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GREAT WALKS

27 beautiful routes in 26 counties with OS maps to guide you COMPLETE GUIDE TO BUYING June 2021

WALKING LEGWEAR

The UK’s best-selling walking magazine

Escape the crowds and discover places you’ll want to keep to yourself!

Lake District peaks The secret castles of the Peak District Find strange hilltop art Views the masses miss Yorkshire’s quietest trail Strange goings-on in the Chilterns & beyond!

PLUS

SNOWDONIA WEEKEND BEYOND SKYE PENNY SMITH ON WALKING UK’S QUIETEST SPOTS YOUR 500-MILE SUMMER STUART MACONIE

3 This month I’ve been... 1 Meeting up with colleagues, in the ﬂesh, for the ﬁrst time in the longest time. We planned so many walks! 2 Enjoying the clarity with which Dr Phil Hammond (Private Eye’s MD) has throughout the pandemic hammered the good news home. 3 Dreaming of the Cheviot Hills – just one of many destinations to qualify for Hidden Britain status this summer.

ne of the great misapprehensions about walking is that it’s an antisocial hobby. And with all this talk of ‘getting away from it all’, of ‘escaping crowds’ and ‘glorious isolation’, I suppose we don’t exactly come out hard against it. But to contribute to company – indeed to society – you’ve got to have something to share, and it’s my contention that walking makes us much better contributors. The peace and the distance walking gives us isn’t from other people, so much as our own tight little ball of preoccupations. The perspective on our own problems and place in the world, the appreciation of what’s beautiful and precious in it, the propensity to be happier and more humble people, the recognition that the

things which are common to all of us are more important than the things which separate us – heck, even the readiness to laugh at crummy jokes; these are the gifts walking gives us which mean we don’t come empty-handed to the party. It would be fatuous to ask whether we feel closer to our fellow man out in the great wide open or packed into a tube train – but the fact remains that sociability isn’t always a factor of proximity. So while this issue is offered in a spirit of honeypot avoidance, it’s anything but people-hating. In fact the more people discovering the outdoors, whether it’s by school trip up Scafell Pike, with mum up Mam Tor, or in Reeboks on the Ridgeway, so much the blummin’ better.

Guy Procter, Editor

On the cover West Wycombe Hill in Buckinghamshire. Butter wouldn’t melt, would it? Hush-hush and Hellﬁre starts on page 70. PHOTO: TOM BAILEY

Talk to us! Share your pics, questions, have a natter – we love to hear from you: facebook.com/ countrywalking country.walking @lfto.com twitter.com/ countrywalking

PHOTO: SCALA RADIO

IN THIS ISSUE...

Penny Smith

James Forrest

Francis Dashwood

Rutland-raised Penny says walking makes her calm, and she likes nothing more than to skip and nibble her way round the countryside. Page 12

Who better than the man who has climbed 1001 British and Irish peaks to select us some lesser-known Lakeland hills for the holidays? Page 78

Fabulously debauched English rake and politician who went to extravagant lengths to throw memorable parties in the Chilterns. Page 90

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 3

PHOTO: DAVE PORTER/ALAMY-

CONTENTS JUNE 2021 Fancy a quiet walk in one of the busiest national parks?: Hidden Britain p34

FEATURES

Hidden Britain: Alport Castles Now more than ever it’s time to ﬁnd the quiet places of the nation.

COVER STORIES

Revealed: the quietest places Our exclusive Ordnance Survey map reveals the paths less travelled.

78 Little-walked Lake District 34 Secret castles of the Peak 76 Find strange hill-top art 62 Views the masses miss

40 42

Masterpieces in the mountain What a place to hide treasure!

Peaks second to none

70 Yorkshire’s quietest trail

Our second highest Three Peaks: all the quality, a fraction the footfall.

54 Strange goings on...

Right next to Scotland’s superstar island yet barely noticed...

Watch where you walk!

The mint on the moor

The unbeaten path Discover Yorkshire’s hidden gem.

Track down hidden artworks...

Walk where gold coins once ﬂowed.

Hard to pick out, wonderful to walk.

Meet the invisibles Hellﬁre in The Cheviots Debauchery, intrigue and you!

4 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

16 Snowdonia weekend 12 Penny Smith on walking

In the shadow of Skye

Crazy things happen in the country.

The real open air gallery Lake District: the outliers Delectable hills devoid of crowds.

“I don’t imagine the ‘Peelers’ had to be called when they opened the Titford Pumphouse...” STUART MACONIE p31

Who goes there? Not many, actually: Meet the invisibles p50

27 NEW ROUTES

Get out more this month! Step-by-step directions and Ordnance Survey maps for 27 walks all over the country. X TURN OVER FOR MORE…

REGULARS

The View

PLUS…

Presenter Penny Smith loves walking, and there’s a gamechanger of a smart watch out.

Special subscription offer

28 Where’s Kes? 85 In next month’s issue

Walking Weekend: Dinas Mawddwy

85 Contact Country Walking

The unassuming gateway to a wonderland of walking.

97 Classiﬁed directory

96 Quizzes and prize crossword

129 Our routes, your walks

Yes, you can walk up it: In the shadow of Skye p42

#walk1000miles

Your letters, emails & posts

130 Footnotes

Now’s the perfect time to start the challenge and join the happiest community in walking!

You lot are a constant joy to us. Keep telling us your tales!

Column: Stuart Maconie Confessions of a man who has fallen for... canalmania.

REVIEWS

90 Underground, overground: Hush-hush & hellﬁre p54

GET ALL THIS WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE PAGE 8

Legwear We don’t like the name but we sure as heck know the feeling of wearing just the right pair for the day and for you. Liberate your legs, people!

Swish swish: Legwear p90

THIS ISSUE WAS BROUGHT TO YOU BY… The realisation that not everyone has been waiting a year for a hug from you, ﬁckle weather, camping pods, wood-ﬁred pizzas, Jenny in Scotland, Nick in Spalding, Pip in Suffolk, Guy in spare room, the possibly ill-founded conviction that merino base layers almost never need washing, Frazzles. JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 5

Find a great walk near you!

CUT-OUT AND-KEEP ROUTES

OUR POCKET-SIZED ROUTE CARDS START ON PAGE 99

Highlights from the 27 fantastic walks in this issue… SOUTH WEST

SOUTH EAST

MIDLANDS

Wiveliscombe, Somerset

Mytchett, Surrey

Newark-on-Trent, Notts

Stride high above the Vale of Taunton across the Brendon Hills, looping back through a handsome market town. TURN TO WALK 1

Mosey through the sandy heaths and pine woods of Surrey, down to the tranquil towpath of a once busy canal. TURN TO WALK 5

Take a stroll through the streets, parks and on riverside paths around Newark’s siege-scarred historic quarter. TURN TO WALK 10

EAST

NORTH WEST

NORTH EAST

Nar Valley Way, Norfolk

Muncaster Fells, Cumbria

Washburn Valley, West Yorks

Trail the chalk-ﬁltered waters of the River Nar upstream from its conﬂuence with the Great Ouse in King’s Lynn. TURN TO WALK 13

Relish paths less trodden up one of the Lake District’s outlying fells for a ‘magniﬁcent, commanding panorama’. TURN TO WALK 17

Walk woods and green pastures around a chain of reservoirs in the Nidderdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. TURN TO WALK 19

WALES

SCOTLAND

CLASSIC

Knighton, Powys

The Wee Cut, Inverclyde

An Sgurr, Highland

Strike out south across the uncluttered Welsh Marches, following Offa’s Dyke Path between two characterful towns. TURN TO WALK 21

Seek out a perch high above the Firth of Clyde for a view soaring north to the peaks of the Southern Highlands. TURN TO WALK 24

Brave the waves over to the Isle of Eigg to scale a majestic ridge with one of the ﬁnest views on Scotland’s west coast. TURN TO WALK 27

6 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

EXCLUSIVE!

PHOTO: PAUL FRANCIS/ALAMY-

CW+ subscribers can watch our specially recorded chat with Penny online. For details of how to join CW+ see page 8.

PHOTO: DEREK CROUCHER/ALAMY-

PHOTO: JESSE KRAFT/ALAMY-

SPEN’S FRIENDS Clockwise from above left: The Galapagos Islands, a wood full of wild garlic, and the inspirational Fingal’s Cave on the island of Staffa. PHOTO: PENNY SMITH

of saying, ‘I’m as much a part of the universe as the trees and the stars, and this moment is mine’.” Entwined with her love of walking is her passion for classical music, and especially opera. So she has found a spiritual home on Scala Radio, which prides itself on being ‘come-as-you-are classical’. “Scala is great because it plays beautiful centuries-old music that people can still connect with, then a track from a video game that came out this month,” says Penny. “It doesn’t assume knowledge or over-explain. It’s just friendly.” And her two interests frequently collide, because countless composers have found inspiration in the natural world. One of Penny’s favourites is Mendelssohn’s Fingal’s Cave, which was inspired by the composer’s visit to the reallife cave on the Hebridean island of Staffa in 1829. “I’ve listened to it while I was at the cave, standing on those incredible basalt columns, with the sea echoing around, and you really can hear the sounds in the music. It’s magical,” she adds. “That said, you don’t always have to know where a piece of music came from for it to create a landscape for you. You can play the same piece of music to two people, and one might picture a Caribbean island, the other might picture an Arctic wasteland. Music is a ﬂight of fancy and it does you good. Bit like walking.” Penny still has a bucket list of walking destinations, including Mongolia, Kazakhstan and

WYUKON BOUND Penny trekking the Chilkoot Trail. “It was proper no-trace camping. That pack weighed as much as the planet.”

Antarctica (“I am desperate to go there and walk with penguins, even though I get frozen ﬁngers just holding a glass of champagne.”) But in the meantime, she’s contentedly enjoying the wilder places of Britain once again. “Walking still makes me calm, just like it used to. It’s like a pressure cooker, letting out the steam and going ‘ssssshhhhhhhh’,” she says. “It’s like that poem Desiderata says: ‘Go placidly amid the noise and haste, and remember what peace there may be in silence.’ That’s my favourite poem for a very good reason.” X You can hear Penny on Scala 4pm-7pm

weekdays; listen via DAB, app, smart speaker or at scalaradio.co.uk. Tune in on Wednesdays for the CW slot.

STAR WALKER:

PENNY SMITH

Born: 1958, Nottinghamshire Early career: Joined the Peterborough Evening Telegraph in 1977, working as a news reporter and feature writer; left four years later to go backpacking. Trekking and working: Several of Penny’s backpacking odysseys lasted over a year; her original trip lasted two-and-a-half. She would often get jobs while overseas to fund her onward journeys. (“I literally went round newspapers and radio stations going, ‘gizzajob, gizzajob’.”) Career highs: GMTV presenter (1993-2010), part of the Sky News launch team in 1989; panellist on Loose Women and Have I Got News for You. Penny’s radio work includes talkRADIO, BBC Radio London and Scala. Walking highs: The Galapagos Islands, volcanoes in Ecuador, golden eagles on the Chilkoot Trail in the Yukon (“my favourite memories always involve animals”), and leaping into a hot spring after hiking the Annapurna Circuit. She also loves the Lake District, the Peak District and anywhere with a hedgerow and/or something to eat.

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 13

PHOTOS: PENNY SMITH

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

PARADISE FOUND The Kone Khola valley, part of the classic Annapurna Circuit trek.

WHAT’S INCLUDED:

Country Walking

The UK’s best-selling walking magazine – you’ll get 13 issues, including over 350 route cards building into a complete library of walks all over the country, the latest #walk1000miles news and mini-challenges, all delivered before it’s in the shops.

Country Walking+ neck tube

Illustrated by our in-house master Steven Hall and featuring many beautifully-rendered highlights of the natural world, our stretchy, wicking, versatile neck tube keeps you warm and draught-proof in the cold, and cool in the warm and is lovely to wear. Not for sale anywhere else.

Hear from the Country Walking team, plus specially invited experts, in exclusive sessions where we’ll share our many years of experience, stories and advice. Plus enjoy unique competitions and exclusive member discounts with specially selected partners.

Half price subscription to OS Maps

Take out a CW subscription and you get 50% off an OS Maps Premium Membership with unlimited 1:50 000 and 1:25 000 mapping on your smartphone, PC and tablet and loads more features.

Special #walk1000miles badge

A unique golden, enamelled #walk1000miles participation badge not available anywhere else. Secured by a brooch fastener, it looks beautiful, never fades and marks you subtly out as not just a 1000-miler, but a Country Walking+ member.

LINES OPEN 8am-9.30pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-4pm (Sat) TERMS & CONDITIONS: Subscriptions start with next available issue. The minimum term is 13 issues. Recurring payments will continue to be taken unless you tell us otherwise. Offer closes 31/12/21, and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Cost from landlines for 01 numbers per minute are (approximate) 2p to 10p. Cost from mobiles per minute (approximate) 10p to 40p. Costs vary depending on location in the UK. You may get free calls to some numbers as part of your call package – check with phone provider. Lines open 8am-9.30pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-4pm (Sat). UK orders only. Overseas? Phone +44 1858 438828. Calls may be monitored or recorded for training purposes. For terms & conditions visit www.greatmagazines.co.uk/offer-terms-and-conditions

MAIN IMAGE: TOM BAILEY

Exclusive access and benefits

#WALK1000MILES UPDATE

Walkies 1000 miles! With so many of you taking on the challenge alongside loyal, N]V IЄMK\QWVI\M WN\MV KZIba NW]Z̆TMOOML NZQMVL[ _M \PW]OP\ _M¼L I[S \PM LWO[ \PMU[MT^M[ IJW]\ \PMQZ M`XMZQMVKM[ What are the things you enjoy the least? When I go the wrong way around a lamp post, my lead gets caught and I can’t work out which way to go. Bert, 8 (right) beagle from Shropshire (owner Tom Gibbs)

What’s the best* thing you’ve found? (*worst)

I don’t like frogs very much – one jumped on my nose when I was tiny. Rowan, 6, Border collie from Dornoch, Sutherland (owner Louisa Burnett)

I found a badger’s head the other week and mum didn’t notice I had it in my mouth until we got to the car. Hugo, 8 (right) German wirehaired pointer, South Wales (owner Celeste Batten)

Other dogs sniffing my bottom. Chelsea, 9 (right), bichon frise/Shih Tzu from Winslow, Buckinghamshire (owner Samantha Noury)

An unidentiﬁable object that made me poorly for two weeks. Holly, 7, Patterdale terrier from Whittlesey, Cambridgeshire (owner Ashleigh Hembrow)

Being moved out of the way of cars – they should move out of my way! Willow, 5, saluki from the Chilterns (owner Camilla Winlo)

A condom. Stan, 1, sprocker spaniel, Pembrokeshire (owner Ruth Stedman)

Slatted bridges! I walk like a gecko. Dessie, 10, Hungarian wire haired vizsla from Croxley Green, Hertfordshire (owner Heather Constance)

A sanitary towel. Spud, around 10, Staffordshire bull terrier from Derbyshire (owner Nelly Boo)

Does your dog deserve a medal? Well arise Sir Barkalot! Our collar-friendly golden medal comes complete with matching ring to attach it. Show how distinguished YOUR furry friend is – and thank them for teaching us the most important life lesson with its engraved motto: ‘Wag more, worry less’. (Also makes a great keyfob if you want a regular burst of purpose.) www.walk1000miles.co. uk/shop

20 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

Why does your owner love you do you think? She wouldn’t bother going for walks if she didn't have me. I’m her conﬁdence boost when her anxiety gets too much. Kayla, 6, Border collie from West Lothian (owner Natalie Ballard) I give equal pleasure and annoyance? Jamie, 6, cockapoo from Nottingham (owners Sharon and Jason Horsburgh) She says she couldn’t do it without me. Mollie, 8 (below) springer spaniel/ Border collie from Wiltshire (owner Lindsay Allen) I remind her to be in the moment, which brings inner peace. Tilly, 7, Jack Russell from Kent (owner Sue Gadsdon)

How has #walk1000miles changed your life? It’s meant I’ve been on even more adventures, which makes me so happy I can’t stop wagging. Bert Beaver, 8, beagle from Shropshire (owner Tom Gibbs) I’ve trimmed down & shaped up. Jess, 9, Jack Russell, North Wales (owner Sue Bryan) Brought me closer to my mum! Hugo, 8, German wirehaired pointer from South Wales (owner Celeste Batten) I’ve had ﬁve years of amazing walks. Phebee, 5 (right), Jack Russell from Redditch (owner Lorraine Eades)

SEEN YOU’VE WON?

#MINICHALLENGES

Email sara.mattick @bauermedia.co.uk your address and a pic of you holding this edition to claim your precious!

Your golden grid squares! We had so much to pack into this edition of the magazine we didn’t have room to give the winners of #minichallenges 16-20 the space they deserved. They’re all listed below but aW] KIV ÅVL \PMQZ N]TT _QVVQVO MV\ZQM[ I\ www.walk1000miles.co.uk/winnersjune21 #minichallenge19

Share your favourite grid square W Jane Hodgson’s favourite haven of peace is just off The Thames Path heading out from Pangbourne to Goring on Thames. ‘After getting your breath back from the climb it’s worth stopping a few minutes to breathe, refuel and embrace the ﬁne view of The Thames Path, and the North Wessex Downs’ X Lyn Gale’s is Bryher, one of the Isles of Scilly. ‘There are no major hills, and the whole island is 2km long by 1km wide, but the rugged landscape, stunning views, and seas that can have massive huge waves crashing against the shore one day or as calm as the Mediterranean in mid summer the next make it a unique and special place to walk.’

S Dave Huss shares a square of Dartmoor. ‘Outstanding scenery, history & rocks at Haytor and the granite tramway leading out onto more remote areas. Many memories of letterboxing.’

X Alan Newbold’s favourite square kilometre is in the Lake District and incorporates Loughrigg Tarn. With awesome views of the Langdale Valley dominated majestically by the distinctive proﬁle of the Langdale Pikes and its peaceful tranquility, disturbed only by the occasional bleating sheep or RAF jet ﬁghter, provides the perfect setting to be at one with nature.’

www.walk1000miles.co.uk

Do more on your miles & win treasure! Spice up your miles with one of our quests this month, post the result in the Facebook group and our favourite 20 #minichallenge completers will win a Golden Badge! You have until 24 June for this crop. Don’t forget you’ll need your copy of the mag to claim your prize if you win.

SEE SUNRISE ON THE LONGEST DAY

Be somewhere special to see the day in on 21 June. Dawn ranges from 4.05am in the far north of Scotland to 4.43 in London and 5.12 in Penzance. Share your pic and story!

#minichallenge26

SPOT A GLOW-WORM

Females are switching on the lights this month to attract a mate. Scarce in Scotland but widespread elsewhere, look for them in hedgebanks, along woodland rides, and in grassland in limestone areas.

LIE IN A MEADOW

Meadows are places species which get outcompeted elsewhere can thrive, where pollinating insects are in paradise and where courtship blossoms. Immerse yourself in one: www.bit.ly/ﬁndmeadows

#minichallenge27

#minichallenge28

BEAUTIFUL PLACE, UGLY FACE

There’s a beautiful view, then there’s you. Don’t be disappointed in the contrast – revel in it. We want a clash between the glory of the landscape and grimness of your gurn.

#minichallenge29

SKETCH THE VIEW

Whether you’re a budding Constable or a fumbling crayoneater, drawing helps you see more and cement your memories. Show us the view, and your doodled, drawn or painted version.

#minichallenge30

Other winners #minichallenge16 Louise Prime, Janine Saunders, Mary Johnson, Cynthia Parton #minichallenge17 Karl Brown, Glenna Waterhouse, Izabela Sześciło, Gillian Snelgar

#minichallenge18 Melanie Burton-Moss, Hazel Kerrison, Clare Pickford, Simon Morgan #minichallenge20 Caroline Bedford, Hilary Holmes, Elaine Cosgrove, Gwen Denison

BROUGHT TO YOU IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

22 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

How to enter Upload your evidence including the relevant hashtag in the #walk1000miles Facebook group by 24 June! New challenges next issue and every issue. Got an idea for a challenge? Email walk1000miles@countrywalking.co.uk

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We’ve got one of each of these packs to give away this month. For your chance to win one, head to www.walk1000 miles.co.uk/ summercomp

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JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 25

GEAR TEST

… SE E GLOW-WORMS

A high-spec GPS smartwatch for £139! Is it any good? (Clue: yes.)

14 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

… PHOTOGR APH BUTTE RFLIES Nothing shouts ‘summer’s here!’ more than seeing Meadow Browns, Large Skippers or Common Blues fluttering around downland. I love getting out early with my camera while they’re resting with wings open to warm up in the morning sun. Taking a decent butterfly photo can be tricky, so here are my tips: First, get as close as you dare, but don’t let your shadow fall on your subject. Movement is your biggest enemy, be it the butterfly itself, the swaying flowers, or your trembling camera, so freeze the action by increasing your ISO to 400 and use a fast shutter speed of around 1/800th second. Shoot in bursts to increase your chances of getting sharp shots. And while we’re getting technical, a wide aperture between f/3.5 and f/5.6 will blur the background, making your butterfly really stand out. Good luck! Rob Holmes, Senior Art Editor

. . . SE E FIE LD SCABIOUS My brain is like a whiteboard – I mark down the names of things I’ve seen, which I’ve identified and want to remember – but then something brushes up against it and next time I look the names are gone. But this beautiful wildflower is scratched on there, not least due to its incongruously ugly name, which comes from its traditional use as a treatment for scabies. It grows widely in well-drained chalky soils, verges and wasteland and it blooms for ages – June til October. I love its nottrying-too-hard boho style and the way it acts as an open-all-hours tiki bar for every pollinating insect. Any of the alternative names of gypsies’ rose, pincushion flower or blue cap would be better suited than scratchy ‘scabious’ – but then would I ever have remembered my favourite summer flower without it? Guy Procter, Editor

PHOTO: ISTOCK

For ages, I’ve had the feeling there isn’t a GPS smartwatch that does exactly what a walker wants it to do for less than £300: accurate tracking, cumulative mileage (useful for #walk1000miles), a quick and clear WALK option (rather than scrolling through a million other activities from cycling to tae kwon do), reliably long battery life, a face that can be customised to show only the data we’re interested in (eg miles, time, calories), and a straightforward app with faff-free sync. But it looks like Amazfit read my mind, because the new T-Rex Pro does all the above for one hundred and thirty-nine pounds. Good lord. It’s no cheap rip-off, either. Amazfit might lack the profile of Garmin, Suunto, Casio ot Huawei, but the T-Rex Pro easily competes with Garmin’s £500+ fenix range and Casio’s £380+ G-Shocks. GPS tracking is spot-on; it has never failed mid-walk or lost data. ‘WALK’ pops up instantly as a trackable activity, and you can customise the on-screen data down to three fields (duration, distance and heart rate) for simplicity. (Take note Garmin, because some of their cheaper smartwatches don’t even offer walking as a trackable option, bafflingly.) The buttons and touchscreen menus make sense and battery life is superb: even tracking a daily walk, some longer than six miles, it can go more than a week between charges. And while it initially feels flimsy at 59g, the T-Rex Pro has withstood heavy rain, cold mountain air and rocky scuffs while scrambling. Plus it’s waterproof to 100 metres, so you can swim with it too. It syncs instantly to a phone app called Zepp which stores your activities in a clear format so you can easily review what you’ve been up to, and logs cumulative miles for your activities (but not steps). I’ve found two drawbacks but neither is enough to be a real bother. Firstly, it won’t integrate with third-party apps (eg Strava and MapMyWalk), as some pricier watches will. But with Zepp doing the job it does, you don’t really need it to. And you can’t plot routes on the app and export them to the watch, which you can with Garmin. But how many of us are really following routes on our watches right now? Not that many, I suspect. You could also say its ‘lifestyle’ functions (message notifications, music control etc) aren’t as slick as they are on higher-priced rivals like the Garmin fenix 6. But its price and useability over-ride all of that. I cannot find another product that does everything we need, as reliably and intuitively as the T-Rex Pro does, for anything like this price. This is a game-changer. Nick Hallissey

PHOTO: NATURE PICTURE LIBRARY/ALAMY-

A T-Rex that really ROARS

The ﬁrst time I saw glow-worms was an accident. I’d walked to the next village for a drink and realised as I left the pub I’d forgotten my torch. Back through the darkening woods I went, lit only by the glow of a phone, when I saw a luminous dot of green shining beside the path. Then another, and another. It took me a moment to realise what it was. Glow-worms are small beetles, the female of which lights her tail-end up on midsummer nights to attract a mate. Flightless, she scurries to a high vantage point and a chemical reaction in her abdomen sets off the lightshow. Lampyris noctiluca are widespread in England and Wales, less so in Scotland, and easiest to spot on a warm, still night, lit by a crescent moon. Jenny Walters, Features Editor

SSSSSSHHH! This is

Now more than ever, we’re keen to find the quiet places of the nation. So welcome to CW’s tour of tucked-away treats, starting with the secret castles of the Peak District… WORDS: NICK HALLISSEY

34 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY

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Walking Weekend

DINAS MAWDDWY At a junction of deep green valleys in south-eastern Snowdonia, sits an unassuming village that’s the gateway to a multitude of fantastic and challenging hill walks.

PHOTO: PICTUREBANK/ALAMY

W O R D S : M AT T H E W P I K E

THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTH The waning light of a summer’s day washes over southern Snowdonia’s Dyﬁ Valley, seen from the high pass of Bwlch y Groes. Dinas Mawddwy nestles in the next fold of the valley.

