October Issue 3 2015
Fashion
W W W. Z I W I R A . C O M
BUILDING A GREEN FUTURE
SUSTAINABLE
Luxurious, ReďŹ ned
& Ethical
The Story behind
Modern Minerals Makeup The founder of the company, Diane Read, speaks to Ziwira about her inspiration, the launch of new products and even shares some beauty advice.
LIVE LIKE A BALLERINA When Misty Copeland was promoted to Principal Dancer of the American Ballet Theatre, she broke the boundaries of diversity, sending the message that anyone can be beautiful. But why is the life of a ballerina so
Cover Photo: Sarath Surendran
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this season Plus : OOOH MAMA....Sustainable fashion picks you just got to have 1 | October Issue 3 2015
CONTENTS green scen e 06 NEWS AND EVENTS
BE AUTY 08 EYE WISH… Your skin is fragile and precious, and requires care and natural remedies. Try some of our organic, natural, and vegan makeup syggestions; from cruelty-free eyeliner, to mineral eyeshadow.
10 THE STORY BEHIND MODERN MINERALS MAKEUP
Modern Minerals promises beauty that is Earth conscious, and products that are gentle on the skin. Founder, Diane Read, spoke to us about her inspiration, and offered some naturalist beauty advice.
COVER STO R Y
08 lifestyle 20 LIVE LIKE A BALLERINA When Misty Copeland was promoted to Principal Dancer for the American Ballet Theatre, she broke the boundaries of diversity, sending a message that anyone can be beautiful and elegant.
12 LUXURIOUS, REFINED & ETHICAL FRAGRANCE DU BOIS
Fragrance du Bois is a niche perfume brand that manages to exceed your expectations of scent, all the while boasting a commendable appreciation of the environment. We caught up with the Fragrance du Bois team, who shared their ‘bespoke’ experience.
F EAT UR E 18 TOPSHOP SAYS “NO” TO WASTE
AND “YES” TO CONTEMPORARY UPCYCLING
British-based international clothing brand Topshop, has captivated the naturalist world with their ‘Reclaim to Wear’ partnership collection, and upcoming ‘Topshop Reclaim’ collection, supporting prosperous, ethical fashion.
IN FOCUS 24 KE$HA STANDS FOR #BECRUELTY FREE COSMETICS
The “TiK ToK’ singer has release a video where she pledges her support to the #BeCrueltyFree campaign, which admirably opposes beauty products that have been tested on animals.
men’s fashion
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26 FROM HANDCRAFTED ORGANIC JEWELRY, TO KELLY SLATER’S OUTERKNOWN
Our Staff Writer, Zane Small, has you covered on how to complete your eco-look for the coming season.
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October 2015
green sh o ppin g 30 OOOH MAMA!
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Check out our sustainable fashion must-haves for the coming season; from Stella McCartney’s Falabella Eyewear, to Terra Urbana’s organic cotton coats.
32 SIMPLE SHOES MAKES A GRAND COMEBACK
Denis Ryan, a footwear veteran, acquired the famous Simple Shoes trademark and intellectual property rights from Deckers last year, and plans to officially relaunch the company.
trends 42 THREE FASHION ICONS WHO RECYCLE THEIR BEST LOOKS
First Lady Michelle Obama, Her Highness the Duchess of Cambridge, and Dame Helen Mirren, are three fashion icons who unashamedly recycle their best looks.
interview
46 THE FUTURE LOOKS BRIGHT FOR
DUBAI’S ETHICAL FASHION INDUSTRY
We caught up with Ayesha Siddequa, Founder and Creator of Future Fashion, to discuss her strong passion for ethical fashion, and her website which hosts a range of stunning eco-labels.
G R EEN TE C H
entertainment
38 SPINALI DESIGN’S
50 THE TRUE COST
COMMUNICATING BIKINI COULD SAVE YOUR SKIN
French designer, Marie Spinali, has designed an innovative bikini that warns its user via text message, when they’ve been exposed to too much sun.
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A documentary film about the dark side of the fashion industry, which we all buy into in horrifying numbers.
TRAVEL DIARIES 52 CRAVING FOR CROATIA Feeling opressed by the pressures of suburban life? Escape to Croatia, a land of natural beauty, ancient history, magnificent beaches, and of course, siesta!
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October Issue 3 2015
COVER STORY
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BUILDING THE FUTURE
Publisher Ziwira CEO and Founder Adam Merza adam@ziwira.com Editorial Saba Khan saba.khan@ziwira.com Imran Khan imran.khan@ziwira.com Nasreen Rasool nasreen.rasool@ziwira.com Zane Small zane.small@ziwira.com Marketing Nadir Khan nadir.khan@ziwira.com +971 56 7481747 Design Asif Habib asif.habib@ziwira.com Fahad Balabhai fahad@ziwira.com Head Office Techno Hub Building, Office No. 161-162, PO Box No. 341171, Dubai Silicon Oasis, UAE. USA Office Ziwira Inc. 445 Park Avenue 9th Floor New York City
OCTOBER 2015
EDITORIAL The colossal green movement taking place globally in the past few years has spawned a new veer of organic products. Be it healthy food, cosmetics, or fashion, organic can be found in almost all the possible categories of merchandise. It came as no surprise to me when I found out about organic perfumes! Yes perfumes too, have gone organic. Before industrialization and commercialization, perfumes were made of natural ingredients, however, this changed with time and the natural products were substituted with chemicals and synthetic ingredients. Our cover story this month is all about -Fragrance du Bois – the organic French perfume brand with a branch in Dubai. Turn to pg no 12 to unfold the full story. Dubai is still stabilizing its fashion roots. It didn’t take long for the global fashion industry to catch on to Dubai’s glamorous lifestyle and attractive malls. But rest assured ethical lovers, our nation is not short of aspiring individuals pioneering to create a sustainable fashion industry. Our writer Zane met Ayesha Siddequa, the Founder and Creator of Future Fashion, to discuss her website and her passion for ethical fashion. To read more go to pg no 46. Pick up some organic handcrafted jewelry (pg no 30), latest eco-fashion clothing (pg no 26) and creative fashionable shoes (page no 34), all showcased in this issue of Ziwira. Communicating with your bikini? It sounds ridiculous! But in this age of technology and progression, nothing is impossible. All around the world people love to bathe under the sun to build up their golden tan – even when we are all aware of the damaging consequences. In a leap of hope, French designer Marie Spinali has designed a bikini that warns its user when they’ve had too much of a good thing. Go to page no 38 for the complete story. Also, don’t miss out our travel story about exotic Croatia, and our piece on the blonde “TiK ToK” singer, Ke$ha, the green celeb for this month on page no 24. We hope you enjoy reading this edition. Cheers!
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October Issue 3 2015
COVER STORY GREEN SCENE
NEWS & EVENTS ORGANIC UNDERWEAR FOR NORWEGIAN SOLDIERS Sustainable fashion isn’t exclusive to the glamorous! In fact, it is even reaching military forces. In Norway, military personnel will be kitted out in organic cotton underpants and bras in the future, according to BBC, after the logistics division signed contracts with eco-clothing providers. “We think this is really great, and we have done tests to show that this underwear is nice to wear,” said spokesman Simen Rudi. “This is of course very important for soldiers in the field.” Sure, kitting out soldiers in organic cotton will be more expensive overall, but “we aren’t thinking about a lot of money per unit,” Rudi added. It’s a great deal for the local organic clothing manufacturers, who are expecting to provide the armed forces with 50,000 pieces of underwear annually.
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H&M RELEASES VIDEO ENCOURAGING CLOTHING RECYCLING Stars come out to play in H&M’s new sustainable fashion video. The Swedish brand has launched their new initiative Close the Loop, a collection of 10 denim pieces made from textiles recycled from the Garment Collecting initiative. The reborn pieces feature in the new film directed by Max Vitali, and starring faces include Daniel Lismore, Iggy Pop, along with Holliday and Sciortino. The video finishes with a powerful statement: “There are no rules in fashion but one: Recycle your clothes.” Back in 2013, H&M launched their Garment Collecting initiative, which allowed shoppers to exchange a bag full of unwanted garments for a $5 voucher in any store. Since then, over 14,000 tons of clothing have been collected globally. The brand is changing the wasteful reputation that clings to the fashion industry.
