Zb 65 Guide to Tortoises by Zoo Med Labs

Guide to

Zoo Med’s

YOUR REPTI L VE

Tortoises

by Ashley Rademacher

Zoo Med's Guide to Tortoises by Ashley Rademacher

Table of Contents Introduction............................................................1 Is a Tortoise the Right Pet for Me?........................2 Temperature, Diet, Size, & Housing......................3 Enclosures..............................................................4 Substrate & Water Dish..........................................5 Hides, Lighting, & Heat.........................................6 Heating Elements...................................................7 Enrichments, & Types of Tortoises........................8 Humidity & Choosing a Tortoise.........................11 Purchasing............................................................12 Basic Tortoise Care..............................................13 Summary..............................................................17

Introduction: Tortoises are unique, amazing creatures that can make great, lifelong pets. Tortoise species are among the oldest and most primitive groups of animals in existence. Tortoises are found on every continent in the world except Antarctica. They range in size from the giant Galapagos Tortoises, Chelonoidis nigra, which grow up to 550 pounds to the smallest Speckled Padlopper Tortoise, Homopus signatus, which is only about 3-4 inches at maturity. Tortoises can live a very long time. Some tortoises have been known to live up to 150 years or longer. Tortoises can live in a variety of habitats and eat a variety of different diets. Some species get along well in groups and others live a more solitary existence. While some species are shy and fairly inactive, some tortoises are fun, intelligent, interactive pets that may learn to know their caretakers and respond excitedly upon their arrival. This guide is intended to be an introduction to the care of tortoises and should help you decide if a tortoise is the right pet for you. There are several different species of tortoise that are commonly kept as pets. This guide will introduce some of the most popular pet tortoise species and should help you decide what kind of tortoise would be best for you. It is strongly recommended to learn as much as you can about the specific species you choose before acquiring a tortoise.

Tortoises in History

Tortoises have been recognized all over the world throughout history. In some cultures, tortoises are associated with longevity and wisdom. Aesop’s story, The Tortoise and the Hare is about a slow tortoise in a foot race against a speedy hare. The hare in the story is filled with so much confidence that it will win the race that it stops in the middle for a nap and oversleeps allowing the tortoise to win. It is commonly told to children to prove that a slow and steady pace can win the race!

Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

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A tortoise is a turtle that spends all of its time on land. Tortoises generally have a hard, domed shell, elephant like feet, and are poor swimmers. The top part of the shell is called a carapace and the bottom part is called a plastron. The shell is covered with scutes that vary in size, shape, color and design depending on the species and individual. For most species, this shell provides them with protection from predators but can also be a hazard as a tortoise that gets stuck on its back may not survive.

Aldabra tortoise

Their legs, head and shell are covered in scales. Most tortoises have good eyesight and an excellent sense of smell. They have a beak - fairly similar to a parrot and do not have teeth. Carapace (upper shell) Scutes Eye Nose Beak Tail Armored skin Vent

Toenails

Plastron (lower shell)

Is a Tortoise the Right Pet for Me? There are several things to take into consideration before deciding to get a pet tortoise. First of all, these animals naturally live a very long time. Many tortoise species have been known to live 100 years or longer in captivity. With a lifespan like this, a healthy, well cared for tortoise will likely outlive its keeper. Before getting a pet tortoise, keep in mind that you will likely be caring for this animal for the rest of your life and may even need to leave it to someone in your will!

Zoo Medâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guide to Tortoises

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Temperature needs: Tortoises, like other reptiles are ecto-thermic which means that they depend on environmental heat to maintain their proper body temperature. Some tortoises may be allowed to cool down and hibernate for part of the year but others must be kept warm all year long. Building and maintaining the proper environment is one of the most important factors for the health of pet tortoises. If a tortoise is to be kept outdoors, arrangements may need to be made to ensure that the animal is kept at the proper temperature throughout the year.