OR THOSE TRAVELLING from the south or the east, Dinas Mawddwy is where the mountains of Snowdonia get serious. It’s where rocky summits start to burst out from the top of moorland plateaus, where roads begin to wind their way up to lofty passes with big-valley views – the whole landscape just gets bigger and more extravagant. Historically, it has always been a wild place. Back in the 16th century it was regarded as the most lawless place in Wales, with an infamous gang called Gwylliaid Cochion (The Red Bandits) terrorising those who dared to venture through. It later became the north terminus for the Mawddwy Railway, serving nearby slate mines and running passenger services, but this closed after ﬂooding destroyed a bridge in the early 1950s. Today, the village is modest considering its dramatic surroundings, with just a couple of pubs and cafés catering to tourists and in-the-know walkers who like to tackle the region’s plethora of great routes. Our ﬁrst walk is probably the best-known in the area – up the highest mountain in the Aran range, Aran Fawddwy. The drive to the small car park is impressive in itself, with the lofty, rocky Craig Cywarch on the eastern side of Glasgwm providing a striking and imposing backdrop. The second walk starts from Dinas Mawddwy village, taking you exhilaratingly close to the edge of Craig Maesglase where, if you have a good head for heights, you can sit on a narrow outcrop that juts out from the main rock face, overlooking numerous valleys and peaks, plus a waterfall below.

The word is…

For an epic drive while in the area, head up Bwlch y Groes (AKA Hellﬁre Pass). This is the minor road heading north-east through Llanymawddwy and rises to become the second highest pass in Wales. There’s a great lookout at the highest point, plus a lovely downvalley view just after a turnoff to Lake Vyrnwy.

PHOTO: GEOGRAPH/ROBIN DRAYTON

You’ll miss it unless you know it’s there, but just off the A470 in Dinas Mawddwy, there’s a pretty two-arched stone bridge covered in moss that runs over the Afon Dyﬁ. Pont Minllyn was built in the early 1600s for packhorses. To see it, turn in towards Meirion Mill.

Tuck into some hearty pub grub at The Buckley Arms (01650 531261, thebuckleyarms.co.uk), just off the A470 and close to Pont Minllyn. Apparently it’s the oldest building in Europe constructed from reinforced concrete. They also have en-suite rooms.

For more accommodation and the latest travel advice, head to www. visitsnowdonia.info or call the Aberdyﬁ Information Centre: 01654 767321

XNOW DO THE WALKS! Turn to the back of the magazine and look for Routes 22 & 23 for OS maps and turnby-turn walk directions.

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 17

Walk

0 0 10 miles

BROUGHT TO YOU IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

2.74 x 365 = walk1000miles.co.uk START YOUR 500-MILE SUMMER TODAY

Meet the milestoners!

Turn to the inside back cover!

It’s amazing what you can do when you put one foot in front of the other!

ODAY IS ALWAYS the perfect time to start #walk1000miles – but perhaps never more so than the launch of our 500-Mile Summer campaign. If you start 1 June and ﬁnish on the last day of summer (22 Sept) it’s an average of 4.4 miles a day. If you give yourself from 1 May to the end of the year it’s a daily target of 2.34 miles each day. And look what an incredible difference walking makes whatever milestone you’re at! You can start your challenge right now by downloading your progress tracker charts from www.walk1000miles.co.uk/ 500milesummer and there are instant calculators to tell you how many daily miles you need on average to hit your 500 depending on your targeted end date. There are gorgeous medals for 500-, 1000-, 1500- and 2000-miles too and you can sign up free at www.walk1000miles.co.uk/signup

18 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

300

‘I’m terrible at sticking to things!’ Laura Walker, 37, West Yorkshire ‘I’m usually terrible at sticking to things but I’m thoroughly enjoying this. We go walking every weekend now and my little ones just keep impressing me with their miles! I celebrated with a pair of walking shorts (look what I have become ha ha!) and we have a long list of walks we’re looking forward to get to 400. ‘Doing this challenge has forced me out for some fresh air, a change of scenery and exercise even on the days I don’t feel like it and it feels amazing. I’m deﬁnitely ﬁtter, and it’s helped my mental health no end.’ What three words sum it up? It’s a blast!

‘An AMAZING difference’

600

Penny Holroyd, 59, West Sussex ‘I’ve gone from thinking three miles on the flat was a long way, to conquering my fear of hill walking and now I do regular 10+ mile walks. I never thought that walking was enough to keep you fit and healthy. But I’ve lost weight, I’m more confident and I’ve walked the South Downs Way. What an AMAZING difference!’ Three words to sum it up? Inspiring, motivating, rewarding

‘Rediscovered the joy’

500

Nick Kiley, 49, Derbyshire ‘I’ve lost weight, got healthier, feel more positive about myself and rediscovered the joy of walking. I’m celebrating with a #walk1000miles baselayer T-shirt!’ What three words? Joy, fulﬁlling, worthwhile

‘An instantly better mindset’

700

Laura Law, 45, Portsmouth ‘The loneliness of covid made me start this challenge. Working in a nursing home, followed by Netﬂix and eating just wasn’t doing me any good. I needed something else to focus my mind on, something for me. Now I always start my days off with a walk, whether it’s ﬁve miles or just a walk around the block and it instantly puts me in a better mindset and ready to face the day. I’ve lost a stone in weight and feel much happier and more positive. I can’t quite believe I hit 700 miles on 1st May! My plan is to go on more adventures and I’m excited to see where the rest of my miles take me.’ What three words sum it up? Inspiring, adventurous and limitless

400

‘I’m fitter than ever’ Keith Walker, 61, Scottish Highlands ‘I was recovering from major surgery and wanted something which would encourage me to get out and walk on those days when the motivation was lacking. Now at 61 I’m ﬁtter than I’ve been at any time in my adult life, and three stone lighter too! It’s lifted me when I’ve been down and it’s taken me to places I never would have found. I celebrated my 400 with a walk to one of the most magical places in the Highlands (and there’s a lot of competition for that accolade) – Redpoint Beach. It’s one of those places where the fabric of the world seems thinner and the heavens seem to be only just out of reach.‘ What three words sum it up? Inspiring, joyful, motivational

750

‘It’s life-changing!’ Eddie Winder, 60, Nottinghamshire ‘A double heart bypass ﬁve years ago made me seriously think about priorities. I wanted to lose weight, get ﬁtter and live more and with #walk1000miles I’m exceeding all expectations. And I sleep like a baby which I haven’t been able to do for years. Shows what’s possible with a little effort and determination. Could never have imagined walking so far in a year!’ What three words sum it up? Life changing achievement

‘I found a purpose’

300

Felicity Haines, 33, West Mids ‘I needed a purpose after some heartbreaking news last year and I found it. I’ve walked more in three months than I did in the whole of 2020! It’s my ‘thinking time’ now, and having this allocated window to cry and ponder and whatnot, I manage my grief better. The ﬁrst 100 miles felt easy, the 200 a bit harder and the 300 felt harder still! As a thank you to my trusty feet for getting me to mile 300, I got a professional pedicure as a treat. Services had just re-opened, so it was good timing!’ What three words sum it up? Non-competitive and welcoming

400

‘Loving the person it’s making me’ Judith Lane, 50, Buckinghamshire ‘I was more a mum than my own person. 400 miles later, I’m loving the person it’s making me. I’ve got self-belief, stamina, conﬁdence and I’m much calmer. I can’t believe how just by going out on a walk each day my well-being has improved and my teen daughters can see how you have to look out for ‘you’. And it all happened one walk at a time.’ What three words sum it up? Energising, exciting, addictive! JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 19

The Other Cuillin Skye isn’t the only Scottish island with a range of fang-tastic mountains called the Cuillin. Away to the south, and big in the view from Skye, the peaks of the Rùm Cuillin pierce the waves like the ﬁns of circling sharks, the remains of a supervolcano that may once have been 10,000 feet high. 60 million years of wind, rain and ice have worn it down below 3000 feet, while chiselling the island’s 40 square miles into a thrilling spectacle – or what geologist John MacCulloch writing in 1824 described as a ‘heap of rude mountains, scarcely possessing an acre of level land’. Barkeval, Hallival, Trollabhal, Ainshval and the highest peak of Askival (2664ft/812m) all sound like brutish characters in a Viking saga, and the gnarly names suit. While doing the full traverse of this Cuillin doesn’t involve ropes like its big brother on Skye, it’s plenty steep and airy with hands-on-rock sections. Ticking off Hallival and Barkeval, the two tops nearest the island’s port and only village

44 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

at Kinloch, is a slightly more straightforward challenge, but if you’d rather goggle at those precipitous angles than scramble up them, a good track leads across the heart of the island to the small bay at Harris, a route through the wilderness that incongruously ends at a Greek-style temple. This is the mausoleum of the Bullough family who bought the island in 1888 and later added an ‘h’ to make the name Rhum, convinced that being the Lairds of Rùm sounded a bit debauched. It’s almost eight miles each way across the island so you might want to bring a tent and wild camp before returning next day, with optional glenhugging detours out to Kilmory Bay or the bothy at Guirdil. And do look for red deer, which outnumber Rùm’s residents 40 to 1. WALK HERE: Find routes at walkhighlands.co.uk/islands/isle-of-rum.shtml MORE INFO: See calmac.co.uk for ferries to both islands, and isleofrum.com

T THE BIG SMALL ISLE

The peaks of Rùm seen from Eigg, two of the four islands that make up the Small Isles archipelago. Rùm is the largest, and home to just 22 people (and 900 red deer). PHOTO: TOM BAILEY

X FORTRESS

CLIFF

There is a way for mere mortals to climb An Sgùrr, also known as the Sgurr of Eigg – and it’s incredible. PHOTO: VINCENT LOWE/ALAMY-

Get m edals & more at: How did you most embarrass your owner on a walk?

www.walk1000miles.co.uk/shop

What do you most enjoy doing on your walks?

I greet people by punching them in the stomach. Bree, 2 (right), Border collie from Forest of Dean (owner Penny Draper)

Rolling in horse poo. Mylo, 4, whippet from Newmarket, Suffolk (owner Denise Pont)

I walked into an old lady. I’ve never heard my human apologise so! Jazzminium, 11 (right), lurcher from Bucks (owner Michaela Davies)

Climbing up rocks with my mum and bouncing to trig points on some of our big hills! Rowan, 6, Border collie from Dornoch, Sutherland (owner Louisa Burnett)

A case of diarrhoea in the middle of a tourist-packed road. In a valiant but futile effort to clear up, we used most of our drink to try and wash it towards a drain. Tui, about 5, lurcher from Powys (owner Lauren Baker) Lapping up runny fox poo in front of an audience. Tilly, 7, Parson Jack Russell from Kent (owner Sue Gadsdon) Joining a beach football match, and bursting the ball. Blue, 4, Border collie from Pembrokeshire (owner Caroline Gardner) I piddled on a chap’s shoe once when my owner was talking to him. Reika, 9, Shih Tzu/terrier from Worcester (owner Clare Pickford)

Hiding badly and ambushing. Murphy, 5, cockapoo from Herts (owner Karen Porter)

Getting messy just after I’ve had a bath. Bailey, 9 months, cockapoo from Tamworth, Staffordshire (owner Suzanne Carter)

INSPIRATION

Third time lucky! Back problems, depression and agoraphobia have twice prevented 33-year-old Clair Cohen from Kent from reaching her 1000 miles. But she’s determined this is the year is third time lucky with the challenge that has helped her through the lowest moments. ‘Five years ago, thanks to back problems I struggled to walk more than 20 feet without collapsing. It affected my mental health enormously and I developed a fear of leaving my home alone. So three years ago I signed up to try and an tackle the lot. But I haven’t completed it yet! This year, I’m determined. By the end of January, I’d only walked 22 miles and was feeling defeated, but then I set myself small targets and gradually built up, walking 30 in February and 90 in March. The turning point was walking a half marathon. Once I knew my body could cope, it boosted me hugely. But life is like a rollercoaster: you’ve just got to ﬁnd a way to keep holding on and you’ll get through it. For me, that’s setting myself small goals and being part of an inspiring and supportive community. On the days I achieve what I want I celebrate, and on the days I don’t, I show myself compassion and know I can always try again.’ Superb determination Clair!

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 21

SEEN YOU’VE WON?

#MINICHALLENGES

Email sara.mattick @bauermedia.co.uk your address and a pic of you holding this edition to claim your precious!

S Dave Huss shares a square of Dartmoor. ‘Outstanding scenery, history & rocks at Haytor and the granite tramway leading out onto more remote areas. Many memories of letterboxing.’

www.walk1000miles.co.uk

SEE SUNRISE ON THE LONGEST DAY

Be somewhere special to see the day in on 21 June. Dawn ranges from 4.05am in the far north of Scotland to 4.43 in London and 5.12 in Penzance. Share your pic and story!

#minichallenge26

SPOT A GLOW-WORM

Females are switching on the lights this month to attract a mate. Scarce in Scotland but widespread elsewhere, look for them in hedgebanks, along woodland rides, and in grassland in limestone areas.

LIE IN A MEADOW

Meadows are places species which get outcompeted elsewhere can thrive, where pollinating insects are in paradise and where courtship blossoms. Immerse yourself in one: www.bit.ly/ﬁndmeadows

#minichallenge27

#minichallenge28

BEAUTIFUL PLACE, UGLY FACE

There’s a beautiful view, then there’s you. Don’t be disappointed in the contrast – revel in it. We want a clash between the glory of the landscape and grimness of your gurn.

#minichallenge29

SKETCH THE VIEW

Whether you’re a budding Constable or a fumbling crayoneater, drawing helps you see more and cement your memories. Show us the view, and your doodled, drawn or painted version.

#minichallenge30

Other winners #minichallenge16 Louise Prime, Janine Saunders, Mary Johnson, Cynthia Parton #minichallenge17 Karl Brown, Glenna Waterhouse, Izabela Sześciło, Gillian Snelgar

#minichallenge18 Melanie Burton-Moss, Hazel Kerrison, Clare Pickford, Simon Morgan #minichallenge20 Caroline Bedford, Hilary Holmes, Elaine Cosgrove, Gwen Denison

BROUGHT TO YOU IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

22 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

#WALK1000MILES PARTNER FOCUS

Get yourself summer-walking ready with one of these great packs from Deuter.

UMMER’S ON THE horizon which means longer days, longer walks and higher temperatures – but still the need to take all your essentials with you for a day on the hill or that longed-for al fresco lunch by the river miles from anywhere. After more than a year of staying at home this summer is set to be a busy one. With old friends to reconnect with and a year of adventures to catch up on, hopefully your #walk1000miles campaign will be turbocharged! And whatever your load to carry or the conditions, our rucksack partner Deuter is ready to help you get back

out there feeling fantastic. Founded in 1898 in Germany by Hans Deuter, the ﬁrm has been making great quality outdoor products ever since. Combining German quality in design and manufacturing with great modern style, it’s an industry leader famous for thinking of everything, and building performance, durability, style and comfort into every pack. No matter what your plans this summer, or the scale of your ambitions, there’s a Deuter pack for you. Let’s go! www.deutergb.co.uk

Speed Lite (From £40)

AC Lite (From £70)

Futura (From £100)

Athletic to the very last detail, the Speed Lite is a pack for those walkers who like to travel light. A fast and light pack which is great for day hikes and can also be equally used during other activities as well. The Lite backsystem which the Speed Lite uses is great for carrying light to medium loads and although lightweight, durability and comfort haven’t been compromised. There are also some great little handy features such as a sunglasses loop holder on the shoulder straps for cloudier days when you need to stash your shades.

The new AC Lite is the ideal companion for day hikes – and it’s now even lighter. Thanks to its Aircomfort carry system, it also has highly effective ventilation for those long, hot summer walks. There are also two different loading options within the collection to suit your needs: choose from front zip loading or a traditional lid opening. Both allow great easy access to kit, while smaller items such as your phone or energy bars can be stashed in the easy-access stretch side pockets. Available in extra-long (EL) and women’s speciﬁc sizes (SL).

An icon in the collection, the Futura is a lightweight, technical backpack perfect for more athletic day hikes: The Aircomfort back system is extremely comfortable and the newstyle mesh creates maximum airflow across the back. The result is 25% less perspiration and consequently, increased performance – great for when those summer temperatures soar. The stretch mesh front pocket is perfect for airing wet clothes on the move. While the supportive hip belt and shoulder straps ensure the fit is snug and comfortable at all times. Available in extra-long (EL) and women’s specific sizes (SL).

24 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

DISCOVER The Invisibles

The Cheviots

PHOTO: LOOP IMAGES LTD/ALAMY-

The Cheviots straddle Northumberland and the Scottish Borders but in a custody battle would undoubtedly assert their right to be emancipated from both parents. This is independent country, presided over by the mighty Cheviot itself (815m/2674ft), the ﬁnal challenge on the Pennine Way and one which marks an abrupt change of atmosphere from the rest of the Pennines. Gone the sometimes indeterminate moors or endless forests of recent memory, hello to a whole lot of plump hills and lovely, rather lonely valleys that crave the favour of your attention (it’s been such a long time since the last handsome Roman passed this way). WALK HERE: Download The Cheviot at walk1000miles.co.uk/bonusroutes

Southern Uplands

WALK HERE: Download The Merrick from walk1000miles.co.uk/bonusroutes

PHOTO: ANDY SUTTON/ALAMY-

A 140-mile range of hills that would struggle to stand out in an identity parade, the southernmost wall of Scottish high ground is nevertheless austere, wild and stirring. Yoking together what are separately known as the Galloway-, Lowther-, Moffat-, Ettrick-, Border- and Lammermuir Hills, the Southern Uplands run from Irish Sea to the North Sea – hundreds of remote and wild hills traversed by Britain’s ﬁrst official coast to coast trail, the 212mile Southern Upland Way. The highest point is The Merrick – at 841m/2766ft a headswimming viewpoint but just one of many occasions when the Southern Uplands will remind you this is not a small island, but a vast continent of adventure.

PHOTO: TOM BAILEY

WRITE TO US AT: Country Walking, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough PE2 6EA

EMAIL: country.walking@lfto.com

FACEBOOK: facebook.com/countrywalking

TWITTER: twitter.com/countrywalking

LETTER OF THE MONTH

First ascent I loved reading Jenny Walters’ article about her first Munro – Ben Lomond. It took me right back to my childhood living in Balloch at the foot of Loch Lomond and waking up in the winter months to see The Ben from my bedroom window covered in snow, a sight which was forever mesmerizing for its sheer beauty. It was also my first Munro at the age of 8 back in 1962 after my father (Jack) had announced that we were going to scale its heights. We set off on a cool but bright morning, my father, my two brothers and me by car to drive the 19 miles to Rowardennan. Whether it was nerves, travel sickness or the sight of an E Type jaguar lying on its roof in a field, having driven through a wall and rolled over and over just short of Gartocharn, I don’t know, but shortly after we had to stop so I could be sick at the side of the road. Undeterred, we followed the same route up as Jenny described. As we reached the summit push the clouds surrounded us and the pressing quiet and peacefulness which that brings was a first experience never to be forgotten. The old grainy photo attached was taken with a Brownie 127 and developed in our coal shed. After a quick snack we descended

Watch your step

by the Ptarmigan route which proved more perilous than the ascent. Eric dislodged a large stone which accelerated down the very steep slope and missed David’s head by a whisker. That surely was a lesson for life that descent is practically always more difficult and dangerous than ascent. We arrived back at Rowardennan safe and thrilled to have reached the top of our ﬁrst Munro. Since then I have scaled many more mountains and trained as a mountain leader. I haven’t become a Munro bagger, but that ﬁrst experience ingrained in me a love for the mountains and the ever-present thought when I see one – “I wonder what the view is like from the top?”.

I was watching an episode of Midsomer Murders when to my surprise, while DCI Barnaby was in the Post Office in the village of Great Pelfe, I happened to notice that they stock Country Walking. This episode was ﬁrst shown in 2011, I wonder if anyone can identify the issue? It looks like it says ‘South Downs’ on the cover. I wouldn’t go walking there though, it’s a dangerous place! Best wishes and thanks for a great magazine, it’s been such a godsend during lockdown. Malcolm Britton, Worcestershire

John Streeter, Bradford on Avon

A BERGHAUS WATERPROOF JACKET FOR JOHN! The letter of the month wins a Berghaus waterproof jacket worth (£225). The Cornice (men’s) and Glissade (women’s) jackets have been ﬁrm favourites with walkers for decades, are superb quality and always score highly in Country Walking gear tests. www.berghaus.com.

Walking by the moon I just had to send in this moon picture I took. I know we all say about walking on the moon, which will never happen, but walking is not all about daytime walking. Having a stroll when it’s dark and there’s a full moon, gives everything a whole new look – give it a try. Jane Bell, Email 26 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

That clears it up I climbed The Wrekin (Route 09, May 2021) and its a walk I can recommend. You are unlikely to get lost on the ‘motorway’ path, but if you do there is a helpful signpost by Halfway House. Geoff Wicks, Email

Rest in pieces

) NIUQTa IЄIQZ We’re a family of five (children currently 13, 11 and 9) and back in 2013, when our youngest was just two, we climbed one of our local hills (The Wrekin) for the first time. This was to be the start of our ‘Shropshire Marilyns Challenge’ that we decided to set ourselves. There are 10 Marilyns [hills with at least 150m prominence from any neighbours] in Shropshire, and we completed our challenge last October, climbing two peaks on the same day – Cefn Gunthly and our final Heath Mynd (see our summit selfie pic!). Our new challenge is to complete the entire Shropshire Way together, albeit in sections! We’re very blessed to live in such a beautiful county and we’ve loved getting outside and enjoying the countryside together. Now we’re allowed further afield, we’re hoping to try some of the route cards from your magazine (we are fairly new subscribers) as we’ve all seen ones we’d like to try! Samantha Kimber, Shropshire

Your Lyke Wake article brought back some great memories. My first crossing, aged 17, was with my Dad’s walking group in June 1975. In fact, I must have been the ‘1’ in the 3141 who you say finished the walk that month! You’re right this was the ‘go-to’ challenge walk of the 1970s. We started at 8pm, walked through the night, and finished the following afternoon. The weather was awful. Rain and hill fog all the way to Lilla Cross. But the sense of achievement was huge. Once the pain had subsided, I couldn’t wait to do it again. Our family returned twice that summer and did two dawn-til-dusk crossings in fabulous weather. In 1991, I led another group on a night crossing. I still have my 1970s OS North York Moors One Inch Tourist Map, the best there was at the time. The route was marked, but just the words ‘Lyke Wake Walk’ at intervals across a huge moorland, sometimes followed by the word ‘Undefined’. As today, there were very few waymarkers. Just occasional home-made ones, such as ‘LWW’ laid out in stones on the ground. I still have my condolence cards from the original Lyke Wake Club, and my rucksack badge, pin badge and coffin-motif tie. I admit to having hardly worn the tie. Somehow I could never quite find the right occasion.... David Bell, Newcastle upon Tyne

Happy days here again We’re in the Lake District again! And after a fab day on Wetherlam (Route 27 of Feb 2021 issue) we’ve had a post-walk pint in a pub courtyard. Simple, unremarkable pleasures, but after the year we’ve all had, how we’ve missed them. Lockdown in the Thames Valley is no preparation for those close contour lines, but the day was fantastically clear and we had stunning views of the Northern Fells, across to the Pennines and Yorkshire Peaks, and down to the North Wales coast. Those we met shared the same joy at being back in the hills. Happy days. Thanks to CW for keeping the dreams alive. Alice Parker Oxfordshire

;KMV\ NZWU PMI^MV I was so pleased to see your article on bluebells and their smell. More and more Spanish bluebells are taking over and it’s very difficult to ﬁnd our native ones. Like most people I speak to, the National Trust don’t see the problem, probably because now few people have experienced the exquisite smell of a bluebell wood. As a child in the 1950s my mother took us every year for a picnic at bluebell time in a little wood near Grimston in Leicestershire. The smell of the bluebells was always there under the trees whether it was cold and damp or hot and dry. It was such a treat. So it was a great surprise to read your article and to ﬁnd someone who actually knows the beautiful perfume and joy of walking in a bluebell wood. I hope bluebells are not like the red squirrel, receding further and further to the north. Christine Marriott, Email JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 27

WHERE’S KES? Every month our favourite spaniel Kes goes walkies somewhere in the issue, and we want him back! Can you PMTX ÅVL 3M['

Fell walking On a recent walk near Spexhall Church in Suffolk, I came across this tree stump /graffiti which amused me. Always does seem a shame when a tree is felled but guess there was a reason for it! Keep up the good work... Bill Gerrish, Email

Kes the conkercolour Cocker is an inveterate explorer, often ﬁnding his way into the unlikeliest of places when we’re busy putting the magazine together. In fact he’s hiding out in this issue for you to ﬁnd! Spot him (not on this page) and you could win over £45 worth of Lifeventure goodies – just email the page number where you found Kes to: ifoundkes@LFTO.com by 24 June, 2021 putting ‘Kes June’ in the subject line. And congratulations to Alison Graham from Northumberland who spotted Kes exploring Ben Lomond on page 40 of the April issue, and wins this month’s prize!

Keep your head up Tom Bailey will never convince me to walk off-path. Give me a well-defined, clearly way-marked path all the time. To me, the main pleasure of a walk is to take in the surroundings, the views and to be able to stride confidently, knowing I am unlikely to get lost, so I can get my head up and look about. Look again at the five photographs featuring Mr. Bailey in his article. In every one his head is down, looking at where he’s placing his feet or studying his map. If your head is always looking down, one tuft of grass is much the same as another, no matter where you are. Ian Beaumont, Heswall

The diceman Your story about dice walks reminded me of childhood holidays. Three children and mum would pack up the tent and all our stuff ready for when dad came home from work. We’d all pile into the car and at the end of the street dad would say “Left or right?” After many junctions, calls of “left or right?” and shouts from the back seat, we’d arrive in some wild and wonderful places. Places from Cornwall to the Scottish Highlands and everywhere in between. Places which instilled in me a love for the great British countryside and walking. Looking back I’m sure our parents knew exactly where we were going, although dad once had to ask a farmer if we could pitch in his ﬁeld as we’d arrived too late for the ferry to Skye. But as children we truly believed we were making those left or right decisions – an adventure to who knew where. I think some dice walks might be in my plans this year. Jan Snape, Warrington

28 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

GREAT PRIZES WORTH OVER £47

Soul music What joy to have had a memorable week of great peaks climbed in the breathtaking scenery of the Lake District, enhanced by welcome spring sunshine, hence some pretty impressive views! We conquered two classic CW routes, the ﬁrst from October 2017, Stonycroft Gill ascending Causey Pike and Scar Crags, the second from April 2021, the Mosedale Horseshoe ascending Pillar, Scoat Fell and Red Pike. Both walks encompassing a plethora of whaleback summits, exciting rocky scrambles, vast lake views, crystal clear meandering becks, and a silence and solitude, peppered only by the song of the skylark, a sound that reaches the very inner soul. Sandra English, County Durham

HIDDEN IN THE UNDERWOOD Among the bracken and scrub of Naphill Common are ponds and overgrown oak pollards that tell of times gone by when livestock grazed here.

