ZIPPED SPRING 2015
SPRING 2015
ZIPPED staff
ISSUE 15 | ZIPPED MAGAZINE
BRIEFS
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6. GET THE LOOK Update your closet with military and menswear inspired pieces
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ENDINGS
HEAD OVER HEELS
FEATURES
The evolution of heel heights
from unrealistic standards
updo
12. DROP THE PLUS The industry’s shift away
38. TIE THE KNOT Your five-step guide to a new
8. SCENT STYLES RECONSTRUCTING 39.HEROINE CHIC 14. CLASSICS Zipped’s top style and fraSuperhumans take over grance picks
10. MAD ABOUT MATTE The three new ways to wear matte makeup
11. HIT THE SHEETS The beauty essential your skin needs
Introduce structure with these iconic accessories
fashion ads
20. DON’T SWEAT IT The athleisure trend dominating the streets
22. HOTEL CALIFORNIA Let rocker vibes take over your style
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Bridget top by Lung Ung, skirt by Natalia Forsey; Shuya top by Natalia Forsey, leggings: American Apparel
EDITORIAL Erica Hewins Editor-in-Chief Amanda Etkind Executive Editor Liz Lillie Managing Editor Danielle Martin Creative Director Liz Ferrari Kayla Isaacs Features Editors Jacqueline Homan Eliza Weinreb Associate Features Editors Natalia Forsey Lung Ung Fashion Directors Zoë Malliaros Associate Fashion Editor Aria Benzaquin Fashion Stylist Charlotte Bickley Contributing Fashion Stylist Juliana LaBianca Copy Editor Alyssa J. Ford Research Editor PHOTO & DESIGN Yerin Kim Danielle LaRose Art Directors Giancarlos Kunhardt Photo Director Kimberly Powell Photo Assistant BUSINESS & COMMUNICATIONS Alejandra Charrabe Publisher Vanessa Pearce Advertising Director Judy Lee Public Relations Director Laina Pisano Public Relations Assistant Nancy Oganezov Social Media Manager Danika Petersen Social Media Assistant FACULTY ADVISOR Melissa Chessher
LETTER from the editor
O
ne thing my mother taught me is that finding a passion and a purpose in life makes, and keeps, a woman strong. She has shown me that the greatest way to be strong is to become a leader. I grew up with this notion and strive to become as influential as she is. This issue, we decided to switch gears and focus on strong women. Don’t get me wrong, we are absolutely still a fashion and beauty magazine, but this time we decided to come back with a little edge. And the best part is, it happened organically. After the story ideas came in and the styles for the photoshoots were set, we realized that without even planning it, a theme had emerged: celebrating real women who challenge the norm. Even in the exclusive world of fashion, social media is making “untouchable,” famous figures acOf course the point of all of this is that fashion, cessible; breaking down barriers and revealing the people behind the personas. “Backstage Pass” (pg at its best, is an external reflection of who we are on 34) explains how fashion gurus, once put on ped- the inside. Power. Strength. Leadership. This issue is estals, are becoming more human thanks to social dedicated to women who view the world as limitless. media platforms, like Instagram and Snapchat. Enjoy! Creating connections between prominent fashion figures and everyday women has a profound efx, fect on fashion advertising. “Heroine Chic” (pg 39) commends the fashion industry’s shift in beauty standards from supermodels to superhumans: role models inspiring change everyday within society. Even our fashion shoot features bold looks and attitudes. In “Hotel California” (pg 22) we mixed a grungy, rundown motel with rad outfits and a carefree atmosphere to complement the powerful vibes Erica Hewins, of the magazine. And to make sure you’re exuding Editor-in-Chief strength from head to toe, we added a step-by-step guide on how to create the strong and secure knot hairstyle (pg 38). ZIPPED |
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Modeled by Maya Champion & Raquel Caruso
AMELIA LEIGH 754 S Crouse Ave Syracuse, NY 13210 (315) 396 - 0859 instagram: @ellemiabtq
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BEHIND THE SCENES
Take a look behind the camera lens to see the dynamic personalities that make up Zipped magazine.
At Zipped, we make sure to take good care of our models: we pick them up when they fall, we feed them when they’re hungry, and we provide them with moral support when the going gets tough. We like to give our fabulous fashion models pointers but still try to steal their spotlight for our 5 seconds of fame. Bridget and Shuya decided to take a break and braid Joe’s long luscious locks. Mary Kate, our matte makeup model, sasses the camera and goofs off between takes. Models aren’t the only ones who like to dress to impress. Lung gets cozy by wrapping himself in an over-the-top fur.
