Zipped Magazine Spring 2016 by zippedmagazine

ZIPPED S PRING 2016

SPRING 2016

ISSUE 17 | ZIPPED MAGAZINE

BRIEFS 06 GET THE LOOK Upgrade your wardrobe with statement prints, bright colors, and ‘90s throwbacks 08 TALKING TEXTURE Ditch the hair products for a natural ’do 10 LET IT SHINE The dewy skin makeover 11 FAKING IT Try these temporary beauty tricks

FEATURES 12 A NEW GENERATION Young designers step into prominent roles 14 FINE ART Fashion meets craft with artwork by SU students 22 CAUGHT ON CAMERA The authenticity of fashion week street style 24 MADE IN AMERICA The U.S. fashion takeover 26 TWO FOR THE ROAD The ’60s make a comeback this season

ENDINGS 36 SLEEP NO MORE Take pajamas from the sheets to the streets 37 FASHION FROM FILM Style inspiration straight from the cinema 38 Q+A WITH ALIZA LICHT Zipped gets the inside scoop from former DKNY PR Girl 02

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

top left photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by fiona lenz, dress by conner ives top right photographed by allen chiu, modeled by ana vendrell, hair & makeup by julia welch, dress by reformation, scarf by j.crew middle left photographed by michael isenburg,“turned” by ilana wolfson, materials: paper towels, acrylic paint, black sewing string middle right photographed by allen chiu, modeled by marie lawrence, shirt by míshi new york, lingerie by allen chiu intimates bottom left photographed by allen chiu, modeled by sofia zavala, hair & makeup by marilyn musterait, top by h&m, skirt by alexa chung for ag jeans, sunglasses by stella mccartney bottom right photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by chloe hanley, hair & makeup by julia welch, top by h&m cover photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by chloe hanley, hair & makeup by julia welch, top by h&m, sunglasses by forever 21

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ELIZA WEINREB Editor-in-Chief NISHA STICKLES Managing Editor KAYLA ISAACS Executive Editor

EMMA BATY Managing Editor YERIN KIM Creative Director

FASHION & BEAUTY

CHARLOTTE BICKLEY Fashion Director

FEATURES

LAURA CABRAL Fashion Stylist

MAYA SOLO Fashion Stylist

JULIA WELCH Beauty Assistant

MARILYN MUSTERAIT Beauty Assistant

JACKIE HOMAN Features Editor

PHOTO & DESIGN

RENEE CHERRY Features Editor

ERIN REIMEL Beauty Features Editor MADISON BREAUX Asst. Features Editor

DANIELLE LAROSE Art Director

MARISSA ANGELONE Art Director

ALLEN CHIU Photo Editor

MICHAEL ISENBURG Photo Editor

CORY FERNÁNDEZ Asst. Features Editor

COLLIN GORDINIER Copy Editor DANIELLE AGUGLIARO Research Editor

PUBLIC RELATIONS

WEB CONTENT

ZOË MALLIAROS PR Director

MARLÉNA AHEARN Web Director

KRISTEN HURLEY PR Assistant

LAUREN SINATRA PR Assistant

DAYNA DIJOSEPH Web Editor

NOUTCHA LOPES Publisher MELISSA CHESSHER Faculty Advisor 04

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DARRIEA CLARK Web Editor

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

pring forward. Clocks and wardrobes change signifying warmer days and fresh starts lie ahead. This year, my favorite season also marks a close: the end of my time here at Syracuse. While I admit I am going to miss the comfort and familiarity of my daily routine, particularly 2 p.m. Kubal coffee breaks, I’m equally excited to experience something new, to challenge myself, and to think differently. For the first time in three years, my schedule will not be strategically planned out months in advance. The possibilities are endless, especially now that bad lottery numbers are not dictating my choices. (I’m convinced MySlice is rigged.) This issue, Zipped invites you to free yourself and take a new direction. Turn to page 38 and learn how to reinvent your image with the help of former DKNY PR Girl Aliza Licht who recently stepped down from her 17-year position as SVP of Global Communications at Donna Karan New York to start her own strategic consulting brand, Leave Your Mark LLC (Q+A). Or, revamp your spring beauty look with a few easy, commitment-free tricks that make a dramatic impact (Fakeup, p. 11). Read Battle

