ZIPPED I NTERNATIONAL FALL 2014
FALL 2014
ZIPPED staff
ISSUE 14 |ZIPPED MAGAZINE
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BRIEFS
4. ZIPPED PICKS The five must-have international beauty products.
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35
FEATURES
10. FAST TRACK The diminishing of the
exclusivity of top fashion tags.
SWEET 6. GET THE LOOK 12.ADDITIONS
ENDINGS
34. GOLD RUSH Enhance your shine with
gold-infused hair products.
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Stand out with metallics and VELVET TOUCH Glaze yourself this season prints this season. This wealthy fabric has with edible accessories from withstood the test of time. around the globe.
8. AU NATURALE Conquer the no-makeup, makeup look.
18. OUT OF PRINT 38. BREAKING BLACK The rise of the international bloggers.
20. MADE IN Transnational fashion outweighs your own style.
32. THREADS
WITHOUT THOUGHT On Katerina Cape: Nanette Lepore Jumpsuit: Club Monaco Shoes: Novus
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The fashion industry has publicized its cultural insensitivity.
Is Navy the new Black?
EDITORIAL Daniela Rodriguez Editor-in-Chief Amanda Etkind Executive Editor Annika Downs Managing Editor Danielle Martin Creative Director Liz Ferrari Kayla Isaacs Features Editors Jacqueline Homan Eliza Weinreb Associate Features Editors Natalia Forsey Erica Hewins Fashion Directors Lung Ung Associate Fashion Editor Charlotte Bickley Fashion Stylist Zoe Malliaros Jessica Mattern Copy Editors Alyssa J. Ford Research Editor PHOTO & DESIGN Yerin Kim Danielle LaRose Art Directors Drew Osumi Photo Director Elizabeth Young Photo Assistant BUSINESS & COMMUNICATIONS Alejandra Charrabe Publisher Ivette Terrazas Advertising Director Liz Lillie Olivia McCann Public Relations Directors Laina Pisano Public Relations Assistant Katherine Weis Social Media Manager Emma Lux Social Media Assistant FACULTY ADVISOR Melissa Chessher
LETTER from the editor
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love people watching. This last summer I lived in New York City and while drinking mimosas with my best friend something caught my attention. A girl walking by was wearing a black leather pencil skirt, with a navy blue sweater and aqua blue, opentoe heels in 90-degree weather. When I turned around to face my friend, she raised one of her eyebrows while sipping her drink. It might be questionable why she was wearing a leather skirt or even a sweater in such feverish weather. But it was also amusing that I liked her style, and actually liked it a lot. What I realized at that point was that in the capital of the world, you could see everything and anything. Every person exemplifies through their garments a portion of their values, beliefs and culture-creating fashion statements on a daily basis. From the beginning of fashion, it has gone unnoticed that international designers have had a great influence in dictating the standard of what to wear around most cultures. Coco Chanel (France), Giorgio Armani (Italy), Tom Ford (U.S.), and many others have been for years, if not decades, the most famous designers of all time. I am Colombian and ironically enough, I chose to do my only issue focusing on international beauty and fashion. While I was growing up, I was mostly influenced by American style icons but while moving to different places around the world, I adopted part of their cultural values and incorporated them into my own. This semester, Zipped encourages you to explore new trends. Travel. Look around you and make sense of what others are wearing. Turn to page 32 to get educated on the cultural value fashion goes unrecognized for, look at page 12 to crave these delicious international additions or
Photographed by Olivia Alonso Gough
check out page 4 to see which international beauty products our staff chose just for you. As Coco Chanel once said, “In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.� Enjoy!
Daniela Rodriguez, Editor-in-Chief
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ZIPPED picks Five of our staff members choose their favorite beauty products from around the world.
Daniela Rodriguez Editor-in-Chief Le Volume de Chanel mascara Eyelashes are the most important feature on a woman's face. When I tried Le Volume De Chanel, I could not believe how easy it was to get the lush lashes I’ve always wanted. Prior to this mascara, I used not two or three, but four mascaras to achieve striking lashes. Now, I only have to apply two coats of this one product and am left with the long, dark and voluminous eyelashes. It's an excellent buy!
Charlotte Bickley Fashion Stylist Dr. Jart+ BB Bounce Beauty Balm I use many different products before going out, but ths is one I can't live without! The Dr. Jart+ BB Bounce Beauty Balm is one of the best beauty balms on the market. Its lightweight texture and natural look on the skin make it perfect for day or night. If you're looking to switch-up your foundation for a lighter product this is the one to try.
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Danielle Martin Creative Director Koh Gen Do Cleansing Spa Water Koh Gen Do’s top-selling mineral make-up remover, Cleansing Spa Water, makes you feel exactly as the name describes-- rejuvenated and fresh! The botanical formula, curated from natural spring water and herbs, is completely free of chemicals. This cleanser is gentle and leaves your skin free of that oily feeling that similar products can cause. This splurge-worthy item is usually sold out, so stock up while you can!