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GET THE LOOK BY DANIELLE MARTIN
MARC JACOBS
1 1. JACKET $102, House of Fraser Tommy Hilfiger; houseoffraser. co.uk 2. SANDALS $214, Free People; asos.com 3. BELT $19.90, Zara; zara.com 4. DRESS $299, H&M; hm.com 5. WATCH $135, Olivia Burton; asos.com 6. BAG $48, Nasty Gal; nastygal.com
ARMED & READY
THE SANDAL channel your inner warrior princess with these kneehigh Free People gladiators
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Command attention with these military-inspired pieces. 3 THE BELT secure the loops with just a slight tighten of this Zara belt
RALPH LAUREN
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6 THE WATCH time to soldier on and add this army green Olivia Burton watch to your wardrobe
CHANEL
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THE SHOE kick the boys to the curb in these platform MICHAEL by Michael Kors oxfords
1. SHOES $174.95, Michael Kors; michaelkors..com 2. RING $90, Kenneth Jay Lane; net-a-porter.com 3. BRACELET $120, AurĂŠlie Bidermann; net-a-porter.com 4. TOP $78, J. Crew; jcrew.com 5. BAG $125, Topshop; topshop.com 6. SHORTS $49.90, Zara; zara. com 7. BLAZER $59.95, H&M; hm.com
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BORROWED FROMTHE BOYS
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Try out these crisp and classic menswear looks for women. 7
DIOR
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THE SHORTS mix and match with your man in these Zara striped shorts
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SCENT STYLES
From fruity & floral to classic & carefree, our editors share their favorite spring and summer scents that suit their own personal style.
Cute & Carefree
The spring and summer seasons evoke a sense of carefree living. That’s why I think the best duo for this time of year is the fruity-floral fragrance Omnia Coral by Bvlgari and a pair of fun, patterned overalls. This radiant fragrance, bursting with notes of bergamot, hibiscus flower, and water lily emits a sense of cheerfulness, which is why it matches so well with a pair of youthful overalls.
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Bold & Glam
Dramatize your summer nights with a statement pair of heeled ankle booties and the alluring scent of Elizabeth and James Nirvana Black. The midnight blue velvet shoes stand out in any outfit, whether you wear a pair of black skinny jeans or a silk shift dress. Before leaving the house, use a spritz of Nirvana Black, with notes of violet, sensual sandalwood and rich vanilla, to warm up when the sun goes down.
Amanda Etkind Executive Editor
Sweet & Sophisticated If you want to look both sweet and sophisticated in the summer months then you’ll obsess over these pointed-toe pumps and Prada Candy fragrance like I do. The black, satin-finish pumps make them sophisticated enough to dress up, while the multicolor butterfly print makes them sweet enough to transition from spring to summer. Finish your look with a spritz of Prada Candy with delicious top-notes of caramel and vanilla—the perfect signature summer fragrance.
Liz Lillie Managing Editor
Fresh & Feminine
Effortless & Edgy
Summer is all about beating the heat, which is why festival dresses and Burberry Brit Sheer are the perfect combination. Both are lightweight, fresh twists on classics. The fragrance is the bright and youthful sister of the classic Burberry Brit, carrying soft notes of pink peonies and peach blossoms, while festival dresses are the new sundress, versatile and customizable in feminine silhouettes and flowing fabrics.
Channel your inner Kate Moss with Narciso Rodriguez For Her and an IRO leather jacket. This feminine and sensual scent is definitely for the rebellious, confident woman seeking adventure and has notes of musk, amber and rose petals. Style the jacket with, a T-shirt and a pair of your favorite jeans—you’ll have a look that exudes rocker edge with effortless flair.
Danielle Martin Creative Director
Natalia Forsey Fashion Director
Cool & Classic
For those who appreciate ripped denim and enjoy a fresh, woody scent, your taste is likely cool and classic. Pair a ripped denim jacket with any plain white T-shirt and dark wash jeans. Wear a fragrance, like YSL L’Homme, to combine contemporary luxury with timeless elegance. YSL L’Homme has sparkling notes of white ginger, cedarwood and vetiver.
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MAD ABOUT MATTE
BY AMANDA ETKIND Modeled by Mary Kate Coonan Makeup by Amanda Etkind
Say goodbye to gloss, shimmer, and shine and go for long-lasting makeup on your lids, lips, and tips.
LIDS For a subtly defined eye, give your shimmery shades a rest and try modern matte shadows. Andrea Reindl, SU’s Clinique Counter Representative, recommends sticking to neutral brown colors for a daytime look and smoking it up at night with a black shadow. To achieve the look, apply a light cream color all over the lid then sweep a dark brown shadow in the crease of your eye, blending upward toward your brow bone. “This technique opens up the middle of your eyelid, while adding depth and dimension to the crease,” says Reindl.
