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NEW FOREST DISCOVER ITS HIDDEN WILD SIDE

COUNTRYFILE ISSUE 178 JUNE 2021 £4.75

The Great British Get-together Small wonders How to identify voles, mice and shrews

• Britain’s top 20 family-friendly walks • Perfect parklands for outdoor gatherings • Delicious bakes for happy picnics

Song for a curlew

How nature inspires singer David Gray

DAREDEVILS OF THE PEAKS

Meet the pioneers of rock climbing OSPREY CHAMPION

RESCUE OUR RIVERS

One man’s fight to save a species

Can swimmers, anglers The magic of planting seeds and canoeists unite?

GARDEN MIRACLES

BY APPOINTMENT TO HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II SWAROVSKI OPTIK SUPPLIER OF BINOCULARS

CL POCKET NATURE IN YOUR POCKET SEE THE UNSEEN

EDITOR’S LETTER

HOW TO CONTACT US To subscribe or for subs enquiries: Domestic telephone: 03330 162112 Overseas telephone: 01604 973720 Contact: www.buysubscriptions.com/ contactus Post: BBC Countryfile Magazine, PO BOX 3320, 3 Queensbridge, The Lakes, Northampton NN4 7BF

Catching up with family and friends in our beautiful landscapes will make this summer special

All together now It may be tempting fate, but as I write this in mid-May, it is looking promising that over the summer we will all be able to catch up properly with family and friends. At last. No doubt there will still be Covid restrictions and many people will be nervous, not just about coronavirus but also about the prospect of social situations after months of isolation. The solution for many will be to meet family and friends outside. And to make that first meeting all the more special, we have a magazine full of ideas. Firstly, our marvellous country parks don’t get enough attention but they offer the range of landscapes, easy walking and facilities to make it a stress-free day out for all (page 56). On page 18, Neil Ansell helps us rediscover the wilder corners of the New Forest. Plus, on page 83, we’ve found a treasure trove of thrilling rambles to encourage even the most reluctant little legs into a family outing. As the father of an 11-year-old who loves adventures but protests about “not another one of dad’s boring nature walks”, I’ve taken note. Lastly, it’s great to welcome singer and songwriter David Gray to the magazine this month on page 40. A lover of remote places and a champion of the curlew, David talks about how wild nature infuses his new album. You can also listen to David and hear his music on our ‘plodcast’ – go to pod.fo/e/c6366.

To talk to the editorial team: Email: editor@countryfile.com Telephone: 0117 300 8580 (answerphone; please email rather than call) Post: BBC Countryfile Magazine, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST Advertising enquiries: 0117 300 8815 App support: http://apps.immediate.co.uk/support Syndication and licensing enquiries (UK and international): richard.bentley@immediate.co.uk +44 (0)207 150 5168

Follow us on Twitter: @countryfilemag Follow us on Instagram: @Countryfilemagazine Like us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/ countryfilemagazine Find us online for lots of bonus content: www.countryfile.com Download the official BBC Countryfile Magazine app from the Apple, Google Play or Amazon App Store.

Fergus Collins, editor@countryfile.com

DON’T MISS OUR POPULAR WEEKLY PODCASTS

Photos: Oliver Edwards, Getty, Dave Willis

A chance for a gentle escape into nature and the countryside. You can find all 100 episodes at countryfile.com/podcast

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS Neil Ansell, page 18 “For all its popularity, it’s still possible to lose yourself in the New Forest’s 200 square miles. Head out on to the heath. Don’t be scared to get your feet wet.”

www.countryfile.com

David Gray, page 40 “I see [the curlew] as fundamental to our culture. The idea of the curlew being gone just drains colour out of our land.”

Susie White, page 44 “As a child, I was fascinated by horse chestnuts that germinated in the leaf mould – a snaking root breaking from a conker, a bright new leaf.”

Contents

13 Get to know mice, voles and shrews

44 The wonder of seeds

Cover: National Trust Picture Library Photos: Getty, Alamy, 4Corners, Naturepl, Jason Ingram, David Taylor

32 How one man helped bring osprey back to our lakes

MONTH IN THE COUNTRY

FEATURES

6 13 JUNE IN THE COUNTRY

18 NEW FOREST FREEDOM

Make blackcurrant and bay leaf jam. Four books about rural ways of life. Take part in Open Farm Sunday.

13 SMALL MAMMALS GUIDE

On the cover

Join Neil Ansell on a rediscovery of New Forest National Park’s varied landscapes, from ancient woodland to lowland heath and valley mires.

On the cover

Identify mice, voles and shrews.

32 A RARE SPECIES

14 ON THE FARM WITH ADAM

We profile conservationist Roy Dennis and his heroic work to bring spectacular ospreys back to our shores.

Do you know what goes into the cow-feed behind your favourite beef?

40 SONG OF THE WILD ON YOUR COVER The stately parkland surrounding Killerton House and Garden in Devon offers an ideal spot for a summer picnic.

On the cover

Singer-songwriter David Gray talks about his passion for birds and how nature’s wild places inspire his work.

44 THE MAGIC OF SEEDS

On the cover

All plant life starts here. Susie White celebrates the everyday miracle of the seeds in our gardens.

52 RIVER GUARDIANS

On the cover

As pollution levels rise, so do the calls for anglers, swimmers and canoeists to join forces against the common enemy.

56 PERFECT PARKLANDS

On the cover

The 20 best country parks and green spaces for gatherings with family and friends this summer.

64 DELICIOUS PICNIC BAKES

On the cover

Make your summer get-togethers extra special with these impressive picnic bakes from Claire Thomson.

68 ROCK STARS

On the cover

As climbers compete in the Olympics for the first time this year, we take a look at the pioneers who first scaled the rock faces of Britain’s peaks and fells. www.countryfile.com

subscribe today and save with our special offer, page 30

56 Perfect parklands for get-togethers with friends

18 Discover the wild delights of the New Forest

64 Delicious picnic bakes

Great days out

REGULARS

FAMILY FRIENDLY WALKS

16 COUNTRY VIEWS

106 YOUR LETTERS

Wildlife surveys prior to rural building or development is vital for the care of our countryside, says Sara Maitland.

Have your say on rural issues.

30 SUBSCRIBE NOW!

108 SHORTS ON TRIAL We review the best walking shorts for summer adventures.

A special offer for new subscribers.

112 COUNTRY QUIZ 51 JOHN CRAVEN

Test your countryside knowledge.

We must boost investment in rural training to ensure the country has the skills required to meet new challenges.

113 COUNTRY CROSSWORD

102 BOOKS, RADIO AND TV

121 NEXT MONTH

What to read, watch and listen to this month.

What’s coming up in our coastal special.

Can you decipher these clues?

From a rural childhood to The One Show, country music has been my soundtrack. www.countryfile.com

On the cover

84 Lazy day on the lake Carsington Water, Derbyshire

88 Coastal caves and mines Chapel Porth, Cornwall

92 Snowdonia stories Beddgelert, Gwynedd

93 Giant’s resting place Wandlebury Country Park, Cambridgeshire

94 Conquer a mini-mountain Castle Crag, Cumbria

96 Wild wetland Stanwick Lakes, Northamptonshire

97 Fabulous falls Bracklinn Falls, Stirlingshire

98 Ambles and adventures

122 ELLIE HARRISON 105 MATT BAKER

83 Fantastic family adventures

A celebration of the often-unsung heroes who work tirelessly to give young people the opportunities they deserve.

Margam Country Park, Neath Port Talbot

100 Family-friendly nature trails Top seven, nationwide

Photo: Getty

JUNE IN THE COUNTRY PICTURES › WILDLIFE › PEOPLE & PLACES › COUNTRY KNOW HOW › FOOD

MEADOW MAGIC The delicate, conical blooms of common spotted orchid spike out of chalk grassland in the South Downs National Park. As the name suggests, it is the orchid you are most likely to see in Britain and its green leaves are ‘spotted’ with many purple ovals. Lime-rich but nutrient poor, chalk grassland offers ideal habitat for rare species such as pasque flowers, corn buntings, skylarks and Adonis blue butterflies.

WAR AND PEACE

Photos Naturepl.com, Getty

Behind the tranquil splendour of Leeds Castle in Kent lies its dramatic 900-year history as a Norman stronghold, medieval royal residence, Tudor palace, Jacobean estate and Georgian mansion. A site of ancient sieges and modern diplomacy, the castle is built on islands in a lake formed by the River Len.

DRAGONS AT DAWN

GREEN BEAUTY

Several four-spotted chasers roost on stems beside a marsh as dawn rises. With yellow spots on each side of the abdomen, these golden-brown dragonflies can be identified by the two dark spots on each wing. They are active in late spring and summer, hawking over water for prey and mating on the wing. The males are highly territorial.

Once a landscape scarred by the industrial excavation of peat, Somerset’s Avalon Marshes has transformed since the 1960s into a wildlife haven. Shapwick Heath NNR sits at its heart and offers flower-filled meadows, shady fern woods, secretive fens and reed-fringed open water. Explore the area in our podcast: pod.fo/e/cc44c

FREE FALLING One of June’s many joys is the sight of fresh green vegetation flourishing beside waterfalls brimming with spring rainfall and meltwater, before high summer dries the waterways and browns the leaves. The magical and secluded Middle Black Clough Waterfall lies near Woodhead Reservoir in Derbyshire – walk in wellies or waterproof boots through lush woodland before a short scramble to this special spot.

POSITIVE NEWS STORIES: LET IT GROW

Canal & River Trust

TOWPATH TRIAL The Canal & River Trust is currently undertaking a six-month trial across 375 miles of towpaths – almost a fifth of the Trust’s network – to assess the benefits of changing its mowing regime. The trial, which started in April, seeks to balance the needs of boaters, anglers and others accessing the water, while benefiting wildlife and saving on mowing costs for the charity (the Trust currently spends around £2 million a year mowing more than 2,000 miles of towpath between April and October). The reduction in mowing will encourage a greater diversity of plants and flowers to grow, offering more shelter and food sources for insects, birds, mammals and reptiles. canalrivertrust.org.uk

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LOVE YOUR VERGE Signs featuring fun and friendly wildlife characters can now be seen on Dorset’s verges, as part of Dorset Council’s #LoveYourVerge campaign, which aims to encourage Dorset residents and visitors to value verges and open spaces, in turn contributing towards tackling the climate and ecological emergency. Each sign includes a message explaining how that particular verge is being managed – look out for the bumble bee, mouse, grass snake, hedgehog and grasshopper. litterfreedorset.co.uk

Buglife B L I N E S : I N S E C T H I G H W AY S

Photos Alamy

The B-Lines network – a landscape-scale solution to reverse the decline in pollinating insects – is designed to reconnect the best remaining wildflowerrich habitats across the UK, enabling pollinators and other wildlife to move freely throughout the countryside. Working with farmers, landowners, local authorities and the general public, Buglife recently launched the complete B-Lines map for the UK, which includes over 1,500 hectares of B-Lines habitat. Are you on an insect highway? buglife.org.uk www.countryfile.com

MONTH IN THE COUNTRY

FROM THE BOOKSHELF:

Join Jamie McCoy as she opens the gates at Gorwel Farm in Bryngwyn, Wales

RURAL LIFE Great books about rural ways of life in times past

AKENFIELD by Ronald Blythe A peerless snapshot of life in a Suffolk village in 1967 through the words of its inhabitants. Essential reading for anyone wanting to understand farming and the English countryside.

S U N DAY 2 7 J U N E

LEAF Open Farm Sunday Find out where your food comes from as hundreds of farmers open their gates to the public A SHEPHERD’S LIFE by WH Hudson Precious conversations with a dying breed of countrymen and women – and the wildlife around them – on the chalklands of southern Wiltshire in the late 19th-century.

This year, LEAF Open Farm Sunday (LOFS) – farming’s annual open day – is putting a strong focus on hosting small, socially distanced farm walks and talks to provide an intimate insight to what happens on the farm. “We are seeing more people spending time in the great outdoors

and cooking from scratch, and there is a genuine interest across society to learn about where food comes from, the work farmers do and how the countryside is managed,” said LOFS manager Annabel Shackleton. Find an open farm near you at farmsunday.org

On this day... 14 June 1921

The Lark Ascending RURAL RIDES by William Cobbett This documents the early 19th-century countryside through the eyes of an opinionated social reformer and farmer as he explores the landscape on horseback.

On 14 June a century ago, the first orchestral version of Ralph Vaughan William’s The Lark Ascending – inspired by writer George Meredith’s 1881 poem – was performed. According to the composer’s second wife Ursula, Williams had “made the violin [played by Marie Hall, pictured] being, rather

THE FOREST TRILOGY by Winifred Foley Foley charts poverty and childhood in the Forest of Dean in the mid-20th century with a poignant blend of grim personal struggle set against unspoilt natural beauty. www.countryfile.com

than illustrating the poem from which the title was taken.” The composer began work on The Lark Ascending in 1914, just before the First World War.

Countryfile on TV BBC ONE, SUNDAYS 7PM 6 June Matt Baker visits Emmaus Norfolk, a rural homelessness project, and plants a sensory garden to help those with mental heath issues connect with nature. Charlotte Smith meets the Suffolk farmers who supply Emmaus with dairy products, and helps them bring in their herd of Montbeliardes, while Charlotte Lead investigates the rural angle to the ‘shadow pandemic’ of domestic abuse.

The Seasonal Table

BLACKCURRANT AND BAY LEAF JAM Join Kathy Bishop and Tom Crowford on their West Country smallholding Midsummer, and the fruit cage is glittering with berries. Red and white currants dangle in translucent bunches, backlit by the sunshine. The first handfuls of strawberries, blueberries and raspberries are ready to pick, and the blackcurrant bushes are heaving with dusky fruit. We pick a basketful, then head to the kitchen, grabbing an inkyfingered handful of bay leaves from the crumbling terracotta patio pot as we go. There is jam to be made. INGREDIENTS Makes approx. 9 x 300ml jars

1.2kg fresh or frozen blackcurrants 1.2ltr water 8 small bay leaves 1.3kg granulated sugar METHOD

1. Put the blackcurrants, water and bay leaves into a preserving pan, place on a high heat and bring to a strong simmer. Turn the heat down a little and let the blackcurrants cook gently for 15–20 minutes until they are soft and bursting. 2. Pour the sugar into the pan and stir slowly until dissolved. Turn the heat

up again and bring the mixture to a vigorous boil. While the mix is boiling, insert a jam thermometer to the pan. When the jam reaches 104°C it is at setting point. However, we tend to take it off the heat a little earlier at 102°C, so that the finished jam has a little more give in it and a less firm set. 3. Remove the bay leaves if you wish. Then pour the deep purple jam into clean, sterilised jars and seal. It should keep for around a year. Discover more recipes from Kathy and Tom on Instagram instagram. com/the_seasonal_table and their website theseasonaltable.co.uk

don’t miss!

NATIONAL CREAM TEA DAY 25 JUNE

HOW TO MAKE ...

THE PERFECT CREAM TEA

Heat the oven to 200ºC (fan) and line a baking tray with parchment. Sieve the flour into a large mixing bowl and stir in the baking powder and salt.

Using your hands, rub in the butter cubes until the mixture takes on the texture of breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and mix in thoroughly.

Make a well in the centre of the mixture and stir in the milk. Start to fold the mixture with your hands, gradually bringing it together to make a firm dough.

Turn the dough out on to a floured surface, knead, then roll until it is 3–4cm deep. Use a cutter to form the scones and put them on the baking tray.

Brush lightly with egg and bake for 10 mins or until golden brown. Serve with a dollop of clotted cream and your favourite jam – or is it the other way around? www.countryfile.com

Photos Alamy, Getty Illustrat on Enya Todd

What makes the perfect cream tea? For starters, you need to bake the perfect scone. Here’s how: You will need: • 350g self-raising flour, plus a little for dusting • 1 tsp baking powder • Pinch of salt • 85g unsalted butter, diced finely • 3 tbsp caster sugar • 175ml whole milk, slightly warmed • 1 egg, beaten, to glaze the top • Clotted cream • Jam

MONTH IN THE COUNTRY

ID GUIDE: 10 COMMON SMALL MAMMALS As you walk through woodlands, meadows or along rivers, you’ll hear the squeaks and rustles of rodents and other creatures. But what are they? Here’s a guide to 10 small mammals of the British countryside

HARVEST MOUSE

HOUSE MOUSE

YELLOW NECKED MOUSE

WOOD MOUSE

FIELD VOLE

Orange brown with a white underside and small ears, this tiny mouse of open fields builds a ball-like nest and eats seeds, fruit and insects. 5–8cm long, tail 5–8cm.

This small grey mouse of buildings and farmyards has small eyes and ears. It feeds on anything, especially seeds and invertebrates. 6–10cm long, tail 6–10cm.

Confined to deciduous woods of southern England, this large mouse is tawny above, white below with big ears and eyes. Eats seeds. 9–12cm long, tail 8–11cm.

Common in all habitats, this abundant mammal is dark brown with long tail, big ears and pointed muzzle. It eats fruit, seeds and invertebrates. 6–10cm long, tail up to 10cm.

Grey-brown with tiny ears and eyes, this common but shy vole makes tunnels in leaf litter and grass, eating shoots and roots. 8–11cm long, tail 2–5cm.

BANK VOLE

WATER VOLE

COMMON SHREW

PYGMY SHREW

WATER SHREW

A common vole of woodland and scrub. Warm brown with small ears and eyes, it runs rather than jumps and feeds on seeds, leaves and fruit. 8–12cm long, tail up to 5cm.

Rare after major decline. This large brown aquatic mammal has small ears and is often seen swimming. It eats waterside vegetation. Up to 22cm long, tail 14cm.

Our commonest shrew species is grey brown above, pale grey below, with long quivering snout. Voracious predator of invertebrates. 5.7cm long, tail 3–5.5cm.

Smaller than the harvest mouse. Brown with grey below, it lives in dense flora from mountain to marsh. Eats spiders, woodlice, beetles. 4–6.5cm long, tail 3–4.5cm.

Slate grey with a white underside, this aquatic species eats frogs and fish. Its bite is poisonous to small creatures. Up to 10cm long, tail 5–8cm.

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CONSERVATION MILESTONE

IN THE GARDEN: ESSAYS ON NATURE AND GROWING

Hazel dormouse

In this collection of short essays, 14 writers explore what growing, nature and gardens mean to them. “When I return from fetching the wheelbarrow, I find I am no longer alone,” writes Elizabeth-Jane Burnett in her essay How to Weed: A Writer’s Guide. “A robin is standing in the soil. Its red breast matches the earth so that it is hard to tell where one ends and the other begins. After watching me for a while, it launches a flurry up into the air, rapidly beating its wings – small phoenix, rising from clay. The robin is often associated with the spirits of humans who have passed away. It watches me from its landing place in the laurel hedge that my father planted.” Extract from In the Garden (Daunt Books, £9.99) www.countryfile.com

On 15 June, the People’s Trust for Endangered Species

carefully released.

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Adam Henson THE PASSION FOR PURELY PASTURE FED BEEF CATTLE flower-rich hay produces meat that’s higher in vitamin E and lower in saturated fats when compared to grain-fed beef.

ALL GRASS REVOLUTION This is how I feed my herds of rare breed and native cattle at home and it’s what my Dad did before me. Now, however, a rising number of farmers and meat-lovers insist that beef cattle raised solely on grass, year round, are miles better. I’ve seen herds of pedigree Herefords in herb-rich Cotswolds meadows, beautiful Red Polls used for conservation grazing on a key wildlife site in the Stroud Valleys

CONSUMER CLARITY

Adam Henson feeds his longhorn cattle a mix of grass and supplements – but is all-grass the future? and lovely, dumpy Belted Galloways on hillside pasture in mid-Wales. The impressive sight of these hungry herds is matched only by the enthusiasm of their owners for an all-grass system. John Price is a first-generation tenant farmer at the western end of the Brecon Beacons. His black-and-white ‘Belties’ are out on the rough moor grass all summer until the wet winter months, when they’re brought in and fed only hay or silage. “It’s more profitable for us purely because we sell the end product,” John said as we scattered hay for his cattle. “We need to make profit no question, but it’s about producing that high-end product.” John is a member of the ‘Pasture For Life’ scheme, which awards a certification mark for herds fed exclusively that way. He’d be the first to say there’s evidence that a diet of grass and

This can all be confusing for the consumer, who often just wants a tasty steak or affordable roasting joint. There’s a lot to consider. Meat labelled ‘grassfed’ can still have come from animals raised on concentrate feed for some of their life; it’s not the same as ‘free-range’ and it may or may not be ‘organic’. There are also the ethical arguments over the use of foreign-grown soya in some cattle supplements and the extent to which large-scale soy farming is responsible for the destruction of forests such as the Amazon. And another judgement has to be made, and it’s the best test of all: how does pasture-fed beef taste? In my experience, it has a distinctive sweetness and a certain tenderness. The class of pasture definitely makes a difference to the flavour. ‘Pasture For Life’ is eager to promote transparency and traceability. It’s a passion I share. There’s room in the market for all feeding systems, types of beef and prices. What’s most important is that the shopper knows what they’re buying and can make an informed choice at the meat counter.

Ask Adam: What topic would you like to know more about? Email your suggestions to editor@countryfile.com

www.countryfile.com

Photo: Sean Malyon,

o, what’s your beef? That’s not me picking an argument, it’s a real question. Grilled, barbecued or boiled, we Brits love our beef. It’s no wonder that the good old Sunday roast is considered by many to be our national dish. But not all beef is the same and, just like fine wines, British beef is sophisticated and varied. The beef producers of the British Isles provide us with some of the best meat in the world, thanks to the variety of breeds we rear, their distinct characteristics and our diverse landscapes providing a range of crops and grazing. We also benefit from the goodquality feed derived from the UK’s breweries, distilleries and flour mills. For generations, farmers have fed cattle a mix of grass and these manufactured supplements made up of grains, oils, soya for protein and added essential vitamins and minerals – especially in winter when the fields are bare.