of the Brands on page 12 and discover how younger designers are breaking into the once-impenetrable industry and making their presences known with the help of social media. If you’re looking for some inspiration, pack up your bags and take a cue from our retro-inspired fashion spread to travel cross-country in style even if the destination is unclear (Route ’66, p. 26). As I continue on my own undefined journey in the coming months, I realize it’s not the end, but rather the simple prospect of moving forward that matters most. Taking any step means progress. Cheers to the hopeful wanderers exploring their own possibilities. You never know your limits until you’ve tested them. Bon voyage,

Eliza Weinreb Editor-in-Chief

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BRIEFS

GET THE LOOK

BY ZOË MALLIAROS

CALVIN KLEIN 2016

1 1. BACKPACK $795, YSL; ysl. com 2. SHOES $250, Kate Spade New York; katespade. com 3. SUNGLASSES $340, Garrett Leight; garrettleight.com 4. SHORTS $29.90, Zara; zara. com 5. BELT $17, Asos; asos. com 6. COAT $169, Zara; zara. com 7. BANDANA $12.50, Madewell; madewell.com

ALL STARS Hit the ‘90s greatest styles... one more time.

PRADA 1996

3 6 4

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@NYTIMESFASHION

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1. SUNGLASSES $290, Illesteva; illesteva.com 2.SHOES $288.42, Joshua Sanders; joshua-sanders.com 3. PANTS $425, Stella McCartney; stellamccartney.com 4. BAG $1,295, Anya Hindmarch; anyahindmarch.com 5. SHIRT $9.90, Zara; zara.com 6. JACKET $1,860, Mira Mikati x KAWS; shop.nordstrom.com

GOING GRAPHIC Show off your quirky side with playful patches and bold prints, sure to make a statement.

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JEREMY SCOTT

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F TALK

or decades, women worked to iron, curl, and blow their hair out to fit society’s beauty ideals. Thankfully, the rules of hair care have been broken as women now embrace their natural texture. “I think ‘beautiful hair’ used to be very styled and perfectly placed. Now, I believe it’s just hair that is healthy with a great haircut and hair color,” says Stephanie Dantuono, founder and owner of Adagio Salon in Syracuse, NY. Find ways to enhance your texture instead of trying to change it. Natural products help style some of the unrulier hair, taming it just enough so you can wake up, add a little product, and walk out the door.

T E X T UT OR E ME

Embrace your natural hair with this season’s top beauty trend. BY MADISON BREAUX

fine Girls with thin hair often complain their locks fall lifelessly. The best way to embrace finer texture is to avoid heavy mousses and gels. Jillian Salomone, owner of J. Luxe Salon in Syracuse, suggests using a thickening spray like Dallas by R+Co (randco.com, $28) to give fine hair some extra volume.

thick Thicker haired ladies often want a smooth look, frequently reaching for the flat iron. Instead of running the hot tool all over, focus on the areas that need extra attention. Salomone recommends using a heat protectant spray like Chi’s 44 Iron Guard Thermal Protection Spray (Ulta, $15) to prevent damage so hair looks sleek instead of fried.

wavy Soft layers help create perfect wavy locks. To enhance the natural texture and add extra shine, Salomone suggests using Après Beach Wave and Shine Spray by Oribe (oribe. com, $39). “You spray from the bottom up while your hair is damp or dry and out the door you go,” she says.

curly

photographed by michael isenburg modeled by samantha robles hair & makeup by julia welch

Ditch heavy products that weigh down your ringlets. Opt for a hydrating leave-in conditioner like Ouidad’s Moisture Lock Leave-In Conditioner (Ouidad, $26) and style with a gel to tame any unwanted frizz. When it comes to curls, the bigger the better, so embrace any remaining pouff and finish with hairspray to hold. ZIPPED

BRIEFS

photographed by michael isenburg modeled by samantha robles hair & makeup by julia welch

BY ERIN REIMEL

GLOSSED OVER

Move away from matte and let your skin shine with a dewy makeover.