Diet: Some tortoises have a very specialized diet. While some commercially Redfoot tortoise prepared diets are available for these animals, supplementation with fresh greens, fruits and vegetables is recommended. It is important to know which foods are appropriate and available. Specific foods and feeding will be discussed later in the book.

Size: Tortoise species vary in size quite a lot. Some animals may be suitable to keep indoors in a terrarium throughout their life while others will quickly outgrow a terrarium and indoor life. Those larger species should be kept in a large enclosure outdoors. The Sulcata tortoise or African Spurred Tortoise is one of these animals. Sulcatas are commonly found in the pet trade and may be one of the less expensive tortoises to purchase. This is the third largest species of tortoise and will easily grow to 100 pounds or more. These animals usually cannot spend more than a few years living in a terrarium indoors. It is important to learn how big your tortoise will grow and how long it will probably take to get that big so that the necessary arrangements can be made to provide long term housing for your pet.

Housing: One of the most important things to consider when deciding to get a tortoise is how you will house your pet. Young tortoises and smaller species do well in indoor enclosures when they are provided with the proper setup. Most realistic housing for larger animals however is an outdoor pen. Forsten's tortoise

Zoo Medâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guide to Tortoises

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Outdoor Enclosures: Many tortoises are best kept outdoors. When building a pen, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, choose a location that has access to direct sunlight for part of the day. The area should be protected from predators including domestic cats, dogs and raccoons at night. Many tortoises are excellent diggers, so it is a good idea to bury the fence at least 12 inches deep. Tortoises can be surprisingly good climbers so be sure that your tortoise cannot escape. There are many different materials that can be used to create a tortoise yard. Hog panel is a good fence material for a large tortoise. It is rigid, strong and is fairly easy to work with. Cinder blocks can be stacked to make a wall around your tortoise enclosure. A solid wall also creates a Marginated tortoise visual barrier which can reduce stress. Planting the grass in the yard can provide natural grazing for your tortoise and help add some humidity in an outdoor enclosure. If sod is to be used, it is important to be sure it is free of pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers. Using sod without netting is recommended as tortoises will often tear up the dirt and can get caught in the plastic netting. A shallow pool allows tortoises to soak and drink fresh water as needed. Tortoises cannot swim, so the pool should be shallow enough for the tortoise to easily lift its head above the water. It is important to provide hiding places for your tortoise. Large Habba Huts™ and Cork Rounds provide hiding places and shelter from the sun. For larger tortoises, it may be necessary to buy or build a dog house to provide shelter and hiding places. Tortoises must have access to shady areas on hot days, warm areas on cool days and dry, protected areas on rainy days. A tortoise can get very sick if it gets too hot, cold, wet or dry.

Indoor Enclosures:

HH-L Habba Hut™ It may be necessary to keep young tortoises and smaller species in an indoor terrarium. Very small tortoises may be kept in a 20 gallon tank, but keep in mind that tortoises will grow - some very rapidly, so an enclosure of this size should be considered temporary. Tortoises that

Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013

are four to six inches should be housed in nothing smaller than a 40 gallon breeder sized terrarium (36"Lx18"Wx17"H). Another good option is a Zoo Med Tortoise House to accommodate pets that are to be kept indoors.

NT-T41 Reptihabitat™ Tortoise Kit

Substrate: Zoo Med Tortoise House Substrate is the material that lines the bottom of your tortoise’s enclosure. There are several different types of substrate that are appropriate for use with tortoises. Repti-Cage Carpet™ is a liner that cannot be accidentally ingested and is ideal for hatchling tortoises. Substrates such as Eco Earth® compressed coconut fiber and Forest Floor™ cypress mulch can help retain moisture for animals that require high humidity. Many tortoises like to burrow so a loose substrate can help promote natural behaviors and reduce stress.