Erica Hewins Fashion Director Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick Revlon's Super Lustrous Lipstick in the color Cherries in the Snow is a makeup must-have. This lipstick has been flying off the shelves since the 1950s, and with good reason. Theshade is the perfect mix of red and pink. The pink tones are great for daytime,while the red tones pop at night. The formula goes on smooth and doesn't fade awkwardly as it wears. This should be a staple product in everyone's makeup collection!
Liz Lillie Public Relations Director Jo Malone Peony & Blush Suede Cologne This flirtatious Jo Malone cologne, with top notes of peony and red apple, is the essence of charm. I love how the scent is subtle and not overwhelming, but still lasts throughout the day. The florals pop when you first spray but as you wear it, the delicate base note of suede comes through. This is a must for anyone who enjoys a sweet, crisp and floral fragrance.
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get the look
BY ANNIKA DOWNS
MARC BY MARC JACOBS
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1. TOP $84, Sister Jane; piperlime.com 2. NECKLACE $39.90, Zara; zara.com 3. RING $14, Topshop; topshop. com 4. CLUTCH $198, Clare V; clarev.com 5. SHOES $54.90, AKIRA; shopakira.com 6. SKIRT $210, MSGM; thecorner.com 7. CARDIGAN $198, Golden Goose; farfetch.com
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THE JEWELRY amp up the glam factor with Zara's stone encrusted necklace
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SHINE BRIGHT
THE SHOE let out your inner galactic goddess with these chunky heels by AKIRA booties
Luxe metallics give the classics a cool futuristic twist.
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7 DIESEL BLACK GOLD
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DRIES VAN NOTEN
1. EARRINGS $128, Elizabeth Cole; piperlime.com 2. BLAZER $120, Y.A.S; atterleyroad. com 3. TOP $30, River Island; riverisland.com 4. DRESS $310, Pinko; harrods.com 5. BOOTS $94.75, Asos Collection; asos.com 6. BAG $219, Rebecca Minkoff; barneyswarehouse. com 7. SKIRT $69.95, H&M; hm.com
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GO BOLD
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This season, stand out in vibrant hues and prints.
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THE DRESS turn heads at any soirĂŠe in this flattering fit and flare dress by Pinko
KENZO
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au
naturale Follow these four simple steps for a naturally flawless face. BY AMANDA ETKIND
1. 2. 3. 4.
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Apply a lightweight tinted moisturizer all over your face or mix a pump of your favorite foundation into your everyday moisturizer for a similar effect. Follow-up with a dusting of translucent powder, concentrating on your t-zone to ensure you stay shine-free all day.
Next, lightly sweep bronzer in a three-shape motion around your face—make sure to hit the high points of your face where the sun naturally hits. Then pop a pink cream blush onto the apples of your cheeks. Cream products meld into the skin giving you a natural looking flush.
Curl lashes with an eyelash curler to instantly awaken tired eyes; then add a coat (or two) of your favorite mascara to your upper and lower lashes. Concentrate the mascara wand at the root of your eyelashes and wiggle through for fluttery lashes without clumps.
Lastly, swipe a rosy-colored balm onto your lips for a plush pout that will protect your lips from the harsh winter winds.
Photographed by Drew Osumi Hair and makeup by Amanda Etkind Modeled by Julia Naftulin
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FAST TRACK
BY JUSTIN-RAYNE BRYANT
As the age of technology advances, exclusivity in the fashion industry no longer exists.
I
n the land of instant gratification and the ever-erupting Apple pay, the wait for haute couture to hit your front door has never been shorter. As fashion blogging and online purchases become the shopping norm, the age-old tradition of waiting for highly anticipated fashion week releases are slowly dissipating. This leaves fashion gatekeepers wondering if this will be their demise. According to a report from the statistics portal, Statista, American’s mobile and online shopping purchases grew by more than five percent between 2010-2014. It is projected that by 2017 more than 60% of everyday shopping activities will take place online. What room does that leave for garments and runways? “I think now more than ever people have an eye and more access into the fashion industry than ever before,” says Lonnie Hall, Ralph Lauren Purple Label men’s brand ambassador. “And this is scary for fashion gatekeepers.” The first fashion week was held in 1943 with a central purpose of pulling American women’s interest away from French fashion, distracting them from their concerns about World War II, and providing them with visions of garments to dream about owning in the upcoming year. Only a select few were able to attend such shows, says Sam Shaw, media and marketing graduate student at SU.
