Point – who took the ball and ran with it. For more than 200 years, since the end of the Revolution, French cuisine has been the gold standard for fine cooking. For a chef, to be “classically trained” means to be trained in the French manner, with its precision and attention to labor-intensive detail.

The French influence is spreading into New Mexico with banners flying. Well-known, award-winning chefs have opened their own restaurants and bistros in Santa Fe, the center of foodie interest in New Mexico, and their abilities are shining in all parts of the state. They include chefs who insist on food being prepared by the classic techniques— slow braising being a common technique—and classic recipes. There also is a cadre of chefs who’ve been in New Mexico long enough to believe a little green chile helps any dish, and to have created a kind of fusion of local foods prepared by French methods. (Vide Louis Moskow’s 315 Restaurant.)

Nobody profits by the wave of Frenchness in New Mexico more than the customers, who delight in being able to find just what they want, from authentically prepared sweetbreads at Bouche Bistro to delectable pastries at Swiss Bistro & Bakery to classic braised short ribs with green chile mashed potatoes at L’Olivier. Vive la France!

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SANTA T FE TA Bistro 315 You’re Y Yo u’re in Santa Fe in early l evening, the hour of the ly light.

Youu head fo world-renowned Santa Fe vesper ligh g t. Yo gh Y fforr Wine the 315 Restaurant & Wi W ne Bar,r,r in a restored adobe Trail. tranquil house at 315 Old Santa Fe Tr T ail. On the tranqu q il patio, qu o o, wine yyouu order some French nibbles and a gl yo gglass ass off wi w ine and watch as the sunset colors become numinous in the Mexico sky.

You’re savoring wide New Mex e ico sky ex ky.y. Yo ky Y u’re just sav a oring – the fo av ffood, od, the wine, the light, ligh g t, the moment. Life gh f is perfect. fe perfe f ct. fe 315 Own Owner-Chef Moskow w er-Chef Louis Mosko wn k w has an av ko aavuncular uncular aaffection aff ffection for ffe f r his patrons. fo pat a rons. “Ideally at “Ideal a ly al l I’m the t e best part off their th their th day, day ay,y”,” he says. ay say ays ay ys. A “for “fo f r sure” favorite fo fav fa avo vorite is the squash squ q ash blossom qu beignet, or fritter, f itter,r,r made with locally fr l grown blossoms ly and local goat a cheese. Sip a cool,l,l calming Sancerre from at f om fr the Loire region, n Louis prescribes from n, f om the vast wine fr list. Or maybe basil-wrapped may ayb ay ybe you’ll go for f r the basil-wrap fo a ped shrimp ap flaky, on a bed of apricot chutney,y,y wrapped in flaky ky,y, crispy ky phyllo You’ll phy hyl hy yllo and served with a Madras curry sauce. Yo Y u’ll want Trimbach with w wa nt a Tr T imb m ach pinot blanc wi mb w th that lusciousness.

So Santa Fe. So French. So fine!

Trained T Tr ained at the Culinary Institute off America, America, and in Am New Orleans and Europe, Louis Moskow started as executive executiv i e chef at 315 more than 20 years ago and beiv came its owner four f ur years later.r.r Creating this perfe fo f cfe perfection has been a lab a or of love. The fo ab ffood od is made with labor local ingredients as much as possible, by classical techniques. says, French techniqu q es. In summer and early qu l fa ly ffall, ll, he say a s, ay Market he writes the menu at the Farmer’s Marke k t “because ke what’s that is wh w at’s av aavailable. ailab a le.” A fe ab ffew w customer fa ffavorites, avorites, inav cluding seared duck breast with potato galette, ribbon sauce; vvegetables ve getab a les and dried cherry sau ab a ce; French onion soup, au p p, and House-made Charcuterie are av aavailable ailable yearround. Fabulous homemade desserts, including cake, lemon crepes, flourless chocolate cake k , creme brulee. ke technique It’s all French in techniqu q e and precision; it’s all Santa qu Fe in ingredients and ambience. It’s 315.

L’Oliver Restaurant WalkWalk W Wa lkW kWa kW Walk into L’Olivier LOliv L’ i ier (The Olive iv Oliv i e Tree) iv T ee) and walk Tr into France. The owners are French; the décor is French. This pretty little place is as chic, crisp and welcoming as its hostess, Nathalie Bonnard Grenet, the wife f of Chef Xavier fe Xav a ier Grenet. av Chef Xavier Xav a ier trained first at L’Ecole av L Ecole Francaise de la L’ Gastronomie Ferrandi in Paris, and then at l’Ecole Hoteliere de Lausanne in Switzerland. He has more than 20 years of experience in France and the U.S., before bringing his French techniques to Santa Fe. L’Olivier was among the 10 Best Restaurants for 2014 in a local newspaper’s guide. The food here is French, but with local ingredients and local flair. A beloved entrée among L’Olivier’s coterie of followers – one of the 2014 Ten Best Dishes according to a local critic is the grass-fed beef short ribs, braised, with glazed shallots, haricot verts and mashed potatoes with FRENCH DINING 25

– well, um – Monterey jack cheese and green chiles?

Chef Xavier is unapologetic about the seeming heresy. “I am a New Mexican now,” he says firmly. “We use New Mexico cheese and chile from Chimayo.” The Grenets believe in loyalty to their terroir, and their country is New Mexico. It’s New Mexico’s benefit that the loyalty is expressed with impeccable French technique and a basic love of food..

Bouche Bistro “People come in here and say, ‘It’s like walking into a bistro in Paris!’ and that’s right,” says Bouche Bistro chef/owner Charles Dale. “And it’s not ersatz—the floors are the original ones from 1939 and the chairs are 40 years old, just as they would be in Paris.”

Authenticity is the mantra for Dale, who decided when he opened his own place that simple excellence would be his theme. Born in France and brought up in the French Lycée system, Dale purposefully trained with masters of classic French cuisine like Daniel Boulud, Alain Sailhac and Jean-Paul Lacombe, and his menu reflects what he learned. “I went to recognized masters and absorbed what they had learned: a respect for great cuisine,” he says. “At this point in my career, 33 years in, I want to cook the authentic bistro/home cooking of my native land. It’s the food these chefs and I love to make and what we love to eat.”

In two years, he’s built a following for the steak au poivre, the freshest steamed mussels, calf ’s liver, escargots redolent with garlic, crispy sweetbreads. All are available, along with nightly specials based on the vegetables, herbs and salad greens Dale has coaxed from his own garden. “We also bake our own boule-style bread every day, using a 23-year-old starter. We make our own profiteroles and our own terrine of foie gras,” he notes.

“Cooking simply and excellently is the hardest thing to do, because there is nothing to hide behind,” the chef says. In warmer months, you can dine en terrasse, because Bouche boasts what is possibly the best outdoor dining venue in Santa Fe: a covered patio and luscious garden shielded from the street.

The Swiss Bistro & Bakery The Swiss Bistro and Bakery's owner Julio Marquez has employed the best European-trained chefs to turn a longtime Santa Fe patisserie into a European bistro with authentic food. "If you love our pastries, you’ll love our food,” is Julio’s motto and scores of delighted diners are saying it’s true.

“The Swiss” is rightfully beloved for its classic croissants, Danishes, tarts, éclairs and cakes. But patrons now breakfast on the “Santa Fe stuffed croissant” – stuffed, that is, with scrambled eggs, Black Forest ham, Swiss cheese and Hatch green chile, and a choice of coffee or cappuccino. Lunch and dinner feature crepes from around the world, or such delicacies as chicken in puff pastry with white wine sauce. Bien sur!

26 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

a sian cuisine

WRITTEN BY KATE McGRAW I PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOE BURGESS

Rudyard Kipling’s aphorism to the contrary, East has already met West quite happily, thank you, in New Mexico. We’re in love with Asian food, and very well aware that it’s not some monolithic category. We know that Asia is big and its various cuisines cover a large chunk of the earth. And we enjoy tasting every area’s offerings.

Our “Asian” restaurants run the gamut from India House’s lavish lunch buffets (chicken tandoori, naan, and vegetable pakoras) to Japanese tempura, sushi, sashimi and donburi bowls at Masa Sushi and the venerable Shohko Café to Southwest fusion delights at Banzai Asian tacos (yes!) to classic Chinese comfort food from Mu Du Noodles.

So sayonara to the stereotypes. Asian-heritage diners and chefs, it turns out, like the same things as the rest of us: fresh, locally grown and often organic vegetables; the freshest, firmest fish, beautifully prepared; vibrantly spiced sauces; the crunch of fried foods, and the succulent pleasures of freshly made noodles. When you stop into one of New Mexico’s Asian restaurants, you’re getting the best of that big Eastern continent’s heritage, right here in the Wild West.

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SANTA FE Shohko Cafe When Shohko and Hiro Fukuda opened Shohko Café, Santa Fe’s first Japanese restaurant in 1975, their intent was to show New Mexicans what the fine art of Japanese fare, with its skilled techniques and pure ingredients, was all about. Forty years later, the Fukuda family is carrying on that tradition. The sushi bar, opened in 1980, was New Mexico’s first.

Walk into the old adobe and breathe in a classic/modern Japanese interior of long sushi bar in the front room, and convivial and serene dining rooms. Taste the food and you’ll understand why Shohko has made a consistent appearance on Ten Best lists and Best of Santa Fe lists for years. The little café is deep-seated in the hearts of New Mexicans. It was the Japan-born Shohko Fukuda who invented green chile tempura in the 1970s!

There are 30 nigiri sushi from tuna to monk fish liver; eight vegetarian rolls; seven varieties of sashimi; 20 maki sushi offerings, from Alaskan salmon to the “Las Vegas” (crab tempura with salmon and avocado); 10 hand rolls and four entrée plates featuring sushi, tempura or sashimi. Cognoscenti go for the swell bento sets, one of Santa Fe’s best-loved dining options.

There is an extensive list of artisan sakes. Gourmet authentic ramen and various broths are featured on both lunch and dinner menus.

Shohko Café, (505) 982-9708, 321 Johnson St, Santa Fe. Mon-Fri 11:30-2pm; Mon-Thurs 5:30-9pm; Fri.-Sat, 5:30-9:30pm. Please respect the café’s FRAGRANCE FREE Policy.

ASIAN CUISINE 29

Masa Sushi Samuen Buttaracha (his friends call him Sammie) has a strict personal code for himself for operating his restaurant, Masa Sushi. His rules are: only use “special best fresh” fish; keep the prices reasonable; give New Mexico names to his inventive rolls and make every plate as beautiful as possible. “I do that because it makes people happy,” he explains sweetly.

Masa Sushi, in a storefront in Santa Fe’s Solana Center, is not a secret. Locals have discovered it, and word has spread among the TV and film crews who come from California. A favorite treat is his “Espanola” roll—green chile tempura and spicy tuna, topped with salmon, avocado and special sauce. Sammie’s from Thailand. When he was starting culinary school, he says, he could choose to learn Thai, Chinese or Japanese cuisine. “With Chinese and Thai, standing over hot wok all day,” he says. “Japanese is cool. I like that better.” His loyal patrons do, too.

Thai Vegan Here’s your challenge: combine superb vegan

927 W Alameda St Santa Fe, NM 87501 • 505-982-3334

food with one of the kindest men you’ll ever meet.

That’s what you get when you venture into one of the three Thai Vegan restaurants two in Albuquerque, one in Santa Fe – owned by Phairat “Pat” Phomnoi.

He’s an émigré Buddhist monk from Thailand who’s gone secular on a mission to end our physical sufferings by teaching us to eat right. And eating right is no hardship at Thai Vegan. Pat’s argued with customers who insist that his “crispy chicken” is not soy at all – it’s real poultry. “But lady,” he says gently, “this is a vegan restaurant.” The green curry noodles are to die for. The cashew plate is wonderful. Pat created his recipes while cooking vegan meals for a monastery of 300 monks for more than 20 years. How lucky we are that his heart told him to bring his mission to us!

The Bonsai Asian Tacos In a 25-foot travel trailer painted bright red, parked beside Cerrillos Road near Vegas Verde Drive, Juan Carlos and Carmen Rubalcaba serve a unique fusion of Asian and Southwestern cuisines – Bonzai Asian Tacos. Chef Juan Carlos came from Mexico City in 1996; he learned his profession at fine restaurants in Santa Fe. This is street food at its best and most imaginative.

The best bet is the tacos – pulled pork, grilled silky tofu, salmon, Korean bulgogi beef or crumbly tempeh 30 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

on a big corn tortilla with a Napa cabbage slaw and BAT’s signature vibrant red chile/sriracha/oregano taco sauce. Get it while it’s hot. Get it while it’s there.

Juan Carlos and Carmen are hoping to parlay the trailer into a bricks-and-mortar restaurant. Then we can all say we knew them when.

India House The phrase “bustling serenity” is an oxymoron, but Santa Fe. Subdued lighting and exotic décor enhance

INDIA HOUSE

the feeling of well-bring that infuses its patrons. The

MAJESTIC INDIAN FOOD

it describes the pleasure of India House restaurant in

real draw, of course, is the food.

The creation of award-winning chef and owner Kewal S. Dhindsa and his son, Pawan S. Dhindsa, India House is one of the best bargains in northern New Mexico. The Dhindsas serve a lavish, 15-item Punjabi (northern India) buffet at lunch daily and provide dinner from a menu from 5-10 p.m. daily. India House has become a must-have destination for tables of families, ladies eating out, office workers, state employees and politicians.

“We are the most reasonable buffet in town. I don’t think anybody has more variety or better quality than we do,” Pawan says. “We are at least 50 percent farm-totable, because we believe in supporting local farmers.”

Succulent tandoori chicken stars on the buffet, but it’s not alone. “Our chicken tikka masala is a favorite,” Pawan says. “For vegetarians, two favorites are the sag paneer and the navratan korma.” It was “destiny” that brought Kewal to Santa Fe in 1992, his son says. “We believe in destiny,” Pawan shrugs. “We’re in New Mexico for good.”

Mu Du Noodles

2 5 0 1 C E R R I L L O S R OA D , S A N TA F E • N E W M E X I C O 8 7 5 0 5

( 5 0 5 ) 4 7 1 - 2 6 5 1 • W W W. I N D I A H O U S E N M . C O M

The superb harmony of Asian flavors found in Mu Du Noodles’ critically acclaimed dishes explains why the modest restaurant on Cerrillos Road has become an icon of Asian food in Santa Fe. Mu Du Noodles celebrates its 20th year this summer, a long tenure in Santa Fe restaurant lore. Founder and executive chef Mu Jing Lau says Mu Du is successful because it’s “filled a niche” of Asian cravings over the score of years.

“I think patrons appreciate the effort we make to be sustainable and local as much as possible.” Plus, she adds, “The tastes of the American people have really changed in 20 years. They’re more open to try new things.” And believe us: adventurousness is its own reward at Mu Du. ASIAN CUISINE 31

BarBQue at it’s BEST! WRITTEN BY B KA K KATE ATE McGRAW AT A AW I PHOTOGRAPHY BY B JOE BURGESS

SANTA FE Cowgirl Santa Fe If your craving is for Texas-style barbecue done with New Mexico flair, then you go to Cowgirl BBQ on Guadalupe Street. For 22 years, Santa Feans and visitors have headed for this funky and agreeable little joint for their brisket, or ribs, or barbecued chicken fix. Possessor of a laundry list of national publication mentions—The New York Times (”great margaritas“), The Wall Street Journal (”best Nachos“), Cowboys and Indians Magazine (”One of the Best BBQ joints in the West“)—it receives constant Best Ofs and Top Tens locally as well.

For 14 years, Patrick Lambert has been chef and a co-owner. “The brilliance of this place is that we serve a quality plate at an affordable price,” Patrick says. As far as the ‘cue goes, it’s smoked over mesquite wood at 200

32 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

degrees for 12-14 hours (that’s the brisket) or maybe a little shorter time (the baby back ribs and the chicken). Two departures from the Texas style are evident with the first bite. Patrick has devised a unique rub that he says is “a little more complicated”: brown sugar, spices and dried and ground Chimayo red chile. And then there’s a sauce, served on the meat. Not Texas style at all. But delectable. The same earthy Chimayo red meets molasses, onions, brown sugar and mustard powder in a tomato-based sauce that’s also unique to the Cowgirl. It’s served on the ribs and brisket nachos, also. Among those licking their fingers have been Rachel Ray and the folks at Guilty Pleasures, a Food Network show. “We’re very blessed to have received the national recognition that we have,” Patrick says.

BEST BARBECUE 33

Comfort FOOD WRITTEN BY KATE McGRAW

photo by H. Michael Karshis@flickr.com

We all know what comfort food is: it’s the food Mom fed us when we were home from school with a cold, or we’d suffered a humiliating defeat in the spelling bee, or some such other disaster had befallen us. Perhaps we remember that bowl of tomato soup with a toasted cheese sandwich to assuage the sniffles, or the meatloaf and mashed potatoes that made a bad day on the football field seem better. And there’s a certain set of dining establishments that seem to specialize in comfort food—a little more haute than Mom’s, maybe, but still. Its common characteristics are that it’s hot and tasty and filling. Comforting.

In New Mexico, of course, comfort often comes with chile. Many of us grew up with moms whose comfort was layered in enchiladas like those at Casa Chimayo or stuffed in a green chile cheeseburger like those at Del Charro Saloon & Restaurant. Now we’re a little more adult, we might add a tingly margarita to add to our, ahem, comfort, but the principle’s the same, Mom. This is the food to go for when the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune are poking at us, when we’re fed up with the boss and his cronies and we’re feeling like there really needs to be more justice in the world. When losing that account, or worrying over taxes seems to be getting on top of us. That’s when a combo plate of Africa-Caribbean food from Jambo’s or a meatloaf platter at Zia Diner can bring us the peace we’re dreaming of. When we eat up and feel full. When we seem to feel Mom hovering, saying, “You know, it’s gonna be all right!”

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SANTA T FE TA Zia Diner A Santa Fe’s Zia Diner,r,r comfo At comfort f rt comes not only fo attentive, ffrom fr om the superb r fo rb ffood od but also fr ffrom om the attentiv i e, cariv comfortable ing service. “We W want people to fe We ffeel el really l comfo ly f rtab fo a le ab says restaurant/full here,” say a s Beth Koch, owner of the restaurant/fu ay f ll fu anniversary bar/soda fo ffountain untain celebrating its 30th anniv i ersary in iv strive professional 2015. “We W striv We i e to be profe iv f ssional and fr fe ffriendly, iendly ly,y, but ly overbearing” not overb r earing” in service, she adds. rb Zia Diner is a fa ffarr cry from f om the small, steamy fr m joints my that the wo word might conjure. w rd diner migh g t conj gh n ure. It is an upscale-butnj down-home down w -home restaurant in a National Landmark wn r buildrk ing, a re-purposed old coal warehouse fr ffrom om the 1880s.