As nature intended Now in its fifth year, the Jordans Farm Partnership continues to prove farming and biodiversity really can go hand in hand

long with producing delicious oats, nature has long been at the heart of Jordans Cereals. That’s why each of its 31 farmers dedicate at least 10% of their land to wildlife as part of the Jordans Farm Partnership (JFP). Wildlife Trust advisors such as Matt Dodds, a Planning and Biodiversity Manager with the Herts and Middlesex Wildlife Trust, are vital to the partnership, ensuring that the nature on Jordans farms not only survives but thrives. Here, he reveals just some of the ways he’s helping the farmers to embrace nature like never before…

Matt Dodds

Guy Tucker

Over the hedge On farms, hedges are often the most natural and productive habitats – they’re a network refuge. Wildlife hedge laying involves dropping the whole hedge over to retain and create more habitat. By leaving more volume at the base, you’re providing the perfect environment for the animals to tuck themselves in.

Wildlife wonders While surveying the woodland on Fergus Lyon’s Easthall Farm, with the help of the Hertfordshire and Middlesex Bat Group, we discovered one of the largest maternity populations of the barbastelle bat in the whole country. Now Fergus is working to encourage larger insect numbers to feed the bats with help from the JFP. We’re already up to 12 different roost sites and have even located the bats’ foraging areas. This is an example of one of the discoveries

that have been facilitated by partnership working on farms within the Jordans initiative. Guy Tucker’s Greenhall Farm is another great example. He’s erected barn owl boxes and established grass margins, though one of his biggest successes came from his use of a wild bird seed mix. When a local bird club surveyed his land, they found the highest recorded number of linnets – which are a red-listed farming bird of conservation concern – in the county!

Working in harmony The majority of land in this country is farmed, but without supporting biodiversity, we could end up with a catastrophic ecological collapse, so the two must go hand in hand. The genius of the JFP is that it provides an incentive to farm for wildlife, as well as for food. We should be thinking of nature in everything we do.

Find out more about what Jordans does to protect nature at jordanscereals.co.uk

OPINION

Sara Maitland Wildlife surveys prior to development are vital for the care of our countryside Illustration: Lynn Hatzius

One of my brothers, a dairy farmer in south-west Scotland, has decided to construct a solar array on his land. A solar array generates electricity ‘renewably’ (sunlight being, we very much hope, renewable!) and feeds it into the national grid. As the generators are low lying – being horizontal rather than vertical – they are far less visually intrusive than wind turbines. Obviously and properly, any such project in a rural area requires planning permission and planning permission of the requisite kind requires a wildlife survey. In Scotland, all wild birds are protected species and therefore come under the remit of such a survey (along with bats, badgers and various other species). A bird survey is not, obviously, a one-off event, but needs to happen through the seasons of a whole year. Many birds migrate: some pass through southern Scotland on their way to somewhere else; some, like geese, are resident in southern Scotland through the winter; some, like swallows, are resident through the summer; some, like curlews, are shortdistance migrants, coming up from the coast to breed on the hills. So, naturally, the survey takes some time. The survey is trying to ascertain which bird species are using the area and whether the proposed construction will 16

ENTHUSIASTIC ATTENTION

area and marked on it any birds they saw along with the time (a sensible precaution against counting twice something they each saw once). They infallibly recognised not only the breed but the gender, and they saw birds in trees and on the ground that I would have missed altogether. As well as knowledge, they had love, mainly expressed as enthusiasm. We walked for about two hours and, when we had completed the circuit, one of them went out again to do a second kind of survey, where she would sit still for a couple of hours and record the birds that flew overhead. Sadly, they told me that too many people really resent having to accommodate the survey. Sometimes this is because they didn’t realise they had to get it done before they applied for planning permission and so their timetables can be thrown out, but for some it is just seen as more tiresome bureaucracy and interference. Of course, I am not planning to invest or develop ‘my’ land in the way that farmers may be, but it seems to me that there’s a genuine common interest in our countryside and that the people who work it are also its guardians. If there were such a bird as the wombattal snippet, I would want to know if it was nesting in my field.

I went out with the two surveyors who are dealing with this site. We did a walking survey. The two of them walked a few hundred yards apart, each carried a map of the

Have your say What do you think about the issues raised here? Write to the address on page three or email editor@countryfile.com

present hazards for particular species. In an extreme case – if, say, it turned out that your site was the only nesting ground in the whole of the UK for the wombattal snippet (a bird I have just invented) – the survey could lead to a total refusal of planning permission. It’s more likely, however, to lead to required ‘mitigations’. For example, in the middle of my brother’s proposed site there is a small area of rough ground close beside a wood with a burn running through it. The surveyors have decided it provides a specific habitat not otherwise available nearby and therefore shouldn’t have any generators placed on it.

Sara Maitland is a writer who lives in Dumfries and Galloway. Her works include A Book of Silence and Gossip from the Forest

www.countryfile.com

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Correct at time of print.

DISCOVER

REDISCOVER THE NEW FOREST

Planted in the late 1850s, an impressive collection of towering Douglas firs, giant sequoias and redwoods reaches up to the heavens along the circular Tall Trees Trail in Blackwater in the New Forest National Park. Feel dwarfed by the tallest giant sequoia, at 51 metres high

Photo: Getty

With ancient trees, communal farming and modern amenities, the New Forest National Park is a vast playground for explorers, says Neil Ansell. Its landscape of woodland, lowland heath and valley mires creates an extraordinarily rich mix of habitats for some of Britain’s rarest species

Numbering around 5,000, the free-roaming New Forest ponies are a native breed and are often seen in small groups grazing on open moorland. While they seem wild, each pony is owned by a New Forest commoner and carries its owner’s brand

WONDER SEEDS Plants produce dramatically different seeds – designed to reproduce in completely different ways 1 Old Man’s Beard Clematis vitalba Dispersed by wind, wild clematis seedheads are silvery, curling and silky haired, hence its common name of ‘Old Man’s Beard’.

A handful of sea-holly seeds, a native plant found along Britain’s coastline (see box, page 48) Animals – including humans – are also useful in spreading seeds about. Forget-me-nots, agrimony and avens stick to my gloves when I’m gardening and I take care after a walk not to bring back the hooked seedheads of burdock attached to my clothes. It was through examining their burrs under a microscope that George de Mestral came up with the idea for Velcro fastening. And how tempting it is for children to scrunch up a ball of goosegrass and throw it at an unsuspecting back. Some seedpods explode. Among the delightful local names for greater stitchwort – I especially like ‘daddy’s shirt buttons’ – is ‘popgun’, inspired by the way the seed capsules snap open as they fire out their seeds. Himalayan balsam, an invasive intruder along our river systems, owes its success to the catapulting mechanism of its seedpods. Gorse, broom, mole plant and stork’s-bill all fling their seeds well away from the original plant. Harnessing the wind is yet another technique that plants have evolved. Sycamore seeds twirl to the ground like mini helicopters, dandelion clocks are

blown apart in a puff of wind, thistledown and willowherb become sucked along by the wind of traffic on motorways and railways. This potential for spreading life is something that thrills botanist Dr Trevor Dines of the conservation charity Plantlife. “There’s a breathtaking and almost indescribable magic to the unexpected appearance of a plant from seed,” he says. “From a poppy popping up from a pavement crack to an orchid springing up in an unmown lawn, it’s a demonstration of nature’s hand at work, which our own hands just cannot match.” If we harness this vitality in our gardens, giving plants the freedom to choose where they want to grow, the result is a relaxed and natural effect. Collecting and sowing our own seed is a chance to marvel at their wonderful diversity and beauty.

“If we harness this vitality in our gardens, the result is a relaxed and natural effect”

SEEDS ON YOUR PATCH My style of gardening is of free-flowing planting inspired by the hay meadows of the North Pennines. I grow 70 species of wildflowers, cheerfully mixed in with cultivated varieties, and I especially value the random unexpected nature of self-seeders.

2 Field poppy Papaver rhoeas Ripe poppy capsules, buffeted by wind, shake their contents like pepper pots. The tiny seeds are eaten by birds. 3 Melancholy thistle Cirsium heterophyllum Like many other thistles, this beautiful plant has purple flowers that attract insects and fluffy seedheads that expand in windblown drifts. 4 Mole plant Euphorbia lathyris This introduced euphorbia often pops up unexpectedly in gardens. Seed capsules split open with a loud snap on hot days. 5 Common spotted orchid Dactylorhiza fuchsii Dependant on a symbiotic fungal partner to germinate and grow, common spotted orchids produce many thousands of tiny windblown seeds. 6 Sycamore Acer pseudoplatanus Beautiful in their symmetry, sycamore seeds are a pair of V-shaped wings containing fruits that spiral down to the ground. 7 Horse chestnut Aesculus hippeastrum Gleaming mahogany conkers are encased inside spiky green husks. These glossy seeds are mildly toxic to humans, but can be eaten by deer and wild boar. 8 Rosebay willowherb Chaemerion angustifolium Seed capsule splits lengthways, with four sections curling backwards to release a mass of tiny feathered seeds that drift on the wind. 9 Marshmallow Althaea officinalis The seedhead of marshmallow looks like a padded button. Pull it apart and it reveals neatly packed flat discs of seeds. www.countryfile.com

Verderer’s Court in Lyndhurst which adjudicates on forest law, and overseen by a team of agisters who help manage the commoners’ stock, supervising the annual round-up known as the drift. And yet for a working landscape, it is incredibly kind to the natural world. It is one of the richest habitats in Britain – if not in Europe – for flowering plants, fungi, lichens, insects, reptiles and birds (see box below). There are plants and animals here that have been almost entirely lost elsewhere. Indeed, there are some species found only here. We are so accustomed to thinking of human use of the land as being inherently destructive of nature that it is somehow deeply reassuring to see that, actually, it can be possible for the two to exist in harmony. But it is a fine balance, and we need to recognise as visitors that this is a shared space and does not exist solely for our pleasure. We need to treat the place responsibly and not do anything that could jeopardise that fragile balance.

WOODS AND TREES

The unique landscape here is a reminder of what much of Britain would once have looked like. It is still a working common, in effect a huge unfenced communal farm, the largest area in the lowlands that escaped the depredations of the Inclosure Acts. New Forest ponies are ubiquitous, as well as the commoners’ cattle, and pigs are let loose in autumn for pannage, hoovering up the year’s acorns. These rights of common are closely guarded, presided over by the

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Around 3,000 cattle graze in the New Forest in the summer months; in autumn, pigs are released into the forests to perform the vital task of eating fallen acorns, beechmast and other nuts (green acorns are poisonous to ponies and cattle); discover ancient trees in Berry Wood in the west of the park

WILDLIFE SPECTACLES In July, where the heather is at its tallest, you may come upon a colony of beautiful silver-studded blue butterflies (far right). These are rare in the UK but abundant in the forest, and you may see hundreds. In early summer, go to where the woods meet the heath at sunset, and listen for the strange mechanical churring of the nightjar; you may see one gracefully swooping in the half-light in its hunt for moths. The woodlark (right), a rare heathland bird, is small and unassuming. Then it starts to sing, a song

held by some to be the most beautiful of all. There are five species of deer in the forest, but you’re most likely to see roe deer in the woods and fallows on open ground. A small number of fallow deer are pure white, always a special sight. To see avocets, head to marshes at Keyhaven and Pennington.

ROLLING HEATH The first-time visitor may be surprised to find, however, that only about half of the New Forest is actually wooded. Most of the rest is lowland heath, great expanses of heather dotted with gorse brakes, a rare and declining habitat both nationally and www.countryfile.com

Photos Getty, Alamy, Chris Button

HERITAGE TERRAIN

While there are Forestry Commission plantations, most of the woods here are pasture woodland, freely grazed by ponies, cattle and deer. These open woodlands of mostly mature oak and beech with an understorey of holly are utterly distinctive. They contain by far the largest concentration of ancient trees in western Europe and, being largely unmanaged, are filled with fallen trees and deadwood, an important factor in the richness of this habitat. Tidiness is not kind to wildlife. And continuity is a factor too; these woods have been like this since at least when the forest was founded 1,000 years ago, and likely for much longer still. That incredibly rich chain of connections between a multitude of species has never been broken. A favourite site of mine is Berry Wood, near Burley Street, perhaps because this was the first place I camped as a child, back when wild camping was still permitted. Also nearby is Soarley Beeches, a copse of ancient beech trees isolated on the heath.

With a girth of eight metres, the majestic, gnarled Gritnam Oak in Gritnam Wood is estimated to be 704 years old, one of several ancient oaks in the New Forest’s unenclosed woodlands

An angler in the River Wye at Builth Wells in Powys. Fishing allows time to observe the natural world and many anglers work hard to keep river waters and their wildlife healthy

GUARDIANS OF THE RIVER ave Collins looks after the river for his local angling club in Wales. He is 75 now and retired from a research and development career in agrichemicals. He is a passionate fly fisher and became a river bailiff in 2015, just before the first pollution incident wiped out much of the life on the Afon Llynfi, a small river in Powys.

D 52

It took Collins and his angling colleagues four years to fix the damage from that first spill. Then another pollution event struck at the end of July 2020. This time the water levels were lower, the flow slower and the damage more severe – it was a ‘wipe out’ of life in the river. As yet, no one has been held responsible. Collins describes to me the morning he discovered the pollution. “Seeing a

river where every fish is dead is one thing. To be actually standing in the margins and seeing brook lampreys and bullheads still squirming and in the process of dying is something else. You are actually witnessing death, not the consequences of it.” As an angler myself, I can only imagine what it must feel like to stroll down the fields one morning and watch your river die. But one thing of which www.countryfile.com

Photo: Alamy

As people flock to our rivers in summer, Andrew Griffiths acknowledges the role anglers play in protecting our waterways and urges all river users, including canoeists and swimmers, to unite to defeat the growing scourge of pollution

globally. In the south of the forest, the heaths are flat; the great expanse of Beaulieu Heath was once used as an airfield, while further north the topography becomes more varied, from the rolling heather slopes west of Brockenhurst to the high ridges of the north of the forest such as in the vicinity of Godshill. The forest holds much the largest area of lowland heath that still remains, and is home to some elusive species of bird, such as the Dartford warbler, the woodlark and nightjar, as well as to all of our species of reptile, including the exceedingly rare sand lizard and smooth snake. In early summer, the heath is dotted with beautiful heath spotted-orchids and then, in August, the heather comes into full bloom and swathes the rolling hills with a purple haze. Keep your eyes to the sky, too; the forest is home to an extraordinarily wide range of birds of prey, including scarce summer visitors, the elusive honey buzzard and the impossibly graceful hobby.

MIRES AND WADERS Where water gathers between the low hills, valley mires have formed; these almost impenetrable bogs add a touch of genuine wildness to an otherwise well-trodden landscape. These are a hugely valuable habitat and vanishingly rare; there are only 120 valley mires in western Europe, and 90 of them are in the New Forest. They are a gift to breeding waders in the midst of a steep population decline, to specialised bog-flowers such as the carnivorous sundews, and to rare insects. Sit beside one and you may be lucky enough to hear the insistent call of a lapwing or the plaintive trill of a curlew, sounds that have now been

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Rhinefield Bridge over Blackwater Stream takes you towards the Tall Trees Trail; the extremely rare smooth snake (Coronella austriaca) is found in the New Forest and only a few other heathland sites in the UK; the New Forest is a stronghold for increasingly rare heathland specialist, the Dartford warbler

Photos Getty, Alamy, Naturepl.com, Brian Terrey

BEAUTY OF THE SEASONS The forest is at its busiest during the summer months and on bank holidays; it’s worth paying a visit when it’s quieter. The forest is perhaps at its most beautiful in the autumn, when the leaves are turning and the forest floor is ripe with mushrooms. Over 2,000 species of fungi have been recorded here, with more being found all the time. In winter, when the heaths can appear bleak, perhaps try a trip to the coast and visit Lepe Beach (pictured). Walk the seawall between Lymington and Keyhaven, part of the Solent

www.countryfile.com

Way long-distance footpath, for fine views over to the Isle Wight. The nature reserve attracts huge numbers of winter wildfowl and waders, as well as smaller numbers of beauties such as the avocet and spoonbill. If you’re there as the tide is turning, a torrent of birds may flow overhead, passing between the mudflats and the saltmarsh.

lost to most of England. Summer is the season for dragonflies and damselflies; three-quarters of British species can be spotted here, including some unlikely to be seen anywhere else. The mire at Hincheslea Bog between Brockenhurst and Sway is crossed by a causeway, so you can get an idea of what it looks like to be in the middle of one, rather than on the outside. From one of the many little wooden bridges crossing the forest’s waterways, perhaps at the upper reaches of Highland Water or Bartley Water, follow a stream as it winds its way into the woods. Sit on the roots of an old oak at the water’s edge and watch over the never-ending flow of the stream. If you wait long enough, a kingfisher will zip by in a flash of colour. Slow yourself down, listen to the birdsong and take in the atmosphere. Focus your attention. Consider the moss beneath your feet and the lichen crusting the branches. Place your hand on the trunk of the old oak and reflect that it has been there since long before you were born, and will still be there long after you have gone. CF

Neil Ansell is a print and broadcast journalist and the author of four books of nature memoir. His new book The Circling Sky: On Nature and Belonging in an Ancient Forest, recounts a year of walks in the New Forest (Tinder Press, £18.99). 25

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COUNTRY PARKS

1. CULZEAN CASTLE, MAYBOLE, AYRSHIRE The magnificent 260-hectare estate that surrounds this palatial clifftop castle encompasses sandy beaches, ancient caves, hidden follies, wild woods, a lake, play areas and café. Spot deer, llamas, wildfowl and butterflies. nts.org.uk/visit/places/culzean www.countryfile.com

STAY

6 CAMPING : Around the fringes of the New Forest, there’s a wide choice of campsites, from basic to luxurious. There are 10 campsites in the open forest itself, some of which have no services and are aimed more towards owners of mobile homes, but there are four campsites for tented camping. Ocknell has a particularly fine location; from £13.95 a night. Book all 10 sites through campingintheforest.co.uk.

ADVENTURES 5 Giant tree hunt If you have a few days in the forest and want an adventure, why not try to see how many of the forest’s giants – the most massive and ancient trees – you can track down. Here is a guide, complete with grid references. bitly.ws/cTv7

New Forest Reptile Centre, Lyndhurst 6

The reptiles of the forest are elusive and hard to

spot, but you can see them all at this conservation centre, due to reopen this summer. forestry england.uk/new-forest-reptile-centre 7 Bolderwood Deer Sanctuary A herd of wild fallow deer has become used to supplementary feeding here, April to September. You are almost guaranteed good views from the viewing platform. new-forest-national-park. com/bolderwood-deer-sanctuary.html

MID RANGE 10 Beaulieu Inn There are many modestly priced hotels to choose from, especially in the larger villages. Right by Beaulieu Road station, Beaulieu Inn is accessible but otherwise isolated on the open heath, with the stylish The Drift pub just next door. Double rooms from £120. beaulieuinn.newforesthotels.co.uk

Photos Alamy, Getty, Amy Murrell

WALKING

8 Hampton Ridge/Pitts Wood walk From Frogham, walk up on to Hampton Ridge, a high gravel ridge that offers some of the most spectacular big-sky views in the forest. The route passes Ashley Walk bombing range, where you can spot structures that are relics from the Second World War. Return via lovely Pitts Wood. 9 Acres Down Woodland walk Acres Down, near Minstead, is a great mix of woodland and open ground and a known hotspot

for rare birds of prey, including goshawks and honey buzzards. There is the option of a three-mile circular walk on a well-made gravel path, suitable for those with buggies or wheelchairs and for when the ground elsewhere is just too boggy.