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The relationship between the haute couture designer and consumer is one of utmost exclusivity. The consumer’s status, creativity, and inspiration would cause looks to trickle down to the masses over time, eventually becoming affordable and accessible to middle and lower classes. But, this has all changed. Now, due to the pace of fashion, the fashion and magazine industries are losing their function as coveted gatekeepers. Month after month, magazines are pushed to look for innovative ways of bringing exclusivity to each new issue, due to the instantaneous presence of clothing from the runway to the masses. During this past fashion week, Polyvore, the fashion image curating site revealed that their followers styling sense and choices were almost identical to the new looks revealed on the runway, says Carla Lloyd, beauty and fashion milestone professor. “You begin to wonder with time, who are the fashion followers turning to in terms of the big news about next season, the next big movement, and the next big trend” she ponders. Runway looks are no longer just on the runway, but on city streets and suburban roads, as soon as they’re released. To combat this emerging trend, magazines are reaching out to advertisers, merchandisers, and design houses to get exclusive rights to runway looks for their publications. The notion behind this approach is that the only way to
save a magazine’s and designer’s exclusivity is to not give the consumer access to everything. This choice has also influenced the way designers have presented clothing at their fashion shows, inadvertently impacting the fashion seasons. “The difference between the seasons has honestly just become confusing,” says Shaw. “Every time I look at blogs I see another designer presenting more clothing after I just thought fashion week was over and I had seen everything they had for that season.” Traditionally, seasons were presented six months to a year before being released to the public, but now, they are shown in a much shorter span of time. Designers like Alexander Wang are rebelling against this traditional norm by unveiling multiple seasonal presentations throughout the fall and spring, versus one large show per season. But why? “Demand,” says Hall. “Design plagiarism is a pastime that will never die, but to combat it, designers began pushing out their garments sooner.” There isn’t much that can be done to combat the tides that come with consumers being able to access fashion immediately, he says. Pop culture and social media have largely contributed to the demise of the highfashion brand. As celebrities like Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Kim Kardashian continue to be seen wearing garments straight from the runway, before or immediately after the attire is presented, it is no surprise that the consumer’s demand would increase as well. This desire for immediacy within all areas of the American culture has seeped into the fashion industry. In an effort to combat it, the already private fashion world is opting to become even more exclusive. Several designers, large and small, such as Chanel, Tom Ford, and Moschino have chosen to try their hands at the limited release game, providing consumers with a small quantity of products for a short period of time. This allows the design house to maintain its exclusivity, integrity, and often high price points. “People want to be individuals and have something no one else can have, just like designers want to distinguish themselves from each other, so this technique of implementing a shorter cycle only makes sense,” says Lloyd. Websites like Style.com, Moda Operandi, and various boutiques have made their claim to fame by providing
customers with looks straight from the runway without a waiting period. Anthony Orendorff, on-campus fashion designer of C Dreams, believes these sites and other novel avenues to obtain merchandise help preserve, rather than hurt, the industry. “People will always want exclusive things, and whether they can get it fast or slow doesn’t matter just as long as they get it,” he says. Some magazines, designers, and fashion providers have partnered together to aid this relationship between the industry and consumers. Elle, InStyle, and Seventeen magazines have combined with fashion provider Net-APorter to add links to featured merchandise shown on their websites, applications, and magazines. These partnerships allow consumers to shop directly from the publications. Within the past few years, designers have begun to shift their focus back to creating pieces with the utmost quality. Quality is what separates four figure price tags from their two digit replicas. “To millennials, quality is huge, and craftsmanship is one of the most sensible ways to preserve a designers authenticity,” Lloyd says. One fact that will continue without resolve is that the fashion industry will do whatever it can to preserve its title as an exclusive unit. At the recent fashion week presentations, exclusivity took the form of smaller venues and a reduced amount of seating available for the press and public. “Fashion thrives and gets its life force from having an unattainable and elite status. If that is lost, then the industry has lost the ability to demand certain things from customers,” says Hall. The fashion industry is pushing back by creating new barriers of exclusivity. Despite this constant push for innovation, the industry still shows no loss of sustenance, as long as there is a demand. If anything, the high demand for wearing runway looks as soon as possible is a direct indication that the fashion industry is here to stay. “Designers are artists so the pressure to constantly create can only last so long and the same for magazines. So we may see designers take more sabbaticals in an effort to be able to come back refreshed with new ideas,” says Lloyd. “But this may be just what they need to keep that gatekeeper exclusivity.”
“PEOPLE WILL ALWAYS WANT EXCLUSIVE THINGS, AND WHETHER THEY CAN GET IT FAST OR SLOW DOESN'T MATTER JUST AS LONG AS THEY GET IT.”
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SWEET ADDITIONS
This season satisfy your sweet tooth with these appetizing accessories.
Photographed by Drew Osumi Hair and makeup by Maya Champion Styled by Erica Hewins, Natalia Forsey, Lung Ung, Charlotte Bickley Modeled by Abby Wile, Maya Champion, Mollie Morgan, Yan Mei Jang, Andreacarola Urso
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PARIS
Ring: Vintage Pearls: Ellie Mia Necklaces: Chanel
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LONDON
Earrings: Lord and Taylor Necklace: Vintage Clutch: Alexander Wang Cuff: Designer Warehouse Bracelet: Ellie Mia Rings: Vintage
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N.Y.C.