atte foundations and liquid lipsticks are being traded for a glossier, more luminescent look all over. The spring makeup trend dominated the runways at Opening Ceremony, Marc Jacobs, and Alexander Wang, proving natural sheen is the ultimate coolgirl summer look. “It’s very editorial,” says Emma Rainear, senior educating consultant at Sephora. Rainear has seen a rise in products catering to girls looking for a glossy eye or extra glowy skin. MAC’s Studio Eye Gloss (maccosmetics.com, $22) is one of the launches tailored to helping customers mimic the style. Apply it all over the eye for an effortless, no makeup look or layer it over a cream shadow to amp up the pigments for a more dramatic take. For the skin, Rainear says mixing a luminous foundation with a highlighting primer like Kevyn Aucoin’s The Celestial Skin Liquid Lighting (Sephora.com, $52) will give skin the glow it needs.

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Finish it off with the Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist (Sephora.com, $48) for an intense yet wearable look. The key is to use very thin layers so it doesn’t get too messy. Makeup artist James Boehmer applied clear lip gloss to models’ eyelids and cheekbones at the spring/summer 2016 Opening Ceremony show. At Marc Jacobs, François Nars used this same technique by layering Vaseline on the lids, cheekbones, and under the eyes of the models. This method reflects light and creates a dewier finish on top of the skin. A cult favorite product for a glossy finish is Glossier’s The Balm Dotcom (glossier.com, $12). It’s a skin salve that’s meant to boost hydration, but it also works all over the face for an extra dewy, natural complexion. Balms and glosses make for easy application with just a touch of the products patted in with the fingers. It’s simple and effortless. Sweating in the summer sun never looked so good.

BRIEFS

BOLD BROWS

FAKE THE CHOP

The thicker the brows, the better. Aim for a defined arch with a light, feathery finish. Using an eyebrow pencil brush like the Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz (Sephora, $20) or a basic matte eye shadow the same shade as your brow hair, lightly fill in sparse spots. “For the most natural appearance, start filling in at the top arch of your brow working towards the end,” says Tammy Kontak, beauty stylist at Garbo’s Salon & Spa in Syracuse, NY. “Then finish up at the front portion of the brow.” She suggests spraying hairspray on a toothbrush or spooly and running it through for an all-day hold.

Khloé Kardashian and Jennifer Lawrence captured media attention by cutting off their hair and opting for fresh, “just rolled out of bed” styles. Instead of chopping off all of your locks, create this sexy “cut” without trimming an inch. It’s best to use second or third-day hair. Begin by adding some texture with a dry shampoo or texturizing spray. “Section off the hair into medium-sized portions, and then tuck the hair under and secure with a bobby pin,” says Kontak. “Finish off by running your fingers or comb through all of the hair so it naturally flows together, and then spritz a flexible hairspray.”

PLUMPED UP POUT

Instead of splurging on pricey lip fillers, overline your lips the old-fashioned way. Kontak says for the most natural look, it’s best to choose a lip liner shade closest to the lipstick color you plan on using. Then, start by overlining the lips from the center of your cupid’s bow (the area right below your nose) and move closer towards your natural lip line as you reach the corner. For an easy application and plenty of color options, try MAC’s Lip Pencil (MAC, $16.50) or Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide-On Lip Pencil (Sephora, $20).

FULL OF FRECKLES If you’ve ever dreamed of a having a freckled face like sixties icon Charlotte Rampling, find an eyeliner pencil in a color a few shades darker than your skin tone, such as Make Up For Ever’s Kohl Pencil (Sephora, $18). Lightly dot where you want the freckles, like around your T-zone, or try one prominent beauty mark for a sultry Marilyn Monroe vibe. photographed by michael isenburg modeled by chloe hanley hair & makeup by julia welch

FAKEUP

BY KAITLYN FREY

Enhance your beauty look with these temporary transformations. Beauty trends change in the blink of an eye. But quick tricks make it possible to keep up with the looks of the moment. If you’re hesitant to go all in with a total makeover, Zipped discovered a few commitment-free ways to switch things up. ZIPPED