Water Dish: Some literature states that Tortoises do not need access to water as they can get much of their water from the food they eat. While many tortoise species do not naturally have access to standing water, in CM-8 Forest Floor™ ET-40 Eco Carpet™ EE-08 Eco Earth® nature, they have far more options for getting water and for minimizing water loss. Allowing tortoises to have regular access to water gives them the opportunity to drink or soak as they wish. While this is a luxury not afforded by all wild tortoises, access to water in captivity should not cause any harm to the animal. The water dish should be shallow and easy for the tortoise to get in and out of. A Repti Ramp™ bowl is perfect as it provides tortoises a ramp to get in and a ramp to get out of the water. Tortoises will often defecate in their water dish, so the dish should be cleaned and water replaced regularly. Water should be treated with a conditioner such as Reptisafe® to remove chlorine, chloramines and make tap water safe for tortoises. RRB-11 Repti Ramp™ Bowl

Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

WC-8 ReptiSafe®

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Hides: Shelter and hides are important components of a tortoise enclosure. Tortoises will often hide under rocks, bushes, fallen logs, etc in nature. While most species are protected by their bony shell, security of a hide helps reduce stress and build confidence in tortoises. Hiding places in nature are often more humid than the surrounding habitat. Even desert or grassland species, find comfort in these humid retreats. Access to a humid hide will help promote proper shell growth in tortoises. A humid hide may be created by adding damp moss or substrate under one hide in the tortoises enclosure.

Habba Hut™ with moss

Cork Round with moss

Lighting: Lighting is very important for the health and well being of a tortoise. A natural photo-period (day/night cycle) and exposure to UVA will help promote natural behaviors. Tortoises in nature experience periods of light and dark every day and it is important that this be replicated if a tortoise is to be kept indoors. A good day/night cycle for most animals is 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night time. Use of a timer makes providing a regular day/night cycle very easy.

LT-12 Repticare® Day Night Timer

UVB is part of the sun’s natural spectrum that allows reptiles to make their calcium own vitamin D3 which is essential for absorption. Exposure to UVB lighting is the most natural way for tortoises to get vitamin D3 and without it they may develop Metabolic Bone Disease and other disorders. Use of a Reptisun® or Powersun® UV will provide UVB lighting to an animal that is kept indoors. Tortoises that live outside will usually get enough UVB naturally from the sun and do not need additional UVB exposure. FS-C5 ReptiSun® UVB PUV-10 Powersun® UV

Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

Compact Fluorescent

©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013

Heat: Tortoises are ectothermic which means that they get their heat from the environment so it is critical that they have access to the proper thermal gradient. The temperatures required will vary depending on the species. This image shows how a thermal gradient can be set up. A basking area is the warmest part of the tortoises’ environment and for many species should reach up to 90 degrees or higher. On the opposite side of the enclosure, the temperature should be significantly cooler. The cool side of the enclosure is where the water dish and food should be kept. Providing a warm and cool zone allows a tortoise to move in and out of the heat as necessary to thermoregulate. If a tortoise is spending all of its time on the warm side, the enclosure may be too cool. If the tortoise is spending all of its time on the cool side, the enclosure may be too warm. Use of a thermometer at either end of the enclosure TH-27 Dual Analog will help the keeper to be sure that the proper thermal Thermometer & gradient is being achieved and maintained. Humidity Gauge

Heating elements: There are several different types of heating elements that can be used to help create a good thermal gradient for a pet tortoise. Some heating elements should only be used during the day as they create visible light that should not be used at night. A Basking Spot Lamp™, Repti Halogen™ Lamp or PowerSun® UV can be used to create the basking site during the day. These bulbs project the heat in a tighter beam to create a hot basking site. A Daylight Blue™ bulb may be used to create daytime heat. This bulb spreads the heat throughout the enclosure without making as much of a “hot spot”. Some heating elements may be used for night time heat or be left on all day as they do not produce much, if any, visible light and will not disturb a tortoises day and night cycle. An Under Tank Heater can be used to bring the temperature up in a glass terrarium. A Ceramic Heat Emitter, or Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp™ may be used to create heat 24 hours a day or at night time. A Reptitherm™ Habitat Heater is a good heat source for very large tortoise RS-75 Nocturnal RH-20 Reptitherm® Habitat Heater Infrared Heat Lamp™ enclosures. Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013

Enrichment:

Many tortoises love to graze. In nature, they would spend much of their time munching on grasses. A Tortoise Play Pen can be placed on a lawn outdoors in good weather to allow your tortoise(s) access to natural sunlight and grass to graze on. It is critical to be sure that the grass has not been treated with any pesticides or herbicides.