Necklace: Designer Warehouse Earrings: Designer Warehouse Clutch: Ellie Mia Bracelet: Ellie Mia
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TOKYO
Necklace: Zara Bag: Stella McCartney
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MILAN
Earrings: Ellie Mia Necklace: Designer Warehouse Bracelet: Pandora Rings: Swarovski, Vintage
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f PRINT OUTO
The business of blogging is at an alltime high, as international bloggers take the reigns, sparking trends and promoting fashions from Milan to the Philippines. BY ZOE MALLIAROS & LIZ FERRARI
T
he third week in September is Veronica Ferraro’s busiest. She bustles from tent to tent, leaving Fendi for Prada and Armani for Cavalli. She sits front row, in a black mesh skirt and matching top, leaving a glimpse of her chic sport shorts for the fashion world to see. She watches intently as models sashay down the runway, carefully honing in on looks she loves and one’s she loathes. But unlike the designers backstage and the models beneath the fluorescent lights, Ferraro’s work doesn’t end when the curtains close. It has just begun. Ferraro, along with thousands of other style gurus are penetrating the fashion industry, becoming leading forces in deciding what’s hot and what’s not. They’re not renowned designers or detail-oriented stylists. Nor are they lanky models or swanky magazine editors. They’re the latest generation of fashion influencers: bloggers, tailoring the fashion industry one post at a time. These bloggers have the ability to reach audiences across the world. Ferraro runs her blog “The Fashion Fruit,” out of Milan, but has followers in Australia, Canada, and Brazil. Her conservative, high-end blog attracts conventional fashion fanatics, searching for looks to wear to business meetings or on a night out. She has over 2,000 followers on Pinterest, 200,000 followers on Instagram and nearly one and a half million Facebook friends. Bryan Yambao, of Bryanboy is a Filipino based blogger, with an audience from France to Korea. His blog has over 1.4 million unique hits each month, and his Twitter and Instagram each have over 500,000 followers. His blog revolves around street style, attracting a daring audience that doesn't shy away from patchwork pants and men’s motorcycle jackets. Ferraro and Yambao cater their content to a specific audience, using their tastes to select what fashions to feature, and their voices to spread their unique messages. Today’s fashion world is limitless. From grunge chic, to street chic, to designer chic, style possibilities are endless. It can be overwhelming seeing leather pants and loafers or pantsuits and pleather, but these bloggers break down fashion,
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unstitching style thread by thread so Designers have realized their followers understand. These the vast, international audibloggers are successful because they ence that bloggers touch, and listen to their audience and cater their are teaming up with them for content to them. Yambao knows his sales. These bloggers dissemireaders wouldn't be into Vineyard nate messages to all areas of Vines pants and Sperry’s, whereas the globe, and reach more than Ferraro knows that leather chaps any billboard or commercial. aren’t her followers’ favorite things. They have turned blogging into And, true to the World Wide a business, relying on affiliate Web, their blogs are not confined sales and promotions. Bloggers to borders. We see Bryan Yamin a way have become umbrella bao’s street-chic style in Manhatbrands, one large name encapsulattan, Madrid and even on Marshall ing dozens of smaller ones within. Street. We see his beloved bold, According to Women’s Wear Daily, geometric prints on anything these Internet-famous trendsetters from pantsuits to hoodies. He are earning six-figure annual incomes. sported Birkenstock-esque Many bloggers create empires sandals on his blog for over without intending to do so. Yambao a year before the once fashbegan his career as a web developer, ion faux pas took off, thanks and started blogging out of his parents’ to bloggers like Yambao basement in 2004. By 2007, he received who are sparking trends. the Philippine Blog Award for Best Fashion Birkenstocks were the and Lifestyle Blog. In 2009, The New York third most ordered shoe Times named him an “Internationally-loved on Amazon this summer, fashion superblogger.” Ferraro also started surpassed only by Nike, her blog to showcase her personal style, and TEENVOGUE, MARCH 2009 which rakes in 28 bilwas blown away by the amount of followers lion annually, and Asics. she attracted. She says, “I realized that through Andy Torres, my blog, I was able to communicate with people Mexico native turned Amsterdam blogger of StyleScrap- from all over the world, to inspire my readers, advising them book, has set the trend for vintage chic. Unlike Ferraro and in the best way possible. My dream was becoming a reality.” Yambao, who cater to an upscale audience and rock five After Ferraro’s blog skyrocketed, she also figure outfits, Torres tailors her blog to a cost-conscious au- paired with world-renowned designers. Louis Vuitdience. She features looks from H&M and Zara, occasionally ton, Dior, Ferragamo all wanted her endorsement, mixing in an Alexander McQueen vintage find. Her girl-next- as she was flown to fashion weeks around the world. door charm attracts a youthful audience, and sets trends Salt Lake City-based blogger Rachel Parcell, of Pink Peofor far more than Mexico and Amsterdam’s youth. Her easy nies, also began her blog with humble beginnings. What startgoing, yet fashion forward style has brought in millions of ed as an online journal turned into one of the web's most popfollowers, and shaped what affordable stores are sporting. ular blogs, and a nearly million-dollar marketing campaign? Bloggers like Yambao and Torres are not just setting But for all the blogger success stories, there are a thoutrends for what to wear and how to wear it; they’re also sand more failed ones, ending up in the blogging graveyard making them. Bryanboy’s style and vast audience mesmer- where 95% fall. According to blogging.org, over 81% of blogized the eclectic Marc Jacobs. So, he created a bag in honor gers never make $100, compared to Parcell’s $ 960,000 annual of the famous Filipino blogger, and has invited him to sit salary. 65% of blogs haven't been updated in over a year, and front row for Fashion week. Yambao was also the first to set only 9% of bloggers make enough to sustain their lifestyle. the standards for designer “gifting” with bloggers, which But the fashion blogs that do make it, make it big. offers compensation for brand coverage by bloggers. He Millions are drawn to blogs that will help them dress made it acceptable for bloggers to receive accommodations, and feel better about themselves. Technology and megoods, and airfare for appearances and looks they feature. dia outlets enable bloggers to reach them, without the Torres has become the new face of Mango, the Barcelona- price of a magazine subscription or personal stylist. based women’s wear store that's giving Zara a run for their As the curtain closes and the fluorescent lights money. Shoppers recognize her familiar, friendly face, mak- dim, Ferraro exits front row and prepares for her ing them link Mango to the StyleScrapbook. Torres’ audience next phase. She weeds through snapshots and distrusts her and therefore, trusts Mango for affordable, and play racks, keeping her followers at center stage. up-to-date looks. Torres has also paired with Kipling to create stylish camera bags that won’t burn a hole in your pocket.