The fu ffullll bar is known fo fforr a daily 3-6 p.m. happy hour featuring f aturing great drinks and such traditional nibfe bles as coconut shrimp, pigs in a blanket, blanke k t, nachos and ke the Zia’s signature artichoke k hearts parmesan. Grab ke a a ab stool at the old-fa f shion soda fountain fa f untain for fo f r handmade fo old-fashion shakes, espresso lattes or ice cream sundaes (try the comfort brownie sundae – OMG). Then get your comfo f rt fo savory ffood fo od fix: a sav a ory hot turkey plate with cornbread av gravy vegetables, stuffing, mashed potatoes and grav avy av vy and vegetab a les, ab or the robust meatloaf plate with all-beef,f,f green chileand-pinon-studded meatloaf,f,f mashed potatoes and gravy vegetables. “comfort grav avy av vy and vegetab a les. In Santa Fe, of course, “comfo ab f rt fo ffood” fo od” often means chicken chicke k n enchiladas, chiles rellenos ke or carne adovado, all of them prepared according to original recipes. “Our priority is high-quality high g -qu gh q ality protein,” qu Beth says, say a s, including the sustainably ay sustainab a ly ab l harvested harve v sted cod that ve becomes the best fish and chips in town.

The Zia has a Classic Zia Cobb and a SouthernFried Chicken Salad that are to die for. f r.r Finish your fo meal with dessert baked in-house: the rhubarb pie, maybe, shortbread cookies. may ayb ay ybe, or the fr ffrosted osted shortb t read cooki tb k es. As fo ki ffolks lks in say, Santa Fe say ay,y, “See ya at the Zia!” ay

Del Charro Inn of the Governors Gove v rnors manager Sam Gerberding ve Gerb r erding derb lights ligh g ts in the knowledge gh k owl kn w edge that the Inn’s restaurant, Del wl comfort “We’re Charro, is the go-to place fo fforr comfo f rt fo fo ffood. od. “We W ’re We downtown kknown kn own w as the down wn w town wn w place that offers wn offffffe fers a good, honest meal at a good, honest price,” Sam says. say a s. That’s a ay comfort for the locals and tourists who hit the saloon and patio restaurant for lunch and dinner. “We’re proud that we are able to provide a place they can afford to come to eat,” he says.

By far the top favorites at 12-year-old Del Charro are the house margarita, made with 100 percent blue agave and the best tequilas, and the New Mexico COMFORT FOOD 35

Green Chile Cheese Burger with New Mexico grassfed beef, Hatch green chile, and New Mexico cheese.

People may choose to add Del Charro’s classic chocolate mousse cake or the traditional New Mexico dessert, natillas, cinnamon-flavored rice custard served in a house-made tortilla bowl.

Del Charro is also known for its light and lovely enclosed patio, enlivened by the Santa Fe sparrows who flit in and out, eyeing the crumbs patrons drop, almost accidentally, on the tile floor. “We’re thinking of putting the birds on salary as our cleaning crew,” Sam jokes.

Jambo Café Let’s get this straight right from the top: we go to Jambo Café for the FOOD. Yes, the servers are charming and efficient. Yes, the décor is eclectic and jubilant.

Yes, we love ushering visitors into an African-Caribbean café created in a Santa Fe strip mall. And yes, some of the money we spend here helps to support medical care for people in Owner-Chef Ahmed Obo’s native Kenya.

But the bedrock truth is that it’s the FOOD we come for and that keeps us coming back—the crispy, zesty plantain crab cakes; the succulent Caribbean goat stew, the spicy lamb sandwich on pita, the fire-breathing Lamu coconut pili pili shrimp…

Or maybe we’ll get the Kenyan-style beef kebabs, made with marinated New Mexico hanger steak with herb-garlic saffron potatoes, sautéed haricots verts, tomato and onion, served over organic field greens with a pomegranate sauce. Yum, you say? Absolutely!

Chef Obo has been cooking professionally nearly 20 years. He’s the real deal.

Jambo has won repeated “Best Of ”-type honors locally and regionally, and hit the big time when the Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” show discovered it in 2014. Even with all the fame, there are still people who walk in surprised. “It’s still new to them and that’s all right,” Chef Obo says with his engaging smile. He opened his restaurant in 2009. “I wanted to cook what was in my head and it has come true,” he says. “It was my vision. We started small and we’ve helped a lot of people.”

Chef Obo funnels some proceeds from his café, and the neighboring Jambo Imports store he’s opened, into the Jambo Kids Foundation, which runs a model health care clinic that opened in 2013 to serve the people of Lamu Island, his native home. “I always think of food as a way of giving to others,” he says. “The foundation is just another way.”

36 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Casa Chimayo In a little adobe building near the corner of Guadalupe and Water Streets, is a funky and agreeable little patio restaurant called Casa Chimayo, where you’ll find some of the most authentic northern New Mexico comidas in Santa Fe. Don Timoteo, the owner, likes to say, “This is a place where you come as guests, make friends and leave as family.” The lamb and beef is grass-fed and from northern New Mexico, and comes with beans-and-chicos, and red chile. “We make the best red and green chile just like grandma showed us. Our chile nogada is a stuffed poblano pepper made with lean steak, apples, piñon nuts, and a creamy walnut sauce,” says Don Timoteo. Don’t forget to try the specialty, chile-infused agave margaritas!

Joe’s Dining With a passion for a sustainable, local food supply, Joe’s Dining in Santa Fe offers grass-finished New Mexico lamb, bison and Sweetgrass Co-op ground beef. It utilizes New Mexicogrown organic flour and house-made mozzarella–many items are made from scratch. The unpretentious atmosphere is for those demanding uncompromising quality of ingredients.

Dine In or Take Out

Pizzaria da Lino

Open 7 Days A Week 11am to 11pm

103 E. Water Street Santa Fe, New Mexico

505.820.0363

AUTHENTIC WOOD OVEN PIZZA IN SANTA FE

To create pizza for those enjoying the true essence of life, owner/chef Lino Pertusini pulled all the stops when he established Pizzeria da Lino near the historic plaza in downtown Santa Fe. He drew on his vast culinary experience in northern Italy to implement the requirements for the best possible products.

He uses only the freshest ingredients and time-honored recipes paired with the most appropriate wines. Even the dough ages for maximum flavor. He created a charming old-world atmosphere that is both European and distinctly Santa Fe and he imported the Ferrari of wood-burning pizza ovens. Using a blend of oak for stable heat and pecan wood for flavor, the difference is easily discernable. A full compliment of pastas, soups and salads is available.

Elevation Bistro Pasta • Salads • House-made Gelato 204 NORTH GUADALUPE STREET

505.982.8474

•

•

38 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO 87501

pizzeriadalino.com

One block off the Santa Fe Plaza, near Don Gaspar and Water Streets in a casual setting with an open-air patio, sits Elevation Bistro, a stylish small restaurant where the downtown crowd is served “gourmet-style food at casual dining prices,” as general manager John

Herrera says. Owners Lane and Ben Sanders created this haven. Chef Andres Portugues Castro, from Mexico City, brings New Mexico flair to contemporary comfort food at Elevation – orange barbecue chicken; green chile-laced mac and cheese; a grilled cheese with truffles on brioche bread. Yum! There are local beers on tap and an adequate wine list. Desserts are house-made, and include a great bread pudding. Or for sheer, unadulterated comfort, order the caramelized banana split. This place may be your best Santa Fe discovery!

Dr. Field Goods Kitchen Dr. Field Goods Kitchen is a joyful place – one that in less than three years has gone from a food cart to a lively little café regularly listed as one of the Top Ten restaurants in town. “I took my knowledge of world cuisine and turned it into a local and sustainable menu,” says chef-owner Josh Gerwin. That menu features everything from traditional northern New Mexico enchiladas to what he calls El Pato Loco sandwich: duck confit, orange marmalade, cashew butter, fresh pears and arugula/shaved onion salad on a homemade potato-bread Kaiser roll. His “Bad Ass BLT” has gained a loyal following for the roasted patty of ground bacon garnished with organic tomatoes and lettuce and a slather of mayo. Gerwin is a Santa Fean who got classical French training at the New England Culinary Institute. He’s recently added a butcher shop and bakery to his petite empire.

Santa Fe Culinary Academy After all this food, we bet you’re wondering how to learn to do all this to food yourself. For that, you need to check out the Santa Fe Culinary Academy, on the top floor of the Plaza Mercado building on San Francisco Street. This place is the real thing. It offers community cooking classes, yes, but if you’re really serious, investigate the SFCA’s Professional Culinary Program.

The Academy’s one-year Professional Culinary Program provides a unique curriculum, a low studentto-teacher ratio, and hands-on experience. Students receive instruction in the studio kitchen and in the laboratory kitchens. At the student restaurant, The Guesthouse, students actually run a lunch service, a dinner service, and ultimately design their own restaurant concept. They learn key points of service, restaurant economics, and fundamentals of management.

Students participate in weekly externships at SFCA’s participating community of restaurants, hotels, and bakeries, as well as local non-profits and farms.

COMFORT FOOD 39

Inspired CUISINE FARM

WRITTEN BY KATE McGRAW PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT “JAIME “ RAMIREZ

SANTA FE Radish & Rye

Santa Feans are joyful over Radish & Rye. It is the newest entry in the Santa Fe restaurant lineup, and already receiving kudos on Yelp and OpenTables.com, and raves from local critics. Radish & Rye (what an inspired name!) is the creation of longtime Silver City epicures Dru Ruebush and his partner Camille Bremer, joined by Santa Fe’s award-winning beverage master Quinn Stephenson. As a partner in each place, Stephenson oversees the bar offerings at Coyote Café, Geronimo, his own High Note (opening this summer) and Radish & Rye. At Radish & Rye, all the cocktails are bourbon-based. There are more than 50 top bourbons and ryes on the bar list. There also are more than 100 half-bottles of wine available.

“We want people to get as much food and wine experience as they can in one outing,” says Dru. To complement the all-American whiskies, Radish & Rye serves a “farm-inspired” cuisine. The emphasis is contemporary American, with just a trace of Southern influence. You’ll find small plates at Radish & Rye. In a nod to his 12 years of Portland, Oregon experience, Chef David Gaspar de Alba has freshly-caught Pacific Northwest salmon FedExxed overnight. But. You’ll also find smoked ribs on the menu and fried green tomatoes. And there’s a hint of bourbon in the pecan pie.

“We’re eclectic,” says Dru Ruebush. “Our desire is to be farm-fresh; to honor the farmers. We’ve already got five or six local farmers that we’re working with directly and of course we haunt the Farmers’ Market. Our goal is always well-executed, well-presented food, whether it’s our small plates, large plates or sides.” It’s a goal Radish & Rye is meeting.

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Because we are passionate about fresh food, and proud to support local farmers and ranchers, our menu changes with the seasons.

In addition to shopping at the Farmer’s Market every Tuesday and Saturday, we work closely with local farmers and ranchers to build our menu from the freshest meat, dairy and produce available.

548 AGUA FRIA STREET • SANTA FE, NM 87501

505.930.5325 • RADISHANDRYE.COM

Modernist Foraged Cuisine in Silver City

SILVER CITY The Curious Kumquat

Every morning, Chef Rob Connoley, owner of The Curious Kumquat in Silver City, heads out into the adjacent Gila Wilderness to hunt – forage – for wild foods. This habit has garnered Connoley international recognition. He applies modern cooking techniques to foraged foods for an intriguing and delicious eating experience.

In the process, he has educated himself about the foods of the indigenous peoples. “I originally was a locavore restaurant focusing on vegetables grown in the area,” Chef Rob says, “but what I found is that growers were limited in what they were willing to commit space to, and that off-season, greenhouse-grown vegetables just didn't have the quality that I needed. So I researched historic Apache diets (items found in pots and digs at the local museums) which led me to a number of indigenous plants that sustained the Apaches, and Mimbreanos before them, for many years. That led me to be mentored by a local foraging expert, Doug Simon. Doug ultimately educated me on acorns, cattails, cholla (cactus), prickly pear (cactus), dock, plantain, currant, stinging nettle, and many more wild plants.”

“With Doug's knowledge of plants, and my knowledge of modern cooking techniques, I prepare 5- to 7-course dinners that feature those plants, but elevate them beyond salads and casseroles. Depending on the season I might prepare a Thai spiced acorn croquette on amaranth porridge, or a citrusy cattail salad with fermented currant and monkey flower berries. All of my dishes are meant to be big flavors that highlight what the Gila Wilderness has to offer in season,” Rob adds.

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The award for most far-flung modernist cuisine…

chef Rob Connoley of the Curious Kumquat in Silver City, New Mexico.

–Saveur

42 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

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new combinations of

by putting peppered butternut

ingredients in your food,

squash and thin, crisped slices of –New Mexico Magazine

eating, and welcome the opportunity to experience

Curious Kumquat conjures Morocco merguez sausage on a baguette.

If you are adventurous in

the Curious Kumquat in

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downtown Silver City is worth a visit, for both lunch and dinner.

–Desert Exposure

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A Foodies Destination

–New Mexico Magazine

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Open Tuesday - Saturday 11am - 4pm & 5:30pm - 8:30pm 575.534.0337 • 111 E. College Ave. • Silver City, NM

MODERNIST FORAGED CUISINE 43

Hist sto st tor oric

Hot ote ot tel els, Lodg d es & In dg Inn nns WRITTEN BY JOE BURGESS AND KATE McGRAW I PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE BURGESS Among the first businesses established when Santa Fe was founded by Spanish colonists in 1607 was an inn or “fonda.” The need for accommodations in New Mexico expanded rapidly with the arrival of settlers by the wagonload from eastern states on the Santa Fe and Butterfield Trails. The coming of the iron horse, a means of safe, fast and more comfortable form of travel, was accompanied by a rapidly expanding lodging industry.

Accommodations in Santa Fe and the northern villages often reflect the Spanish heritage that prevailed in the region for centuries. Taos was greatly influenced by the influx of peoples from eastern states and northern Europe. Historic route 66 is the most prevalent influence along the I-40 corridor from Tucumcari through Albuquerque to Gallup, with Gallup also being influenced by the old west movie industry.

Southern New Mexico reflects its old west cattle, mining and railroad history, complete with bars, bordellos and a tinge of upscale Victoria.

New Mexico’s historic lodging compliments the exciting eras of Native American emergence, Spanish conquests, old west shootouts and the arts from prehistoric times to modern contemporary. Of course the facilities represent a myriad of historic periods, moments and events and, most importantly, they’re fun!

SANTA FE Inn of the Governors The Inn of the Governors, that inviting downtown Santa Fe motor inn with the fresh flowers dripping from its balconies and the lovely patio adjoining its famous saloon, is officially an historic hostelry this year. The Inn of the Governors is turning 50. The personalized service, complimentary Mountain Sunrise Breakfast, daily tea and sherry hour, free parking, and the location just two blocks from the plaza now comes with a soupcon of history.

In the latter years of the 19th century the Inn’s location was a manmade cavern used to store ice. Early in the 20th century, the ice cavern evolved into a livery stable, and then into an auto shop in the 1950s. In 1960 the garage transitioned into a Buick dealership.

About this time Santa Fe’s destiny as a tourist attraction began to

44 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

manifest itself. In 1965 businessman Jeff Vander Wolk bought the site and arranged to build the first 80 rooms of the Inn of the Governors. Twenty years later, he built another 20 rooms.

Visitors will notice that a more elegant pool area is being created. The pool is the Inn of the Governors’ 50th anniversary gift to itself and its patrons, but the Inn also is making a Golden Anniversary gift to the Santa Fe community. Anyone who books three nights at the prevailing rate gets a fourth night for only $50 – and the $50 goes directly to a local non-profit. In the first quarter of 2015, this promotion resulted in $5,700 going to Kitchen Angels, a charity that delivers hot meals to homebound patients. In the second quarter, $11,650 went to the non-profit ArtSmart!

SILVER CITY The Palace Hotel

Reminiscent of a small hotel in the European Tradition.

Celebrating 115 Years

Located in the Downtown Historic District.

Affordable Rates • 18 Rooms & Suites • WiFi • Flat Screen TVs • Microwave & Fridge Triple Sheeting • Continental Breakfast • Special Meeting & Event Room

106 W. Broadway • Silver City, NM 88061 575-388-1811 • www.silvercitypalacehotel.com Visit Ol West Gallery & Mercantile next door.

46 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

As reported by the Silver City Enterprise, the Palace Hotel opened on March 1, 1900. Owner Max Shutz, “spared no pains or expense to make the new hotel an up-to-date house in every respect,” to include closets, bathrooms and electric lights! It is located in the elegant Meredith and Ailman bank building originally constructed in 1882 with dark green ironwork and an imposing facade.

Current owner Nancy Thompson Johnson, with the help of the MainStreet Project and New Mexico Historical Preservation Office, restored the Palace to its former elegance, reopening it in July 1990. The lobby includes period furnishings, a large mirror and a painting of Silver City’s famous “Madame Millie” Cusey.

Located in the historic downtown district, The Palace Hotel is surrounded by galleries, shops, coffee houses and restaurants. It has been featured in Sunset, Gourmet, Travel and Leisure, National Geographic Traveler and the New York Times.

CHIMAYO Rancho de Chimayó Hacienda Sitting on property in the upper Cañada de Chimayó acquired by Manuel Jaramillo in the early 1700’s, two family homes were constructed by his great grandsons, Hermenegildo and Epifanio Jaramillo in the 1800s. In 1965, the home of Hermenegildo and his wife, Trinidad, was turned into a restaurant, Restaurante Rancho de Chimayó, managed by Florence Jaramillo.

In 1984, the successful restaurateur completed the transformation of the old adobe home of Epifanio and his wife, Adelaida into Hacienda Rancho de Chimayó.

Perched atop a quiet mesa overlooking the restaurant property, each of the hacienda’s seven guest rooms opens onto an enclosed courtyard. Within each room one finds turn of the century antiques, a private bath, a quiet sitting area and fireplace.

The Jaramillos trace their heritage to José Jaramillo Negrete and his wife María de Sotomayór who arrived from Mexico City in 1693. Their offspring were among those colonizing the Spanish villages north of Santa Fe.

Your Guide ALBUQUERQUE

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Diane’s Bakery & Deli 610 N. Bullard

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575.538.8722 www.dianesrestaurant.com 575.538.8722 www.dianesrestaurant.com

The Curious Kumquat 111 E. College Ave. 575.534.0337

Chu Chu’s Restaurant

Bouche French Bistro 451 W. Alameda St.