EYES (top to bottom) Melt Cosmetics Dark Matter Stack $48; meltcosmetics.com. Becca Ombre Nudes Eye Palette; sephora.com
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TIPS A matte manicure adds attitude and edge to any look. The newest polishes come in matte formulas and velvet finishes. Reindl says the trend looks best when worn in darker shades like rich purples, navies and almost-black shades, or modern neutrals like subdued mauves and cool taupes. Don’t have a matte formula at home? No problem—just swipe a matte topcoat over your regular nail polish. Make sure to wait until your nail polish is fully dry or you won’t have a totally shine-free finish.
LIPS Prepping your pout is essential when wearing a matte lip. Reindl suggests exfoliating your lips at night with a DIY olive oil and sugar scrub, or using an old toothbrush in circular motions to ensure a flake-free look. Follow with a petroleum-based product like Vaseline to seal in moisture. Before you apply your matte lip product, slather on a beeswax-based lip balm. Beeswax hydrates lips without adding slip, which can cause matte lips to look messy. Gone are the days of uncomfortable flaky lips. The latest matte formulas come in traditional lipstick bullets and liquid versions that leave a velvety smooth finish on the lips. Whichever you choose, it’s best to steer clear of super nude colors and opt for brighter, richer hues like fiery orange, classic red, or pink-toned purple.
LIPS (left to right) Stila Patina Stay All Day Liquid Lipstick $22; stilacosmetics.com. Kat Von D L.U.V. Everlasting Liquid Lipstick $20; sephora.com. NYX Cosmetics Morocco Soft Matte Lip Cream $5.99; ulta.com. TIPS (left to right) Essie Coat Couture Cashmere Matte Nail Polish $8.50; ulta.com. Topshop Whisper Matte Nail Polish $8; nordstrom.com. Essie Spun in Luxe Cashmere Matte Nail Polish $8.50; ulta.com. JINsoon ‘Matte Maker’ Top Coat $18; nordstrom.com.
HIT THE SHEETS
Ditch your traditional facemasks this spring for sheet masks—the latest Korean beauty trend to hit the states (Hello BB & CC creams!).
BY AMANDA ETKIND
When strapped for cash, sheet masks make an effective alternative to luxury facials. These single-use, product-soaked sheets fit perfectly over the contours of your face, and instantly target skin concerns like dehydration, dullness, acne, and signs of aging. Unlike their traditional counterparts, you don’t need to wash the product off after the recommended time is up. Just remove the mask and massage the remaining serum into your skin to reap the complexion-boosting benefits.
HELLO HYDRATION Perfect for a special occasion or when your skin needs some extra TLC, SK-II Facial Treatment Mask (SK-II.com, 1 for $17)—made from 100 percent cotton—is saturated with Pitera, the rock star ingredient found in the brand’s best-selling facial treatment Essence. Pitera, a clear liquid chock-full of vitamins, amino acids, and minerals, immediately awakens tired skin, leaving you with a healthy glow.
BRIGHTEN-UP Different from other sheet masks, like those made from cotton or microfiber, Dr. Jart+ Brightening Infusion Hydrogel Mask (Sephora, 1 for $7.50) has a gelatin-like texture that instantly cools and refreshes skin. This mask contains brightening-agents like vitamin C and licorice extract, which help diminish the appearance of dark spots, dark circles, and uneven skin tone.
BANISH BLEMISHES AND REDUCE SHINE Best for those with oily or acne-prone skin, Sephora Collection Green Tea Mask (Sephora, 1 for $6) absorbs excess oil, draws out impurities, and reduces the appearance of blemishes. This natural fiber mask contains green tea and willow extracts that possess purifying and soothing properties. Use bi-weekly for clearer, calmer skin.
PREVENT AND PLUMP For those looking to delay the inevitable effects of Mother Nature, give Karuna Age-Defying+ Face (Sephora, $8) sheet mask a try. While you can’t actually get rid of wrinkles, you can reduce your risk of getting them by consistently keeping skin hydrated. This natural wood fiber mask contains a powerful combination of hyaluronic acid, which helps skin retain moisture and collagen, known to firm skin, and promote healthy cellular turnover. ZIPPED |
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DROP THE PLUS The fashion industry breaks beauty standards by adding sizes and subtracting stigmas. BY KELLEY ROWLAND
From long legs, to thin waists to bodacious derrieres, the fashion industry and society’s perception of the ideal womanly figure consistently evolves.
THE EVOLUTION OF BEAUTY STANDARDS
1920
Too thin, definitely not in. Strong but curvy women were taking control of the workforce and their bodies as men went off to war. Fabric was rationed, hemlines went up, and legs were shown off.
Narrow hips and straight torsos were the body uniform for the flapper girls of the Roaring Twenties. Women embraced a more androgynous look and taped down their breasts to create a boyish shape.