Guided walks If you’d like extra help for your explorations of the forest’s nature, then Wild New Forest organises guided walks with experienced local naturalists; from £10 per adult. wildnewforest.co.uk

TREAT 11 The Lime Wood Hotel If your tastes veer more towards the luxurious, there are plenty of five-star hotels to choose from. The Lime Wood near Lyndhurst even has a helipad – always useful, I find, for when I want to arrive in style. Double rooms from £395 per night. limewoodhotel.co.uk

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A rare species

Photos: RSPB Images, Nature PL

At waterside sites across the UK, the once-vanishing osprey can now be seen hunting and breeding, thanks largely to conservationist Roy Dennis. James Fair profiles the man and his heroic effort to bring this spectacular raptor back to our shores

A combination of remarkably keen eyesight, lanky legs, large scaly feet, small spines on their toe pads and reversible toes make the osprey a formidable hunter of fish ABOVE Also a writer, lecturer and broadcaster, Roy Dennis has worked in bird conservation since 1959 and, in 1992, was awarded an MBE for services to nature conservation www.countryfile.com

ou would have thought that ospreys would have learned to build nests by now. But as a young conservationist working in the north of Scotland in the early 1970s, Roy Dennis made a crucial discovery: they’re a bit rubbish at it. Or some ospreys are – young ones especially. “We noticed that they were building poor nests in poorly chosen trees, and then they started breeding and the nest was blown down,” Dennis, now in his 80s, tells me on a Zoom call from his home in the Findhorn Valley in north-east Scotland. “We just thought, this is stupid – we can build better nests than that.” And so they did. The story illustrates both Dennis’s can-do attitude and his acute naturalist’s perception. These two qualities have made him the driving force behind some of the most important British wildlife conservation successes of the past half century, which have now been properly told for the first time in his new book Restoring the Wild: Sixty Years of Rewilding Our Skies, Woods and Waterways. But why would ospreys be bad at building nests? It doesn’t make sense. What you have to understand, Dennis explains, is that in the 1970s, ospreys were incredibly rare in Britain, with just one pair nesting at Loch Garten in Scotland; today there are at least 300 breeding

“Ospreys will usually renovate an old nest rather than build a new one from scratch” 1 By about six or seven weeks, osprey chicks will start exercising their wings to prepare for flight 2 At Dyfi Estuary in Wales, an attentive male and female guard the nest

pairs across the UK. In a healthy population, in contrast, there are old osprey nests dotted all over the countryside, and birds arriving back from migration will usually renovate an old nest at the beginning of the season rather than construct a new one from scratch. Though to the casual observer, an osprey nest looks like a ramshackle construction of www.countryfile.com

OSPREYS

THE LIFE OF AN OSPREY • Ospreys are present in Britain for five to six months of the year, travelling more than 6,000km from West Africa to breed here, arriving in March or April. • They are fish-eaters, snatching species such as trout, perch, grey mullet and flounder (in the UK) from the water with their talons. • They’ll nest close to any large body of water, such as a lake, loch or estuary, where they hunt. Flying as high as 90 metres, once they spot a fish, they go into a steep dive, stooping at a maximum of 125km/h. • They start breeding at three to seven years of age, and established pairs will usually produce three eggs a year and can often fledge all three chicks. • They have brown-and-white plumage, dramatic yellow eyes and a wingspan of up to 1.8m. As with many raptors, the females are bigger than males – about 20% larger. • Though still rare in the UK, worldwide, ospreys are found on every continent except Antarctica. 3 twigs, it is in fact more complex, Dennis says. You must use dead (not green) sticks and you start at the base with bigger ones, gradually using smaller ones as you build the height up to about 60cm. “You put dead grass and moss in it, then fill it up with leaf mould or rotted straw,” Dennis continues. The nest is not a cup but has a flat top, and when the male osprey returns, he digs a ‘scrape’ in which the eggs are laid. “Once the young are growing, they make it flat again because that’s easier for the young, who want to run around.” And so Dennis and his colleagues built nests and protected them from egg thieves and the occasional pine marten. Their work helped the population expand across Scotland, but the birds stubbornly refused to move into England or Wales in any significant way.

Photos: Nature PL, RSPB Images

FIRST SUCCESSES So in the early 1990s, plans for a translocation programme of ospreys to Rutland Water in the East Midlands were hatched. It sounded like a great idea, but not everyone was enthusiastic. For a start, the conservation ethos at the time was mainly to record what was happening to species, not give them a helping hand. “And then the warden of Loch Garten said to me: www.countryfile.com

4 3 An adult osprey tucks in after a successful hunt 4 Roy Dennis aged 11 holding a tame jackdaw and a shelduck near his home in Hampshire

‘If you have ospreys nesting in Rutland Water, the English won’t be coming up to Scotland to watch them’,” Dennis recalls. Even today, he adds, some purists say that birds reintroduced to new areas aren’t ‘real’, unlike those that return of their own accord. Dennis clearly thinks such an attitude is all rather silly. Despite those objections, the Rutland translocation did happen. Using a method developed in the USA, chicks were taken from Scottish nests, then raised in cages before being allowed to fly off, while still being provided with some food. In recent years, up to 10 pairs have nested around Rutland. Two males born in Rutland subsequently set up home in Wales, and attracted birds from Scotland, while other Rutland ospreys have migrated to Kielder Forest in Northumberland and to the Lake District. Dennis has also returned ospreys to Poole Harbour and worked on a number of reintroductions in mainland Europe.

FLEDGLING CONSERVATIONIST Dennis grew up on the south coast between Portsmouth and Southampton and from an early age birded his way round the New Forest, Titchfield Haven and Farlington Marshes. He went to the grammar school in Fareham but 35

“I know if an animal is healthy; I look at the eyes, at the pelage and whether it’s groomed” 36

felt stymied by an old-fashioned approach that treated biology as a second-class science. After doing work experience at the Atomic Energy Research Establishment at Harwell, he knew he didn’t like the idea “of being in a room all day”. Luckily, he was invited to be a temporary assistant warden at Lundy bird observatory in the Bristol Channel, and he was saved from a life of wearing a white coat in a sterile lab. After six months on the island of Lundy, he was asked to go and work on Fair Isle, halfway between Orkney and Shetland, before going to help with the osprey project at Loch Garten. In the mid-1960s, he took up the post of warden on Fair Isle, moving there with his first wife. The first of Dennis’s four children was born while they were living on the island. Dennis believes his rural childhood has given him insights into birds and their wellbeing that science alone cannot match. He can look at a young chick and tell whether it’s healthy, unlike – he says – some of the people he’s worked with, from government agencies or conservation NGOs. “It’s the same with red squirrel translocations,” Dennis says. “Vets are supposed to take blood to make sure the animals are healthy. One time, a vet said to me, ‘I don’t know why I’m doing all this because you know whether a squirrel is fit or not.’ And I do, www.countryfile.com

OSPREYS

WHERE TO SEE OSPREYS Loch Garten, Cairngorms The Loch Garten Nature Centre (pictured top right) is open daily from 10am–5.30pm from April to October and has views on to the osprey nest. visitscotland.com/info/ see-do/rspb-scotland-loch-gartennature-centre-p253771

Foulshaw Moss Nature Reserve, Lake District This reserve near Kendal has a viewing platform from which you can watch a breeding pair of ospreys. cumbriawildlifetrust.org.uk/naturereserves/foulshaw-moss

Loch of the Lowes, Perth & Kinross Due to Covid restrictions, you’ll need to book your visit to the observation hide in advance. scottishwildlifetrust.org.uk/reserve/ loch-of-the-lowes/

Llyn Brenig Reservoir, North Wales Watch ospreys on the nest from the reserve’s specially made hide – booking required. llyn-brenig.co.uk/ospreys

Rutland Water, East Midlands Watch them on the nest at Lyndon Nature Reserve (pictured centre right) or take an osprey cruise to see them fishing. lrwt.org.uk/lyndon-nature-reserve Bassenthwaite, Lake District There’s an official osprey viewpoint at Dodd Wood (right), on the east side of the lake. forestryengland.uk/doddwood/osprey-viewpoints-dodd-wood

Findhorn Bay, north-east Scotland For a wilder experience, try the open expanse of Findhorn Bay, where you may see up to 10 ospreys gather at one time. birdsinmorayandnairn.org/sites/ findhorn-bay/ Poole Harbour, Dorset For real enthusiasts only, as sightings are not guaranteed. Ham Common viewpoint on the north side of the harbour is a good place to start. birdsofpooleharbour.co.uk/osprey/

because I look at the eyes, I look at the pelage and whether it’s nicely groomed. It’s a lifetime of looking after animals.” For this reason, Dennis is delighted his 12-year-old daughter (with his second wife Moira) is an animal lover, caring for a guinea pig, two hamsters and frogspawn in the spring. “I was quite shocked when someone said to me, ‘Oh Roy, you’re not allowed to collect frogspawn now.’ I mean, where the hell are we going?”

Photos: Alamy, Getty, FLPA

OF EAGLES AND LYNX With the Roy Dennis Wildlife Foundation responsible for bringing white-tailed eagles down to the Isle of Wight and looking into a possible translocation of Rutland ospreys to Suffolk, things are looking good for these and many other birds of prey, such as red kites – another species he helped to bring back from near-extinction in the UK. But ospreys are his first love. “They’re so distinctive in the sky, everyone knows them,” he says. “In Findhorn Bay, you often see two or three of them in the sky, and to be able to dive 150 feet or so into the water and grab a flatfish on the mud…” He tails off – you know what he means. Dennis would love to see lynx brought back to our shores, but politics in Scotland is currently www.countryfile.com

5 An osprey can reach speeds of 77mph in a steep dive to capture prey 6 Ranger Jim Gillies (left) and Roy ring young ospreys in Badenoch before translocation to Rutland Water in 1996 7 Roy has been lobbying for the reintroduction of lynx to Scotland for over 20 years; he holds a lynx kitten on a research trip to Oslo, Norway, in 2001

set against the idea. “They could be back tomorrow, and no one would know they were here,” he remarks. Even beavers – regarded by most conservationists as essential to restoring ecosystems in Britain – are still viewed with suspicion by many landowners. “If 90% of people are for them but a few farmers are against, why should a small minority be more important, especially since it’s the people in the cities who are paying the subsidies?” There’s an obvious answer to this mix of nimbyism, bureaucracy and inertia that’s obstructing efforts to restore these long-lost species, of course: clone a few dozen Roy Dennises and reintroduce them to the key conservation battlegrounds. That would put the proverbial (wild)cat among the pigeons. CF

Restoring the Wild: Sixty Years of Rewilding Our Skies, Woods and Waterways by Roy Dennis is published by William Collins, £18.99 (HB). James Fair is a wildlife journalist, writer and photographer who specialises in investigating controversial issues, such as badger culling, the illegal wildlife trade and raptor persecution. jamesfairwildlife.co.uk 37

Green and pleasant land Britain’s landscapes play a vital role in creating a more sustainable national energy system, and thanks to smart meters, you can do your bit too

n this country, we’re lucky to have some of the world’s most beautiful rural and coastal landscapes to explore on our doorsteps. And Britain’s natural ecosystem would SFZMSYWP] FIRI X JVSQ XLI PS[IV IQMWWMSRW XLEX E QSVI modern, sustainable energy network would bring. But often it’s our own environment that helps us generate renewable energy. Thanks to wind farms and solar energy harvesting, the UK’s energy network is less reliant on fossil fuels than ever. So what can we do individually to help push the country’s infrastructure further into the future? Getting a smart meter MRWXEPPIH F] ]SYV IRIVK] WYTTPMIV MW E VWX WXIT XS HSMRK NYWX that. That’s because smart meters will help create a smart energy system. A system that could help us better plan the energy we need nationally, and that can pinpoint where faults are occurring more quickly. A system that will, in conjunction with smart meters, help consumers take action to lessen their carbon footprint.

Where there’s wind, there’s a way Britain has a proud history of using its natural geography to produce energy, particularly wind. In July 1887, Professor James Blyth of Anderson’s College, Glasgow (now the University of Strathclyde) FYMPX XLI VWX [MRH XYVFMRI EX LMW LSPMHE] cottage from which he was able to generate electricity. A slight snag was that the locals refused the power as they believed electricity to be the work of the devil. Thankfully, attitudes had somewhat enlightened almost a century later in July [LIR XLI VWX TVSXSX]TI [MRH XYVFMRI to be plugged into our National Grid was tested in the Orkney Isles at Costa

Head. At the time there was concern over whether the wind would be strong enough, but in fact, Costa Head had the opposite problem. The turbine needed winds of 35mph to generate its target energy, but instead experienced winds of up to 125mph on its trial run! Fast forward to the present day, and [EW XLI VWX ]IEV MR [LMGL VIRI[EFPI sources provided more energy for the National Grid than fossil fuels, and a sizeable proportion of that came from wind at 24%. And there’s set to be plenty more where that came from, with the world’s largest windfarm due to open in the North Sea in 2023.

Power to the future Sustainable, smart technology goes hand-in-hand with the continuing roll out of smart meters to households in Great Britain. When you get a smart meter installed by your energy supplier, its handy in-home display will show you how much energy you’re using around the home in near-real time. That means when you start to make changes like switching to energysaving lightbulbs or washing at 30º, you should start to see your bills shrink. This helps reduce wasted energy, and the more people who get a smart meter MRWXEPPIH XLI QSVI IJ GMIRX SYV REXMSREP system will become, managing supply and

Why get a smart meter?

Some 50% of smart meter owners think their gas and electricity use has reduced since they had a smart meter installed

demand in different areas. What’s more, in the future, smart meters might soon even be able to interact with the smart, green technology in our homes and provide electricity when it’s at its cheapest and cleanest, ready to store up for use.

The average UK household spends an estimated £35 per year leaving electronic devices on standby

“Smart meters help reduce wasted energy” Ultimately, getting a smart meter is just one of many everyday environmentally friendly switches required to help us reach our collective goal. While these devices may be a simple bit of kit, in the future they could transform the way we use energy.

If every UK household took action on energy efficiency now, we could save up to 54 million tonnes of carbon dioxide

Join the energy revolution and contact your energy supplier to request a smart meter. For more information, visit smartenergygb.org

Song of I the wild Renowned singer-songwriter David Gray has a passion for birds, especially the curlew. He talks to Annabel Ross about his connections to this threatened species and how wild places have inspired his new album

t has a bittersweet quality, it keeps you hovering, not knowing whether you are uplifted or actually feeling incredibly moved by the tragedy that seems to be somehow wrapped up in this little bit of singing. It’s the way it grows, the intensity of it; it seems to split in midair as a sound and then goes in two directions at once.” This is David Gray’s poetic description of the song of the curlew. The singer-songwriter has been pondering the bird as he starts work on a piece of music commissioned by the RSPB about Europe’s largest wader, a species he has always loved. “The first time was with my Dad. We used to go on holidays to Scotland and I remember seeing one in an estuary. I was just a small child. ‘That’s a curlew’, someone said, and then you’ve got it: the bill, the great size of this wading bird, and then you hear it and realise it’s a bird with an added dimension. Oystercatchers and redshanks create a lot of noise but there’s something about the curlew, something else goes on. That very first encounter left a lasting impression.” You might be surprised to learn that David Gray has an excellent knowledge, and love, of birds. But should we be surprised? Just because he has a voice that can sell over seven million copies of his White Ladder album worldwide, it doesn’t mean that’s all he is interested in. Released in 1998, White Ladder was his fourth album. I remember it so well, especially on car journeys with friends, playing it loud, escaping the city to somewhere with wide open spaces. Gray got us in the mood with ‘Babylon’, ‘Please Forgive Me’, ‘This Year’s Love’, ‘Say Hello, Wave Goodbye’. I know that many people say the curlew is evocative but right now I am overwhelmed with nostalgia for the late 1990s, listening to White Ladder.

Musician David Gray releases his twelfth album, Skellig, this May

Several albums later, including two further number ones, David has just released Skellig. The album cover, painted by David himself, features a salmon leaping in front of the two uninhabited rocky Skellig Islands, off the coast of County Kerry, south-west Ireland. “For me, it’s a personal symbol. When I did the painting of the islands, I wanted the fish to be like a ghost fish, leaping out of the water. That was how I saw it in my mind’s eye. It’s the first bit of art I’ve done for quite a long time.” www.countryfile.com

Photos: Gavin Batty, RSPB Images

LEAPING INSPIRATION

The largest wading bird in Europe, the curlew has an extended down-curved bill, long legs and a distinctive haunting call. The appeal of the curlew’s song is referenced in the 1,000-year-old Anglo-Saxon poem, The Seafarer: “I take my gladness in the... sound of the Curlew instead of the laughter of men”

June

Great days out

COVID-19 Please abide by Government advice on travel. The information on these pages is meant to assist you once restrictions have been lifted.

www.countryfile.com/walks

FAMILY FRIENDLY WALKS

OS map images: © Crown copyright Ordnance Survey Photo: Getty

Short, easy-going and packed with amenities and adventure, our top 20 family-friendly trails are perfect for children and adults alike. Summer fun, here we come!

Letting the smallest member of the family lead the way will keep children interested. It’s also a good idea to have a goal on your walk – a hilltop with epic views, a magical tree or an ice-cream stop

www.countryfile.com/walks

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

We need to talk about the elephant in the garden! To learn more please visit finchesfriend.com/elephant

GREAT DAYS OUT

Photos: Alamy

ABOVE You can launch your own boat, hire a sailing dinghy or give the family a chance to try a taster session on a kayak, canoe, windsurfer or paddleboard and enjoy a day out on the water BELOW The off-road eight-mile reservoir circuit is perfect for cycling or walking on a sunny day

www.countryfile.com/walks

Get planting! Take part in Countryfile’s Plant Britain campaign and log the seeds you’ve planted on the interactive map. plantbritain.co.uk

“If we harness this vitality in our gardens, the result is a relaxed and natural effect”

www.countryfile.com

Photos: Alamy, Getty, David Taylor

SEEDS

FIVE SELF SEEDERS 1 Mexican daisies Erigeron karvinskianus Delightful and long-lasting white and pink daisies that seed into paving cracks or cascade down steps, attracting the smaller species of hoverflies. 48

2 California poppies Eschcholzia californica These day-glo orange poppies seed happily into gravel; the pollen sacs of visiting honeybees and bumblebees are the same amazing colour.

3 Lamb’s ears Stachys byzantina Soft furry leaves and grey spires with pink flowers, lamb’s ears, or bear’s ears, are top bumblebee plants, especially for wool carder bees.

4 Foxglove Digitalis purpurea alba The freckles in foxglove flowers are a nectar guide for bumblebees. Several species of moths and butterflies lay their eggs on foxglove leaves.

5 Sea holly Eryngium sp Happy in borders or in gravel, sea hollies are hardy, drought-tolerant biennials. They attract a range of insects, especially wasps and butterflies. www.countryfile.com

SEEDS

Photos: David Taylor

1 Tapping out yellow rattle seeds 2 Various seeds, including poppy, coriander, asphodel and allium 3 Susie’s elegant yet wild garden in Allendale With a minimum of paths, my garden is underpinned by a formality that allows this freedom, and the borders are never staked or watered. Delicate umbels of pignut rise up through carpets of thyme, red campion is a blaze of pink among the peonies. Melancholy thistle weaves between iris and geranium and giant bellflower stands serene and pale in the woodland border. I’ve learnt which plants can be overabundant, so these I will deadhead or collect from to donate to seed swaps. Plants will choose their own niche, a place that is just right for them, and this often leads to exciting juxtapositions. Some I will curate or thin where there’s too many, but it’s the exuberance of self-seeders that I delight in. It’s a cheaper way of gardening, too. My original sowings of California poppies – 50p for a packet of seed – still bloom silky-petalled and exotic in gravel in front of the house. Candytuft flowers, eight years after first sowing, show in shades of purple and mauve around the vegetable garden. Self-seeders add joyful spontaneity to both cottage-garden style and to prairie planting, but can also be used in formal settings. Lamb’s ears create a calming silver setting for a galvanised trough on my terrace; I’ve allowed them to put themselves there so I will take out seedlings of other plants. Wanting to soften the area around our house, I brushed seed of Mexican daisies into the gaps between paving slabs. Now it flowers in a froth of white www.countryfile.com

and shades of pink and, at the end of the season, I run over it with a lawnmower as a quick way of cutting back. In my country garden, I use selfseeders and especially wildflowers to relate to the surrounding landscape. In a small garden too, a bit of that wildness adds a relaxed feeling, with Mexican daisies tumbling down steps, tulips standing bold and colourful in a sea of blue forget-me-nots, an annual

meadow of cornflowers and poppies delighting passers-by in a tiny front garden. It’s the unpredictable nature of self-seeding plants that makes them so endearing. CF

Susie White is a gardener, writer, photographer and lecturer who lives in Northumberland. She writes for The Guardian’s Country Diary and has authored eight gardening books.

COLLECTING GARDEN SEED As well as letting some plants have free rein, I gather seed for sowing and later planting out. This gives more control with the design of borders. A groundsheet placed in a wheelbarrow is a good way of collecting the mass of tiny foxglove or poppy seeds. A lined cardboard box

is useful for upending seedheads of larger seeds, such as aquilegia and allium. Labelled with name and date, I store these in envelopes or paper bags in a drawer, ready for the following spring. Some varieties, such as primulas, are best sown immediately.

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COUNTRYFILE ISSUES

JOHN CRAVEN INVEST IN RURAL SKILLS TO SECURE THE NATION’S FUTURE eople working the land are facing some of their greatest challenges: adopting new farming systems and trade deals; planting vast areas of trees; attempting zero carbon emissions; tackling climate change; improving biodiversity. Yet will there be enough skilled hands and brains to cope? Industry leaders want more emphasis placed on focussed teaching and training to fill predicted gaps. Incentives are needed to draw school-leavers away from other career choices. But it will be too late for one respected agricultural college, at Newton Rigg in Cumbria, which closes its doors next month because it can’t pay its way. Officials say it would have required more than double the number of students to be viable. Forty years ago there were 50 such colleges. Now there are 11, although 22 further education establishments do have landbased campuses. Four top universities have stopped degrees in forestry. Nationwide, around 100 students graduated in the subject last year – 10 years ago, the figure was three-and-ahalf times as many. “There isn’t joined-up thinking between DEFRA and the Department for Education,” says Shireen Chambers, executive director of the Institute of Forestry. “You just can’t pluck extra people out of the air. In England and Wales, there are 13,000 working in the forestry sector and we need to double that in the next four years. In

Photo: Alamy

www.countryfile.com

Britain must invest in rural training for young people to ensure that the nation has the expertise to meet its land challenges Scotland, forestry is working closely with Government – they see rural skills as very much part of the green recovery.”

