Zoo Med’s Beginner’s Guide to
Reptile Care By Gary Bagnall President Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc.
Table of Contents Introduction.....................................................................1 Heat .................................................................................2 Lighting...........................................................................4 Nutrition ..........................................................................7 Animal/Product Selection/Care Chart ............................8 Vitamins ..........................................................................10 Cage Furniture ................................................................11 Cage Substrates ...............................................................12 Do’s and Don’ts ..............................................................14 Terrarium Kits and Enclosures .......................................15 Habitats and Enclosures ..................................................16 Reptile Organizations .....................................................17 Reptile Publications ........................................................17
ISBN 978-0-9652471-1-5 Copyright ©1993-2011 Revised April 1994, Nov. 1996, Sept. 1998, March 1999, Dec. 2003, Feb. 2011 Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc. ©All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without the permission of Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc.
Zoo Med’s Beginner’s Guide to
Reptile Care Introduction The following is a “first time” reptile owners guide to the care of reptiles in captivity. Although this information is complete in the general care of reptiles, you should consult detailed books about the specific care of the particular species of reptile you are keeping. There are four basic “truths” in keeping reptiles alive and healthy in captivity. These four items are heat, lighting, nutrition, and cage furniture. If you satisfy these four needs, your reptiles will live a long and happy life while in your care.
1
HEAT Very few reptiles die from too much heat, in comparison to the amount that die from respiratory infections resulting from not enough heat. The reason for this is simple: people do not realize how warm their terrarium must be in order to maintain a tropical or desert type reptile such as an Iguana, Bearded Dragon, Boa, Python, Monitor lizard, etc. Tropical reptiles need a minimum temperature of 80°F (26°C) in their terrarium, while temperate climate reptiles (like Garter snakes, Anoles, Green snakes, Lacerta lizards, etc.) can be maintained in the lower temperature range of 70-78°F (21-25°C.) Most reptile heaters on the market will raise the ambient (i.e. inside) air temperature of the terrarium +5-10°F (+3-6°C.) A normal house temperature ranges from about 65-72°F (18-22°C,) which, by adding a ReptiCare® Rock Heater to your terrarium, is fine for temperate climate reptiles. To keep tropical climate reptiles in a 65-72°F home, the addition of one or two primary reptile heater(s) such as a ReptiTherm® UTH Heater, Ceramic Heat Emitter, etc. should raise a terrarium’s air temperature to the safe 80°F+ (26°C+) range. Be sure to provide a temperature gradient in your reptile’s terrarium to allow your reptile to thermoregulate and adjust its body temperature. This can be done by placing the heater on one side of the terrarium. The following is a breakdown of the functions of Zoo Med’s reptile heating devices and how they apply to your reptiles.
ReptiCare® Rock Heaters ReptiCare® Rock Heaters are designed to duplicate the natural basking process in all lizards and snakes. Rock heaters are designed to have a surface temperature approximately 10-15°F (6-8°C) higher than the ambient air temperature inside your terrarium. Think of it as a “safety stone”. Without sufficient heat, reptiles cannot produce enough digestive enzymes to properly digest their food, which can ultimately result in the death of your animal. The ReptiCare® Rock Heater will produce enough heat for both temperate and tropical reptiles to digest their food, but it will not sufficiently heat the ambient air temperature in your terrarium for tropical climate reptiles. To keep tropical or desert reptiles you will need to add an additional heat source such as a ReptiTherm® Under Tank 2
Heater, Ceramic Heat Emitter, Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp or Repti Basking Spot Lamp™ to bring the overall ambient air temperature of your terrarium above 80°F (26°C.)
ReptiTherm® Under Tank Heaters The ReptiTherm® Under Tank Heater was designed in the aerospace industry for reptile terrariums. The heater is made from a high temperature, heat resistant vinyl with one adhesive side that attaches to the underside of your terrarium. The heater will then heat the bottom glass of your terrarium, the cage substrate, and finally the inside (ambient) air temperature. After plugging this heater in it will take approximately 6 hours to reach its maximum effectiveness. You will notice an increase in the air temperature inside your terrarium of +5-10°F (+36°C.) If higher temperatures are required, you can add a second ReptiTherm® Under Tank Heater to the lower inside back wall of your terrarium. ReptiTherms® are extremely energy efficient and cost only pennies a day to operate.