Key Players.
They're not designers,
stylists or magazine
editors - yet. The
next generation of
influential fashion
forces is making its
mark online.
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Feature #
The combination of elegance and street style defines the five fashion capitals of the world.
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#2
Styled by Erica Hewins Natalia Forsey Lung Ung Charlotte Bickley Photographed by Drew Osumi Hair & makeup by Lung Ung
Modeled by Natalia Forsey Drew McClain Charice Lundy Taylor Jody Mara Tuccio
Ian DaRin Katerina Sagardia Tim Larach Julian Baptiste du Buclet Alison Dobbertin
On Taylor Shirt: Banana Republic Pants: Banana Republic On Natalia Top: Alexander Wang Bottoms: Rag and Bone Shoes: Vintage ZIPPED |
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MILAN 22 | ZIPPED
(left) On Drew Suit: Alfani Button Down: Ralph Lauren Shoes: Docker On Katerina Cape and Pants set: Vintage Shoes: Novus (right) On Katerina: Dress: Style Stalker Shoes: Novus
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N.Y.C.
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(right) On Tim Shirt: H&M Pants: H&M Sweatshirt: H&M Shoes: Clarks Watch: Timex On Mara Dress: Helmut Lang Jacket: Coach Clutch: H by Halston Necklace: Shopbop Shoes: Doc Martens (left) On Tim Shirt: H&M Pants: H&M Leather Jacket: Jack's Co. Shoes: Clarks On Mara Dress: BB Dakota Jacket: THEPERFEXT Purse: Saint Laurent Socks: Urban Outfitters Shoes: Doc Martens
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LONDON 26 | ZIPPED
(left) On Taylor Shirt: Banana Republic Pants: JCrew Shoes: Hugo Boss Watch: Breda On Natalia Dress: Vintage Coat: Sandro Bracelet: Cartier Necklace: Cartier Shoes: Vintage (right) On Taylor Shirt: Banana Republic Pants: Banana Republic Shoes: Hugo Boss On Natalia Dress: FINDS+NOMIA Clutch: Vintage Shoes: Vintage
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TOKYO
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(left) On Charice Crop Top/Skirt set: Topshop Fur Jacket: American Retro Headphones: Panasonic Shoes: MSGM On Ian Shirt: Supreme Pants: Old Navy Belt: DeJulio's Jacket: Alife Socks: Huff Shoes: Nike (right) On Charice Jacket: Vintage Hermes Shirt: Urban Outfitters Pants: Urban Outfitters Shoes: MSGM On Ian Jacket: French Connection Sweatshirt: Unkut Pants: Adidas Shoes: Adidas Necklace: H&M
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PARIS 30 | ZIPPED
(left) On Alison Dress: Marchesa Fur Vest: Yves Salomon Shoes: Nine West (right) On Julian Suit: Tallia Shoes: Aldo On Alison Dress: Marchesa Notte Shoes: Nine West
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threads WITHOUT
thought E
The appropriations of garments and accessories have blurred the lines between stylish statements and offensive ensembles. BY KELLEY ROWLAND
laborate feathered bonnets, a bloodstained salmon sweatshirt, and a striped children’s tee with a six-pointed star all possess a uniting element. As they move down the runway or hang off a mannequin, these items exist as emblems of the fashion industry’s insensitivity to cultural relics and times of tragedy. Despite complaints of disrespect, public expressions of outrage, and scrutiny from the media, tactlessness remains a recurring trend in the business of sartorial production. On May 4th, 1970, the National Guard fired 67 rounds at Kent State University that resulted in the deaths of four students and the wounding of nine more. In September of 2014, Urban Outfitters commoditized the tragedy and sold a $129 sweatshirt, lettered with Kent State University, marked with its logo, and covered in fake bloodstains. Whether through the exploitation of a devastating historical event or through cultural appropriation, the fashion industry has a tendency to attempt to make style statements out of items that are anything but chic. While there’s a difference between a
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celebrity wearing a Bindi for fashion and a store selling a shirt that says, “Eat Less,” what remains similar is the necessity for both to stop. “Controversy gains recognition in this world,” says Lawrence Mason, Jr. professor of multimedia photography and design at the S.I. Newhouse School of Public Communications. “If no one paid attention to items like this, retailers would stop producing them,” he says. The most reasonable explanation for the manufacturing of contentious clothing is profit, particularly when it comes to fast fashion retailers. The global womenswear market earned over 638.1 billion dollars in revenue in 2013 and retailers aim to be top earners by any and all means. In today’s market, consumers are spending less but expecting more from their items. They want products that stand out and stores have to cater to this demand. “This desire stems from people ever going to extremes to seek individuality and recognition for being somehow individual in a world of mass commodities, “ Mason says. What society fails to keep in mind is what's sacrificed for aesthetics. You may turn heads wearing that shirt covered with