A RICHER FUTURE Now, MPs on the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs select committee have written to the Department for Education, urging it to implement and fund a national strategy for landbased skills and education. Chair Neil Parish (Conservative MP, Tiverton and Honiton) says: “In recent years, we have seen education providers forced to sell off the family silver to stay afloat, hurting their students and local communities. England’s future is its young people and their enthusiasm and commitment to protecting the environment. The Government needs to provide the leadership and investment to harness that.” Tom Bradshaw, vice president of the NFU, told the committee

that farming had been pigeonholed as “those who are not academically gifted go into agriculture”, and that had to change. Later he told me: “We have to make sure we attract the bright talent because there are some amazingly exciting opportunities ahead.” New ‘T’ level exams (the technical version of A levels) are seen as part of the solution (but only if teenagers don’t have to travel long distances to study), as are more employer-led apprenticeships. “Getting enough people with the right training is going to be an uphill struggle,” says Bradshaw. Planting 30,000 hectares of trees a year is Boris Johnson’s aim but England achieved just 2,000 hectares last year. Chambers thinks thousands more contractors will be needed in England to meet the target. “My real worry is that you’ll just get cowboys doing it,” she says, “with squads of people planting the wrong trees in the wrong place and they’ll die anyway.” The £91 billion land-based economy must win over new blood by stressing the talents it now requires, from traditional skills to the appliance of plant science to operating robots. “Periods of change like this are always a great opportunity for people who are in the right place,” says Bradshaw. “What can be more energising than creating and growing the food that is supporting a nation?”

Watch John on Countryfile, Sunday evenings on BBC One. 51

An angler in the River Wye at Builth Wells in Powys. Fishing allows time to observe the natural world and many anglers work hard to keep river waters and their wildlife healthy

D 52

Photo: Alamy

RIVER RESCUE

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Pollution on the Afon Llynfi, Powys; a dipper perches on a pile of debris; a volunteer from the River Exe Project monitors water quality; pollution killed thousands of fish on the Llynfi

you can be sure, Dave Collins will pick himself up, shake himself down and he, with other anglers, will help put that river right again.

NATURAL CONNECTION I live in the Peak District and much of my time is spent around the River Dove, which flows through the beautiful Dove valley. This is hallowed ground for anglers, because it is mentioned in Izaak Walton’s Compleat Angler, which was first published in 1653. Later editions that came out in 1670 contained an extensive section just about the Dove, written by Walton’s friend and fellow angler Charles Cotton. This book is not just about angling. It contains careful observations of life in the river and is considered to be the first great work of natural history. It was on every educated young gentleman’s bookshelf for the next 200 years or more, which explains why Dovedale became England’s first www.countryfile.com

tourist ‘hotspot’ and why fly fishing became such a popular and socially aspirational pursuit. The tradition of the ‘anglernaturalist’ remains to this day. The Riverfly Partnership – which has a team of volunteers all over the

“Just as rivers evolve, so too do the interests of the people enjoying them” UK monitoring the insect life in our rivers and detecting early signs of pollution – was started by anglers. So, too, was specialist river-restoration charity, the Wild Trout Trust. Both have now grown beyond their angling roots but remain connected to their

original calling. I am proud to be involved with both.

ACTIVE INTEREST Just as rivers evolve, so too do the interests of the people who enjoy them. Rivers have always been a haven for naturalists; who can be anything other than delighted to watch a dipper bobbing on a stone in a fast-flowing stream, before hopping off into the riffle to be carried along as it searches for a tasty caddis fly to eat? Botanists, too, can be similarly absorbed as they wander the banks of a summer river, charmed by the nodding heads of the fritillary or lost in the rapturous scent of creamy dollops of meadowsweet. But it is the active pursuits that have seen the greatest growth on our rivers in recent years, particularly in light of our experiences during the coronavirus lockdowns. For many people, their hectic lives shuddered to a halt and, for the first time, they had 53

BEAVERS: ALLIES IN THE FIGHT?

space to think. We reassessed our priorities and, for many of us, that meant a deepening relationship with the natural world and the peace and wellbeing that can come with time spent in nature.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Growing numbers of wild swimmers are leading the fight for clean waters; a Surfers Against Sewage volunteer clears plastic pollution from the sea; a sign warns of polluted river water

The growth of ‘wild’ swimming has been equally impressive. The Outdoor Swimming Society (OSS) began life in 2006 with 300 “mavericks and renegades” – a hardy bunch who enjoy swimming in rivers, lakes, lidos and seas, whatever the British weather may

RISING TIDE Something about flowing water brings a sense of tranquility and a new generation has sought solace in our rivers. Paddlesports have seen a huge growth over the past 12 months. British Canoeing, the sport’s national governing body, has seen membership rise from 38,500 to 68,000. This growth took off after the end of the first lockdown. Many were taking up the sport for the first time. Almost half are families, and 34% of members are female. British Canoeing claims over two million people take part in paddlesports each year. This is a new and vibrant demographic on the river. 54

“Flowing water brings a sense of tranquility and a new generation has sought solace” bring. The pursuit has grown quickly over the years but, during lockdowns, that growth became spectacular. The OSS’s membership increased by 36% to 136,000 and their Facebook social media group grew in size by 73%.

Over the past year, an astonishing 7.5 million people went swimming outdoors. This, alongside the paddlers, makes up a huge new group of users joining anglers on the river. It would be wrong to pretend that it is all ‘plain sailing’ between these different groups. Many stretches of our rivers are privately owned and the access for wild swimmers and paddlers can be hotly contested. This, all too often, places anglers on the ‘other side’.

RIVER RESCUERS An access campaign coordinated by British Canoeing to open up English and Welsh rivers has echoes of the ‘right to roam’, which finally opened up much of the English and Welsh uplands at the beginning of the century, following 70 years of slowly broken-down opposition. Other, new groups are bringing their campaigns to the rivers. Surfers Against Sewage (SAS) is moving inland and upstream www.countryfile.com

Photo: Alamy, Getty

Once native to our shores, the beaver was hunted to extinction here by the 16th century. The prospect of the charismatic beaver inhabiting our rivers again is greeted with enthusiasm by conservationists and the public alike. Known as ‘ecosystem engineers’, the beaver’s habit of building dams and creating rich wetland habitats beside our rivers is valued at a time of climate crisis. But some fish biologists fear that these dams interfere with salmon and sea trout migration routes. These fish are at risk of local extinction on some rivers. “But salmon and beavers evolved together,” counter the beaver believers. “But that was in natural rivers, before they were modified by the Industrial Revoltution,” others respond. The problem isn’t beavers, it is us, who have so degraded our waters that we have threatened fish populations. We must make our rivers healthy again for beavers and salmon – and the beaver cannot do that for us, it is down to us.

RIVER RESCUE

Paddlesports have boomed in popularity over the past year, as more people appreciate the joy to be found on their local waterways

with its Million Mile Clean campaign to fight plastic pollution, asking us all to pledge to walk, paddle or swim 10 miles during the year clearing plastic waste as we go. It was swimmers, as part of the Ilkley Clean River Campaign, who took on the might of Yorkshire Water and the Environment Agency to have the polluted River Wharfe officially designated as the first river bathing water, legally obliging the water company to clean up its act and create a river fit to swim in.

TIME TO UNITE At a time when our rivers are under the double scourge of agricultural pollution and illegal human sewage discharges from our poorly performing waste-water treatment companies, not to mention the as-yet-unquantified threats from microplastics and pharmaceuticals, it is vital that all who love our rivers stand together www.countryfile.com

and we voice our dissent as one. Anglers are still doing their bit, as Dave Collins and his colleagues demonstrate, patiently beginning again to rebuild the life in their poisoned river. Whether we are anglers, paddlers, wild swimmers, surfers or just people who enjoy being beside the river and delighting in the life around it, we have more that unites us than divides us. We all essentially have the same two, simple requests: clean water and good river habitat, please. With these, the wildlife will thank us and we can all pursue our respective passions in the natural world we love. Rod in hand or not, I am sure Izaak Walton would approve.

Andrew Griffiths is an angler and writer who lives in the Peak District and fishes on his beloved River Dove.

RIVER PROTECTORS • Surfers Against Sewage Clean water campaigners bringing their activities from sea to source. sas.org.uk • Riverfly Partnership A network of organisations and citizen scientists monitoring the insect life in our rivers. riverflies.org • Wild Trout Trust Helping restore the places where wild trout live. A good resource for rivers. wildtrout.org • Rivers Trust Umbrella group for local rivers trusts and their volunteers who help conserve our rivers. theriverstrust.org • British Canoeing The organisation for paddlesport enthusiasts. britishcanoeing.org.uk • Beavers Trust Helping to reintroduce the beaver to our rivers. beavertrust.org • Right to Roam Campaign to extend the Countryside Rights of Way Act into our lowland countryside. righttoroam.org.uk 55

PERFECT PARKLANDS The 20 best country parks, great estates and green spaces for gatherings with friends and family this summer By Dixe Wills t’s been a hard year so far, hasn’t it? Often frustrating, chaotic and, for many people, extremely isolating. So after another interminable lockdown, the opportunity to meet up with those we love is going to feel like a refreshing draught of cool water after a journey through a seemingly endless desert. What’s more, the summer is here with its promise of long days, reviving warmth and ambles in the sun-soaked countryside. The long absences from family and friends may also perhaps bring with them a pressure to make long-anticipated reunions perfect in every way. This expectation may be especially tricky to realise where several generations are meeting up. What may bring joy to exuberant children, for

Photo: Alamy

I 56

instance, may not prove exactly granny and grandad’s cup of tea. The solution is to choose a location that has something for everyone – and where better than one of Britain’s wonderful country parks, gardens or woodlands? To help you find the ideal rendezvous, we’ve hand-picked 20 of these special places. They’re all easily accessible, provide handy facilities, are packed with interest and offer fantastic walks for both the wildly energetic and the more relaxed rambler. All you need to do is find a time and a date. Fill your boots! • Please check with venues before you travel. Opening times may vary, and some venues may require booking in advance. www.countryfile.com

COUNTRY PARKS

2. BEECRAIGS COUNTRY PARK, LINLITHGOW, WEST LOTHIAN Up in the Bathgate Hills, this 370-hectare park is home to red deer, Highland cattle, North Ronaldsay sheep and Hebridean sheep. There are walks and mountain bike routes, or you can have a go at orienteering on one of the park’s nine courses. The kids will love the adventure playground’s wigwams and flying foxes, and there’s a visitor centre, loos and two cafés to choose from. westlothian.gov.uk/beecraigs

Photos: Getty, Alamy, National Trust Images/Chris Lacey

4. ROSLISTON FORESTRY CENTRE, ROSLISTON, DERBYSHIRE

3. QUEEN ELIZABETH FOREST PARK, ABERFOYLE, PERTHSHIRE Covering a vast area to the east of scenic Loch Lomond, this forest park within a national park promises lungfuls of fresh air and extraordinary views of wild mountains. Start at the Lodge Forest Visitor Centre with its loos and café, nearby wildlife hide and waterfall. Then head out on foot or cycle along one of the many signposted trails. You could even explore Loch Katrine by steamship. forestryandland.gov. scot/visit/forest-parks/queen-elizabeth-forest-park

Right at the heart of the National Forest, the centre promises woodland, meadow and pond fun for all comers amid the owls, kestrels and kingfishers that call it home. Take off on walking and cycle routes or choose from the many activities on offer, including archery, falconry, astronomy, crazy golf and laser games. Afterwards, enjoy panoramic views from the licensed Hub Café. roslistonforestrycentre.co.uk

5. KILLERTON HOUSE AND GARDEN, EXETER, DEVON A stunning Georgian house set in 2,600 hectares of historic parkland, with ancient woods, farmland and orchards, plus a flower-filled garden to explore. Build dens, climb an extinct volcano and visit a working watermill. nationaltrust.org.uk/killerton www.countryfile.com

7. CRAGSIDE, ROTHBURY, NORTHUMBERLAND Discover the gadget-filled house and gardens of Victorian inventor and genius landscaper Lord William Armstrong. Follow miles of woodland footpaths past water features to Nelly’s Labyrinth in the rhododendron forest. nationaltrust.org.uk/cragside

8. LANHYDROCK, BODMIN, CORNWALL There’s more to Lanhydrock than the stupendous Victorian country house. The substantial, colourful gardens include a remarkable parterre (formal garden of plant beds laid out in symmetrical patterns), while the huge estate can be explored via footpaths of differing lengths or on mountain bikes along exciting trails of different grades (cycle hire available), taking visitors through ancient woodlands on riverside paths. There’s also a plant shop, two cafés, an ice-cream parlour and a play area. Booking is essential. nationaltrust.org.uk/lanhydrock

6. HAM HILL COUNTRY PARK, STOKE SUB HAMDON, NEAR YEOVIL, SOMERSET A mighty Iron Age hill fort dominates this huge park. Enjoy views of Exmoor, go Geocaching, discover the unique hamstone rock or take on the orienteering course. southsomersetcountryside.com/ham-hill www.countryfile.com

9. NEWSTEAD ABBEY, RAVENSHEAD, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE Once home to Lord Byron, the 12th-century abbey sits in glorious parkland and formal gardens whose lakes, ponds and cascades are fed by the beguiling River Leen. Explore the many themed gardens, from Japanese to sub-tropical, and hunt for clues on the fun indoor and outdoor family trails. newsteadabbey.org.uk

10. LEPE COUNTRY PARK, LEPE, HAMPSHIRE Set on the edge of the New Forest, with a mile of beach to explore and ravishing vistas of the Isle of Wight to feast on, Lepe can lay claim to being one of Britain’s most diverse and beautiful country parks. Ramble its pine-bordered clifftops, plunge into stunning wildflower meadows, or go birding by the mudflats and freshwater ponds. Learn about Lepe Beach’s role in D-Day with a free self-guided audio tour, or take to the nature trail or five-mile circular Lepe Loop walk. There’s a visitor centre, adventure playground, licensed café and refreshment kiosk, too. hants.gov.uk/lepe

11. GNOLL ESTATE COUNTRY PARK, NEATH, NEATH PORT TALBOT What was once an 18th-century landscaped garden belonging to a wealthy industrialist family is now 93 hectares of gorgeous parkland overlooking Neath. Once voted the Best Picnic Spot in Wales, the park is a patchwork of lakes, woodland, open grassland and an arboretum, with hidden grottoes and cascades to discover. Myriad waymarked walks criss-cross the grounds, passing the nine-hole pitch-andputt golf courses. Next to the visitor centre and café you’ll find an adventure playground as well as a children’s playground fitted with fun equipment suitable for youngsters with disabilities. gnollestatecountrypark.co.uk 60

www.countryfile.com

COUNTRY PARKS 12. BODNANT GARDEN, COLWYN BAY, CONWY Perched on a steep hillside, Bodnant has 32 hectares of beautiful wildflower meadows, grand flower-filled terraces, water gardens and majestic woodland to explore, with various kiosks serving refreshments. Book in advance. nationaltrust.org.uk/bodnant-garden

14. QUEEN ELIZABETH COUNTRY PARK, HORNDEAN, HAMPSHIRE A sensational slice of the South Downs National Park, the Queen Elizabeth encompasses no fewer than 809 hectares of downland and woodland. There are chalkland butterflies aplenty, skylarks singing above, a range of trails for cyclists and ramblers, including an interactive story walk specially for children, along with an adventure play park, assault course and brand-new restaurant. hants.gov. uk/thingstodo/countryparks/

15. PEMBREY COUNTRY PARK, PEMBREY, CARMARTHENSHIRE For a bit of an adventure, make for this 200-hectare park to try out the dry ski-slope, toboggan ride, crazy golf, pitch-and-putt, horseriding, adventure play area and train rides. There’s also a visitor centre, cafés and calming nature trails, along with an eight-milelong Blue Flag sandy beach. pembreycountrypark.wales

Photos: Getty, Alamy

13. BEESTON CASTLE AND WOODLAND PARK, BEESTON, CHESHIRE Perched on the summit of a dramatic crag, Beeston Castle is the stuff of fairy tales. Enjoy views of the Welsh mountains as you explore the 13th-century fortress, a reproduction Bronze Age roundhouse and 16-hectare woodland. Look out for bats, buzzards and peregrine falcons then enjoy refreshments in the café. english-heritage.org.uk www.countryfile.com

19. CAPSTONE FARM COUNTRY PARK, GILLINGHAM, KENT A huge swathe of former North Downs farmland is now a wonderful patchwork of ancient woodlands, orchards, meadows and a fishing lake, with a café and children’s play areas, too. medway.gov.uk

16. ABBEY GARDENS, BURY ST EDMONDS, SUFFOLK These gardens are a pocket of floral splendour around the riverside ruins of an 11th-century Benedictine monastery. Acres of majestic gardens are teamed with a sensory garden, children’s playground, treehouse and willow maze. westsuffolk.gov.uk/leisure/parks/abbey-gardens.cfm

17. MUGDOCK COUNTRY PARK, MUGDOCK, STIRLING

Photo: Alamy, Robin Webster/www.geograph.org.uk,

With 240 hectares encompassing a wide range of habitats, you’ll share Mugdock with roe deer, pine martens, sparrowhawks and a wealth of other wildlife. Roam the woods, heaths, moorland and wetland on the extensive network of footpaths (mostly wheelchair- and mobility scooter-friendly). Take a journey through time, too. The park boasts a Stone Age site, Bronze Age farm, medieval castle, NeoGothic mansion, Victorian gardens and a gun site from the Second World War. There’s also a visitor centre, restaurant, tearoom and two children’s play areas. And all just 10 miles from the centre of Glasgow. mugdock-country-park.org.uk

18. CROMBIE COUNTRY PARK, NEAR DUNDEE, ANGUS Have a go at Geocaching or walk one of the trails crossing this 80-hectare woodland surrounding Crombie Loch. Red squirrels and woodpeckers galore! angusalive.scot/countrysideadventure/visit-us/crombiecountry-park 62

20. BEACON FELL COUNTRY PARK, NEAR GARSTANG, LANCASHIRE Walk the sculpture trail, hit the visitor centre and café, then climb up through pretty woodland and moorland to breathtaking summit views of the Irish Sea. lancashire.gov.uk/leisure-and-culture/country-parksand-nature-reserves/beacon-fell-country-park

Dixe Wills is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Guardian on green travel. His books include Tiny Britain: A Collection of the Nation’s Overlooked Little Treaures and Tiny Campsites (both AA Publishing). www.countryfile.com

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Great bakes At long last, many of us will be reuniting with loved ones for sunlit gatherings in gardens, parks, leafy woodlands and green dales. Why not make your get-together feel really special by bringing along one or both of these delicious bakes? Words: Claire Thomson Photos: Jason Ingram

ROASTED COURGETTE AND SPRING ONION TART with goat’s cheese, English mustard and thyme FOR THE PASTRY 225g plain flour 100g cold butter, diced small Pinch of salt 1 egg white, whisked with a splash of cold water FOR THE TART FILLING 3 small, firm courgettes, yellow and green is nice 6 spring onions, trimmed 2 tbsp olive oil 150g soft skin-on goat’s cheese A few sprigs of thyme 200ml double cream 50ml full-fat milk 4 whole eggs 1 egg yolk 1 tsp English mustard Salt and pepper, to taste

Roast a mix of firm, small yellow and green courgettes along with some spring onions and do try to source a good, local soft goat’s cheese to use in this attractive summery tart. METHOD 1. First, make the pastry. Put the flour, butter and pinch of salt into the bowl of a food processor and pulse to form small breadcrumbs. Alternatively, use your fingertips to mix the butter with the flour to form small breadcrumbs. With the motor running, add a couple of tablespoons of ice-cold water, processing until the pastry begins to just come together. Don’t be tempted to add more water. Remove from the bowl and briefly knead until smooth. Wrap and store in the fridge for at least 30 minutes before rolling. 2. Preheat the oven to 200°C and line a baking tray with greaseproof paper. Thinly slice the courgettes lengthways to make long ribbons – about 3mm thick is ideal. The very inner core of the courgettes can be discarded as they can be more watery when cooked. Trim the spring onions and cut in half lengthways. Season both with salt and pepper and a slug of olive oil and arrange in an even layer on the baking tray. Roast for 10–12 minutes until well wizened, even browning a little in places. Remove from the oven and cool. 3. Roll the pastry out, about 3mm thick is good, and use it to line a 23cm fluted loose-bottomed tart tin. Ensure the tin has an overlap of pastry. Any excess

pastry should be wrapped and stored in the fridge and can be used to patch any cracks that might appear once you have blind-baked the case. 4. Cover the pastry base with greaseproof paper and line with baking beans. 5. Bake the tart case for 15 minutes. Take it out of the oven and remove the greaseproof paper and baking beans. Brush all over with the whisked egg white and continue cooking for a further 10 minutes, or until the pastry is crisp and pale golden. Remove from the oven. 6. Use a small sharp knife to neatly trim the pastry flush to the sides of the tart tin. 7. Arrange the roasted courgettes and spring onions in the base of the tart case. Break up the goat’s cheese into small chunks (I like to include the skin but remove it if you prefer) and dot the cheese around the vegetables, then sprinkle over the thyme leaves. 8. In a large jug, whisk together the cream, milk, eggs, egg yolk and mustard and season well with salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. 9. Place the tart on a tray directly in the oven and carefully pour the cream mix into the tart case. This will help to avoid any spills that can occur when moving the tart to the oven. 10. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C and bake the tart in the oven for around 30–35 minutes, until the filling is just set and the sides are golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool for 10 minutes before serving. You can also serve the tart cold. www.countryfile.com

ELDERFLOWER CUSTARD CREAMS BISCUITS 175g room-temperature unsalted butter 45g icing sugar 175g plain flour 40g custard powder 25g cornflour FILLING 80g icing sugar, plus extra to dust 40g room-temperature unsalted butter 1 tbsp elderflower cordial