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PAMELA ANDERSON CONDEMNS MAC COSMETICS FOR ANIMAL TESTING The actress best known for her role on the Baywatch series, wrote a strongly worded letter to MAC, expressing outrage that the company does in fact test products on animals in countries that legally require it for imported cosmetics, after priding itself on providing cruelty-free products. “We’ve known each other for a long time, and I’ve always admired you for embracing MAC Cosmetics as a pioneer in cruelty-free makeup,” Anderson wrote in the letter. “That’s why I was so proud to be a Viva Glam MAC girl in 2004. But the buzz is much different now, and you know I can’t bite my tongue.” MAC said in a statement, “We do not test our products or ingredients on animals, or ask others to test on our behalf, except where required by law.” Anderson, 48, has urged the company to stop selling to China, noting she still has “faith” in the brand.
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THE NORTH FACE PLANS TO RECYCLE 100,000 POUNDS OF TEXTILES Clothing recycling has taken a revolutionary leap forward, thanks to a nationwide roll-out of “Clothes the Loop,” a take-back/recycling program designed by The North Face to divert textiles from the landfill. Two years after the outdoor-apparel company pilot-tested the scheme at select locations, Clothes the Loop is now available at all 83 of The North Face retail and outlet stores across the United States. The move couldn’t come at a more opportune time. American’s throw away approximately 24 billion pounds of post-consumer textile waste every year, according to the US Environmental Protection Agency. That number, by nearly all accounts, is only getting bigger. The Clothes the Loop process involves collecting items that are sent to a recycling center where they are sorted into more than 350 categories that determine if they’re to be re-worn, repurposed, or recycled into raw materials for products such as insulation, carpeting, stuffing for toys, or even clothing and shoes.
G-STAR RAW ADOPTS FOREST-FRIENDLY PRACTICES Dutch clothing brand G-Star is making significant changes for environmental betterment. G-Star, which previously collaborated with “Happy” singer Pharrell Williams on a line of ocean-plastic apparel, has pledged to use only forest-friendly fibers in its rayon and viscoe clothing range. With guidance from Canopy, a forestry nonprofit company whose “Fashion Loved by Forest” campaign has earned the support of retailers such as Eileen Fisher, H&M, Levi Strauss, and Patagonia, G-Star has announced that it will work to eliminate any wood-based fibers from illegally logged sources, ancient and endangered forests, and any species listed in the IUCN Red List as critically endangered, or vulnerable. A representative of the brand stated, “Even though our main material is cotton, we are aware of the growing use of forest-based fabrics in apparel supply chains. G-Star is committed to ensure that the raw materials used in our products are manufactured in a responsible way that preserves natural resources and respects human and animal rights.”
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October Issue 3 2015
BEAUTY
Organic long-lasting Maxi Lash Mascara from Zuii.
EYE WISH‌ Be kind to those precious eyes and opt for more natural, organic ingredients when choosing your eye make-up.
With a little searching, you will ďŹ nd that organic brands come in all the latest colors and innovative trends as mainstream makeup, just minus the harmful chemicals or animal fur. The products listed here are organic, allnatural, vegan and 100% safe for your eyes. Plus they have all you could wish for in a make-up brand. October Issue 3 2015
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Certified Organic Eyeliner from Inika. Handcrafted with natural plant ingredients and mineral color blends. Soft, creamy texture that wears all day without smudging. Plus it has a
Lavera liquid eyeliner is all-natural, vegan and cruelty free. Made in Germany.
built-in pencil sharpener in the lid! It’s also certified vegan, certified Halal and certified cruelty-free.
Vegan Mineral Mascara from Inika in Velvet Black or Velvet Brown. Pure and natural, it’s absolutely safe even for the most sensitive eyes.
Steel Blue, vegan mineral eyeshadow from Inika. Also available in other trendy colors.
Certified organic quad eyeshadow palettes and single-color eyeshadows from Zuii. Made with a floral blend of rose, chamomile and jasmine powders, enriched with vitamins and minerals.
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October Issue 3 2015
BEAUTY
THE STORY BEHIND
MODERN MINERALS MAKEUP Modern Minerals promises beauty that is Earth conscious and products that are gentle on the skin. The founder of the company, Diane Read, spoke to us about her inspiration, the launch of new products, and even shares some beauty advice. Q. Is there a story behind Modern Minerals? What inspired you to start the company? After spending a few years living and traveling in Europe and Asia, I returned home, feeling exhausted and needing to rejuvenate. I began to rethink my diet, what I put on my skin and my connection to the environment. My mother and grandmother (104 years + vibrant) have always looked to organically grown foods and spiritual wellbeing for beauty. This encouragement inspired me to further explore what natural beauty meant to me. Growing up, my sister, a makeup artist and I have always had a passion for cosmetics. I began to explore and read about ingredients. I wanted to find more natural and organic options. As I began to research ingredients, I learned about the cruelties involved in animal testing, using unnecessary animal products such as animal fur used for makeup brushes. I only wanted to use products that were kind as well as safe. This was when Modern Minerals came into existence, encompassing all of these elements that I felt represented beauty. To me, beauty depends on what we put October Issue 3 2015
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on our skin, what goes into our bodies, and how we can empower ourselves with thoughtful choices and living gracefully on this earth. Q. So far, you’ve only done powders. Lip gloss is a new introduction. Why is this? We have recently re-designed our collection. We have reformulated our eyeshadows and now Modern Minerals has come up with lip gloss too. We collaborated with Lotus Wei to lovingly create a special blend of goodness for our lip gloss that is smooth, non-sticky, with high shine and infused with a transformative flower/gemstone essence custom created by Katie Hess. This infusion incorporates emotive properties that are believed to transform your mood in positive ways and evoke positive feelings. This infusion of Pink Camelia flowers, gem essence of pink tourmaline, lavender, chamomile, rose and neroli were chosen because they best represent the core values of Modern Minerals: Love, inner strength, compassion, and living life in the present moment.
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Q. Where do you source your ingredients from? I work with a chemist here in the US to create and produce our new special products. Our new ingredients are organic in origin, although not certified organic at this time. They are carefully sourced from producers whom we trust and who share our values. Q. Can you share some top beauty tips/tricks with us? Our best beauty tip begins with overall wellness. Staying hydrated, eating clean foods that nourish healthy skin, sleeping well, and seeking inner peace and relaxation. Since skin is our largest organ and what we apply on it matters, we like to keep things simple, and make the face a canvas of health and glowing beauty. I believe makeup is best used to enhance our favorite features.
ditional Chinese Medicine and herbs, as well as advised me on my diet and ways to relax and rejuvenate. Working with Aimee has not only helped my skin to repair itself, but has also improved my overall health and well-being. I’ve used many different natural ingredients over the years which have helped me in many ways depending on the circumstances at the time. If my skin is damaged by acne scars or chemical and sun exposure, I would seek the professional advice of a dermatologist and doctor.