DISCOVER The Chiltern Hills

THE WOOD WIDE WEB

Green and serene, it’s the “ last place you’d expect to share a grid square with a subterranean hub of high stakes military operations.

”

What won’t be obvious to anyone casually browsing an Ordnance Survey map of the area are the pockets of chalk grassland cradled below. Nationally scarce, these kaleidoscopic flower meadows are as worthy of protection as any military secret. Poor in nutrients and quick to drain, the thin, calcareous soils allow plants like the lemony bird’s-foot-trefoil and pink blooms of scabious to flourish. Among the herbs and grasses, bee and fly orchids add to the June-time carnival of colour, attracting scores of insects and butterflies, like the small blue and Duke of Burgundy. From these woodland margins, the land sweeps down to Bradenham’s impossibly quaint village green, situated in the broad, dry valley cleaving south from Saunderton. It’s a scene straight from a sentimental greetings card you might buy for a grandparent. A Norman church, Jacobean manor house and a row of flint-faced cottages are picturesquely clustered around the sloping cricket pitch – just as it was when the National Trust acquired the whole village back in 1956. Behind the pavilion, woodland paths sidle their way across the wavy sides of the valley and back to West Wycombe. By and large the Chilterns live up to blissfully uneventful expectations. If you come for their timeless qualities, you won’t leave disappointed. But occasionally a walk in these pleated chalk hills will throw up something extraordinary and unexpected. You never know what’s under your feet.

PHOTO: KUMAR SRISKANDAN/ALAMY-

There’s more going on under the beechwoods of the Chilterns besides aristocratic pleasure caves and military bunkers. In these chalk hills, and in woods around the world, the trees are talking to each other. Far from being solitary souls, they’re bickering, cooperating and exchanging nutrients through a complex symbiotic network of roots and mycorrhizal fungi beneath our feet. First described by American ecologist Suzanne Simard in the nineties, and mapped for the ﬁrst time in 2019, it’s being called the ‘wood wide web’. Akin to a nervous system for forests, this subterranean internet of life could be key to understanding the impacts of climate change. According to German forester Peter Wohlleben, beech trees – widely seen in the Chiltern Hills – are tribalistic bullies, crowding out their rivals. Yet among family they’re remarkably devoted, feeding the stumps of their long-dead ‘mother trees’. READ ON: Peter Wohlleben’s The Hidden Life of Trees is published by HarperCollins (£10). We also recommend dipping into Entangled Life by mycologist Merlin Sheldrake (£20, Vintage).

Plan your trip WALK HERE Turn to Walk 6 at the back of this magazine for a 9¾-mile route from West Wycombe to Hughenden Manor and through the woods to Walter’s Ash.

hellﬁrecaves. co.uk or call 01494 533739 for more information).

WHERE TO EAT GETTING THERE From London, West Wycombe is a 10-minute drive from junction 4 of the M40, via the A4010 and A40. Turn off at junction 5 if you’re travelling from Oxford. There’s a car park off Chorley Road. It’s a breeze to get to by public transport too, with frequent buses from High Wycombe and further aﬁeld (see Walk 6), including the number 130 from Aylesbury (redlinebuses. com), which stops close to nearby Saunderton Station on the Chiltern Main Line (chilternrailways.co.uk).

GETTING IN Both Hughenden Manor and the grounds of West Wycombe Park are National Trust properties, with adult entry costing £8 and £5 respectively (free for members). Covid-restricted entry currently applies and all visits must be prebooked (see nationaltrust.org.uk for details). The Hellﬁre Caves remain closed until all restrictions are lifted, though the courtyard café has reopened. Adult admission is normally £8.50 for adults (see

You could save your appetite for a slap-up lunch in the garden of the George & Dragon Hotel back in West Wycombe, where ‘gourmet small plates’ start from £6 (01494 535340; georgeanddragonhotel. co.uk). Two miles into the walk at Downley Common, there’s heartier fare to be had at The Le De Spencers Arms (01494 535317; ledespencers.co.uk). From Thursday to Sunday, you could tuck into a cream tea at the Red Lion Tea Room in Bradenham (£3.50, with clotted cream and jam); that is if you’ve not already ﬁlled up on coffee and cake at Hughenden Manor’s café.

WHERE TO STAY A chic en-suite room at the George & Dragon Hotel costs from £70 per night. For a cheaper night under canvas instead, try Home Farm Camping & Caravanning Park up the road in ravishing Radnage, where pitches start from £15 (01494 484136; homefarmradnage.co.uk). Find more options in the Chilterns at visitbuckinghamshire.org

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 59

So very beautiful and so inexplicably quiet: Galloway is best admired from the Merrick* in the high, tussocky peaks known as the Range of the Awful Hand, although you’ll ﬁnd even quieter walks in the gentler hills just to the west. In fact, this entire latitude of Britain tends to be overlooked – including lovely Loch Skeen* in the Moffat Hills and gorgeous Northumberland National Park out to the east.

GALLOWAY

 MORE ROUTES

 LESS ROUTES

SEE MORE: Zoom in and take a close-up look around the map at walk1000miles.co.uk/OSquietmap

WHERE DON’T PEOPLE GO? That is the question we posed to Ordnance Survey and this map was their answer. It plots all the walking routes saved into their mapping app: the darker the lines, the busier a place is – so the treasure here lies in the pale areas where nobody seems to tread. We asked for data from 2019 before the pandemic and lockdowns changed everything: this shows where we walk – and don’t walk – when we’re free to go anywhere, as we hope we can this summer. The yellow tint marks the national parks and it’s clear how much we love to walk them, but there’s plenty of space to ﬁnd yourself deliciously alone from the Highlands of Scotland to Pembrokeshire to Devon and even down in busy Kent.

If finding quiet routes is your quest this summer, then this is your treasure map, created for you by Ordnance Survey.

The paths less travelled

It’s probably no surprise that Britain’s harder-to-reach extremities are pretty quiet. Find far-ﬂung peace on Ronas Hill*, the summit of the Shetland Isles; at the Orkney Isles’ Old Man of Hoy*; and walking the remote sands of Huisinis* out west on the Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides.

NORTHERN ISLES

SSSSSSHHH! This is

34 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY

DISCOVER Alport Castles

OU’VE PROBABLY NOTICED it’s a bit busy out there. After the year we’ve had, it’s understandable that everyone is keen to go back to the beautiful places of the country. And don’t get us wrong: it’s wonderful that people want to be outside in great scenery, especially if they’re among the countless thousands who discovered the joy of walking during lockdown and are eager to see more of what’s beyond their local boundaries now that we can do so. But when everyone’s doing it at the same time, in the most famous places, in the warmest weather, on the longest days of the year, it can be a little overwhelming. That’s why we decided to seek out Hidden Britain: the secret, strange, offbeat places where you’ve got the best chance of getting the landscape to yourself. To prove that such places exist everywhere, we’ve kicked off our tour in one of Britain’s busiest national parks. The Peak District is surrounded by vast metropolitan

areas, and on most days its honeypot zones will be extremely ‘peopley’. Weekends even more so. And yet, it has hidden places. And some of them aren’t even that far from the honeypots. Take Alport Castles. A mile from the Snake Pass, one of the busiest roads in the Peak District. Close to the much-photographed reservoirs of Ladybower and Derwent. There are three popular pubs within a two-mile radius. But somehow, the Castles are off the radar. Thousands may pass close-ish to them every day, yet have no clue they’re up there, quietly nestling up their own little valley. But the big question about Alport Castles really isn’t where they are but what they are. The simple answer is ‘stunning’: see a picture of them, and you’ll probably want to go there. Who wouldn’t? Immense turrets of rock, perched on the side of a moor, high above a near-silent valley. A place to explore, gawp, take photos and marvel. Castles in the air, indeed. X

T TOWERING

AMBITION

Close to the Peak honeypots yet with a fraction of the crowds, Alport Castles is the poster-child for Hidden Britain.

HOWDEN RESERVOIR

DERWENT RESERVOIR

Alport Castles

Glossop

Sn ake Pa ss

Visitor Centre

T HE PE AK DIST R IC T NAT I ONAL PAR K Sheffield

7 A5

LADYBOWER RESERVOIR

S EARLY RISING

The plantations on the early stretch of the walk were put in to help purify the streamwater that would ﬂow into the Ladybower and Derwent reservoirs.

T CASTLES?

WHAT CASTLES?

The vast moorland of Rowlee and Birchin conceals the geological carnage that lies ahead.

But the geological answer is deeper, more nuanced, and absolutely fascinating. They are, essentially, a landslide. At over half a mile long, they are often touted as the largest currently visible landslide in the United Kingdom. But let’s be careful there, because the exact same claim is made of the Quiraing on Skye, which most certainly is larger than Alport. The Lyme Regis undercliff in Dorset is almost certainly larger, too. Landslips are immensely common; the British Geological Survey’s landslides database currently records over 18,000 slips, slides and shivers, including the more famous ‘slow’ landslip at Mam Tor, just a few miles from Alport, and the one at Ridge Cliff in Dorset which last month discharged more than 4000 tonnes of rock into the sea. But what makes Alport so fascinating is that it’s a landslide frozen in mid-event. What you’re looking at is a vast chunk of the moorland escarpment known as Birchin Hat which broke away from the moor and slid down the flank, but stopped before collapsing completely. It’s a landslide on pause. At fault for the carnage is the complex layer-cake of rock strata which make up this part of the Dark Peak. The valley of Alport Dale is made up of weak carboniferous shales (fine-grained rocks formed mainly from mud) topped by firmer layers of millstone grit. Over the millennia, rain and stream water would have seeped through cracks in the

You’re out onto the open moorland… “ with very little sense of the approaching spectacle until you’re right on top of it.”

36 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

gritstone and down into the shale, causing it to weaken. Add in frost and ice from the last ice age, and glaciation causing the side of the valley to over-steepen, and you have all the ingredients for a collapse. The shale broke away, sliding down the hillside and causing the heavier gritstone top layer to break apart into huge boulders which tumbled down around the shale, and now lie at the foot of the landslip. But some of the shale foundations remained intact enough to slow to a stop without collapsing fully, still topped by fragments of gritstone, giving us the castles as we see them today. The centrepiece is The Tower: an isolated pinnacle which has the uncanny look of a structure that someone has put there deliberately. It kind of reminds me of a natural version of the castle of Dinas Bran near Llangollen. The remote nature of Alport Dale means that there’s not really an easy way to get to them (but that’s all the better for walkers, of course).

DISCOVER Alport Castles

IS OR ARE? Alport Castles is/are a ﬁne example of a dilemma faced at several beauty spots around the country: singular or plural? ‘Alport Castles is an amazing place’ sounds wrong, but so does ‘Alport Castles are an amazing place’. You can’t even cheat by calling them the Alport Castles, because no map or reference ever calls them that. The same problem happens at Crinkle Crags and Tarn Hows in the Lake District, Stanwick Lakes in Northamptonshire, Langdon Hills in Essex, and probably many others I haven’t thought of. As a grammar pedant, it troubles me. But perhaps we’re safe to leave this one to your discretion.

Named after the snake on the coast of arms of the Dukes of Devonshire, rather than for its winding course over the hills they owned.

S CASTLES IN

THE CLOUDS

Exploring the landslip that created Alport Castles, with The Tower framed perfectly by the V in the moorland edge.

As mentioned, the Snake Pass goes right past the bottom of the dale, but there’s no convenient car park at that point, and the Castles are still over a mile up the dale anyway. So the best assaults on the Castles come from the far side of the moor; from the top end of the northern arm of Ladybower Reservoir. It’s a long way – almost 3½ miles from the Bridge End car park; a little less (but a lot steeper) from the Fairholmes one. Up through the plantations you’ll go; planted when the reservoirs were built, for the trees to act as natural puriﬁers for the streamwater that would ﬁll the man-made lakes at their foot. Then you’re out onto the open moorland of Rowlee and Birchin, tracking the edge of the plateau with very little sense of the approaching spectacle until you’re right on top of it. Along the way you’re treated to one of the most unusual panoramas in the Peak District: some of the undisputed superstars of the national park,

but all from unfamiliar angles: Kinder Scout, the Great Ridge, Lost Lad and Back Tor. You’re not far from the route of our recent three-day epic Dark Peak Way, in fact – but a short distance makes a big difference round here, and nothing on this trip looks like anything on that one. And then – the Castles. Like High Cup after the miles of Pennine Way over Dufton Fell, the castles emerge instantly and breathtakingly. You can delve down into them via the V-shaped ravine that leads directly to The Tower, and explore at your leisure. Every step is on soil that arrived here by falling; every huge boulder once formed part of the moor above you. While you’re there, look out for ring ouzels and even peregrines: cliff-loving birds that thrive here, very much enjoying the fact that much of the world is oblivious to the existence of Alport Castles. Probably because of their hidden nature, the Castles haven’t provoked the ﬂood of artistic X JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 37

writing that other Peak hotspots have. But one writer who has definitely been there is the Sheffield-based poet, walker and runner Helen Mort, who nails it in her poem Alport Castles: and we walked the slope believing we were part of the scenery talking about music and summits, places we’d never go again. then the rocks finished my sentence – tall and architectural: their moat of grass their keep of clouds, more intricate than any human fort. We sat up high and praised Like two off-duty gods You said it, Helen. But where now? That’s a little tricksy, because the Castles live in their own confined little world. Although the fields beneath them are Access Land, the Castles are hemmed in by stone walls with no obvious jump-points, so to continue your walk you’ll need to backtrack to the moor’s edge and skirt south of the carnage, descending to Alport Castles Farm, the last outpost of civilisation in Alport Dale. There’s seismic history here, too. John Wesley, founder of Methodism, preached his nonconformist doctrine to the locals at the farm in the 18th century. (The community was larger then, due to the villages of Ashopton and Derwent, which were later flooded by the reservoirs.) Wesley’s visit is still remembered fondly in this quiet valley. Every July (in ‘normal times’, anyway) the farm hosts an unusual Methodist celebration called the Love Feast: instead of the usual communion wine and wafers, the congregation passes around fruitcake and a two-handled Loving Cup filled with water, in memory of the major new force which shook the religious landscape of Britain here at this farm.

Then there’s Hannah Mitchell. Born on the same farm in 1872, she rejected the expected life of marrying a farm lad and settling down, and ran away to Bolton, where she worked as a seamstress. She became a prominent suffragette, socialist and trade unionist, working with Emmeline Pankhurst and Labour founder Keir Hardie to advance the cause of gender equality with all her strength. She became a Manchester city councillor, a magistrate and an author, and by the time of her death in 1956 at the age of 84, she had lived long enough to see

T HIDING

TO NOTHING

From the pastures of Alport Castles Farm, the Castles blend in to the cliffside, giving precious little sense of their presence up there.

DISCOVER Alport Castles

Landslide watching The British Geological Survey maintains the National Landslide Database, an active and up-to-date register of landslides, and has a particularly close eye on possible future collapses. They measure TTVs, or Trigger Threshold Values – the factors and pressures that may contribute to a landslide. Globally, the most common trigger is earthquakes, but Britain doesn’t get too many of those. Instead our most common trigger is simple rainfall, which of course was a major contributor to the formation of Alport Castles. The BGS also runs landslide observatories at several sensitive sites around the country, including Aldbrough on the East Yorkshire coast, Happisburgh on the Norfolk coast, and Hollin Hill in North Yorkshire. They even have a reporting hotline; so if the ground beneath you starts rumbling, you may want to a) move, and then b) drop a line to the Landslide Response Team on 0115 936 3143 or via email at landslides@bgs.ac.uk W TARGET PR ACTICE

The dams of Derwent (pictured), Ladybower and Howden doubled as the Möhne, Eder and Sorpe dams of Germany when the Lancaster bombers of 617 Squadron practised for their ‘Dam Buster’ raid of May 1943.

women given the vote, and equal pay for women in professions such as teaching and the Civil Service. Not enough change, of course – but still a vast improvement on the world she was born into, here at a remote farm at the end of a lonely valley. One little building, yet so much significance. A reminder that everything we see on a walk has a story to tell. Usually more than one. But it’s the Castles that have the biggest story of all on this walk. They’ll recede and recede as you head down the valley towards the roar of the Snake and contemplate the final up-and-over that’s required to get back across the ridge to the start. You’ll look back. A lot. Before long, the Castles simply blend into the hillside. And by the time you’re at the Snake, Alport Dale has become just another crimp in the moorland. You’re looking right at the Castles, but you can barely see them. And this is the beauty of hidden things. If the Castles lay five minutes from a car park, or just off a popular walking path, they’d be a lot less quiet. Alport Dale would be a very different valley. You can bet the Victorians would have tried to put up a funicular railway or something. But the fact that they are hard to reach, hard to see; even hard to read about, makes them special. The walker who hikes up through the plantations and out over the moors to find them has really earned their wow moment. Just don’t tell anyone I told you, right?

X SSSSSHH!

DON ’T TELL!

This is one of very few signposts to acknowledge the Castles’ existence.

Plan your trip WALK HERE See Walk 11 in this issue for your step-by-step guide to getting to Alport Castles.

GETTING HERE The best place to park is at the top end of the northern arm of Ladybower Reservoir, ideally at the Bridge End car park, grid ref SK180884.

WHERE TO EAT, DRINK & STAY Our favourite place in this neck of the woods is the Yorkshire Bridge Inn at Ladybower (01433 651361, yorkshire-bridge.co.uk), which has double rooms with breakfast from £70 and great pub food including the £11.50 Dam Burger, named in honour of the Dambusters, who

trained for their famous raid using the nearby dams for targeting. Also close by is the Ladybower Inn (01433 651241, bateman.co.uk), although current details of accommodation were unavailable as we went to press.

MORE INFORMATION

For general tourist information, go to visitpeakdistrict. com and peakdistrict.gov.uk

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 39

Masterpieces Where do you hide the nation’s most-prized paintings when invasion looms? In 1940, the answer was an old slate mine in North Wales.

VINTAGE PHOTOS: FRED RAMAGE/STRINGER/GETTY IMAGES

WORDS: PHILIP THOMAS

40 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

DISCOVER Manod Mawr

HE YEAR WAS 1940. The armies of Nazi Germany had overrun much of mainland Europe, pillaging and destroying priceless artworks wherever they went. Britain was next in Hitler’s sights. At the National Gallery in London, plans were underway to safeguard the extensive collection ahead of the impending Blitz (during which nine bombs would hit the museum). With U-boats prowling the Atlantic, evacuating them overseas was deemed too risky by director Kenneth Clark. Churchill himself intervened and experts were dispatched to ﬁnd a safe hiding place on home soil. Initially many paintings were sent to country houses, with the lion’s share going to Penrhyn Castle near Bangor. But it soon became apparent that such a stately tinderbox would be an easy target for Luftwaffe bombers trailing the Welsh coast to Liverpool. A more remote and secure location was called for. The site chosen was a derelict slate mine above Blaenau Ffestiniog, deep inside a domed and dog-eared mountain called Manod Mawr. Into this cavern were stashed over 1800 paintings by the likes of Turner and Constable, da Vinci and Van Gogh – a trove that included 19 Rembrandts. Transporting them in secret was half the challenge. Smaller paintings were packed into Royal Mail vans and Cadbury’s lorries for an unobtrusive journey. Larger works called for huge triangular crates dubbed ‘elephant’ cases, loaded onto ﬂatbed trucks. One such cumbrous canvas was Van Dyck’s 12-by-9½ feet Equestrian Portrait of Charles I, for which a road surface was lowered so it could squeeze under a tight railway arch. Once they had reached the quarry – all of 1700 feet up the mountain – the

paintings were then loaded into ANGLESEY wagons and wheeled underground Conwy Bangor on narrow gauge tracks. By 1941, the entire collection was safely sealed inside six air-tight ‘bungalows’ – insulated from the damp and cold Manod Mawr conditions of the mine. Here the nation’s treasures remained for Harlech the next four years, tended by a small staff, with one painting returning to Trafalgar Square each month to go on public display. 80 years on, art lovers everywhere can be grateful for Wales’ custodian mountain. W HANDLED

WALK HERE: For a 6-mile trek around Manod Mawr, park at Cae Clyd, south of Manod (grid ref SH708443). Find the path east into Cwm Teigl, and pick up the road that carried truckloads of valuable art into hiding, worming its way up to the quarries. Heed any signs for the permissive path that tucks up behind the workshops to the barred cavern entrance (SH731455), where a right of way then rises southwest over the saddle of the mountain. Careful wayﬁnding is called for as you strike south for the shelter and trig point base at the summit. Retracing your steps to the path, steer down and around the mountain to Lynn y Manod for a way back to Cae Clyd. See our route on OS Maps and download a GPX plot at www.bit.ly/manodmawr MAP: OS Explorer OL18

WITH CARE

Facing page: The move to North Wales taught gallery staff much about art preservation. Storage facilities at Manod remained on standby during the Cold War. T MOUNTAIN

SANCTUARY

Intensively quarried on one side, Manod Mawr (right) was left out of the newly created Snowdonia National Park in 1951.

Hide them in caves and cellars, but “ not one picture shall leave this island.” WINSTON CHURCHILL, 1940

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

Right next to Scotland’s superstar island yet barely noticed: meet the backing singers that deserve a lot more attention. W O R D S : J E N N Y WA LT E R S

DO YOU WANT TO DANCE? The view from the trig point at the top of Raasay, aka Isle of the Roe Deer, can have a powerful effect on visitors...

DISCOVER The Secret Highlands

The jig-worthy hill The Fairy Pools, Quiraing, Old Man of Storr, Black Cuillin: places on the Isle of Skye look just as magical as those names suggest, as the rocks hurtle up in all kinds of rub-your-eyes shapes. But those shapes draw crowds, often big crowds, while drifting just offshore are more islands – spectacular islands – where few seem to go. The closest is the long rocky strip of Raasay, which stretches 14 miles by three. It lies between Skye and the mainland’s Applecross Peninsula, wedged snugly in the Sound of Raasay like a cargo ship in the Suez Canal. And when James Boswell and Samuel Johnson toured the Hebrides in 1773 Boswell danced a jig at the top of the island, on the summit of Dùn Caan. It’s easy to see why. At 1457 feet (444m) it’s no giant but as the solitary high lump on Raasay, the view is vast. It bumps up and down over Applecross across the water, spikes sharply across the Red and Black Cuillin on Skye, then ﬂows along the length of that island’s Trotternish ridge to a wedge of open sea. You might get dizzy as you try and decide which way to look. The island’s own landscape is glorious too, tapering north in a ribbon of rock so diverse and ancient it makes geologists jig for joy,

and plummeting east over cliffs to a shelf of green turf and a shining loch, with the waves twinkling below. This ﬂat-capped hill – once a ﬁery volcano – is readily climbed by way of the Burma Road (named for the jungle the forestry workers hacked through to build it) and moorland paths from the island’s port at Clachan, which is just a 25-minute ferry ride from Sconser on Skye. Out and back to the top of Dùn Caan is nine miles but a longer, tougher, return leads down the steep eastern scarp to the ruins of Hallaig. Once the isle’s largest settlement, it was cleared in the mid 19th-century to make way for sheep farming and is the subject of Raasay-born poet Sorley MacLean’s most famous poem: ‘I will go down to Hallaig, to the Sabbath of the dead, where the people are frequenting, every single generation gone.’ A drove road once used by villagers leads to North Fearns, then paths and narrow lanes take you round the isle’s southern shores to return to the main village of Inverarish and nearby port. The most famous road on Raasay is up north though, at the end of the single thread of tarmac that runs nine miles up the island. The last 1¾ miles from Brochel Castle to Arnish are known

as Calum’s Road, cut from the rock and bog almost single-handedly by Calum MacLeod using pick, shovel and barrow, and a copy of Road Making & Maintenance: A Practical Treatise for Engineers, Surveyors and Others. For years islanders had campaigned for the road to be extended, hoping better connections might stop the depopulation of the north, but the council refused – so Calum stepped in. It took a decade of hard graft around his other jobs as crofter, postman, and lighthouse-keeper on Rona, but by 1974 Calum had engineered almost two miles, which the council eventually surfaced some years later. It wasn’t the only route he forged here: through the winters of 1949-1952 Calum and his brother built a path from Torran to Craig an Eòin, earning £35 a season. You can still follow their cleverly engineered route and when the tide is out you can keep on across the seaweed strewn causeway to the even quieter, uninhabited island of Eilean Fladday. WALK HERE: Download Dùn Caan at walk1000miles.co.uk/bonusroutes MORE INFO: See Caledonian MacBrayne (calmac.co.uk) for ferry details and raasay.com for the island.

ISLE OF SKYE Raasay

Kyle of Lochalsh

Corran

Eigg

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 43

PHOTO: PETEROWBOTTOM2016/GETTY

Rùm

44 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

T THE BIG SMALL ISLE

The peaks of Rùm seen from Eigg, two of the four islands that make up the Small Isles archipelago. Rùm is the largest, and home to just 22 people (and 900 red deer). PHOTO: TOM BAILEY

X FORTRESS

CLIFF

There is a way for mere mortals to climb An Sgùrr, also known as the Sgurr of Eigg – and it’s incredible. PHOTO: VINCENT LOWE/ALAMY-

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DID YOU KNOW? Glenelg in Scotland is twinned with Glenelg on Mars, the only place on Earth twinned with somewhere on another planet. NASA chose the name for an area of Mars near Curiosity’s landing site; the rover was due to visit it twice and they wanted a name that was a palindrome and read the same coming and going.