These ludicrously good-looking biscuits are super soft and crumbly and are barely held together by the sweetened elderflower butter. One mouthful, at best two. METHOD 1. Using an electric mixer, beat the butter and icing sugar until pale and creamy; this will take at least three minutes on high speed. 2. Sift together the flour, custard powder and cornflour and combine in the bowl with the butter and icing sugar. Mix well with a wooden spoon, or use your hands, kneading slightly to form a smooth, soft dough. Wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before rolling. 3. Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a baking tray with greaseproof paper. 4. Break off even-sized pieces of dough, about the size of a small cherry tomato, and roll into a ball. Place on the baking sheet, leaving enough space between each piece. Use a fork to slightly flatten each ball. Repeat

until you have used all the dough. You should get about 22 pieces. 5. Bake in the hot oven for around 16–18 minutes until crisp and the bases are a pale golden colour. 6. Remove from the oven and cool completely on a wire rack. The biscuits will be very fragile. 7. Make the elderflower cream. Using an electric mixer, beat together the icing sugar and the butter until pale and creamy. Add the elderflower cordial and beat to combine. 8. Pair up the biscuits in evenly-sized duos and sandwich together with a small amount of the sweetened elderflower butter. Dust with additional icing sugar to serve. CF

Claire Thomson is a chef and author who lives in Bristol with her husband and three children. Her books include The Five O’Clock Apron, Home Cookery Year and New Kitchen Basics. www.countryfile.com

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In full Victorian tweed, Chris Bonington scales the difficult Mummery Crack on the Alpine peak Aiguille du Grépon in 1992 – an attempt to recreate Albert Mummery’s famous climb and the only surviving photo of him climbing (opposite)

CLIMBING

Rock stars As climbers compete in the Olympics for the first time this year, Richard Else takes us back to the roots of an exhilarating sport, when brave pioneers first defied gravity to ascend rock faces on the fells and peaks of Britain

Photos: Richard Else, The Adventure Show, Alamy, Maurice Paillon/ Wikimedia Commons

loody hell! It’s not easy... You get your boot jammed in this crack, then you can’t get the damn thing out.” Thirty years ago, I was on the granite rock high above Chamonix in the French Alps, mesmerised by Chris Bonington’s Herculean efforts as his nailed boots scrabbled for grip. Chris’s struggle was a result of his bid to emulate Albert Mummery’s first ascent of the Aiguille du Grépon in the French Alps in 1881 – while wearing the tweeds, woollen stockings and velour hat that were the uniform of gentleman climbers of the period. Mummery was a merchant’s son from Kent, a shadowy figure, known today by his one book, My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus. For Mummery, like Bonington, the hardest climb was always the best and he was, Sir Chris believes, “the man who, more than anyone, could be described as the father of modern climbing. No one else of that period had the technical ability on rock or vision that he enjoyed.” Mummery was someone who sought out difficult ascents, not simply the easiest way to the summit. Yet, accepting the convention of the time, he initially climbed the Grépon with two outstanding Swiss guides. Just five years later, Walter Parry Haskett Smith, Eton- and Oxford-

www.countryfile.com

educated, made the first ascent of Napes Needle – a spectacular pinnacle on Great Gable in the Lake District. It was a groundbreaking solo effort. Afterwards, having completed a tricky reverse from the summit, he wryly commented, “it was an undoubted satisfaction to stand once more on solid ground”. Smith’s 1886 achievement is often seen as the birth

1 Albert Mummery started climbing at the age of 16 and was the first to ascend many Alpine peaks; he died in 1895 attempting an ascent of N nga Parbat in the Himalayas 2 Mummery ascends what is now called the Mummery Crack on the Aiguille du Grépon

of modern rock climbing in Britain, yet it builds on the adventures of a succession of daring individuals who saw the mountains not as somewhere to be avoided, but as immensely fertile ground to explore. So it’s difficult to pin down when climbing really began. There’s a case to be made for Donald McDonald, a crofter from Lewis, who climbed the sea stack off Handa

Shauna, 28, is a hugely impressive bundle of energy and Britain’s sole climbing representative at the Tokyo Olympics. She’s summed up by her gritty philosophy: “Do something about it, or get over it”. Shauna started climbing aged four, yet doesn’t come from a sporting background; her six siblings don’t do anything similar and she is “definitely the black sheep of the family”. Shauna was originally inspired by the great French athlete Catherine Destivelle and has twice won the women’s Bouldering World Cup season – the first UK woman to achieve this feat. Shauna is also the first British woman to climb the V14 grade (V17 being the hardest), and she received an MBE at the age of 23, in recognition of her ambassadorial role in the sport. She’s coached by Leah Crane, herself an excellent climber. Leah describes Shauna as “a perfect mix of motivation and stubbornness”.

Walker made the first female ascent of the Matterhorn in 1871, having previously achieved the same feat on the Eiger in the Swiss Alps seven years earlier. As an inspiration to anyone contemplating the sport, Walker had only started climbing after a doctor advised being outdoors to help her rheumatism. In total, she undertook almost 100 expeditions and her preferred mountain food was reported to be sponge cake and Champagne. Gwen Moffat’s trailblazing career on steep rock started in the Second World War. Unconventional in her life and climbing, she often ascended barefoot, saying: “You adhere better to the rock.” Gwen supported herself with a variety of jobs, from artists’ model to farm worker, before becoming Britain’s first certified female climbing guide in 1953. Today, at 96, her love of high places is undiminished. “I derive my security from mountains, it’s the confidence I get from being in them.” The same could be said of Nea Morin. Climbers might know her through an eponymous route in North Wales, but she deserves wider recognition. Born almost two decades before Gwen Moffat, she was not only one of the great female inter-war climbers but an early advocate of all-female climbing teams. Her climbing career encompassed Wales, Cornwall and Scotland. She was an avid traveller and, by the age of 20, was tackling routes in the Alps and, later, the Himalaya. In 1928 she married French mountaineer Jean Morin, who was killed fighting with the Free French forces in 1943. She later climbed successfully with her daughter Louise.

“Lucy Walker’s preferred mountain food was sponge cake and Champagne”

3 4

3 In 1963, celebrated climber Joe Brown scales the crags at Windgather, near Whaley Bridge in the Peak District 4 Mountaineer Lucy Walker with her parents, siblings and a Swiss mountain guide, 1864 5 Gwen Moffat, barefoot, scales a wall of granite in Cornwall www.countryfile.com

Photos: Getty, Johnnie Lee Collection/ Mounta n Her tage Trust, Br dgeman mages, A amy

SHAUNA COXSEY

Island, Sutherland in 1876, for the sheer joy of getting to the top. The romantic poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge has a claim to be England’s first recorded rock climber when, in 1802, he descended from Lakeland’s second highest summit, Scafell, with “limbs all in a tremble” and with friction burns on his chest from sliding against the rock. From those early beginnings, if you’ll excuse the pun, it’s all uphill. The sport became more egalitarian after the Second World War with a huge influx of working-class climbers. Typical of the breed was Joe Brown – one of the finest climbers to ever grace the sport – who started out using a stolen rope, and moved over vertical rock with the fluency of a ballet dancer. From the 1960s onwards, television was instrumental in allowing armchair adventurers to eavesdrop on people such as Brown and their games of vertical chess. Significantly, mountaineering has never been an all-male preserve. Lucy

Triumphant climbers drink in the view from 20-metre-high Napes Needle, on the southern side of Great Gable in the Lake District, 1929. The towering pinnacle of rock was first scaled by pioneering climber Walter Parry Haskett Smith in 1886

CLIMBING

Since its beginnings, climbing has diversified in ways the early pioneers would barely recognise. In addition to the traditional or ‘trad’ climbing, where the protection is placed by the first person on the route, there are sports routes where anchors are pre-placed and drilled into the cliff face, enabling harder lines to be climbed in relative safety. Bouldering – as the name suggests – is undertaken on freestanding rocks where a sequence of moves requires excellent technique. The past 25 years has seen a proliferation of indoor climbing walls everywhere, from big cities to remote communities. They attract all abilities and ages and, for many, are a sport in their own right. There’s a thriving competition circuit including speed climbing – a mesmerising spectacle in which athletes race up a route in seconds, with hands and feet barely touching the holds, where one slip spells disaster.

individuals such as Ben Moon (who started climbing at the age of seven) and Jerry Moffatt relentlessly pushed sport-climbing standards at home and abroad. One landmark Ben Moon route, Hubble at Miller’s Dale in Derbyshire, was once considered the hardest sport climb in the world. And progress hasn’t stopped – even today standards are still being driven relentlessly forward. The prize for the most bizarre first ascent is former taxman Mick Fowler’s 20-metre climb of an ice streak on the west face of St Pancras station in 1987. At the Tokyo Olympics, we’ll see climbing make its competitive debut with speed, bouldering and lead climbing. The charismatic Shauna Coxsey is representing Britain and it would take a brave person to predict the outcome, especially as each athlete will need to compete in all three disciplines. Whoever wins, athletes now little known will suddenly become big names. I recommend watching while firmly anchored to the sofa – it’s guaranteed to induce vertigo, just as Mummery’s epic ascent did 140 years ago. CF

“Speed climbing is a mesmerising spectacle, where one slip spells disaster”

NEW FRONTIERS While climbing jargon can be confusing, with different systems for grading routes, esoteric terminology, a plethora of equipment and techniques, the spectacle of someone defying gravity is always compelling. Climbing has many distinct eras. In the 1980s and 90s, highly motivated

Richard Else is an award-winning adventure and climbing filmmaker and the author of many books on walking and climbing. He lives in the shadows of the Cairngorms.

WHERE TO WATCH CLIMBERS From the tip of Cornwall via the mountains, disused quarries and sea cliffs of Wales, through the Peak and Lake Districts to the furthest corners of Scotland, you’ll see climbers on any stable piece of vertical rock. For Northern Ireland, the Mourne Mountains and the spectacular sea cliff of Fair Head in County Antrim are top spots. But climbers are nothing if not inventive and new areas are still being opened up by activists, sometimes in great secrecy.

CLIMBING BOOKS AND FILMS • For armchair athletes, climbing and its lifestyle has a rich literature and filmmaking heritage. To gain an insight into the history, I’d recommend Space Below My Feet by Gwen Moffat, and WH Murray’s Mountaineering in Scotland – a classic account of inter-war climbing in Scotland written from memory when the author was held as a prisoner of war between 1942 and 1945. • Gwen is the subject of Jen Randall’s film, Project Moffat, while Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi and Jimmy Chin’s Free Solo is a multi-award-winning portrait of Alex Honnold soloing the vertical rock formation El Capitán in America’s Yosemite National Park. • To see Shauna Coxsey in action, check out Red Bull TV: redbull.com. To find out more about rock climbing and the Tokyo Olympics, go to tokyo2020.org/en/sports/sport-climbing

• The British Mountaineering Council website has a wealth of information on the sport, including how to get started (thebmc.co.uk). • North of the border, Mountaineering Scotland is the representative body (mountaineering.scot). • Glenmore Lodge is the national training centre in Scotland (glenmorelodge.org.uk). • England’s training centre is in Wales – Plas y Brenin, the National Outdoor Centre (pyb.co.uk). • The Welsh centre is Plas Menai (plasmenai.co.uk).

• Tollymore is Northern Ireland’s national base (tollymore.com). • There are many courses and types of tuition available. Look for qualifications such as UIAGM/IFMGA Guides (bmg.org.uk), or Mountain Leadership/specific rock-climbing certificates (mountain-training.org). • All indoor walls and climbing gyms have trained and qualified staff. Finally, there are numerous clubs that can offer support, advice and a great introduction to the sport.

www.countryfile.com

Photos: Alamy

NOW CLIMB!

Photo © [Lukassek] / Adobe Stock

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To book call 0800 810 8225 or visit rivercruising.co.uk/emerald Terms and Conditions: All our holidays are subject to availability. Prices are correct at time of going to print (14th May 2021) are per person based on two people sharing and include relevant discounts. Supplements apply for single travellers, upgraded cabins and other departure dates. Offers are valid for new 2022 European river cruise bookings only made between 18th May and 30th June 2021. Savings of up to £1,400 per couple and a free Premium Drinks Package are available on our 2022 European river cruises only and includes Earlybird brochure launch saving where available. Premium Drinks Package applies to on board drinks only and excludes Champagne, wine by the bottle, bottled beers, premium spirits, and cabin mini bar. The extra 10% Super Earlybird Offer is limited in number and is available on cabin categories C, B, A, P, S, R, SA & RA when paying in full 12 months before departure. If full payment is not received 12 months prior, the Super Earlybird Offer will be removed. Offers are applicable on the cruise element only, excludes air fares, port charges, hotel stays and other additional items. In the event of suitable flights not connecting with cruise embarkation/disembarkation timings, overnight accommodation may be required at an additional cost. Our offers are not combinable, and we reserve the right to withdraw our offers at any time. Our itineraries, hotels, dates, and inclusions are subject to change. Flights may not be a direct service and a supplement may be charged. We recommend you seek independent advice regarding visas and vaccinations. E&OE. RiverCruising.co.uk is part of the Travel Village Group, members of the Midcounties Co-operative Travel Consortium. Head Office: 298 Highfield Road, Blackpool, FY4 3JU. ABTA P6710 - ATOL 6053.

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You don’t have to go far to find castles like this... Take a stroll out on deck, breathe in the fresh sea air and relax. Take the ferry to the Isle of Man and pack so much more into your getaway. Bring your walking boots and experience stunning coastal walks and historical sites such as Peel Castle, once home to Viking Warriors. Or wind down and sample the local dishes and delights at quaint local eateries. Discover all this and more on the Isle of Man. Plus travelling by ferry means no luggage fees, no amendment fees and a full refund if your booking is cancelled due to government imposed travel restrictions.

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Book now at STEAM-PACKET.COM *Terms and conditions apply. Subject to availability. A combination of ports should be considered. Valid for travel from 17/06/21 - 07/09/21. Journeys must be completed within five days – day of outward sailing counts as day one, return sailing must commence on or before day five. ^Book with Confidence Commitment is valid for direct ferry bookings with the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company that are affected by COVID-19 Government imposed travel restrictions. Excludes vehicles designed for commercial use. Date of travel must be amended before original travel dates occur. Isle of Man Steam Packet Company will waive the cost of our amendment fee to all applicable ticket types, however if customers change to a higher fare type they will need to pay the fare difference. If a booking needs to be cancelled due to COVID-19 Government imposed travel restrictions, which are in place 14 days prior to the booked travel date, a full refund will be arranged within 30 days of receiving the cancellation. This includes bookings of Special Offers which are generally non-refundable. Offer is non-transferable and is subject to restricted space and availability. The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company reserve the right to amend or withdraw all elements of the offer without prior notice.

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WALKING HOLIDAYS

SLOW HOLIDAYS WITH INNTRAVEL Slow travel is all about getting under the skin of a region – by staying at an authentic, family-run hotel, for example, or buying your lunch from the fresh produce on offer at a village market. It’s a form of tourism which is low-impact and sustainable, and it plays an essential role in helping to maintain the rural economy – something which is especially important in off-the-beaten track destinations. As the Slow Holiday people, Inntravel have championed slow travel for decades, crafting independent, self-guided holidays which allow you to explore at your own pace – meaning you can savour

HEART OF THE YORKSHIRE DALES Boasting striking castle ruins, spectacular waterfalls and verdant slopes criss-crossed with drystone walls, Wensleydale is one of the prettiest valleys in the Dales. Discover its many charms on Inntravel’s six-night walking holiday, which leads from atmospheric Middleham to the traditional market town of Hawes, and includes stays in a series of small guesthouses and welcoming country hotels. As with all Inntravel holidays, this itinerary is self-guided, leaving you free to pause whenever you wish: take in the commanding views over the River Ure; admire Aysgarth’s famous three-step falls; or linger over a delicious pub lunch in a timeless Yorkshire village.

every moment, engage with your surroundings and see things from a new and detailed perspective. For the ultimate slow holiday, choose one of Inntravel’s journeys on foot, where you walk from hotel to hotel following detailed route notes, while your luggage is transferred ahead. Inntravel offer a range of travel methods – including the option to reach your holiday by rail, which is not only the most effective way of reducing your carbon footprint as you travel, but also a very relaxing experience.

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WALKING HOLIDAYS HILL-TOP VILLAGES OF THE LUBERON This rewarding walking holiday takes you to deepest Provence, where ancient villages cluster around crumbling châteaux, and vineyards thrive in the glorious southern sunshine. It’s a region easily reached by rail – regular services connect London to Paris and Paris to Avignon – but the views from your carriage window can’t compare to the sights out on the trails: magnificent Gordes, ‘one of the most beautiful villages in France’; Sénanque Abbey, surrounded by lavender fields; and the kaleidoscopic ochre mines at Roussillon. Accommodation is in three charming small hotels, where you can sample the delicious regional cuisine flavoured with rosemary, thyme and garlic.

MANOR HOUSES OF THE MINHO Portugal’s most northerly region is a land of superlatives – thought by many to be the oldest and most beautiful part of the country, the Minho is certainly the greenest. It can also boast some uniquely characterful accommodation – a selection of 16th and 17th-century manor houses which have opened their doors to visitors in order to preserve their splendour. As well as the chance to stay in these elegant mansions, Inntravel’s week-long walking holiday gives you the opportunity to walk a section of the Portuguese Caminho de Santiago; enjoy the tranquillity and camaraderie of this ancient pilgrims’ path as you follow it beside fields of corn, vines and olive trees.

BOOK & TRAVEL WITH CONFIDENCE With guaranteed flexibility, a generous Covid Refund Promise and 100% financial protection through ATOL and ABTA, you can book and travel with confidence with Inntravel.

Inntravel look forward to hearing from you: inntravel.co.uk | 01653 617777 | holidays@inntravel.co.uk

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CRUISES

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RAIL

ISLE OF MAN HERITAGE RAILWAYS The Isle of Man is a unique haven for rail enthusiasts, with its Victorian steam locomotives, electric and horse tramway. Once you step aboard one of the heritage railways you will find yourself rolling back to the golden ages of the train. With the Isle of Man Steam Railway and the Manx Electric Railway connecting the capital Douglas with the south and north, respectively. Plus with the Snaefell Mountain Railway taking you to the Island’s summit and the Douglas Bay Horse Tramway offering a more leisurely pace along the seafront, it is possible to travel from one end of the Island to the other using vintage transport. Most prefer to spread out the journeys and take in many of the Island’s attractions, including beauty spots, castles, museums and stunning coastal scenery. Douglas has terminals for the MER, the Steam Railway and the horse trams, from which tickets for all heritage transport can be purchased. You can also obtain timetables, tickets and information for all transport methods at the Welcome Centre inside the Sea Terminal in Douglas and from the website www.rail.im.

ISLE OF MAN STEAM RAILWAY The Steam Railway is as popular today as it was back in Victorian times. It opened in 1874 and connects the capital Douglas to the beach village of Port Erin in the south, with plenty of stops along the way. The historic railway station in Douglas is an impressive structure that includes the Tickethall restaurant, famous for its breakfasts served on a fireman’s shovel! Port Erin station has a museum boasting a fine collection including the Queen’s carriage from a royal visit in 1972. A popular spot for passengers to break their journey is Castletown, which boasts Castle Rushen, an historic harbour, walks alongside the Silverburn River and plenty of cafes. In more recent times, a Dining Car, originally built in 1905, was meticulously restored, and is often used for special train journeys, alongside sumptuous saloon carriages that hark back to the glory days of Pullman-style travel.

THE MANX ELECTRIC RAILWAY Constructed from 1893 to 1899, the Manx Electric Railway guarantees spectacular views of the Manx coastline as it travels from Douglas promenade to Ramsey in the north. The route takes passengers via Groudle Glen – with its pebble beach and its own volunteer-run railway that operates on certain dates in the summer – before heading to Laxey, home of the world famous Great Laxey Wheel – the Lady Isabella. Laxey has many more attractions, from its beautiful beach to another volunteer-run railway, the Great Laxey Mines Railway, which runs on certain dates. Ramsey itself has plenty to offer, including another beach, plenty to do in Mooragh Park and views of Queen’s Pier, which is undergoing restoration.

THE SNAEFELL MOUNTAIN RAILWAY The Snaefell Mountain Railway, completed in 1895, is the only electric mountain railway in the British Isles and operates from Laxey station up to the summit of the only Manx mountain, Snaefell, 2,036 feet above sea level. The steep gradient brought out the best of Victorian engineering and a trip gives spectacular views back down the

01624 662525 rail.im

valley, over the Laxey Wheel and leading to the seaside. The Mountain Railway also crosses the world-famous TT race course. When races are on, a carriage stops on one side and passengers cross by footbridge to another tram on the other. At the summit, on a clear day, you can see the Mountains of Mourne in Northern Ireland, as well as the coastlines of Great Britain. The Summit Hotel offers refreshments and meals. Several times a year, special Dark Skies events are arranged, where stargazers can travel to the summit and take full advantage of the clear views available.

THE DOUGLAS BAY HORSE TRAMWAY Constructed in 1876 the horse tramway on Douglas promenade is the oldest surviving such tramway in the British Isles. Such is its importance, that the tramway has been incorporated into a major reconstruction of the promenade. While that work has meant limited services at times, the promenade redevelopment is due for completion later this year, which will see the trams operating a full service once more. Check the website www.rail.im for updates.