Q. What’s your take on BB creams? Similar to the purpose of BB creams, I believe that keeping skin moisturized and protected from sun exposure is very important. Since my skin changes depending on the season and where I am geographically at the time, I often modify the types of moisturizer I use and the levels of hydration I need at the moment. I prefer to customize my own moisture-protectionfoundation. Currently, I cleanse and moisturize my skin with Aimee Raupp Beauty’s Organic Argan Oil Facial Cleanser. Next, I apply Previse SunSheer Sunscreen Moisturizer made of natural and botanical ingredients, and so far the only sunscreen that doesn’t irritate my skin. It is also moisturizing and provides SPF 30 protection from the sun. Altogether this provides me an easy and natural custom base for my foundation, finishing powder and blush. To set everything in place and prepare myself for the day, I mist my face with one or two of Lotus Wei’s Energy Mists. Q. If we are aiming for a more natural, less is more approach to make-up, is blush really necessary? I love to use blush to give me an extra boost of color. Blush is also great to highlight cheekbones. With mineral makeup, we have the option to use just a little for a natural look. Modern Minerals offers a vegan-friendly face brush that can be used for blush, bronzer and foundation powders. The fibers are super soft and very light weight, making it easy to pick up a little powder at a time and apply just the right amount of makeup as required. Q. How should we be using bronzing powders? I like to use my bronzers when I want a sun-kissed look without exposing my skin directly to the sun. They are also great for contouring and highlighting when you want to add a bit of warmth to your natural glow. Q. If my skin has been damaged by acne, scars or chemical and sun exposure, is it possible for my skin to repair itself? What natural ingredients can help? When I first began to make the shift to natural beauty and wellness, fortunately I found Aimee Raupp, author, acupuncturist and herbalist. She helped in healing myself through Tra-
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Diane Read Q. What would you say are the most important makeup items every girl should have to enhance beauty rather than going over the top? The most important make-up items for a natural look would be a lightweight mineral foundation, a mineral liner that can double for brows, 3 favorite neutral eyeshadow colors (a light one for the base, a darker shade for the crease, and a favorite signature shade to blend). Last but not the least, some gorgeous color and shine for the lips. Q. How do I choose between a powder foundation and cream foundation? Is one better or more effective than the other? I believe this is a personal preference. What I love most about mineral foundation is that it is buildable, which helps to adjust the amount you want to use. When seasons change, our skin tone can change too. By blending my winter shade and my summer shade, I can custom create the perfect shade for any season. Q. What’s your favorite beauty product at the moment? If I can only choose one… I’d have to say my favorite beauty product is the Modern Minerals Lip gloss infused with Lotus Wei’s transformative flower and gemstone essence.
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COVER STORY
LUXURIOUS, REFINED & ETHICAL The perfect fragrance can be addictive and satisfying. Perfume is a luxurious item that has been around since the idea was refined by the Romans, Persians, and Arabs. But only till recently did perfume become associated with ethical practices. Fragrance du Bois is a niche perfume that manages to exceed your expectations of scent, all the while boasting a commendable appreciation of the environment. We caught up with the Fragrance du Bois team, who shared their luxurious bespoke experience.
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FRAGRANCE DU BOIS
“We pride ourselves on planting one tree every time we harvest a tree to replace it.” Dean Henry, CEO at Asia Plantation Middle East.
Photography: Sarath Surendran www.ziwira.com
COVER STORY
PRECIOUS AGARWOOD Fragrance du Bois stands as a partner company of Asia Plantation Capital – a company dedicated to becoming the leading provider and operator of sustainably managed forestry and agricultural plantations. The organization harvests teak, bamboo, bananas, chilies, maize, patchouli, vetiver, and most importantly, agarwood. The Aquilaria tree, the most important source of agarwood, is an indigenous species to the Southeast Asia region; found in countries such as India, Thailand, Malaysia, and eastwards to Papua New Guinea. It is the most important product behind the implementation of Fragrance du Bois, as it contains an essential ingredient for their perfume called oud oil, a byproduct of agarwood. It is an extremely valuable commodity that has been prized throughout history. Oud is extracted from the resinous heartwood or agarwood of tropical Aquilaria trees. The resin, known as oud or agarwood, is now one of the most important ingredients in the fragrance industry, with one out of eight major fragrances containing the substance. The global market for fragrance is estimated to be worth US$36 billion in 2017, as fragrance brands strive to find new and innovative ways to compete for greater market share. The Asia Plantation Capital Group’s business model is based on creating a vertically integrated business from the management of plantations to the inoculation, harvesting, distilling and processing of agarwood into a multitude of agarwood end products, including the highly prized oud oil. The organization possesses the necessary skills and expertise, which has put them at the forefront of research and development in inoculation methods where they have been able to successfully infect an entire Aquilaria tree with agarwood resin. Together with their impressive distillery plants and technology, the company has produced the finest oud oil and has successfully broken into the high-end perfume markets by establishing their very own perfume brand, Fragrance du Bois. The fragrance brand promotes sustainable forestry to prevent the ruthless exploitation of rainforest areas by using only sustainably sourced and certified products, with FDC, CITES or Rainforest Alliance certification, as applicable.
AGARWOOD FACTS Internationally traded commodity for more than 2,000 years. Prime products are oud oil, agarwood chips and powder. The most expensive wood in the world. Global demand, with primary markets in the Middle East, Asia and the Indian Subcontinent. Highly valued with the fragrance and personal care luxury goods markets. Prices have increased at a cumulative average annual rate of 12% between 1970 and 2008. Prices have increased from 1995 to 2008 at a cumulative average annual rate of 16%. Increased trade has given rise to concern that demand will outstrip supply. International trade is regulated and the species is protected by CITES (Convention on International Trade and Endangered Species).
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PROFESSIONAL PERSPECTIVE It’s through the scientific innovation of Asia Plantation Capital’s in-house scientists, that Fragrance du Bois was able to harness the luxuriousness of oud oil, without damaging the environment, and become a leading ethical fragrance brand. The company has built itself on the lucrativeness of oud, but managing to cultivate it ethically. “It’s really valuable,” said Eva Volodko, Senior Associate at Asia Plantation Capital, explaining the lucrativeness of oud. “To give you an idea, 1 liter of high grade oud oil is worth US$50,000, which is twice the amount of gold. The Aquilaria tree is almost extinct in the wild, so when something goes extinct, the price gets higher. We basically produce our own oud oil, which we use in our fragrances, as well as marketing to other brands as well.” Emma Henry, Director of Fragrance du Bois Middle East, mentioned that most of APC’s plantations are located in Thailand, but also have others dotted throughout Asia. She explained that another reason why oud is so expensive is because of illegal trading of oud which is worth so much. People have been cutting down the Aquilaria trees in the wild, expanding the problem. “The whole reason for what we do is about creating sustainability,” said Dean Henry, CEO at Asia Plantation Capital Middle East. Emma Henry
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“With oud oil itself, if people continue to deforest the Aquilaria tree, then it won’t be sustainable. In the Middle East, and Asia, they use oud oil at very high rates, and the trees can’t grow that quickly. In the wild, only 7 out of 100 of the trees actually produce the oud. If you think about communities in India that are killing the trees, and don’t replant them, you can imagine how unsustainable it is. We pride ourselves on planting one tree every time we harvest a tree to replace it.” Admirably, APC supports sustainable forestry and also supports exploited communities in Asia, which only adds to their overall charm as an ethical organization. It’s not just the oud oil that APC creates, but also wellbeing for communities. “Every tree that we harvest, we plant another tree, which continues that harvest cycle,” Dean explained. “In Sri Lanka, we actually reintroduced the agarwood tree after it went extinct, along with many other plantations and species of tree, like teak, banana, and pineapple. We always employ locals where we can. We have about 2,000 locals working for us in Thailand, all employed above the average wage. Asia Plantation is in charge of all the plantation side. Fragrance du Bois is a sister company, and a separate entity. We invite individuals to invest in our plantations which is quite key for us, also helping us with the sustainability process.” Dean Henry
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October Issue 3 2015
COVER STORY
THE BESPOKE EXPERIENCE The term ‘bespoke’ describes the adaption of something for a specific user or purpose. The adornment of a bespoke, or personalized scent, is the ultimate luxury in perfumery. Fragrance du Bois is the only fragrance house that uses its own signature, 100% pure and natural oud, in all of its formulations. All of the elements converge to produce a perfect palette from which the artisan can conceive and begin the creative process, matching a fragrance with a consumer’s desires. “This is our mood board. It’s reflected by feelings and colors,” Emma explained, as she shared a chart with a selection of feelings and scents to choose from, of which we chose ‘fresh’ and ‘natural’. “As you can see, you’ve gone into our fresher, lighter area without even realizing,” Emma explained. With the options we had chosen, Emma was then able to introduce us to the scents. “I will let you smell the fragrance that reflects this on the board, and then you can tell me if it’s something realistic and that you would wear.” The first scents she introduced was oud vert, a very fresh scent, with a hint of sourness and spice – very luxurious. The next fragrance was oud bleu, a little lighter, but more aquamarine with a beachy appeal. These fragrances would match the chart, but it doesn’t necessarily mean that these would be the fragrances that the consumer would wear, so Emma was open to any preferences we had. We then tried oud rouge, which was spicy and had a noticeably high content of oud – very rich and exotic. Oud rose was much softer and feminine, and oud orange had a vanilla essence with a rich cognac aroma. The final scent, oud noir, turned out to be a homerun - a complex fragrance, designed for the Singapore Grand Prix, and designed for those who sat somewhere in the middle of the chart of scents and feelings. The bespoke experience is an impressive process of elimination to determine the appropriate scent. We would highly recommend the experience to anyone who would like to experience a bit of luxury, without compromising ethical beliefs.