Ceramic Heat Emitters
• • • • •
The Ceramic Heat Emitter is a non-light emitting, porcelain heat “bulb” that screws into a standard ceramic lamp socket (i.e., Zoo Med Wire Cage Clamp Lamp) and emits heat from above the screen top of your terrarium. Zoo Med’s Ceramic Heat Emitter was released in 1993 to the American reptile market and has become an extremely popular reptile heat source for the following reasons: Heat Emitters are very efficient in raising the inside temperature of your terrarium 10-20°F above room temperature. They produce no light (only heat), so you can leave them on 24 hours a day, without disturbing your animal’s sleeping patterns. Heat Emitters last approximately 5 years compared to ordinary overhead lamps which last approximately 2-3 months! They will not burn out or crack in terrariums with high humidity levels. Heat Emitters are excellent for heating large terrariums or wire iguana cages (i.e. Iguanariums) where high (85°F+/29°+C) temperatures are needed. 3
Repti Basking Spot Lamps™ Reptiles love to bask in the sun’s warmth, and many reptiles have a strong association between visible light and the sun’s warm rays. Your reptiles will love the light and warmth offered by the addition of a Basking Spot Lamp, focused onto a branch or rock. A basking spot also allows your reptiles to regulate their own body temperature, by using the different parts of their terrarium. Repti Basking Spot Lamps™ also provide UVA rays which are vital to the psychological well-being of reptiles. The perfect addition to any terrarium, Repti Basking Spot Lamps™ can be used with Zoo Med’s Repti Clamp Lamp™, and are available in 50, 75, 100 & 150 watts.
Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp™ Zoo Med’s Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp™ uses true red glass (not painted or coated) for maximum heat transfer. What’s more, infrared heat penetrates deep into muscle tissue, dilating blood vessels for increased blood circulation, improving nutrient and oxygen exchange within the animal’s system. The other benefit of this type of bulb is that it allows you to watch the nocturnal behavior of your animals while producing a very low light level that won’t disturb your animal’s sleeping patterns. The following is a “Suggested Heating Chart” matching the Zoo Med heating device to the appropriate reptile or amphibian. This chart is based on the inside temperatures of your home ranging from 65-72°F (18-22°C.)
LIGHTING When we talk about lighting for reptiles we are referring to the visible light you can see, as well as ultraviolet light (called UVA and UVB), which you cannot see. Many incandescent reptile lights are designed primarily to provide heat. Some of these bulbs, such as the Repti Basking Spot Lamp™, Daylight Blue™, and Repti Halogen® will also produce UVA, which is very important to the long term health and well-being of your reptiles. Reptiles also need UVB rays 4
Rep t i Ca re R ock Hea ter Rep ti T h erm UTH Hea ter Cera mi c Hea t Em itter Bask ing Sp Rep ti Ha ot Bulb o loge n He r at L amp Infra red Spo t Bu lb
Zoo Med Suggested Heating Chart Red Tail Boa
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Burmese Python
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Ball Python
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Garter Snake
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Rat Snake
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King Snake
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Green Snake
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Anole
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Green Iguana Uromastix Lizard
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Day Gecko
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Old World Chameleons
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Swift-type Lizards
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American Box Turtles
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*
Water Turtles Desert Tortoises
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Toads
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Tree Frogs
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Salamanders
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Hermit Crabs
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Tarantulas
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*Use Zoo Med’s new Turtle Tuff “Splash Proof” Halogen Basking Lamp. 5