The most beautiful view No part of the mainland gets closer to Skye than the Glenelg Peninsula, separated by just 500 metres from the ‘winged isle’ by the ﬁerce tidal race of Kyle Rhea. Reached by a single unclassiﬁed road from Shiel Bridge, over the high pass of Mam Ratagan, it sees far fewer visitors than Skye, and the further you go round the peninsula the quieter it gets until the single-track lane gives out entirely at the hamlet of Corran. Across Loch Hourn lies the great wilderness of Knoydart topped by the exquisite lines of Ladhar Bheinn, and there’s plenty of wild walking on this side of the water too. The Munro (Scottish

The view makes it all “ worthwhile. Sir Hugh Munro described it as ‘perhaps the most beautiful I have seen in Scotland’

”

46 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

mountain over 3000 feet) of Beinn Sgritheall rears in a wall to a trio of summits behind the neighbouring village of Arnisdale. The ascent is as steep as it looks and a start at sea-level means you’re climbing every last one of its 3196 feet, as the water of the Allt a’ Mhuilinn guides you up to Bealach Arnasdail and a left turn up what feels like sheer scree to the mountain’s east top, and along a narrowing ridge to the highest central summit – where the view magicks away all the pain. Sir Hugh Munro described it as ‘perhaps the most beautiful I have seen in Scotland’ and writer and adventurer, Hamish Brown, said he would not swap it ‘for any

Decathlon is reducing its environmental impact through Eco-Design. Here’s what that means.

OR OVER 40 years, Decathlon has been striving to make an active lifestyle accessible to all. But what good is that if we don’t also protect the planet that we live on? This is why sustainability and Eco-Design have become a crucial part of the Decathlon ethos, both for how we produce our clothing equipment, and how we operate as a global retailer. WHAT IS ECO-DESIGN? It’s about focusing on the ways we can minimise the environmental impact through a product’s entire lifespan. This means looking at every stage of the process, from the earliest stages of design all the way through a product’s life cycle, making sure that while every product maintains its performance, it’s done in a way that’s kinder to our planet. For example, if we are going to make an eco-designed thermal ﬂeece, it has to maintain the standards that the hiking community expects and make a difference environmentally.

Right through the life cycle… By understanding the environmental impact of every stage of a product’s life cycle, we discover exactly where we can be more eco-conscious. This includes: • The extraction and treatment of raw materials (eg cotton, right) • The manufacturing technique during production • How a product is transported from origin to distribution • The sales location and mode of distribution • The impact of its usage, washing, and maintenance • Its end of life: repair, recycling, destruction (eg recycled yarn, below right).

Advertising feature

How we deliver on Eco-Design COTTON RECYCLING Using pieces from redundant clothing or manufacturing offcuts, we are able to extract fabric ﬁbres, which we then mix with virgin cotton to create a yarn that will be either knitted or woven into a garment. Currently this meets 6% of our cotton needs, dramatically reducing our cotton requirements and in turn, our environmental impact. COTTON GROWING By sourcing 16% of our cotton from organic farms, we can produce hiking clothing without using harmful pesticides, chemicals, and synthetic fertilisers. What’s more, organic cotton growing helps reduce negative impacts on rivers and freshwater sources close to the farms and helps maintain the fertility of the soil. Organic cotton farming also has 98% less impact on water pollution than traditional forms of growing. Decathlon is also proud to be part of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the largest cotton sustainability programme in the world. With 76% of our cotton BCI certiﬁed, and together with our growing initiatives, we can now say 100% of our cotton is sustainably sourced.

RECYCLED POLYESTER Created by melting down existing plastics and re-spinning to create a polyester fibre, we can give so many pieces of unwanted and unused clothing a second life. Also by recycling plastic bottles or textiles to produce our polyester, we can reduce the use of petroleum-based resources while preserving the fabric’s breathable qualities. In 2019 we recycled 32 million plastic bottles to make our Quechua fleeces! DOPE DYEING Dyeing is a process that requires a great deal of water and also generates waste water from dyeing vats. To reduce this environmental impact, we choose dope dyeing, which integrates the colour pigments into the fibre when manufacturing the thread itself, rather than being applied later through traditional dyeing processes.

Using recycled polyester to create innovative new products.

polluting. Seen as unconventional compared to normal dyeing techniques, the Biton process minimises the amount of water used through only dyeing one thread instead of two. There is far less impact on the fabric, and far less water used. X

BITON The main impact of dyeing comes from the rise in certain CO2 emissions from the high temperature that is required, making the whole process

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 87

DISCOVER The Cragg Vale coiners

PHOTO: ALAN WRIGLEY/ALAMY

PHOTO: ROGER ELLIS

MONEY FACTORY Bell House, high and isolated on the moor, was the epicentre of the coiners’ operation.

S COINING IT IN

Above: The coining operation in full swing – clipping, melting, stamping. Left: One of the stamps used to create phoney Portuguese coins.

It’s called Bell House, and though the map “ tells you it was important enough to give its name to the moor itself, NWZ Å^M aMIZ[ in the 1760s it was more important still.

”

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 49

Meet the We fall hard for the stunners, but a long-lasting love is more than skin deep – a lesson hundreds of Britain’s wallflower peaks are waiting to teach us. WORDS: GUY PROCTER

JUST THE VIEW AND YOU High above Cautley Spout in the Howgills you enjoy a privileged, often private-feeling, spot between the Lakes and the Dales.

HAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE mountain? If you have to think about it, then good. If you struggle to answer at all, even better. Because you don’t need one. In fact the need to have everything placed somewhere on a scale from worst to best is one of life’s great fallacies. Exhausting, reductive, pointless, wrong. Good for Friday night TV, bad for real life. You can’t rank hills any more than you can have a favourite child or a World Cup of wildﬂowers. But then we can’t blame you either if you did have a ready answer. Because in the same way a music lover can be expected to be asked ‘Who’s your favourite band then?’ – and met with incomprehension if the answer is an honest ‘Err, dunno’ – walkers need a reply to keep the conversational game going. Snowdon’s a good one. Helvellyn another. Tryfan – excitingly just-offcentre; Ben Nevis – a blunt-force parry. But while it might be good for the national conversation, it’s not good for

DISCOVER The Invisibles

the world to have these famous playingpiece mountains in constant deployment – or for us to believe what we’re saying. Because in walking, as in music, its pleasures and potential lie in far, far more than a few famous tracks. There are some hills which seem to positively want not to be noticed; wallflowers which would wilt at the thought of having the spotlight turned on them. Hills lacking the grippy outlines by which the memory can grab onto them, or the distinctiveness to be solo performers. Great rolling greennesses with names like dropped Scrabble hands, busy with contours which someone never amass into anything too standout. Hills better known by their collective names than anything individual – and even then not very well-used names at all. The Howgills, The Cheviots, The Southern Uplands, the Elenydd. Not many walkers can reach deeper than these categorical layers and fish out specific peaks with confidence.

Circumstantially, these are often inbetweeny-places – squeezed by more famous destinations as in the case of the Howgills, which has the Dales and the Lake District as its overbearing neighbours – or on the way to something more attentioncommanding, as in the case of the Scottish Highlands and the secondbest-sounding Southern Uplands. Or perfectly camouflaged by comparison to the brightly-defined, clearly-labelled rivals to north and south, as the Elenydd find themselves next to Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons. But then ‘rivals’ is the wrong word – one belonging to the false narrative that there are winners and losers in walking. The hills of these ranges are waging the good fight walking itself does – the one that urges you to accept that the best walk is the one you’re on, the best ambition to be the person you are, the best lunch the one in your rucksack. In a day on these hills you might knock off half a dozen summits

and have forgotten the names of all of them by the time you get home. (‘Do you remember the day we had on Gwryd, Cae Garw and unnamed spot-height 426m?’). In their anonymity they undermine the cult of the summit, the famous silhouette, and ask instead ‘What is it about walking that you really enjoy? The flow of the path or the full stop of the summit? The experience or the tick? And walking as you find you are, on paths little more than dents in the grass, in splendid isolation, it’s embarrassing even to have been asked. When your walk is over, you won’t be able to buy a t-shirt proclaiming ‘I CLIMBED SHILLHOPE LAW’ or send a humblebrag of a postcard showing the unmistakable profile of Docker Knott in full winter raiment. But you will have a headful of new places that feel like your own discovery, and that feeling of having walked off the edge of the known world, into one in which opportunities for discovery, escape and peace, perfect peace breed endlessly. X

The Howgills Born in Cumbria, yet since 2017 part of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, it’s like the Howgills have been subject to a witness relocation program and aren’t meant to be found. They’re a shield-shaped cluster of velvet fells between Sedbergh, Tebay and Ravenstonedale, handsome and soothing. In fact so ﬂatteringly do these smooth, rolling, gracefully interlaced hills catch evening light you’d swear they were the most beautiful hills on earth – and their pumiced proﬁles suggest effortless walking. The highest point is The Calf (676m/2218ft), most wellknown feature the waterfall Cautley Spout, and there’s another Langdale to discover, among a dozen days to be carved from these stately slopes.

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 51

PHOTO: TOM BAILEY

WALK HERE: Turn to Walk 16 and/or download Cautley Spout and the Calf from walk1000miles/bonusroutes

WE COME ALIVE OUTSIDE

Applecross sunset looking out over Skye. Photo: Nadir Khan

LIVE. BREATHE. OUTDOORS. ellis-brigham.com

DISCOVER The Invisibles

The Cheviots

PHOTO: LOOP IMAGES LTD/ALAMY-

Southern Uplands

WALK HERE: Download The Merrick from walk1000miles.co.uk/bonusroutes

PHOTO: ANDY SUTTON/ALAMY-

PHOTO: TOM BAILEY

and Rippling, leafy and syrup-sweet, the Chiltern Hills aren’t known for debauchery and wartime intrigue. But here’s a walk that suggests perhaps they should be... WORDS: PHILIP THOMAS

MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE It’s an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty replete with stately abodes like West Wycombe Park. But is there more to the Chilterns besides nice views and the National Trust?

PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY

DISCOVER The Chiltern Hills Luton Oxford CHILTERN HILLS AONB West Wycombe Reading

X UP ABOVE

Far right: Artiﬁcial caves under West Wycombe Hill allegedly hosted meetings of the socalled Hellﬁre Club. X DOWN BELOW PHOTO: NEIL MCALLISTER/ALAMY-

Right: Tortuous passageways lead to the ‘Banqueting Hall’ – thought to be Europe’s largest man-made chalk cavern.

AVE YOU EVER noticed how location scouts for film and television can’t get enough of the Chilterns? Whenever a cosy period drama or whimsical fantasy calls for a quintessentially English setting, more often than not it’s somewhere in the arc of chalk hills billowing across the northerly Home Counties from Bedfordshire down to the Thames. Home to Dibley and the windmill from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, they are the very image of rustic wholesomeness. In fiction at least, it’s also an image we love to see trashed and subverted; whether it be a gleefully incongruous car chase in Killing Eve or yet another absurd case of homicide in a rollier part of Midsomer. We want to believe that under the prim and sedate surface, something appallingly seedy or tremendously exciting is going on. Incredible as it might sound, there really are such murky and intriguing places sequestered in the Chilterns – quite literally below the surface. Striding up the bosky stump of a hill above the dinky Buckinghamshire village of West Wycombe, you’re passing right over one: the Hellfire Caves. Extending 800 feet into the chalk, this maze of man-made chambers and passageways takes its name from an exclusive club that reputedly held its boisterous meetings deep within during the middle years of the 18th century. Chief among these rakish ‘persons of quality’ said to indulge in subterranean vice was Sir Francis Dashwood, squire of West Wycombe Park – the Palladian pile you can spy in the valley below. It was he who commissioned the caves, along with the hexagonal mausoleum and blinged up church that crown West Wycombe Hill. But though his tastes were extravagant, he did at least spare a thought for his hard-up tenants. The Hellfire Caves were a by-product of his beneficence. There had long been a quarry on the side of the hill, but after a series of failed harvests from 1748, Dashwood saw an opportunity to alleviate poverty and make himself a grotto that would be the envy of his aristocratic chums. He paid out-of-work farm labourers a shilling a day to mine a sinuous tunnel, the chalk from which was used to build the arrowstraight road down to High Wycombe – today’s A40. Flints excavated from the sprawling caverns were also put to good use, making a grand Gothic entranceway and the mausoleum above. By 1752 Dashwood had the gnarliest clubhouse an 18thcentury playboy could wish for – the original ‘man cave’. Only instead of pool games and Xbox binges, he held pagan ceremonies directly under the church altar above. Or at least that’s what the rumours say. X JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 55

CHILTERN CHARM At one time a coaching post, West Wycombe is an enchanting hotchpotch of halftimbering, brickwork and cobbled passages.

S FANCY DRESS

Depicted in his lavish Divan Club get-up, Francis Dashwood had enjoyed Grand Tours around Europe and the Middle East. S UNDERWORLD

Open to the public, the Hellﬁre Caves have drawn visitors since 1863. The mock Gothic portal mimics a ruined church. T WAR & PEACE

Right and below: Hillside’s staff had little time to enjoy Hughenden’s garden. Most were billeted in High Wycombe.

56 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

Much has been speculated about the antics of the Hellfire Club, but not a lot has been proved. It’s not even known for certain whether they really did use the caves at West Wycombe to hold their fabled feasts and orgies, away from prying eyes. As for dabbling in black magic, the jury’s still out. The Medmenham Monks or Friars of St Francis, as the club was variously known, was one of several that Dashwood belonged to. The bon vivant baronet had earlier formed the Dilettanti Society, notorious for their boozy dinners. Such clubs – with rules and rituals, gambling and wild hedonism – were all the rage among well-travelled men in Georgian high society. Other illustrious members of the Hellfire Club included the painter-satirist William Hogarth and John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich (of slicedbread-and-fillings fame). As for Dashwood himself, later life saw him settle into a respectable political career, rising to high office in parliament as Chancellor of the Exchequer. Whether true or not, the debauched activities of the Hellfire Club wouldn’t be the last covert goingson in this otherwise sleepy district of the Chilterns. Over the hill at Hughenden – and nearly two hundred years later – a very different kind of underground operation was afoot. Festooned with hazel and beech, a shady hollow way takes a stealthy, scything course from the outskirts of High Wycombe up to Downley Common. Here another path pitches into a muffled dell, crossing into the Hughenden Manor estate, impeccably maintained by the National Trust. The big house sits loftily on the wooded spur beyond. This stately red-brick abode, remodelled with Gothic trimmings in 1862, is best-known as

DISCOVER The Chiltern Hills

The furniture and “ Å\\QVO[ WN Disraeli’s former home had JMMV [_MX\ I_Ia \W UISM [XIKM NWZ drafting tables.

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the country seat of Benjamin Disraeli – Queen Victoria’s favourite Prime Minister. It was a museum dedicated to his life when the Air Ministry requisitioned the estate in October 1941. For the next four years it was home to a top-secret cartography unit, known by the code name Hillside. Comprising around 150 Royal Air Force and civilian personnel, its mission was to produce detailed target maps for commanders and bomber crews. How Hughenden’s wartime past came to light is a remarkable story in itself. Bound by the Official Secrets Act after the war, Hillside’s staff had kept schtum about their time at Hughenden for decades. But that would all change come 2004, when a National Trust volunteer overheard a visitor regaling his grandson with tales of his wartime service. It was to be followed by years of detective work – and gradually Hillside’s story began to unravel. In Hughenden’s lower rooms, the furniture and ﬁttings of Disraeli’s former home had been swept away to make space for banks of drafting tables. Using aerial reconnaissance photos scrutinized by intelligence boffins at nearby RAF Medmenham, Hillside’s cartographers painstakingly drew maps by hand, highlighting the roads, rivers and forests that would aid aircrews in navigating to their target. So intricate were the maps, each draftsperson might only produce two a week, often not knowing the locations they were drawing. They were then painted in varying shades and applications of black and magenta ink, so as to be easily read in the dim amber light of a cockpit. With the ink barely dry on the freshly printed maps, they were whisked by road under cover of darkness to

Bomber Command HQ at RAF High Wycombe, S EYING THE EAGLE’S NEST three miles away in Walter’s Ash. Among the target On foot, and in daylight, it’s a pleasant hourmaps produced at and-half’s march through the gloriously cool and Hughenden during tangled greenery of Naphill Common. You’re best WWII was a plan off going map in hand as you navigate the labyrinth of Hitler’s Bavarian bolthole above of paths which thread this way and that, into Berchtesgaden. thicket and under low-hung bough. Nowadays it’s hard to believe that much of the common was open ]ENGLAND OR grassland before the First World War, dotted with a ANCIENT ROME? few wiry beech pollards and a handful of venerable Based on Rome’s oaks. At one time it played host to summer fairs. For Constantine Arch, Dashwood’s brash centuries, sheep and cattle had cropped the turf, mausoleum was a pruning into oblivion any sapling that dared to 1763 design by John sprout there; but when grazing ceased in the 1920s, Bastard of Blandford. fragrant clumps of gorse, juniper and birch quickly Dashwood himself was laid to rest here began to colonise the wood pasture. These in turn 18 years later. were overtaken by the new-growth oak and beech trees which dominate the mixed woodland we see today, though you’ll still come across the banks and The name applies ditches that kept the animals in. to a series of Beyond the original bounds of the common, earthworks an even older earthwork called Grim’s Ditch extending across now lies inside the perimeter fencing of RAF High the Chilterns, believed to be Wycombe. Not that you can make it out through the Iron Age foliage that enshrouds the site. Indeed it was tree boundaries. It’s cover that ﬁrst drew the Air Ministry here in 1938, thought the desiring a camouﬂaged spot close to London, yet Saxons attributed secreted a safe distance from the metropolis itself. these man-made The site was suggested by Wing Commander Alan dykes to a devilish Oakeshott, a native of Naphill who went on to be character called a decorated war hero. Grim – alias of the Codenamed ‘Southdown’, everything about RAF Norse god High Wycombe was deliberately inconspicuous. Wōden. Even the buildings would blend in from the air to X JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 57

W GLORIES PAST

They’re not genuine relics of WWII, but they certainly look the part outside the main gate of RAF High Wycombe.

S FER AL FRUIT

We found these garden raspberries growing wild on the edge of Naphill Common. T DOWN TO

THE MEADOW

Up to 40 species of ﬂowering plant can grow in one square metre of Bradenham’s rare chalk grassland.

This type of aircraft was ﬁtted with a camera and ﬂown on reconnaissance missions.

avoid enemy attention, with a faux manor house for an officers’ mess and a fire station that could pass for a parish church. To Luftwaffe pilots passing high overhead, it would look like a typical Chiltern village. Below ground, a network of tunnels led to an operations block 55 feet under the surface. And it was here that maps from Hillside were pored over by the air force’s top brass, headed up from 1942 by Arthur ‘Bomber’ Harris – a controversial advocate for area bombing. Copies were then dispatched to squadrons flying from airfields across England. Without these highly accurate maps, the sinking of the German battleship Tirpitz, the bombing of Hitler’s Alpine retreat at Berchtesgaden and the famous Dambuster Raid carried out by 617 Squadron would not have been possible. Bomber Command merged with its dogfighting counterpart in 1968, and today the station is home to RAF Air Command, charged with protecting the UK’s airspace. Its modern nerve centre lies half-amile up the road in a Cold War-era nuclear bunker. Staff in azure and sky blue uniforms flit between the old and new sites. Strictly top secret, we can only speculate exactly what goes on behind all the chain link fencing and razor wire, 180 feet down into the chalk bedrock of the Chilterns. Before you come face-to-propellor with the station’s splendid gate guardians – a replica Hawker Hurricane and ‘Observer Corps’ Spitfire – there’s a footpath tucking around the outer fence, down into Bradenham Wood. Green and serene, it’s the

last place you’d expect to share a grid square with a subterranean hub of high-stakes military operations. For the most part it’s populated by the majestic beech trees the Chilterns are famed for – their colonnade trunks and fanning branches all creased and knobbly like an elephant’s skin. The papery leaves and prickly nut husks they dropped last autumn are trampled into the powdery chalk of every path. On either side, green spears of dog’s mercury and banks of nodding bluebells are telltale clues that this is ancient woodland.

HIDDEN IN THE UNDERWOOD Among the bracken and scrub of Naphill Common are ponds and overgrown oak pollards that tell of times gone by when livestock grazed here.

DISCOVER The Chiltern Hills

THE WOOD WIDE WEB

Green and serene, it’s the “ last place you’d expect to share a grid square with a subterranean hub of high stakes military operations.

”

PHOTO: KUMAR SRISKANDAN/ALAMY-

Plan your trip WALK HERE Turn to Walk 6 at the back of this magazine for a 9¾-mile route from West Wycombe to Hughenden Manor and through the woods to Walter’s Ash.

hellﬁrecaves. co.uk or call 01494 533739 for more information).

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 59

600 400 200 0 km 0

SURREY 05MYTCHETT

A track through pine woodland near point 2.

of the railways made it less competitive. Nowadays the canal serves both as a recreational amenity and a wildlife habitat. It was designated an SSSI in 1995.

Start Locate the approach road to the canal centre and follow it to the main road. Bear L and immediately L again up an untarred lane and through a metal barrier (with a ‘No Parking’ sign). Continue along wide sandy track through oak woodland. Keep ahead at wooden fingerpost along wide track that climbs steadily uphill. At the top of the hill you find yourself in Surrey heathland with tall pine trees on both sides. When the track forks,

GRADIENT PROFILE

PLAN YOUR WALK

ROUTE Start/parking Basingstoke Canal Centre, Mytchett, grid ref SU893550 Is it for me? Mainly level route along canal towpath, with some undulating sections across heathland Stiles None

PLANNING Nearest town Frimley Refreshments The Basingstoke Canal Centre; the Kings Head (Harvester Restaurant), Frimley Green Public toilets At start Public transport Bus 3 from Aldershot/Yateley to Mytchett Crossroads Maps OS Explorer 145; Landranger 186

branch diagonally L, towards an open (deforested) area. Keep ahead, ignoring all turnoffs, along a white track with loose chippings. In due course the main track swings to the R and terminates at a metal barrier and a byway.

chalk grasslands to Bradenham, weaving through beechwoods back to West Wycombe.

Start Cross the road from the car park entrance, taking path opposite, signed ‘West Wycombe Hill’. Keep ahead at junction, up steps to signpost. Turn L to explore hilltop mausoleum and church. Retrace steps to signpost and continue downhill to Hellfire Caves. Turn L along lane. Shortly swing R down Church Lane, under halftimbered Church Loft, to High Street. Turn L down pavement to roundabout.

¾ mile/1.3km Cross Bradenham Road

GRADIENT PROFILE

PLAN YOUR WALK

ROUTE

Start/parking Free car park on Chorley Road in West Wycombe, grid ref SU826946, HP14 3AP Is it for me? Undulating downland, woodland and field paths. Briefly on lanes/road. Seldom steep. Mostly well-signed, but careful wayfinding is called for in woods Stiles None

PLANNING

Nearest town High Wycombe Refreshments Choice at start; Le De Spencers Arms, Downley Common; café at Hughenden Manor; tea room, Bradenham Public toilets Church Lane, West Wycombe; NT Hughenden Manor Public transport Buses Link40 (High WycombeThame) and 275 (from Oxford) to start, and 130 (Aylesbury) stops nearby Maps OS Explorer 172; Landranger 165 & 175

WEST WYCOMBE & WALTER’S ASH

06BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

XDistance: 9¾ miles/15.7km XTime: 4½ hours XGrade: Moderate

E E SE TURE 54 A G FE PA ON

The Dashwood family mausoleum.

600 400 200 0 km 0

CHOSEN BY… PHILIP THOMAS From the hilltop church and grand mausoleum overlooking a Palladian mansion in the Chilterns – all three built or modified for 18th-century playboy Sir Francis Dashwood – chalk paths and woodland tracks lead to Hughenden Manor. Famously the country residence of Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli, it was later home to a secret map-making operation during World War II. The maps were destined for RAF Bomber Command at Walter’s Ash, three miles walk away through the shady woods of Naphill Common. Rounding off an extraordinary walk, you descend through

metres

XDistance: 5½ miles/8.7km XTime: 3 hours XGrade: Easy

CHOSEN BY… MIKE COPE A section of this route follows the towpath of the Basingstoke Canal, which was conceived as a means of transportation for agricultural goods from central Hampshire to London. The canal strikes eastwards from Basingstoke for 37 miles to link up with the River Wey Navigation at Byfleet – just 3 miles from the River Thames at Weybridge. The route was completed in 1794, and timber, flour and chalk were the principle cargoes taken to London, with coal transported on the return journey. But the canal did not prove to be profitable, as overland transportation and the coming

metres

SOUTH EAST

PHOTO: MIKE COPE

PHOTO: TOM BAILEY

Download free routes for all walks marked with a * at walk1000miles. co.uk/bonus routes

You can barely see the yellow shading of Dartmoor National Park for all the routes, but the land to the north, before you hit Exmoor and the coast, is markedly less trodden. And it’s a bucolic world of sunken lanes, chequerboard ﬁelds and leafy spinneys, all rolling across rippling hills. Check it out on a walk at Coldridge*, tracing the Tarka Trail along the River Taw, with views to Dartmoor’s tors from the ridge above.

MID DEVON

Going west is the surest way off Wales’ beaten track – to the Llŷn Peninsula in the north, and to the three counties that used to be Dyfed in the south. Not all the way west to the famed coastline, but instead to the hinterland regions of Pembrokeshire, Ceredigion and Carmarthenshire. Take a walk at Ffynone Falls* to see just what inland Pembs, outside the national park, has to offer.

PEMBROKESHIRE

It’s one of our best-beloved national parks, but even here the map reveals you can still ﬁnd a bit of hush. In the south and east, away from Snowdon and its superstar neighbours, the land is notably less-walked. Feel the solitude on Rhobell Fawr*, a neardeserted summit that’s a favourite with the local ranger.