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October Issue 3 2015
FEATURE
TOPSHOP SAYS “NO” TO WASTE AND “YES” TO CONTEMPORARY UPCYCLING
Fashionistas know them as a glamorous British-based international clothing brand. We know them as an adherent supporter of upcycling clothing in a world with too many resources going waste. Topshop has captivated young women all around the world with its contemporary British-inspired fashion. But what we love most about Topshop, is the success of their “Reclaim to Wear” partnership collection, and upcoming “Topshop Reclaim” collection – supporting prosperous, ethical fashion. October Issue 3 2015
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“RECLAIM” COLLECTIONS Back in 2012, Topshop collaborated with Orsola de Castro and Filippo Ricci from Reclaim to Wear, who specialize in creating amazing garments using only left over fabrics from the fashion industry. According to the Topshop Design Team and Stephen Mongan, Head of Sourcing and Technical Services, Reclaim to Wear was set up as a way of, “utilizing all of the beautiful fabrics left over from designer collections.” What did Topshop learn from working the Reclaim to Wear way? “Using only what we had available to us meant that we suddenly considered fabric combinations that had never occurred to us before.” The team felt they had a responsibility to respect the impact that they have on the world, and the project was their way of helping out.
TOPSHOP’S OTHER AGENDA
Well aware of the strong waste factor that the fashion industry can’t seem to overlook, Topshop values integrity, transparency and environmental awareness while implementing their business practices. Topshop has long-term relationships with suppliers and works with them to improve working, social and environmental conditions. The retailer partnered with Arcadia Group who implemented Fashion Footprint, a programme to monitor and manage the social and environmental impacts of business. Now entering its ninth year, Fashion Footprint reinforces Arcadia Group’s commitment to sustainability. Since the launch of Fashion Footprint, Arcadia has been committed to making improvements in reducing energy and water consumption, and having minimal environmental impact during transportation of products. Recent collections by Topshop have directly influenced consumers to purchase ethical fashion by repurposing old clothing into contemporary fashion.
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Topshop as a brand has more history than you might expect, although their stunning designs remain contemporarily appealing. Topshop was first initiated way back in 1964, in the basement of a department store. Today, Topshop is huge, with followers from all around the world, including over 300 stores in the UK, shipping to more than 100 countries globally, with flagship stores in London, Chicago and New York. Topshop is currently the only High Street brand to show on schedule at London Fashion Week, with fresh seasonal collections that never cease to impress, with influences including Alexander McQueen, and Kate Moss.
Upcycling is about giving something a new lease of life, adding value through design. – Orsola de Castro,
Creative Director at From Somewhere and Reclaim to Wear, and Co-founder of Fashion Revolution. Following the considerable success of Topshop’s collaboration with Reclaim to Wear, the High Street retailer recently launched its first individual collection of womenswear derived from existing stock, including surplus materials and production offcuts from previous seasons. Topshop Reclaim, which debuted online and in stores on July 16, offers “essential transitional” pieces such as floral-silk jumpsuits, leopard-printed culottes, and darkwash denim jackets. The 20-piece collection uses upcycled denim (which is hot right now), and clothing best suited to current summer trends. Trish Clarke, Topshop’s Head of Technical Services has said the collection provides an ethical solution to disregarded material. “We are inspired to challenge textile waste across our product areas, whilst still creating versatile designs that are wardrobe essentials for our customers,” she says. “From 70’s buttondown dresses, to sheer-panel printed blouses, we want everyday fashion to be sustainable in Topshop’s portfolio and blueprint.” Prices for the collection range from $22 for a ribbed camisole to $125 for a one-piece romper. Be sure to check it out!
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October Issue 3 2015
LIFESTYLE
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Live like a
BALLERINA When Misty Copeland was promoted to Principal Dancer of the American Ballet Theatre, she broke the boundaries of diversity, sending the message that anyone can be beautiful. But why is the life of a ballerina so enchanting?
By Nasreen Rasool “Ballet teaches you perfection and discipline from the tips of your toes, to your eyebrows”, says Misty Copeland in one of her many interviews. Imagine waking up every morning, and instead of sitting at a PC all day, you head to the dance studio. You activate every muscle in your body, stretch, point, pirouette, and leap into the air. Dance has a mesmerizing way of lifting your entire body and soul away from the heavy anchors of life and into a magical world. A world of order, grace, beauty and love. Where intense emotion is embodied in every perfect movement. And perhaps this is why Misty Copeland’s story is so captivating. “We need that in this crazy life,” she says. She made history on June 30, when she became the first Afro-American ballerina to be named as the Principal Dancer of the American Ballet Theatre (ABT). But for Ms. Copeland it was more than just the event. Many people were expecting the promotion, as she had already proven her worth in the company by rising quickly to soloist, and then the first black ballerina to dance the lead in Swan Lake. She has used her position to speak out about transcending the borders of diversity and beauty. Proving to the world, that a black woman, who did not have the ideal body type for a ballerina, could still excel, be beautiful, and inspire others.
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LIFESTYLE Coming from a rough childhood, Copeland’s life was far from glitz and glamour. Ballet was her escape from her dismal life of being one of six children living in small motel in a single parent home. Copeland was very shy growing up, to the point where she hardly spoke. She started ballet at the age of 13, which is very late, as most girls start at around 6 years, when the muscles are still young and supple. She was even told not to pursue ballet because she did not have the right body. At the age of 21, she developed an eating disorder, after being devastated with the accusation that she was ‘fat’ according to ABT standards. Now at 32, she has been on the cover of Time Magazine and interviewed by several other media, where she is opening up the discourse about race and body image in the ballet world. Misty is determined to be a role model in an art form that she clearly loves, but hopes will change in its conservative approach.
BALLET IS GAINING A WHOLE NEW AUDIENCE Misty’s rise to fame has definitely opened up the ballet world to a much more diverse audience. Her Under Armour commercial went viral because it stripped ballet of its stereotypes, depicting it in a way that was never seen before. It also introduced her to the rest of the world who had no interest in ballet before. But this shift in stereotypes has been happening slowly and steadily over the years in many other ways. From its earliest days ballet has been traditionally an art form for the rich elite, and a predominantly European audience. With the arrival of contemporary dance, choreographers slowly started mixing ballet with more modern and popular dance styles, giving it a more universal appeal. Fast forward to current times, it is becoming more mixed race, multi-cultural and open to the general public. Gyms are now offering ballet as a workout option for everyday women, mums, business women, bigger sized women and anyone else who would never in a million years be accepted into a dance academy. This is great, because ballet is essentially a technique that pushes the body and mind of the dancer to achieve its maximum potential. It lengthens muscles, instead of bunching them up, like most other athletic sports. According to Misty, ballet is the ideal way to train your body and mind to be healthier because it ingrains commitment in you and is so enjoyable that it doesn’t feel like an arduous workout. Experts recommend dancing to boost memory, improve flexibility to ease joint pain, reduce stress and depression, improve heart health, aid weight loss and increase energy levels. Then of course, there is the diet. To be able look and move like a ballerina, one must follow a healthy diet and lifestyle, with plenty of rest. A typical meal plan for a ballerina includes healthy carbs for energy, plenty of liquids for hydration and only small amounts of lean protein and fats and least 5 servings of fruit and vegetables per day. Snacks include apple with peanut butter, crackers and cheese or energy bars.