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French Classics Contemporary American Del Charro Saloon Appetizers, Salads Inn of the Governors 101 W. Alameda Sandwiches, 505.982.4333 www.delcharro.com Burgers, Desserts Dinner For Two 106 N. Guadalupe St. French 505.820.2075 www.dinnerfortwo.com Fine Dining Dr. Field Goods 2860 Cerrillos Rd. New Mexican 505.471-0043 www.drfieldgoods.com Fusion Elevation Bistro 10e E. Water St. American 505.820.0363 Traditional India House 2501 Cerrillos Rd. Magestic 505.471.2651 www.indiahousenm.com Indian Jambo Cafe 2010 Cerrillos Rd. African 505.473.1269 www.jambocafenet Homestyle Joe’s Dining Rodeo Rd. at Zia European 505.471.3800 www.joesdining.com Gluten Free Joseph’s of Santa Fe 428 Agia Fria St. Culinary 505.982.1272 www.josepjsofsantafe.com Pub L’Oliver 229 Galisteo St. Fine South505.989.1919 www.loliversantafe.com western French Los Cuates 750 N. St. Francis Dr. Authentic 505.992.5800 www.lodgeatsantafe.com New Mexican Masa Sushi 927 W. Alameda St. Japanese 505.982.3334 Sushi Bar MuDu Noodles 1494 Cerrillos Rd. Pan Asian 505.983.1411 www.mudunoodles.com Cuisine Old House Restaurant 309 W.San Francisco St. Contemporary 505.995.4530 www.eldoradohotel.com Global Cuisine Osteria D’Assisi 58 Federal Place Authentic 505.986.5858 www.osteriadassisi.com Italian Pizzeria da Lino 204 N. Guadalupe St. Pizza, Pasta 505.424-8000 www.pizzeriaespiritu.com Salads, Gelato Pranzo Italian Grill 540 Montezuma Ave. Original Italian/ 505.984.2654 www.pranzosantafe.com Mediteranian Radish & Rye 548 Agua Fria St. Contemporary 505.930.5325 www.radishandrye.com American

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505.982.6297 www.bouchbistro.com Cowgirl BBQ 319 S. Guadalupe 505.982.2565 www.cowgirlsantafe.com

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Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces - 575.532.4277 705 S. Telshor Blvd. www.hotelencanto.com

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Japanese 505.982.9708 www.shohko.com Sushi Bar Swiss Bistro & Bakery 401 S. Guadalupe St. Pastries, Cakes 505.988.1111 www.swissbakerysantafe.com Chocolate, etc.

Tabla de Los Santos 210 Don Gaspar Ave. Continental 505.992.6354 www.tablassantafe.com Fine Dining The Bonsai Asian Tacos 3668 Cerrillos Road Asian 505.316.9418 www.facebook.com Food Truck Thai Vegan 1710 Cerrillos Road Thai 505.954.1780 www.thaivegannm.com Vegan The Compound 653 Canyon Road Contemporary 505.982.4353 www.thecompountrestaurant.com American Tia's Cocina 125 Washington Ave. Northern 505.988.4900 www.hotelchimayo.com New Mexican Zia Diner 326 Guadalupe Contemporary 505.988.7008 www.ziadiner.com American

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Gardunos Restaurant & Cantina Hotel Albuquerque 800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW 505.843.6300 www.hotelabq.com Zacatecas 3423 Central Ave. NE 505.255.TACO www.zacatecastacos.com

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Northern

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this page: El Santuario de Chimayó east of Española, symbolizes the region’s strong beliefs in spiritual and physical healing initiated by both Spanish and native cultures, the “Lourdes of America,” is an important Catholic pilgrimage center and National Historic Landmark.

48 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

NORTHERN MOUNTAINS CHIMAYO

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Historic RESTAURANTS

WRITTEN BY KATE McGRAW, PHOTO COURTESY RANCHO DE CHIMAYO

CHIMAYO Rancho de Chimayó Restaurante Celebrates 50 Years!

History lives at Rancho de Chimayo. North of the world-famous Santuario de Chimayo on Santa Fe County Road 98 sits the “rancho,” a 150-year-old adobe domain that has been offering splendid northern New Mexican traditional food for 50 years. But the place is even older than that. Owner Florence Jaramillo says the house was begun in 1864.

“And you know New Mexican families,” she says cheerily. “Every time they added to the family, they added another room.” Eventually, eight children grew up in the sprawling, cottonwood-shaded home.

Florence and her husband Arturo inherited a one-sixth share of the house from his grandfather Hermenegildo Jaramillo in 1959, and the other legatees allowed the couple to buy them out, share by share. Florence, a Connecticut girl who’d met Arturo when he was in the Navy, got an accounting job in Santa Fe and contributed both her salary and her hard work on the adjacent vegetable-and-chile farm. By 1965, they were able to open the restaurant, featuring the recipes of Arturo’s grandmother Trinidad. “We were off the beaten path, but we just kept plugging away,” Florence remembers. The Hacienda, a seven-room country inn, opened in a restored family home across the road in 1985. A gift shop sells souvenirs, fine jewelry and pottery and the 50th anniversary Rancho de Chimayo Cookbook.

Rancho de Chimayo has been named a New Mexico Culinary Treasure by the state Tourism Department!

Nothing is more delightful than a brew and a plate of pollo estilo con queso in the romantic coziness of the thick adobe walls in winter, or a batch of tacos and a margarita on the stone terrace in summer. History is alive and well at Rancho de Chimayo.

50 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

top: Rancho de Chimayó is New Mexico – the food, the hospitality, the atmosphere, the historic setting creates that experience found only in America’s enchanted state. 50th anniversary edition thabove: The Rancho de Chimayo Cookbook: The Traditional Cooking of New Mexico, by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison, is available in a special 50th anniversary edition this year.

OjoCaliente jo Mineral Springs Resort & Spa

Ojo Calientee Mineral Springs Re R Resort sort & Spa is a legendary r oasis located in the ry high desert between Taos and Santa Fe. Deemed sacred by the Native Americans who inhabited this area, this treasured land and its ancient springs have provided a secluded sanctuary and a source of healing for body, mind and spirit for thousands of years. Built in 1868, Ojo is one of the nation’s oldest natural health resorts and is the world’s only known hot springs with the combination of four different, sulfur-free, mineral waters including iron, arsenic, lithia and soda. Enchanting accommodations (including two private homes), a full-service spa, an exceptional restaurant, daily yoga and thousands acres of hiking and mountain biking trails make Ojo Caliente a true health and wellness destination.

This iconic gem of Northern New Mexico has received numerous enhancements over the past 15 years which have contributed dramatically to improving the Ojo guest experience, while remaining true to the unique character and essence of this special place. It is these sacred and legendary waters that continue to attract generations to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs. Over 100,000 gallons per day come to the surface, revitalizing those who soak in the healing waters. Few know that the word “spa” is actually an acronym for the Latin phrase “salus per aquas” which literally means “health through water.” Ojo truly is the quintessential spa amongst spas.

Ojo has twelve meticulously maintained geothermal mineral pools, including three Private Outdoor Pools with Kiva fireplaces. Most recently Ojo enhanced one of it’s most popular amenities by adding a new Mud Pool that will now be open year round, weather permitting. The full-service spa offers a wide array of relaxing and restorative therapies including nurturing massage and body and face treatments. You’ll also find unique Native American and Ayurvedic therapies

LOCATION ATTRACTIONS Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa Suites, cottages, hotel, private homes, full-service spa, restaurant, gift shop, wine bar and lounge, yoga, hiking & biking trails.

The Artesian Restaurant. Upscale, yet casual dining experience and charming atmosphere. Menu includes New Mexican favorites and global cuisine accented with seasonal produce from Ojo’s Farm: Grilled Artichoke, Spinach Salad, Chile Seared Sea Scallops, Lamb Chops and Pasta Pomodoro. Wine Bar menu: Poblano Chile Fries, Homemade Pizzas, Buffalo and Vegetarian Burgers. Don't miss the decadent chocolate truffles! Serving wine and beer.

Full-service Spa. Offers a wide array of soothing and restorative therapies including nurturing massage and rejuvenating face and body treatments.

Ojo Caliente is located 24 miles north of Española on US285, featuring centuries old hot springs flowing from four distinct mineral sources.

TOUR From Ojo Caliente, take US285 south and go west on US84 to Abiquiu and Ghost Ranch or east on US84 to return south through Espanola to Santa Fe. To Taos, travel 37 miles northeast on NM 567 through Carson to the paved West Rim Road to US 64, crossing the stunning Rio Grande Gorge Bridge to Paseo del Pueblo Norte and head south into town.

MORE INFORMATION 52 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa (505)583-2233, guestrelations@ojospa.com ojospa.com

including the Ancient Echoes, based on East Indian head massage, and Blue Corn and Prickly Pear Salt Scrub that incorporate locally harvested, wild-crafted herbs and oils.

Guests staying in the Cliffside, Pueblo or Plaza Suites have access to the Kiva Pool for a serenely private soaking experience with extended soaking hours only for guests lodging in these rooms. In the Artesian Restaurant the chef blends local flavors with global cuisine to create a delightful menu that ranges from traditional New Mexican favorites, plus a variety of seasonal specials that embody the rich flavors of the freshly picked produce grown in Ojo’s gardens and two-acre farm. Signature items and lighter fare plus an extensive selection of local and imported wine and beer are available in the adjacent Wine Bar & Lounge.

Ojo Caliente, which means “hot eye,” was named by the Spanish explorers who discovered it on their search for the Fountain of Youth in the 1500s, while Native American inhabitants of the area believed the waters were given to them by their gods. Steeped in myth and legend, the ancient springs at Ojo Caliente provide a welcome respite of healing and relaxation for all who soak in its sacred waters.

Lodging rates include entry to all mineral pools every day during your visit including the day you arrive and depart. Ojo Caliente is located just one hour from Taos and Santa Fe.

opposite, from top left: Twelve pools are fed by natural, sulfur-free hot springs supplying four distinct mineral waters. The Cliffside Suites have a private back patio with outdoor soaking tub facing the cliffs. Cedar Planked Salmon with Bok Choy from Ojo’s Farm. Private Outdoor Pools with Kiva fireplaces can be rented by the hour. inset: Iron from this sand-bottom pool is believed to be beneficial to the blood and immune system. above: Stunning evening soaks under star-filled skies in the Cliffside Pools.

Photos courtesy Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa.

NORTHERN MOUNTAINS OJO CALIENTE 53

54 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Taos & Ageless Beauty Mystique

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE BURGESS Taos, backed by the rugged peaks of the Sangre de Cristo mountain range, has become a major hub for both the arts and the ultimate in outdoor experiences. Streets lined with galleries, shops, quaint coffee houses and historic hotels touch the creative spirit within each of us. Huge cottonwood trees, seasonal flowers and crackling fireplaces warm the atmosphere of this high altitude plateau year round.

An impressive collection of museums showcase the region’s diverse cultures and multifaceted talent pool.

The mysticism of Taos, in a centuries old presentation of cultural development, natural beauty and brilliant sunshine, has captivated America’s artists, writers, historians and anyone else who simply want to experience the essence of New Mexico’s enchanted spirit. The multistoried structures of Taos Pueblo, occupied for a millennium, the bold adobe walls of St. Francis de Asis church and the stark contrasts created by the river and its gorge fill portfolios and manuscripts with the jewels of this high desert destination.

The region represents New Mexico’s bold challenge to Colorado ski claims. It includes the adrenaline-charged slopes of Taos Ski Valley, ranked among National Geographic’s top 25 ski towns in the world, and the family-oriented slopes at Red River, Sipapu and Angel Fire. High speed lifts, snowmobiles and hot air balloons round out this plein air sketch of a perfect winter getaway.

Summer activities are no less challenging. White water rafting, fly fishing, hiking, biking, horseback and llama treks, and yes, lifts are still running and the nightlife steaming.

Live music, excellent food, wine, a round of Las Vegas style gambling and a hot rock massage provide an incredible diversion to sore muscles from the day’s activities. opposite: This pensive Navajo woman reflects the late sculptor R.C. Gorman’s love of his native tribe and the women he never tired of depicting.

It’s found in the patio of his eponymous gallery in Taos, which became his home.

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56 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Indian

Country GALLUP, ZUNI, CHACO CANYON, SHIPROCK, CHELLY, CANYON DE CHELLY L , FOUR CORNERS, LY MESA VERDE E MONUMENT VA V VALLEY LLEY

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WRITTEN BY JOE BURGESS I PHOTO BY TOM KENNEDY Northwest New Mexico encompasses the largest market for Native American arts and crafts in the world. Successive generations of talented tribal artisans from the Navajo Nation and the pueblos of Zuni, Acoma and Laguna produce the highest quality handmade blankets, jewelry and pottery to be found anywhere.

The previous inhabitants of the area were the ancient Anasazi, ancestors of the Pueblo people, who left behind impressive ruins at Chaco Culture National Historic Park and Aztec Ruins National Monument in New Mexico, Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado and Canyon de Chelly National Monument in Arizona.

Segments of Historic Route 66 pass through the pueblos of Acoma and Laguna and form the main streets of Gallup and Grants. Scenic Route 53 accesses El Malpais and El Morro National Monuments and the Pueblo of Zuni.

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, a cluster of sandstone buttes and needles on the Arizona-Utah border defines the American West to many western movie buffs. It is located on the Navajo reservation and accessed by US 163. Certain reservation roads require Navajo permits or guides.

Mesa Verde National Park is a region occupied by ancestral Pueblo people from 600 to 1300 A.D. and includes the most remarkable cliff dwelling communities in the United States. Check in at the Mesa Verde Visitor and Research Center near the park entrance. It is accessed off US 160 east of Cortez, Colorado.

The geologic diversity of the terrain has given rise to major recreational opportunities including trophy fishing, rock climbing, mountain biking and hot-air ballooning. Four Corners is the only place in the United States where a person can actually straddle four states at once. Photo opportunities are especially prevalent along I-40 near Laguna and Gallup, Shiprock near Farmington, Canyon de Chelly in Arizona and Monument Valley in Utah, the latter three located in the Four Corners region.

opposite: A Pueblo Buffalo dancer moves past spectators at the Gallup parade for the Inter Tribal Ceremonial events. this page: A traditional Navajo squash-blossom necklace from the late 1940s or early 1950s, found at Richardson’s Trading Company in Gallup.

INDIAN COUNTRY GALLUP 57

Tra Tr rad adi din ing ng HISTORIC

POSTS

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED

BY JOE BURGESS

Trust. It’s all about trust. The real trading posts dealing with real Native American hand-made goods nurture relationships based on trust earned over periods of time ranging from years to decades and generations. Traders and Native American families consider themselves to be each other’s business partners.

In the 1880s, Indian Trading Posts were mere grocery and feed stores and regional social centers for Native American families. They have evolved into marketing firms, quality assurance regulators and financial institutions for Native American products. While standardizing business practices and creating international markets for Native American arts and crafts, traders were also able to ensure that Indian artists and craftspeople received a fair wholesale price for their products.

Obviously, a fair return to the artisan was critical to maintaining a viable market. To do so, however, the artisans often needed financial help to purchase the expensive materials, like silver, turquoise and yarn and, of course, the tools for creating the handmade products. Traders have used cash advances and short-term loans to keep the artisans in production, while accepting handmade items, called pawn, as collateral for the loans. The items were returned upon repayment of the loan. The vast majority of pawn, called live pawn, is held in vaults for the owner until the loan is repaid. The pawn displayed for sale, known as dead pawn, consists of the items that were never reclaimed.

The pawn system was self-regulating throughout the system’s history, an example of the best aspects of the free enterprise system. Even though most pawn is returned, over a century’s worth of accumulation makes pawn vaults excellent sources of reasonably priced, top quality handmade items. The real trader knows which individual and clan is responsible for a particular item and can provide a certificate of authenticity.

58 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

GALLUP Ellis Tanner Trading Co. The fourth generation of the Tanner trading families, owner Ellis Tanner’s great-grandfather, Seth Tanner, came west with Brigham Young in the mid-1800s and helped settle the region. The Ellis Tanner Trading Company in Gallup was founded in1967 and moved to a 10-acre site in 1980 that allows for pow-wows and other festive events.

"It has to work for all of us," is the motto at the trading company. A fair payment to the artisan and a competitive price for the customer is imperative. Patrons walk through racks of Pendletons, rugs, pottery, baskets and cases of both “dead pawn” and the more recent turquoise and silver jewelry made by area Native Americans. The work of painters and carvers is also abundant.

Resembling the days of old west trading posts, Ellis Tanner Trading Company remains a full-service facility. People can bring in lambs, piñon nuts, jewelry, wool, and rugs to sell, they can buy groceries, dry goods, and hardware and they can pawn for cash.

ZUNI Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. The first trading post and U.S. Post Office were opened at this location between Gallup and Zuni in the 1940s by Richard and Lee Van der Wagen. The Foutz brothers bought the property in 1953 and it was purchased by Joe Milosevich (Joe Milo) in 1993, naming it Joe Milo’s Whitewater Trading Company. It carries a broad selection of authentic handmade Zuni, Navajo and Hopi jewelry, Navajo rugs, pottery, old pawn, kachinas, Zuni fetishes, sand paintings and one-of-a-kind collector’s items for sale or display. There is also a selection of authentic reproduction artifacts, including ceremonial spears and wall hangings.

Joe started in the trading business at the age of 22 working from the bottom up and doing everything from sweeping floors to operating the cash register. He learned from some of the best traders in the business, especially the art of building relationships with area artisans. Hard work, patience, determination and understanding the importance of earning customer trust led to his own successes in business as a respected trader in Native American products. opposite: Some of the beautiful goods at the historic trading posts include (top to bottom) a traditional Navajo rug from Richardson’s Trading Company; a sterling silver, channel-set cuff in turquoise and coral from Richardson’s, and three non-traditional kachina figures carved by famed Zuni artist Marlin Pinto, from Joe Milo White Water Trading Company.

INDIAN COUNTRY TRADING POSTS

59

COLLECTING

Native American Art It is worth the effort for purchasers to become knowledgeable shoppers.

In the U.S., penalties are stiff for illegally labeling imitations as genuine products. An item can only be labeled genuine if one or more Native Americans have done all the work involved in creating it.

The Indian Arts and Crafts Board (IACB) of the U.S. Department of the Interior provides a number for reporting violations: Call (888)ARTFAKE or visit: http://www.iacb.doi.gov

Buyer’s Guide for Purchasing Native American Arts & Crafts

Ask the following questions when making a purchase: Materials: Of what is the item made? If there are stone settings, are they natural, stabilized, reconstituted or man-made?

Technique: Was the piece completely handmade, or was it made with manufactured components or processes? For example, if pottery, is it hand coiled, wheel thrown or poured greenware? Is it fired outdoors or in a kiln?

Artisan: What is his/her name? What is the tribal affiliation? If the item is marketed only as “Zuni” or “Navajo” jewelry, be sure it is made by an individual who is a member or certified Native American artisan of the Zuni Pueblo or Navajo Nation. Is there any additional information on the artist’s career, awards, etc. which can be included with the purchase?

GALLUP Richardson’s Trading Co. & Cash Pawn The fast pace of the 21st century continues to gain momentum, but crossing the threshold into Richardson’s Trading Company in Gallup allows you to experience a past era. Continuously family owned, Richardson's is one of the most colorful and historic Indian trading posts in the world, operating much like it did over one hundred years ago.