FEATURES

As legendary designers leave their fashion houses, smaller labels make their presences known. BY MARY ANDERSON

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ut of the five 2016 CFDA nominees for Womenswear Burberry chief executive officer Christopher Bailey’s choice of David Designer of the Year, only one—Marc Jacobs—was and Victoria Beckham’s 16-year-old son, Brooklyn, to photograph the founded before 2005. Starting a brand to compete brand’s next campaign raised a few eyebrows, according to a BBC. with multi-billion dollar fashion houses may seem com article. Yet, both the Kardashians and Brooklyn Beckham have like an impossible feat, but it’s one that young millions of followers, promising an increase in online presence for the designers are willing to try with the help of social media. Newer older houses. According to digital intelligence firm L2, Burberry has brands are being publicized much faster than in the past, thanks to the top Digital IQ Index ranking, meaning that the brand performs their online presences. exceptionally well online and may be headed in the right direction by Emerging designers depend on more than good reviews to incorporating Beckham into its brand. build support in the industry. “There are a lot more brands than Even if brands thrive online, they can struggle to make a profit. “Rarely there were 20 years ago…and we also have more exposure to brands. are new designers really even selling. Brand new designers are just showing Twenty years ago you wouldn’t have known [about the brands] floor pieces or a collection of 8-14 pieces,” says fashion historian and unless you read every magazine ever. New York Times bestselling writer E.P. But now if you go online [there is] Cutler. They often lack the financial more access to more information,” resources that a larger, older brand “ESTABLISHED HOUSES says Lauren Sherman, the New York may have, making it difficult for them to editor for Business of Fashion. profit quickly in the international market. THAT HAVE A WINNING Vetements, which has only been Although social media has FORMULA OF A showing since fall 2014, received aided both emerging and established rave reviews for its spring/summer brands, it has also made it difficult SUCCESSFUL CREATIVE 2016 collection. That popularity has to stay at the top. “I don’t think DIRECTOR, A HIGHLY translated virtually to the brand’s it’s a young versus old brand thing. 300K plus Instagram following as of I think it’s the matter of the resources PROFITABLE COLLECTION, March 2016. you have and using them…It’s AND A STRONG SOCIAL “If you look at Vetements, I think really difficult to remain relevant a really big reason Demna [Gvasalia] no matter what brand you are,” MEDIA FOLLOWING MAY was hired at Balenciaga is because Sherman says. STILL FEEL THE NEED TO his work is huge on street style… Established houses that have CHANGE THEIR CREATIVE [Balenciaga] wants to be huge on a winning formula of a successful Instagram and they want the images of creative director, a highly profitable DIRECTION.” those clothes everywhere,” Sherman collection, and a strong social media says. Vetements and other younger following may still feel the need brands’ social media impact may to change their creative direction. influence who’s chosen as the next creative directors for In the past year, Alexander Wang left Balenciaga, Raf Simons older houses. Though millennials may not be a luxury brand’s target left Dior, and Alber Elbaz left Lanvin, some controversially and market, their significant sharing-and-buying power makes it essential some on good terms. for established brands to build fanbases. In April, Yves Saint Laurent erased its Instagram posts Instead of dramatically altering a brand’s aesthetic to appeal to following Hedi Slimane’s departure and posted a single image of the younger audiences, older fashion houses have rebranded themselves new creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, dramatically marking through social media to relate to the massive millennial online the end of his reign. presence. They’ll collaborate with or feature a popular Instagram Despite the constant musical chairs of creative direction, a star to boost their own following or popularity. But this can come at a primary concern for some fashion critics is hiring designers who will price. Not all consumers are as accepting of the brand’s social media stay true to the house’s heritage rather than focus on profit margins. direction, even if their muses have a lot of followers. “I think it’s a mistake to completely lose the history of a house,” Balmain’s creative director, Olivier Rousteing, has often been Cutler says. “The new [look] that references the old…That’s when I criticized for dressing and focusing on the Kardashian family. Similarly, think houses are at their best.”