Types of tortoises:

Zoo Med's Tortoise Play Pen keeps your tortoises safe outdoors

There are over 45 different species of tortoise. These animals live in a variety of habitats but are usually put into one of two different groups – Forest tortoises and Grassland tortoises. The care for forest dwelling tortoises and grassland type tortoises is different. Forest tortoises are a smaller group of animals that live in forest areas of the world where there is commonly high humidity, more access to water and food items available that are higher in protein and sugars. Forest tortoises should be kept at tropical temperatures year round and do not hibernate. Some common Forest Tortoises that are available as pets are:

–FOREST TORTOI S ES– Redfoot/Cherry Head Tortoise Common Name: Redfoot/Cherry Head Tortoise. Scientific Name: Geochelone carbonaria. Range: Tropical South America. Size: 10-14”. Life Span: 40-50 years. Temperature: Day: 75-85°F (24-29°C), Basking: 90°F (32°C), Night: 65-70°F (18-21°C). Humidity: High 80% +. Diet: See Forest Tortoise Diet.

Redfoot Tortoise

Enclosure Type: Minimum 40 gallon terrarium or Tortoise House can be used to house young animals. Outdoor pen may be best for an adult. The Redfoot tortoise is an outgoing and personable species. This tropical animal must be kept warm all year and should not be allowed to hibernate. Hingeback Tortoise Common Name: Hingeback Tortoise. Scientific Name: Kinixys sp. Range: Central and East Africa. Habitat: Savanahs, coastal brush, forest. Size: 8-13”. Life Span: 20-50 years. Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013

Temperature: Day: 75-81°F (24-27°C), Basking: 83°F (28°C), Night: 65°F (18°C). Humidity: 70-90%. Diet: See Forest Tortoise Diet. Enclosure Type: Most Hingeback. tortoises are small enough to be housed Hingeback Tortoise indoors but will also do well in outdoor enclosures as long as the proper temperatures are maintained. A minimum 40 gallon tank or Tortoise House will work well for this tortoise while it is young. Hiding places must be provided as well as a shallow water dish for drinking and soaking. A predator proof enclosure must be used if the animal is to be kept outdoors. This species is

commonly wild collected so it is important to have your new pet checked out by a qualified vet and tested for internal parasites. Most tortoise species available to the pet trade fall under the category of Grassland tortoises. Grassland type tortoises are generally found in parts of the world where the food items available are low in protein and sugar and high in fiber. These animals often feed on nutritionally poor grasses and should not have fruits or animal proteins as a part of their regular diet. Some of the most popular Grassland type tortoises are:

–GRASS LAN D TORTOI S ES– Russian Tortoise AKA Horsfield’s Tortoise Common Name: Russian Tortoise AKA Horsfield’s Tortoise. Scientific Name: Testudo (Agrioenemys) horsfieldii. Distribution: Central Asia, Russia, Ukraine, Pakistan and Western China Habitat: Dry Savannah, low humidity. Size: 6-10”. Lifespan: 30-50 years. Temperature: Day: 70-80°F (21-27°C), Basking: 85-87°F (29-31°C), Night: 65°F (18°C). Diet: See Grassland Tortoise Diet. Enclosure Type: A minimum 40 gallon tank or Tortoise House will work well for this species. Russian Tortoise A predator proof enclosure must be used if the animal is to be kept outdoors. While this species can thrive in a fairly dry environment, it is important to provide a humid microclimate for them to retreat to. The Russian Tortoise is one of the most common tortoise species found in pet stores. This species is one of the few common tortoises that does not grow very large and can be housed indoors throughout its life. This species is commonly wild collected so it is important to have your new pet checked out by a qualified vet and tested for internal parasites. Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013