Summer breaks with your dog in rural Warwickshire Open countryside, rolling hills, leafy woodlands, spacious parks and canal towpaths - discover the tail-wagging delights of days out walking with your dog in Warwickshire this summer. With pooch-friendly pubs and hotels, spas and grooming, all your pet needs for 0%,/1 /" ( /" %"/" +& ,21 0,*" dog friendly holiday ideas at the Visit Warwickshire website:

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I A L OFF E

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Image credits: top – Grand Union Canal ©Kodachrome25; bottom l-r – Dogs Welcome ©Tom O’The Woods Pub, Canal tow path dog walk ©West Midlands Growth Company, Dog walking Coombe Abbey ©Coombe Abbey

June

Great days out

COVID-19 Please abide by Government advice on travel. The information on these pages is meant to assist you once restrictions have been lifted.

www.countryfile.com/walks

FAMILY FRIENDLY WALKS

OS map images: © Crown copyright Ordnance Survey Photo: Getty

Short, easy-going and packed with amenities and adventure, our top 20 family-friendly trails are perfect for children and adults alike. Summer fun, here we come!

www.countryfile.com/walks

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

CONTENTS

WALK: Carsington Water, Derbyshire

Your handy guide to this month’s Great Days Out

LAZY DAY ON THE LAKE Play wildlife detective, spot waterbirds, wander gentle trails or just mess about in boats at this family-friendly reservoir, says Helen Moat

p97

p94

p92

ummer is on our doorstep. The evenings are long and warm. It’s a precious time of year to spend with children and grandchildren in the outdoors among nature. Walking benefits us all, strengthening lungs, heart and muscles and improving mental wellbeing. After the demands and stresses of the workplace and classroom, nature is wonderfully healing. As we focus on the moment – preoccupied with a bird, flower or insect – we can relax and forget our worries.

p84 p96 p93

p98 p88

DAY ON THE LAKE Carsington Water Derbyshire, p84

CAVES AND MINES Chapel Porth Cornwall, p88

SNOWDONIA STORIES Beddgelert Gwynedd, p92

GIANT’S REST Wandlebury Country Park Cambridgeshire, p93

CONQUER A MOUNTAIN Castle Crag Cumbria, p94

WILD WETLAND Stanwick Lakes

WALKING WITH KIDS Increasing numbers of studies show that woodlands have healing powers: they quicken recovery from illness, boost the immune system, lower blood pressure and reduce stress. Trees help to improve mood, sleep and energy levels and increase our ability to focus – great for children with ADHD. Water relaxes and invigorates, too. Throw a rug down on a

riverbank, beside a lake or reservoir and have an al fresco lunch. Skim stones. Have an energising swim in a mountain stream. Stretch out on a grassy bank, close your eyes and listen to the soothing babble of a brook. As you walk, introduce the youngest members of the family to the extraordinary world of nature: the strange whirring of a nightjar at dusk, the pale lights of glow-worms

You can easily spend a full day at Carsington Water, a reservoir lying just outside the Peak District National Park near Ashbourne. Along with its Wildlife Centre there are four other bird hides, while the nearby Water Centre hires out bicycles and boats. You can cycle the eight-mile perimeter of the reservoir or rent out paddleboards, rowing boats or sit-on-top kayaks for a lazy afternoon on the water. Walking is the ultimate way to experience the reservoir’s wildlife. Carsington Water has hosted over 200 species of birds, along with butterflies, bees and insects. Explore the surrounding wildflower meadows, reedbeds, ponds and woodlands, taking on the role of wildlife detective with young ones. Hunt pondlife, spiders and minibeasts. Spend the morning exploring the waterside attractions on the west side of the reservoir. From the main car park, follow the northbound path to the

SPIDERS AND PONDLIFE IN THE MEADOWS, REEDBEDS AND WOODS” after dark or fox cubs playfighting in a meadow. And more ordinary – but just as magical – the intricate patterns of leaves, the music of a songbird or the tiny details of moss and lichen. Take a magnifying glass and turn your ramble into a

FABULOUS FALLS Bracklinn Falls Stirlingshire, p97

AMBLES AND ADVENTURES Margam Country Park Neath Port Talbot, p98

FAMILY FRIENDLY NATURE TRAILS Top seven

RELAX BY THE RESERVOIR

“HUNT FOR MINIBEASTS,

Northamptonshire, p96

Nationwide, p100

treasure hunt and create lasting bonds and memories with your children. Photograph your discoveries, create art and forage for food. Visit a sculpture park or a nature reserve with bird hides. The secret to walking with children is to keep it to a manageable distance, make it an adventure and factor in a café stop.

ABOVE Hire bikes and try the family-friendly three-mile cycling route

www.countryfile.com/walks

GREAT DAYS OUT

Photos: Alamy

www.countryfile.com/walks

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

THE ROUTE 4 MILES 6.4KM 2.5 HOURS EASY

1 SCAN HERE

2 4

to access this route on your mobile device

ALONG THE WALL

From the south end of the main car park, head through trees, crossing the road by the marina to follow a wooded pathway out on to the head of the dam.

www.countryfile.com/walks

Photos Alamy

ABOVE At the Visitor Centre, pick up activity sheets for the kids, learn all about the story of water in the interactive exhibition, or stop for lunch or an ice cream at the Watermark Café overlooking the reservoir

Wildlife Centre, a wooden structure with a grass-turfed roof, interactive information panels and viewing windows overlooking Horseshoe Island. On-site staff are happy to point out the prolific birdlife that gathers in the water channel and off-shore islet. Look out for curlews, cormorants, coots, great crested grebes, mallards, tufted ducks and terns before retracing your steps to the car park. Here you’ll find the Visitor Centre. Inside, an interactive exhibition tells the story of water, from rainfall to tap. Upstairs, the bright and airy restaurant shows off ceiling-tofloor views of the reservoir and Stones Island. Explore the shops in the courtyard, ice-cream parlour and fascinating Kugel Stone – a one-tonne ball of granite that can be rotated on its thin film of water with just a finger. Climb nearby Stones Island with its modern interpretation of the prehistoric stone circle. Great stone slabs line the spiralling path. Peep through the portholes that are bored at various heights on the stone sculptures, each one framing a different view of the reservoir and surrounding countryside – great fun for the young and young-at-heart. Back at the car park, the green is perfect for a leisurely picnic, and children can enjoy the adventure playground. In the afternoon, walk across the dam head to Stones Shelter, a magical ramble along waterside and through woods to a fairy-tale cabin.

GREAT DAYS OUT

WOODS AND MEADOWS

Pause at the viewing area just beyond the dam head, a large circular construction with great vistas to the attractive Valve Tower controlling the flow of water. From here the path continues south, then east to Millfields car park – with an opportunity for a toilet stop and a drink or a snack at the ice-cream van. A pathway between woodland and wildflower meadow wriggles along the rest of the south end of the reservoir before heading north,

passing between Millfields Island and Hays Lane. 3

FAIRY TALE CABIN

Sticking as close to the banks of the reservoir as possible, you’ll soon reach Stones Shelter, a cabin filled with fantastical wooden furnishings that children will love. There’s a table, fireplace, picture frame with alpine scenes, armchair, piano, love-heart chair and decorative clock – all slightly wonky. It could be a scene from a Grimm’s fairy tale. Look up to see the bat box.

SEVERN HEAVEN

Returning to just beyond the viewpoint, drop down off the dam head and cross the road to take the Severn Trent Water track through the wildflower meadow, looking out for butterflies. At the other end, cross the road again to the path at the end of the marina and retrace your steps back to the main car park. Helen Moat is a travel and nature writer and author who lives in the Peak District.

FOUR MORE LAKES, LOUGHS AND PONDS FOR FAMILY ADVENTURES

How to use OS Maps on your device OS Maps gives unlimited access to OS maps throughout Great Britain. Discover hundreds of thousands of ready-made routes at your fingertips. No signal? No problem. Download maps and routes and use them wherever you go. Visualise your routes in full 3D, and print out as required. Use the AR Viewer to pan across the landscape and rediscover your view. Get access to the whole of Britain for only £23.95 for a 12-month subscription. HOW TO GET STARTED 1. To access BBC Countryfile Magazine routes, download a QR code reader app on to your phone.

BYSTOCK POOLS, DEVON, 1.2 miles Ramble over wildflower meadows and ancient heathland to Devon Wildlife Trust’s Bystock Pools. Adults and kids alike will enjoy stomping along the boardwalk beside the lily-padded water looking out for dragonflies and damselflies. devonwildlifetrust.org/ nature-reserves/bystock-pools

BOSHERSTON LILY PONDS, PEMBROKESHIRE, WALES, 1 mile Footbridges span wildlife-rich Bosherston Lily Ponds in Pembrokeshire, created for Stackpole Estate. Drop to the sandy estuary where Church Rock guards the bay – a child’s paradise. nationaltrust.org.uk/stackpole/ trails/bosherston-lily-ponds-freshwater-magic-walk

2. Hold the phone above the QR code beside the map.

GORTIN LAKES, COUNTY TYRONE, 0.6 miles Wander on a gently undulating gravel path around New and Oak loughs just south of the village of Gortin. A series of benches and glorious, far-reaching views of the Sperrin Mountains make this perfect for a slow stroll with a picnic. walkni.com/walks/gortin-lakes

www.countryfile.com/walks

MUIR OF DINNET, HIGHLAND, 3.5 miles Follow the Little Org Trail at Muir of Dinnet from Burn O’ Vat Visitor Centre in the Cairngorms. Discover a glacial cauldron, Iron Age hut circles, a Pictish cross and remnants of a 2,000-year-old crannog (artificial island). nature.scot/enjoying-outdoors/scotlandsnational-nature-reserves

3. The map will appear on your device, and off you go!

Chapel Porth is one of several beaches on St Agnes Head – head south on the coast path to visit Porthtowan and north to Trevaunance Cove

WALK: Chapel Porth, Cornwall

CAVES AND COOMBES This exciting summer adventure starts and ends with rolling waves, secret caves and the remains of a shipwreck on one of Cornwall’s least-known beaches, say Jen and Sim Benson

ST AGNES INDUSTRY Chapel Porth was a busy copper- and tin-mining area until the end of the 19th century and the place would have been dotted with heaps of spoil, mine

“ SCRAMBLE UP

part, covered over the past and you can now find trees such as willow, sycamore, blackthorn and elder growing along the rising valley of Chapel Coombe. Over the summer months, keep an eye (and ear) out for birds here, including wrens, warblers, stonechats and chaffinches during the day. At dusk, look out for the rare greater horseshoe bats that emerge from the mineshafts

ROCKY STACKS AND EXPLORE DEEP CAVES” workings and wooden huts and sheds, some of which are still visible. Nature has, for the most

on the hunt for flying insects. This walk showcases some of St Agnes’ finest coastal scenery, with all of the ascent taking place in the first half and a long, downhill finish back to the beach. 1

CLIMB THE COMBE

Start at the rear of the car park, then follow the footpath just to the right of the café. Cross over the footbridge and head away from the sea up the narrow valley of Chapel Coombe. Take care to keep to the path as the heather- and gorse-

www.countryfile.com/walks

Photos Alamy, Jen and Sim Benson

t may be tiny and relatively undiscovered compared to many of Cornwall’s beaches, but Chapel Porth and its surrounding area is a treasure trove of fascination and wonderful for walking. Any visit should either begin or end on the beach, watching the waves roll in, scrambling up the rocky stacks and exploring the deep caves that run with cascades of water. At low tide, you can spot the boiler of the SS Eltham, a steamer that was wrecked here during stormy high seas in 1928.

GREAT DAYS OUT

covered slopes hide the remnants of the area’s mining history, including mineshafts and spoil heaps. As you reach the Charlotte United engine house towards the top of the hill, you may spot orange staining on the soil and plants, caused by iron hydroxide being washed from the mines. 2

2.5 MILES 4KM 2 HOURS MODERATE

WELCOME INN

Continue on the footpath until you reach a minor road. Turn right here and follow the road through the hamlet of Towan Cross until you reach a junction opposite the Victory Inn. Turn right here and follow the road for a short distance, keeping to the verge, until you can turn right on to a bridleway signed to Porthtowan. Follow this towards the sea. 3

RUINS IN THE HEATH

Where the bridleway forks, stay right, following the path across the heathland towards the ruins of Great Wheal Charlotte, a former copper mine, now National Trust, that was used by US troops for target practice during the Second World War. Continue along the path to reach the headland summit of Mulgram Hill, from which you’ll see glorious coastal views on a clear day. 4

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

THE ROUTE

SCAN HERE to access this route on your mobile device

BACK TO THE BEACH

Turn right and follow the wide track, known locally as the American Road, as it zigzags down the headland towards Chapel Porth, turning left at the path junction at the bottom to return to the car park. Extract from 100 Great Walks with Kids: Fantastic Stomps Around Great Britain by Jen and Sim Benson (Bloomsbury, £16.99)

www.countryfile.com/walks

BELLYBOARDING

ABOVE The Benson family explores Chapel Porth’s natural arches and caves at low tide – the whole beach disappears at high tide

Chapel Porth has a long history of bellyboarding and hosted the World Bellyboard Championships between 2003 and 2015. The annual competition has now moved along the St Agnes coast to Perranporth, but the sport is a great introduction to surfing and a lot of fun.

E+OE Prices subject to change. Goods subject to availability

WALK: Beddgelert, Gwynedd

SNOWDONIA STORIES Ponder the grave of a legendary loyal hound and admire the scenery around the home of a famous bear’s creator, says Dorothy Hamilton ying in the heart of Snowdonia, Beddgelert is a small, beautiful conservation village nestled below mountains at the confluence of the Glaslyn and Colwyn rivers. Bedecked with flowers, it is the winner of several Village in Bloom contests. It’s a great place for families to visit, with tea gardens, picnic spots and a wide range of walks, including wheelchair- and pushchair-friendly paths.

Beautiful Beddgelert sits at the foot of the mountains of Snowdonia

HOUNDS AND BEARS

THE ROUTE

1.7 MILES 2.8KM 2 HOURS EASY

Walk to a ruin containing a dog sculpture before returning to the river. Bear right to reach the Welsh Highland Railway where the river is crossed parallel to the 25-mile line. Turn left and, after a gate and field, you’ll see a grassy hollow with log seating, perfect for a picnic.

1 3

2 SCAN HERE to access this route on your mobile device

GELERT’S GRAVE

From the car park below the railway station, go out to the road and turn left. When the road veers left, keep ahead on a lane beside Afon Colwyn, passing Caffi Colwyn Tea Garden. Beyond the toilets

RAIL OVER RIVER

(disabled, requires radar key) with baby-changing facilities and before a footbridge, turn right on to a concrete path beside Afon Glaslyn. Bear right to Gelert’s Grave, with its slate slabs telling Gelert’s story in English and Welsh.

PENLAN PLAQUE

At the footbridge, bear right on a path across the pretty green to a T-junction. Go left and, shortly after, right. A short distance uphill and you’ll soon see, on your left, Penlan Cottage with its plaque commemorating Alfred Bestall. Return downhill and keep ahead to the river before turning left to the footbridge and village centre. Dorothy Hamilton enjoys watching wildlife and taking long walks in the countryside.

www.countryfile.com/walks

Photo Getty

The easiest family-friendly walk is to Gelert’s Grave – the name of the village in English. During medieval times, Llywelyn ap Iorwerth, a Welsh prince, had a hunting lodge here. According to legend, he killed his faithful hound, Gelert, mistakenly thinking it had slaughtered his infant son – only to discover that the dog had in fact saved the child from a savage wolf. The village is also connected to Alfred Bestall, the illustrator and writer of Rupert Bear, who lived here at Penlan from 1956 to 1986. In 1935 he took over the Daily Express comic strip and many of his illustrations were inspired by the scenery around Beddgelert. An easy riverside walk with many resting places takes you to Gelert’s Grave and gives you a view of Penlan. You can arrive here by car, Sherpa bus or the Welsh Highland Railway, which runs between Caernarfon and Porthmadog.

DAY OUT: Wandlebury Country Park and the Gog Magog Hills, Cambridgeshire

GIANT’S RESTING PLACE Steeped in human history, local legend and incredible summer wildlife, Wandlebury and the surrounding hills offer an exciting and accessible day out for the entire family, says Bushra Abu-Helil ituated just five miles south of Cambridge city centre on the flowered slopes of the Gog Magog Hills is Wandlebury Country Park. With more than 60 hectares of woodlands and meadows to explore, the park leaves you spoilt for choice when it comes to walking paths. Enjoy eight miles of waymarked trails within the country park, or venture further afield and discover more adventurous routes through the surrounding hills. According to local folklore, the Gog Magog Hills are the final resting place of Cambridge’s

Photo Alamy

last giant, Gogmagog. Imagine the enormous beast roaming this land as you climb through forest to the hills’ highest peak (75m), where you’ll be rewarded with a 17-mile view towards the city of Ely.

STEP INTO THE PAST More than 2,000 years of human history can be traced at Wandlebury. Follow the footpaths through the outer ditches of the circular Iron Age hill fort; discover a 15th-century timber structure, once a granary, and the remains of an 18th-century walled garden and enjoy a picnic with views of the iconic

clock tower. Benches are scattered throughout the country park and BBQs are available to hire, too. Keep an eye out for the local land managers: the park’s Highland cows help to maintain the meadows year-round.

DENS AND HIDES Dedicated den-building areas within the deciduous woods means you can create your own enchanted forest hideout as a family. Afterwards, stroll between the trees and let the 400-metre beech avenue lead you north to the historic Roman Road.

Slightly secluded on the northern edge of Varley’s Field, just off the main perimeter path, is the Banyard Wildlife Viewing Hide. The shelter offers little naturelovers the chance to peacefully listen to birdsong and observe the variety of animals that visit the country park. The pond at the park entrance has a viewing platform, too, where you can spot grass snakes, water scorpions and other freshwater marvels. Bushra Abu-Helil is a passionate zoologist and environmentalist from Cambridgeshire.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Oxeye daisies – also known as dog daisies or moon daisies – carpet the slopes of Magog Down on the southern edge of the Gog Magog Hills; Highland cattle play an important role in maintaining Wandlebury’s meadows; discover history, nature and epic views www.countryfile.com/walks

Children will enjoy the opportunity to tackle their own Wainwright peak on the walk to Castle Crag’s summit

WALK: Castle Crag, Cumbria

CONQUER A MINI MOUNTAIN f all the 214 Lake District peaks described by Alfred Wainwright in his Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells, only one fails to nudge above 1,000 feet. Step forward the squat but noble Castle Crag, a steepsided, pine-clustered minimountain in the belly of Borrowdale, a few miles south of Keswick. It’s a lovely, rugged hill to look at (Wainwright himself described it as “aggressively unashamed of its

HILL TO LOOK AT AND A CRACKING PROPOSITION”

1 SPLASHING STREAM Follow the track from the far end of the National Trust car park at Seatoller. Take the left fork, then turn left at the stream. At the T-junction, turn right and follow the track through two gates to another stream. Cross over, continuing straight, until you reach the main path. Turn right.

not only a manageable adventure in terms of altitude gained and miles walked, but an epic undertaking in terms

2 BUMPY BORROWDALE You’re now on the old miner’s path for Honister Slate Mine, leading directly to the base

lack of inches”) and a cracking proposition if you’re with kids. For aspiring young fellbaggers, Castle Crag offers

of the wraparound scenic rewards – particularly when they learn that parts of Star Wars: The Force Awakens were filmed on nearby Derwent Water, visible from the summit. Above all, it’s a great little hike that offers just the right amount of challenge and provides a ‘grown up’ taste of walking in the Lake District.

“ IT’S A LOVELY RUGGED

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Photo Ben Lerwill, Getty

What this fell lacks in stature it makes up for in adventure, offering the whole family a flavour of longer hikes in the Lake District. Take an exciting trek up Castle Crag, says Ben Lerwill

GREAT DAYS OUT

of Castle Crag. Stay on this trail as it winds along the hillside, crossing numerous gills and affording glorious views of the mellow dips and folds of Borrowdale, surrounded by higher fells. The path is a pleasant and gently undulating one, snaking through beds of bracken. Keep your eyes peeled for high-flying buzzards. 3 PEAK PICNIC At Castle Crag itself, follow the obvious path to the top. It’s a fairly short, fairly sharp zigzagging climb – testing enough to feel you’ve earned your summit sandwiches. The views north, to Derwent Water and beyond, are superb. A memorial at the summit commemorates local Borrowdale men who died in the First World War.

4 DREAMY DERWENT Once back at the foot of Castle Crag, turn right rather than retracing your steps. In the woods, take the right fork across the footbridge, then a short while later, turn right immediately before the river, following the sign for Rosthwaite. This is another lovely stretch, sticking close to the burbling course of the Derwent. Keep the river on your left, eventually reaching the charming YHA Borrowdale – perfect for an ice-cream stop. The path along the river continues back to Seatoller, with one chainassisted scramble.

Ben Lerwill is a travel writer and children’s author who enjoys adventures big and small.

THE ROUTE

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

5 MILES 8.2 KM 3 HOURS MODERATE

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easy walk

MAKE A WEEKEND OF IT

ABOVE Castle Crag was mined for slate until the 1960s, and scattered fragments and slate heaps remain today along its scarred slopes

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Orrest Head is another modest Lake District hill, and the eminently achievable climb from the town of Windermere remains a go-to for parents who are looking to cajole their brood up a hill. Thanks to an easy walk up a woodland path, this is one of the most popular routes in the Lakes. Fells that can be seen from the top include Great Gable and Scafell Pike. countryfile.com/go-outdoors/walks/walk-orrest-head-cumbria

DAY OUT: Stanwick Lakes, Northamptonshire

WILD WETLAND This former gravel quarry in the Nene Valley is a marvellous location for a family outing, where fascinating history, pleasant walks and delightful wildlife converge, says Megan Shersby A low-carbon building, the Stanwick Lakes Visitor Centre uses electricity generated from its own solar panels and harvests rainwater for flushing the loos

DELICATE AND RARE More than 18 species of dragonfly and damselfly have been recorded at the lakes, from the large and impressive emperor and hairy dragonflies to the delicate and dainty banded demoiselle, and over 150 species of moths. While you’re searching for these, or birds such as sand martins or reed warblers, look for mammals, too. Elusive otters can be spotted on quiet days, and if you stay until dusk you may see bats swooping over the river and lakes searching for invertebrate prey. Birding highlights from Stanwick Lakes and local reserves in the last year or so include glossy ibis, black-

necked grebe, and even a flyover by a white-tailed eagle from the Isle of Wight reintroduction programme.