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Art and design converge. Syracuse students’ contemporary artwork complements this spring’s top trends. photographed by michael isenburg modeled by fiona lenz, chloe hanley styled by charlotte bickley, laura cabral, maya solo hair & makeup by julia welch

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“strive on - the control of nature is won not given” by stefan zoller, materials: acrylic on canvas

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“unfinished” by jenna krypell, materials: upholstered canvas, foam top & pants: conner ives

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“turned” by ilana wolfson, materials: paper towels, acrylic paint, black sewing string trench: reformation, bomber: helmut lang, jumpsuit: reformation

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“interactive form” by jenna krypell, materials: foam, styrospray, spraypaint top: victoria’s secret, pants: aqua

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As the style savvy become more conscious of the camera, critics wonder: are their outlandish ensembles artistic expression or simply a cry for attention?

____STREET SMARTS____ BYJACKIE HOMAN

@nytimesfashion

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om-poms. Feathers. Tassels. Technicolor faux fur jackets. Stripes on stripes on even more eye-straining stripes. Looking through photographs of street style from the fall/ winter 2016 fashion shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, it’s clear that outrageous fashion is all the rage. Or maybe it’s simply all that is caught on camera. Fashion week street style photography has taken over the industry, as journalists critique these looks almost more than the actual shows. The trend began as an authentic way to capture the most stylish outfits. Naturally, photographers found that the style savvy brought their best during the major fashion weeks. Now, however, some fashion editors are saying that fashion week street style has become basic—that people try too hard for the photograph, their artificial looks used only to achieve some level of fame. In an essay for Man Repeller, Cosmopolitan.com editor Amy Odell writes: “Basic is putting on something you think is unique, showing up to fashion week and then realizing everyone around you also looks like a walking circus tent.” Odell goes on to talk about an experiment she performed while working for The Cut. Sporting some Miu Miu and a Chanel bag, Odell, typically not caught on camera, set out to discover if she too could capture the attention of street photographers. It worked. Dozens of lenses pointed her way. That experiment, Odell explained, demonstrates the paradox of fashion week street style. If you go dressed authentically, photographers won’t pay attention to you. But if you dress outlandishly in recognizable designer pieces, others will label you as desperate for attention. Erin Cunningham, senior fashion editor at Refinery29, says

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although she thinks fashion week street style photography has become oversaturated and overdone, it still holds purpose, especially for the commercial aspects of the industry. “I think it has taken away from the actual shows, which is the purpose of fashion week. But at the same time, when people look at the runways, they can’t imagine themselves wearing those clothes. Street style makes it feel more relatable and brings it to the masses,” Cunningham says. Opening up the fashion industry to a wider audience has been an important result of street style blogging. Scott Schuman became one of the first street style bloggers when he founded The Sartorialist in 2005. Since then, the concept has been mimicked over and over. While the huge quantity of street style blogs today makes fashion accessible to anyone with an internet connection, their popularity has made the entire idea seem stale. Still, Schuman remains confident about his daily muses. “These are fashion people, all getting together twice a year to look at the new collections. Fashion people always get dressed up, especially if they know a lot of other fashion people will be at an event,” he says. “These are people that dedicate their life to style, fashion, and the arts. People are just more aware of this subculture than they were before.” Schuman says that while these editors and bloggers are obviously getting dressed to go to fashion week, that doesn’t make them fake —it simply shows they love what they do. Cunningham also explains that while some people are clearly getting help with their outfits and borrowing designer clothes, it is fairly easy to spot who is who. “I think you can tell by looking at a picture whether someone put that on themselves or is trying to look that way,” she says. When getting photographed, designer labels may not matter. Schuman’s process for choosing subjects does not include looking for particular clothing items, but rather “seeing and recognizing a moment and letting [himself] react to it.” He believes there are three things that make a great photograph: the character and personality type of the subject; his or her overall style, including color combinations and beautiful silhouettes; and the environment’s lighting. Not everyone getting photographed thinks about the labels either. Jenny Walton, an illustrator who works alongside Schuman at The Sartorialist, is a regular street style subject. For Walton, her priorities when choosing what to wear for events like fashion week stem from practicality. “My number one concern is what I can fit into one suitcase,” she says. “The main thing I’m thinking about is how I can make the most interesting combinations and pairings out of as few pieces as possible by mixing and matching them together.” Cunningham acknowledged that fashion week street style has become more practical in the past couple of seasons, saying that she has observed fewer crazy stilettos and more sweatshirts, comfortable shoes, and coats—especially in New York. This may reflect where street style is heading: towards a more relaxed atmosphere. Still, there will always be fashion people who want to dress up, and if there’s one time and place to do it, fashion week is it. “Everything goes in cycles, and I think right now, people are looking for more authentic and unique individual ideas of dressing,” Walton says. “It’s the photographer’s job to find those people with unique styles and bring beautiful and exciting images of them to you. Thankfully Scott [Schuman] is very good at that, and so long as there are new generations, there will always be new, fresh, and exciting ideas.”