the word “Depression” in varying, bolded black letters. Or perhaps blame won’t result in progress. you’ll be the star of Coachella in your factory produced turquoise The solution isn’t obvious. If production of particular items necklace and silky kimono. However, you’ll also ignore the signifi- was put to an end, it could be argued that such limitations restrict cance those words have to people who suffer from mental disabili- free speech and creativity. It’s important to remember that fashion ties. You’ll disregard cultures in which those items mean more than is a form of expression and to a certain extent, particularly in the fashion. Those stories are lost and stigmatized. United States, we are free to say whatever we want. But just beAn example of this neglect can be found in the fashion busi- cause something can be said or done without legal consequences, ness’s tendency to steal items from Native American cultures. There doesn’t mean there aren’t moral ones. And creativity shouldn’t be are over 566 federally recognized Native American tribes, but by valued over empathy and awareness. selling headdresses the industry not only devalues the item but “You have to step back and think about the very public space also encourages a stereotype. The tribes of the west, southwest, clothing operates in. Maybe designers forget about that sensibility, and northeast speak different languages, differ in societal struc- that fashion is a form of communication and these t-shirts are going ture, and carry out life in their own ways. “Native American cultures to be worn and seen,” says Carla Lloyd, director of the fashion & are not all identical”, explains Terry Jones a member of the Seneca beauty communications milestone at the S.I. Newhouse School of Nation Of Indians Wolf Clan, filmmaker, and Syracuse University Public Communications. junior. Fashion reflects societal tendencies The full feathered headdresses that and thought. Like any aspect of culture, brands like Victoria’s Secret pair with "THE FASHION INDUSTRY it is not individual, but rather influenced scanty bikinis or that Elle UK featured on by what’s going on around the world. their July 2014 cover are not associated Regardless, the industry’s thoughtless acHAS A TENDENCY TO with all Native Americans, but rather the tions toward minority groups, events, and Plains Indian tribes. “Amongst the Plains hardships are unacceptable. The effects Nations, full-feathered headdresses were ATTEMPT TO MAKE STYLE of globalization make the world a place only worn by men who were of a certain of integration where people can learn STATEMENTS OUT OF and celebrate one another’s culture. But status.) They had to be war leaders or social leaders, so they were highly rethere are negative consequences too. The ITEMS ANYTHING BUT industry should reflect the diverse global spected men,” explains Maureen Trudelle Schwarz, PhD and professor of anthropolidentity, without commoditizing it. It’s the ogy at the Maxwell School at Syracuse responsibility of both producers and conCHIC." University. Karlie Kloss strutting down the sumers though. “There’s not 100 percent catwalk in a jeweled embedded swimsuit and a headdress to match of the blame to place on everybody, but we can’t take blame away is an example of how the industry blatantly ignores the significance because otherwise it’s a cycle,” says Jones. “The consumers will buy to which a tribe holds the cultural relic. what they think looks nice and the producers who make items may Schwarz believes the appropriation of items like this comes not be aware. But Natives aren’t in a position of power to stop it. So from a sort of nostalgia that Americans have for Native American it’s a perfect storm on how it (cultural appropriation) keeps being cultures. “Europeans came here, killed endless numbers of Na- perpetuated.” tive people, started establishing the country and they had no real The shopper’s role within this cycle cannot be ignored. We start connection to the land, no real identity. So they appropriate things out with the idea that all these different objects have some kind from Native Americans that they could use to claim as their own,” of meaning, but this boils down to the individual consumer, Lloyd Schwarz says. explains. “It’s up to the consumer to take action and the best action However, cultural exploitation isn’t a new phenomenon. “In the to be taken is to just quit shopping for that kind of apparel,” late 19th century, corporations used exotic cultures as a way to pro- she says. mote sales,” says Philip Arnold, Associate Professor of Religion and There have been occasions of public backlash—particuNative American and Indigenous Studies. And this is still a means of larly through social media— after the release of products like marketing and selling products today, and is not limited to any one the Kent State sweatshirt or the striped Zara tee. And those culture or group of people either. Victoria’s Secret sold lingerie mar- stores have issued apologies. But a retail management and keted under the name “Sexy Little Geisha,” and Abercrombie and magazine journalism student at SU shows why hashtags and Fitch created “Buddha Bash” T-shirts. The Spanish retailer Zara sold Internet lobbying don’t have the necessary impact. “I thought a children’s shirt reminiscent of the garments Jewish prisoners were the Kent State University sweatshirt was disgusting,” says Leigh forced to wear in the Nazi concentration camps. Fashion retailers Miller. “Not everything they sell if offensive though and it’s also produce clothing that targets women and other oppressed definitely an issue with Urban’s buyers. Regardless, the massgroups. In June of 2014, the maternity store Pea in A Pod sold a es aren’t going to stop shopping there,” she continues. T-shirt that said, “Wake me up when I’m skinny,” and another that It’s easy to go into a store like H&M and buy that cheap, said, “I miss my waist.” The department store Sears sold children’s cute t-shirt, but no matter what retailers make available, we shirts that said "Don't Make Me Kick You in the Fallopian Tubes" and have to hold ourselves to a higher standard of ethics. If you “Nice Girls Don't Pepper Spray.” by a store’s merchandise, you’re supporting them. Neither The industry continues to put items mocking preconceived the industry nor the consumer should be exempt from these stereotypes on the market, but as a society we’ve failed to address principles. But the consumers are the ultimate influencers. So how to stop it. “I do have very strong opinions, but the way to go if we hold ourselves accountable and don’t spend money on about it is with peace and being inclusive. It’s easy to point your fin- fake bloodstained sweatshirts, the industry will be forced to ger at someone whose bad,” says Jones. He emphasizes that placing follow suit.