Misty on working out:
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Just the way ballet is so beautifully structured, it ingrains this commitment into you. […] Something that’s so beautiful about a dance class is that you don’t feel like you’re just doing repetitive movements, but you’re enjoying it and you’re listening to music and it doesn’t seem like work.
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-LA Times
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Copeland doesn’t believe in diets, but rather adopting an overall healthy lifestyle. “I think it’s about adjusting your lifestyle forever. For me, it’s about portion control and having things in moderation,” she told LA Times. In an interview with Women’s Health magazine Copeland said, “It’s about time that we’re given that respect! People don’t understand the incredible strain that we put on our bodies on top of having to make it look so beautiful, do research, and become a character. I’m so unbelievably grateful, and honored to be there with some of these top athletes in the world.” And so are we Misty! Even if we’re not on that stage, so many of us have been inspired to live like a ballerina, striving for perfection and finding our inner beauty.
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IN FOCUS
KE$HA
STANDS FOR #BECRUELTY FREE COSMETICS Sure she’s a bit unpredictable, and definitely has a wild side, but deep down, Kesha has a heart of gold. The blonde “TiK ToK” singer has released a video shot by celebrity photographer Robert Sebree, where she pledges her support to the #BeCrueltyFree Campaign, which admirably opposes beauty products that have been tested on animals.
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“
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Around the globe tens of thousands of animals are killed in unnecessary tests for beauty products. But even now it’s easy to avoid buying cosmetics tested on animals by only buying cruelty free products.
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TIK TOK! THE COUNTDOWN TO CRUELTY FREE PRODUCTS HAS BEGUN In 2012, the Humane Society of the United States and Humane Society International launched the largest-ever global campaign to end animal testing for cosmetics. The #BeCrueltyFree Campaign was launched from HIS offices in Australia, Canada, Europe, and India, with scientific outreach programs in several developing cosmetics markets. “Consumers are largely unaware that sentient creatures are still poisoned for the sake of new shampoo and lipstick, even though such testing can be avoided,” says Kate Willett, Director of Regulatory Toxicology, Risk Assessment and Alternatives for the Humane Society of the United States. “The #BeCrueltyFree Campaign is calling on consumers, legislators and companies to end cosmetics testing on animals because no animal should die for cosmetics.” Testing is already banned in Europe and other parts of the world.
WHY WE LOVE KE$HA Kesha seems to have grown up and evolved her image significantly. No longer concerned with brushing her teeth “with a bottle of Jack”, she’s now more concerned about what she puts on her face – and we love her for it! The pop singer stars in the Humane Society United States new PSA to #BeCrueltyFree. The PSA shows a glamorous Kesha getting ready for a night out on the town (which she does best), using makeup products that are animal-friendly. Each cosmetic product she uses is completely free of animal testing, something the singer has supported for many years. As cute bunnies surround her bathroom, Kesha leaves us with a message on her mirror written in lipstick to #BeCrueltyFree. “Once I was educated about the hidden cruelties that lurk behind some cosmetic products companies, I knew I had to take action and do everything in my power to end this inhumane practice of testing our cosmetics on animals,” Kesha said in a press release. “Around the globe, tens of thousands of animals are killed in unnecessary tests for beauty products. But even now it’s easy to avoid buying cosmetics tested on animals by only buying cruelty free products.” In addition, earlier this year, legislators introduced a bill now going through the Senate in Brazil that promises to ban animal testing for finished cosmetic products. However, this is a very limited ban because the majority of animal testing of cosmetics is performed on ingredients. Almost no animal testing is done on finished products. Kesha has called on Brazil to end all cosmetics animal testing, giving her personal backing to
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Humane Society International’s #BeCrueltyFree Brazil campaign for a complete and robust ban. The global superstar, who has sold nearly 60 million albums worldwide, took time out on her Brazil tour to meet backstage with #BeCrueltyFree campaigners in Sao Paulo while performing at the Citibank Hall stadium. To meet Kesha’s challenge of cruelty free cosmetics, the Brazilian bill must be amended to ban animal testing of ingredients as well as finished products. Every year, tens of thousands of rabbits, mice, guinea pigs, and other animals are used in painful, horrific experiments meant to substantiate the safety of cosmetics. There are those who justify it because they believe that testing on animals is better than testing on humans, or resulting in humans experiencing harmful after-effects. But the reality is, such harmful ingredients shouldn’t be used in the first place. The passage of the Humane Cosmetics Act would bring the US in line with more than 30 other countries to more than 1.7 billion consumers that have already implemented similar bans on product testing.
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MEN S FASHION
FROM HANDCRAFTED ORGANIC JEWELRY,TO KELLY SLATER’S OUTERKNOWN
Zane has you covered on how to complete your Eco-Look.
It’s that time again, where I present to you my thoughts on ethical fashion from a male perspective. Hopefully by now I have managed to convince you guys that ethical fashion isn’t a feminine attribute, but rather a quality to be proud of. This month, I will show you how to complete your look with some stand out ethically sound brands who create handcrafted jewelry that will surely revamp your eco-style.
that the items had sustainable roots.
First of all, since this column is all about the best in men’s ethical fashion, I have to give a shout out to American Champion Surfer Kelly Slater, who recently debuted his new label Outerknown. His new label is an attempt to “smash the formula” by creating stylistically appealing clothing for males in a sustainable and transparent manner. The reason why I, along with many other fashion lovers, have caught on to this new brand and concept, is because the designs are simplistic, modern, and most of all realistically appealing to everyday males. What’s more, you wouldn’t even know
And he certainly is. His brand has already been featured on a number of fashion websites including Ecouterre. According to Creative Director John Moore, today’s men want pieces that are not only stylish, functional, and built to last, but also enable effortless movement, “from the surf to the presentation room,” in the span of a single day. I couldn’t agree more!
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Slater has remained humble about the success of the project. “The last two years have been a huge eye-opener for me. I realised how challenging it is for any brand to put sustainability at the forefront of their business, and I’m proud that we’re one of the few taking the lead.”
Check out www.outerknown.com
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In addition to Outerknown, I want to bring your attention to another admirable organization that I believe deserves your recognition. NOVICA in association with National Geographic, empowers artisans from all around the world to turn their amazing designs and products into a livelihood. It’s a really commendable association. Many artisans don’t have the channel and means to sell their work in the international market, so NOVICA gives them a free platform to do so. The NOVICA teams of local art experts based in every region, provide artisans with all the support they need, from product development advice, to quality control assistance. On their website, I found some really cool hand crafted accessories for guys. I love the two hand-braided bracelets (see images) all the way from Thailand – such a beautiful
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country. The first “Friendship” bracelet is made from honey strands of light brown leather which embrace the wrist. Designer Chaloemphon Krasear adds dark brown beads carved of bone to this design for men. For Chaloemphon, “Leather craft is more than a source of income – through leather, I also get an opportunity to make new friends around the world.” The other (black) bracelet is made by the same artist. Braided by hand, strands of black leather wrap twice around the wrist. Chaloemphon adds a honeyed tiger’s eye bead to form the clasp on this handsome design.
Check out his other items by searching his name on www.novica.com
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MEN S FASHION
Planchette Amulet – Antique Bronze jewelry benefits from a hypoallergenic, tarnish resistant, nano-ceramic coating.
Bike More Dog Tag – 100% USA Wood – Finished with plant-based, vegan friendly Carnauba Wax.