The wooden floors creak under your feet as you wonder through an incredible array of turquoise and silver earrings, squash blossom necklaces, concho belts, bracelets, rings, delicate needlepoint chokers – expansive cases filled with old pawn and contemporary Native American jewelry. Step into the adjoining room with over 3,000 authentic Navajo rugs, baskets and pottery and beyond that for fine art and museum galleries.

No matter what brings you to Richardson's, a peek at the past or to view today's top Native American artists, you'll walk away enriched.

Most days, Bill Richardson, who is 96 and pushing 97, still comes in to oversee the business and share his wealth of stories and information with long-time customers and travelers from around the globe.

Reprinted with the permission of the Indian Arts & Crafts Association (IACA). iaca.com

ZUNI Turquoise Village GALLUP EVENTS May Dawn ‘til Dusk Mountain Bike Race. Twelve hour endurance race on Gallup’s High Desert Trail System course.

505-863-7283 www.dawntilduskrace.com Jun United States Team Roping Championship USTRC Red Rock Park Classic. 505879-6181 Annual Lions Club Rodeo at Red Rock Park Arena.

505-722-2228 www.galluplions.org Wrangler Junior High Finals Rodeo at Red Rock Park Arena. 505-722-2228 Jul Wrangler Junior High Finals Rodeo at Red Rock Park Arena. 505-722-2228 21st Annual “Wild Thing” Championship Bull Riding at Red Rock Park Arena. 505722-3839 United States Team Roping Championship USTRC Turquoise Classic. 505879-6181 Aug Annual Gallup Inter-Tribal Indian Ceremonial at Red Rock Park and other Gallup venues. 505-863-3896 www.gallupintertribal.com Sep Rehobeth McKinley County Christian Health Care Services Charity Invitational XIII Golf Tournament fund raiser. 505-863-7283 Annual Navajo Nation Fair. 928-8716478 www.navajonationfair.com Squash Blossom Classic. Mountain Bike Race. 505- 979-2402 Oct Annual Shiprock Navajo Fair.

928-871-5801 60 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Dec 34th Annual Red Rock Balloon Rally at Red Rock Park. First weekend in December. 505-8630262 www.redrockballoonrally.com Southwest Indian Foundation and “Reunion of the Masters, Art of the People” award scholarships to student artists in the region through the Children’s Art Scholarship Program. Held the first weekend in December. Hands-on workshops held by the artists on Thursday and Friday. Scholarship winners announced on Sat. 505-722-3730 www.nps.gov/ hutr/www.southwestindian.com Ongoing events Arts Crawl. Local artists featured in downtown galleries and businesses monthly on the second Saturday of the month. 505722-2228 Crownpoint Rug Auction. Typically held on the second Friday of each month. Viewing of rugs starts at 4:00 pm to 6:30 pm.

Auction begins at 7:00 pm. Crownpoint Rug Weavers Assn. 505-786-5302 or 505-786-7386 www.crownpointrugauction.com Nightly Indian Dances and Native American vendors at 7:00 pm at the Courthouse Square. Memorial Day through Labor Day. 505-722-2228

A major supplier of raw materials in Zuni and dealer in Native American products, Turquoise Village has been a significant contributor to the Zuni art market for the last 37 years. Owner Greg Hofmann began selling to native artisans from his car while attending college. In 1978, he and college friend, Richard Toubman, pooled resources to open Turquoise Village in Zuni and remained partners there for 13 years. Greg continued until 2013 for total of 37 yrs. See ad on page 37.

Greg, a respected and knowledgeable Trader, passed away unexpectedly in early 2014. He will be greatly missed by the Zuni community and the surrounding area.

NAVAJO NATION Toadlena Trading Co. Toadlena Trading Post was established in the late 1890s, over time developing the Toadlena/Two Grey Hills designs that continued using hand-spun yarns and natural dyes.

The blankets are now considered the finest Navajo textiles of the 20th century.

Navajo rug trader Mark Winter renovated the post in 1997, retaining the original character of the building. He devoted part of the structure as a museum displaying rugs from generations of local weavers.

Celebrating 100 Years!

One of the most interesting and colorful Indian trading companies in the world can be found in downtown Gallup on historic Route 66 Richardson’s Trading Company and Cash Pawn, Inc. Established as traders on the Navajo Reservation since the turn of the century, the Richardson family continues a long and historic tradition in Gallup, New Mexico.

Wood floors, pew-like benches, cases full of polished silver and turquoise jewelry, piles of richlycolored Navajo rugs, indian pottery, baskets, beaded items, hundreds of unique, one-of-a-kind Indian art pieces and the sweet smell of aged leather saddles fill the interior of the store.

TRADERS SINCE 1860

505-722-4762 • Fax: 505-722-9424 222 W. Hwy. 66, Gallup, NM 87301 • e-mail: richardsonstradingco@yahoo.com

Zuni

Keshshi! “Welcome!”

WRITTEN RITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY TOM KENNEDY D DY If indeed New Mexico is enchanted, it is due in large part to its Pueblo Indian inhabitants. The most traditional of these groups, due in part to its relative isolation, is the Zuni. The largest of New Mexico’s 19 pueblos, the Zuni Reservation covers over 700 square miles. The town of Zuni, or Halona Idiwan’a, is the pueblo’s ceremonial and government center, as well as the best place to purchase the incredible crafts of Zuni artisans. Truly an “artist colony,” a large percentage of the Zuni workforce is involved in making art. The intricate Zuni inlay silverwork and stone “fetish” carvings are unmatched. Its pottery is distinctive and the quality unsurpassed.

A number of tours are possible in Zuni and the surrounding pueblo and can be coordinated through the Zuni Visitor Center. The heart of Zuni can be experienced on the “Middle Village” (Halona Idiwan'a) Walking Tour that winds through the tribe’s historic residential community and cultural center. The Old Zuni Mission Tour highlights Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe mission – ca. 1630

62 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Zuuninini ZUNI VISITOR & ARTS CENTER

ZUNITOURISM.COM • 505-782-7238

1239 HIST ORIC HW Y. 5 3 ZUNI, NE W ME XICO 8 7 3 2 7

© Tom Kennedy

© Tom Kennedy

E X PERI E NCE

Carvings and Jewelry Handmade By Zuni Artists and its acclaimed larger than life murals of Zuni ceremonial figures. The tribe’s culture is represented in the A:shiwi A:wan Museum and Heritage Center featuring an exhibit of the ancestral village of Hawikku.

Archaeological tours of the actual ruins of Hawikku, the place of first European contact in the Southwest, are also possible. Touring the Village of the Great Kivas, a Chacoan outlier with nearby rock art, is an option.

Visitors should absolutely consider the Zuni Artist Workshop Tour to gain exclusive access to some of Zuni's finest artists and learn about traditional Zuni arts from an expert.

Use common sense etiquette when visiting any of New Mexico’s pueblos or

opposite: The timeless gaze of a youthful Zuni dancer seems to reach across the centuries. above, top: Zuni singers provide the heart-beat for all traditional social dances. above, middle: Young Zuni dancers on their first public outing are no less enthusiastic than their elders.

Owned and Operated by Zuni Craftspeople. Authenticity Guaranteed.

Come in and see our selection at 1177 Hwy. 53.

G Visa and Master Card Accepted.

P.O. Box 426 • Zuni, NM 87327 • 505-782-4521

FINE ZUNI JEWELRY Monday thru Saturday 10:30 - 6:00

P.O. Box 429 • Zuni, NM 87327

505.782.5521 • 1.800.748.2405 email: tvillage@hughes.net

www.TurquoiseVillage.com

LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE ZUNI PUEBLO

Turquoise Rounded Needlepoint Set

Legendary Zuni Artist Edith Tsabetsaye

INDIAN COUNTRY PUEBLO OF ZUNI 63

For business or pleasure. Uniquely molted in the heart of Zuni Pueblo.

8 Guest Rooms, beautiful Patios for lounging and outdoor events, Meeting/Conference/Reception/Retreat facilities and full Catering Services.

Listed in all major Travel Guide Books and recommended by Guests on Trip Advisor. © Tom Kennedy

23 Pia Mesa Road • Zuni, New Mexico 87327 Phone: 505-782-4547 • Fax: 505-782-2155 • email: contact@halona.com

800-752-3278 • www.halona.com reservations. They are sovereign, self-governed nations with rules and laws that must be followed. Information obtained at the Visitor Center will guide you toward a safe and exciting Zuni experience.

DAILY LUNCH & DINNER SPECIALS PIZZAS, CALZONES, SUBS & HAMBURGERS

ATTRACTIONS

Lunch and Dinner - Spring, Summer & Fall Lunch and Dinner - Winter

HOURS 11AM - 10PM

505-782-2100 • 1344 SCENIC HIGHWAY 53 • ZUNI, NM

Cimarron Rose Bed & Breakfast & Tierra Madre Arts Gallery

Nurture your spirit in the rustic elegance of our hand-crafted naturally “green” Zuni Mountain Inn known for gracious hospitality, private full kitchen suites and ample amenities.

v Delivered Breakfasts v Wildlife Gardens

v Grills v Patios

v Fireplaces v Trails

Your “Zuni Mountain Oasis”

On Trail Of The Ancients Scenic Byway ~Highway 53 Between El Morro & El Malpais Nat’l. Monuments

1- 8 0 0 - 8 5 6 - 5776

v

www.cimarronrose.com

Old Zuni Mission. Originally constructed in 1629, the Spanish mission architecture now includes murals of Zuni Kachina figures.

Halona Plaza & The Inn at Halona. The former 1866 trading post provides fresh products, supplies and a deli. The adjoining, lively Bed & Breakfast features examples of Zuni arts, and modern conveniences.

(800) 752-3278 www.halona.com A:Shiwi A:Wan Museum & Heritage Center Displayed are artifacts from a 1916 Zuni excavation and a visual representation of the ancestral village. (505) 782-4403.

ChuChu’s Restaurant Offering a diverse menu and many daily specials, this family operated restaurant is the best dining choice while in Zuni.

Turquoise Village. One of seven local trading posts sells both raw materials as well as finished artworks. (505) 782-4892 Joe Milo’s Whitewater Trading Co. Located seventeen miles south of Gallup, the old trading post offers Zuni, Navajo and Hopi arts and crafts.

1(888) JOE MILO www.joemilo.com

EVENTS May Aug

Oct Nov

Zuni MainStreet Festival (505) 782-7238 Zuni Community Arts Expo.

(505) 862-1285 49th Annual Zuni McKinley County Fair.

(505) 782-7000 Zuni Ancient Way Fall Festival & Arts Market. (505) 782-7238 Zuni Christmas Lights Parade.

(505) 782-4495 ( ) 782-7238 Holiday Arts Market. (505)

• fetishes • jewelry • pottery

LOCATION

505.989.8728 • www.keshi.com

MORE INFORMATION RMATION

227 Don Gaspar Avenue • Santa Fe, NM 87501

64 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Zuni Pueblo is located ated on Scenic NM53, 37 miles south of Gallup, lup, 77 miles southwest st of Grants, 155 miles west of Albuquerque.

Hawikuh Maiden brooch by Gomeo Bobelu

Zuni Visitor Center (505) 782 782-7238 7238 www.zunitourism.com Museum & Heritage Center (505) 782-4403

This is a must stop enroute to the majestic Zuni Pueblo and El Morro National Monument!

White Water Trading Co. W H O L E S A L E

•

R E T A I L

Authenticity is guaranteed on Navajo rugs, kachinas, pottery, collector’s items, sand paintings, Zuni fetishes, Old Pawn, Zuni, Navajo and Hopi jewelry.

1•888•JOE•MILO P.O. BOX 104 • VAN DER WAGEN, NEW MEXICO • 87326 www.joemilo.com e-mail: joemilo@hughes.net 17 miles south of Gallup on Highway 602- Exit 20 in Gallup

New Mexico Southern

WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH STEWARD I

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERT “JAIME” RAMIREZ

Southern New Mexico has such incredible weather that just about any day is a good day to hit the road and see what the area has to offer.

White Sands National Monument is otherworldly in its beauty. Gypsum crystals provide the unique landscape, which makes up the largest gypsum sand dunes area on the entire planet.

Rockhounding abounds in Southern New Mexico. The City of Rocks State Park offers camping, picnic sites and a city of huge boulders to climb and ponder. Rockhound State Park near Deming will delight the rockhounder in anyone.

Journey inside the earth at Carlsbad Caverns National Park and enter a world of nature's making that will astound you.

There are various areas in the region for successful bird watching but one of the most spectacular spots is the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge near Socorro where tens of thousands of birds migrate.

Southern New Mexico’s Elephant Butte Lake State Park offers a full range of water sports including water skiing, swimming, kayaking, sailing, jet skiing and parasailing.

66 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

The Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument outside of Silver City will take you back to another time when the Mogollon culture enjoyed the Gila Wilderness.

The Silver City Museum and Western New Mexico University Museum are not to be missed. The WNMU Museum now houses the NAN Ranch collection of prehistoric artifacts, which is the largest Mimbres display in the country.

So if you’ve always held the notion that Southern New Mexico is just a vast desert with a small population and lots of jackrabbits hopping around, just two words for you – rethink it!

Roswell & "A city of mystery wonder.”

WRITTEN BY JOE BURGESS

Made famous by a 1947 intergalactic event, Roswell is regionally recognized for its museums and green parks, with miles of hike and bike trails and a zoo that includes a miniature train and woodenhorse carousel. A plethora of cultural activities includes the Anderson Museum of Contemporary Art featuring a wide collection of modern art forms, while the Roswell Museum and Art Center houses the Rogers Aston Indian Gallery and collections of paintings by Peter Hurd, Henriette Wyeth, and Georgia O'Keefe. The Historical Center for Southwest New Mexico, in the stately James Phelps White home, is filled with antiques, artifacts, and changing exhibits. The General Douglas L. McBride Museum displays military armaments on the campus of New Mexico Military Institute.

The intriguing International UFO Museum and Research Center, featuring UFO phenomenon exhibits and The Alien Caffeine Espresso Bar, provides a totally unforgettable experience.

Once the Native American hunting grounds of the Mescalero Apache and Comanche, cattle ranching became prominent with the opening of the Goodnight-Loving Trail and those of John Chisum in the 1860s-1870s. In 1870, Van Smith established the town of Roswell at the confluence of the Spring, Hondo and Pecos Rivers. Located along the Pecos River are Bitter Lakes National Wildlife Refuge and Bottomless Lakes State Park. See ad page15.

this page: The stately Chaves County Courthouse at Roswell was built in 1911, when citizens learned New Mexico would become a state the next year. Architect Isaac Rapp designed the “monumental civic” adaptation of the Beaux-Arts style.

SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO ROSWELL 67

Ruidoso "A mountain high playground.�

68

NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE BURGESS Rising high above the surrounding desert regions, Ruidoso is the playground for Southern New Mexico and West Texas.

Touting unique shops and fine-art galleries, horse racing, casino gambling and the Spencer Theater for the performing arts, entertainment and recreation are what Ruidoso does best. The cuisine is first rate and the music scene sizzles.

On the shoulder of 12,000-foot Sierra Blanca, Ski Apache is the nation’s southern most major ski area. Pristine streams, picnic spots, camping areas and Grindstone Lake lie adjacent to the downtown district. Cross-country horseback riding provides opportunities for the area's population of equestrian lovers.

Ruidoso hosts several of New Mexico’s premiere destination hotels, including The Inn of the Mountain Gods, offering swimming, golfing, fishing, hiking, mountain biking, riding stables and stunning Alpine vistas.

Billy the Kid and Pat Garrett are among the participants of the 1870s Lincoln County War, highlighted in the nearby Lincoln Historic District, and Ruidoso Downs’ Hubbard Museum of the American West keeps the legacy of the Old West alive for future generations.

opposite: Sculptures of wild horses enhance the entrance to the Hubbard Museum of the American West.this page: Over 20,000 petroglyphs crowd the rocks at Three Rivers Petroglyphs National Recreation Site at the base of the White Mountain Wilderness.

SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO RUIDOSO 69

SOUTHEAST CARLSBAD CAVERNS NATIONAL PARK One of nature’s marvels, the park consists of over 100 caves including the deepest in the U.S. at 1,567 feet. Tours available.

575-785-2232

FORT SELDEN HISTORIC SITE An 1800s cavalry fort that was utilized by the Buffalo Soldiers.

A year-round visitor center and living history demonstrations on weekends May through September. Nineteenth century military encampments second Saturdays monthly year-round.

575-526-8911

FORT STANTON STATE MONUMENT Established as a military fort in 1855, it also served as a tuberculosis hospital and WWII internment camp for German seamen. 888-667-2757

LINCOLN HISTORIC DISTRICT AND STATE MONUMENT The most visited state monument includes 17 structures representative of the 1870s-1880s Lincoln County War and escape of Billy the Kid. 888-667-2757

SMOKEY BEAR HISTORICAL PARK Located in Capitan, the park and visitor center honor the bear cub that became the icon of forest fire prevention.

888-667-2757

THREE RIVERS PETROGLYPH SITE (BLM) Over 21,000 glyphs are scattered over 50 acres dating back to between 900 and 1400 AD. 575-525-4300

VALLEY OF FIRES RECREATION AREA (BLM) The 5,000-year old, 125-square mile lava flow includes visitor center, campsites and trails. 575-648-2241

WHITE SANDS NATIONAL MONUMENT The 275 square miles of desert that include the world’s largest gypsum dunefield are a great place for a family romp or a full-moon music concert. 575-479-6124

SOUTHWEST BOSQUE DEL APACHE NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE Year-round birding. Visitor center, auto tour and hiking.

16 miles south of Socorro. 575-838-2120.

CITY OF ROCKS STATE PARK A city of giant monoliths protruding unexpectedly from the desert floor is located halfway between Silver City and Deming, 5 miles east of US180. The park has a visitor center, hiking trails, and a night sky observatory. Call for the observatory schedule.

575-536-9461.

ELEPHANT BUTTE LAKE STATE PARK New Mexico’s largest lake offers opportunities for boating, fishing, and swimming. Landlovers can find hiking trails, birding, and year-round events. History buffs will love the views of the 1916 dam and historic district at Dam Site Recreation Area. 575-744-5421.

FORT SELDEN An 1800s cavalry fort that was utilized by the Buffalo Soldiers. A year-round visitor center and living history demonstrations on weekends May through September.

Nineteenth century military encampments second Saturdays monthly year-round. 575-526-8911

GILA CLIFF DWELLINGS NAT’L MON. Follow the “Trail of the Mountain Spirits National Scenic Byway” north from Silver City along NM15 or NM35 to the national monument visitor center. Printed matter and a movie provide information about the 13th century inhabitants of this pristine area. The Cliff Dwellings are accessible by a short, well-maintained trail. 575-536-9344.

ROCKHOUND STATE PARK Rock specimens scattered across the slopes of the Florida (Flor-eeda) Mountains simply offer a great excuse to explore the area. Rockhounds meet regularly in the area southeast of Deming for demonstrations, sales and trading. 575-546-6782.