SOUTHERN SNOWDONIA

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CONTAINS OS DATA © CROWN COPYRIGHT AND DATABASE RIGHTS 2021

Quiet paths in the south-east are rare, but the marshes of Romney, Denge and Walland offer pockets of tranquility (as does the eastern fringe of Essex). The watery ﬂats may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but that means more salt-laced air, silence and sky for those who do walk here.

KENT MARSHES

If you want lonely it seems you’ll ﬁnd it somewhere ﬂat (see marshes below). Yet the contour-shy, man-made land of the fens is a-chatter with birdlife, long views for no sweat, and a sky so big you can look up into it and feel your soul expand. If you like things a little hillier, the Lincolnshire Wolds to the north are also little-walked.

THE FENS

DISCOVER Britain’s Quietest Places

Second to The highest peaks in the land draw walkers like bees to nectar. But the next tallest are almost as high, just as thrilling, and enticingly overlooked… W O R D S : J E N N Y WA LT E R S

AS FAR AS THE EYE . . . From the top of Ben Macdui, the view plunges into the Lairig Ghru and out across the Cairngorms. There’s a viewﬁnder to help unravel what’s what.

DISCOVER The Second Summits

Ben Macdui CAIRNGORMS (4295ft/1309m)

Winning silver can be a thankless ride: all that work, all that achievement, and yet it’s the gold medallist that everyone always remembers. The same goes for hills. The names of the tallest peak in each home nation just trip off the tongue – Ben Nevis, Snowdon, Scafell Pike – but the ones that climb into second place? Not so much. It has to be particularly tough for Ben Macdui, as for centuries people thought it not only the kingpin of Scotland but the whole of the British Isles. The Reverend George Keith believed otherwise though, and one day in 1810 he climbed Macdui while his son scaled Ben Nevis, both carrying barometers to calculate altitude. Nevis nosed ahead by 50 feet, its win was confirmed by surveyors from the Ordnance Survey in 1847, and now keen summiters flock to the top of the nation, 116 feet above Macdui according to latest measurements. Queen Victoria bagged Macdui’s summit in 1859, commenting on its wild and solitary nature before imbibing a little whisky and water, as ‘pure water would be too chilling’. Don’t think Vic sipping a cocktail in a crinoline makes it an easy hike though: Macdui has always been a much tougher proposition than Nevis, a long walk from anywhere at the heart of the vast Cairngorm plateau. The great trench of the Lairig Ghru slashes by its west flank, blocking ascent with an impenetrable cliff of granite, so most walkers approach from the Linn of Dee to the south (an 18-mile circuit) or from the Cairngorm ski centre to the north (a 9-mile out and back across the shoulder of Cairn Lochan, or an 11-mile circuit if you return over Cairn Gorm). And they are hard miles, both for the relentless upward tilt and for the bouldery terrain. In poor weather, it’s notoriously difficult to navigate the rocky summit plateau, and this range sees some savage conditions including the highest wind speed ever recorded in Britain of 173 mph. Then there’s the Big Grey Man, a creature said to haunt the mountain and loom 10-feet tall from the mist. You can see why Macdui doesn’t draw the same crowds as Nevis, but on a clear day – what a place it is, with the Cairngorms national park spread at your feet. A triangulation point marks the top, but the views are best appreciated by edging (carefully!) out to the cusp of the plateau for a dizzying sense of just how high you’ve climbed. PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

WALK HERE: Download your free Ben Macdui route at walk1000miles.co.uk/ bonusroutes

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 63

LOOKING AT SNOWDON Britain’s favourite mountain graces the skyline, but up here on Carnedd Llewelyn things are a lot less busy...

We’d suggest “ you ditch the Pike entirely – Sca Fell fully deserves its own day – and access these craggy routes from their respective dales.

PHOTO: SIMON STAPLEY/ALAMY-

”

Carnedd Llewelyn Yr Wyddfa – Snowdon – is the roof of Wales, an extraordinarily beautiful mountain, and the most popular summit in Britain, ticked off by half a million people a year. In second place? Well, different lists award the Welsh silver medal to different peaks. On the one hand you have Garnedd Ugain at 3494 feet; on the other you have Carnedd Llewelyn fractionally shorter at 3491 feet. But Garnedd Ugain’s trig point is half a mile from Snowdon’s toposcope and linked by a high and chunky ridge which means arguably it’s all part of the same busy massif. So we’re going with camp two. The Carnedd range, seven miles north-east of Snowdon, is a quieter beast that has a reputation as something of a sprawling pudding, lacking the ﬁnely chiselled architecture that helps make Snowdon so popular. A look at the map shows that’s not really true; there’s exciting squeeze and swirl to the contour lines and you can have a properly big day out with hand on rock, breezily narrow ridges and the chance to stay high for 64 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

mile after mile in the biggest contiguous area above 2500 feet outside Scotland. Our favourite route sets off from the eastern end of Llyn Ogwen, tracing the burble of the Afon Lloer up into the mountains, and swinging left by the llyn to scramble sharply up onto Pen yr Ole Wen, before skylining round to Carnedd Dafydd and atop tall cliffs to Carnedd Llewelyn. Take your time to soak up views from Anglesey to Plynlimon – there’s no queue impatient for their triumphant summit pic here – then it’s down to the beguilingly pinched ridge of Bwlch Eryl Farchog, and if you’ve got the energy, a scramble up Pen yr Helgi Du to bowl down the turfy skyline of Y Braich and back along the valley. If your legs are squealing at that last climb, then you can cut down from the pass by Ffynnon Llugwy Reservoir instead. Either way, you’ll have an epic day up in the rafters of Wales, if not quite on the rooftop. WALK HERE: Download The Carneddau (returning by the reservoir) at walk1000miles.co.uk/bonusroutes

PHOTO: NIGEL WILKINS/ALAMY-

SNOWDONIA (3491ft/1064m)

DISCOVER The Second Summits

Sca Fell LAKE DISTRICT (3162ft/964m)

Like Ben Macdui, this one spent a good many years in a gold-medal, tallest-in-its-nation position. From Wasdale and Eskdale it dominates the view and throws shade on the summits to its north, a trio the locals collectively dismissed as ‘the pikes’. Until, that is, someone worked out one of those peaks was taller. It now has its own name – Scafell Pike (the other two are Ill Crag and Broad Crag) – and devoted pinnacle seekers climb that one instead. And very few of those crowds make it over to Sca Fell, even though the summits stand less than a mile apart. Why? Because the two are torn asunder by a deep rip through the rock bridged only by the narrow saddle of Mickledore. It makes a good platform from which to study Sca Fell’s craggiest face – described by Alfred Wainwright as ‘an awesome and humbling scene’ – but there’s no getting from Mickledore on to Sca Fell. The vast blocks of Broad Stand bar your way in a jumbled wall only accessible to climbers, or to Romantic poets like Coleridge who famously jumped his way down from ledge to ledge, shaking with terror and wondering if he was about to die. Dishearteningly, getting up Sca Fell from here ﬁrst means getting down. Drop to the Wasdale side of Mickledore, and brave souls can ﬁnd the

start of the (in)famous scree-laden chute of Lord’s Rake, with the option of breaking left halfway along it onto the West Wall Traverse and up Deep Gill to the summit. Down on the Eskdale side, there’s a slightly less hardy route, turning up a scree-chimney to reach Foxes Tarn, then up a steep stretch of rubble to the top. We’d suggest you ditch the Pike entirely – Sca Fell fully deserves its own day – and access these craggy routes from their respective dales. Eskdale is our favourite, following the river up from Brotherilkeld to Great Moss, scrambling up by Cam Spout and on almost as far as Mickledore, then branching left by Foxes Tarn to the summit. And you might be pleased to know Sca Fell isn’t all growl: it lowers much friendlier tussocky slopes to south and west, and the long shoulder of Slight Side and Cat Crag makes a gorgeous descent after that leg-wobbling climb. Oh, and should you happen to meet anybody along the way, Wainwright says you should pronounce the hill’s name ‘Scawﬂe’. WALK HERE: Download an alternative and lessscrambly route from Wasdale via Green How at walk1000miles.co.uk/bonusroutes

T GUIDING STAR

The crags of Sca Fell are so intricate no map can easily do them justice; the guidebooks of Wainwright and WA Poucher help make sense of the ‘humbling scene’.

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2 miles/3.25km Turn R, follow a grassy path northeast, to the L of an aqueduct that links No. 3, 4 and 5 reservoirs. They were known as Balancing Reservoirs which allowed water levels of Greenock Cut to be maintained. Follow a path across the moorland passing No. 4 Reservoir. Upon reaching No. 5 Reservoir take the small stone bridge across Wee Cut, turn L, follow the grassy track near the banks of the reservoir, culminating at a stony track.

START

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2¾ miles/4.4km Path continues close (often very close) to ridge, to top of

2 miles/3.2km After passing a footpath sign heading L, continue uphill along faint path broadly following ridge, parallel to the trees on L. Towards top, path veers R and crosses stream, continuing with Maesglase ahead. You soon cross another stream at waterfall to an outcrop with great views.

Eventually, you reach step stile, soon after which path veers R over narrow col.

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5 miles/8.2km Follow main farm track down to road, turn L, then take first lane R. As you approach confluence of two streams, take lane L, soon taking R fork. Lane becomes track, which heads through gate into a

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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6 5

wood. Just before second gate, take path R. Veer L when this joins rough track.

T R A ST

6½ miles/10.5km Follow this to road at entrance to caravan park. Turn R and road leads back into Dinas Mawddwy, where car park is on R.

JUNE 2021

Maen Du. From summit, cross fence, then turn R to follow it down very steep hill. At col before reaching Moel Cwm yr Eglwys, cross fence again and pick up rough track leading gradually down L side of valley. The track heads through several gates before reaching Ty’n-y-celyn.

XOS Explorer map OL23 XBuy maps at: ordnancesurvey.co.uk/shop

23 GWYNEDD MAESGLASE

TIME TAKEN

2¾ miles/4.5km Turn R, take gradual rise all the way to Overton Track. Make a R, for steady rise back to outward-bound track beneath White Hill. Retrace steps back to Greenock Cut Visitor Centre.

JUNE 2021

DATE WALKED

1¾ miles/2.75km From here ignore the track on the L for Dunrod Hill. Instead keep to the access road as it passes masts then descends a stony track northwest towards No. 3 Reservoir, with sumptuous view of the Luss Hills. Just before reaching dam wall, at its eastern tip, bear R onto rough track which drops easily down to pick up Wee Cut.

road signed for Dunrod Hill. After steady rise, incline eases with superb views opening out across Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park. As two radio masts are approached further extensive views open out and at highest point of route (277m above sea level) an exemplary vista takes in Greenock, the Firth of Clyde and the big muscular mountains of Southern Highlands.

SCOTLAND

XOS Explorer map 341 XBuy maps at: ordnancesurvey.co.uk/shop

INVERCLYDE THE WEE CUT

DATE WALKED YOUR RATING © Country Walking June 2021

WALES

YOUR RATING © Country Walking June 2021

DISCOVER Secret Weapons

ROCKETS! WHERE: ISLE OF WIGHT WHEN: 1950S Looming above the famous Needles of the Isle of Wight in the 1950s stood what looked like two grain silos – but were in fact secret testing sites for a rocket capable of travelling at 12,000 feet per second. 22 of the 35ft-tall Black Knight ballistic missiles were built by island-based firm Saunders-Roe and each was secretly (yet deafeningly) test-fired in these out-of-the-way sheds before being shipped to Australia for launch. The firm later noted with pleasure that not one had catastrophically blown up: “A remarkable record without parallel in ballistics rocket development”. How very reassuring for the islanders.

SAfter test-ﬁring in secret sheds on the Isle

of Wight, launches followed in the Outback.

SSamples were taken to see how fast

the population could be infected.

W Nothing to see here! Just these huge

sheds. And the noise? Oh that’ll be the sea.

UNDERGROUND CITY! WHERE: CORSHAM, WILTSHIRE WHEN: 1955-2004

GERM WARFARE! WHERE: SOUTH COAST WHEN: 1960S If you were walking on the South West Coast Path or in the New Forest (or anywhere inbetween) in the sixties, you may have been unwittingly exposed to biological attack. In fact between 1961 and 1968 more than a million people on the south coast were exposed to bacteria including E.coli and bacillus globigii (a mimic of anthrax) sprayed into the wind by a ship called the Icewhale anchored off the Dorset coast. The aim was to see how quickly the Russians could infect the population with something awful, by... infecting the population with something slightly less awful, documents declassiﬁed in 2002 revealed.

Under this unassuming patch of Wiltshire lies one of the Cold War’s biggest secrets – Burlington bunker, an underground city ﬁt to accommodate 4000 government staff bent on keeping the country going whatever World War III threw at us. You’d have no idea as you walk above it that 120ft beneath lies 35

acres of last-ditch civilisation, with 100,000 lights, miles of roads and comprising 22 separate areas housing everything from government ministries to a telephone exchange, rooms for the Royal Family and a BBC studio from which an embattled PM could address the nation. Operational for 30 years with always enough supplies to last its full occupancy 90 days, it’s now empty.

SThe underground city has its own

SA fully-equipped telephone exchange

SThe Icewhale sprayed pathogens at the

branch line to hurry officials to safety.

was essential for government business.

south coast from a mooring off Dorset.

68 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

The unbeaten path It’s a national trail, it has gorgeous chalky views like the South Downs Way, but hardly anyone walks the Yorkshire Wolds Way. You should… WORDS & PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY

Scarborough Filey Bridlington THE YORKSHIRE WOLDS WAY Kingston upon Hull Humber Bridge

DISCOVER The Yorkshire Wolds Way

ORKSHIRE: AN AREA of northern England now comprising four counties. The name originates from the old Brythonic word Eborakon, which comes from ‘Efor’ meaning ‘the place of the yew trees’. Danes and Vikings came along and twisted the pronunciation until we ended up with the word Yorkshire. It is of course God’s own country, although he seems quite happy to let walkers use it, which is nice of him/her. Wolds: elevated tracts of open or hilly ground. It’s derived from the old English word of German origin ‘Wald’ meaning forest. It would seem these hilly landscapes were heavily covered in trees and the name stuck long after the forests were cleared. Way: a track, path or road for travelling along. From the old English word, itself derived from the German ‘weg’, from an original meaning to carry or lift.

The Yorkshire Wolds Way runs 79 miles (127km) from Hessle under the Humber Bridge to Filey on the North Sea coast, winding up and down through a tranquil land fringed by busier places like the city of York, the River Humber, and the North York Moors National Park. It is the shortest National Trail in England and still, almost 40 years since the ribbon was cut on the 2nd October 1982, it is the least walked – despite having the same chalky footings as the eternally popular South Downs Way. The chalk that underlies this landscape was laid down in the Cretaceous (a period of time lasting 79 million years, starting 145.5 million years ago) and it makes for pretty much perfect walking terrain. The valleys are generally steep-sided, ﬂat-bottomed and dry due to porous chalk’s efficiency at soaking up water. The area of land at the top is X

T PERFECT

SECRET

Despite threading through utterly idyllic countryside like Swin Dale, this is the quietest national trail in England.

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S TR AIL MIX

Clockwise from above: The Way begins beneath the great span of the Humber Bridge, later climbing to High Hunsley Beacon, while regular waymarks with the national trail acorn symbol guide you.

T GREEN ROOF

The trees bend to form a tunnel in the woods near Brantingham, a leafy reminder of the forests that once carpeted much of the wolds.

fertile and more often than not used for growing arable crops, while livestock is kept down in the valleys, or on their ﬂanks, in a system sometimes referred to as ‘upside down farming’. It’s the quiet gentleness of it all that really makes an impression though. Subtlety always needs a little more time to leave its mark, which makes a long-distance path the perfect way to see this place. If you’ve never walked one before, the Wolds Way – not too long, not too tough – is a good one to start with. And don’t forget there are many ways to trek a long-distance path: some people walk it over a series of individual days, separated by months, or even years; others bash through the lot in the shortest time possible. Whatever your approach, the important thing is you sample the gloriously empty valleys and comfortable uplands that await. Peace is a rare thing these days, but even the start of the Yorkshire Wolds Way beneath the Humber Bridge is an oddly calm place – particularly considering how close it is to a large number of people. Two thousand years ago the Romans crossed the Humber via a ford: today people accelerate across the Humber suspension bridge, the longest in the world when built in 1981. It was nine years in the building and standing under the ‘wonder of the

72 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

Humber’ is a powerful experience. The line of the bridge accentuates the immense width of the river and ‘our’ collective power to overcome natural obstacles. Turning your back on it almost immediately seems signiﬁcant though, as you get ready to cross Yorkshire’s wolds the old way, on foot. As with all national trails, an acorn symbol guides your steps on well-positioned waymarkers – and it’s possible to follow those acorns along 4000km of path in England and Wales, and another 3000km on the Great Trails of Scotland. In fact, at the north end of the Yorkshire Wolds Way you can step right onto the Cleveland Way. But before we get too far from the banks of the Humber there’s more history to be had. At North Ferriby three Bronze Age wooden boats, the largest of which was capable of carrying eighteen people, were excavated during the 20th century. Crossing this bit of water it seems, is something that goes way back into prehistory. A few miles inland, the village of Welton is worth an explore, especially the Green Dragon pub. This is

DISCOVER The Yorkshire Wolds Way

where the legendary highwayman Dick Turpin (then going by the name John Palmer) was arrested, before being imprisoned and later hanged. Just north of Brantingham there’s a deliciously forested valley, where a mix of deciduous and evergreen trees cloak the hill as you climb, and once at the top of Ellerker North Wold the track into the lower sections of Woo Dale stretches before you, stirring something deep within. This is, I think, the first inkling of the true loveliness of the trail. Everything is soft and green and the hills are plump, as if justly content with their quiet existence. Further north, after passing the high ground crowned by High Hunsley Beacon, it’s not long till the delights of Swin Dale. Utterly beautiful, the broad dry valley bottom here is given over to a crop, the steep sides of the valley are for grazing, small blocks of woodland break up the bareness, and in late spring, flowers line the chalk path as it flows along the vale in place of what would normally be a river or stream. The dale is smooth, open and

<PQ[ Q[° \PM ÅZ[\ QVSTQVO WN \PM true “ loveliness WN \PM \ZIQT -^MZa\PQVO Q[ soft IVL green IVL \PM PQTT[ IZM XT]UX ” calm, and by this stage of the walk I predict you’ll be well on your way to falling in love with this tranquil part of the world. Still heading north, the path splits to offer a choice of route near Market Weighton. One option heads into this historic market town, whose charter was granted in the 1200s. The path traces a section of dismantled railway track, piggy-backing on another trail called the Hudson Way, named after the engineer who built this part of the line. Logistics are always important on a long walk so the town walk might prove tempting. The other option heads close to Riﬂe Butts Quarry, a local wildlife trust reserve important for the geological sequencing exposed on the quarried face, and X

S PALE WAY

The chalky path etches an alluring white line down the curving green slopes of Nettle Dale.

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WHAT WORLD? Walk along the ﬂoor of Swin Dale, enclosed in green, and the world beyond will seem a million miles away.

The path swoops into dale after dale, “ their names evocations of a time long gone and long stood still.”

S ‘ENCLOSURE

RITES’

Pale ﬁgures, part of a sculpture at Knapton Brow by artist Jony Easterby. stand above a vast view of the Vale of Pickering.

T SOIL PROFILE

Fairy Dale shows off the classic ﬂatﬂoored angles of a dry chalkland valley.

home to some rather lovely wildlife including many chalk grassland butterﬂies. You need a permit to explore, but you can get an idea of the place as you pass by. The routes merge again in the well-kept, almost annoyingly perfect, grounds of Londesborough Park. On and on the wolds go in their sinuously extravagant way. When looked at in its entirety on a large-scale map, the trail creates a line the shape of a ﬂexed longbow, with north still my general direction. The Wilberforce Way, Chalkland Way and Minster Way all try to commit long-distance path robbery on the Wolds Way; in fact the Ordnance Survey map gets really quite confusing as you pass east of Pocklington and start the best section of the trail. It seems everyone wants to get in on a piece of the action. The path swoops into dale after dale, their names evocations of times long gone and long stood still. It’s above Millington Dale, after crossing a Roman road, that the path uses almost a mile of a prehistoric earthwork. History is piled up on top of itself out here, a bit like those long-distance footpaths.

74 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

Nettle Dale is crossed, then it’s high along the side of Pasture Dale, past Cow Dale, down into Horse Dale, along Holm Dale, through Fridaythorpe Village, and on between West Dale and Brubber Dale. On the path goes, up and across a lane, and down into the long and beautiful Thixendale. The wolds and dales seem like they’ll never end; walking doesn’t get much better than this. And Deep Dale, a few miles north, holds what is for me the highlight of the whole walk: the deserted medieval settlement of Wharram Percy where the still-standing, rooﬂess St. Martins church has outlived its village by 400 years. The area is intimate and shrouded in trees, yet open enough to climb up and get a view back down. The river, unusually for the area, emerges from a spring just south of the village site and it’s this addition of water that gives the location a lusciousness. By now, you’ll be wishing you lived here 500 years ago, deep in the folds of the wolds. Where the way turns to the east and starts its inevitable pull towards the sea and its conclusion, there’s a sculpture. It’s one of a series on display in the wolds – a short way north-east of Wintringham,

DISCOVER The Yorkshire Wolds Way

The Road Across The Wolds This part of Britain isn’t totally overlooked; it’s long been a muse for one of the world’s most famous artists. Born in Bradford in 1937, David Hockney’s work is renowned around the globe and in 2018 his painting, Portrait of an Artist (Pool with Two Figures), sold at auction for $90.3m, the highest price ever fetched for a work by a living artist. Hockney has spent much of his life in California, but has always returned regularly to Yorkshire, particularly in the Noughties when he could be spotted with easel and paints by the laneside. His fascination with the Wolds began in childhood when he spent summers working on a farm near Huggate and the biggest painting he’s ever produced – the 15 feet by 40 feet Bigger Trees Near Warter – was painted nearby one winter, on 50 individual canvases. Another series was painted even closer to the Yorkshire Wolds Way – Three Trees Near Thixendale – which captures the same trio of trees in spring, summer, autumn and winter. See the trees at SE868622 and ﬁnd a host of Hockney locations at www.yocc.co.uk

close to the site of an old earthwork, one called ‘Enclosure Rites’ sits looking out to the west. It’s a circular pool ﬂanked by wooden stakes, and gets you thinking about the parcelling up of ‘our’ land. After the closeness of the wolds and dales, the vastness of this view, reminds you things are changing in the walk, just as they did to the land all those years ago. Up on the tops of the wolds, tumuli and earthworks abound, as the route makes the most of the last high ground before it reaches Filey. The town is a pleasant shock, with Filey Bay arcing miles to the south. Trail end is at the very north of the beach, in the country park at the start of Filey Brigg. Several stone blocks have been arranged into a sculpture that looks a little like a sailing boat, with a nationaltrail acorn recessed in the sail to mark the meeting of the Yorkshire Wolds Way and the Cleveland Way. The official trail stops here, but you must go out along the rocky arm of Filey Brigg, and if the tide is low you can beachcomb along the foot of its cliffs. This walk started with the Humber Bridge spanning that vast estuary, and it ends out as far as the tide will allow, out amongst the waves.

S DESERTED

DALE

The shell of the church at the lost village of Wharram Percy survives, four centuries after the last villager left.

T TAKE

THE CAKE

One legend says Filey Brigg is the bones of a vicious dragon, drowned by locals when it went to the sea to wash parkin cake from between its teeth.

Plan your trip Many walkers hike the Yorkshire Wolds Way over six days as follows: from Hessle to South Cave (13 miles) to Market Weighton or Goodmanham (12 miles) to Millington (8½ miles) to Thixendale (12 miles) to Sherburn (19 miles) and Filey (17 miles). There are some long days, but that’s a testament to the beguiling ruralness of the route, and the terrain is generally undulating rather than exhaustingly steep. There’s an excellent website at nationaltrail.co.uk/en_GB/ trails/yorkshire-wolds-way/ with route information, suggestions for circular and linear walks to try the trail, and an interactive map with places to stay and eat. It also has a list of baggage transfer companies who can carry your bags from stop to stop, and companies like Contours Holidays (contours.co.uk) who can arrange everything including accommodation for you.

Andy Goldsworthy, Andy deserves a chapter to himself as he’s the UK’s leading proponent of ‘blimey, what’s that doing there?’ landscape art. Born in Cheshire, raised in Yorkshire and now resident in Dumfries and Galloway, he creates works ranging from tiny rock-stacks (a phenomenon he is credited with inventing) to enormous arches, using materials that come from the immediate area he is working in – everything from pinecones to icicles. His best known works are: Striding Arches: A quartet of red sandstone arches near Moniaive in Dumfries and Galloway. One is attached to The Byre at Cairnhead, the others are on the surrounding summits of Bail Hill (left), Colt Hill and Benbrack (we don’t mind revealing the locations as they’re marked on OS Explorer maps by name). Sheepfolds: A series of 48 formerly derelict sheepfolds across Cumbria, which Andy transformed into artworks that play with concepts of form and function, with twisty walls and rotated angles, such as the Touchstone fold at Tilberthwaite near Coniston. There’s a complete list of the locations at sheepfoldscumbria. co.uk Taking a Wall for a Walk: Possibly Andy’s most famous work (right); a fabulously bendy drystone wall which winds serpentlike among the trees at Breasty Haw on the Grizedale Forest Sculpture Trail in Cumbria. grizedale sculpture.org

Track down the hidden artworks lurking in our landscape, waiting for your critical eye… WORDS: NICK HALLISSEY

PHOTO: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

PHOTO: SOUTH WEST IMAGES SCOTLAND/ALAMY

VARIOUS LOCATIONS

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

HE PHRASE landscape art might make you think of big canvases by the likes of Turner or Constable, sitting under pools of reverent light in a gallery somewhere. But some artists interpret the words literally, by turning the landscape into a gallery itself. Across Britain’s countryside there are thousands of art installations waiting to be discovered. The majority are part of established art trails or sculpture gardens. But here we celebrate the ones that are really out there; the ones that take a bit of ﬁnding, and are free to access. In most cases we won’t give the game away as the whole idea is for you to track them down, but we’ll give you a few clues that might set you on your way. Let’s go.