“

__I think you can

tell by looking at a picture whether someone put that on themselves or

is trying to look that way.

—ERIN CUNNINGHAM

@gastrochic

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NEW I R E AM A N A C Fashion’s underdogs are ready to take over. BY ALEXIS MCDONELL 1973: the year American fashion took center stage. Five of the top American fashion designers—Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and Stephen Burrows—joined forces at the Palace of Versailles to face off against five of the most iconic French couturiers: Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior. The star-studded event featured a guest list of top names including Andy Warhol and the Princess of Monaco. The French came with a Cinderella-esque pumpkin coach, rocket ship, and a rhinoceros pulling a caravan, but the Americans countered with their best: 36 models, Broadway dancers, and Liza Minnelli. It was the American fashion revolution. Designs shifted to functional sportswear, and for the first time, international perception of American style progressed. Before the “Revolution” of ’73, Parisian maisons de mode set the trends and dressed the most influential women. American brands quite literally copied French designs. When America’s fashion elite were unable to travel to Paris during WWII, they formed their own “Press Week” in search of inspiration, which later became New York Fashion Week. During the Versailles presentation, American designers challenged their European contemporaries by emphasizing ready-to-wear, sportswear, and fashion

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FEATURES blouses. Designers are experimenting with silhouettes, androgyny, and color to create simpler, edgier looks that are often rooted in pop culture. They’re less posh and more practical. “Generally, all around the world, the idea of luxury being formal is disappearing. For many years, luxury meant formality,” says Stuart Vevers, Creative Director of Coach. “Everything from a t-shirt to a sweatshirt to a sneaker—they all come from references from American style. These pieces were created for people to do work in or to do sports in and I think that’s why they have become the way we dress today because they just work for us. They have an ease to them – a function.” Coach has always been considered a quintessential American brand, but with the hiring of a new head designer in 2014, the label decided to reposition its brand in hopes of taking a more fashion-forward direction, something more “cool and un-elitist.” Coach’s head designer told W magazine, the brand’s concept is “American luxury.” The brand now aims for quality products with good craftsmanship to make lasting relationships with customers. Even though Vevers is British, he’s obsessed with everything American, bringing American nostalgia into this year’s looks, but in a fresh way. Think biker jackets, leather backpacks, and bomber jackets. In their fall 2016 collections, other designers returned to past eras for inspiration, when political and social movements were often reflected in dress. “American fashion is generally much younger than European fashion. You’re often looking way back and sometimes it changes the way you create fashionable products,” says Vevers. Alexander Wang brought back grunge streetwear that was reminiscent of the “anti-fashion” movement of the ’80s. Even Wang’s show notes resonated with the past crusade’s message. They explain that his collection “deliberately opposes standard definitions of beauty and taste.” Wang mixed tweed skirt suits with leather shift dresses and jackets; corduroys embroidered with pole dancers with acidsplattered dresses; and marijuana leaf-printed jackets with belt-style chokers. Anna Sui aimed for a decade earlier, with a show that resembled the ’70s runway. With velvet flare pants, babydoll dresses, and technicolor jumpsuits, Sui calls her collection “Pop-sydelic.” Sui takes inspiration from pop artists, like Peter Blake and Richard Lindner. Many designers have played off of their own backgrounds, creating looks that are individual to their own experiences. In her most recent collection, Tory Burch looked to her equestrian background working on her family’s farmhouse in the Eastern coast. Burch showed off jodhpurs and velvet riding boots, horse-printed sweaters and silk dresses, and color blocked riding jackets with convertible harness bags. American fashion has no set definition. It’s highly individualistic—a mishmash of different styles, aesthetics, and influences. So while Europe may boast its luxurious haute couture houses, Americans can brag about being new and innovative. According to Vevers, “The French have chic, America has cool.” And who doesn’t want to be cool? illustrated by rachel wendell ZIPPED 25