PANCHO VILLA STATE PARK Extensive historical exhibits depicting General Pancho Villa’s raid on Columbus, New Mexico in 1916 and his pursuit by General “Black Jack” Pershing. It was the first use of motorized vehicles and airplanes for military purposes. 575-531-2711

70 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

this page: A curtain formation at Carlsbad Caverns National Park highlights both the variety and intricate detail of nature’s underground artwork.

Parks Monuments

&

Historic Sites

WRITTEN BY JOE BURGESS

photo by bensonk42@flickr.com

Made famous by a 1947 intergalactic event, Roswell is regionally recognized for its museums and green parks, with miles of hike and bike trails and a zoo that includes a miniature train and wooden-horse carousel. A plethora of cultural activities includes the Anderson Museum of Contemporary Art featuring a wide collection of modern art forms, while the Roswell Museum and Art Center houses the Rogers Aston Indian Gallery and collections of paintings by Peter Hurd, Henriette Wyeth, and Georgia O'Keefe. The Historical Center for Southwest New Mexico, in the stately James Phelps White home, is filled with antiques, artifacts, and changing exhibits. The General Douglas L. McBride Museum displays military armaments on the campus of New Mexico Military Institute. The intriguing International UFO Museum and Research Center, featuring UFO phenomenon exhibits and The Alien Caffeine Espresso Bar, provides a totally unforgettable experience.

Once the Native American hunting grounds of the Mescalero Apache and Comanche, cattle ranching became prominent with the opening of the Goodnight-Loving Trail and those of John Chisum in the 1860s-1870s. In 1870, Van Smith established the town of Roswell at the confluence of the Spring, Hondo and Pecos Rivers. Located along the Pecos River are Bitter Lakes National Wildlife Refuge and Bottomless Lakes State Park. See ad page15.

PARKS, MONUMENTS & HISTORIC SITES CARLSBAD

71

White&Sands

National Monumen nt

New Mexico Museum of Space History

"Gypsum dunes and Space-age Technology."

ATTRACTIONS Alameda Park and Zoo. Oldest zoo in the southwest with exotic and indigenous animals. 100-year old Toy Train Depot. 1321 N. White Sands Blvd. 575439-4290 www.alamogordo.com.

Founders Park. Honoring the people and cultures involved in establishing the City of Alamogordo.

10th St. and White Sands Blvd.

New Mexico Museum of Space History. Model 2001 space station, Clyde W. Tombaugh Space Theater with a 40-foot wrap-around OMNIMAX screen and audio system and the John P. Stapp Air and Space Park collection of historic space items.

Hwy. 2001 off of Scenic Drive. 877-333-6589 www.nmspacemuseum.org.

Oliver Lee Memorial State Park. Rebuilt and authentically furnished 19th-century ranch house, recreational trail, developed picnic/campsites with panoramic view of the Tularosa Basin.

409 Dog Canyon Rd. 575-437-8284 www.nmparks.com.

Three Rivers Petroglyph Site and Recreation Area. One of the largest, over 21,000 petroglyphs, and most interesting sites in the desert southwest scattered over 50 acres. 575-585-3458.

White Sands National Monument. Nearly 300-sq. miles of glistening white gypsum sand dunes. US70 between the Las Cruces and Alamogordo. 575-679-2599 or 575-479-6124. www.white-sands-new-mexico.com

EVENTS

photo by clr_flickr@flickr.com

Apr Trinity Site Tour. 575-678-1134 May National Astronomy Day NM Museum of Space History 877-333-6589 www.nmspacemuseum.org Heritage Preservation Day. Oliver Lee Memorial State Park. 575-437-8284 Jun Shuttle Camp begins. 877-333-6589 www.nmspacemuseum.org Aug Otero County Fair. 575-437-6120 Sep Tularosa Basin Wine & Music Festival 800-826-0294 Cottonwood Festival 800-826-0294 Oasis Star Party. Oliver Lee Memorial State Park. 575-356-5331 White Sands Balloon Invitational. 800-826-0294 White Sands International Film www.s\wsiff.com 575-522-1232 Oct Trinity Site Tour. 575-678-1134 Dec Deck the Hall Holiday Music Fest.

877-333-6589 www.nmspacemuseum.org

LOCATION Alamogordo is located at the junction of US70 and US84, between Las Cruces and Ruidoso.

MORE INFORMATION Alamogordo Visitors Center (575) 437-6120 or (800) 826-0294 www.alamogordo.com.

City of Alamogordo http://ci.alamogordo.nm.us/site4.aspx.

72 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Alamogordo S i as the Serving th access hub h b for f a host h t off intriguing i t i i geologic l i formations, f ti outdoor recreation, prehistoric artistry and advanced technology, Alamogordo also offers its own enticements for visitors to pull off the freeways.

There is nothing more exciting to youngsters and grownups alike than the New Mexico Museum of Space History, with its OMNIMAX screen and planetarium, hands-on space displays and rockets. The community is also home to the Southwest’s oldest zoo and a toy train depot with rides through the park. Coupled with its downtown historic district, complete with galleries and coffee shops, Alamogordo should be on your local daytrip itinerary as a destination from El Paso and Las Cruces.

From your Alamogordo base, visit the Oliver Lee Memorial State Park south of town with its desert mountain hiking trails, White Sands National Monument to the west and the high mountain village of Cloudcroft to the east. North of town lie the Valley of Fires National Recreation Area, a craggy old lava flow area, and the Three Rivers Petroglyph National Recreation Site with thousands of the ancient rock carvings and access to hiking trails into the White Mountain Wilderness below 12,000-foot Sierra Blanca. Las Vegas style gambling and scheduled entertainment are just up the hill on the Mescalero Indian Reservation.

Technology pervades the region with the Sunspot solar observatories perched on the 9000-foot ridge overlooking Alamogordo, the world’s most advanced fighter jets stationed next door at Holloman Air Force Base and the nation’s largest military base at White Sands Missile Range. The White Sands base also features a museum and rocket display. See ad on back cover.

this page: Miles of gypsum dunes create an intriguing study area and playground. inset: The Museum of Space History in Alamogordo displays space artifacts, rockets and early manned capsules.

PARKS, MONUMENTS & HISTORIC SITES ALAMOGORDO 73

SOCORRO

Bosque del Apache National

Wildlife Refuge

"Intriguing locale for birders" Socorro continues to gain international prominence with its Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, the center for the National Radio Astronomy Observatory (NRAO) and San Miguel Parish built on El Camino Real National Historic Trail in 1615. A notable destination for golfers, rockhounds, nature photographers, campers and hikers, the town offers unique experiences found within an hour’s drive in any direction.

At the center of town, the plaza offers a relaxing venue for shoppers. The historic San Miguel church is only a block away and a few blocks further on the campus of New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology, a museum houses an impressive mineral collection dubbed Coronado’s Treasure Chest.

From Socorro, visitors travel west through historic Magdalena to the high Plains of San Augustin and the Very Large Array that coordinates large dish antennas to form a radio telescope 22 miles in diameter. Traveling south from Socorro, visitors cross the 57,000-acre Bosque del Apache refuge, where thousands of migrating birds pause daily for food and rest during late fall. Continuing south, the ruins of Fort Craig can be explored and El Camino Real International Heritage Center can be toured. The Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument lies to the northeast of Socorro – impressive remnants of Spanish colonization.

LOCATION

MORE INFORMATION Socorro Heritage and Visitors Center (575) 835-8927 tourism@socorronm.gov www.Facebook.com/SocorroNM (Visit Socorro, New Mexico) this page: Migrating water fowl recuperate at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. opposite: A radio telescope, one of 27 at the Very Large Array, maps deep space and searches for life.

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NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

photo by Larry Lamsa@flickr.com

Socorro is located at the junction of I-25 and US60, the rest stop for historic travelers and migratory birds. Magdalena is located on US60 between Socorro and the Karl G. Jansky Very Large Array.

Elephant Butte Lake State Park

TRUTH OR CONSEQUENCES

“New Mexico’s premiere boating destination.”

Socorro continues to gain international prominence with its Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, the center for the National Radio Astronomy Observatory (NRAO) and San Miguel Parish built on El Camino Real National Historic Trail in 1615. A notable destination for golfers, rockhounds, nature photographers, campers and hikers, the town offers unique experiences found within an hour’s drive in any direction.

At the center of town, the plaza offers a relaxing venue for shoppers. The historic San Miguel church is only a block away and a few blocks further on the campus of New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology, a museum houses an impressive mineral collection dubbed Coronado’s Treasure Chest.

From Socorro, visitors travel west through historic Magdalena to the high Plains of San Augustin and the Very Large Array that coordinates large dish antennas to form a radio telescope 22 miles in diameter.

Traveling south from Socorro, visitors cross the 57,000acre Bosque del Apache refuge, where thousands of migrating birds pause daily for food and rest during late fall.

Continuing south, the ruins of Fort Craig can be explored and El Camino Real International Heritage Center can be toured.

The Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument lies to the northeast of Socorro – impressive remnants of Spanish colonization.

ELEPHANT BUTTE EVENTS

photo by Susan LaFont

Jul

Independence Day Fireworks Display 877-744-4900 Aug American Bass Tournament 575-740-7320 Sep Annual Celebration 877-744-4900 Balloon Regatta 877-744-4900 Oct Casino Night 575-744-4708 Dec Luminaria Beach Walk and Floating Light Parade 877-744-4900 PARKS, MONUMENTS & HISTORIC SITES 75

SILVER

CITY

GilaCliff Dwellings National Monument

"Home to an ancient culture" WRITTEN BY JOE BURGESS I PHOTO BY LEANNE KNUDSEN

A lush, secluded canyon marks the path. A shady brook runs year round from the heart of a vast mountain wilderness, once called home by an ancient people. It is here at the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument that visitors can trace the footsteps of the Mogollon culture that lived in the high sheltered dwellings nearly 700 years ago. Their lives were consumed by making tools and pottery, farming, gathering nuts and berries, hunting and fishing.

Though the Mogollon people had lived in the surrounding area for many centuries, the cliff dwellings themselves were built in the late 13th century. Within 10 years, the tribe had constructed 42 rooms inside six natural caves. Some rooms served ceremonial purposes, while others were used as living and storage spaces.

The national monument, which includes a visitor center, campgrounds, and a small interpretive center, is located at the northern end of a 100 mile paved loop road that splits the nation’s first wilderness area.

LOCATION The Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument is located 44 miles north of Silver City on NM15.

MORE INFORMATION The Gila Cliff Dwellings Visitor Center (575) 536-9461 www.nps.gov/gicl.

Silver City Grant Co. Chamber of Commerce (575) 538-3785 www.silvercity.org Murray Ryan Visitor Center (575) 538-5555 www.southwestnewmexico.org 76

NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

PARKS, MONUMENTS & HISTORIC SITES SILVER CITY

77

Silver City & One of the Nation’s Best Art To T wns Places to Live & Retire...

WRITTEN BY JOE BURGESS I PHOTO BY ROBERT “JAIME” RAMIREZ

Crossing the state’s southwest corner on Interstate 10, one would be hard pressed to imagine that just up the road lies a historic mining community packed with museums, galleries, coffee shops, nickknacks and a back door accessing three million acres of national forest. Silver City has so much to offer, one almost overlooks its primary qualities – a friendly, small-town atmosphere with great weather.

The buildings and homes reflect its copper, silver and gold mining heritage as do the nearby head frames and a large open pit where mining began over 200 years ago. The Silver City Museum and gift shop in the historic H.B. Ailman home and the JW Art Gallery and Museum in Hurley breathe life into the rough and tumble eras at the turn of the last century.

Equally intriguing are the prehistoric peoples who occupied the area in pit-house communities and cliff dwellings. Western New Mexico University Museum displays incredible collections of artifacts and finely-painted pottery and serves as a research center for the Mimbres Culture. Almost totally surrounded by the nation’s first

this page: Diane’s Parlor is a popular afternoon gathering spot for locals. A great place to eat, shop or just hang out, Silver City also offers insights into the survival of prehistoric cultures and nomadic tribes, the development of major cattle and mining industries, the establishment of a touted arts community and the gateway to a three million acre forest playground.

78 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

SILVER CITY 79

Fine Dinin Steaks - Seafood - Pastas Salads - Gluten Free Entrées Decadent Homemade Desserts Fine Wine - Beer Full Catering & Event Planning

Establis ed

1996

Parlor Light Fare & Live Entertainment Tues-Fri 11am – 10pm Sat & Sun 9am-10pm

510 N. BULLARD • 575.538.8722 find us on facebook

dianesrestaurant@gmail.com

DianesRestaurant.com

designated wilderness, the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument and Visitor Center allow visitors to experience the rugged region that supported these early inhabitants.

Silver City hosts its own hiking and biking trails with hundreds of miles of trails crisscrossing the forested regions. Camp sites are managed by the forest service near the cliff dwellings, the Gila River, Lake Roberts and near mountain brooks. Wildlife and birding opportunities are plentiful.

In addition to historic lodging and a variety of restaurant fares that contribute to a positive experience, the city hosts events that draw national attention. The five-day Tour of the Gila bicycle stage race attracts international racers. The Silver City Blues Festival and the Pickamania Blue Grass Festival include big-name bands and the Wild, Wild West Pro Rodeo touts a large purse. Add to those a Hummingbird Festival, Gila River Festival, Clay Festival, Mariachi Workshop, Fort Bayard Celebration, Gem and Mineral Show markets and tours… well, there you have it – a great little place to have a great big time!

ATTRACTIONS ...the building block used to create a comfortable, time-tested, beautiful, southwestern home or patio. Cool in summer, warm in winter, rounded walls naturally embrace your life like no other building material.

Adobe is the perfect passive solar partner.

Call to arrange a visit to our production yard in Mule Creek.

547 Highway 78, Mule Creek, NM

• Delicious homemade fudge in a variety of flavors • Large selection of truffles and chocolates • Southwest edibles and fine gifts • Woodwick candies

316 N. Bullard St. • Silver City, NM • 575.388.1360

80 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Aldo Leopold Vista. Picnic and wilderness interpretive site, 6 miles north of Buckhorn.

Big Ditch Park. Formed when flood lowered Main St. 55 feet.

Bill Evans Lake. Fishing & primitive camping, 12 mi. south of Cliff.

Fort Cobre. A scale replica erected in Pinos Altos of an 1804 fort that protected the Santa Rita copper mine.

Fort Bayard. U.S. Infantry post built in 1863. Housed Buffalo Soldiers. 10 miles east of Silver City.

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. Cliff dwelling ruins from the 13th century. 44 miles north of Silver City. 575-536-9461 Gila National Forest/Silver City Ranger District. 3005 E. Camino del Bosque. 575-388-8201. www.fs.fed.us/r3/gila.

Hearst Church. Seasonal museum and art gallery. Built in 1898 with Hearst newspaper empire money. In Pinos Altos, 6 miles north of Silver City.

Kneeling Nun. Natural monolith resembling a praying nun. 15 mi. E. of Silver City at Santa Rita mine.

Lake Roberts. Camping, trout fishing, hummingbird banding, birding and stargazing. 28 miles north of Silver City. 575-536-3206 Lightfeather Hot Spring. Near Gila Cliff Dwellings Visitor Center. 30 minute walk includes 2 river crossings.

575-536-9461 Mimbres Region Arts Council. Scheduled events held throughout the year. 575-758-7289. www.mimbresarts.org Old Hurley Company Store. One of the first buildings in Hurley - supplied miners and their families, housed the Chino Mine payroll office and later served as a department store.

Pinos Altos Melodrama Theater. Adjacent to the Buckhorn Saloon in the Pinos Altos Opera House. Great fun! Original melodramas. Call for schedule. 575-388-3848 Royal Scepter Mineral Museum. Rock shop, jewelry and gifts. 1805 Little Walnut. 575-538-9001. www.RoyalScepter.com San Vicente Art Walks. Self-guided gallery and studio tour within walking distance in downtown Silver City. Call for map. 1800-548-9378 Silver City Museum. Area history, Indian artifacts, mining exhibits and Victorian furnishings. 312 W. Broadway.

575-388-5721. www.silvercitymuseum.org Trail of the Mountain Spirits National Scenic Byway. Loops north on NM15 to Gila Cliff Dwellings Nat’l. Monument, southeast on NM35, and west on NM152 and US180.

Western New Mexico University Museum. Local and natural history including the Eisele Collection of Prehistoric Southwestern Pottery and Artifacts, the world’s largest permanent exhibit of Mimbres pottery. 1000 W. College.

575-538-6386. www.wnmu.edu/univ/ museum.html

Your Winning Silver City Team

photo by robert “Jaime” Ramirez

is here for all of your Real Estate needs

Cissy McAndrew

Georgia Bearup

EcoBroker ® & GREEN Realtor ® 575-538-1337 CissyMcAndrew@gmail.com www.SilverCityTour.com

Qualifying Broker/Owner 575-388-8556 GeorgiaBearup17@msn.com www.MimbresRealty.com

GRANT COUNTY EVENTS Jan Feb Mar Apr

MRAC Indie Folk Series 575-538-2505 Chocolate Fantasia 575-538-2505 MRAC Indie Folk Series 575-538-2505 Historic Ft. Bayard Walking Tour.

575-956-3294 May Tour of the Gila 575-590-2612 www.tourofthegila.com Downtown Expo 575-534-1700 www.silvercitymainstreet.com Silver City Blues Festival 575-538-2505 www.mimbresarts.org Jun Wild, Wild West Pro Rodeo. 575-538-5560 www.silvercityprorodeo.com Jul Independence Day Festivities. 575-538-3785 SC Museum Ice Cream Social. 575-538-5921 Big Ditch Day. 575-534-1700 Aug The Silver City CLAY Festival. 575-538-5560 www.clayfestival.com Run to Copper Country Car Show. 575-5385560 www.coppercountrycruisers.com Signal Peak Challenge Mountain Bike Race.

575-388-3222 Sep San Vicente Artists Art Fair. 575-534-4269 artfair@silvercityartists.org Gem & MIneral Show. 575-538-5560 Cliff, Gila Grant County Fair. 575-538-3785 Pickamania! 575-538-2505 www.mimbresarts.org Gila River Festival 575-538-8078 www.gilaconservation.org Fort Bayard Days. 575-388-4477 www.fortbayard.org Red Hot Children’s Fiesta 575-388-1198 Southwest Festival of the Written Word www.swwordfiesta.org Oct RED DOT Studio & Gallery Walk.

575-313-9631 www.silvercitygalleries.com Nov Annual Lighted Christmas Parade.

575-534-1700 www.silvercitymainstreet.com Fiber Arts Festival. 575-538-5733 www.fiberartscollective.org Dec Tamal Fiesta y Más. 575-538-1337 www.tamalfiestaymas.org Victorian Christmas Evening. 575-538-5921

Lucy Tully Associate Broker, REALTOR® 575-654-5546 LucyTully.Realtor@gmail.com www.MimbresRealty.com

Pat Bearup Qualified Broker, REALTOR® 575-534-5030 Pat.Bearup@hotmail.com www.MimbresRealty.com

Lynn Bearup

No One Knows The Country Like We Do! ®

Open Weekends!