which are crucial for the production of Vitamin D3, calcium absorption, metabolic functions and growth. Only fluorescent, compact fluorescent and mercury vapor bulbs (MVB) specifically designed to produce UVA and UVB rays can provide your reptiles with everything they need from the sun. Remember, without sunlight or a UVA/UVB emitting bulb, reptiles in captivity cannot grow, may become depressed, refuse to eat, lose mobility in their hind legs, and may die. No amount of “heat” can correct this situation, what we are talking about here are the benefits of sunlight (and not heat). Note: Glass (including windows and terrarium covers) filters out the beneficial UVA and UVB rays reptiles need. The ReptiSun 5.0 UVB and the ReptiSun 10.0 UVB both provide UVA and UVB rays just like the sun. The intensity is similar to levels of UVB and UVA that you would receive in the shade on a sunny day. The ReptiSun 5.0 UVB is designed for smaller terrariums (10-20 gallons in size) as this lamp will emit UVB 12" (30 cm) from the surface of the lamp. The Reptisun 10.0 UVB is designed for larger terrariums (30-60 Gallons) or for desert reptiles that have higher UVB requirements, such as Uromastyx Lizards and other desert type species. The ReptiSun 10.0 will emit UVB a full 20" (50.8 cm) from the lamp’s surface. NOTE: 1. Make sure the lamp and your reptile are not further apart than the above ReptiSun 5.0 and 10.0 UVB distance specifications. 2. Always give your Reptile(s) a shelter/hiding place to escape from the light should they chose to do so. Zoo Med’s NatureSun® (Formerly ReptiSun 2.0) was developed for all types of reptiles and amphibians which do not have high UVB requirements. These animals are: snakes, arachnids, frogs, toads, and salamanders. The NatureSun also has a very high C.R.I. (Color Rendering Index) of 98! This means the bulb has very bright and true color light that will show off the natural colors of your reptiles or amphibians. This bulb is also excellent for all birds and freshwater aquariums. For optimum reptile lighting in large terrariums, use the NatureSun® in conjunction with Zoo Med‘s ReptiSun 5.0 UVB or ReptiSun 10.0 UVB. All fluorescent bulbs are available in 15”, 18”, 24”, 36” & 48” lengths. The Reptisun 5.0 and 10.0 are also available in a compact fluorescent version (Screws into a standard socket). PowerSun UV Lamp: Zoo Med’s PowerSun UV lamps combine UVA, UVB and heat all in one lamp (No need for an additional basking spot lamp in most cases). This type of lamp is a favorite among professional reptile breeders and are available in 100 and 160 watt sizes. The PowerSun is the lamp of choice for use in large iguana cages (Iguanariums®) or in set-ups where the UVB emissions need to be 20" or greater from the surface of the lamp. 6
NUTRITION
Green Iguana
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Bearded Dragon
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Anole
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Swift-type Lizard
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Boa or Python
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Garter Snake ●
Green Snake
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Rat Snake ●
Old World Chameleon
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Tegu Lizard
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Monitor Lizard
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American Box Turtle
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Tortoise
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Water Turtles
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Toads
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Tree Frogs
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Salamanders
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Hermit Crab ●
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7
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fish
Live
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Tarantula
Gold
’s Pr epar ed D iets
Zoo
Cho
ppe
d Ea
ats or R Mice
Zoo
Med
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s
Diet s n O’ ’s Ca Med
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Zoo Med Basic Nutrition Chart
Kale ,m colla ustard gr rd g reen eens or s
A complete discussion about nutrition goes beyond the scope of this “beginners guide.” It is always best to consult a book on the specific species of reptile or amphibian you are keeping for a complete guide to their nutrition. The following is a basic nutrition chart for the more popular species.
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Animal/Product Selection/Care Chart
ANIMAL TYPE
SKILL LEVEL
SET-UP
HEATING DEVICE
DAYTIME
Green Iguana
Intermediate to Advanced
Tropical
Ceramic Heat Emitter
80-90˚F
Yes
Bearded Dragon
Beginning
Desert
Ceramic Heat Emitter
85-90˚F
Leopard Gecko
Beginning
Desert
ReptiTherm® UTH, Repti Heat Cable
Beginning to Intermediate
Tropical
Anoles
BASKING HUMIDITY SPOT SITE
LIGHTING
SUBSTRATE
SUPPLEMENTAL FOODS
MISC. COMMENTS
70%
Powersun UV®, Reptisun™ 5.0/10.0
Eco Carpet™ or ReptiBark®
All Natural Iguana Food
Use a Repticare Deluxe Rock Heater only as a secondary heat source, Can reach lengths of 6 feet!