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1940
1960
Supermodels like Twiggy abandoned curves in favor of a straight, slight frame. The Mod look of the early 60s—short shift dresses and go-go boots— highlighted thin legs, and svelte physiques.
Two full-figured women, Ashley Graham and Robin Lawley, rocked knockout bikinis on the glossy pages of this year’s Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition. The curvaceous and beautiful Denise Bidot strutted down the runway at Chromat’s 2015 Mercedes Benz Fashion Week runway show donning a cropped, strapless ensemble. Showstopper and full-figure model, Candice Huffine bared her backside in the sixth edition of CR Fashion Book. This influx of plus-sized representation in the media and fashion in 2015 indicates a shift in the ever-changing movement for acceptance of women’s bodies. Instead of conforming to the standards of beauty long withheld among industry influencers, models and designers alike are defining beauty on their own terms and driving the plus-size movement. Supermodel Emme, a Syracuse University alum and initiator of “The Fashion Without Limits Initiative,” is one example. With her support, SU’s School of Visual and Performing Arts began a competition in the fall of 2014 with the values of Emme’s movement in every stitch. Design students are working with dress forms that accommodate a range of sizes 12 and up, to create a gown that Emme will wear at a red carpet event. Starting with the core members of the industry, the designers set a foundation for the future of not just fashion design, but the values of the fashion industry. “A lot of companies have been holding back,” says Emme. “The reason why there hasn’t been a supply to demand up to this point is because of the negative stereotypes. Because of the misconception of the word ‘fat’ and all the value that’s put into that.” Within that stereotype lies the discrepancy between what body and clothing sizes can be considered “plus.” From a size 8 to a 14, what’s acceptable and what’s sought after can vary from agency to agency and diverges from the size of the average American woman, a 14. “Ultimately, the term ‘plus size’ becomes increasingly meaningless when used to categorize clothing sizes that the average woman wears. It does not accurately reflect the nature of the bodies it supposedly describes. The term ‘plus size,’ also, is loaded with huge cultural significance and plagued by the stigma of fat,” says Dr. Amanda Czerniawski, an assistant professor of sociology at Temple University and author of “Fashioning Fat: Inside Plus-Size Modeling.” Think fitness tapes and leg warmers. Fitness femmes toned their bodies with the help of aerobic exercise videos. Athletic but womanly was the ideal for the era of Jazzercise and shiny spandex.
This label is what full-figured women are fighting, and slowly but surely, changing. Before starting her own line and working behind the scenes of the industry, Emme stood in front of the camera and dealt with the oppression plus-size models often experience. Having the perspective of both a model and a designer has given her the opportunity not only to represent full-figured women, but also to advocate for their rights within the fashion industry. “I see a lot more opportunity in the big books, the big fashion magazines, where there was no mention, no imagery, about 15 to 20 years ago, but now there is. We’re seeing Vogue; we’re seeing Elle give a lot more curves credit. It’s really great to see the big books opening their aperture on what beauty is.” Alongside influencers like Emme, come models such as Tess Holliday, who’s #effyourbeautystandards, has over 500,000 posts on Instagram. A size 22, Holliday faces backlash for her weight, but as her followers, women of all shapes and sizes, post and hashtag photos of themselves, it shows that her movement is serving as a celebration of all bodies. Her proactive attitude and campaign landed Holliday a contract with Milk Model Management— a turning point for the body acceptance movement and the plus sized industry. She’s the first model of her height and weight to be signed by a modeling agency. Australian models also banded together this year for the campaign #droptheplus, that wants the term “plus-size” to be eliminated from the fashion vernacular. Stefania Ferrario, the face of Dita Von Teese’s lingerie line, posted via Instagram, “Let’s have models of ALL shapes, sizes and ethnicities, and drop the misleading labels. I’m NOT proud to be called ‘plus’, but I AM proud to be called a ‘model’, that is my profession! #droptheplus.” These women and their hard work show that there’s been significant progress in the body acceptance movement within the fashion industry. “I think what’s happening is that the women are speaking,” Emme says. The modeling business and garment industry are starting to become what these women and influencers have been hoping it would all along: one that accepts beauty not within certain constraints, but one that eliminates those constraints all together.
Back to the gym. Popstars like Britney Spears strove for washboard abs and lean frame. Spray tans were also a must.
1980
2000
1990
In response to the previous exercise era, the worshipped women of the 90s went for a waif, heroin-chic look. Skin and bones were the ultimate accessory.
2015
Healthy and strong, no matter the size. An emphasis has finally been put on health, instead of solely appearance.
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RECONSTRUCTING CLASSICS
These structured accessories will be the building blocks of your spring wardrobe.