Monday-Friday 9 to 5 • Saturday-Sunday 10 to 4

Property Manager 575-313-3208 rent@mimbresrealty.com www.MimbresRealty.com

Property Management 575-313-3208 SilverCityRentals.com

575-538-3789 • 800-827-9198 • www.MimbresRealty.com Office in Historic Downtown Silver City • 414 N. Bullard St., Silver City, NM 88061

Celebrating 115 Years

Reminiscent of a small hotel in the European Tradition.

Located in the downtown historic district.

• Affordable Rates • 18 Rooms & Suites • Continental Breakfast • Wi-Fi • Cable TV • Special Meeting & Event Room

106 W. Broadway • Silver City, NM 88061 • 575-388-1811 • www.silvercitypalacehotel.com Visit Ol West Gallery & Mercantile next door.

LOCATION Silver City is located at the junction of US180 and NM90, on the Continental Divide and the southern edge of the Gila National Forest.

MORE INFORMATION Murray Ryan Visitor Center (575) 538-5555 • www.silvercitytourism.org Mimbres Region Arts Council (575) 538-2505 1(888) 758-7289 www.mimbresarts.org Grant County Business and Conference Center (575) 574-0070 • www.grantcountynm.com above: Tour of the Gila Downtown Criterium in historic Silver City.

SILVER CITY 81

Exclusively SILVER SILV L ER CITY LV

On The Wings Of Love II (From the Series “On Grief & Praise”) by Diana Ingalls Leyba Mixed media acrylic, 26” h x 26” w Leyba & Ingalls ARTS carries the finest in art supplies, framing, and art for the discriminating collector.

Somewhere Near Buckhorn

by Victoria Chick, Acrylic on canvas, 24"h x 24"w Contemporary figurative paintings and monoprints focused on southwest landscapes and animal subjects.

Leyba & Ingalls ARTS 315 N. Bullard St. • Silver City, NM 88061 575.388.5725 • LeybaIngallsArts.com

Fall Colors

by Joseph Wade Oil on canvas, 48" h x 60" w Fine art gallery features a large selection of fine art, bronze and wooden sculpture, print-making, and custom picture framing.

JW Art Gallery 99 Cortez Ave. Hurley, NM 88043 575.537.0300 • NewMexicoWade.gallery

Colored Wall

by Christopher Saxman Fine Art Abstract Photography. Contemporary gallery located in beautiful Fierro Canyon specializing in fine art abstract photography and more.

Fierro Canyon Gallery 4 Hermosa St. • Hanover, NM 88041 575.537.3262 • FierroCanyonGallery.com

82 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Victoria Chick Cow Trail Art Studio 119 Cow Trail • Arenas Valley Open Mondays, Noon-3pm or by appointment 760.533.1897 VictoriaChick.com

Desert Ambiance

by Molly Ramolla, Wax casein tempera on canvas. Contemporary fine art, sculpture and crafts. Specializing in wax casein tempera, egg tempera and watercolor.

Molly Ramolla Gallery 203 N. Bullard St. • Silver City, NM 88061 575.538.5538 • RamollaArt.com

Acoma Parrot Vessel

by Turid Petersen, Oil on linen Contemporary gallery featuring representational and abstract painting, photography, ceramics, metal and stone sculpture, and fine art jewelry.

Seedboat Center for the Arts 214 W. Yankie St. • Silver City, NM 88061 575.534.1136 • SeedboatGallery.com

Night Shaman

by Mark Bowen Patinated steel plate 61"h x 26"w Local art, pottery, outdoor metal sculpture, jewelry, and ethnic clothing and accessories

The Raven’s Nest Boutique & Gallery 201 N. Bullard St. Silver City, NM 88061 575.534.9323 silvercitygalleries.com

Silver City Fiber Arts Festival July 17th and 18th, 2015 Sponsored by the Southwest Women's Fiber Arts Collective Festival features: Exhibits, Vendors of Fine Fiber Art, and Demos

Silver City Fiber Arts Festival Grant County Conference Center 3013 Hwy 180 East • Silver City, NM 575.538.5733 • FiberArtsCollective.org Paid for by Silver City Lodger's Tax

EXCLUSIVELY SILVER CITY 83

City& of Rocks DEMING

Rockhound

Pancho Villa State Parks

"Plentiful sunshine and gorgeous geodes"

photo by Karen and Brad Emerson@flickr.com

Deming and Luna County have bragging rights to mild weather and lots of sunshine. Outdoor enthusiasts enj enjoy n oy a list of activities that includes golf,f,f hiking, rock hounding, birding and the Great American Duck nj Race. As the region with the nation’ nation’s n s most abundant sunlight, the county has also become a showplace fo n’ fforr renewable energy – solar f rm for fa f r producing the next generation of fuel fo f el oil. fu oil solar, wind and an impressive algae farm Savvy gem and mineral collectors are well aware of Rockhound State Park, the local rock shops and related events. The park offers a visitor center and a wide range of amenities for campers, hikers and birders as well as a botanical and native pollinator garden. Spring Canyon, a secluded day use area where the birding is said to be especially good, is an extension of Rockhound. Two other popular state parks include historic Pancho Villa State Park near the Mexican border and City of Rocks, a short drive north.

Visitors can tour New Mexico’s largest vineyards and premier wineries in Deming, and enjoy low-impact aerobic activity on a walking tour of the historic downtown district filled with galleries, antique shops, coffee shops, an impressive museum and friendly people.

this page: City of Rocks State Park north of Deming includes camp and picnic sites. Inset: Collect semi-precious stones at Rockhound State Park south of Deming. The visitor center for Rockhound and Spring Canyon State Parks explains the geologic history of the region and provides a glimpse into the desert animal and plant life.

84 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

LUNA COUNTY EVENTS Mar Camp Furlong Day at Pancho Villa M State Park in Columbus. 575-531-2711 Rockhound Roundup. 575-543-8915 A Aug Great American Duck Race.

888-345-1125 www.demingduckrace.com O Oct St. Clair Wine Festival. 575-546-1179 www.StClairVineyards.com Dec Christmas Light Parade in downtown Deming. 575-546-2674 Holiday Lights at Rockhound State Park.

575-546-6182

ATTRACTIONS City of Rocks State Park. Rock formations formed over 34 million years ago during a volcanic eruption. Overnight campsites; visitor center; botanical garden; wildlife; hiking; and more.

Located 30 miles NW of Deming on US 180 and NM 61. 575-536-2800 Deming Luna Mimbres Museum. Minerals, gems, frontier military history and Mimbres exhibits. 301 S. Silver. 575-546-2382. www.DemingLunaMimbresMuseum.com Luna Rossa Winery. 575-544-1160. www.LunaRossaWinery.com Rockhound State Park. Collect up to 15 lbs of rocks. The 250-acre park has picnic facilities; over-night camping; hiking trails; wildlife; and exhibits on local history of Buffalo Soldiers, Apache Indians and more. 14 miles southeast of Deming.

575-546-6182 Spring Canyon State Park. Realize a serene beauty and complete sense of isolation. Picnicking facilities. Ibex, wild goats from Iran, may be encountered. 575-546-6182 www.cityofdeming.org St. Clair Winery & Visitor Center. 575-5461179 www.stclairvineyards.com Pancho Villa State Park. Located on the site of old Camp Furlong where Villa raided the U.S. This 61-acre park offers a massive desert botanical garden, camping and museum/visitor center.

575-531-2711 U.S. and Mexico Port of Entry. 24-hour crossing Columbus/Palomas. 3 mi. south of Columbus. 575-531-2686 Publisher’s Note: Documents are required for returning to the United States. Check with U.S. Customs before leaving the U.S. All items purchased in Mexico must be declared when returning to the U.S. and Mexican law strictly forbids carrying guns or ammunition into Mexico.

LOCATION Deming is located at the junction of Interstate 10, US180 and NM11, next to Rockhound State Park and 34 miles north of the U.S. border with Mexico.

MORE INFORMATION Deming Visitor Center 575-567-1962 www.exploredeming.com demingvisitor@gmail.com

APPETIZERS • SOUPS & SALADS • ENTREES • WINGS & TENDERS BURGERS & SANDWICHES • KIDS MENU • DESSERTS • FULL BAR • PACKAGE LIQUOR

M-S 11AM-12AM 1624 S. Columbus Rd SUN 12PM-12AM Deming, NM 88030

(575) 544-4003 www.YoyasBarAndGrill.com YoyasBarGrill (575) 544-4005

RATED ONE OF THE

Best Hotels in New Mexico • Free Breakfast Buffet • Completely renovated with all new Serta Perfect Beds • Relax in the largest and nicest courtyard in town • Outdoor swimming pool • Kids 12 and under stay and eat free • Pet friendly • Suites with large jacuzzi tubs • Free High Speed Internet • Exterior room entrances

4600 E. Pine St. Deming, NM 88030

Free Hot Breakfast Buffet• Free Wi-Fi 36-inch Flat Screen TV Outdoor Swimming Pool • Fitness Center Refrigerator & Microwave Exterior Room Entrances • Pet Friendly Located Near Historic Old Mesilla

575-546-2661 Off I-10 @ Exit 85

www.QualityInn.com

Lazy Lizard Bar & Grill Serving a tasteful selection of great food in our comfortable dining room or relax and watch the game on three TVs while enjoying your favorite cocktail in the bar.

755 Avenida de Mesilla

Las Cruces, NM 88005 • Off I-10 @Exit 140

575.526.8311 www.DaysInn.com

PARKS, MONUMENTS & HISTORIC SITES DEMING 85

&

FORTS

Ghost

Towns WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE BURGESS

HIDALGO GO COUNTY EVENTS Jan Feb Jul

Aug Sep Oct Nov

Dec

Annual nnual Quilt Show. 575-542-9646 owboy Poetry Fiesta.

Cowboy 75-542-9258 575-542-9258 Lordsburg July 4th Activities & 5K Run. 575-542-3421 Rodeo 4th of July Celebration.

575-557-2295 Hidalgo County Fair, Rancho De Hidalgo, Parade & Carnival. 575-5429291 St Joseph's Church Bazaar. 575-5423268 Discover Hidalgo. 575-542-9864 Hidalgo Library Festival & Book Sale.

575-542-9646 Rodeo Mixed Nuts Arts & Crafts Show.

575-557-2336 Lordsburg Light Parade 575-5429864 Moonlight Madness 575-542-8844

Contact the Lordsburg - Hidalgo County Chamber to check on events and dates, as changes may occur throughout the year.

575-542-9864 • Fx: 575-542-9059 email: lordsburgcoc@aznex.net www.lordsburghidalgocounty.net • www.hidalgocounty.org

ATTRACTIONS Lordsburg Hidalgo Museum. This Old West museum documents the early history in which the nearby ghost towns took root. M-F 1-5 PM. 710 E 2nd St. 575-542-9086.

Rodeo. On the NM-AZ border in southern Hidalgo Co., Rodeo is a small art center with the Chiricahua Guild & Gallery located in an old Mission Church, and the Chiricahua Desert Museum with live reptile displays, a gift shop and gallery. The area offers facilities for travelers.

Redrock Wildlife Area. Located on the Gila River and is operated by the NM Game & Fish Dept. All animals are protected within the refuge even during hunting seasons. The main project at the reserve is the breeding and growth of the Desert Big-Horn Sheep.

Shakespeare Ghost Town. 2.5 miles southwest of Lordsburg. Open monthly for guided tours. Call for schedule. www.shakespeareghostown.com 575-542-9034 Peloncillo Mountains Wilderness. Ragged and rugged, the historic Butterfield Stage Route forms the southern boundary.

LOCATION Lordsburg is located at the junction of I-10, US70 and NM90 near the Butterfield Trail stage stop of Shakespeare.

MORE INFORMATION Lordsburg Hidalgo County Chamber of Commerce (575) 542-9864 www.LordsburgHidalgoCounty.net email: lordsburgcoc@aznex.net

this page: Periodic tours, reenactments and blacksmith demonstrations are highlights of Shakespeare ghost town by Lordsburg.

86 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

LORDSBURG

Shakespeare National Historic

Site

"Gunslingers, museums rare birds"

&

Just two miles south of Lordsburg sits Shakespeare ghost town, a National Historic Site once roamed by the likes of Billy the Kid, Curly Bill Brocius, Russian Bill, John Ringo, Sandy King, Jim Hughes and the Clantons. The 1800s mining camp and Butterfield Trail stage stop boldly clings to its rip-roaring past.

Offering remnants of the old west, the Lordsburg Hidalgo County Museum captures the city’s beginnings as a railroad, agriculture and mining town, highlights the landing of Charles Lindbergh during his cross-county flight and displays a nationally-recognized collection of prisoner of war memorabilia from a nearby World War II POW camp.

Southwest of Lordsburg in the heart of New Mexico’s boot heel, The Chiricahua Desert Museum features one of the largest collections of live endangered reptiles in existence, Tell Hicks Wildlife prints, artifacts and Native American jewelry, as well as their own ECO herpetological books and clothing. The village of Rodeo showcases the work of local artisans at McKasson’s Studio/Gallery and the Chiricahua Guild and Art Gallery in the old mission church.

North of Lordsburg, the Lower Gila Box Wilderness Study Area provides access to petroglyphs and some 170 species of birds.

• • • • • • •

Beautiful Landscapes Gorgeous Weather Historic Ghost Towns Art Communities Year-Round Activities Photo Opportunities Birding Habitats

For more information, contact: Lordsburg - Hidalgo County Chamber of Commerce 575-542-9864 lordsburgcoc@aznex.net 206 Main Street, Lordsburg, NM 88045

LordsburgHidalgoCounty.net

FORTS & GHOST TOWNS LORDSBURG 87

GLENWOOD

Mogollon Ghost Town

Custom Homes • Adobe Homes Metal Roofing • Metal Buildings

575.539.2584 •

Glenwood, NM

• 505.469.1561

Kenny Sutton, Licensed Contractor • Lic.#93981 kenny@tresamigosenterprises.com

&

The Catwalk National Recreation Trail

"One of the wildest mining towns in the west" The ghost town of Mogollon is a picturesque turn-of-the-last-century turn-off the-last-century mining fcamp with a transient population of three to six thousand miners. Due to its isolation, it had a reputation as one of the wildest mining towns in the west. A few buildings remain with a beautiful mountain setting. My Name is Nobody, starring Henry Fonda, was filmed there.

In the nearby county seat of Reserve, a bronze statue commemorates lawman Elfego Baca, who endured a 33-hour shootout in 1884 against incredible odds. The lawman emerged unscathed, earning himself a reputation as a force of reckoning.

Disney released a miniseries in 1957 entitled The Nine Lives of Elfego Baca and later it was edited into a movie called Elfego Baca: Six Gun Law. Three national forests share borders within this sparsely populated land of mountain lakes, hiking trails and campsites. Snow Lake on the north edge of the Gila Wilderness and Quemado Lake just south of US60 are excellent trout waters where only electric boat motors are allowed.

ATTRACTIONS

Angelwings

Coordinated Care LLC. & Angelwings Home Care

Serving Catron and Grant Counties.

Homemaker Services.

Glenwood Office: 575.539.2227 Silver City Office: 575.534.0311

Clairmont. Ghost town 19 miles northeast of Glenwood. 575-533-6922 Cooney’s Tomb. Alma, 7 miles north of Glenwood. Burial of soldiers killed in a conflict with Apaches.

Mogollon. Ghost town 13 miles northeast of Glenwood.

Snow Lake. In the Gila National Forest.

Camping and fishing. 47 miles northeast of Glenwood.

Quemado Lake. Camping, fishing 11 miles south of Quemado.

Whitewater Canyon. 5 miles east of Glenwood. 575-539-2711

EVENTS Mar Dutch Oven Cook Off in Glenwood Park. 575-539-2321 Jul July 4th Celebration in Glenwood.

575-539-2711 July 4th Celebration in Quemado and Reserve. 575-533-6968 Jul Frisco CowBelles’ Ann. Western Art Auction. Dance and Barbeque in Glenwood. 575-539-2711 Luna Pioneer Days & Rodeo. 575533-6968 Aug Catron County Fair and Rodeo in Reserve.

575-533-6968 Sep Pie Town Pie Festival. 575-7722525

Reserve is located at the junction of NM 12 and the San Francisco River.

Glenwood is located on US180 37 miles south of Reserve and 60 miles northwest of Silver City. this page: Numerous buildings remain in this high mountain ghost town that was a lively gold-mining camp accessed from Glenwood.

88 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

© Joseph Burgess

LOCATION

SILVER CITY

Pinos Altos

Trailof the Mountain Spirits National Scenic By-Way, Lake Roberts The Mimbres Valley

&

"Once a rip-roaring gold-mining camp" At 7,000 feet, the Trail of the Mountain Spirits National Scenic Byway passes through the quaint village of Pinos Altos, once a rip-roaring gold-mining camp and county seat, while just beyond, the peaceful Mimbres River Valley supports orchards and remnants of prehistoric cultures.

Geronimo, an Apache medicine man, was a fierce warrior hunted by the armies of both Mexico and the United States. A monument recognizing his birth near the headwaters of the Gila River north of Silver City was erected at the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument Visitor Center. Another describes his final surrender at Skeleton Canyon in New Mexico’s boot heel west of Rodeo.

The byway winds through rugged mountain forests, crisscrossing the Continental Divide where Geronimo undoubtedly honed his skills for hunting and avoiding capture. It skirts Lake Roberts, crosses the Gila and Mimbres Rivers and passes mission churches, a large open pit mine and Fort Bayard Historic District and National Cemetery that once supported Buffalo soldiers that protected against the illusive Indians.

Fabulous getaway nestled in the tall pines of Pinos Altos.

• Wedding Venue • Event Hall • Gift Shop • Crackling Fireplaces • Secluded Balconies • Relaxing Porches • Satellite TV • Hot Tub in Cabana • Cabins with kitchens are available.

Conveniently located just 7 miles north of Silver City on NM Hwy. 15.

575.388.4501 888.388.4515 Make reservations & view availability online

www.BearCreekCabins.com 88 Main Street • Pinos Altos, NM 88053

LOCATION Starting and finishing in Silver City, the trail loop heads north on NM15, east and south on NM35, west on NM152 and north on US180.

© Joseph Burgess

MORE INFORMATION Murray Ryan Visitor Center (575) 538-5555 www.southwestnewmexico.org Grant County Business and Conference Center (575) 574-0070 • www.grantcountynm.com this page: The Hearst Church in Pinos Altos was constructed by the famous San Francisco Newspaper family during the town’s gold-mining boom in the 1800s.

Manufactured Home Subdivision 5 acre lots with roads and power.

Hwy. 180 E. off XYZ Ranch Rd. Silver City, NM | 575-388-1951

FORTS & GHOST TOWNS PINOS ALTOS 89

Museums

© Joseph Burgess

OF SOUTHWEST NEW MEXICO

90 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Southwest New Mexico touts destination-worthy museums in Las Cruces, Silver City and Deming. Both the Western New Mexico University Museum in Silver City and the Deming Luna Mimbres Museum in Deming display renowned collections of the Mimbres Culture, known for its intriguing artwork on pottery. The Deming museum also provides magnificent displays ranging from a world-class collection of geodes to farm, ranch and early railroad and military equipment.