Customized Cherrywood T-Rex Plugs made from 100% USA Wood. Finally, you need to check out a brand called Omerica Organic. What initially interested me about this brand, was its laidback, youthful appeal. It’s great to see a contemporary brand incorporating ethics, encouraging an aspiring generation. The concept of the company was to create unique jewelry, for example plug-in earrings, custom made to order, derived from sustainable wood. Based in Denver, Colorado, Ryan the Founder, figured that everyone’s ears are different. “Perhaps plug-ins should be made in varying wearing lengths,” he thought. He wanted to create a brand that had integrity and cared about all of the little details. The company purchases 100% wind energy from Xcel En-
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ergy’s Windsource Program. In addition, Omerica Organic purchases all of its wood in an ethical manner, from trusted suppliers in the USA, and also donates to the Nature Conservancy Tree Planting Program as their way of offsetting their wood consumption. I appreciate the way sustainability is integrated into every aspect of the businesses, evening packaging – including biodegradable bags, reusable re-sealable bags, or 100% recyclable cushioned mailers.
Check them out at www.omericaorganic.com
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GREEN SHOPPING
OOOH Sustainable fashion picks you just got to have this season
Nothing could possibly feel better than walking out in style, knowing that your headturning outfit had zero environmental impact and that no animals were harmed in the process. The concept of sustainability is present in all these pieces, which are either recycled, re-purposed, made from eco-friendly, sustainable materials or are toxin-free. It’s slow, ethical fashion for the eco-conscious fashion lover.
COOL ‘N CASUAL Top Shop recently launched a stand-alone collection called Top Shop Reclaim, derived from existing unwanted stock and production offcuts, as part of an initiative to reduce waste.
COVER UP These Hemp and Organic Cotton coats from Terra Urbana are perfect for PreFall and Winter.
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MAMA! ETHICAL BLING Chopard is a member of the Responsible Jewelry Council and is committed to sustainable development with minimum environmental impact. The exquisite designs are often chosen by Hollywood celebs on the Red Carpet.
STELLA KNOWS STYLE
Stella McCartney’s winter 2015 range is already available for pre-order. Her Fur Free Fur and platform shoes have been making a style statement on the runways!
Stella McCartney launched Falabella Eyewear last month.
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GREEN SHOPPING
SIMPLE SHOES MAKES A GRAND COMEBACK
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L
ess hype, more simple. That’s the tagline for ecofriendly shoe label, Simple Shoes. But recently they have been creating much hype around their reintroduction into the market, after a long absence. Fans will be pleased to know that the brand is planning to come back stronger than ever, with all-new designs and a fiery attitude! They have already launched a Kickstarter campaign and so far, things seems to be more promising than ever before.. In December 2011, the parent company, Deckers, decided to cease distribution of Simple Shoes, to focus on other brands. It was a great setback for the company, as well as its loyal fan base. After 20 years of success, the brand suddenly found itself on shaky ground, and its new president Pete Worley claimed at the time that it had lost its identity. When Simple Shoes began as a startup, it had a fresh message of eco-conscious, simple living, but somehow the edge and appeal was not enough to reach a global market. Fast forward to 2014, a new name appeared on the scene, and resurrected the Simple brand. Denis Ryan, a footwear veteran, acquired the Simple Shoes trademark and intellectual property rights from Deckers in late 2014, and plans to officially relaunch the company. Ryan has reportedly been working with product development experts and creating an all-new corporate identity for the company. “We came to realize we all believed in the Simple message and knew that there were styles within the product range that were iconic and deserved to be brought back into the footwear market,” said Ryan in a statement. Some of the old favorites, like the OS-91 will be making a comeback and were featured on the Kickstarter campaign. They have already been flooded with support on social media, with fans demanding their favorite styles, some of them actually confessing to owning 5 pairs of Simple Shoes already! It’s a touching reminder that people out there actually want and will actively support something that meets their needs and has a good environmental cause. The idea is definitely unique, and has caught on to many adoring customers all over the world. So backed with a new identity: “Keep it simple”, and a whole lot of support, Simple Shoes could soon be disrupting the eco-fashion market, with its clean, green and stylish concept.
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GREEN SHOPPING
STREET STYLE
Now this is sustainability at its best! Mark Chirum is a young entrepreneur in a small Johannesburg township in South Africa. He makes extra cash by reviving old sneakers - cleaning them up and giving them a whole new life with a creative, fashionable twist.
Photos: Mail & Guardian
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COVER STORY
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GREEN TECH
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I believe in women’s sensibility towards innovative projects. From conception and design to use through realization.
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Marie Spinali
CEO OF SPINALI DESIGN
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SPINALI DESIGN’S
COMMUNICATING BIKINI COULD SAVE YOUR SKIN Communicating with your bikini? It sounds ridiculous! But in this age of technology and progression, nothing is impossible. All around the world people love to bathe under the sun to build up their golden tan – even when we are all aware of the damaging consequences. In a leap of hope, French designer Marie Spinali has designed a bikini that warns its user when they’ve had too much of a good thing.
ULTRAVIOLET B You’ve heard it before, and you’ll hear it again. The sun can be extremely damaging to your skin if you are exposed to too much of it. Sunscreen is an important product in the fight against sunburn. SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, but it specifically indicates protection against the ultraviolet B (UVB) rays that cause sunburn. The ultimate risk of sunburn is melanoma – the most serious form of skin cancer. Getting sunburn is much more common that it ought to be. In a recent survey conducted in partnership with iVillage, the Skin Cancer Foundation found that 42% of people polled get a sunburn at least
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once a year. One blistering sunburn in childhood or adolescence more than doubles a person’s chances of developing melanoma later in life. A person’s risk for melanoma also doubles if he or she has had five or more sunburns at any age. “Imagine that your skin normally begins to burn after 10 minutes in full sun without any protection. A 30 SPF sunscreen would provide 30 times the protection of no sunscreen,” says Kimberly Mallett, Research Associate in the Penn State Prevention Research Center. As morbid and concerning as all of this may sound, thankfully a nifty solution in addition to sunscreen, has been cooked up.
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GREEN TECH
SPINALI DESIGN In response to the terrifying reality of the harsh effects of sunburn, French designer Marie Spinali designed a concept to allow women to relax, and enjoy the sun, without worrying about too much exposure. She designed an elegant swimsuit bikini, with an embedded UV sensor no larger than two centimeters, connected via a smartphone, which allows the user to receive an alert on her phone informing her to apply or reapply sunscreen according to her skin type. When the user is in danger of burning or needs to cover up, the swimsuit sends a text message alert to their phone with a warning. The innovative collection features a mix of swimsuits (mostly bikinis) that start at €150 (about $168). Spinali’s inspiration for the idea derived at the time when she witnessed women getting burnt while tanning on the beach. She wanted to put a stop to the carelessness and yearned to help them to understand when enough is enough. However, dermatologists warn that no amount of tan is “safe” tan. Although the bikinis are supposed to prevent sunburns, they also serve as a reminder to people of the importance of using sunscreen and reapplying regularly. Remember that sunscreen can do only so much, and a big umbrella and some stylish beachwear might be your best bet. October Issue 3 2015
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TRENDS
THREE
FASHION
ICONS WHO RECYCLE THEIR BEST
LOOKS
In our age of indulgence, China has stepped up as the lead manufacturer of clothing. The Chinese textile industry creates about 3 billion tons of soot every year. Millions of tons of unused fabric at Chinese mills go to waste. With a world population that will soon be swelling up to 7 billion, our fashion industry needs an alteration in some way. If every person on Earth owned only one pair of pants, one shirt, and one jacket, that would be 21 billion articles of clothing. If you were to count each of those, one per second, it would take nearly 672 years. That’s a lot of clothes! And it’s safe to assume that most of us own more than three items of apparel. It’s time to appreciate the clothes we have. Check out these three fashion superstars who unashamedly recycle their best looks.