Yes
30%+
Powersun UV®, Juvenile: Eco Carpet™ Adult: Reptisun™ 5.0/10.0 ReptiSand®, Vita-Sand® or Excavator®
Bearded Dragon Food, Can O’ products
Makes a great pet for children.
75-82˚F
Yes
20-50%
Naturesun™
ReptiSand®, Vita-Sand® or Excavator® clay sand.
Leopard Gecko Food, Can O’ Worms™ and Can O’ Pillars™
Makes a great pet for children.
ReptiTherm™ UTH, Repti Heat Cable
75-82˚F
Yes
50%+
Reptisun™ 5.0
Repti Bark®, Forest Floor™ or Eco Earth®
Anole Food, Can O’ mini Crickets™ and Can O’ Worms™
Keep live plants with Anoles, mist cage often.
Old-World Chameleons
Advanced
Depends on Species
Ceramic Heat Emitter
Depends on Species
Yes
Depends on Species
Reptisun™ 5.0 or 10.0
Repti Bark® or Forest Floor™
Can O’ products
Read Advanced Vivarium Systems books on Old World Chameleons.
Box Turtles
Advanced
Tropical
Ceramic Heat Emitter
70-84˚F
Yes
60%+
Powersun UV®, Reptisun™ 5.0/10.0
30% Repti Bark® or Forest Floor™ Mixed with 70% Eco Earth®
Box Turtle Food and Can O’ products , especially Can O’ Snails™ and Can O’ Worms™
Must have water pan they can get in and out of. (i.e. Repti Ramp Water Bowl). Must be able to burrow.
Tortoises
Advanced
Depends on Species
Ceramic Heat Emitter, Basking Spot Lamp
Depends on Species
Yes
50%+
Powersun UV®, Reptisun™ 5.0/10.0
Eco Carpet™, Eco Earth®, or Forest Floor™
Zoo Med’s Natural Grassland or Forest formula Tortoise Food
Read a good book on species you’re interested in before purchasing.
Aquatic Turtles
Intermediate
Water Set-up
Submersible Heater
75-86˚F
Yes
Use a good filter
Powersun UV®, Reptisun™ 5.0/10.0
None
Zoo Med Natural Aquatic Turtle Food, Turtle Treat and Can O’ Shrimp™
Use Dr. Turtle sulfa block with any newly acquired wild caught species.
Soft Shell Turtles
Intermediate
Water Set-up
Submersible Heater
78-86˚F
No
Use a good filter
Powersun UV®, Reptisun™ 5.0/10.0
ReptiSand®
Zoo Med Natural Aquatic Turtle Food, Turtle Treat and Can O’ Shrimp™
Use Dr. Turtle sulfa block on any newly acquired wild caught species.
Tree Frogs
Beginning
SemiTropical
ReptiTherm™ UTH
74-82˚F
No
50%+
NatureSun™
Eco Earth® and Terrarium Moss™
Can O’ Mini Crickets™ and Worms™
Mist cage daily.
Pac Man Frog
Beginning
Tropical
ReptiTherm™ UTH
80-86˚F
No
50%+
NatureSun™
Eco Earth® and Terrarium Moss™
Can O’ products
Aquatic Newts
Beginning
Water Set-up
Submersible Heater
65-75˚F
No
Use a good filter
NatureSun™
Gravel or Repti Sand®
Zoo Med’s Aquatic Newt Food Can O’ Worms™, Can O’ Pillars™
Mist daily, makes a great pet. Use ReptiSafe® in water. Clean hands with soap after handling.
Salamanders
Intermediate
Damp Woodlands
ReptiTherm™ UTH
Depends on Species
No
50%+
NatureSun™
Eco Earth® and Terrarium Moss™
Boa Constrictor
Intermediate
Tropical
Ceramic Heat Emitter, or ReptiTherm™ UTH
82-95˚F
Yes
50%+
NatureSun™
Aspen Snake Bedding or Eco Carpet™
Use Repticare Deluxe Rock Heater only as a secondary heat source, not a good pet for children.