Greek Tortoise Common Name: Greek Tortoise Scientific Name: Testudo graeca Distribution: Southern Spain, Northern Africa, Eastern Europe and the Middle East. Habitat: Dry. Open forests, grasslands and deserts. Size: 6-8”. Goldern Greek Tortoise Lifespan: 40-50 years or longer. Temperature: Day: 75 -85°F (24-29°C), Basking: 95°F (35° C), Night: 70-75°F (21-24°C). Humidity: Low 30-50%. Diet: See Grassland Tortoise Diet. Enclosure Type: A 40 gallon tank or tortoise house will work well for small Greek Tortoises. Hiding places must be provided as well as a shallow water dish for drinking and soaking. A basking site and a UVB source are essential if housing this animal indoors. A predator proof enclosure must be used if the animal is to be kept outdoors. Marginated tortoise Common Name: Marginated tortoise. Scientific Name: Testudo marginata. Distribution: Greece, Italy, Southern Europe. Habitat: Arid Scrubland and rocky hillsides. Size: 10-14”. Marginated Tortoise Lifespan: 50-80 years or longer. Temperature: Day: 70-85°F (21-29°C), Basking: 90-95°F (32-35°C), Night: 65°F (18°C). Humidity: 50%. Diet: See Grassland diet. Enclosure Type: This tortoise may be housed indoors or outdoors in the right climate. A 40 gallon tank or Tortoise House will work well for Marginated Tortoises while they are young (first 1-2 years) but will have to be moved to an outdoor tortoise pen when they get older (over 6"). Leopard Tortoise Common Name: Leopard Tortoise. Scientific Name: Geochelone (Stigmochelys) pardalis. Distribution: Eastern and Southern Africa. Habitat: Semi-arid grassland, Low humidity. Size: 15- 18” 30-50 lbs (the 4th largest species in the world). Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

Leopard Tortoise

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Lifespan: 80- 100 years. Temperature: Day: 80-90°F (27-32°C), Basking: 90°F (29°C), Night: 70°F (21°C). Humidity: 50%. Juvenile Sulcata Diet: See Grassland Tortoise Diet. Tortoise Enclosure Type: Young tortoises can be housed indoors in a 40 gallon tank or Tortoise House. Adult animals will do best in a pen that is a minimum of 10’ x 10’. Hiding areas and basking sites must be provided. Sulcata Tortoise AKA African Spurred Tortoise Common Name: Sulcata Tortoise AKA African Spurred Tortoise. Scientific Name: Geochelone sulcata. Distribution: Northern Africa. Habitat: Sub Saharan grasslands. Adult Sulcata Tortoise Size: 80-200 lbs. (50+ years old!) Lifespan: 100 + years. Temperature: Day: 75-85°F (24-29°C), Basking: 95°F (35° C), Night: 70°F (21°C). Humidity: 50% (provide a humid microclimate for young). Diet: See Grassland Tortoise Diet. Add grasses, grass hay, and edible weeds when available. Enclosure Type: Juvenile animals may be kept in a 40 gallon tank or a tortoise house. Sub-adult to adult animals will probably require an outdoor pen. These tortoises are expert excavators and may dig very deep burrows. Care must be taken when building a pen for a Sulcata that the tortoise cannot dig out of the pen. SULCATA WARNING! Sulcata tortoises may grow very rapidly and will get very large. This is the third largest tortoise species in the world. While they are commonly found in the pet trade, consider very carefully before purchasing one of these animals if you will be able to provide adequate housing, heat and food for this tortoise. Several other species of tortoise are available as pets. It is very important to do ample research on the species you choose so that you can be sure that you will be able to provide for any special requirements the animal may have.