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MICHELLE OBAMA
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The First Lady of the United States has become something of an icon in the fashion world. Like the Duchess of Cambridge, Michelle has managed to wow crowds with her sophisticated, and simple outfit choices. Michelle’s popularity and influence as a fashion icon has gone so far that she even has blog sites dedicated to sharing every single fashion look she dons! She caused a huge stir in March, when she stepped out in a bright yellow Kenzo dress in Japan. She is always very conscientious about what she wears when she travels. But once again, what we love most about Michelle, is not only her exquisite fashion choices, but also the way she manages to recycle them. Michelle wore this red Michael Kors dress twice during her husband’s first term as President, which brings out the color of her skin, and makes her look beautiful. Why wouldn’t you wear it again?
nerriM neleH emaD
KATE MIDDLETON
T
he Duchess of Cambridge has taken the fashion world by storm. Ever since she first stepped out on the arm of Prince William, she has never disappointed her millions of fashionforward fans. What they really loved about Kate, is her ability to connect to commoners. She effortlessly pulls off high end fashion looks, but can also pull off a casual laid back look like the ME+EM striped polo top she wore to a polo game during her tour of Australia. But what we love about Kate, is that she is not afraid to recycle her fashion looks. For example, the light pink Emilia Wickstead pleated dress she wore on two separate occasions. Rather than purchasing a whole new outfit, Kate switched up the look by adding a classy hat. We love her for it!
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TRENDS
DAME HELEN MIRREN
3 S
he’s classy, she’s bold, and a she’s a Hollywood legend. British actress Helen Mirren has been acclaimed for both her acting talent and her fashion trends. She is best known for her portrayal of Queen Elizabeth II in The Queen, for which she received an Academy Award for Best Actress. At 69, it’s worth noticing how Helen Mirren managed to remain so relevant in the fashion industry, often completely outdoing her younger counterparts. However, aside from her Hollywood appeal, Helen Mirren has a strong humanitarian background. She has travelled to Northern Uganda with Oxfam to draw attention to what the UN Security Council called the “world’s worst forgotten crisis”, in which half a million people have been killed and two million people displaced. The actress has separately commented on her charitable shopping habits, saying, “If I travel anywhere particularly cold or hot, I don’t take any clothes with me. At the airport I’ll ask the taxi driver to take me to the nearest charity shop where I’ll buy what I need for the trip. When it’s time to come home, I take them back to the shop. That way I don’t have to haul luggage around with me and I get the pleasure of wearing a new outfit for only 50 pence! Even though I’m now in a position to go shopping, I don’t indulge very often – it’s just not in my nature.” We love Helen Mirren for her laidback approach to fashion, and willingness to adopt a more eco-friendly style. Doesn’t she look amazing in her Dolce & Gabbana dress that she has worn on three separate occasions? Simply adding a new accessory can make all the difference.
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INTERVIEW
THE FUTURE LOOKS BRIGHT FOR DUBAI’S ETHICAL FASHION INDUSTRY Dubai is still stabilizing its fashion roots. It didn’t take long for the global fashion industry to catch on to Dubai’s glamorous lifestyle and attractive malls. But rest assured ethical lovers, our nation is not short of aspiring individuals pioneering to create a sustainable fashion industry. I recently met with Ayesha Siddequa, the Founder and Creator of Future Fashion, to discuss her website and her passion for ethical fashion. By Zane Small
THE FUTURE OF FASHION
T
he time has come to end the stigma attached to ethical fashion. For some time now, ethical fashion has been associated with hippies and unusual, often un-relatable designs. For Ayesha Siddequa, creating her website was all about, “combining fashion with ethic responsibility.” With a Masters in Corporate Responsibility from UK, Ayesha came to Dubai with the knowledge of ethical fashion she experienced in London, and yearned to implement it. “When I looked around here, I found a gap. Fashion is something that I am interested in personally, so I decided to combine fashion with ethic responsibility. I quit my job, and took a leap of faith, and decided to start something that no one else seemed to be doing here.” Ayesha initiated Future Fashion as a marketplace website, selling her own products, as well as a variety of complementing products to cater to a varied population. “We have 90% expats and 10% locals so I had to cater for all of them.” The Future Fashion website offers Ayesha’s personal clothing line Ayesha Siddequa, as well as international brands. Her personal brand is made from locally sourced sustainable products, all custom made, catering to modest wearers and local buyers. “This way, the production cost and the overheads are low, and we don’t keep stock except for fabrics.” To discuss her brand and website, Ayesha and I met at Dubai Mall (ironically surrounded by a multitude of unethical fashion) .She was very bubbly and bright, and has a vast knowledge of the sustainable fashion industry. Check out what she had to say in the following interview.
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I need to see the process, I need to see who their employers are, how they’re paid, what’s happening with their fabrics, and who they’re selling to. I have to look into this as it establishes our credibility.
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Ayesha Siddequa FOUNDER OF FUTURE FASHION
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INTERVIEW how it starts. In the beginning I tried to woo the customers by not really talking about ethics and sustainability, because I just want the initial appeal. What I believe is that desirability equals sustainability – if you give people products that people love wearing, and it has a story to it, people will love it.
Ayesha Siddequa, Founder of Future Fashion
Q: What can people expect to find on the Future Fashion marketplace website? On Future Fashion, we have womenswear and kids wear, plus accessories – mostly female fashion. The range varies from formal wear, to casual, to dressy. Currently we have 12 global brands. I’m looking forward to raising this number to at least twenty by the end of this year. Q: How do you source brands for your website? Are there certain sustainability criteria that your brands have to adhere to? Yes, we do have criteria on our website. We have a sustainability section with 12-15 criteria, of which a minimum criteria of 4 per brand must pass through. One doesn’t have to be licensed by third party because we know how expensive that is, and not everyone can do that, especially artisans – so we look at how sustainable is the process involved in making the product, and we also speak to them on Skype before signing up with them to see how passionate they are. Before signing, we ensure the product quality, as it needs to appeal to our buyers. We offer mid to high end products in terms of quality and prices, so anything lower than that we really don’t want to bring on board. In Dubai it’s all about branding as opposed to quality, and there aren’t many brands here who are following ethics. I would love to work with local signers who are actually involved in building sustainability and ethics into their production chain. Q: Have you come across many local sustainable fashion brands that you are sourcing, or are most of them international? Not really. I guess mine is the only local brand in the region. However, I’m looking for more local brands. There are many exhibitions and pop up events happening where local brands are being showcased, but they are not all made ethically. I need to see the process, I need to see who their employers are, how they’re paid, what’s happening with their fabrics, and who they’re selling to. I have to look into this as it establishes our credibility. It can’t be anyone and everyone. Ethics and sustainability has to be at the core of their business. When I came here (Dubai) to begin with, I knew that there was a sense of corporate responsibility, much more than any other GCC country, and I expected it to develop faster. It’s been two and a half years now and I’m still at the stage of spreading awareness. But it’s fine, because this is usually
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Q: In addition to women’s and kid’s clothing, you also stock accessories on your website. Are your accessories also ethically sourced? In terms of accessories, we have sunglasses and scarves, bags, and jewelry. Our jewelry comes from Turkey – Ottoman era creative craftsmanship where they hand make the jewelry out of silver threads. This is one of our great sellers because it starts from $30 onwards for a pair of pure silver earrings, to $400 for bamboo sunglasses. A lady makes the bamboo frame sunglasses herself. We have beautiful bags – a brand called Abury which are satchels that were picked up from the traditional Moroccan culture, and are hand embroided by the locals – a very traditional touch to a modern bag. Q: These background stories are very interesting. Can you tell us more? Each brand has a beautiful story to tell and have been successful in their own countries. One particular story I love is about a lady called Babuka who works for Women Empowerment in Pakistan and Zanzibar, and she uses organic cotton to empower women in those regions. The downside is that because these brands aren’t necessarily recognized in the UAE, it takes time for them to gain popularity and the idea of “why is this brand so special?” That’s where we come in and provide educational workshops where we provide answers. I’m currently working with the Sharjah Design Institute. We’re doing a collection on upcycling with the second year students. Q: Tell us about any ethical initiatives that Future Fashion is currently, or has been involved with. (For example, Fashion Revolution, UAE Green Festival). I need to talk about the story more, which is why I have taken initiatives to raise awareness. We are a member of the Ethical Fashion Forum, the largest directory in the world right now for ethical/sustainable fashion related brands and products. Being a member of the fashion forum inspired the global brands to approach us willing to come to this region from around the world. I represent Fashion Revolution, an initiative created by awesome people in the UK - I represent UAE. This was an initiative as part of corporate responsibility and Future Fashion. This is the second year for it. We’ve done workshops and events around it. There’s a movie called True Cost by Andrew Morgan in the UK which was released on May 19, and we did a private screening here. We’re waiting for the National Media Council for approval. In my opinion, Dubai essentially wants to be the next Paris in the fashion world. People need to follow His Highness’ vision to be sustainable by 2021, and need to start implementing it, especially in the fashion industry. www.ziwira.com