Ball Python
Intermediate
Tropical
Ceramic Heat Emitter, or ReptiTherm™ UTH
82-92˚F
Yes
50%+
NatureSun™
Aspen Snake Bedding or Forest Floor™
Make sure animal is feeding before you purchase. Needs a hide box/shelter.
Garter Snakes
Beginning
Temperate
ReptiTherm™ UTH, Repti Heat Cable
72-84˚F
Beneficial
50%+
NatureSun™
Repti Bark® or Eco Earth®
Kingsnake
Beginning
Temperate
ReptiTherm™ UTH
77-86˚F
Yes
30%
NatureSun™
Eco Carpet™ or Aspen Snake Bedding
Corn/Rat Snake
Beginning
Temperate
ReptiTherm™ UTH
75-88˚F
Yes
50%+
NatureSun™
Eco Carpet™ or Forest Floor™ Bedding
Hermit Crabs
Intermediate
Depends on Species
ReptiTherm™ UTH
78-83˚F
No
70%+ Very important
Daylight Blue™, Nightlight Red™ or Nocturnal Infrared™
1/2 Eco Earth® and 1/2 Repti Sand® or Hermit Crab Sand
Hermit Crab Food, Can O’ Mini Crickets™ and Can O’ Worms™
Tarantula
Intermediate
Tropical
ReptiTherm™ UTH
75-84˚F
No
60%+
Daylight Blue™ or ReptiSun™ 2.0
Eco Earth® or Repti Bark®
Can O’ Crickets™
Monitor/Tegu Lizards
Intermediate
Depends on Species
Ceramic Heat Emitter, or ReptiTherm™ UTH
85-90˚F
Yes
50%+
PowerSun UV® or ReptiSun™ 5.0/10.0
Eco Carpet™, Repti Bark® or Aspen Snake Bedding
Canned Tegu/Monitor Food, Can O’ products
Uromastyx Lizard
Intermediate
Desert
Ceramic Heat Emitter
85-100+˚F
Yes
20-50%
Day Gecko
Intermediate
Depends on Species
Ceramic Heat Emitter, or ReptiTherm™ UTH
82-88˚F
Yes
50%-85%
8
Hermit Crab wet food or Can O’ Crickets™
Easy to care for. Easy to tame, hardy; Use a Repticare Deluxe Rock Heater only as a secondary heat source. Use a Repticare Deluxe Rock Heater only as a secondary heat source; one of the most beautiful snakes. Need a humid set-up, mist frequently. Provide branches for climbing. Not for Children.
Powersun UV® or Hatchlings: Eco Carpet™, Adults: Repti ReptiSun™ 5.0/10.0 Sand® or Excavator™ Clay Sand ReptiSun® 5.0
Use ReptiSafe® in water.
Not for children; Use a Repticare Deluxe Rock Heater only as a secondary heat source. Beautiful lizards, need high heat.
Eco Earth®, Repti Bark® or Forest Floor™
A look, don’t touch lizard that is very beautiful.
9
ReptiSticks
Gourmet Aquatic Turtle Food
Natural Aquatic Turtle Food Hatchling
Natural Aquatic Turtle Food Growth
Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food
Natural Juvenile Bearded Dragon Food
Natural Adult Iguana Food
Natural Juvenile Iguana Food
Natural Aquatic Turtle Food Maintenance
Red Shrimp
Natural Grassland Tortoise Food
Natural Forest Tortoise Food
Natural Box Tortoise Food
Tropical Fruit Mix-ins
VITAMINS
Can O’ Foods
Vitamin supplements do benefit all reptiles in captivity. Vitamin technology, in regard to reptiles, has changed very rapidly over the past 5 years. The following is what we currently know. Amino Acids use a vitamin with amino acids added for all snakes or lizards that eat large proteins (i.e. mice.) These lizards include all monitor and tegu species. Vitamin A versus Beta Carotene: Vitamin A is very important to reptiles. Beta Carotene is a precursor to Vitamin A, and some animals (and people) have the ability to meet their Vitamin A needs by converting Beta Carotene from their diet. Some animals cannot convert Beta Carotene to Vitamin A (like cats) and must have vitamin A in their diet. Evidence is growing that reptiles and amphibians are not able get enough vitamin A from Beta Carotene and therefore must have vitamin A in their diet. Vitamin A can be provided by using vitamin supplements that contain actual vitamin A, and not just Beta Carotene. As with all vitamin products, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions. Special note on Green Iguanas: If feeding a prepared diet to green Iguanas do not feed one that is primarily corn based. (i.e. first and main ingredient on label.) Corn has a 1 to 13 calcium to phosphorous level (i.e. 1 part calcium to 13 parts phosphorous.) This high level of phosphorous will deplete calcium from the iguana’s system possible resulting in metabolic bone disease.