Choosing a tortoise: After you have decided which species is right for you, and have set up an enclosure, you are ready to choose a healthy animal. While you may find adult tortoises for sale from time to time, often you will find hatchling and juvenile tortoises for sale. Many of these young animals will be Captive Bred (CB) but you will want to ask the seller to find out for sure. Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013

Young tortoises are difficult if not impossible to sex. Many species have temperature determined sex – meaning that temperature at which the egg was incubated determines whether the hatchling is male or female. This method is not 100% accurate though, so when you purchase a young or hatchling animal, there is no way to tell for sure if it is a male or female. The first thing to look at is the enclosure that the animals being sold are kept in. Is the substrate being used appropriate for the species? Is it clean and free of excess waste? Is the tank over crowded with animals or are they being given adequate space? Is there appropriate food and water available to the animals? Is the tank being kept at the proper temperature and humidity with proper lighting? Next, check the individual animal itself for signs of illness. A healthy animal will respond when handled. It will usually pull its head and legs in when picked up. The eyes should be open and clear. Hatchlings are occasionally sensitive to bright light, so give them a few minutes to open up their eyes and look around. Discharge or bubbles from the nose are signs of a respiratory infection. It is best to avoid purchasing an animal with an obvious health problem.

Purchasing your tortoise: It is a good idea to have your tortoise’s enclosure set up and ready before bringing a pet home. Housing your tortoise in a temporary enclosure can be stressful while you get its permanent home set up. Setting up the proper temperature gradient, humidity and lighting can take several days or longer, so it is best to do this before you have your pet. There are several places where you can find tortoises available as pets. Local pet stores, tortoise breeders and reptile shows are usually good sources to get pet tortoises from. A local pet shop can be a good place to purchase a pet tortoise. Only purchase a tortoise from a pet store with specific knowledge of the tortoises they are selling and their care requirements. A pet store usually has the products you will need to care for your new pet available and can help you in putting your enclosure together. A tortoise breeder will usually have great knowledge of their species and what is required to care for them. They are often excited to share their experience with you and be available after the purchase to help you with questions and concerns regarding your pet tortoise. Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013

A reptile trade show will often have several species of tortoise on display and available for purchase. There are usually several people at a show who are familiar with the different species and their care requirements. The variety of species found at a reptile show is often broader than what is found at a local pet shop. A great way to obtain a pet tortoise is by adopting one from a Turtle and Tortoise Club. Tortoises are sometimes given up to Turtle and Tortoise clubs because an owner had to move, had a death in the family or for some other reason, could not provide proper care for their pet any longer. These organizations will often offer these tortoises for adoption to suitable families looking for a new pet. Tortoise club members are a great source of information as they are very knowledgeable about these animals and excited to share what they know with new tortoise families. Finding and joining a local chapter of a Turtle and Tortoise club is a great thing to do whether you plan to adopt or purchase a pet tortoise. Never remove a tortoise from the wild and keep it as a pet. Many tortoise species are protected by law and may be illegal to handle in any way if found in the wild. Wild animals can have a heavy parasite load or other diseases and may not survive life in captivity. As pet keepers, we have a responsibility to protect wild populations of animals too. No matter where you get your pet tortoise from, it is never ok to release one into the wild. Pet tortoises may harbor diseases that could be easily transmitted to wild populations. Non-native pets may play a role in outcompeting native animals for food or other resources. It is important to know the local laws about collecting wild animals and never release your pet into the wild.

Basic Tortoise Care: Once the tortoise’s enclosure is set up with the proper thermal gradient, lighting, substrate, and hides, the daily care is fairly simple. The temperature and humidity should be monitored and adjusted according to your species' needs. The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily by removing waste and uneaten food. The water dish should be cleaned and refreshed at least once daily or more often if needed. Dirty substrate should be completely removed and replaced as needed but at least every 2-3 months. Household WO-18 Wipe Out 1™ cleaners should not be used in a tortoise’s habitat. Zoo Med’s Wipe Out 1™ can be used to clean and disinfect glass enclosures, dishes and hides. The items should be rinsed thoroughly and allowed to dry before returning them to your animal’s enclosure. Feeding: Feeding time can be one of the most exciting times of the day for both tortoise and keeper. Some tortoises will learn to anticipate the arrival time of fresh food and stand in the feeding area waiting to be fed. For the author, one of the most rewarding parts of keeping tortoises is watching them greedily dig into a fresh plate of food and looking up with scraps stuck all over their faces. Providing a proper diet is critical for the health of a Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013