The Silver City Museum, housed in one of Silver City’s many historic Victorian homes, provides insight into the colorful past of the community and southwest New Mexico. The City of Las Cruces supports four museums in its historic downtown district including a Museum of Art, a Railroad Museum, the Museum of Nature & Science and the Branigan Cultural Center.

Wherever you travel in New Mexico, explore the history that generates a unique and memorable state of enchantment.

SILVER CITY Silver City Museum The restored 1881 Mansard/Italianate H.B. Ailman House serves as the showpiece – the single largest artifact - of the Silver City Museum. Housed in the original structure and the attached annex are some 50,000 objects relating to the peoples and history of southwest New Mexico. Interactive exhibits, including the Victorian parlor, help visitors visualize late nineteenth-century life in a fine Silver City home. Household and office furnishings are displayed as well as Native American artifacts. Items from area ranches and Grant County mines relate to the industries that formed the region’s foundation. The museum holds the keys for fully appreciating today’s community.

Facing the courtyard are interpretive window exhibits with maps and photos describing the city’s four historic districts. The museum store has gifts and free visitor maps.

Western New Mexico University Museum The largest, most comprehensive permanent exhibition of prehistoric Mimbres Mogollon pottery and artifacts in the world is featured at the Western New Mexico University Museum in Silver City. The latest and most prominent collection was scientifically researched and excavated over a thirty-year period

by Texas A&M archaeologist Photograph Courtesy of Western New Mexico University Dr. Harry J. Shafer and his Museum, The NAN Ranch Collection, students. It includes an Photo by Anthony Howell ©2013 exhibit of beer-making WNMU Museum. artifacts used by the prehistoric group.

Also displayed are prehistoric pottery and artifacts of the Upland Mogollon, Casas Grandes, Salado and Anasazi cultures. Historic Puebloan pottery, Navajo blankets, New Deal art and contemporary art by local artists are scattered throughout the mu-

Opposite: The Silver City Museum is housed in the H. B. Ailman home built in the late 1800s. above: Style III, Classic Mimbres Black-on-white flowerpot form bowl with differing geometric designs on the interior and exterior, an Early Style II Black-on-white bowl with a dragonfly with Tlaloc eyes, and a textured Mimbres brownware mug.

MUSEUMS SILVER CITY 91

seum. The reproduction of an assayer’s office, photography and artifacts present a brief history of mining in the area.

The development of the school from an 1893 territorial normal school to a modern university is part of the permanent display.

The townspeople and statesmen behind its formation are highlighted.

LAS CRUCES Museums of Las Cruces The City of Las Cruces and its affiliated Main Street program have reenergized its historic downtown district. Along with street and landscape improvements and new city and federal buildings, thriving galleries, performing arts venues and a museum cluster have generated an exciting sector for dining and shopping.

Three of the City’s four museums are located in this rejuvenated corridor. The Museum of Art displays contemporary art and serves as a center for artist lectures, classes and family activities. The Branigan Cultural Center, listed in the National Register of Historic Places, provides artistic, cultural and historic exhibits and programs and touts a mural by the late Tom Lea. The Museum of Nature & Science includes live animals, prehistoric trackways, a magic planet display and programs for all ages.

Only a few blocks to the west, the Railroad Museum located in the 1910 Santa Fe Railroad Depot includes an HO scale model train layout and an 1890s wooden caboose. Its annual Railroad Days are special for any railroad enthusiast and of course an adventure for the young at heart.

At the intersection of Interstate Highways 10 and 25, you’ll want to pull over for an interlude of history, culture, arts and the sciences in the City of Crosses.

DEMING Deming Luna Mimbres Museum

“NOT JUST A PLACE...BUT A DESTINATION” One of the Largest Mimbres Pottery Exhibits Gem & Mineral Ranch & Farm • Doll Room Military Room • China & Glassware Main Street • Gift Shop

www.ExploreDeming.com

575-546-2382 • 301 S. SILVER AVE. • DEMING, NM W W W. L U N A C O U N T Y H I S T O R I C A L S O C I E T Y. C O M

92 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com

Housed in the old National Guard Armory and its annexes, the Deming Luna Mimbres Museum displays exhibits including period rooms of various ethnic groups and professions, antique machines and tools, vehicles, farm equipment, a fire engine, railroad and war memorabilia, toys, dolls, clothes, a major display of gems, minerals and geodes, Indian artifacts and significant collections of Mimbres pottery.

The beautifully dressed and well-documented doll collection now includes over a thousand dolls and related toys from around the world and dating back as far as 1796. Note a historic sequence in the collection of over 2,000 colorful bottles and view an impressive collection of over 2,000 bells. Donated quilts and laces round out the presentations. There is truly something for everyone in this spacious and well-organized museum.

Alamogordo

Museums & Cultural Centers

w Mexico Mex Me exi xic ico Museum M seum of Space Mu S ace History Sp His Hi isto t ry r New N Ne Hwy. 2001 • 575-437-2840 nmspacemuseum.org Space age developments and travel on display. liliv ive ver Lee Ra R nch Ho H u e us Oliver O Ol Ranch House 409 Dog Canyon Rd. • 575-437-8284 Pioneer Oliver Lee’s restored homestead.

Tra Tr rain i s Museum M seum & Train Mu Tra Tr rain i Ri R ide id de TToyy Trains To Ride N. White Sands Blvd • 575-888-207-3564 toyT ains of every size.

Tr traindepot.homestead.com Trains

Albuquerque l uquerq lb r ue Museum rq M seum of Art Mu r and History rt His Hi isto t ry r Alb Albuquerque 19th & Mountain Rd. NW 505-243-7255 cabq.gov/museum. Traditional and contemporary art of New Mexico and sculpture garden.

Anderson-Abruzzo Albuquerque International Balloon Museum 9201 Balloon Museum Dr. NE 505-880-0500 balloonmuseum.com. Balloon history exhibits, educational programs, library and shop. ¡explora! Science Center and Children’s Museum of Albuquerque 1701 Mountain Road NW • 505-224-8300 explora.us. Hands-on interactive museum.

Indian Pueblo Cultural Center 2401 12th St. NW • 866-855-7902 indianpueblo.org • Pueblo history blended with work by contemporary artists and craftsmen.

Lodestar Astronomy Planetarium 1801 Mountain Rd NW • 505-841-2800. Digital planetarium, motion simulator and observatory.

Maxwell Museum of Anthropology UNM 1 University of New Mexico. 505-277-4405 unm.edu/~maxwell. Collections focusing on southwest native cultures.

National Museum of Nuclear Science & History 601 Eubank SE • 505-245-2137 The Manhattan Project includes exhibits about the atomic bomb.

National Hispanic Cultural Center of NM 1701 4th Street SW•505-246-2261 nhccnm.org Exhibitions, performances and research.

NM Museum of Natural History & Science 1801 Mt. Rd. NW •841-2800 nmnaturalhistory.org Experimental museum with active volcano, dinosaurs and big screen theater.

Rio Grande Nature Center 2901Candelaria Rd. NW • 505-344-7240 rgnc.org The flora, fauna, geology and ecology of the Rio Grande Valley.

Tinkertown Museum 121 Sandia Crest Rd. Sandia Park 505-281-5233 tinkertown.com. The Old West and other collections shown in miniature.

University Art Museum and Jonson Gallery UNM •1 University of New Mexico 505-2774001 unmartmuseum.unm.edu. Collections of world re-nowned European and American art.

Unser Racing Museum 1776 Montano Rd. NW • 505-341-1776 unserracingmuseum.com Four generations of Unsers and racecars.

Belen

Cimarron

l Mill ld Mil Mi ill ll Museum M seum NM21 • 505-376-2913 ColMu Old lections covering the region’s history.

Cloudcroft r mento ra t Mountains to M unta Mo t in ta i s Historical His Hi isto t ri ric ical Mu M seum Sacra Sacramento Museum P ioneer Vi io V ililllla lage 1000 Hwy. 82 •575-682-2932 & Pi Pioneer Village • 575-682-2932 cloudcroftmuseum.com. History of the community from the Old West era to present day.

Deming Demin Deming/Luna i g/ in g/L /Luna Mimbres Mim Mi imbre r s Mu re M Museum seum 301 S. Silver • 575-546-2382 deminglunamimbresmuseum.com Collections of Mimbres pottery and more.

Espanola Bond House Museum 710 Bond St. • 505-747-8535 Collections focus on art and history of the area.

Farmington Farmington Museum 3041 E. Main St • 505-599-1174 farmingtonmuseum.org. Prehistory of the region and a history of the Navajo and of Farmington.

Gallup

La Mesilla Gadsden Museum 1875 Boutz Rd. • 575-526-6293. Collections of Spanish and Indian artifacts.

Las Cruces Branigan Cultural Center 501 North Main St. • 575-541-2154 las-cruces.org/museums. Museum features exhibits of the region’s art and history.

Farm and Ranch Heritage Museum 4100 Dripping Springs Rd. • 575-522-4100 nmfarmandranchmuseum.org. Historical farm and ranch collections featured.

Las Cruces Museum of Art 491 North Main St. • 575-541-2137 las-cruces.org/museums. Contemporary art exhibitions, public and educational activities.

Las Cruces Museum of Nature & Science 411 N. Main St. • 575-522-3120 las-cruces.org/museums. Southwest natural history.

Las Cruces Railroad Museum 351 N. Mesilla St. • 575-647-4480 las-cruces.org/ museums. Local history & railroadiana.

NMSU Museum Kent Hall • 575-646-3739 nmsu.edu/~museumCollections of gems, fossils and technological influences of the West.

Las Vegas City of Las Vegas Museum & Rough Rider Memorial 727 Grand Ave. • 505-454-1401 lasvegasmuseum.org. History of Northeast NM.

Lordsburg

Chimayõ Chimayõ C Ch i ayõ im y Museum13 yõ M seum13 Plaza del Cerrõ Mu 505-376-2913chimayomuseum.org History and culture of Chimayó and its surrounding communities.

Historic Lincoln-Division of Hubbard Museum US 380 • 575-653-4025 Building Tours, Billy the Kid exhibit.

Lordsburg Hidalgo Museum 575-542-9086 • 710 East 2nd St.. Old West museum documents early history of the nearby ghost towns of Shakespeare and Steins.

Los Alamos Bandelier National Monument 505-672-3861 • nps.gov/ nps.gov/band. v band. Collection of v/ Pueblo culture from 1200 AD to present.

B Br Bradbury radb ra d ury r Scie ry Science i nce Mu ie M Museum seum 15th & Central. • 505-667-4444 lanl.gov/ lanl.gov/muv muv/ seum • Science exhibits including WWII Project Y Y. Los Ala Alamos l mos Hi la H Historical isto is t ri ric ical Mu M Museum useum us u um 1921 Juniper St. • 505-662-6272 losalamoshistory.org. History of Los Alamos.

Silver City

eh Cultural Cult ltu lt tura r l Center Cente t r te Poeh P Po 78 Cities of Gold Rd. • 505-455-3334 h D di d to the h culture l h poehcenter.com Dedicated off the Northern Pueblos.

Poeh Museum 78 Cities of Gold Rd. • 505-455-5041 poehmuseum.com History, culture & heritage of Pueblo people.

Portales

Socorro

Blackwater Draw Museum ENMU 1500 S. Ave. K • 575-562-1011 enmu.edu/services/museums. Museum focusing on archaeological finds in Blackwater Draw site.

International UFO Museum and Research Center 114 N. Main • 800-822-3545 roswellufomuseum.com UFO phenomenon.

Roswell Museum and Art Center 100 W. 11th St. • 575-624-6744 roswellmuseum.org Art and science exhibits including Goddard collection and Hurd/Wyeth art work.

NM Mining Museum100 N. Iron Ave. 800-748-2142 Collections devoted to mining.

t Fe ta F Ch C ild il ldr dre ren’s ’ Museum ’s M seum Mu Santa Children’s TTrail ail • 505-989-8359 1050 Old Pecos Tr YYouth uth museum with santafechildrensmuseum.org Yo focus on the humanities and science. eelwr wri wr rig ight Mu M seum of th tthee Ameri ric ri ican In IIn-W Wh Wheelwright Museum American ian 704 Camino Lejo • 505-982-4636 ia d di dian wheelwright.org. Collections of contemporary and historic Indian arts and crafts.

Silver S Si ilve il v r Ci C City ity it ty Mu M Museum seum 312 W. Broadway • 575-538-5921 silvercitymuseum.org Victorian era and frontier collections.

WNMU Museum WNMU Campus 1000 W. College 575-538-6386 • History of southwest New Mexico exhibiting the worlds’s largest collection of Mimbres pottery including the NAN Ranch collection.

Pojoaque Poj o oaque oj

Grants

Capitan

Carlsbad Museum and Art Center 418 W. W Fox•575-887-0276 Fox•575-887-0276 cityofcarlsbadnm.com Focus on geology, y history and art of the region. y,

Magdalena o Car Mu ox M seum Box Museum N. Main St. • 575-854-2261 Old photographs and objects of frontier life.

Raton

Lincoln

Carlsbad

l Coal Mi ld M ine Mu in M seum Old Mine Museum 2814 Hwy 14 • 505-438-3780 turquoisetrail.org/oldcoalmine Includes an authentic coal mine shaft.

Red Rock Park & Museum Red Rock Park 505-722-3839 Displays of native artifacts & art.

Rex Museum 300 W. Historic Rt. 66 Ave. 505-863-1363 History of Gallup’s railroads and mines.

Harvey House Museum 104 N. First Street • 505-861-0581. Harvey Girls, Harvey Houses; Santa Fe Railway; Valencia County History; Model Railroad Display, Monthly Exhibits.

Smokey Bear Museum 102 Smokey Bear Blvd • 575-354-2298 A museum devoted to Forest Service fire prevention campaign featuring Smokey Bear.

Madrid

The Raton Museum 108 S. Secont St. • 575-445-8979 Features the history of the region.

Roswell

Ruidoso Hubbard Museum of the American West 841 Hwy. 70 E. • 575-378-4142 hubbardmuseum.org. Devoted to history of the equine & Dave McGary sculpture.

Santa Fe El Rancho de las Golondrinas 334 Los Pinos Rd. • 505-471-2261 golondrinas.org A historical physical depiction of Colonial New Mexico.

The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum 217 Johnson St. • 505-946-1000 okeeffemuseum.org The world’s largest collection of art work by legendary artist Georgia O’Keeffe.

Museum of Spanish Colonial Art 750 Camino Lejo 505-982-2226 spanishcolonial.org Showcase of rich Spanish traditions.

The Indian Arts Research Center 660 Garcia St. • 505-954-7205 Exhibits and collections of Indian art.

Institute of American Indian Arts 83 Avan Nu Po Rd. • 505-424-2300 iaia.edu • Museum houses the national collection of contemporary Native American art.

Museum of Fine Arts 107 W. Palace Ave. • 505-476-5072 nmartmuseum.org • Exhibits of Southwest artists and Taos and Santa Fe Masters.

Museum of Indian Arts and Culture 710 Camino Lejo • 505-476-1250 indianartsandculture.org Indian artifacts.

Museum of International Folk Art 706 Camino Lejo • 505-476-1200 internationalfolkart.org. Collections and exhibits from around the world.100+ countries.

New Mexico History Museum 120 Lincoln Ave. • 505-476-5100 nmhistorymuseum.org • Grand Opening Memorial Day Weekend 2009. A state-of-the-art, immersive interactive exhibition set to cast new light on how history can be learned.

P Pa Palace l ce of th la tthee Gove Governors v rn ve r ors r rs 105 W. Palace Av A Ave. e. • 505-476-5100 palaceofthegovernors.org Historic Historic landmark holds the State’s history museum, library and photo archives.

Mineralogical Museum NM Institute of Mining and Technology 801 Leroy Place 575-835-5420 Fossils & mineral specimens.

Taos E.L. Blumenschein Home & Museum 222 Ledoux St. • 575-758-0505 The Southwest and European traditions and cultures are seen as having melded into one.

Governor Bent Home & Museum 117 A Bent St.• 575-758-2376. Museum and home of New Mexico’s first territorial governor.

Harwood Museum of Art 238 Ledoux St. • 575-758-9826 harwoodmuseum.org. Taos history with emphasis on Indian pueblos and Spanish culture.

Kit Carson Home & Museum 113 Kit Carson Rd. • 575-758-4945 kitcarsonhome.com. Mountain man Kit Carson’s artifacts and other frontier exhibits.

La Hacienda De Los Martinez 708 Hacienda Rd. • 575-758-0505. Tour a large hacienda which portrays Spanish colonial life.

Millicent Rogers Museum 1504 Millicent Rogers Rd. • 575-758-2462 millicentrogers.org. Collections include hispanic art and Indian exhibits. Also featured is the Maria Martinez collection.

Taos Art Museum & Fechin House 227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte • 575-758-2690 taosartmuseum.org. Home of Russian artist. Furniture and folk art displayed.

Toadlena Two Grey Hills Museum Toadlena Trading Post • 505-789-3267.

Includes the most famous of the Navajo rugs.

Truth or Consequences Geronimo Springs Museum 211 Main St. • 575-894-6600 geronimospringsmuseum.com. World-class collection of prehistoric Mimbres pottery, Apache, Hispanic, military, mining, exhibits.

Tucumcari Tucumcari Historical Museum 416 S. Adams St.• 575-461-4201. Community history with collections of Indian artifacts.

Zuni A:shiwi A:wan Museum and Heritage Center 02E Ojo Caliente Rd. • 505-782-4403 ashiwi-museum.org. Community directed Eco-Museum and Heritage Center.

Ganado, AZ Hubbell Trading Post Hwy 264 • 928-755-3475. Oldest operating TTrading Tr ading Post on the Navajo Nation.

Window Rock, AZ TThee Na Th N Navajo vaj va ajo jo Na N Nation tio ti ion Mu M Museum seum Hwy 264 & Loop Rd. • 928-871-7941 navajonationmuseum.org. History, Culture and exhibitions of the Four Corners Region.

El Paso, TX T IInsights In sig i hts ig t Science ts Scie i nce Mu ie M Museum seum 505 N. Santa Fe • 915-534-0000 insightselpaso.org Explorations in science.

E Pa El P Paso so Mu M Museum seum of Art r rt 1 Arts Festival Plaza • 915-532-1707 elpasoartmuseum.org. Houses a permanent collection of over 5,000 works of art.

MUSEUMS 93

LasCruces "A strategic business retirement choice."

&

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE BURGESS

ATTRACTIONS Branigan Cultural Center & Art Museum. History exhibits, art & culture. 500 N. Water St. 575-541-2155. www.las-cruces.org/museums Chihuahuan Desert Nature Park. Geological formations, desert flora, hiking trail and archaeology.