10
CAGE FURNITURE All reptiles, amphibians, and small animals need items in their terrarium to explore and hide in while in captivity. Zoo Med calls these items “cage furniture”. Cage furniture can be rocks, branches, driftwood, moss, bark or plants (live or otherwise). Cage substrates (the ground covering used in terrariums), is also considered to be part of the cage furniture. With cage furniture your animal(s) can live active, healthy lives and build strong muscles and joints. Cage Furniture promotes normal feeding behavior, and provides a sense of security, reducing stress associated with captivity. Cage Furniture also adds more usable space in the terrarium. (Reptile territory is not limited to the floor of the terrarium.) Without cage furniture in your terrarium your reptiles may become disoriented, continuously try to get out of their terrarium, quit eating, or possibly die. Remember, a well decorated terrarium will enhance the beauty of your home as well as contribute to the security and health of the animals inside.
Mopani Wood Habba Hut
Cork Flats
Cork Rounds
Repti Shelter
Naturalistic Flora Repti Hammock
Repti Rapids Cascading Waterfall
ReptiSafe® Water Conditioner
Lizard Ladder
11
Arboreal Lagoon
CAGE SUBSTRATES Cage Substrate refers to the type of ground covering you choose for your reptile terrarium. The following are some important things to consider when choosing a cage substrate.
Eco Carpet™ or Repti Cage Carpet™
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●
Astroturf (Don’t use!) ●
Corn Cobs or Walnut Shells (Don’t use!) Newspaper
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Pine Shavings (Don’t use!)
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lean to C Easy
ty Exer of R cises Le epti gs les
Add
s Se
curi
at Harm Inge ful if sted !
sive ●
Help Con s to duct He
Abra Non
orbe Abs
Zoo Med Cage Substrate Chart
nt
• Is it absorbent? (Will it absorb waste, pulling it away from the animal?) • Is it abrasive? (Will it rub the animal’s tender underside?) • Will it help to conduct heat if used with an Under the Tank Heater? • Is it harmful if ingested? (Will it cause internal damage to reptiles?) • Will it help to add a sense of security for my reptile? • Is it easy to clean? The chart below shows you how current reptile cage substrates fare.
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Gravel (Don’t use!)
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ReptiSand® or Vita-Sand®
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ReptiBark®
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Forest Floor™ (Cypress Mulch)
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Rabbit Pellets
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Sphagnum Moss Aspen Snake Bedding
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Reptifresh® Odor Eliminating Substrate Eco Earth®
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● Yes Blank = No or Not applicable WARNING: Do not use cedar bedding (chips) or pine shavings with any reptile. Iguana warning: when putting large, tame adult iguanas on any new type of substrate, make sure they do not ingest substrate (mistaking it for food.)
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As you can see by the chart on the previous page, all reptile cage substrates have good and bad points. It is important to pick a cage substrate that has the highest number of positive features for your type of reptile. Many snakes, lizards, and turtles are very messy feeders and on some types of substrates the food items can (1) get mixed in with the substrate, (2) accidentally be ingested with the substrate resulting in tearing of the intestinal wall, or (3) provide a hiding place for the food source (i.e. live crickets or meal worms hiding in the pine shavings or sphagnum moss). There are certain substrates that are “species specific” and may be more beneficial to your reptile. Those substrates and the reason behind their application are listed below. REPTILE
SUBSTRATE
BENEFIT
Leopard Geckos, and other Terrestrial desert lizards, Sand Boas, Sandfish Lizards.