as entertainment. Their new aesthetic gave women the freedom to express more of their individualistic styles. The names Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, and Marc Jacobs became synonymous with the haute couture houses of Armani, Balenciaga, and Versace. American designers hope to set themselves apart from the clean, structured style of European fashion. They gear their creations toward a modern, pragmatic, and sportier style heavily connected to contemporary nightlife, society, and celebrity. Ralph Lauren took the style of the English aristocracy and adapted it into the quintessential all-American polished prep. Donna Karan simplified the woman’s wardrobe with the concept of “seven easy pieces”—effortless, wearable garments that could be mixed and matched to transform the look of the everyday woman. Marc Jacobs—perhaps one of the most versatile designers—touched on every end of the fashion spectrum, constructing collections that mix grunge, classics, and couture all in one. Oscar de la Renta created silhouettes distinctly modern, but also romantic and ultrafeminine, reflecting his grounding in both American sportswear and European luxury. Calvin Klein, referred to as “America’s King of Clothes,” dominated the global fashion scene with minimal designs and wearable urban styles. Today’s designers have kept American sportswear flourishing, but have redefined it to fit the ever-changing fashion industry. Sportswear now includes everything from casual streetwear and anything denim to dressier looks, including tailored trousers and chiffon

photographed by allen chiu modeled by ana vendrell, sofia zavala styled by charlotte bickley, laura cabral, maya solo hair & makeup by julia welch, marilyn musterait sofia top: neiman marcus, necklace: h&m

Take a spring road trip in retro stripes, mock necks, and silk headscarves. 26

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ROUTE ‘66

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dress: forever 21, scarf: vintage right ana dress: reformation, scarf: j.crew, shoes: nine west, sofia dress: forever 21, jacket: coach, shoes: dolce vita

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vest: h&m, pants: dkny, sunglasses: house of holland, scarf: rockins right top: h&m, pants: american apparel, bag: louis vuitton, earrings: forever 21

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dress: nasty gal, top: rachel comey, shoes: stella mccartney right top: h&m, pants: topshop, bag: coach

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jacket: coach, top: reformation, pants: vintage, sunglasses: linda farrow, bag: vintage right sofia top: neiman marcus

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DAYDREAM Take your comfiest sleepwear out of the bedroom and into the streets. BY KAYLA ISAACS

ajamas in public—an idea once scoffed at— is shaking up street style, turning silks and cottons into a sunlight staple. “More than ever people want to look effortless while being comfortable in luxurious fabrics,” says Goldie Rush, an image consultant in New York City. Take a cue from three designers doing it right. The Matching Duo: Choosing a straightforward approach, Thakoon screams pajamas with a sky blue, stiff set. Lined with red piping, the no-button blouse tucked into capris hangs loose, hinting at sex appeal with skin-showing V-necks. To duplicate this head-totoe take, find a silk set that allows for breathing room. Choose a style with a capri bottom to complement pumps or pointed-toe flats. The Half Set: Balenciaga plays up a silk set with mismatched separates. With a billowing cream tank and loose, tan and white striped cream bottoms, the look removes the scandal of lingerie. “Mix up the pajama pieces with existing clothing items you already own,” says Rush. “For example, wearing a pajama robe like a blazer with jeans and heels is a good way to incorporate the trend.” For this subtly chic take, keep hair and makeup refined to remain daytime appropriate. The One Piece: Céline embraces sleepwear sensuality with heavy lace inserts atop slinky to-the-knee slips. In white lace and black satin, dresses are presented alone or pared down with trousers and concealing jackets. To make a Céline-like slip work in the a.m., fit is key. The shift should hit at or below knee level and shouldn’t hug the body. “Wear it with everything—heels, Converse, a belt, oversized jewelry—the combinations are endless,” Rush says. To make it casual, pair the dress with a blazer or army jacket and sneakers. For something more mature, keep makeup simple and jewelry minimal.