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LEFT rings: Alexander McQueen RIGHT purse: Chanel
Photographed by Giancarlos Kunhardt Modeled by Luca Graham Hair & makeup by Lung Ung Styled by Lung Ung, Natalia Forsey, Aria Benzaquin, ZoĂŤ Malliaros ZIPPED |
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LEFT purse: Proenza Schouler PS1 bracelet: Cartier RIGHT purse: 3.1 Phillip Lim ZIPPED |
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LEFT purse: Proenza Schouler PS11 RIGHT rings: Alexander McQueen
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As jean sales plummet, activewear lunges forward, gaining recognition within the industry.
DON’T SWEAT IT
An unexpected style shift has happened. Classrooms are no longer filled with draping sweaters and rain boots, but instead with spandex and comfortable workout tops. The clothing we’ve worn and styles we’ve sought for half a BY LIZ FERRARI decade are moving to the backs of closets to leave room for fashion’s latest trend. Sports bras and sneakers, spandex and viscose—items that were once the bane of a young lady’s existence—are now fashion must-haves. The “athleisure” market, a term the fashion industry coined for everyday athletic wear, is currently the fastest growing category in women’s apparel. Financial analysts at Barclays predict this market will nearly double in size by 2020. Nike executives predict its women’s wear will continue to outpace its menswear, a concept that once seemed implausible, as women’s wear comprises less than 20 percent of the brand’s annual revenue. This past year, Levi’s announced their jeans sales fell, and attributed the decline to the rise in yoga pants and workout leggings. “The sports apparel market is expected to become a 178 billion dollar industry by 2019,” says
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Molly Gallagher, associate editor at Well and Good, the wellness-obsessed news and lifestyle media company. “This is all thanks to the growing popularity of things like the Ballet Barre workout, Soul Cycle, and CrossFit.” Stores across the country are scrambling to get athletic wear on their shelves and the market expanded far beyond traditional sportswear brands. High-end retailers like Net-a-Porter and Topshop are expanding their market, adding extensive workout wear lines to parallel their casual and formal ones. In 2015, Beyoncé will release her own workout wear line. World-renowned designers, like Alexander Wang and Christian Dior, are also creating high fashion athletic wear looks. In Chanel’s fall 2014 show, Karl Lagerfeld sent models down the runway in sneakers embellished with sequins, flowers, lace, and metallic fabric, making the ultimate couture statement. The show closed with Cara Delevingne strutting down the catwalk in a wedding gown and sneakers, giving the Chanel seal of approval that sneakers can be worn anywhere While interest in workout wear continues to
increase at staggering rates, studies show that fitness participation remains relatively stagnant. According to the Sports & Fitness Industry Association, which measures participation rates in six different fitness categories, found that in 2014, yoga participation increased only 4.5 percent from 2013, while sales of yoga apparel grew an astonishing 45 percent. Over the past five years, participation in individual team and racket sports declined, and participation in outdoor and water sports remained the same. Even without plans to exercise, students frequently wear leggings, sneakers, and sports bras, Gallagher says. But why are so many women flocking to workout wear? Surely it is comfortable, versatile, and relatively flattering, but how does this differ from casualwear of the past? Dawnn Karen, New York based fashion psychologist, believes it’s all about the perception of being healthy. Take a look at models and actresses; they are thin, but also sculpted and muscular. “Today’s trend is about being healthy,” explains Karen. “So many girls are wearing workout clothes so they can be perceived as fit and healthy, even though they have no intention of working out or heading to the gym. They wear workout gear to class and take selfies on treadmills, so outsiders view them as healthy and active, even when they aren’t.” So does this mean fashion’s newest trend is actually just faking us out? In some aspects yes, Karen points outs. It’s similar to wearing Spanx, casting us in the light of our best selves. Although not
everyone who wears athleisure necessarily works out, they are in fact more likely to do so than someone who doesn’t put on their sneakers in the morning. “For some people it’s a façade, but for other’s it’s a component of mood-enhancing dress,” explains Karen. Mood-enhancing dress refers to Karen’s motto of ‘styling from the inside out’ and addressing how internal factors affect external layers. “When wearing something you look and feel good in, it actually enhances your mood and can make you feel better about yourself.” Gallagher agrees with Karen on the impact of mood-enhancing dress. “If I’m in something I don’t feel confident in while working out, I tend to go to a place of self-hate. On the other hand, if I’m in my favorite printed leggings and workout top, I work harder and am prouder of what I’ve accomplished,” explains Gallagher. “It’s the same sentiment behind wearing your favorite outfit to a job interview, it changes the way you view yourself.” Brands like Lulu Lemon, Athleta, and Nike are making their styles look more like everyday wear, blurring the line between workout wear and casual wear. Aside from special occasions and nighttime attire, ‘athleisure’ dominates our campus and overall culture. Will we soon be seeing sports bras at bars and sneakers at formals, or is the fitness trend like every other: infiltrating our closets and devouring our wardrobes? That is, until the next big trend comes along.