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gr old
Gold is no longer just sitting in a pot at the end of the rainbow. You can now achieve shiny lustrous locks with gold-infused shampoos, conditioners, and styling products.
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BY AMANDA ETKIND
inter weather can turn healthy hair into dull tresses. Reawaken your lackluster locks with L’Oreal Professionnel Mythic Oil Soufflé d’Or Sparkling shampoo and conditioner ($25, haircareusa. com). This light, yet super moisturizing duo, leaves behind a subtle sparkle once washed away. After shampooing, evenly coat strands with the conditioner, let it sit for three minutes, rinse out and you’re left with a dusting of golden glitter. Instead of using regular styling products switch-it-up with a shimmering leave-in conditioner. Apply a lightweight product like Drybar Gold Mine Shimmering Leave-In conditioner ($29, Sephora) from the middle to the ends of your hair. The do-it-all formula acts as a heat protectant and detangles locks. It contains small particles of mica that add a gilded effect to hair. For an intense moisturizing product—perfect for nourishing dry, brittle hair— try fast-absorbing oil like Nuxe Huile Prodiguese OR ($39,us.nuxe.com). Apply this multipurpose product to the ends of your hair for a glossy finish. Quick tip: use this oil on your arms and legs for illuminated skin on a night out. Amp-up your twisted topknot or messy fishtail braid with a glistening hairspray like Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine Spray ($14, moroccanoil.com). This finishing spray reflects light, giving the hair a luminous quality by combining the brand’s signature argan oil with vitamins and antioxidants. Use the product to tame pesky fly-aways, while adding a luminous finish to your once conventional updo. Enhance your natural hue with a temporary color shadow like Kevin Murphy’s Color Bug in Shimmer ($30, Amazon.com). The product leaves a subtle golden tone to your natural hair color without the commitment of using a permanent hair dye. To use, drape a towel over your shoulders to ensure the color doesn’t transfer onto your clothing, mist hairspray onto your locks, and then rub the product on for a glistening golden glow.
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Photographed by Drew Osumi Hair and makeup by Amanda Etkind Modeled by Olivia Klayman
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VELVET FIRST 1100'S WOVEN AND USED AS A SYMBOL OF Velvet, a woven WEALTH tufted textile made of silk thread, originated in the Far East, but remained a secret until the 12th century. Its evenly distributed threads and dense pile make it soft to the touch. Only the richest of the rich could get their hands on this lush fabric. KING HENRY VIII AND 1300'S-1600'S HIS WIFE, ANNE BOLEYN King Henry VIII and his wife, ROCKED VELVET DURING Anne Boleyn, remained THEIR REIGN. fashionable during their reign over England as velvet served as an expression of power. Anne incorporated rich colors such as black and red in her jewel coated dresses while the King drowned himself in massive velvet coats. Their castle also boasted velvet walls, velvet furniture, and the fabric lined the inside of horse-drawn carriages. “FLAPPER ERA” 1920'S FEATURING SHAPELESS The “Flapper Era” featured shapeless shift VELVET SHIFT DRESSES dresses made from burnout Velvet. Originating in France, burnout or Devoré velvet is created by applying chemicals to the fabric, leaving behind a silky transparent design. This was commonly used as a cheaper alternative to luxe fabrics like lace. DESIGN CONTINUE CREATION OF BURN- 1960'S OUT VELVET AND The 60’s sexed up burnout velvet, using the material VELVET MINIDRESSES on mini dresses. Designer Emilio Pucci created velvet pieces in his signature psychedelic patterns, while Christian Dior used the fabric for luxurious floor-length gowns. The birth of the head-to-toe velvet suit gave a new meaning to fashion forward men. INTRODCUTION OF THE 1970'S th VELVET MAXI DRESS The velvet maxi dress remerged during the 70’s with a more playful twist. In Live and Let Die, the eighth Delev James Bond movie, Jane Seymour stole the show in her Emilio Pu memorable velvet maxi dress. Radiating in a shimmering a dress to a d red, this garment featured intricate detailing and a high Alexa Chung kept neckline complemented by a silver necklace. a black strapless velve PUNK VELVET, AND THE 1980'S by Erdem. CREATION OF VELVET VARIETY Punk fashion emerged in this decade and brought (VELOUR, CORDUROY, the velvet baby doll dress along with it. Shorter, VELVETEEN) spunkier dresses, made of a newer fabric called crushed velvet, were all the rage. With over fifteen types of velvet available including stretchy velvet (velour), rigid velvet (corduroy), and imitation velvet (velveteen), the fabric’s potential became limitless.