HUNT FOR HERITAGE Archaeological digs carried out here prior to quarrying, which started in 1985, uncovered thousands of years of human activity stretching back to the Neolithic period. Findings included barrows, Iron Age roundhouses, a deserted medieval hamlet called West Cotton and a Roman villa with mosaic floors. Walk along the Heritage Trail to visit a replica Iron Age roundhouse, and seek out the six stones around the trail that mark out the sites of historic settlements. You can

have a go at brass rubbing on the plaques in the stones. Some of the fascinating archaeological finds are on display in the visitor centre, and a Heritage Pack for children is available to buy. Find sculptures of local wildlife, explore the Adventure Trail, or cycle along the old railway line. There’s even an outdoor assault course (for children and adults) with monkey bars, tunnels and rope swings. Refuel at Café Solar in the award-winning visitor centre. Megan Shersby is the editorial and digital co-ordinator for BBC Wildlife Magazine.

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Photo Alamy

ith 300 hectares to explore, there’s more to Stanwick Lakes than may at first meet the eye. The site of thousands of years of human history, shaped by industrial activity, it’s now a beautiful, tranquil home for a wonderful array of wildlife. After gravel extraction came to an end here in 2004, the pits were shaped into lakes and trees were planted, creating a site with a range of habitats, including reedbeds and meadows. It soon became important for a huge variety of birdlife and was designated a Wetland of International Importance and a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

GREAT DAYS OUT

DAY OUT: Bracklinn Falls, Stirlingshire

GORGEOUS TREE FRINGED FALLS Children delight in running through the woodland on this much-loved walk to tumultuous falls, where a beautiful timber and copper bridge crosses the racing water, writes Fergal MacErlean opular since the onset of tourism in Victorian times, this route starts from the Bracklinn Falls car park in the holidayfeel town of Callendar – a gateway to the Highlands under the shapely peak of Ben Ledi. Leading through mixed woodland, below notched crags, it’s an ideal length for all the family at 1.5 miles return.

The Keltie Water rushes over a series of rocky drops at Bracklinn Falls. Encased by dense woodland, the spectacular gorge lies on the east of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park

TREE CREATURES In the woods, you stand a good chance of spotting red squirrels, especially if you are quiet. The tufty-eared creatures are a delight to watch and, if you’re lucky, you’ll see them scarpering through trees at lightning speed and on to impossibly thin branches in search of pinecones. These stripped cones often litter the forest floor. You will also hear the thrum of woodpeckers and perhaps spy a roe deer.

Photo: Getty

WHITEWATER FALLS Walk on to emerge from the woods into open countryside with views down to the River Teith; the old Dunblane to Oban rail line can also be seen. Further on, descend a steep section by a flight of steps and soon you will hear the roar of the falls. Over millennia, the power of the river has cut its way through the near-vertical bedding planes of a hard band of sandstone and conglomerate rock to form this feature. Don’t get close to the treacherous gorge edge. After a heavy rainfall, it’s an impressive sight as the Keltie

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Water churns white through a series of drops within the short, but dramatic, gorge to spill into a pool. The name Bracklinn is derived from the Gaelic breac, meaning trout, and linn, a pool of water. Queen Victoria visited the falls in the 1870s when an iron bridge over the water was

built. A flash flood swept that bridge away earlier this century and now a beautiful wooden and copper one – utilising the best in Scottish timber and engineering skill – gracefully spans the gorge. Enjoy the spectacle and sound of Mother Nature’s raw power before returning.

To round off an idyllic day and stave off hunger, Callendar has cafés, fish-and-chips and ice-cream shops and foodie bars with beer gardens. Fergal MacErlean is an outdoor writer who loves exploring Scotland on foot and by bike.

“ LOOK OUT FOR THE PARK’S AVIAN

Photo: Alamy

VISITORS HERONS HUNTING FOR BROWN TROUT, RAVENS AND BUZZARDS PATROLLING THE SKIES”

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GREAT DAYS OUT

DAY OUT: Margam Country Park, Neath Port Talbot, Wales

ABBEY, AMBLES AND ADVENTURE Rich in fascinating history, Margam Country Park offers a complete day out with wild walks, ruins, playgrounds and activities for all, writes Dixe Wills

ndustrial South Wales might not seem the obvious place to seek out a countryside walk with the family. However, if you venture just two miles from Port Talbot on Swansea Bay, you’ll come upon over 400 hectares of majestic woods, parkland and gardens waiting to be explored. Margam Country Park bristles with outdoor attractions for both adults and children, is free to visit (just a parking fee) and is home to more than 400 fallow, red and endangered Père David deer.

TRAILS APLENTY

Built in 1830–1840 for landowner and industrialist Christopher Rice Mansel Talbot, grand neo-Gothic Margam Castle boasts an octagonal tower and a vast staircase hall

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The park’s Wood Vibrations Trail takes visitors on a melodious quest through woodland to discover a selection of giant musical instruments. The Farm Trail introduces walkers to a host of rare and interesting breeds, including Glamorgan cattle, badger-face sheep and Buff Orpington hens. And for the under 10s, there’s Fairytale Land, with its own castle and miniature houses to play in. For extra action, head to the lake to try canoeing, kayaking or paddleboarding with Margam Park Adventure. There’s also a new adventure playground for children aged six to 12 and numerous loos dotted about, as well as Charlotte’s Pantry Café for take-away meals and snacks.

The ruined Cistercian abbey in the grounds was built when the Normans ruled these parts. A much later addition – the 18th-century orangery – is the longest in Britain and has its own gardens, providing wonderful vistas of the surrounding countryside. There’s even a Grade I-listed neo-Gothic castle and a narrow-gauge railway that will both reopen as soon as coronavirus restrictions allow.

MONASTIC MOSEY To give your legs a good stretch, head for the Monastic Trail. This 2.5-mile (4km) waymarked path is largely flat, with just one steep ascent, and is packed with interest. Beginning with a tour of the forested slopes of an Iron Age hill fort, the trail passes what was once a Celtic village. Investigate an old and ruinous dam and mill race built by monks; enjoy cracking views of the Cwm Phillip valley and Margam Forest, then climb to Hen Eglwys, the old Cistercian chapel on the summit of a hill. Keep a look out for the park’s avian visitors – long-tailed tits, herons hunting for brown trout, as well as ravens and buzzards patrolling the skies above. Dixe Wills is an author and travel journalist who lives in East Sussex. His books include Tiny Britain and Tiny Islands.

TOP SEVEN FAMILY FRIENDLY NATURE TRAILS A selection of adventurous yet easygoing wildlife walks, picked by seven nature writers from around the UK

6 3 1 4

CROM, COUNTRY FERMANAGH

The Famous Five would have relished this vast estate on the shores of Upper Lough Erne. Spot iridescent butterflies as they dance around Crom’s overgrown castle ruins, and play hide and seek among the contorted ancient yews. Follow the water’s edge and cross White Bridge to skirt the shores of peaceful Inisherk Island. On your return, look out for deer and pine martens foraging in the woodlands, and listen for elusive water rails piping their varied calls from within the reeds of Derrymacrow Lough. Daniel Graham

ONNY MEADOWS TRAIL, SHROPSHIRE

Slip through the Mammoth’s Tusks to Kingfisher Corner for flashes of this iridescent bird (below) darting along the River Onny. Look out for salmon, trout and otters in this Teme tributary. Gaze skywards for soaring buzzards and red kites. Return via the Oxbow Pools, a dragonfly hotspot, and the bee-loving wildflower meadow to the Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre’s popular café and outdoor playground. Simon Whaley

COCKINGTON COUNTRY PARK, DEVON

On this 2.5-mile trail, start at the car park and walk up the hill past the Blacksmith’s Cottage (spot the fox and hare on the roof). Turn right into the Manor Gardens. Head for the Gamekeeper’s Cottage before following the blue walk around the lakes, home to ducks, herons, common toads, roach and damselflies (below), before retracing your steps to the main path. Fi Darby

From the rare orchids and soaring skylarks of the plateau to the fallow deer nonchalantly watching on as you zigzag down the paved path, a walk from Clifton Lodge car park to the Mansion House is a nature-lover’s dream. It is also bookended by two cafés, so you might want to throw in a game of disc golf en route and really earn that chocolate brownie. Duncan Haskell

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ASHTON COURT, SOMERSET

GREAT DAYS OUT

CASTLE LOCH, DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY

Follow level tracks and boardwalks through reedbeds and flower-filled grassland on a three-mile circuit of heart-shaped Castle Loch. Look out for otters along the water’s edge, willow tits, up to 200 swans and ospreys hunting for a fish supper. Spot carvings in the woods, discover a ruined castle and enjoy refreshments in Lochmaben. Donald Greig and Darren Flint

WHITSTABLE TO TANKERTON, KENT

Studded with sea-kale hummocks, backed by hollyhocks and strewn with native oyster shells, Whitstable’s shingly/sandy beach is stalked by oystercatchers (below) and curlews at the water’s edge. Along the coast in Tankerton, time your visit for low tide and you can walk out for half a mile along a shingle spit – called The Street – for the best beach-hut views. Adrienne Wyper

BRADENHAM BUTTERFLY TRAIL, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

This charming 2.3-mile walk through Bradenham’s woodlands and grasslands, where wildflowers and 28 species of butterfly have been recorded, also offers a stunning viewpoint overlooking the Chiltern Hills. See abundant marbled whites and common butterfly species, while looking out for green fritillaries, small blues and Duke of Burgundies. Susie Kearley

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June

Lazy days BOOKS TV RADIO PODCASTS LETTERS PUZZLES Reviews editors: Margaret Bartlett, Maria Hodson

The magnificent poplar hawk-moth flies from May to July; look for it after dark in woodlands, parks and gardens

MOTHS UNDER THE MAGNIFYING GLASS An enthusiastic celebration of a beautiful and often underrated insect BOOK amazing, life-giving, almost infinitely rare breeds and scarce migrants, varied, dazzlingly colourful and – perhaps revelling in Kentish glory (in Scotland), MUCH ADO to many people’s surprise – accessible. a triumphant triumvirate of burnets and ABOUT MOTHING BY JAMES LOWEN BLOOMSBURY PUBLISHING, £18.99 HB

invitation and eat our clothes. But the reality, as sumptuously described in this book, is quite different. Moths are

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There is a portfolio of more than 100 species seen in everybody’s garden. The scales fell from James Lowen’s eyes in 2012, when a friend introduced him to a poplar hawk-moth, and he was bewitched – enough to spend an entire year chasing after many of Britain’s rarest and charismatic species. Many traveller’s tales grace the pages of this book, written with craft and class. We visit Scotland, Kent, Norfolk and everywhere in between, searching for

even a micro-moth called Geoff. The ride is as mad as a moth’s meanders. But what might surprise most is the sociability of it all. James rarely travels alone, and sidekick Will gets hitched when eyes meet across a moth-trap bulb. Best of all we meet Maya, Lowen’s daughter, who has a morning ritual of seeing what the lepidopterist’s “postman” has sent overnight. Her delight is our hope for the future of these awesome insects. Dominic Couzens, birder and author

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LAZY DAYS

Scaling the Devil’s Slide on Lundy Island is not for the faint of heart

BOOK THE SCREAMING SKY BY CHARLES FOSTER LITTLE TOLLER BOOKS, £15 HB Every spring, swift-obsessive

heartache during the nerve-wracking wait for his neighbourhood swifts to reappear from Africa. The UK swift population fell 41% between 2008 and 2018, and so he fears that one year they won’t return. Summer simply wouldn’t be the same without these high-octane visitors and their joyous screaming parties. This wonderful little book is about one man’s passion for swifts (the beautiful cover and illustrations are by another ‘swift nut’, Jonathan Pomroy). It’s full of science but also wonder, because nothing about these birds is ordinary. As Foster wryly observes: “Self-esteem is hard when you look at swifts.” We learn that at dawn and dusk they ascend to 1,800 metres, maybe to socialise or recalibrate their internal compass; that as the adults shoot into their nest cavity and come to a sudden stop, their tiny toes endure a “seemingly impossible” pressure of 40kg; that fledglings are ready to migrate at just 43 days old; that they comfortably fly 36,000 miles a year. Foster perfectly captures the strange magic of swifts, as he tries to imagine what it’s like to be one. He points out that their screams, which thrill us on balmy evenings, must sound very different to their ears: more like hens clucking or old men muttering. Ultimately, he says, the wildness of swifts is what makes them special. It’s for the best that we don’t understand everything about them. We need them to retain their mystery. Ben Hoare, naturalist and author

BOOK FRINGED WITH MUD AND PEARLS BY IAN CROFTON BIRLINN, £20 HB Encouraged by a neuropsychologist to write near-fatal climbing accident,

England’s more arresting islands. Written in the order he visited them, this is his narrative of “an odyssey, a journey of recovery, a difficult return to the place I was before I fell”. Only later does it become evident that he is not young but in his mid-60s (and still climbing: he takes on Lundy Island’s Devil’s Slide – graded ‘hard severe’ – during his research). Though Crofton’s descriptions of the early islands – and particularly their

CATCH UP TV LANDWARD BBC SCOTLAND, AVAILABLE ON IPLAYER

Photo: Getty, Alamy

In this new series of Scotland’s farming and countryside programme, the first episode sees presenter Dougie Vipond visiting Tentsmuir National Nature Reserve in Fife to find out how the surge in visitors during this year’s lockdown has affected the reserve. He also meets the president of the Farmers Union to discover how the industry is adjusting to post-Brexit life. Presenter Arlene Stuart heads to the banks of the Forth, hoping

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flora – are elegant, his conversations with locals are largely perfunctory and unenlightening. Indeed, he doesn’t really seem to be enjoying himself much as he trails around Essex (Canvey and Wallasea), Kent (Sheppey) and London (Eel Pie, Isle of Dogs). However, the author warms to his task as he heads further afield. His historical research picks up, too – fascinating and occasionally terrifying tales emerge of bravery, skulduggery and cunning (there’s a lot of smuggling and salvaging). While Scillonians will roll their eyes at his perpetual misnaming of their archipelago, the final chapters – particularly those on Scilly, Hilbre and the Isle of Wight – make for a really engaging, warts and all, armchair-travel read. The therapy, it appears, has worked a treat. Dixe Wills, travel writer and author

to catch sight of a visiting humpback whale, while Anne Lundon is in Sutherland finding out what it’s like to be a pupil at Britain’s most remote school. Episode two celebrates Scotland’s spectacular landscapes. Dougie meets a team of archaeologists making incredible discoveries at a spectacular hill fort in Aberdeenshire, while Anne finds out why there is a bid for the Flow Country’s blanket bog to be recognised as a World Heritage Site. In episode three, Dougie walks the Postie’s Path in Wester Ross to learn how the route is being preserved for the future.

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LAZY DAYS

MUSIC A POCKET FULL OF ACORNS BY NINEBARROW, NINEBARROW.CO.UK

Not only did Lord Nelson’s right-hand man,

BOOK BEAK, TOOTH AND CLAW BY MARY COLWELL WILLIAM COLLINS, £16.99 HB Nature writer Mary Colwell mixes science, emotion, psychology, folklore and philosophy in this brave attempt to articulate our “dysfunctional relationship” with foxes, badgers, corvids, birds of prey and seals. Colwell provides quotes and a range of opinions: “It’s not rational,” says a farmer defending livestock, while a fisherman wants “to give fish a chance”. This would not have been an easy book to write. The sight of a gun unsettles Colwell as she seeks to steer those who legally cull predators towards a more thoughtful stance, while urging others to understand why predators

BOOK WILD SWIMMING WALKS CORNWALL BY MATT NEWBURY AND SOPHIE PIERCE WILD THINGS PUBLISHING, £14.99 PB Where better to seek out wild swimming spots than bountiful and balmy Cornwall? Finding your perfect swimming location isn’t always easy. Inaccessible beaches, steep riverbanks and uncertain access regulations can all be an issue. Luckily for us, Matt and Sophie have done the legwork and come up with 28 fabulous walking routes, all with at least one outdoor swimming opportunity.

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have to be managed. Trouble is, nature doesn’t do welfare or compassion of individuals. Conservationists, of all hues, are the ones with value judgements, on which emotionally divisive subjects Colwell skates between as she stitches together a complex range of narratives. In all the emotion, Colwell misses opportunities to frame where common ground might be fostered in relearning an ability to co-exist with predators. She observes “the majority of Britain is settled into the comfort of convenient urbanisation and removed from the intensity of the wild”, lacking a “cultural carrying capacity” for tooth-and-claw wildlife, even if our pets are the domestic equivalents. Colwell ends up conflicted – “trapped between pragmatism and distress” – which may also leave many readers in the same state. Rob Yorke, rural commentator

If you think wild swimming in Cornwall is all about white sand beaches, this book will put you right. With walks that include moorland swims, quarry plunges and river swooshes, you’ll be spoilt for choice both inland and on the coast. Whether you’re walking to swim, or swimming to cool off, this book has plenty to offer. As soon as I picked it up, I wanted to start exploring. Ever mindful of the environment and communities in which they’re swimming, Matt and Sophie have taken great care to select walks and swims that are accessible from public footpaths and land. They have also included their own, very sensible wild swimming code. Perhaps my favourite thing is the photography. Each page

ABOVE Try a sunset dip at Portwrinkle Beach depicts not only the stunning scenery you would expect, but also the sense of fun that is so much a part of the swimming community. This one’s definitely on my exploration list. Fi Darby, outdoors writer and blogger

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Photo: Getty

Foxes are opportunistic hunters, eating everything from beetles to deer fawns

give folk duo Jon Whitley and Jay LaBouchardiere the inspiration to create the hauntingly beautiful title track of their fourth album, he also gave them an idea of how to offset their carbon footprint from years of touring. This year, the pair planted a 1,000-tree woodland in North Dorset with the help of the Woodland Trust’s MOREwoods Scheme. Named after Nine Barrow Down in the Purbeck Hills, Ninebarrow’s closely knitted soulful harmonies and accomplished instrumentation weave a kind of magic on this delightful album. With a mix of well-crafted original songs and folk favourites, Jay and Jon’s passion for nature underpins every lyric. ‘You Who Wander’ is a joyful ode to walking over mountain and heath, while the title track takes you deep into the rustling woods. A songbook with lyrics and gorgeous images accompanies the CD. Keen walkers, the pair have also published their second book of musicinspired walks around their county. In Ninebarrow’s Dorset Volume 2, each walk reflects the story of a Ninebarrow song. Margaret Bartlett, production editor

LAZY DAYS

Matt Baker THE COUNTRYFILE PRESENTER GOES BEHIND THE SCENES ON HIS SHOWS AND FAMILY FARM FROM RURAL ROOTS TO COUNTRY MUSIC

Photos: Oliver Edwards, Getty

BELOW Country music icon Dolly Parton plays at the Ryman Auditorium, New Orleans

For as long as I can remember, my dad has had guitars hanging on the wall. He taught me how to play a few chords when I was growing up and I’ve been hooked ever since. I love the concept of country music, the stories rooted in the landscape and the things that have been happening while working out in the wilds. Because I grew up on a farm, it was the kind of music that appealed to me and every time I jumped in a truck there was always a country cassette blaring out. I would learn songs from the likes of Kenny Rogers, Dolly Parton, Glen Campbell and Don McLean and I played them mostly by ear, because, as a dyslexic, I find it hard to read music. For years, my dad and I would look at guitars in the windows of music shops all over the North East. With my very first pay packet from Blue Peter, I bought my dad his dream guitar – a vintage Gibson 335 Sunburst,

the kind that BB King used to play. A love of guitars runs in the family, as my son now plays better that both me and my dad, making good use of the ever-growing family guitar collection.

MUSICAL MEETINGS My television work has led to an incredible number of inspiring musical experiences. I have met the biggest names in the world of country music, from Dolly Parton to the late Glen Campbell, Taylor Swift and Don McLean, who my dad came in to see when Don appeared on the show. Dad arrived with an acoustic guitar and a sharpie and Don very kindly signed it for him! Unsurprisingly, both Dad and I wanted to visit the country music Mecca that is Nashville, so, for my dad’s 70th birthday, I surprised him with a trip there. We had the best time visiting all the iconic venues, studios and stages, from the Grand Ole Opry to the Ryman Auditorium. We went everywhere! We got to see the houses of all those greats that I have had the privilege to chat to. All arranged by Bob Harris’s music producer, the generous Mark Hagen. These days I have a piano at home, which I also love to play. Having finished The One Show, I find that I am spending more and more time sitting at the piano in the evening, playing random songs and improvising to the faces of all those fabulous musicians that I’ve met over the years, who have been kind enough to sign a photo for me. They all sit framed on the top of my piano, watching me as I indulge in my hobby of songwriting, inspired by them and the landscape that has always been so special to me.

“Every time I jumped in a truck, there was always a country cassette blaring out”

Watch Matt on Countryfile, Sunday nights on BBC One.

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Your countryside HAVE YOUR SAY ON RURAL ISSUES Share your views and opinions by writing to us at: Have your say: BBC Countryfile Magazine, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST; or email editor@countryfile.com, tweet us @CountryfileMag or via Facebook www.facebook.com/countryfilemagazine *We reserve the right to edit correspondence.