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roll wi
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tops
L E T A I O H LIFORN CA ‘n’ om rock r f e u c Take a r. f leathe o s t o l and
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Shuya button down top: vintage, jean: ia Benzaquin, vintage, skirt by Ar lasses: Rayshoes: ASOS, sung Ban, bag: vintage Bridget t: IRO, shorts: Levi's, jacke ng , shirt: sweater: Helmut La l, shoes: Stuart Alternative Appare tage Weitzman, bag: vin Joseph s, jeans: jacket: Vintage Levi' Levi's, shirt: Uniqlo
Hair & makeup by Maya Champion & Lung Ung Styled by Lung Ung, Natalia Forsey, Aria Benzaquin
Photographed by Giancarlos Kunhardt Modeled by Bridget Hallinan, Shuya Xie, Joseph Kush ZIPPED |
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FASHION
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Shuya top by Lung Ung, skirt: Reformation Joseph shirt: Calvin Klein, jeans: Levi’s
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Bridget top by Lung Ung, skirt by Natalia Forsey, bag: vintage, necklace: Banana Republic Shuya top by Natalia Forsey, leggings: American Apparel RIGHT Bridget top: Free People, skirt by Lung Ung
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Bridget jacket by Lung Ung, shoes: Just Fab
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Shuya dress by Lung Ung, vest: vintage, hat: Goorin Bros Bridget jacket: vintage, top by Natalia Forsey, sunglasses: Ray-Ban NEXT PAGE Bridget jeans: Reformation, top: Reformation, vest by Erica Hewins Shuya pants by Erica Hewins, top by Natalia Forsey
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Illustrated by Maya Champion
BACKSTAGE PASS
Wanting to experience all that Paris had to offer, Syracuse UniverFashion’s elite opens its doors to reveal a softer side. sity fashion design student and blogger of The Kie Piece, Kiera HenBY ALYSSA J. FORD derson knew she couldn’t leave the fashion capital without visiting the original Chanel store. As she headed down the iconic Rue Cambon, a friend of hers noticed Carine Roitfeld, previous editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris and current editor of CR Fashion Book, standing outside the store, beneath the white Chanel awning. Without hesitation, Henderson approached the modelesque woman asking if she was, in fact, the real Carine Roitfeld. A soft-spoken voice confirmed that she was. The conversation between the fashion students and Roitfield flowed naturally. Henderson talked about her abroad experience while Roitfield smiled, listening intently. Before snapping a picture of the editor, which would soon be the envy of all her Instagram followers, Henderson was hit with a compliment from fashion’s most fabulous fashionista. “It was such a crucial moment for me, since I’m someone who’s pursuing a career in this industry,” says Henderson. “It’s crazy to me how we look at people in the fashion world, like Carine and Anna Wintour, and assume they have this scary persona. Carine was such a sweetheart.” If you visit Roitfeld’s Instagram page, you’ll see pictures of extravagant fashion shows and avant-garde outfits, along with candids
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of Carine and her granddaughter, Romy. In decades past, editors, Social media outlets like Twitter, Instagram, and more recently, designers and models weren’t people. They were stone-cold divas; Snapchat, allow people to keep up with fashion’s elite. These outlets admired, but feared by fashion’s followers. allow for transparency in an otherwise exclusive world. In the 90s, the fashion industry was impermeable. It had a repu“You have people like Rachel Zoe posting about her life, her kids, tation of being high profile, exclusive, and exceptionally mysterious. and her husband, which aren’t things people are intimidated by,” Only the most influential in the fashion industry were invited to sit says Tyra Booker, founder of the YouTube channel Fashion With Ty front row at fashion shows. However, in the last decade, the view of and Syracuse University public relations major. “She’s a person who fashion’s leading men and women has completely changed due to started in fashion and latched on to different components of the inthe rise of social media and the digital age. dustry, making her a more approachable person.” “The fashion industry has had to Designer and creative director of Chanel shift to stay relevant in the face of all Karl Lagerfeld uses social media platforms these new media forms,” says Lauren to show brand personality and current obMatina, a freelance fashion stylist who sessions, like his beloved cat Choupette, has worked with Downtown Magazine, while editor-in-chief of Lucky and digiBetter Homes and Gardens, and Citizen tal-age diva Eva Chen shows snippets of Brooklyn. “You see social media posiher daily routine. From Instagramming pictions that didn’t exist 10 years ago, a tures of her accessory combinations in the huge amount of money and effort becar to Snapchats of precious moments with ing poured into blogger relations, and