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1990'S VELVET LEOTARDS AND Shying away from its MINIDRESSES distinctive use in eveningwear, crushed velvet reappeared in the form of long sleeved leotards and a revival of mini dresses. It even managed to be widely popular in costumes. In Hocus Pocus, meddlesome witches wrapped themselves in velvet. Varying in shades of orange, red, pink, and green, their massive capes and Elizabethan styled peasant dresses were made of velvet, which soon became a Halloween staple. VELVET JUICY 2000'S TRACKSUITS The turn of the century brought a new fad for every teenage girl in America-- the Juicy Couture sweat suit. Think Regina George’s mom in Mean Girls, when she sports a tight pink velour tracksuit attempting to fit in with her daughter’s friends. RETURN OF FASHIONABLE VELVET, 2010 CROP TOPS, PANT SUITS, ETC Velvet returned to the runways with a vengeance in 2010. Alexander Wang brought a grungy modern look with shimmering velvet crop tops, jackets, and pants. Antonio Berardi kept it traditional by serving elegant floor length velvet dresses and Zac Posen played with different shades of red for a modern remake of the velvet mini dress. 2014 NER AND CELEBRITIES TO FEATURE VELVET Encompassing styles from different eras of the 20th century, designers seemed more than eager to modernize past trendy velvet looks. Celebrities replaced the Royals, who were once walking advertisements for he luxurious fabric. . Cara vigne donned a blue ucci velvet blazer as dinner, while it simple in From renaissance royals to the et dress
velvet touch
roaring 20’s and beyond, velvet has withstood the test of time.
BY ALYSSA J. FORD
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reaking b
black BY: BLAIR SYLVESTER SYLVESTER BY BLAIR & ELIZA WEINREB
Anna Wintour redefines the little black dress.
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opinion
ashion experts around the world have praised the color black for years. They call it the ultimate staple, timeless with an air of sexiness. It is universal, they say, a fit-for-any personality or body shape. Black is a color for all cultures and seasons. In cosmopolitan cities, like New York, where trends and style are of great value, wearing all black is even considered to be a rite of passage. But in September, Vogue.com released a 73-Questions video featuring Anna Wintour. Within the video the editor-in-chief revealed that she would never wear head to toe black; fashionistas everywhere were shocked. The Spring 2015 couture collections are on par with Wintour’s aesthetic. Navy, a much softer neutral, dominated the runways, leaving black as just an accent color. Calvin Klein, Nonoo, Public School, Prabal Gurung, The Row, Jason Wu, and Proenza Schouler are just a few of the prominent names that used dark blues for coats, tops, dresses, and pants. Navy is no new trend, but casting black aside very well may be. Before French designer Coco Chanel challenged the norms for women’s dress, black was mainly worn during funerals or used in religious garments. Because of Chanel’s progressive little black dress, the color evolved from religion and mourning to cocktails and everyday staples. Chanel's little black dress was indisputably tasteful and challenged mainstream fashion in the 1920s. She continued to center her collections on the classic neutrals; designing mix-and-match sportswear separates in blue, white, and mostly black. Her garments paired well and made dressing unrestrictive and easy. "I gave women a sense of freedom," Chanel said. "I gave them back their bodies: bodies that were drenched in sweat, due to fashion's finery." Even though black in the 1920s began as counter-culture challenging the mainstream, it was eventually embraced by the fashion industry. In the 1980s, designer brands like Antwerp Six, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rei Kawakubo used black as a freedom of expression. Garments were ripped and safety-pinned. Now well established within the industry, has black become too basic and lost its revolutionary roots? Could it be time to move forward? Wearing all black is an easy way to opt out of the admittedly time consuming decision-making process, but it can also limit creative expression. Taking the time to pair unexpected colors and play with different textures makes fashion a wearable art form. Maybe black is not gone for good, but Wintour’s video and the new spring collections provide inspiration to take a small step out of an all-black comfort zone because when you do, your day just might get a little bit brighter.
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