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COVER STORY ENTERTAINMENT
COVER STORY
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THE
TRUE COST Andrew Morgan DIRECTOR
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veryone must see this film! The True Cost is a documentary film about the dark side of the fashion industry, which we all buy into in horrifying numbers. Fashion is our way of life, it’s how we express ourselves, it’s fundamental and fun, but comes at an unfortunately high price, as the narrator begins. The film drew its inspiration from the Rana Plaza disaster which jolted the fashion industry and brought the poor working conditions to mainstream media and public for the first time. Since then, many have been speaking out against fast fashion, and calls to support sustainable, fair trade fashion are increasing. But there are still many of us who don’t actually know what’s going on, and who have never even thought of considering about where our clothes came from, who made them and what their lives are like. Director Andrew Morgan said, “I didn’t come from the background of fashion or design. I just came into it and thought, this is insane. This is a crazy part of our world and it’s horrifying that I have never heard of it. Like, how did I live this
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long in my life without even considering something as basic as where my clothes came from?” “So the film is not a guilt trip and it’s not one of those of the downers, it’s really just an invitation to say hey, there’s something really important in the world that you have not considered. And you are a part of something integral just by buying clothes.” The film features interviews with prominent personalities in sustainable fashion like Stella McCartney and Livia Firth. It premiered at Cannes in May and was released worldwide on 29 May. Shot in various countries around the world, from the catwalks in the most glittering suburbs to the darkest and uncomfortable, The True Cost aims to stimulate consumers to open their eyes. It makes clarifies that alternatives exist and by making the right selection, we can change the world. So cancel that shopping spree and go see this one with all your girl (and guy) friends!
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TRAVEL DIARIES
CRAVING FOR
CROATIA Explore Croatia, a land of natural beauty, ancient history and siesta!
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October Issue 3 2015
TRAVEL DIARIES
I
f your soul is craving for an untouched natural beauty, rich culture and open spaces, a trip to Croatia may just be what you need. It’s a small country with islands galore, fresh seafood and diverse heritage, not to mention amazing people! Croatia is tucked away between Hungary, Slovenia, Bosnia and Serbia and lies directly across from Italy, so you can imagine its rich history – having a cultural influence from each of these places. And who doesn’t love a swirl of exotica in their travels?
long ago, Roman legions once walked, catch a sight of a queer Postman Pat looking delivery van, or plunge into the sea depths to enjoy a unique underwater world. If the freshness of the clean air and cold spring waters tire you, freshen your mind while enjoying the benefits of thermal waters and a relaxing massage and afterwards, reward your palate by devouring traditional fresh dishes prepared locally.
It’s a country that is exceptionally rich in natural beauty and wellpreserved cultural heritage, offering innumerable opportunities to enjoy magical nature in the fresh air. The numerous museums, galleries and churches are included in a part of the UNESCO World Heritage List. Activities to enjoy include paragliding, horseback riding, diving, kayaking, cycling, rafting, sailing, aqua parks and even skiing.
Croatia offers all types of beaches - family beaches with gentle coves that are made from pebbles or gentle rocks, which can be found almost everywhere on the Adriatic coast, tidy town beaches and modern beaches for walking and having fun such as the crazy beach of Zrće on Pag, naturist beaches such as Koversada and Valalta in Istria, there are some deserted beaches, as well as pretty sandy. A large number of beaches in Croatia are crowned with a fluttering blue ecological flag, offering complete safety as well as numerous accompanying facilities.
As a visitor, you could take a bike ride on the trails where,
One of the highlights of any visit to Croatia must surely be a visit
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to Plitvice lakes (pronounced ‘pleetveetza’). The drops between each of the 16 lakes create some spectacular waterfalls. The area has a stunning natural beauty but is also the land of the 1991 ‘Homeland War’, when Croatian Serbs stood up to the police in opposition to a referendum on Croatia’s independence. What remains is a collection of shells of houses from the former Serb owners who fled and never came back. The architecture has a Greco-Roman influence. Croatia’s Adriatic Sea coast is home to more than a thousand islands. The country’s population is 4.28 million. The first King came into power by 925, elevating Croatia to the status of a kingdom. Now, it is a republic governed under a parliamentary system and has been classified by the International Monetary Fund as an emerging and developing economy. Croatia has been ranked the 18th most popular tourist destination in the world. Most of Croatia has a moderately warm and rainy continental climate, with the coldest parts of the country being Lika and Gorski Kotar where snowy forested climate is found at altitudes above 1,200 meters. Forests are significantly present in the country, as they cover 2,490,000 hectares (6,200,000 acres) covering 44% of Croatian land surface. The other habitat types include wetlands, grasslands, bogs, fens, scrub, coastal and marine habitats. Croatia is also known for its rich marine life, with lakes that have the most amazing green/blue tones and an abundance of fish. You can rest assured that any seafood acquired here is clean, healthy and sustainable, coming from the most pristine, and safe waters.
the river Kupa. Croatia is one of the ecologically best preserved parts of Europe. It is a land with above average number of land, sea and underwater species, and where the hues of the sunny and warm Mediterranean happily blend with the tranquility and crispness of mountains. In terms of the number and variety of species of flora, Croatia is one of the richest countries in Europe. In some locations there are up to 3,000 different varieties of plant life. The untouched green areas of Gorski Kotar and Lika, and the Istrian south with their exceptional ecological values and concentration of protected natural parks are true conserved treasure troves of endemic species. A special mention should be made here for orchid lovers. In the most southern part of Istria, amongst the many types of orchid growing here, there is the unique endemic Istrian Serapias (serapias istriaca), which up until now has never been found anywhere else. Enjoy a swim at the base of a waterfall or climb to the top of a bell tower for astonishing views or visit on of 22 sandy beaches in the Lopar on the Rab Island. It’s great for pizza too! So take a dip in the beautiful world of Croatia and return feeling rejuvenated and ready for a fresh start!
The Zadar waterfront is a popular tourist attraction for its stunning sunset and two main design features. One of them is the Sun Salutation, a large circle of photovoltaic cells, interspersed with LED lights that come to life after sunset. The installation uses the rhythm of the waves to create the colorful series of light pulses. The cells absorb the solar energy during the day, converting it into electricity. At dusk, the lights switch on, displaying the colorful and bright patterns. The installation mirrors the movement of the sun and the planets, which are represented by solar lights of proportional size and distance from “the sun”. The electricity produced by the photovoltaic cells is also used to light the whole waterfront. Next to this is the Zadar Sea Organ, which was originally built as just a large comfortable row of stairs on which people could sit to enjoy the sunset close to the water’s edge. But the designer then decided to turn it into a musical instrument, powered by the waves. The movement of the waves sends air through some pipes under the promenade which create musical notes. It’s a fascinating yet relaxing way to enjoy the waterfront. Croatia is also home to many different national parks, some of them hosting the densest collections of islands in the Mediterranean. The Risnjak National Park near Delnice is a forested mountain area which is home to numerous wild species and also has a natural hydrological monument – the source of www.ziwira.com
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COVER STORY
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