ReptiSand® Vita Sand® Excavator® ReptiFresh®
These reptiles either ingest sand as part of their dietary intake, or as in the case of the sandfish, burrow in the sand.
Green Iguanas and all high humidity loving lizards. (Tropical species)
Repti Bark® Forest Floor® Eco Earth®
When sprinkled with water, these decorative substrates gives off beneficial humidity. Bark simulates their natural habitat, and aids in proper shedding and respiratory functions.
Snakes
Aspen Snake Bedding
No toxic oils like cedar or pine shavings. Odorless and a 99% dust free green product from a renewable resource.
Amphibians (Frogs, Toads, Salamanders) Garter Snakes, Anoles
Sphagnum Moss New Zealand Moss Frog Moss Eco Earth®
A “moist” type substrate that helps to prevent amphibians from “drying out”.
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Do’s and Don’ts Do feed your reptiles a variety of foods if possible. Green iguanas, for example, should be fed a variety of foods like Zoo Med’s All Natural Iguana Food, kale, mustard greens, yellow squash, green beans, papaya, etc. Don’t take your reptiles outside in public in an irresponsible manner! Not only does it give the reptile industry a bad name, it can also cause stress, pneumonia and a series of other health problems. Do use a high quality reptile vitamin (i.e. Reptivite™) on your reptile’s food 2-3 times a week to add beneficial calcium, vitamins and minerals. Reptivite™ also aids in preventing stress related problems associated with captivity. Don’t put your terrarium in a window that gets direct sunlight as you can overheat and possibly harm or even kill your animal this way. Indirect sunlight, however, is beneficial for your reptiles. Remember though, glass filters out 95% of the beneficial UVB rays your reptile needs, so use Zoo Med’s ReptiSun 5.0 or 10.0 UVB bulb or Powersun UV with all lizards, turtles and tortoises. Do support your local reptile (Herp) society and plan on attending a reptile show. You will see a large variety of captive bred reptiles now being produced in your area and learn a great deal about species you may have. You never know, you may end up turning your garage or a bedroom into your own personal “reptile breeding facility”. I personally know of several people who make $50,000 - $100,000 per year breeding and selling reptiles! Don’t leave terrarium lights on at night. Reptiles need a “photo period” so turn the light off at night so they can sleep. Note: Ceramic Heat Emitters and Infrared Reflector Spot Bulbs can be left on 24 hours. Do buy a book on the specific type of reptile you are keeping so you can better understand and care for your reptile. Also, make sure that the species of reptile you are considering is appropriate for you. Consider potential size, diet, housing needs, personality, life span and temperament. Good Beginner Types of Reptiles: Bearded Dragons, Leopard Geckos, Ball Pythons (eat mice) and Crested Geckos. DON’T release pet reptiles into the wild. Pet reptiles may harbor diseases that could be easily transmitted to wild populations. Non-native pets may play a role in destroying local ecosystems or outcompeting native animals for food or other resources. It is important to know the local laws about collecting wild animals and never release your pet into the wild. Contact zoomed@zoomed.com and request a list of reptile rescue shelters in your area should you no longer be able to keep your pet reptile. 14
Terrarium Kits & Enclosures Terrariums Made in U.S.A.
ReptiHabitat Naturalistic Terrariums • Exclusive full front opening door. • Vertical orientation for arboreal species. • Available in 4 sizes. NT-1 12 x 12 x 12" (30 x 30 x 30 cm) NT-2 12 x 12 x 18" (30 x 30 x 46 cm) NT-3 18 x 18 x 18" (46 x 46 x 46 cm) NT-4 18 x 18 x 24" (46 x 46 x 60 cm)
Premium Reptile Habitat Kit • Available in the following sizes for the following species. NT-B21 20 Gal. Bearded Dragon Kit NT-T21 20 Gal. Aquatic Turtle Kit NT-S21 20 Gal. Snake Kit NT-A10 10 Gal. Amphibian Kit NT-L10 10 Gal. Leopard Gecko Kit.