Eat for England,

The Nuba Survival, OXFORDSHIRE

Think it’s odd to find a 15ft tall spoon wedged into a field? Artist Bob Budd didn’t, which is why he put one in a field near Cramlington in 2006. After all, said Bob, fields are where our food comes from, so why shouldn’t we symbolise that with a spoon? You can find its location with a bit of Googling (clue: you might want to start from a pub called the Bay Horse on the A189) but Bob’s desire was for people to come across it by accident. “If it was supposed to be easy to find, I’d have put it in the middle of Cramlington,” said Bob. “It’s a carrot to entice people into the countryside.”

This haunting installation stands by a derelict barn on the edge of a ﬁeld between Woodcote and Checkendon; look for Payables Farm on the OS map and you’ll be getting close. There’s no plaque explaining it and it’s not on a right of way, but it’s marked on Google Maps and an unofficial ﬁeld-edge path leads to it from Main Street. The piece was created by artist John Buckley (best known for his sculpture of a 25ft shark embedded in a house roof in Headington, Oxford) and pays tribute to the tribes of the Nuba Mountains in northern Sudan, which have been pushed to the very edge of survival by 30 years of civil war in the region.

NORTHUMBERLAND

PHOTO: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

76 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

DISCOVER Art in the landscape

The Panopticons, LANCASHIRE These might just be our favourites: four astonishing installations on high points at the western edge of the Pennines. The most impressive are Tonkin Liu’s Singing Ringing Tree (right) on Crown Point above Burnley (a tree made of metal pipes which sings as the wind blows through it) and John Kennedy’s Halo at Top o’ Slate above Rossendale, which resembles a ﬂying saucer and lights up in stunning turquoise neon at night. There are great walks to all of them; ﬁnd out more at bit.ly/panopticonslancs

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

The Eden Benchmarks,

Stanza Stones, PENNINES In 2010, the Ilkley Literature Festival asked poet Simon Armitage to create a series of six poems responding to the landscape of the Pennine Watershed, which were then inscribed into stones at six points along the watershed by letter-carver Pip Hall. They’re still up there today. Their locations aren’t exactly top secret; they are marked on OS maps with the word ‘Stone’ in blue, and you can download a leaﬂet with walks to each one as well as a 47-mile trail linking all of them together. But Simon said the aim wasn’t to create something everyone could go straight to; rather for people to seek them out, take in the message of each stone, and become part of the landscape while doing so. The stones and their poems each focus on a different aspect of water – Puddle, Dew, Rain, Mist, Snow and Beck – and rough locations include Ilkley Moor (which has three of them), Nab Hill near Oxenhope, and Pule Hill above Simon’s hometown of Marsden. You can download the leaﬂet at ilkleyliteraturefestival.org.uk

CUMBRIA

And ﬁnally… PHOTO: COPPERFIELD GALLERY

PHOTO: ROB FORD/ALAMY

Here’s an artwork that’s so well hidden, no one knows where it is. In 2015, artist Oscar Santillan provoked outrage by nicking a stone off the summit of Scafell Pike – England’s highest peak – and mounting it in a London gallery, titled The Intruder. His point was to show the impermanent nature of the universe by fractionally changing the height of a nation. Cumbria Tourism demanded its return, but the exhibition is long gone and it’s not known what happened to the stone. Perhaps Andy Goldsworthy can build a replacement.

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PHOTO: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

The Benchmarks are ten stone sculptures along the River Eden, from its source above the Mallerstang valley to its outﬂow into the Solway Firth. They were created by individual artists in 1996 as part of a visual arts celebration, and still stand in their stunning locations to this day. Our favourites are Mary Bourne’s Water Cut (above), which looks down over the river from the slopes of Mallerstang Edge, and Victoria Brailsford’s beautiful Red River, hewn into the sandstone mini-cliffs on a bend in the Eden at Temple Sowerby. Find out more about the ideas behind them (and their exact locations) at edenbenchmarks.org.uk

They may not be part of Lakeland’s cool gang of big hills, but the outlying fells are quirky, charming and oh so quiet. WORDS & PHOTOS: JAMES FORREST

T’S CLEAR THE Lake District National Park is going to be a busy place this summer, as everyone plans a triumphant post-lockdown return to the fells. The Wainwrights in particular – the ever-popular 214 peaks from Alfred Wainwright’s seven-book series A Pictorial Guide To The Lakeland Fells – will be teeming with keen fell-baggers. But there are another 116 Wainwrights on

FAR OUT. . . On the western edge of the national park, Muncaster Fell is a quiet spot with just the kind of nobblybobbly Lakeland views you’ve been missing.

a lesser-known list, ones Alfred called the Lake District ‘infants’. Published eight years after he ﬁnished his best-selling series, The Outlying Fells Of Lakeland was Wainwright’s round-up of ‘the foothills of Lakeland, the minor eminences around the perimeter, the little bumps we never bothered about before’. Yet far from being boring and uninspiring, he found them delectable, pronouncing conﬁdently

‘a summit cairn at 1000ft can be just as exciting as one at 3000ft’. Last year, in a bid to dodge the busiest peaks, I walked almost all of these outlying fells. From wellknown peaks such as Orrest Head, where a young Wainwright ﬁrst set eyes on the Lake District, to obscure hills I’d never heard of before, it was a wonderful experience, both beautiful and tranquil – and these are six of the best.

DISCOVER Lakeland’s Outlying Fells

Muncaster Fell GRID REF: SD113982

OUR LAKELAND GUIDE James Michael Forrest is a British adventurer, hiker and author best known for climbing all 1001 mountains across the UK and Ireland in the fastest known time. Read about his inspirational journey from bored office worker to intrepid adventurer in his book Mountain Man.

There aren’t many hills with a castle, heritage railway, Roman road and monument to a 15th-century monarch all on their doorstep – but that’s exactly what you get with Muncaster Fell. It’s a hill enriched with ample historical interest and quirky features, ensuring a day out like no other. To squeeze everything in, start in Ravenglass and ride the lovinglynamed La’al Ratty steam train – part of the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, one of the oldest narrow gauge railways in England – to The Green station. Head south-west and it won’t be long before you’re ambling the long, undulating ridge of Muncaster Fell by foot, sticking (in part) to the line of a Roman road that once linked the naval fort of Glannoventa on the coast to the garrison of Hardknott further inland. After bagging Hooker Crag summit (757ft) and descending to Muncaster Tarn, a short detour east will unveil an unexpected monument. A three-storey,

octagonal tower, which is slightly hidden on private land, marks the spot where Henry VI was found by shepherds, wandering after the Battle of Towton in 1461. And now all that’s left is for you to wander south-west back to Ravenglass, stopping off along the way for a good old laugh (hopefully) with the jester at Muncaster Castle – the only historic house in the UK to still appoint an official ‘Fool’. But it’d be wrong to give the impression Muncaster Fell is uninteresting in its own right. Its commanding summit offers superlative views of Harter Fell, Green Crag and the River Esk estuary, while the traverse amongst the heather, bilberry, gorse and bracken of the rolling ridgeline is delectable. ‘Here is enchantment’ wrote Wainwright – and he wasn’t wrong. WALK HERE: Turn to Walk 17 in this issue for a turn-by-turn route guide.

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Stickle Pike GRID REF: SD212927

Poised and elegant, yet imbued with a ruggedness belying its lowly stature, Stickle Pike has a delightfully pyramidal profile. Like a child’s drawing of a triangular mountain, its upper reaches taper neatly to a sharp peak – and they do so in a sudden eruption of fierce crags and splintered rocks, above a sea of fluffy ferns. At just 1231ft, Stickle Pike almost feels like a muscular, hard-won mountain – a ‘budding Matterhorn’, as Alfred put it – in the body of a welcoming, easy-to-summit hill. It’s a small fell with the heart of a big one. Yet for all of the snarling and intrigue, Stickle Pike has a kinder underbelly. The gnarly exterior is a charade. It’s a mountain-in-miniature that’ll make you feel like an intrepid explorer, but without the hardship, danger or exhaustion. Located to the east of the River Duddon and south-west of the Old Man of Coniston, in a remote corner of Lakeland between Coniston Water and Eskdale, the Dunnerdale Fells are a chaotic jumble of ups and downs, craggy protrusions and bracken-covered slopes, tiny tarns and tumbling ghylls. They are best approached from the village of Broughton Mills, in a 5-mile circular over five outlying fells: Great

Stickle (1001ft), Tarn Hill (1020ft), Stickle Pike, a nameless summit (1183ft) – frustratingly there are a lot of these in the 116-strong list – and The Knott (925ft). It’s as awe-inspiring and dramatic as Lakeland hiking gets without heading to the honeypot areas.

Gorgeous empty views near The Knott, one of ﬁve mini-summits on this ﬁve-mile walk. T GREAT

WALK HERE: Download your free Dunnerdale Horseshoe route guide at walk1000miles.co.uk/ bonusroutes

It’s a mountain-in-miniature that’ll “ make you feel like an intrepid explorer, but without the hardship, danger or exhaustion.

”

S TAKE FIVE

PYR AMID

The upper slopes of Stickle Pike rise to a perfect conical summit.

DISCOVER Lakeland’s Outlying Fells

Watch Hill GRID REF: NY149318

From the summit of Watch Hill, you can almost imagine William Wordsworth’s creativity being stirred by the views across the Vale of Lorton towards the Buttermere fells: the shapely rise and fall of Mellbreak, the domineering bulk of Grasmoor, the distinctive dome of Red Pike and the shattered crags of High Stile. On the outskirts of the market town of Cockermouth, birthplace of the Romantic poet, Watch Hill rises gently to a long, low ridge of scant visual appeal. The hill may be unremarkable to look at, but once on its grassy upper slopes everything changes. Watch Hill is aptly-named: it’s an ideal place for watching over – surveying with a mix of studious rigour and heartfelt admiration – the distant high fells. There’s a lot to see – the Skiddaw group, Watson’s Dodd, Lord’s Seat, Grisedale Pike,

Hopegill Head, Whiteside, Great Borne and the Loweswater fells to name but a few. You won’t be on an official Wainwright, but you’ll certainly feel amongst them. The best way to tackle Watch Hill is to combine it with a wander around Cockermouth. Starting on Main Street, step back into the 1770s with a tour of Wordsworth House – the childhood home of William and his sister Dorothy – before grabbing a ﬂat white at The Moon & Sixpence coffee shop. From here it’s a short road walk past Cockermouth Castle to the base of Watch Hill. Beyond is a simple grassy stroll to the 771ft summit, before a looping return via Setmurthy Woods – a walk so simple ‘boots are incongruous footwear’, as Wainwright put it. WALK HERE: Download your free route guide to this six-mile walk at walk1000miles.co.uk/ bonusroutes

T FIELD

TO FELL

Looking towards Grasmoor and the Buttermere Fells from Watch Hill, ‘a stroll on grass’ that Wainwright described as ‘bare feet appropriate’.

Whiteside Pike GRID REF: NY520015

The rolling grassy fells between Shap and Kendal are blissfully quiet. Tramping these pathless uplands feels like you’re in the south Pennines, not the Lake District, and their real appeal is the palpable sense of remoteness. Some ﬁnd the fells boring and featureless, if not downright desolate; others see only a secretive, forgotten tract of Lakeland charm. For a full day’s circular walk, there are plenty of options in this area: the Crookdale, Wet Sleddale and Wasdale Horseshoes are all excellent leg stretches, but perhaps better still is the Bannisdale Horseshoe. This lofty skyline hike circumnavigates Bannisdale Beck, sticking to the smoothly-rippling ridges of tufty tussocks and sinewy grass. The classic 11-mile route, which starts just off the A6 to the north-east of Garnett Bridge, ticks off nine outlying fells (three of them un-named tops), and the summits come thick and fast. As Wainwright put it: ‘everywhere is grassy...and featureless, one mile being very much like the next except for the distinctive Whiteside Pike, a dark pyramid of

heather and bracken and outcrops of rock: much the most attractive part of the horseshoe and worth a visit even if one goes no further.’ Whiteside Pike (1302ft) is adorned with a tall, columnar cairn – a handsome, Jenga-like stack of stones – perched atop a rocky rib emerging from the mountainside. It is as dramatic as the Bannisdale Horseshoe gets, and a wonderful spot to sit, sip on a ﬂask of coffee and soak up the tranquillity of these quiet upland prairies.

S SUMMITS: 9

PEOPLE : 0

Tick off Whiteside Pike, Todd Fell, Capplebarrow, Long Crag, White Howe, Lamb Pasture and three nameless tops on the Bannisdale Horseshoe.

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Knipescar Common GRID REF: NY526191

Off the beaten track and seldomtrodden, Knipescar Common feels like a quiet, hidden nook of Lakeland far removed from the hustle and bustle of the tourist hotspots. It’s also not very Lakeland-like in appearance, its horizontal band of limestone and ﬂat grassy plateau not in keeping with the classic local aesthetic. Located on the eastern extremity of the national park, to the north-east of Haweswater, Knipescar Common is a lofty limestone escarpment rising to 1118ft above the River Lowther valley. It consists of striated streaks of limestone outcrops topped by a green sward of grass, a table-like plateau of ﬂat terrain. Wainwright wrote of the latter: ‘The mile-long green terrace along the rim of the

ROCK BAND Main image: Knipescar Common is banded with limestone – a rarity in the Lake District. Inset: Out on the eastern edge of the national park, its views skyline over Harter Fell, High Street and Ill Bell.

Scar is a most delightful ramble.’ Knipescar Common is a really straightforward walk from the village of Bampton Grange, more of an afternoon bimble or an evening stroll than a fully-ﬂedged hike. It won’t take

you more than a couple of hours and the going is pretty easy throughout. But you’ll be tempted to stay for longer. If the sun is shining, the grassy summit is a great place for a ﬂask of tea or a leisurely lunchtime picnic. Simply

DISCOVER Lakeland’s Outlying Fells

The mile-long “ green terrace along the rim of the Scar is a most delightful ramble.

”

AW WA I N W R I G H T, T H E O U T LY I N G FELLS OF LAKELAND

choose your own patch of tufty grass, sit back and enjoy the scenery. Beyond Naddle Forest, you can ogle Selside Pike, Branstree, Harter Fell, Ill Bell, Mardale Ill Bell and High Street, and (surprisingly) you can even spot the distinctive outline of Blencathra far away to the north-west. WALK HERE: Download your free route guide at walk1000miles.co.uk/ bonusroutes

LITTLE GEM Just 730ft high, Wool Knott has a panorama to rival Lakeland’s biggest and best-known peaks.

Wool Knott GRID REF: SD272896

Even in the 1970s fellwalkers were searching for solitude in the Lake District fells – and Alfred Wainwright found it at Wool Knott. He wrote ‘no footmarks, no litter – this is a miniature wilderness where every explorer treads virgin ground’, a place joyously detached from the crowds of ‘walkers whose sights are set on higher targets’. That level of remoteness might not quite be attainable in 2021, but the unfrequented moors collectively known as Woodland Fell are certainly on the quieter side. Located to the south of Torver, in a triangular wedge of land between Coniston Water and Broughton in Furness, these fells are some of Wainwright’s favourite outliers. He waxed lyrical about the simple 5-mile, clockwise walk up Yew Bank (678ft) and Wool Knott (730ft), starting at Woodland Church. ‘It is a connoisseur’s piece, every step an uninhibited joy, every corner a delight’, he wrote, while recognising the high bracken and thick heather made progress a tad arduous in places. Strong walkers may wish to combine Yew Bank and Wool Knott with other nearby outlying fells. Burney (979ft), Blawith Knott (814ft), Tottlebank Height (775ft) and Beacon Fell (836ft) are all within touching distance and can easily be bagged in a far from impossible 13-miler. If you’ve got the energy, this is a superb route that’ll trick you into thinking you’re in the high fells. But don’t feel obliged. With fewer miles and less ascent, Yew Bank and Wool Knott will still serve up scenery worthy of a fellwalking connoisseur. JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 83

Paul’s walking no longer an uphill battle thanks to TURMERIC+ Walking is one of the most beneficial forms of exercise, and also one of the most underestimated in terms of well-being. It’s a great way to reach the recommended level of physical activity needed to stay healthy without the toll to joints, ligaments and muscles that more demanding sports exact. When taking longer walks however, some of us can experience skeletal and muscular discomfort. Paul Goddard, 62, a Nordic Walking instructor from Saffron Walden in Essex, swears by a product called Turmeric+ as an effective means of keeping him active. “I decided to become a Nordic Walking instructor in 2009 and started walking forty to fi fty miles a week. Two years ago it became uncomfortable to walk distances that should have been easy for someone of my age and fi tness levels. I felt very apprehensive as walking is not only my passion, but my business.” Paul continues: “I started doing some research. I learned that turmeric could be helpful and

bought supplements … and then stumbled upon Turmeric+.” Curcumin, the active ingredient in turmeric, is difﬁcult for the body to absorb, Some turmeric products offer high levels of curcumin but unless this is easily absorbed by the body, the higher amounts make little difference. The need for easy absorption is what led the scientists at FutureYou Cambridge to create Turmeric+ using the patented ‘Curcuma Phospholipid Complex’ formulation. It’s thirty times more absorbable than standard turmeric and contains vitamin C, which contributes to normal collagen formation for the normal function of cartilage.

“Soon after taking it I experienced that ‘light-bulb’ moment”

“Soon after taking it I experienced that ‘light-bulb’ moment - I realised my knees felt like they used to. I take Turmeric+ religiously now. I walk around two hundred miles a month and even my customers have remarked on my mobility. “Walking is great for ﬁ tness as well as your mental health. Being able to walk easily has made a huge difference to my life and I feel ﬁ tter now than I

did twenty years ago.” Adam Cleevely, CEO of FutureYou Cambridge comments; “We want to support more people to get active and we think Turmeric+ can play an important role in that journey. We have tens of thousands of happy Turmeric+ subscribers who regularly tell us about their positive stories, just like Paul.”

CLAIM YOUR FREE SUBSCRIPTION TRIAL TODAY

Try Turmeric+ before you buy it FutureYou Cambridge, the nutraceutical company known for its science-backed health supplements, is offering new customers the chance to try its ﬂagship product, Turmeric+, for just the cost of the £1.50 postage.* Turmeric+ was developed in Cambridge with the backing of a scientiﬁc advisory board including luminaries such as Dr Nicholas Shenker, a leading rheumatologist and chronic pain expert

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at Cambridge University Hospitals NHS Foundation Trust (Addenbrooke’s). The formulation is thirty times more absorbable than standard turmeric, and also contains vitamin C which contributes to normal collagen formation for the normal function of cartilage. Since launching the product the company has continually received positive feedback from happy customers, particularly on Trustpilot, the independent online review platform. ‘As far as I’m concerned this stuff is magic... Highly recommend!’ wrote one 5 star

reviewer. ‘The product appears to meet all its promises and the service levels from FutureYou are first class,’ said another. ‘We’re very happy to give people their first pack for free so they can experience it for themselves,’ says Adam Cleevely, the company’s CEO. ‘It might sound bonkers but it really isn’t. We’re that confident in the effectiveness of our formulation. ‘I can’t think of a better way to convince people. If they like it, they will stick with it. Tens of thousands of customers already do.’

To claim your free 28 day Turmeric+ subscription trial pack worth £16.80, visit FutureYouOffers.co.uk or freephone 0800 808 5740 quoting code TF705 If it’s not for you, simply cancel your subscription at any time, without obligation. Discount valid until 31st July 2021. Turmeric+ contains vitamin C which contributes to normal collagen formation for the normal function of cartilage and bones. New UK customers only. One free trial per household. Your ﬁrst box is free (Just pay £1.50 postage) and you will be enrolled into a ﬂexible subscription (£16.80 every 28 days). We regret but we cannot take payment for this offer by cheque. You can stop deliveries at any time without obligation. See website for more information on our subscription service. Turmeric+ from FutureYou Cambridge should be consumed as part of a healthy and balanced diet and lifestyle. If you are taking any prescribed medication or have any medical conditions always consult your doctor or pharmacist before taking vitamins or supplements. Trial pack promotion cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotions.

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Decathlon is reducing its environmental impact through Eco-Design. Here’s what that means.

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Using recycled polyester to create innovative new products.

BITON The main impact of dyeing comes from the rise in certain CO2 emissions from the high temperature that is required, making the whole process

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 87

The criteria for Eco-Design

Decathlon volunteers collecting plastic waste on a hike in the hills.

To ensure we stay true to this ethos, our design teams have pinpointed two key targets, of which at least one needs to be met for each project. 1. When compared to their previous model, a product’s environmental impact must decrease by at least 10% on at least two of the following indicators: climate change, air pollution, water pollution, and resource depletion. AND/OR 2. They must fulﬁl at least one of our design actions. For example, at least 70% of the weight of the product might be made from recycled polyester, a fabric made of at least 90% cotton that has been recycled from organic farming or recycled cotton. And/or the product could be made using the dope dyeing or Biton processes.

88 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

FIND THE FULL RANGE OF DECATHLON WALKING GEAR AT WWW.DECATHLON. CO.UK

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Our Eco-Design hiking products

Quechua women’s NH500 Country Walking Shorts

Quechua NH550 20-Litre Country Walking Backpack

Quechua Men’s MH500 Waterproof Mountain Jacket

Made with 95% recycled ﬁbres, including plastic bottles and second-hand textiles, we’ve eco-designed a pair of free-ﬂowing, ultra-comfy walking shorts that go the distance with you.

As well as being spacious, durable and adaptable for ﬁeld, coast and mountain hikes, the NH500 has an undyed interior and only partially dyed exterior, signiﬁcantly reducing water consumption in its manufacturing.

A trekking favourite developed in the foothills of Mont Blanc, this has now been redesigned with optimal weight and material consumption, reducing its CO2 impact by 31% compared to its previous version.

Forclaz Women’s Trek 500 Merino Wool T-Shirt

Quechua Men’s MH100 Mountain Walking Fleece

Warm, soft, breathable, and made with ethically-sourced, undyed fabric, our long-sleeved hiking tops allow you to enjoy all the beneﬁts of merino wool in a way that’s 25% kinder to our planet.

Created with recycled polyester made from plastic water bottles and coloured using the dope dying process that helps reduce water pollution, Quechua’s lightweight, warm MH100 ﬂeece is perfect for wrapping up and reconnecting with the great outdoors.

Decathlon currently has over 500 Eco-Design products and we don’t plan on stopping there. With our teams of expert technicians consistently learning more and more about the challenges of climate change and resource depletion we’ve set out to achieve 100% product development with an Eco-Design approach by 2026.

Sustainability is much bigger than Decathlon and nobody will succeed alone. That’s why we believe in working together. Next time you’re looking for a new bit of kit, take a moment to consider its impact. We are working hard to reduce our own impact and with your help, we can succeed in our mission to protect our playground.

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 89

PHOTO: TOM BAILEY

Taking it further

-`XMZ\ IL^QKM WV \PM SQ\ \PI\ UISM[ I LQЄMZMVKM YOUR COMPLETE BUYING GUIDE TO

OUR TESTERS Country Walking always tests products for both men and women. Our reviewers Matthew Pike and Sarah Ryan have notched up thousands of miles on foot, so they know the value of good kit at the right price. Neither had to travel far to do these tests, as they live on the fringes of Snowdonia and the Peak District respectively.

WALKING LEGWEAR

90 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

About our reviews We’ve chosen a dozen pairs that cover a whole range of what’s on offer, from trousers and softshells to leggings and shorts. All 12 should be widely available online and in shops when we go to print, and pink and blue dots ( ) will indicate the gender each pair is available in. We don’t pick an overall winner, as no single option will suit every walker in all conditions and terrains, but Matthew and Sarah have each chosen a Tester’s Choice that they particularly loved.

WHAT’S THE ‘TARGET PRICE’? Shop around and you’ll probably ﬁnd the gear we review on sale for less than the RRP. Our Target Prices are the lowest prices we could ﬁnd from reputable retailers (high street and online) at the time of going to press.

PHOTOGRAPHY: TOM BAILEY

IRST OF ALL, apologies for the word ‘legwear’. We know it’s horrible. Trouble is, there are so many options for a walker when it comes to covering their lower half that it’s about the only word we can use. Of everything in the gear world, legwear is perhaps the most personal and sensitive. Waist sizes, hips, leg lengths: these are all very personal considerations, and getting a product that ﬁts well and responds to the conditions and terrain can be a tricky challenge. And of course, your needs change. Sometimes you’re looking for light, airy shorts for a coast path in June. Sometimes you need tough, stretchy cargo pants for a day in the mountains. Sometimes you want the lightest possible option; sometimes you need something that’ll keep a full day’s rain off your thighs. So instead of just looking at ‘trousers’ we’re doing the whole train-ride from summer shorts to waterproofs, calling at leggings, zip-offs, capris and soft shells. Whatever your preference, whatever your size and shape, and whatever the weather’s doing, there should be something here to suit your needs for every occasion. So read on, and ﬁnd your happy place in the strange world of legwear. Damn, we said ‘legwear’ again. Ah well, let’s move on.

Buying Guide Walking Legwear

SO WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR?

WALKING TROUSERS

SOFTSHELL TROUSERS

WATERPROOF TROUSERS

Great all-rounders and suitable for most conditions – and a lot more versatile and weather-responsive than jeans. They’re usually lightweight, quick-drying, water- and UV-repellent, flexible and made from durable fabric. Look for abrasion resistance; they should withstand brambles and protect you from nettle stings. They lack refinement and can be flappy round the ankle, but as the reasonably priced all-rounder, they’re likely to be your go-to favourites.

Pricier, more sophisticated, and often designed speciﬁcally for hillwalking, softshells are the technical upgrade that often makes a big difference – especially when the terrain and the weather get tough. They’re hardy and water-resistant but also stretchy, which makes them great for steep ascents (especially stepped paths) and scrambles. Look for articulation around the knee-joint and a close ﬁt round the ankle. May be too hot in very warm weather, though.