575-524-3334. www.cdnp.org Fort Selden. An 1800s cavalry fort that was utilized by the Buffalo Soldiers. Visitor center and living history demonstrations. 575-526-8911 Leasburg Dam State Park. Fishing, campsites and swimming. 19 miles northwest of Las Cruces.

575-524-4068 Mesilla Mercado. Local produce & crafts. Every Thurs. & Sun. on Mesilla Plaza. 524-3262 New Mexico Farm & Ranch Heritage Museum.

3000 years of New Mexico agricultural history. 4100 Dripping Springs Rd. 575-522-4100 www.frhm.org San Albino Basilica. Mission church built 1907. Old Mesilla Plaza. 575-526-9349

DONA ANA COUNTY EVENTS Apr

Annual Border Book Festival.

575-523-3988 www.borderbookfestival.org May Cinco de Mayo Fiesta in Mesilla. www.mesillanm.gov 575-522-4100 Aug New Mexico Wine Harvest Festival. www.wineharvestfestival.com 575-522-1232 Hatch Chile Festival. 575-267-5050 www.hatchchilefest.com Sep Diez y Seis de Septiembre Fiesta in Mesilla. 575-524-3262 www.mesillanm.org The Whole Enchilada Fiesta. www.enchiladafiesta.com 575-526-1938 Oct So. New Mexico State Fair & Rodeo 575-524-8602 www.snmstatefairgrounds.net Dia de los Muertos at the Plaza 575-647-2639 www.mesillanm.gov Nov Renaissance Artsfaire.

575-523-6403 www.las-cruces-arts.org Int’l Mariachi Conference & Concert.

575-525-1735 www.lascrucesmariachi.org Dec Christmas Carols & Luminarias on the Plaza in Mesilla. 575-524-3262 www.mesillanm.gov

LOCATION Las Cruces and Old Mesilla straddle the Rio Grande at the junction of I-10 and I-25, 46 miles north of El Paso.

MORE INFORMATION Las Cruces Convention and Visitors Bureau 575-541-2444 www.las-cruces-newmexico.org

2015 NEW TRAVELER MEXICO TRAVELER 94 NEW MEXICO www.ziapublishing.com

this page: Sunrise over the jagged 500,000-acre Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument overshadows the City of Las Cruces and Town of Mesilla located at the foot of the range. The area offers a wide selection of dining, shopping, museum hopping and hiking trails through the mountains and along the Rio Grande.

Las Cruces is one of the nation’s top communities for business and retirement because of its infrastructure, climate, a business-oriented New Mexico State University and proximity to strategic military bases and the El Paso international border complex. Visitor opportunities include museums, galleries, new and restored performing arts venues, a revitalized downtown main street district, a river walk ending at Mesilla Valley Bosque State Park and scenic hiking trails on both sides of the rugged Organ Mountains. The New Mexico Farm and Ranch Heritage Museum is an especially educational complex.

Bordering Las Cruces, the Town of Mesilla offers an escape from daily stress with a traditional Mexican plaza surrounded by Spanish territorial architecture and the towers of San Albino Basilica. The village provides excellent dining and one-of-a-kind shops and galleries. There are weekly performances of mariachi and ballet folklorico groups in the plaza during summer months. Mesilla was the regional headquarters for the Butterfield Stage and the site where Billy the Kid was sentenced to hang.

Area attractions include Fort Seldon State Monument and visitor center, White Sands National Monument, Aguirre Spring National Recreational Area, the White Sands Missile Park and Museum, Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument and Dripping Springs Natural Area.

SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO LAS CRUCES 95

Index of Advertisers Accommodations Bear Creek Motel & Cabins .www.bearcreekcabins.com . .89 Days Inn - Las Cruces . . . . .www.daysinn.com . . . . . . . 47,85 Eldorado Hotel & Spa . . .www.eldoradohotel.com . . . . . .3,47 Holiday Inn Express-Silver City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.hiexpress.com/silvercitynm . . . . . . . .77 Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town . . .www.hotelabq.com . . .3,47 Hotel Chimayó de Santa Fe . . .www.hotelchimayo.com . . .3,47 Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces . . www.hotelencanto.com . .3,47 Inn at Halona . . . . . . . . . www.halona.com . . . . . . . . . .47,64 Inn of the Governors . .www.innofthegovernors.com . . . .45,47 Nativo Lodge . . . . . . . www.nativolodge.com . . . . . . . . .3,47 Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ojospa.com . . . . . . . . . .47,.52,53 Palacio de Marquesa Taos . . .www.marquesataos.com . .3,47 Quality Inn-Deming . . . www.qualityinndeming.com . . .47,85 The Lodge at Santa Fe . . . . www.lodgeatsantafe.com . . . .3,47 Whitewater Motel . . . . .www.whitewatermotel.com . . . . . .88 Accommodations - Historic Hotel St. Francis . . . . . . www.hotelstfrancis.com . . . . . . .3,47 Inn at Halona . . . . . . . . . . www.halona.com . . . . . . . . . . .64 Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ojospa.com . . . . . . . . . . . . .47,.52,53 Palace Hotel, The . . . .www.silvercitypalacehotel.com . .46,81 Rancho de Chimayo Hacienda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ranchodechimayo.com . . . . . . . . .46,47 Art Galleries & Studios Beeman Jewelry Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.beemanjewelrydesign.com . . . . . . .C2,11 Fierro Canyon Gallery . . . .www.fierrocanyongallery.com . . .82 JW Art Gallery . . . . . . . . .www.jwartgallery.com . . . . . . . .82 Leyba & Ingalls ARTS . .www.leybaingallsarts.com . . . . . . .82 Mimbres Region Arts Council Gallery . . . . . .www.mimbresarts.org . .81 Molly Ramolla Gallery . . . .www.ramollaart.com . . . . . . . . .83 Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ojospa.com . . . . . . . . . .47,52,53 The Raven’s Nest . . . . . . .www.silvercityart.com . . . . . . . .83 Seedboat Center for the Arts . .www.seedboatgallery.com . .83 Southwest Women’s Fiber Arts Collective . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.fiberartscollective.org . . . . . . . . . .83 The Torres Gallery . . . . . . www.torresgallery.com . . . . . .2,11 Turquoise Village . . . . . .www.turquoisevillage.com . . . . . . .63 Victoria Chick . . . . . . . . .www.victoriachick.com . . . . . . . .82

Bar/Saloon/Lounge Agave Lounge . . . . . . . . .www.eldoradohotel.com . . . . . .3,47 Azul Nightclub & Lounge . . . www.hotelencanto.com . . . .3,47 Del Charro Saloon . . . .www.innofthegovernors.com . .37,45,47 Nativo Lobby Bar . . . . . . . www.nativolodge.com . . . . . . . .3,47 QBar . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.hotelabq.com . . . . . . . . . . .3,47 Santa Fe Low'n Slow Lowrider Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.hotelchimayo.com . . . . . . . . . . . . .3,47 Secreto Bar & Loggia . . .www.hotelstfrancis.com . . . . . .3,47 The Lodge at Santa Fe Hilltop Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.lodgeatsantafe.com . . . . . . . . . .3,47 Yoya’s Bar & Grill . . . . .www.yoyasbarandgrill.com . . . . .47,85

Gifts continued Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ojospa.com . . . . . . . . . . . . .47,.52,53 Silver City Museum Store . www.silvercitymuseum.org . .92,93 Super Salve . . . . . . . . . . . www.supersalve.com . . . . . . . .88 The Torres Gallery . . . . . . www.torresgallery.com . . . . . .2,11 Home Health Services Angelwings Coordinated Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Home Decor & Products Mule Creek Adobe . . . .www.mulecreekadobe.com . . . . . .80 Pandora’s . . . . . . . . . . .www.pandorasantafe.com . . . . . . .13

Bed & Breakfast Cimarron Rose . . . . . . . www.cimarronrose.com . . . . .47,64 Inn at Halona . . . . . . . . . . . www.halona.com . . . . . . . .47,64 Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ojospa.com . . . . . . . . . .47,.52,53 Rancho de Chimayo Hacienda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ranchodechimayo.com . . . . . . .46,47

Jewelry Beeman Jewelry Design. www.beemanjewelrydesign.com. C2,11 Ellis Tanner Trading Company . . . www.etanner.com . . .11,61 Inn at Halona . . . . . . . . . . . www.halona.com . . . . . . . . . .64 Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. . . . www.joemilo.com . . . .65 Keshi-The Zuni Connection . . . . . .www.keshi.com . . . . .10,16,64 Malouf on the Plaza . . . . . . . .www.maloufontheplaza.com . . . .17 Carvings Richardson’s Trading & Cash Pawn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Zuni Craftsmen Cooperative . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . .63 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.richardsontrading.com . . . . . . . .10,61 Rocki Gorman . . . . . . . . . . .rockigorman.com . . . . . . . . . . . .1,11 Santa Fe Goldworks . . . . .www.santafegoldworks.com . . . .12 Chocolatiers The Torres Gallery . . . . . . www.torresgallery.com . . . . . . .11, Curious Kumquat, The .www.curiouskumquat.com .20,42,43,47 Turquoise Village . . . . . .www.turquoisevillage.com . . . . . . .63 Diane’s Restaurant . . . . .www.dianesrestaurant.com .47,78,80 Zuni Craftsmen Cooperative . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . .63 Hester House Candy & Gifts, The . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80

Museums Branigan Cultural Center . .www.las-cruces.org/museums .93,97 Deming Luna Mimbres Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.lunacountyhistoricalsociety.com . . . . .92,93 Las Cruces Museum of Art . .www.las-cruces.org/museums .93,97 Las Cruces Museums . . . .www.lascruces.org/museums .93,97 Lordsburg-Hidalgo County Museum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.lordsburghidalgocounty.net . . . .87,93 Museum of Nature & Science . .www.las-cruces.org/museums .93,97 Clothing NM Museum of Space History . . . www.alamogordo.com . . .72,93 Handwoven Originals . . . .www.handwovenoriginals.com . . .12,16 Railroad Museum . . . .www.las-cruces.org/museums . . .93,97 Malouf on the Plaza . . . . . .www.maloufontheplaza.com . . . . . .17 Silver City Museum . . . www.silvercitymuseum.org . . .92,93 Rocki Gorman . . . . . . . . . . . . . .rockigorman.com . . . . . . . . .1,11 A:Shiwi A:Wan Museum and Heritage Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . . . . . . . .63,93 WNMU Museum . . . . .www.wnmumuseum.org . . . . . . .92,93 Contractor Cities, Chambers & Counties City of Alamogordo . . . . .www.alamorgordo.com . . . . .73,C4 Grant County Tourism . . .www.southwestnewmexico.org . . 77 Lordsburg-Hidalgo County Chamber of Commerce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.lordsburghidalgocounty.net . . . . . . . . .87 Silver City Grant County Chamber of Commerce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.silvercity.org . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77

Restaurants continued Chu Chu’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47,64 Compound Restaurant, The . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.compountrestaurant.com . . . . . .21,47 Cowgirl Santa Fe . . . . . .www.cowgirlsantafe.com . . .32,33,47 Cristobal’s . . . . . . . . . . . www.hotelabq.com . . . . . . . . . .3,47 Curious Kumquat, The . .www.curiouskumquat.com .20,42,43,47 Del Charro Saloon . . . . . .www.delcharro.com . . . . . .37,45,47 Diane’s Restaurant . . .www.dianesrestaurant.com . . .47,78,80 Dinner For Two . . . . . . .www.dinnerfortwonm.com . . . . . . .22,47 Dr. Field Goods . . . . . . . . .www.drfieldgoods.com . . . . . . . . .3947 Elevation Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38,47 Gardunos Restaurant & Cantina . www.hotelencanto.com . . . .3,47 India House . . . . . . . . . .www.indiahousenm.com . . . . .31,47 Jambo Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . .www.jambocafe.net . . . . . . .36,47 Joe’s Dining . . . . . . . . . . .www.joesdining.com . . . . . .38,47 Joseph’s Culinary Pub . . .www.josephsofsantafe.com . .20,47 L’Oliver . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.loliversantafe.com . . . . .26,47 Lazy Lizard Bar & Grill . www.qualityinndeming.com . . .47,85 Los Cuates New Mexican Restaurant . www.lodgeatsantafe.com .3,47 Masa Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30,47 Mu Du Noodles . . . . . . . .www.mudunoodles.com . . . .31,47 Old House Restaurant . . . . . . .www.eldoradohotel.com . . . . . . . . .3,47 Osteria D’Assisi . . . . . . . . . . . . www.osteriadassisi.com . . . . . . . .23,47 Pizzeria da Lino . . . . . . . . . . . www.pizzeriadalino.com . . . . . . .38,47 Pranzo Italian Grill . . . . .www.pranzosantafe.com . . .18,19,47 Radish & Rye . . .www.radishandrye.com . . . .C1,4,5,40,41,47 Rancho de Chimayo . . www.ranchodechimayo.com . . . .47,51 Shohko Cafe . . . . . . . . . .www.shohkocafe.com . . . . . .29,47 Spirit Wind Café . . . . . . . www.nativolodge.com . . . . . . .3,47 Swiss Bistro and Bakery. .www.swissbakerysantafe.com .26,47 Thai Vegan . . . . . . . . . . .www.thaivegannm.com . . . . .30,37 Tabla de Los Santos . . . . www.hotelstfrancis.com . . . . . .3,47 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar . . .www.315santafe.com . . . .25,47 Tia’s Cocina . . . . . . . . . . www.hotelchimayo.com . . . . . .3,47 Yoya’s Bar & Grill . . . . . .www.yoyasbarandgrill.com . . .47,85 Zia Diner . . . . . . . . .www.ziadiner.com . . . . . . . . . .35,47 Rugs & Weaving Ellis Tanner Trading Company . . www.etanner.com . . . .10,59 Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. . .www.joemilo.com . .12,65 Malouf on the Plaza . . . . .www.maloufontheplaza.com . . . . . . .17 Richardson’s Trading & Cash Pawn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.richardsontrading.com . . . . .10,61

Mule Creek Adobe . . . .www.mulecreekadobe.com . . . . . .80 Schools Tres Amigos Enterprises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 National Scenic Byways Santa Fe Culinary Academy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Artist Trail of the Mountain Spirits National Scenic Byway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.santafeculinaryacademy.com . . . . . . . . . .39 Mark Bowen . . . . . . . . . . .www.silvercityart.com . . . . . . . .83 Convention & Meeting Centers . . . . . . . . . . . www.southwestnewmexico.org . . . . . . . 76,89 Victoria Chick . . . . . . . . .www.victoriachick.com . . . . . . . .82 Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town . www.hotelabq.com . . . .3,47 Spas & Salons Turid Petersen . . . . . . .www.seedboatgallery.com . . . . . . .83 Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces . . www.hotelencanto.com . .3,47 Pottery Nidah Spa . . . . . .www.eldoradohotel.com . . . . . . . . . . . . .3,47 Molly Ramolla . . . . . . . . .www.ramollaart.com . . . . . . . . .83 Hotel St. Francis . . . . . . . www.hotelstfrancis.com . . . . . .3,47 Ellis Tanner Trading Company . . . .www.etanner.com . . .10,59 Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Robert Rivera . . . . . . . . . www.torresgallery.com . . . . . .2,11 The Lodge at Santa Fe . . . . www.lodgeatsantafe.com . . .3,47 Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. . . www.joemilo.com . .12,65 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ojospa.com . . . . . . . . . . . .47,.52,53 Christopher Saxman . . . .www.fierrocanyongallery.com . . .82 Keshi-The Zuni Connection . . . . . . . .www.keshi.com . . .10,16,64 Joseph Wade . . . . . . . . . .www.jwartgallery.com . . . . . . . .82 Richardson’s Trading & Cash Pawn .richardsontrading.com .10,61 Yellowman . . . . . . . . . . . www.torresgallery.com . . . . . .2,11 Dead Pawn Trading Company Ellis Tanner Trading Company . . www.etanner.com . . . .10,59 Turquoise Village . . . . . .www.turquoisevillage.com . . . . . .63, Ellis Tanner Trading Company . . . www.etanner.com . . .10,59 Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. . . www.joemilo.com . . .12,65 Attractions/Events Inn at Halona . . . . . . . . . . . www.halona.com . . . . . . . .47,64 Pueblo/Tribe A:Shiwi A:Wan Museum and Heritage Center . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. www.joemilo.com . . .12,65 Pueblo of Zuni . . . . . . . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . . . . . .63 Richardson’s Trading & Cash Pawn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . . . . . . .63,93 Entertainment City of Rocks State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mimbres Region Arts Council. . .www.mimbresarts.org . . . .81 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.richardsontrading.com . . . . . . . . .10,61 . . . . . . . . . . .www.southwestnewmexico.org . . . . . . .84 Real Estate/Developments Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

United Country Mimbres Realty .www.mimbresrealty.com . .81 Visitor & Travel Center . . . . . . . . . .www.southwestnewmexico.org . . . . . . . . 76.77 Fetishes XYZ Ranch Estates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Zuni Visitor and Arts Center . . .www.zunitourism.com . . . . .63 Gila National Forest . .www.southwestnewmexico.org . .76,77 Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. www.joemilo.com . . . . .12,65 Keshi-The Zuni Connection . . . . . . .www.keshi.com . . . . .10,16,64 New Mexico Museum of Space History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Weddings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.alamogordo.com . . . . . . . . . . . . .72,73 Turquoise Village . . . . . .www.turquoisevillage.com . . . . . . .63 Restaurants Artisan Restaurant . . . . . . . . www.ojospa.com . . . . .47,.52,53 Hotel Albuquerque . . . . . www.hotelabq.comHotel . . . . . .3,47 Old Zuni MIssion . . . . . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . . .62,63 Bonsai Asian Tacos,The . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30,37 Eldorado Hotel & Spa . . .www.eldoradohotel.com . . . . . .3,47 Shakespeare Ghost Town . .www.lordsburghidalgocounty.net . 87 Gifts Silver City Fiber Arts Festival .www.fiberartscollective.org . .83 Beeman Jewelry Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bouche French Bistro . . . .www.bouchebistro.com . . . . . .27,47 Encanto de Las Cruces . .www.hotelencanto.com . . . . . .3,47 Trail of the Mountain Spirits National Scenic Byway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.beemanjewelrydesign.com . . . . . . .C2,11 Cafe Plazuela & Cantina . . . . . www.hotelabq.com . . . . . .3,47 Hotel St. Francis . . . . . . . www.hotelstfrancis.com . . . . . .3,47 . . . . . . . . . . . . www.southwestnewmexico.org . . . . . . .76,89 Casa Nova By Natalie . . . .www.casanovagallery.com . . . . .13 Casa Chimayo Restaurante . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The Lodge at Santa Fe . . . .www.lodgeatsantafe.com . . . .3,47 White Sands National Monument www.alamogordo.com . .72,C4 Hester House Candy & Gifts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.casachimayosantafe.com . . .36,47 Palacio de Marquesa Taos . . .www.marquesataos.com . . .3,47 96 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.ziapublishing.com