ReptiBreeze • Open air aluminum screen cage. • Great for old world chameleons, juvenile green iguanas, anoles and other arboreal species.
Iguanarium Open air cage for large arboreal lizards such as medium to sub-adult green iguanas. Item# IA-30 Large Size 36 x 18 x 48" (91 x 46 x 122 cm)
• Available in 4 sizes: NT-10 NT-11 NT-12 NT-13
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16 x 16 x 20" (41 x 41 x 50 cm) 16 x 16 x 30" (41 x 41 x 76 cm) 18 x 18 x 36" (46 x 46 x 91 cm) 24 x 24 x 48" (61 x 61 x 122 cm)
Habitats & Enclosures Turtle Tub™ Zoo Med’s Turtle Tub™ replicates the natural “pond” environment that aquatic turtles naturally live in.
• Built in land/water area. • Large land area allows natural basking and egg laying behavior.
• Dark walls help in reducing stress. • Lightweight and easy to clean. • Made from 100% recycled plastic.
Made in U.S.A.
Item# TT-40
Turtle Tub™ Kit Kit Includes: Turtle Tub™, Reptile Lamp Stand, PowerSun® UV & heat lamp, Mini Deep Dome Lamp Fixture, 511 Turtle Clean Canister Filter, ReptiSafe® 8 oz. (.23 L), Eco Earth® 8 qt. (7.5 L), Forest Floor 8 qt. (7.5 L), Natural Bush plastic plant, Turtle Bone (2 cuttlebones), Red Shrimp 0.5 oz. (14 g) Aquatic Turtle Food (growth) 7.5 oz. (212 g) Water Turtle Care Book. Item# TT-40K
Tortoise House A home for your pet tortoise or box turtle.
• Wood sided (for privacy) design preferred by professional tortoise keepers.
• Use indoors/outdoors. Place outside in garden to provide beneficial sunlight/UVB rays.
• Includes: Private weatherproof “sleeping” area and lockable wire safety cover.
• Easy to assemble. • Modular-Remove end panel and connect a second Tortoise House to double the space! Item# TTH-1 36" x 24" x 12" (91 x 61 x 30.5 cm)
Tortoise Play Pen Outdoor shelter, exercise pen and food grazing enclosure for Tortoises.
• Place on your lawn and watch your tortoise feed on beneficial grass.
• Allows your tortoise to absorb natural UVB rays from sunlight, very important for their health and shell growth.
• Complete with “private sleeping area.” • Easy to assemble. Item# TPP-1
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19" x 16" x 39" (48 x 41 x 99 cm)
Reptile Organizations Herpetologist’s League www.herpetologistsleague.org
California Turtle & Tortoise Society P.O. Box 7364 Van Nuys, CA 91409-7364 http://tortoise.org
American Society of Ichthyologists and Herpetologists Florida International University Biological Sciences 11200 SW 8th St. Miami, FL 33199 U.S.A. www.asih.org
Turtle & Tortoise Preservation Group www.ttpg.org International Iguana Foundation 1989 Colonial Parkway Fort Worth, Texas 76110 www.iguanafoundation.org
Society for the Study of Amphibians and Reptiles www.ssarherps.org
Global Gecko Foundation c/o Charles Powell, II 2932 Sunburst Drive San Jose, CA 95111-2264 U.S.A. www.gekkota.com
Chicago Herpetological Society 2430 N. Cannon Drive Chicago, IL 60614 www.chicagoherp.org HCA: Hermit Crab Association www.heritcrabassociation.com
Caudata Culture (Amphibain care website) www.caudataculture.org
Reptile Publications Reptiles Magazine Subscription Dept. P.O. Box 58700 Boulder, CO 80323 www.reptilesmagazine.com
Herp Nation 1017 L Street #505 Sacramento, CA 95814-3805 www.herpnation.com
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Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc. • 3650 Sacramento Dr. • San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 Phone: (805) 542-9988 • Email: zoomed@zoomed.com