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photographed by allen chiu modeled by marie lawrence shirt: míshi new york, lingerie: allen chiu intimates

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TO CATCH A THIEF

FUNNY FACE

r g .u bfi .o

pinterest.com

RUNWAY Mugler, vogue.com SHOES Flirting Slippers, $310, Chiara Ferragni, chiaraferragni.com

RUNWAY Elie Saab, vogue.com CLUTCH London Box Clutch $54.22, Chi Chi, asos.com

ON THE REEL Zipped takes inspiration from famous films to connect Hollywood’s most iconic looks with this season’s runway favorites and their ready-to-wear complements.

LÉON THE PROFESSIONAL

le a rth

o.c o nel

RUNWAY Alexander Wang, vogue.com SHIRT Striped Organic Cotton T-shirt, $22.90, zara.com

d e v.v irtu a

ALMOST FAMOUS

RUNWAY Creatures of Comfort, vogue.com SHORTS Dark Vintage Ashley Boyfriend Shorts, $52.00, MOTO, topshop.com

ZIPPED

q+a ENDINGS

with Aliza Licht

Aliza Licht, former personality behind DKNY PR Girl, brought the Donna Karan New York brand to fame with her renowned Twitter presence. Becoming one of fashion’s most influential, Licht now runs Leave Your Mark, a strategic advisory company, and recently debuted her first novel. Licht chatted with Zipped to dish on all her favorites and share her top advice for students. BY ZOË MALLIAROS ZIPPED: How did you get your start in the fashion industry? ALIZA LICHT: I started as an accessories intern for Harper’s Bazaar. Z: How did you come up with the persona of DKNY PR Girl? A: I was inspired by Gossip Girl to be anonymous, but the personality was mine.

FAVORITE DESIGNER I can’t possibly pick. I love fashion too much!

FAVORITE CURRENT TREND

Z: How long did it take to gain a significant following? A: It was organic but steady growth. Within two years it had ammassed over 380,000 followers.

I don’t buy into trends. I always wear

Z: Define the power of social media: A: Social media empowers anyone to create a personal brand and network in ways they could have never imagined. The possibilities of who you can connect to are endless.

WARDROBE ESSENTIALS

Z: What are your goals with your new freelance work? A: I want to be eclectic. I love working with companies at the intersection of fashion and technology but I am also working on creative projects inspired by LEAVE YOUR MARK. Z: Your book Leave Your Mark discusses the importance of branding yourself. What would you say step number one in building your brand should be? A: Ask yourself what you want to stand for, be known for and how you want to be perceived. Then stick to that filter every time you post something. Z: Biggest lessons you’ve learned from your job at DKNY: A: A job is only as good as the people you work with. I was fortunate to work with some amazing people (starting with Donna Karan and Patti Cohen my boss and mentor) over the course of my 17 year career there. When they left the company last year, it was game over for me. Z: What advice would you give a Syracuse University graduate looking to go into the fashion industry? A: Value your network. The fashion industry is small and your reputation doesn’t follow you everywhere, it arrives before you do. 38

ZIPPED

what feels right to me.

The perfect little black cape, skinny pant

and platform high heels that you can wear all day.

FAVORITE VINTAGE PIECE I don’t do vintage. I want to be the first to wear anything.

FAVORITE ARTIST My walls are bare. I have a really

hard time with art. It takes too much commitment.

FAVORITE SPOT IN NYC

I love hotel bars. You can often find me at The Four Seasons, The Mark and Loews Regency.

FAVORITE PART OF THE JOB The creativity of it.

ENDINGS

zippedmag.syr.edu issuu.com/zippedmag facebook.com/zippedmag @zippedmagazine @zippedmag zippedmagsyracuse@gmail.com ZIPPED

SPRING 2016