tortoise. Below are some examples of Grassland and Forest tortoise diets. Grassland tortoises thrive on a diet that is high in fiber and low in protein and sugars. An improper diet can lead to digestive problems, pyramiding in the shell and other deformities. Grassland Tortoise Food – Soaked with water = 30% Variety of fresh greens = 50-60% Fresh chopped or shredded Veggies = 10-20% Treats that are appropriate for Grassland Tortoises include brightly colored Hibiscus flowers and yellow Dandelion flowers. Only use foods that you are sure are free of pesticides and herbicides.

ZM-130 Grassland Tortoise food

Forest tortoises can handle a greater variety of foods including fruits and animal proteins. Below is an example of a forest tortoise diet – this one is specifically for a Redfoot Tortoise. Forest Tortoise Food – soaked with water= 30% Variety of fresh greens = 30% Fresh chopped or shredded Veggies = 20% Fruits – Fresh or Mix Ins = 10% ZM-49 Can O' Snails™ Animal proteins and insects = 10% Some Forest tortoises will enjoy occasional addition of a few other items such as Corn on the cob, mushrooms, and even hard boiled eggs. ZM-120 Forest ZM-151 Papaya These items should usually be considered treats Tortoise food Mix-ins and offered only occasionally. Supplementation: There are several different ways to make sure that your tortoise is getting all of the vitamins and minerals it needs.

A35-8 Reptivite™

A34-8 Repti Calcium™

TB-1 Turtle Bone™ Floating Calcium

BB-55 Tortoise Block

Reptivite™ should be used to provide vitamins. This powder can be sprinkled on the “salad” just before feeding. Repti Calcium® added to the tortoise’s “salad” will help with good bone and shell growth. Keeping a Turtle Bone™ or a Tortoise Block in the enclosure at all times allows the tortoise to supplement its diet with calcium and other minerals as needed. These items also help wear down a tortoises ever-growing beak to help prevent an overgrown beak. Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013

Greens make up a large part of a tortoises diet. The following are lists of the best choices, good choices and greens to avoid for your tortoises diet. STAPLE GREEN

OCCASIONAL

AVOID:

Chicory (Escarole)

Beet Greens

Iceberg lettuce

Collard Greens

Parsley

Cabbage

Dandelion Greens

Loose Leaf Lettuce

Bok Choy

Endive

Romaine

Grape Leaves

Spinach

Kale Mustard Greens Water Cress Turnip Greens

Vegetables are a good way to add variety to a tortoise’s diet. STAPLE VEGETABLE

OCCASIONAL

AVOID

Acorn Squash

Carrots

Potato

Butternut Squash

Sweet Potato

Broccoli

Kabocha Squash

Zucchini & Yellow Squash

Cauliflower

Pumpkin

Green Beans

Onions

Fruits are an important part of a Forest Tortoise’s diet. Fruits should not be fed to Grassland Tortoises! BEST FRUIT

OCCASIONAL

AVOID

Blackberries

Tomatoes

Oranges

Mango

Strawberries

Lemons

Blueberries

Banana

Limes

Prickly Pear Fruit

Kiwi

Grapefruit

Papaya

Peaches

Raspberries

Animal Proteins and Insects should not be offered to Grassland Tortoises but can be given to Forest Tortoises in small quantities. Live crickets, earth worms, red worms and mealworms are available and easy to feed. The movement of live feeders can entice a picky eater and provides behavioral enrichment by allowing forest tortoises the opportunity to chase or hunt their food. Zoo Med’s Can O’s are great for offering a variety of insects. Can O’ Snails™, Grasshoppers, Pillars, Mealworms, Mini Mealies, Super Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