her newborn, Ren, Chen has given her fans a real focus on digital brand identity.” more than just magazine-centric posts. Social media outlets and videos, “As a culture, we associate with and along with magazines, have allowed emulate people we like. And to like peothe public to view fashion’s leaders ple, we have to know them or know about through a different lens. them,” says Jean Henry, a Syracuse Uni“Fashion has always had this mysversity professor in VPA’s fashion design tique and appeal,” says Todd Conover, department. “What better way to have an a Syracuse University professor in the appreciative audience than to share your School of Visual and Performing Arts’ persona through a river of Tweets, videos, fashion design department. “The fact likes, and pins.” that it’s more readily available and Supermodels are also among the fashion magazines and social media act as the elite who share their lives with followers. catalyst is the appeal. It’s something we Karlie Kloss is known for uploading 15-secTODD CONOVER can all be a part of.” ond videos of herself strutting down the Documentaries, such as “The Tents,” catwalk and pictures of her workout rouoffer a behind-the-scenes look into the once opaque fashion industry. tines. Jourdan Dunn, Cara Delevingne and Kendall Jenner, all avid “The Tents” gives viewers a backstage pass to fashion week, inviting Instagrammers with millions of followers, post backstage selfies with them to join the most exclusive VIP club. It features honest interviews designers and at home with family. with designers Betsey Johnson, Carolina Herrera, and Isaac Mizrahi, “I think we see models as nonhumans, unlike ourselves, and when revealing that even the most notorious fashion icons get butterflies in we see them doing normal things, it makes them more relatable,” their stomachs. “The Tents” unmasked fashion’s most famous faces. Booker says. More recently, fashion editorial fans were buzzing with exciteWe can thank social media and developments in today’s digital age ment when Vogue.com released a video in September 2014 of Anna for busting the fashion industry open. It seems less intimidating now Wintour answering 73 personal and professional questions. This that outsiders have a deeper connection to the industry. five-minute video not only featured one of the industry’s most sought “You have to stay relevant to survive in fashion. These designers, after interviews, but also granted viewers access to Wintour’s world. stylists, and editors know that,” says Matina. “As long as social meFor a brief moment, the ‘ice queen’ took off her black frames and dia is how we are communicating, that’s what you’ll see the fashion seemed quite warm. industry doing.”
“FASHION HAS ALWAYS HAD THIS MYSTIQUE AND APPEAL. THE FACT THAT IT’S MORE READILY AVAILABLE AND MAGAZINES AND SOCIAL MEDIA ACT AS THE CATALYST IS THE APPEAL. IT’S SOMETHING WE CAN ALL BE A PART OF.”
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1970’S: HIGH HEELED PLATFORMS In 1977, John Travolta stole the spotlight in a pair of chunky, heeled platforms and bell-bottom pants on the set of “Saturday Night Fever.” The 3-inch tall shoes help him win the disco dance competition and the attention of swooning girls. 1700’S: MULES An early hybrid between a pump and a slipper, these open-back, 2-inch heels symbolize playful promiscuity in Jean-Honoré Fragonard’s 1766 painting “The Swing.” Famed shoe designer Manolo Blahnik credits “The Swing” for inspiring his mule conception in the 1980s.
1930’S: WEDGES
1950’S:
HEAD OVER HEELS From platforms to flatforms, fashion’s most flattering shoe still stands tall. BY CHRISTINA TIBERIO Illustrated by Lung Ung
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STILETTOS AND KITTEN HEELS
Italian shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo gets creative with wartime rations and makes the first cork wedges. The most successful of Ferragamo’s cork designs was the rainbow wedge, a 4.5-inch chunky, multicolored heel.
In “The Seven Year Itch,” sex symbol Marilyn Monroe stands over a grate and pushes her flowing white wrap dress down as a train speeds by underneath and reveals her 3-inch strappy stilettos. With the same basic aesthetic as a stiletto, kitten heels are 1.5 to 2 inches and originally designed for preteen girls who are not ready for the steeper heel.
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1990S: PLATFORM SNEAKERS Baby Spice Emma Bunton makes teen girls everywhere “wannabe” her in 4-inch rubber platform sneakers and a pastel babydoll dress.
TODAY: HEELS OF ART With unique materials, complex designs, and quirky concepts, high heels have come to be works of art. Visionary designers like Nicholas Kirkwood, Charlotte Olympia, and Sophia Webster turn once simple shoes into works of moving art.
Models at Alexander McQueen’s 2009 runway show reached new heights in the designer’s signature 10-inch armadillo heels. These shoes originally came in leather and reptile skins, but 2009: ARMADILLO HEELS were later bedazzled for Lady Gaga‘s “Bad Romance” music video.