I thoroughly enjoyed the February issue of BBC Countryfile Magazine with its emphasis on wellbeing and peaceful escapes. I personally find time out in the countryside, and especially being among animals, very calming, focusing me ‘in the moment’. The idea of walking with ponies sounds wonderful (Sara Maitland’s column) and I wanted to mention an alternative, which is to walk with alpacas (or llamas). These inquisitive, intelligent and endearing creatures will engage with you and slow you down, enabling appreciation of both your surroundings and their characters. There are many alpaca farms that offer these experiences now. Where I live in Norfolk there are opportunities for these activities in many beautiful surroundings, including the Norfolk Broads. For a dose of fresh air, exercise and the company of these lovely animals, why not sign up for the experience? Alpacas can be addictive in a very positive way! Vera Batey, Harleston, Norfolk

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letter of the month

ACCESS MORE AREAS

I am disabled above the knee on my right leg. Please could you help me find out how I can get around on my mobility scooter? I have become so frustrated with the National Trust and the Canal River Trust because I find it hard to explore a lot of the places I visit as a result of kissing gates. Would it be possible for you to talk to these trusts? Please help me to get them to try to change the kissing gates to normal gates. I just want to be able to enjoy places that I used to walk before my near-fatal accident – it seems so unfair not to be able to have access. I have tried to talk to the Canal and River Trust and the National Trust but they are so unhelpful. I feel so discriminated by this. I have seen people on mobility scooters on Countryfile on Sundays. Mark Kelly, Bedfordshire

Editor Fergus Collins replies: Many organisations are trying hard to make the countryside more accessible. We too have a big responsibility in showcasing locations and routes open to all. Our Walking Special issue, published this spring, looked at accessible routes with the writer Debbie North. View other accessible routes online at countryfile.com/accessible-days-out

THE PRIZE This star letter wins a portable and lightweight Helinox Chair One, worth £90. Easy to assemble thanks to DAC aluminium alloy technology and with breathable fabric for great comfort, the Helinox Chair One comes in a tiny pack size and weighs only 850g. helinox.eu

DOG TRAINING I was disappointed to read that Sara Maitland (April issue) is a proponent of the view that puppies need to be dominated. Dogs need leadership and training, but do not need to be dominated. This is a very old-fashioned view. If owners use ‘dominance techniques’, it can lead to fearful dogs and severe behaviour problems. If you train

your puppy using reward-based techniques, it will listen to you and trust you. If you dominate your dog, you will ruin the relationship and will not stop it chasing livestock. I agree with Sara’s final points – training your dog is your responsibility and it should always be on a lead around livestock. Laura Travis, clinical animal behaviourist, via email

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Photos Alamy, Getty

WALKING WITH ALPACAS

LAZY DAYS

Released annually for game shooting, the red-legged partridge is commonly found on farmland

it in a book on the subject, my sister and I took her there one spring. The day brings back happy memories as she was so thrilled to see it in its quiet and peaceful location. Angela Shale, Fareham, Hampshire

AMERICAN DAWN CHORUS

Stranger in the garden I awoke this morning to find this most unusual bird outside my mother’s home in Seaford, East Sussex [inset]. Do you have any idea what it is? Duncan Lloyd-James, East Sussex Editor Fergus Collins replies: This looks like a red-legged partridge, which is often reared and released into the countryside – like the pheasant – for game shooting.

Fifield Bavant

I’ve been listening to your podcast since its beginning and I wanted to tell you how much I’ve appreciated having it there as a virtual escape to the UK throughout lockdown. I had been planning my first-ever trip to England, Wales and Scotland when the pandemic struck and this provided me with a great way to get over that frustration. I listen from Brooklyn, New York in the USA. Recently I was in upstate New York reintroducing some American chestnut trees to a property my family owns, and I recorded the tail-end of the dawn chorus before I left. Most prominent is the song of the American robin. I was very interested to learn that the American robin is not at all related to the European robin and was only called such by early European settlers because it has a similar red breast. Thanks again for your excellent podcast! Blake Enos, New York, USA

MAKING TURBINES SAFER

Gypsy church, Bramdean Co

TINIEST CHURCH I did enjoy your article on quirky churches in the April issue. How about the smallest church in Wiltshire, in the smallest village, just two houses – Fifield Bavant? Mary Ivor, Wiltshire

WORSHIP IN THE WOODS The article on ‘Britain’s quirkiest churches’ reminded me of a pretty

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mmon

church tucked away in the woods in a remote part of Hampshire. It’s a quaint little Gypsy church, mostly constructed of corrugated iron, which can only be reached via a footpath. It is only used during the summer months; the vicar who looks after it removes valuables over the winter. My mother was always interested in Gypsy lore and traditions and after she read about

From a Norwegian investigation, it looks as though having a single black arm on a turbine could reduce turbine-related bird deaths by “around 70%”. Is this something that Countryfile could look into and promote? It seems such a simple idea. Obviously, it would be best if the black blade were part of the original installation, so with wind farms proliferating, it needs addressing urgently. Caroline Carless, via email

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Shorts for walkers We test the best short trousers for summer hikes and adventures Words: Pat Kinsella

BBC Countryfile Magazine favourite

Men’s Maui Shorts Páramo, £65; paramo-clothing.com Perfect for both outdoor escapades close to home and travelling adventures further afield, Páramo’s Maui shorts (pictured left) offer functionality, features and style. They are made with the brand’s quick-drying Parameta A Cotton+ fabric, which wicks and spreads moisture and supplies excellent protection from everything, from harmful levels of UV to biting insects (which can’t penetrate the dense fabric weave). They’re pretty light (around 300g) and allow decent freedom of movement. The storage space is excellent for walkers and travellers, with two deep front pockets complimented by a zipped back pocket and a cargo-style thigh pouch that’s large

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enough to completely swallow an OS Map, or even hold a water bottle. Within this cargo pouch is a hidden zipped pocket, perfect for securely carrying a passport when you’re in transit. The waist is slightly elasticated and works without a belt, but there are sturdy hoops to accommodate one if preferred. VERDICT: Stylish, functional and comfortable. A women’s version would be welcome. 9/10 • FOR WOMEN: Páramo don’t make an equivalent version of the Maui shorts for women, but they do make the Alipa short (£75, pictured right), made from a quick-drying and breathable synthetic fabric. This sporty style is good for speed-hiking and cycling.

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LAZY DAYS

Women’s Sport Hike Shorts Smartwool, £64.99; smartwool.co.uk

Men’s Alpine Hemp Cargo Shorts Salewa, £85; salewa.com

For those who prefer to catch a bit more vitamin D when they’re out and about, these short shorts are made from a dynamic and lightweight synthetic material that dries quickly and doesn’t restrict movement at all. The waistband and pockets are lined with a 56% merino wool fabric, supplying lovely next-to-skin comfort. The waist is fastened with two snap poppers, and there is a surprising amount of pocket space (two at the back, two at the front, and a ‘secret’ fifth pocket with a zip to secure the contents. For men, Smartwool offers the similar Merino Sport Lined 5-inch short (£59.99). VERDICT: Lightweight, comfortable, with five pockets. 7/10

An exceptionally good-looking piece of outdoor clothing with a comfortable fit and feel, these shorts are made primarily from hemp – a natural product which is much more eco-friendly than synthetic materials because it biodegrades. Hemp fabric is also breathable, moisture-wicking, soft on skin and lightweight, making these shorts good performers when worn in the hills on long summer hikes. There is a modest-sized zipped pocket on each thigh – big enough to hold a phone, compass and snacks, but a lack of back or side pockets. Women’s version not yet available. VERDICT: Good looking, soft, a little short on pockets. 8/10

BEST ecofriendly

Kiwi Pro Shorts (M/F) Craghoppers, £50 (men’s) / £40 (women’s); craghoppers.com British brand Craghoppers is well known for the quality of its walking apparel, and these good-value shorts (nine-inch length for men, seven-inch for women) are extremely functional, with two hand pockets (one with an integrated wipe for cleaning glasses or lenses), plus a thigh pocket on the right leg, and also a rear pocket, all of which have zips. The Kiwi Pros are made with a quick-drying and comfortable, partially recycled fabric that stretches to allow ease of movement while walking and climbing over stiles. VERDICT: Functional shorts in quick-drying fabric. 8/10

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Wayfarer Short (unisex) £65; salomon.com These lightweight (200g) and dynamic walking shorts are made with four-way stretch material, so you can move freely. There are belt hoops, but the waist is elasticated and fastens with a popper. The water-repellent fabric has a soft next-to-skin feel and is highly breathable, so you don’t get too sweaty even on the hardest of hill hikes. In severe downpours they do take on water, but dry extremely quickly. The Wayfarers are built more for freedom of movement and speed than storage, but they have two open side pockets, and one thigh pocket with a zip. VERDICT: Lightweight, breathable, comfortable. 7/10

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LIM Fuse Shorts (M/F) Haglofs, £65; haglofs.com

Overland shorts (M/F) Jack Wolfskin, £60; jack-wolfskin.co.uk

Weighing in at just 160g for men (large, pictured left) or 140g for women (size 40), these shorts pack a lot of performance into a lightweight garment. The material is technically advanced and dynamic, allowing as much movement as you’ll ever need. The Climatic fabric has been doused with a fluorocarbon-free DWR (durable water repellent) treatment, so it will cope with light rain, and dries quickly if you’re caught in a downpour. There are two hand pockets at the front, plus a zipped pocket on the right thigh. There are no belt loops, but the elasticated waist has an internal drawstring. VERDICT: Lightweight, quick-drying. 7/10

Made from a stretchy softshell fabric, the Overland shorts perform well in adverse conditions. Being windproof and water-resistant, they offer more protection than most other shorts on test, and can comfortably be worn at higher altitudes during the warmer months. These would be our pick for long hill walks during the summer. They’re nice and stretchy, allowing complete freedom of movement, while remaining breathable and lightweight. There are four zipped pockets in total, two on the front, one on the thigh and one at the back. The waist is elasticated, with extra belt hoops. VERDICT: Windproof, stretchy, good for hill or coast walks. 8/10

BEST

Men’s Extrem Baggy short (£75) + Women’s Baggy Light short (£65) Berghaus; berghaus.com

Explorer Women’s Long Shorts (£33.99) + Men’s Trek Shorts (£29.99) Mountain Warehouse; mountainwarehouse.com

Excellent for long days on the trails, the men’s Extrem Baggies (left) are versatile and richly featured. They’re nicely designed and shaped to allow movement, but – despite the name – not overly baggy. There are two generous zipped pockets at the front, plus a thigh and rear pocket, all with zips. Mesh-backed vents on each thigh allow good airflow. The closest women’s version is the slightly more pared-back Baggy Light Short (£65), made of a similar lightweight material that repels water, and dries fast even if does get drenched. VERDICT: Breathable, good pockets, great ventilation. 9/10

Sometimes simplicity and comfort are all you really require from a pair of walking shorts, and these two styles tick these boxes perfectly while delivering on functionality and features (particularly the Trek), even if they won’t win any awards for sartorial style. Both designs are long (to just above the knee) and are made with a quick-drying, lightweight fabric, which also supplies UV protection. The Explorer (right) has two zipped front pockets, while the Trek features two zipped cargo pockets and two back pockets. VERDICT: Simple but basic. 6/10

For more reviews of outdoor gear, go to countryfile.com/country-kit

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“Science with Nature”

Peter Moore is a specialist plant breeder introducing high quality plants to the industry Escallonia Showstopper ‘Pmoore20’

Philadelphus ‘Fragrant Falls’

For more information on these and other plants bred by Peter Moore, see his website www.bredbypetermoore.co.uk

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Country puzzles RACK YOUR COUNTRYFILE BRAIN WITH THESE WILD AND WONDERFUL GAMES COUNTRYSIDE QUIZ

answers at bottom of page 113 b) A lichen c) A beaver’s territorymarking secretion d) Otter droppings

Heather in bloom in the New Forest – but when did it become a National Park?

10. According to a beekeepers’ saying, what is “a swarm in June” worth? a) A silver spoon b) A waxing moon c) Nothing but a tune d) A gold fortune 11. Which decade witnessed a revival of interest in popular gatherings at Stonehenge for June’s summer solstice? a) 1870s b) 1890s c) 1910s d) 1960s 1. Which of the following fish is not native to the UK? a) Rainbow trout b) Brown trout c) Grayling d) Atlantic salmon 2. Adder’s meat, popguns, wedding cakes and daddy’s shirt buttons are common names for which plant? a) Burdock b) Broom c) Greater stitchwort d) Rosebay willowherb 3. Who, in 1953, became Britain’s first certified female climbing guide? a) Nea Morin b) Gwen Moffat c) Catherine Destivelle d) Rebecca Stephens

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4. When was the New Forest made a National Park? a) 1978 b) 1995 c) 2005 d) 2012 5. The River Onny flows through which county? a) Wiltshire b) Gloucestershire

curlew

b) Whimbrel, Eurasian curlew c) Long-billed, little curlew d) Bristle-thighed, far-eastern curlew 7. Which of these Lake District peaks is below 1,000ft (304m)? a) Black Fell b) Holme Fell c) High Rigg

12. Which of these is the only raptor to have a reversible hind toe? a) Sparrowhawk b) Osprey c) Red kite d) Kestrel 13. When was the iron bridge – the world’s first – erected over the River Severn in Shropshire? a) 1779 b) 1798 c) 1827 d) 1846 14. In which country park is the ancient Major Oak found? a) Carnfunnock b) Worcester Woods c) Sherwood Forest d) Beecraigs

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LAZY DAYS

CROSSWORD SOLUTIONS

COUNTRYSIDE CROSSWORD by Eddie James

MAY ACROSS 1 Observe ... one (possibly two) on each wing of a small cabbage white butterfly (4) 4 Luxury vehicle – flattens bumps in grass! (5) 7 Band of neck feathers displayed by great crested grebe (4) 9 Blue John ___, in the Peak District (6) 10 Long-legged insect: its larva is a leatherjacket (8) 11 Market town on Weardale Way... gives Ollie’s comic partner optimism (8) 12 See 14 across 14/12 Britain’s rarest reptile (6,5) 16 Gulp! It’s a long-winged migratory bird (7) 18 Name for a mountain of England or Wales over 2,000ft (7) 21 Brown, orange-spotted, edible flatfish (6) 22 A form of land enclosure – criminal type? (5) 23 Wading bird, smaller than curlew – blew him right around! (8) 25 Resort on Cardigan Bay, um, Hobart maybe! (8) 27 Hebridean island famed for its cave of basalt columns (6) 28 It’s said to scare off creatures, part of owl’s hoot (4) 29 County (abbrev.) famous for its limestone pavements (5) 30 Pursue e.g. prey

EDITORIAL Editor Fergus Collins Production editors Margaret Bartlett and Maria Hodson Features editor Joe Pontin Art editor Tim Bates Deputy art editor Laura Phillips Picture editor Hilary Clothier Section editor Daniel Graham Group digital editor Carys Matthews Editorial and digital coordinator Megan Shersby

DOWN: 1 Wrens Nest 2 Tolkien 3 Eagle 4 Springs 5/26 Dee Way 6 Tabular 13 Nutty 15 Vinca 17 Field vole 19 Migrant 20 Matlock 21 Lamorna 24 Talon.

WALKING SPECIAL DOWN 2 Horticulturalists re-arranged 10 palms by end of garden (9) 3 A Cornish village on SWCP – enter, awkwardly (5) 4 An area in the heart of the Highlands – reconstructed on ranch (7) 5 Moss-like growths on trees and rocks (7) 6 Mumbles is at the southern tip of this Welsh bay (7) 7 Regret this bitter-scented herb? (3) 8 Fleas disturbed: that’s not right! (5) 13 Scottish town on the Forth ... ADVERTISING AND MARKETING Group advertising manager Laura Jones, 0117 300 8509 Advertising manager Neil Lloyd, 0117 300 8813 Senior sales executive Samantha Wall, 0117 300 8815 Sales executive Stephanie Hall, 0117 300 8535 Classified sales executives Antony Jago, 0117 300 8543 Alex Armstrong, 0117 300 8538 Subscriptions director Jacky Perales-Morris Senior marketing executive Tom Bull Press & PR manager Dominic Lobley and Emma Cooney

amidst tall oaks (5) 15 Cumbrian village on Coast to Coast path – or not, perhaps! (5) 17 Cambridgeshire nature reserve: the first to be owned by National Trust (6,3) 19 Wiltshire location of Europe’s largest stone circle (7) 20 Hills on Southern Upland Way – in hollow, there (7) 21 Clergymen, used to kill hooked fish quickly! (7) 22 Peak District village (England’s highest) – very ostentatious (5) 24 Sea shore – and tree, we hear (5) 26 Low sound from a bovine? (3) LICENSING Director of international licensing and syndication Tim Hudson PRODUCTION Production director Sarah Powell Junior production co-ordinator Sarah Greenhalgh Ad services manager Paul Thornton Ad designer Parvin Sepehr Ad co-ordinator Florence Lott PUBLISHING Publisher Andrew Davies Promotions and partnerships manager Rosa Sherwood Publishing assistant Lara Von Weber Managing director Andy Marshall

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ACROSS: 7 Swill 8 Husbandry 11 Esk 12 Mange 13 Geese 14 Farrows 16 Pyramid 18 Blakeney Point 22 Warbler 24 GM crops 26 Token 28 Ovoid 29 Hoe 30 Hen houses 31 Allen DOWN: 1/9 Isle of Sheppey 2/29 Milk Hill 3 Glamrock 4 Rhynes 5 Badger 6 Edge 10 Yields 15 Ruler 17 Munro 19 Narrows 20 Orcadian 21 Twitch 23 London 24 Grouse 25 Skeins.

MANAGEMENT CEO Tom Bureau BBC STUDIOS UK PUBLISHING Chair, Editorial Review Boards Nicholas Brett Managing director, consumer products and licensing Stephen Davies Director, Magazines Mandy Thwaites Compliance manager Cameron McEwan UK publishing co-ordinator Eva Abramik uk.publishing@bbc.com www.bbcstudios.com SUBSCRIPTIONS AND BACK ISSUES Annual subscription rates (inc P&P): UK/BFPO £61.75; Europe and Republic of Ireland £72.50; rest of world £76.50. July–Dec 2019 40,226

ANSWERS QUIZ: 1a, 2c, 3b, 4c, 5c, 6b, 7d, 8c, 9a, 10a, 11a, 12b, 13a, 14c

Photos: Alamy

This magazine is published by Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited under licence from BBC Worldwide.

ACROSS: 1 Withers 5 Ditch 8 Dell 9 Gorge 10 Bore 11/7 Shire horse 12/23 Nantlle Ridge 14 Ben Nevis 16 Thrift 18 Stamen 20 Mayflies 22 Froggatt 24 Tamed 25 LDWA 26 Whorl 27 Root 28 Entry 29 Kenmare

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The Falkirk area is home to 2 of the world’s unique visitor attractions - The Falkirk Wheel and the Kelpies. Rich in history, with World Heritage UNESCO site the Antonine Wall, the impressive Callendar House & Park, Bo’ness & Kinneil Steam Railway, Blackness Castle and lots more. Plus an extensive path networkvoted ‘Britain’s Best Walking Neighbourhood’ by Ramblers.

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might be more aggressive than big ones. But the inspiring stories are out there. Everywhere, magnificent and gracious people are quietly doing things that make life better. So quietly, that we must deliberately set out to find them, to prove there is much more good than bad.

Ellie Harrison Celebrating the quiet heroes who work tirelessly to give young people the chances they deserve I’m into my second quarter of a news blackout at home. It was necessary protection during the frenzied press response to the pandemic. I like that it is now me who determines the editorial that enters my head. There may even be a smugness to finding this quietness of mind. But, also, a nagging doubt. For, while the ranking of headlines often looks absurd, there are real stories of suffering from humans all over the globe that I feel it is my duty to know about, even if engaging with the news exposes us to the trauma, then leaves us powerless in its wake. Credible journalists are duty-bound to keep their wellresearched ideas for change to themselves. So, occasionally, I’ll peer above the trench into the world of suggested news, only to learn about Twitter spats, TV spoilers and why small dogs 122

After a year in which young people have had to sacrifice the most and will carry the financial burden long into their futures from borrowed bonds lasting 60 years, it’s places that nurture them that I’m happy to raise in my mind. I’m reminded of a primary school in Llandudno with a head teacher who would determinedly find places for excluded children, even though they were over-capacity. The walls had the sentiments of Dr Seuss written tall: “You have brains in your head, you have feet in your shoes, you can steer yourself any direction you choose.” The head set up a sizeable egg business on the school grounds with different hen breeds, to teach children about caring for animals while giving them commercial nous, keeping the accounts for the eggs they sold. One boy who had previously been expelled from several schools was put in charge of managing the hens and, within a term, had become head boy. I remember the prodigious youth worker in Wiltshire who set up a charity to ensure young people who needed support still had somewhere to go, after councils stopped all youth services in 2015. Youth work matters so much to her that she only has time to fundraise in her evenings. One scheme allows young people to do conservation and other volunteering work in their communities in exchange for credits that can go towards outdoor activity weekends or driving lessons that they would otherwise never be able to afford. After a shooting incident in her garden when her son had become involved with gangs, a mother had moved her family to the countryside in desperation to keep them safe. Her son joined a scheme that trained him to become a tree surgeon. Part of his job involved mentoring people with learning difficulties at a wood workshop, making benches, tables and signs for nature reserves. The move transformed his life and they never looked back. At St James City Farm in Gloucester, urban kids benefit from interaction with animals. As I chatted to the lead mentor, who had a natural gift for finding ways for disadvantaged young people to rise, he waved to a man who walked past. “When he first came here, he was homeless and addicted to drugs,” he explained. “But he’s got a job, a wife and a baby now,” he smiled.

Watch Ellie on Countryfile, Sunday evenings on BBC One. www.countryfile.com

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