Worms, Crickets and Mini Crickets are easy to feed and store. Some Forest Tortoises can occasionally have other animal proteins such as mice and eggs. Knowing the needs of the species will help determine if these food items are appropriate for your animal or not. Water is a very important part of a tortoise’s diet. While they are often able to get much of the water they need from their food, fresh clean water should always be provided in a shallow dish that is big enough for the tortoise to soak in. ZM-49 Can O' Snails™

Hibernation:

Some species of tortoise will hibernate in nature. When the temperature is low enough, they will usually burrow down into the dirt in a protected place and sleep anywhere from 2 – 8 months of the year. Hibernating pet tortoises is best left to more advanced keepers as there are several factors that must be just right in order for a tortoise to survive hibernation without resulting in any health problems. Before attempting hibernation, extensive research should be done and the tortoise must pass a pre-hibernation health check by a veterinarian (note: some turtle and tortoise clubs offer a hibernation clinic).

Health Issues: While there are several different health issues that can affect tortoises, many of these are husbandry related and can be avoided by providing proper lighting, heating, humidity, diet, and a clean, low stress environment. Most tortoises should have a relatively smooth shell that is free from “pyramiding.” Pyramiding is a condition where the scutes on the tortoise’s shell appear to be built up in a pyramid shape. This condition is thought to be caused by low humidity and improper diet. A diet that is too high in animal proteins and sugars and too low in fiber can contribute to improper growth such as pyramiding. Providing proper humidity and diet can help prevent growth problems such as pyramiding. Signs of illness can include, loss of appetite, moisture or bubbles coming from the nose, mouth breathing, runny or loose stools, or abnormal behavior. If any of these symptoms are observed, first all of the factors in the environment should be checked and corrected starting with temperatures throughout the enclosure and relative humidity. If there are no major problems with the temperature or humidity in the enclosure or if after correcting the problem the tortoise doesn’t show signs of improvement within a day or two, it should be seen by a reptile veterinarian. It is important to establish a relationship with a vet that is familiar with tortoises as this person may help you with your pet for many, many years. The vet will want to know several things about your animal and enclosure so you should be prepared to answer the following questions: Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

1- What are the temperatures in the enclosure? What is the humidity? 2- What kind of UVB light do you use? When is the last time it was changed? 3- What kind of substrate does your tortoise live on? When is the last time you changed it? 4- What do you feed your tortoise? What Hingeback tortoise supplements do you use? 5- When was the last time your tortoise defecated? What did it look like? 6- When did you get this animal? Where did you get it? Was it wild collected or captive bred? The answers to these questions can help your vet determine what could be going on with your tortoise and the best way to treat it.

Summary: Tortoises are intriguing animals that can make great pets. There are several different species to choose from that range greatly in sizes, colors, and personalities. They live in a variety of different habitats and have a variety of different needs. By reading this book, you should have a greater understanding of some of the different tortoises that are available as pets and a basic understanding of what their needs are. If you have decided that a tortoise is the right pet for you, below are some sources of additional information.

Websites:

www.Chelonia.org: This website has several care sheets and articles on many different species. www.TortoiseTrust.org: More care sheets and articles about tortoises. www.TortoiseCare.org: Care Sheets and information on keeping tortoises www.TTPG.org: The Turtle and Tortoise Preservation Group. www.ARAV.org: Association of Reptile & Amphibian Veterinarians.

Books: General Care and Maintenance of Popular Tortoises: By Philippe De Vosjoli Sulcatas – African Spurred Tortoises in Captivity: By Russ Gurley Redfoots and Yellowfoots – the Natural History, Captive Care and Breeding of Chelonoides carbonaria and Cheloinidis denticulate: By Amanda Ebenhack Leopard Tortoises – The Natural History, Captive Care and Breeding of Stigmochelys pardalis (formerly Geochelone pardalis): By Richard Fife and

Jerry Fife

Zoo Med’s Guide to Tortoises

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