We’re not talking crinkly overtrousers here, but trousers that are designed to be worn from start to ﬁnish on persistently wet days. A good pair will have a waterproof membrane topped off with DWR (Durable Water Repellent) treatment to keep the rain out, usually with a tight waistline and secure ankle cuffs to prevent the wet seeping in. They should also be breathable. Not the most comfy on drier days, and likely to be hotter and heavier than normal walking trousers.

CONVERTIBLE TROUSERS

SHORTS

LEGGINGS & CAPRIS

Also known as zip-offs, these are a dream come true for the indecisive walker, or if the weather’s changeable. Wearing these is easier (and less intrusive) than carrying spare shorts in your bag and changing halfway through. They’re not usually quite as comfortable as wearing regular walking trousers, and you need to a) not misplace the leg-sleeves and b) be okay with the somewhat faffy process of reattaching them afterwards.

As you’d expect, they’re lightweight, comfortable and the coolest way to travel in hot weather. They’re only really suitable when it’s warm, and offer no protection against the likes of nettles, brambles, midges and ticks, so best avoided if heading into wilder countryside. They may have UV protection and you can even get soft shell shorts – but you might think it odd to give all that protection to the upper legs when your shins and calves are fully exposed.

Leggings have a tight ﬁt with breathable fabric that wicks moisture from your legs. Stretchy, responsive and warm. You don’t usually get pockets, so you can’t store things like phone, purse or wallet easily, and some walkers won’t like the anatomically precise ﬁt. Capris are mainly aimed at women, and are cool, light and stretchy – and they’re especially good for paddling.

TURN OVER TO READ THE REVIEWS… JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 91

WALKING TROUSERS

SOFTSHELL

ALPKIT Teleki

ROHAN Lowland

MONTANE Terra Route Pants

RRP £40 Target price £28 The Teleki pants are a bargain: a great pair of summer hillwalking trousers, light enough to keep you cool but weatherresistant enough to fend off summit winds and scattered showers. There’s no DWR coating, but the weave is so close and the nylon fibres are so naturally water-resistant that light-tomoderate rain beads off them anyway. A touch of stretch in the fabric and articulated knees improves movement. They’re not the most flexible trousers, but there’s enough to take the bother out of high steps and light scrambling. The fit is neat and Alpine, which looks smart and avoids flappiness at the lower leg in high winds. The waistband isn’t elasticated, which adds to the smart look but means you’ll need to make sure you get a precise fit in the store. But the waistband is mesh-lined for maximum breathability, as are the five pockets (the usual four, plus one zipped on the thigh). In many ways, the simplicity of these trousers is their greatest strength. Light and stretchy enough to move easily in; protective enough for threeseason use in the high hills. A fantastic option and a total steal. SR

RRP £75 Target price £75 The first thing to note about these is the stretchiness. The elasticated waistband has plenty of give, and all over it’s a close fit that feels great: liberating but not loose; snug but not constricting. The material is happy to stretch with me in any direction, and I only felt it pulling back a tad when taking the longest of strides. They’re lightweight and they don’t take long to dry off (even after the ankles became saturated from an unintentionally deep bog exploration). They’re also breathable enough to feel cool even after climbing on a warm day. Two of the pockets (on the thigh and bum) are zipped, which is handy for keeping valuables safe. The hip pockets aren’t zipped, but are tight enough that nothing’s likely to fall out. There’s also a security pocket, which is great for keys and cash, but not quite big enough to hide your wallet and phone. The tight nature of the trousers means pocket items can look bulky, particularly in the thigh pocket. But overall, these are a pleasure to wear. I’d happily don them on all but the chilliest days of winter and I’d be confident of making good speedy progress while doing so. MP

RRP £90 Target price £75 Montane’s Terra range features some of the most tried and trusted walking trousers you can buy, and this new softshell variant certainly doesn’t let the side down because these are excellent. They’re comfy, stretchy and never constrictive, regardless of stride length or gradient. I also felt protected – they kept my legs warm in a biting wind, and the strong nylon enabled me to walk through a patch of brambles without even feeling the thorns. They come with a belt, too – always a bonus. The waistband is lined with microﬂeece, which makes long walks more comfy. At the other end, a zip and popper provide a simple way to adjust the hem without any tangle-prone cords. There are three zipped pockets, all a decent size, plus a small security pocket which is so neatly hidden, it took me some time to discover it. The price is on the high side, but there’s no questioning the sophistication and durability you’re paying for. If you’re looking to invest in some trousers that are strong, comfortable in a range of conditions and built to last, the Terra Routes should certainly be on your radar. MP

INFO: Sizes: 8-18 (short/reg/long) Fabric: 96% Nylon, 4% Spandex Weight: 227g Contact: 01773 417007, alpkit.com

INFO: Sizes: 32–40 (short & long), 30–42 (reg) Fabric: 94% polyamide, 6% elastane Weight: 309g Contact: 0800 840 1412, rohan.co.uk

INFO: Sizes: S–XXL (reg) Fabric: 88% nylon, 12% elastane Weight: 444g Contact: 01670 522300, montane.com

Lightweight, ﬂexible, breathable, comfy.

Very comfortable and strong, offering great protection.

–

Lack of adjustability at the waist.

–

Pocket items can feel and look a bit bulky.

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A little expensive (but worth it).

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

##### ##### ##### #####

BEST FOR: Warm days up high.

92 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

##### ##### ##### #####

BEST FOR: Agile adventures in any terrain in mild weather.

RATINGS

Light fabric, clean and simple ﬁt, reasonable price.

RATINGS

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

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BEST FOR: Long hikes and mountain walks in all but the warmest weather.

Buying Guide Walking Legwear TROUSERS

WATERPROOF TROUSERS

OEX Strata Softshell Trousers

SPRAYWAY All Day Rainpant

PÁRAMO Cascada II

RRP £99 Target price £60 These are some of the best-fitting trousers I’ve worn, with plenty of room around the hips and bum, a neat fit at the waist and a lightweight belt. This is quite a big deal in women’s trousers, which are almost impossible to get right thanks to our infinite number of body shapes. These sit quite high, straight across the belly button, which keeps the lower back warm and means your shirt stays easily tucked in. Another thing I was delighted to find are the reinforced calf and knee patches, which give extra protection when scrambling. The ripstop fabric has elastane for four-way stretch, allowing total freedom of movement, and the weight all round is about right for chilly mountain tops. Poppers at the ankle give the option of one- or two-inch adjustment, handy on wet or muddy days, but I’d like to be able to adjust them further sometimes. All three pockets have zip closure, with the rear one handy for a phone. A robust, well-fitting pair of versatile trousers, and well worth the investment (particularly as you’re likely to find them for a lot less than the RRP). SR

RRP £80 Target price £55 With a lack of really heavy rain lately, as well as taking these on long walks over Kinder Scout, I also took them on a short walk to the garden where they were thoroughly hosed down. About half the water beaded right off, and while patches of the outer fabric did wet out, this was undetectable, save a slight drop in temperature, on the inside. My legs remained totally dry. I’d be hesitant to rely on them entirely in the kind of dousing you can get on the west coast of Scotland, but on periodically showery days, they’d be fantastic. You do lose a touch of breathability though; I got slightly clammy towards the end of a very long walk. But they also function wonderfully as plain, simple walking trousers. The inner lining is soft and smooth and the outer slightly cottontextured – no shininess here. They’re also very comfortable, with an elasticated waistband, loose ﬁt and smidge of elastane making for easy movement. Both pockets are zipped; I missed having one on the thigh but that would prove a risk for water ingress, so its absence makes sense. All in all, a great between-seasons pant. SR

RRP: £155 Target price: £140 To wear the Cascadas, you need to be convinced that pitiless all-day rain lies ahead. But when that day comes, these may be the best friends you ever have. Warm, soft and fully waterproof thanks to Nikwax’s Analogy fabric, these will keep you dry, cosy and striding on your merry way even though an absolute hooley is upon you. Perhaps their best use lies on multi-day treks, where your itinerary may force you to continue each day no matter what the weather is doing. You wouldn’t wear them every day because they’re so warm and heavy (521g) but on the rainy days, you’d wear them from dawn to dusk. They swish rather than rustle, and the huge zipvents provide welcome air when the rain stops. Amazingly, you don’t even feel the weight so much when wearing them (although you will if packing them, and being bulky, they will also take up a lot of precious space in your trekking pack). All this comes at a cost of course: these are very expensive. But if you’re a determined all-weather walker and you hate the rustly faff of overtrousers, an investment in the Cascadas will more than pay for itself over time. MP

INFO: Sizes: 6-18 Fabric: 89% polyester, 11% elastane. Weight: 475g Contact: 0330 008 1555, gooutdoors.co.uk

INFO: Sizes: 8-18 (short/reg/long) Fabric: 96% polyamide/4% elastane Weight: 371g Contact: 0161 366 5020, sprayway.com

INFO: Sizes: XS–XXXL Fabric: 100% polyester Weight: 521g Contact: 01892 786444, paramo-clothing.com

Comfort, convenience, no need to carry extra trousers.

Ultimate weather protection; warm interior.

–

No length options in the sizing.

–

Very slight clamminess on warm days, no thigh pocket.

–

Expensive; only for the very wettest of days.

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

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BEST FOR: Showery (typically British) days on the hill.

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

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BEST FOR: Day walks of all kinds, but especially good on hills.

RATINGS

Reinforced knees, stretch, ﬁt.

RATINGS

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

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BEST FOR: Days of non-stop rain; also multi-day treks. JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 93

CONVERTIBLE TROUSERS

SHO

RRP £40 Target price £40 Forclaz (as sold by Decathlon) are fond of long names; these are technically the Trek 500 Mountain Trekking Modular Trousers. As trousers, these are almost as good as the Rohans: they feel great through field and forest, offering robust protection against prickly bushes. All the pockets are zipped too. The ankletightening cord works well, enabling the trousers to fit snugly over my boots. The horizontal zips above the knee felt strange at first but I got used to it. But it’s the cleverness of the convertible system that really sells these. It wasn’t quite the closing scene from The Full Monty, but as my walk heated up, I removed the lower legs quickly and easily – largely thanks to the fact the zip continues vertically down the leg, meaning you don’t need to remove your boots, as you do with most zip-offs. And they work brilliantly as shorts. Reattaching is easy if you’re not wearing the trousers, but a bit fiddly if you’ve still got them on. (For a really faff-free option, check out their new stablemates the MH950: you don’t detach the lower legs at all, just tuck them into a hidden pocket on the thigh. Clever.) MP

JACK WOLFSKIN Activate Light Zip Off

COLUMBIA Summerdry Cargo Short

RRP £100 Target price £90 I have what you might call walker’s thighs, so I’m often wary of zip-offs because the zip usually means there isn’t a lot of stretch. But while these occasionally felt a little tight at the hem if crouching down, somehow, that problem doesn’t really materialise on the go. These are comfy and well thought out: the zip is trapped between two layers of hem, which prevents any abrasion and hides it from view in shorts mode. Their ﬁrst test was a river journey, traversing stepping stones, clambering over boulders and edging terrace paths. Never did I feel hindered. The stretch and ‘acrobat cut’ of the fabric allowed total freedom of movement. I felt cool and comfortable too, with help from the mesh-lined pockets. All are phonesized and the back and thigh pockets are also zipped, so the hip pockets are comfortable for your hands and you get security from the others too. When the temperature dropped and I came to zip on the legs, I found with relief that they were colour-coded. Another thoughtful touch in a very impressive product. SR

RRP £50 Target price £48 Assuming a good spritz of insect repellent on the legs, shorts are fantastic for walking. These are a ﬂattering length, short enough to get some sun on the pins, long enough to move without fearing for your modesty. They’re made with Columbia’s OmniShield fabric,which is super-lightweight and water-resistant. And if you do get them wet by, say, leaping into a tarn, they’ll dry off in no time. You also get a surprising number of handy pockets: three are large enough to take a phone; the rear one is zipped, and there are two short pockets on the thigh with Velcro fastening. I have no idea what you might realistically put in them. They’re about the size of a Mars bar so maybe that, but they are odd. My only other qualm is the belt, which tweaks to a just-right ﬁt but has a cheap-looking plastic buckle. It’s stitched into the shorts, running from hip-to-hip so you can’t take it off. Even so, these are brilliant summer adventure shorts. NB: They’re also available in navy or black, if this colour scheme’s a little frantic for your taste. SR

INFO: Sizes: 29–43 (length 33–34) Fabric: 100% polyamide Weight: 460g Contact: 0207 064 3000, decathlon.co.uk

INFO: Sizes: 6-18 Fabric: 94% polyamide, 6% elastane Weight: 299g Contact: 0800 9653 7546, jack-wolfskin.co.uk

INFO: Sizes: XS-XL (3” inseam) Fabric: 100% Nylon Weight: 134g Contact: 0800 464 0876, columbiasportswear.co.uk

FORCLAZ Trek 500

Great freedom of movement, great pockets.

Comfort; roomy pockets; ﬂattering length and cut.

–

Tricky to reattach lower legs with trousers still on.

–

Pricey; zips a little tight at the thigh.

–

Short, wide cargo pockets; stitched-in belt.

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

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BEST FOR: Changeable days when cold mornings become warm afternoons. 94 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

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BEST FOR: Long days with expected temperature changes.

RATINGS

Robust fabric, and lower legs are removed easily and quickly.

RATINGS

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

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BEST FOR: Summer trails and impromptu dips in the nearest tarn.

Buying Guide Walking Legwear RTS

LEGGINGS & CAPRIS

REGATTA Xert Stretch II Capris

FJALLRAVEN Abisko Trail Tights

RRP £50 Target price £35 It’s easy to think that shorts, being light and summery, will be flimsy. But not in this case. These have all the toughness and comfort of proper trekking pants, but with the liberation and exhilaration that comes with wearing shorts. They’re also rigorously practical: the removable belt is handy and easy to use, while the three pockets all have zips. The left pocket also doubles as a stuff sack, ingeniously. The waist is reasonably generous but the thighs are definitely on the tighter side, and are geared to a more athletic fit. Over flat ground, they are agile enough to allow a comfortable walking stride, but they feel a little restrictive when you try a longer stride (for example, over boulders or streams), and on steep hills they lack the flexibility I normally expect for high-knee exertions. In fairness, Rab do say these are designed for a ‘slim fit’, so you might want to try a size or two up from normal. It would definitely be worth trying this, because these are robust, breathable shorts that dry quickly when they get wet, and whose all-round build quality suggests they will last for many, many miles. MP

RRP £85 Target price £34 I struggled to find any negatives with these. The only thing I could think of improving would be to replace the toggle at the knee with a tie drawstring, to give them more street-to-summit versatility, but I had to really ponder that. Much easier to point out is what I like. First, the ease of movement. They’re made from Regatta’s stretchy Iso-Flex fabric so you can move anyway you want in them. I clambered up to Bamford Edge on their first outing and the only limitation was my own flexibility. That stretch really adds to the comfort. They’re elasticated at the hips which means they’re very comfortable without any restriction at the waist as the cinching all happens at the hipbones. There’s also a simple belt to adjust the fit, and toggled draw cords at the hem. Plus, all four pockets are zipped, including one on the thigh, which I use exclusively when scrambling. It removes any obstruction at the hip when taking high steps up and there’s no worry about that action pushing the phone out of the pocket. And they’re often sold for a lot less than the RRP, making them they’re a bargain. SR

RRP £155 Target price £140 Until they find a way to bionically reinforce your actual legs, these will do the job. They’re so close-fitting and comfortable that it feels almost like going around without any trousers on at all. And the freedom of movement is absolute. Yet they’re not uncomfortably tight – in fact, if you’re between sizes, I’d recommend sizing down. The wide, stretchy waistband spreads pressure across the waist, so there’s no feeling of digging in, and you get a drawstring for added security. The band is made with the same smooth, breathable material that you’ll find at the crotch and back of the thighs, providing great ventilation in. By contrast, the fabric at the bum and knees is reinforced with a toughened, high-stretch material. And then there are the pockets. One on each thigh, the left zipped, the right with a stretchy envelope closure. Both are big enough to easily take a phone, and I could even put an OS map (including its hardcover) in the one on the right, though I wouldn’t recommend it. So these are like yoga leggings for the mountains: close-fitting and comfortable; light yet protective and robust. SR

INFO: Sizes: S–XXL Fabric: 100% polyamide Weight: 235g Contact: 0800 808 5392, rab.equipment/uk

INFO: Sizes: 8-18 Fabric: 90% polyamide, 10% elastane Weight: 277g Contact: regatta.com

INFO: Sizes: XXS-XXL Fabric: 82% polyamide, 18% elastane. Weight: 244g Contact: 02392 528711, fjallraven.com

Comfort, stretch, ease of movement, zipped thigh pocket.

Freedom of movement, large pockets, reinforced patches.

–

Lack of ﬂexibility on inclines unless you size up.

–

Toggle design gives a very technical look.

–

Runs a little large.

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

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BEST FOR: Summertime walks for those favouring a close, athletic ﬁt.

RATINGS

Strong, durable, breathable; stuff sack pocket.

RATINGS

RAB Calient

COMFORT: WEATHERPROOFING: VENTILATION: VALUE FOR MONEY:

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BEST FOR: Warm weather scrambles and adventurous walks.

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BEST FOR: Adventurous days in the mountains. JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 95

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Last month’s answers

96 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

ACROSS 9 Give the jab to Alec – in and out, perhaps (9) 10 Poor leader loses footing in Hope Valley village (5) 11 Shakespearean character to return greeting (7) 12 Part of Loch Leven is one source of this meat? (7) 13 Lyme’s stone pier consisted of big boulders initially (4) 14 No grim cars spoiled these Scottish mountains (10) 17 Covered vehicle in dreadful rain – ideal state! (7) 18 Cumbrian peninsula might produce northern surfers? Not right! (7) 20 Ian Charles rambling in northern county (10) 23 Note return of town on the Thames Path (4) 25 Maybe its our Mike in the holiday business (7) 26 Garden bird or wasp moving around river (7) 28 English poet at head of Buttermere and Bassenthwaite? (5) 29 ‘King Richard I’ – poor hotel with terrible rain! (9)

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DOWN 1 2 3 4

Luxury car is reversing in two miles (4) Bachelor moving to Highland area (8) Seabird has young initially in ravine (5) Confuse Nora with a map, but ﬁnd wide unbroken view (8) 5 One of the cloth-workers making way in Norfolk! (6) 6 Green teas blended for the under-20s (9) 7 Back in power, a sea change for Roman emperor (6) 8 See 18 down 13 A clan reassembled – Caledonian, perhaps (5) 15 Girl goes south to the States, then north (5) 16 See endless amazing changes with publications like Country Walking (9) 18 & 8 down Tense off-road diversion in Gloucestershire woodland (6,2,4) 19 Next real change on the outside (8) 21 Chewy sweet got Una in trouble (6) 22 Hotel, then leisurely walk to Hampshire river (6) 24 We leave West Ham muddled by school subject… (5) 25 …but return a musical instrument (4) 27 Mental faculties are involved in making brew, it seems! (4)

WHERE IS THIS? Silbury Hill, Wiltshire

PHOTO: DAVID LYONS/ALAMY-

Where is this?

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Applecross sunset looking out over Skye. Photo: Nadir Khan

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27 ROUTES with Ordnance Survey Maps

Britain’s

est

JUNE 2021

SOUTH WEST SOUTH EAST

MIDLANDS

PHOTO: ROBERT MAYNARD/ALAMY

EAST

NORTH WEST

A PLACE TO PAUSE Dinky St Hubert’s (aka the ‘Little Church in the Fields’) sits secluded on the dip slope of the South Downs – a short detour from Walk 4.

Path serendipity Upland solitude in the Howgill Fells l Norfolk’s Nar Valley Way l Three gorgeous miles in a County Down forest... and more great walks for summer

NORTH EAST

WALES

SCOTLAND

IRELAND

Britain’s est

WALKS

SOUTH WEST

Find a great walk near you...

SOUTH EAST MIDLANDS

01 Somerset Wiveliscombe 02 Dorset Maiden Newton & Sydling St Nicholas

EAST

03 Gloucestershire Hawkesbury Upton

NORTH WEST

04 Hampshire/West Sussex Rowland’s Castle

NORTH EAST

05 Surrey Mytchett

WALES

06 Buckinghamshire West Wycombe

SCOTLAND

07 Hertfordshire Standon

24 IRELAND

08 Warwickshire Marston & Pillerton Hersey 09 Staffordshire Shebdon & High Offley 20

10 Nottinghamshire Newark on Trent 11 Derbyshire Alport Castles

12 Suffolk Harkstead

16 19

13 Norfolk Nar Valley Way

14 Lincolnshire Woodhall Spa 15

15 Cheshire The River Weaver and T&M Canal

11 10

22 23

16 Cumbria Winder and Calders 17 Cumbria Muncaster Fell

13 08

18 West Yorkshire Stoodley Pike & Cragg Vale 19 North Yorkshire Washburn Valley

20 County Durham South Moor

05 01

21 Powys Knighton to Presteigne

22 Gwynedd Aran Fawddwy

23 Gwynedd Maesglase 24 Inverclyde The Wee Cut

27 Highland An Sgurr

How to use your routes WALK INFORMATION An estimate of how long the route will take, based on a pace of about two miles per hour, with allowances made for slower, hilly routes.

A B

NAVIGATION: Good map-reading and compass skills required in places. DISTANCE: Route is between 8-12 miles from start to finish. TERRAIN: 3000ft+ with sustained steep ascent/descent; possible scrambling.

W S

Country Walking has partnered up with Ordnance Survey’s OS Maps to bring you the ultimate interactive routes experience. Subscribers to CW get half-price access to OS Maps, where you can view and print 1:25 000 and 1:50 000 OS maps for all of GB at no extra cost, plan your own walks and view this month’s routes online. In addition, the OS Maps app for smartphones and tablets turns this online tool into a powerful navigation aid. Subscribers can upload their own routes, download the routes from the magazine and browse more than 1000 more from previous issues. For more details, and to subscribe, visit www.walk1000miles.co.uk/cwroutes

CW routes online and on your phone!

100 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

TERRAIN: Min 2000ft ascent, sustained steepness and rocky or boggy ground. S

GRADIENT PROFILE Check the ascent and descent (hilliness) of the route with a quick glance at this profile.

GRADE Our routes are graded easy, moderate, challenging or occasionally extreme, depending on distance, terrain, elevation and ease of navigation. Easy and moderate walks are usually less than 8 miles with relatively gentle gradients. The table below shows how we grade our more challenging walks:

ABBREVIATIONS We have abbreviated left to L and right to R.

If you spot a route which needs updating, email cwroutes@bauermedia.co.uk

OUR EXPERTS All our routes are written by experienced and knowledgeable walkers who are experts at finding the best walks in their area and describing them clearly.

CLASSIC ROUTE

Route updates

challenging

26 County Down Tollymore Forest Park

extreme

25 Perth & Kinross Glen Lednock

A B

NAVIGATION: Sound navigation skills required; route may be trackless. DISTANCE: Route is more than 12 miles from start to finish.

MAPS (on reverse of route card) Follow the red route marked clearly on the map. It’s essential to take the relevant Ordnance Survey map with you in case you get lost and inadvertently leave the area covered by our map.

SOMERSET 01 WIVELISCOMBE

1 mile/1.6km Cross lane. Continue ahead

GRADIENT PROFILE

Start Turn L along North Street. Turn L into Square and L into Silver Street. At foot Golden Hill, turn L and almost immediately R into footpath between house and wall. Continue to stile. Footpath divides. Keep L. Cross second stile and field to third stile. Continue ahead with hedge on L over two more stiles. Follow enclosed path to lane.

name, like most settlements in Somerset, is Old English and topographical. It was recorded as Wiflescumb in 854 and signifies the combe (valley) of a man called Wifel.

past barn on R. Continue with hedge on L. Path bends R. Follow Sandy Lane to junction. Cross stile. Follow footpath downhill to bridge. Follow track uphill for 250m. Turn L up steps

Nearest town Wellington Refreshments Choice pubs and cafes in Wiveliscombe Public toilets At start Public Transport Bus 25 Taunton-Dulverton, (Mon-Sat, 0871 200 2233. www.travelinesw.com) Maps OS Explorer 128; Landranger 181

PLANNING

Start/parking North Street car park, Wiveliscombe ST080280; TA4 2LJ Is it for me? Footpaths, bridleways, quiet lanes and streets. Several slopes, none very arduous. Attention needed to directions on field paths Stiles 10

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 5¼ miles/8.5km XTime: 2¾ hours XGrade: Moderate

SOUTH WEST

MAIDEN NEWTON & SYDLING ST NICHOLAS

02 DORSET

GRADIENT PROFILE

Start Leave station and follow road as it bears R down to Village Hall. Turn R and follow bridleway under railway. In 0.8km, at top of climb, ignore footpath ahead and keep on bridleway as it bears R. In 150m, pass through gap in hedge on L and follow bridleway across R edges of two fields to barns. Turn R and follow track to A37. Cross to gate opposite and, in a few paces, pass through gate on L. Turn R and walk down R edge of field to gate. Follow R edge

Sydling Water. Such is the purity of its water that cress beds and trout are found along its course, together with grey herons and egrets.

of next field downhill to gate/ track. Follow track for 800m towards Sydling St Nicholas.

Nearest towns Dorchester & Yeovil Refreshments Pub and shops at start. Inn at Sydling St Nicholas. Try the family and dog-friendly Chalk & Cheese pub in Maiden Newton (01300 320929) Public transport Trains from Dorchester and Yeovil to start Public toilets None Maps OS Explorer 117, Landranger 194

PLANNING

Start/parking Maiden Newton Station on the ‘Heart of Wessex’ line, grid ref SY599980, DT2 0AF Is it for me? Well-defined tracks and paths that cross open downland. Some moderate ascents Stiles 1

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 7 miles/11.2km XTime: 4 hours XGrade: Moderate

The path to Hog Cliff.