2010: FLATFORMS
2011: SNEAKER WEDGES Isabel Marant popularized the 2-inch hidden wedge sneaker in 2011, but today refuses to wear her own design because of the high volume of knockoffs in the market.
First seen on Derek Lam’s spring 2011 runways in fall 2010, flatforms quickly became the music-festival goer’s go-to shoe. Strong opinions regarding the flat, thick-soled platform were formed within the fashion community, and ABC News eventually deemed the style the “Most Dangerous Summer Shoe.”
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TIE THE KNOT
Take a break from your average messy bun and give this cool-girl hairstyle a try; you might just fall in love. BY AMANDA ETKIND Modeled by Kathryn Bailey Hair by Erica Hewins
1. Apply a frizz-fighting product like oil or smoothing cream to damp hair then blow-dry straight for a sleek finish. 2. Once hair is completely dry, spritz roots with your favorite dry shampoo to add a touch of body and a hint of texture. 3. Next, mist hands with a strong hold hairspray. Using fingers as a comb, pull hair back into a high ponytail and secure with a hair elastic—this acts as the base for the knot. 4. Once secured, create a loop by twisting the hair twice though the center of the ponytail leaving the ends of your hair out. 5. Finish off with a little extra hairspray and you’re left with an effortless lived-in look.
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HEROINE CHIC
Role models take the place of real models as fashion advertising goes less glamour, more power. BY TAYLYN HARMON
T
humbing through my March issue of Vogue, I spot something erful in these ads? Accordout of the ordinary: an elderly woman in a Celine advertise- ing to Fashion Institute of ment. Technology advertising and The pale, white-haired dame had every wrinkle and age spot on her marketing professor and skin, with no apparent retouches in place. Sporting a Steve Jobs-es- consultant Jeffrey Buchman, que turtleneck and a pair of oversized sunglasses on her expres- they’re just cool.“They were sionless face, this woman prompted just one thought: “Damn, she cool when they were young, looks so badass.” and they’re cool now,” says After searching the fashion realm on social media, I discovered Buchman. “There’s also this this woman to be literary legend and memoirist Joan Didion. ‘I don’t care what you think’ Didion, a hero amongst the writing community, was brought attitude that not many can into the realm of fashion to inspire those young and old with project.” both her gratuitous body of work and The women on the pages appearing her ageless beauty. self-assured and powerful, like the su Some weeks before seeing Celine’s perwomen they are, is what makes these ad, I spotted 93-year-old style guru Iris advertisements striking. Showing the grace Apfel next to 19-year-old Rookie ediand confidence within everyday women, tor and stage actress Tavi Gevinson in especially older women, is beyond revoluan Alexis Bittar jewelry ad. The two tionary. Portraying beauty beyond physical looked so effortlessly cool I did not appearance is what will continue to make JEFFREY BUCHMAN think twice about their age difference Celine and NARS well-respected household and atypical model appearances. As I names. saw more impressive, powerhouse women grace the pages Taking the superhuman concept further, what will it take to see of high-profile magazines in place of supermodels, including trans-woman actress and activist Laverne Cox or girls’ education 69-year-old actress Charlotte Rampling for NARS Cosmetics, I advocate Malala Yousafzai in place of Karlie Kloss or Joan Smalls? realized this wasn’t just a one-time gimmick. There is some- Fashion advertisements have extraordinary power in dictating the thing incredibly refreshing about non-models in fashion, and beauty ideals of our time, though remain fluid enough to be swayed when that person happens to be your hero, it makes it all the by consumer opinion. According to fashion photographer and Syramore exciting. cuse University professor Dr. Lawrence Mason, Jr., consumers want “Women are looking for a feeling of empowerment,” says a balance of fantasy and realism, but unfortunately, realism often Doug Wonders, a photography professor at Syracuse Univer- gets the short end of the stick. sity and former Women’s Wear Daily contributor. “It’s not just “I think there’s a fine line where you may cut out too much of the the young supermodels who are concerned with appearance. fantasy,” says Mason. “If they cut too much of the fantasy, it can hurt You are as beautiful as you feel.” brand sales.” It can be difficult for the average woman to identify with Despite the huge win for body and age diversity in fashion adverporeless, mile-long-limbed models. Replacing the supermod- tising, we’ll let the sales speak for themselves. As far as my support el with the “superhuman” is a phenomenal trend in fashion goes, any brand that believes in the power of women’s accomplishadvertising as well as a true win for consumers and the brand. ments outside of physical beauty is worth more than any pretty So what is that “it-factor” characters like Didion, Apfel, penny can buy. and Rampling possess that makes their presence so pow-
“THEY WERE COOL WHEN THEY WERE YOUNG AND THEY’RE COOL NOW”
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ZIPPED SPRING 2015