600 400 200 0 km 0

CHOSEN BY… NIGEL VILE The Heart of Wessex Railway Line runs from Bath and Bristol to Weymouth on the Dorset Coast, making this a walk where the ‘train can take the strain’. Starting from the sleepy village of Maiden Newton, whose station was once a bustling junction with a branchline to Bridport, this walk explores some of the finest downland in the county. Seasonally visitors are overwhelmed by not only the number of flowers and extent of the chalk grassland but also by the diversity of species as well. Along the way lies the attractive village of Sydling St Nicholas on the banks of

metres

Wiveliscombe from Jews Lane.

600 400 200 0 km 0

CHOSEN BY… ROBERT HESKETH This scenic walk through the Brendon Hills offers a wide vista over the Vale of Taunton and beyond, a typical West Country landscape of patchwork green fields, hedges and woods. Brendon’s red sandstone hills rise steeply above Wiveliscombe and this route reaches 941ft (285m) on Maundown, before it descends Jews Lane and opens to fine views of Wiveliscombe, an ancient market and cloth making town with a pleasing medley of mainly Georgian and Victorian buildings, centred on its Square. The highest town in Somerset at 413ft (126m), Wiveliscombe’s

metres

SOUTH WEST

PHOTO: ROBERT HESKETH

PHOTO: NIGEL VILE

SOUTH WEST

START

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

walk1000miles.co.uk/cwroutes

VIEW THE WALK ON OS MAPS ONLINE:

TIME TAKEN

5 miles/8km Turn L and follow this busy road for 175m before following a track to the R downhill into the Hog Cliff Nature Reserve. In 400m, at the bottom of a hill, pass through a gateway ahead by a nature reserve information board. In another 25m, cross a stile on the R and walk ahead for 40m to a gate on L. Pass through gateway and walk uphill across field ahead, bearing slightly R, to handgate in top R corner of field. Enter

corner of field and follow path to R alongside woodland. In corner of field ahead, drop down to stile and enter second field. Follow R edge of this field, woodland still on R. Where the woodland ends, bear half L and walk across the field to a gap in its far corner and join a track. Follow track to R, it shortly bears L, and continue downhill back to Village Hall in Maiden Newton. L back to station.

2 miles/3km Turn L. After 30m, go

and through gate. Facing west, walk uphill to gate and stile. Continue over next field and second stile. Walk past house to lane.

There is plenty of cover for wildlife in this landscape: I was lucky to spot and photograph a roe deer buck at close range.

DON’T MISS...

START

3½ miles/5.4km Turn R opposite Maundown Farm. Follow lane uphill to junction. Fork L, signed ‘Public Bridleway’.

straight ahead when road bends L. Walk past Chorley’s Farm and a second house. Turn R at stile (overgrown) and gate. Cross large field ahead. Exit by small gate. Cross second field. Ignore footpath R. Cross third small field. Continue along enclosed path. Turn R. Follow field edge to barn. Continue along R field edge. Cross stile. Exit by small gate. Turn L into lane and almost immediately R and uphill.

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4¾ miles/7.5km Reaching road, turn R and almost immediately L into Northgate. Turn R into Style Road. Turn R into Golden Hill. Retrace steps to start.

4¼ miles/6.6km When path divides, keep L. Continue downhill, enjoying views Wiveliscombe.

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01 SOMERSET WIVELISCOMBE

TIME TAKEN

to a gate in the far corner of the second field. Follow the top R edge of the next field, a fence on the R, to a gate on the far side of the field. Turn R and follow a track past a barn and out onto the A37.

DATE WALKED

2½ miles/4km On a R hand bend on edge of village, turn L onto enclosed footpath. In 350m, at junction beyond gateway, turn R down to Sherrings Farm and road in Sydling St Nicholas. Turn R and, in 400m at end of High Street, turn R at crossroads up towards church. In 150m, pass through gateway into churchyard. Just before church, turn L and walk through churchyard to stile and track. Turn L past tithe barn to junction and turn R. In 350m, turn R onto a track and walk uphill towards an area of woodland. Beyond a gate, follow the R edges of two fields up to the top R corner of the second field. Turn L and follow the top R edges of two fields

JUNE 2021

MAIDEN NEWTON & SYDLING ST NICHOLAS

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DORSET

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GLOUCESTERSHIRE UPTON 03HAWKESBURY

The Drovers’ Pool in Hawkesbury Upton.

Edge’ where the high open ground of the Cotswold plateau drops steeply away to the Severn Vale.

Start Leave car park, turn L past the Beaufort Arms, to a junction at the end of High Street just past the Fox Inn. Turn L along the road signed to Starveall, keeping L at an early junction into Back Street. Follow this road as it winds its way out of the village to reach a road junction in 350m. Follow the footpath opposite that bears R down to a handgate and field. Continue across the field ahead, dropping downhill through three fields into a valley. In a fourth field, continue to a small footbridge over a

GRADIENT PROFILE

PLAN YOUR WALK

ROUTE Start/parking Village Hall car park in Hawkesbury Upton, opposite the Beaufort Arms, GL9 1AU, grid ref ST777870 Is it for me? Farmland paths and woodland tracks, plus two not insignificant ascents Stiles 4

PLANNING Nearest town Wotton-under-Edge Refreshments Beaufort Arms (01454 238217) Public transport Buses 84/85 from Yate/Wotton to start (Mon-Sat, stagecoachbus.com) Public toilets None Maps OS Explorer 167; Landranger 162 & 172

stream before following a track to the R down to a gate and wooded combe. Follow the grassy path through the bottom of this combe, ignoring occasional tracks that climb the

SOUTH WEST

between houses to cross over the railway. Go straight on then turn R onto a track by a house. Continue straight on to a road then go downhill towards Finchdean.

½ miles/2.4km At the junction, opposite The George turn L. After 200 m, turn R to enter a field and climb Idsworth Down. Pass through a small copse then turn L and continue around the edge of fields before climbing towards power lines. At a stile head R towards a gap in the hedgerow. The path continues arrow straight and downhill across a second field.

¾ miles/6.1km Turn L onto a wide grassy

GRADIENT PROFILE

Nearest town Havant Refreshments Choice at Rowlands Castle; The George at Finchdean (02392 412257); The Red Lion at Chalton (02392 592246) Public toilets None Public transport Trains from London Waterloo and Portsmouth to Rowlands Castle (southwesternrailway.com) Bus 27 from Havant/ Emsworth (firstbus.co.uk) Maps OS Explorer OL8; Landranger 197

PLANNING

Start/parking Roadside parking opposite the Castle Inn, postcode PO9 6DA, grid ref SU734106 Is it for me? Several long, steady climbs. Very steep descent near Chalton. Take care after wet weather. Mainly arable field edges, some livestock Stiles 10

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

HANTS/WEST SUSSEX CASTLE 04ROWLANDS

XDistance: 9 miles/14.5km XTime: 4½ hours XGrade: Moderate

Great views from Chalton Down.

CHOSEN BY… BOB BRUNT This walk yields spectacular views from the dip slope of the South Downs, extending to Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight. There are several points of interest, including ancient burial mounds on the top of Chalton Down, the Church of St Michael and All Angels, and the Red Lion – ‘the oldest pub in Hampshire’ – at Chalton. Also worth making a detour for is the tiny church of St Hubert at Idsworth, with its 14th–century wall paintings.

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Start With The Castle Inn to your L, follow the road for 400 metres, then turn L onto path

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XDistance: 5¼ miles/8.4km XTime: 3 hours XGrade: Moderate

CHOSEN BY… NIGEL VILE The Beaufort Arms in Hawkesbury Upton, named after the Beaufort Family whose ancestral home is the nearby Badminton Estate, has earned countless plaudits over the years. Not only has it featured in the Good Beer Guide for over 25 consecutive years, but it has also won CAMRA Gloucestershire’s ‘Pub of the Year’ award on many occasions. Expect local beers, good value home-cooked food using local suppliers and a pub with a timeless feel and atmosphere. Also expect a walk in the southern Cotswolds that explores what is known colloquially as ‘The

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SOUTH EAST

PHOTO: NIGEL VILE

PHOTO: BOB BRUNT

SOUTH EAST

¾ miles/7.6km Where the lane joins a road, turn L to join a farm track. Shortly after entering woods turn R onto a field-side path. Pass through a copse and continue along the edge of two fields, then cross a narrow lane to join another field edge path which passes St Hubert’s Church. Continue along field edge to exit by a stile. Turn immediately L. At a fork keep R then at a T-junction turn R again. Go over a stile to cross a field (slightly L) to another stile and a gate to join a wide grassy path.

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immediately turn R continue straight on over a plank bridge then turn R to immediately arrive at a road near the start of the walk.

1½ miles /2.5km Turn L and follow the lane for 600m to reach Mickley Cottage on the right. At this point, turn L and follow the Cotswold Way uphill, keeping L at a fork in 300m. Pass through a gateway at the top of a climb in 150m before bearing R into a hilltop field. Walk along the L edge of this field before entering Claypit Wood at the end of the field. Follow the path through this woodland for 250m before passing through a gateway on the L to follow a path up the left edge of a field. At the top of this field, turn R

adjoining hillsides, to reach a gate and the lane in the Kilcott Valley in 0.8km.

4 miles/6.3km In 600m, at a junction by a cottage, pass through a gateway on the L and follow what was once a road – it is now a track – for 0.8km to the road in Hawkesbury by a property called the Carpenter’s Shop. Follow the road to the L, passing the church and a neighbouring property, before veering R to follow a path that shortly enters woodland. Follow the path uphill through

and follow the path for 0.8km to the road immediately past the Somerset Monument. Turn R and, shortly, turn L at a junction to follow a quiet lane downhill signposted to Wickwar.

RT A T S

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the woodland to a gate and stile and field. Bear L across this field ahead to a stile in its far L corner. Beyond this stile, walk up the L edges of two fields to join the Cotswold Way, before turning L to join a road in 200m. Turn R along to the main road in Hawkesbury Upton by the Drovers’ Pool. Follow the main road to the R back to the village hall and its car park.

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03 GLOUCESTERSHIRE HAWKESBURY UPTON

TIME TAKEN

7 miles/11.1km Turn R onto a tarmac lane then, at a crossroads, turn L onto a farm track. At houses turn R onto a narrow path. Enter a field and continue straight on to arrive at a road. Turn R then, after 200 metres, turn L onto a footpath. On entering woods turn R. Pass through 2 gates then cross the middle of a field. At a fork keep R and continue straight on. Pass through a gate then

START

JUNE 2021

DATE WALKED

track entering the churchyard of St Michael and All Angels emerging opposite the Red Lion public house. Turn R then at a fork shortly afterwards keep R. Ignore the farm track opposite and turn R uphill along the road. Ignore first path to the L and continue to the top of the climb to turn L onto narrow path. The path soon drops very steeply down towards the railway. Turn L onto a lane then quickly turn R over a footbridge to enter a farm then turn R onto a lane.

St Hubert Church at Idsworth. This small church has several 14th-century wall paintings.

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HANTS/WEST SUSSEX ROWLANDS CASTLE

DATE WALKED YOUR RATING © Country Walking June 2021

SOUTH WEST

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SURREY 05MYTCHETT

A track through pine woodland near point 2.

of the railways made it less competitive. Nowadays the canal serves both as a recreational amenity and a wildlife habitat. It was designated an SSSI in 1995.

GRADIENT PROFILE

PLAN YOUR WALK

ROUTE Start/parking Basingstoke Canal Centre, Mytchett, grid ref SU893550 Is it for me? Mainly level route along canal towpath, with some undulating sections across heathland Stiles None

chalk grasslands to Bradenham, weaving through beechwoods back to West Wycombe.

¾ mile/1.3km Cross Bradenham Road

GRADIENT PROFILE

PLAN YOUR WALK

ROUTE

PLANNING

WEST WYCOMBE & WALTER’S ASH

06BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

XDistance: 9¾ miles/15.7km XTime: 4½ hours XGrade: Moderate

E E SE TURE 54 A G FE PA ON

The Dashwood family mausoleum.

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metres

XDistance: 5½ miles/8.7km XTime: 3 hours XGrade: Easy

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SOUTH EAST

PHOTO: MIKE COPE

PHOTO: TOM BAILEY

SOUTH EAST

3 miles/4.9km Retrace steps to last junction in Hanging Wood and turn R on path passed earlier, signed ‘Naphill’. At second, unsigned junction, go L down to path. Follow it R up to gate and leave woods on permissive bridleway across meadow up to lane. Turn L. At lane end, bear R past house into trees, curving L to junction. Turn R, passing pond on R. At next junction, tuck R, then L to continue on path NNW. At third junction, turn L and straight on at crosstrack. Take next signed path R and keep ahead, under power line to meet NT Bradenham sign. Take footpath R, initially beside woodbank, and along edge of wood/

7½ miles/12km Turn R then cross L along church wall, past lych gate and entrance to manor. L up track behind pavilion to edge of Pimlock’s Wood. Where track

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forks, turn R up sketchier path into trees. Straight on at first junction, uphill to meet track in Kit’s Wood. Turn R down track, leaving it R at sign down path to railway. Turn L along path parallel with railway. At end, turn R under bridge and take path across field to A4010. Cross to gate follow path up R field edge, through gate, and up to lane. Follow it L. Cut R at school back to car park.

2½ miles/3.9km Cross railway and then bear L to join towpath of the Basingstoke Canal. Pass large flash on your R and then the first lock. At third lock next

1¼ miles/1.9km Locate barrier opposite and take track that leads away from it. Take first R (near a tree with a ‘K4’ sign) along a track which plunges downhill and leads to a T-junction. R here, on a descending track and keep ahead at next junction, with railway line on R. Pass tunnel under railway and continue along a track to a gate. Bear R along main road and after 150m, L up approach road to Curzon bridge.

RT A T S

3¾ miles/6km Pass under Deepcut Road Bridge and continue along the wooded reach with houses on the R. From here the canal swings L away from its westerly line and heads south. You soon pass an archway on the opposite bank with a body of water behind it (Wharfenden Lake). When the towpath ends, continue along tarred lane and over the south-western main line railway. The aqueduct which carries the canal over the main line was originally built

to a small cottage (Deepcut Top Lock), towpath narrows and continues along Deepcut cutting.

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in 1838. When you reach a main road, go R over Guildford Road Bridge, and then L (before Harvester restaurant) to pick up the towpath again on the opposite bank. This stretch of the towpath is usually busy with visitors from the canal centre. Continue for 400m until Basingstoke Canal Visitor Centre at Mytchett. Go L over the swing bridge and across picnic area to car park.

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05 SURREY MYTCHETT

TIME TAKEN

6 miles/9.6km Turn L along pavement for 600m, and before RAF High Wycombe main gate, turn L down path into Bradenham Beeches. Drop L to path in valley, following it R down to track. Follow L, emerging into chalk grassland. At crosstrack by overlapping bench, take path L to lane in Bradenham.

gardens to Bradenham Woods Lane. Turn R up to New Road in Walter’s Ash.

ST A RT

JUNE 2021

DATE WALKED

2 miles/3.2km Follow lane L around cricket pitch. Tuck R where tarmac ends at row of houses onto dirt path. At crosstrack, bear L down bridleway into woods. Meet complicated junction by National Trust Hughenden Manor Estate sign and take second L down a stony bridleway. Follow this track out of the woods and keep straight on, following signs up to ‘Hughenden Manor & Tea Room’.

(A4010) into Cookshall Lane (L of garage) and proceed under railway. At second fingerpost, fork R up bridleway, becoming a sunken track. Keep L at fork, emerging at Downley Common.

WEST WYCOMBE & WALTER’S ASH

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BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

DATE WALKED YOUR RATING © Country Walking June 2021

SOUTH EAST

YOUR RATING © Country Walking June 2021

HERTFORDSHIRE 07 STANDON

GRADIENT PROFILE

4 miles/6.4km Turn L down lane and L again at junction. Just past weatherboarded house, turn R on path signed Nimney Bourne. Go through gate and turn L.

2 miles/3.2km At far end of field, continue on path through woods. Keep on through another wood. Cross road into path opposite. Climb through trees and soon turn L at waymark up through woods. At top, keep straight across field. Follow track R, cross road and continue on path signed Cold Christmas. On far side of field, turn L with shallow ditch on R. After ¼ mile, turn R at waymark and L (hedge now on L) and continue to follow field edge for ½ mile.

A B

Cross bridge, climb steps and turn L. Go down steps at corner of field and turn R on wooded path. Keep straight over two

Nearest town Buntingford Refreshments The Star, Standon (01920 823725) at start; The Bull, Much Hadham (01279 841100) Public toilets None Public transport Bus 386 from Baldock or Bishop’s Stortford to Standon. Bus 351 to Much Hadham (Point 5) from Stortford or Ware Maps OS Explorer 194; Landranger 166 & 167

PLANNING

Start/parking St Mary’s Standon, postcode SG11 1LB, grid ref TL396222 Is it for me? Paths, tracks and village lanes. Some mud, short roadside stretches and climbs. Easily adapted/shortened Stiles None

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 12 miles/19km XTime: 6 hours XGrade: Challenging

Standon from Paper Mill Lane.

SOUTH EAST

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and crosses a stream to the village green. The route continues north to descend to the Fosse Way, from where an excellent bridleway leads east, back to the start, alongside the peaceful and little-visited River Dene.

Start Walk south from the village green, cross road and take lane (bridle road) between cottages and the old school, with church on higher ground to L. Fork R, go through a small gate and continue along track. Carry on to double gates but don’t go through these – turn L to pass through a small gate. Turn R, with hedge on R, and walk ahead for 500m, up Marston Hill, to a gap on R. Turn L at the

GRADIENT PROFILE

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ROUTE

Start/parking Butlers Marston village green, grid ref SP317501, postcode CV35 0NQ Is it for me? Paths and tracks in gentle rolling countryside Stiles 3

PLANNING

Nearest town Stratford-upon-Avon Refreshments Pubs and café in nearby Kineton Public toilets None Public transport Nearest stations Stratford-uponAvon and Banbury – see www.johnsonscoaches.co. uk for bus connections Maps Explorer 206; Landranger 151

top, follow field edge to corner, turn L and follow field edge to next corner, with small pond. Continue downhill with hedge on R and take small gate on R leading to farmyard.

MARSTON & PILLERTON HERSEY

08 WARWICKSHIRE

Views to Pillerton Hersey from the path to the Fosse Way.

XDistance: 6¼ miles/9.75km XTime: 4 hours XGrade: Moderate

CHOSEN BY… ROGER BUTLER This circuit through beautiful Warwickshire countryside links two attractive villages and provides panoramic views towards the long wooded escarpment of Edge Hill. The final section of the route follows the twisting wooded valley of the River Dene and passes through an ancient wildflower meadow designated as an SSSI. The walk begins by the village green at the heart of Butlers Marston and passes honeystone cottages before following a bridleway over Marston Hill. The track swings west, past farms and old houses, into Pillerton Hersey

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CHOSEN BY… PHOEBE TAPLIN This energetic hike through gentle hills and valleys passes small woods, pretty villages and two country pubs with gardens.

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Start Turn L from Standon church and R into Paper Mill Lane. Turn L near pond, through gate onto path. Keep straight for ½ mile, with hedge roughly on L. Go through gate ahead and keep straight uphill and down again into hamlet of Latchford. Continue, past ford, on lane through houses. Keep R to follow lane beside River Rib. When lane bends R, turn L through gate onto path signed Great Barwick.

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MIDLANDS

PHOTO: PHOEBE TAPLIN

PHOTO: ROGER BUTLER

2¾ miles/4.25km Go straight over onto green and take track, via small gate. Walk ahead on grass path to another small gate, with stream on L. Ignore paths on L and R and keep ahead by stream to go through another small gate. Continue, with hedge on L, to gate and fork R slightly uphill over lumpy pasture to two more gates. Keep hedge on R for 100m then veer L across open field to small gate and stile in far corner. Walk downhill to stile by Lower Fosse Farm and continue, with hedge on R, to stile at road (this is the Fosse Way, originally built by the Romans).

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TIME TAKEN

5 miles/8km Follow this around a couple of bends and go R at a gap. Walk straight over field to gate into Lobbington Hall meadow SSSI. Continue along foot of field to another gate

5½ miles/9km Go through another gate, now with River Dene on L, pass small water treatment plant on L and join concrete track uphill to gate. Turn L at top by houses to return to centre of Butlers Marston.

leading onto a track through forestry plantation.

T R A ST

8¾ miles/14km Go through gate and continue (hedge on L). At end of first field, turn R with trees on L for ½ mile. At corner of wood, turn L and immediately R with wood on R. Keep

7¼ miles/11.7km Keep going past grand mansions and half-timbered cottages, the museum and pub. Opposite cottage called Green Shutters, turn L and keep on along path beside ditch. Continue on wooded path for another mile, following waymarked sandy and then grassy track between fields and hedges. Keep straight at junction on narrow bridleway between fences.

4 5¾ miles/9.25km Cross avenue and follow arrow over grass with hedge on L. Go through kissing gate, fork slightly R over field towards trees and keep straight. Cross lane and continue on path between fence and trees. Follow path R and L around field edge. Turn L up track past cottages, keep straight towards brick houses. Follow track down through houses, turn R on Station Road and L through Much Hadham for nearly a mile.

crossing tracks and head R at greyish arrow along edge of field. Keep straight across field. Immediately after Barrow Farm, turn L past garden and L through gate.

10½ miles/15.7km Turn L over footbridges onto footpath and continue beside field for ½ mile. Turn L beside road and R into byway signed Frogshall Cottages. Fork L past pond and immediately

straight past two more woods. Turn L beside road and, at corner, turn R on second path signed Wellpond Green. Go through gate and fork R past shed. Turn R through kissing gate onto track and down lane beyond houses.

START

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R again through farmyard. Go through gate and keep straight downhill. Turn sharp L along valley with stream/ ditch on L. Keep straight on path and lane through Standon back to church.

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07 HERTFORDSHIRE STANDON

TIME TAKEN

4 miles/6.5km Turn R for 50m and take surfaced track on R. After 700m, fork R (grid ref SP297506) on track between hedges, next to gates to Oxhouse Farm. Go R through gate after 250m and walk up grass slopes with hedge on R. Continue ahead through gates to track between trees and turn L alongside hedge.

JUNE 2021

DATE WALKED

1½ miles/2.5km Join the track (known as the Oxhill Bridle Road) leading west from the house. Pass through a couple of gates and continue ahead for 1.3km, past houses on R, and turn R on track next to Mears Farm. Cross footbridge over stream/ ford, go L and fork R on path between fences to reach lane in Pillerton Hersey.

Compton Verney Art Gallery and Park, with world-class exhibits and an extensive Capability Brown landscape, is only three miles away.

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MARSTON & PILLERTON HERSEY

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WARWICKSHIRE

DATE WALKED YOUR RATING © Country Walking June 2021

SOUTH EAST

YOUR RATING © Country Walking June 2021

STAFFORDSHIRE & HIGH OFFLEY 09SHEBDON

PLAN YOUR WALK

ROUTE Start/parking: Lay-by near the Old Wharf House, Shebdon; grid ref SJ757260, ST20 0PU Is it for me? Relatively flat along towpath and field paths (1.7km of roads). Part of route requires careful navigation, with no obvious path for 700m. Later, some gates may need to be mounted. There is at least one difficult stile (near church) which requires careful dismounting. Map & good footwear recommended Stiles 2

PLANNING

PHOTO: MIKE COPE

Nearest town Newport Refreshments The Anchor, High Offley (01785 284569) Public toilets None Public transport None Maps OS Explorer 243; Landranger 127

up ramp opposite to join the towpath of the Shropshire Union Canal. Bear L here and continue along the Shebdon Embankment. The canal here towers above the surrounding landscape and offers clear views of the Wrekin and the Shropshire Hills. For some distance the towpath has a distinctive wavy edge where it borders the canal. In due course you will reach an old wharf, which was once a Cadbury’s dried milk factory. Pass under the next road bridge (no.45) and continue to the bridge beyond. Exit the canal here and cross the bridge, bearing immediately R.

the opposite side of the canal until you reach a road. Bear L

GRADIENT PROFILE

1¼ miles/1.7km Continue across field on

High Offley church bathed in golden summer sunlight

XDistance: 5½ miles/8.9km XTime: 3 hours XGrade: Easy

MIDLANDS

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NOTTINGHAMSHIRE 10 NEWARK-ON-TRENT

Newark Castle and Trent Bridge.

Newark’s fortress is now far from complete. During the Civil War, Newark bolstered its defences by building two earthwork artillery forts on the town’s outskirts – King’s Sconce and Queen’s Sconce. Although only the latter fortification survives, it’s regarded as one of the country’s best-preserved examples of 17th-century military engineering, and you visit it in Sconce and Devon Park.

Start Exit car park L onto Tolney Lane to B6326. Turn R and just before Trent Bridge – don’t miss view of castle from bridge – bear R on surfaced riverside path. Walk L across large

GRADIENT PROFILE

Nearest town Newark-on-Trent Refreshments Choice in Newark, including Rumbles café in Devon Park Public toilets Start, market place and castle gardens Public transport Town centre well served by buses, plus Castle and Northgate railway stations Maps OS Explorer 271; Landranger 121

PLANNING

Start/parking Riverside Arena car park, Tolney Lane, off B6326, Newark on Trent, NG24 1BY, grid ref SK795541. Plenty of other town centre parking, or free car parks in Devon Park, off Valley Prospect and Boundary Road Is it for me? Level riverside, town centre and parkland Stiles None

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 3½ miles/5.65km XTime: 2½ hours XGrade: Easy

CHOSEN BY… CAROL BURKINSHAW Towering above the mighty Trent, Newark’s 12th-century castle strikes a dramatic pose. In 1642, when the English Civil War broke out, Newark – a Royalist stronghold – held the strategic key to unlock this deadly power struggle. The town and its fortress survived three sieges before the by-now imprisoned Charles I was forced to surrender Newark during the final stage of the First Civil War. This route explores the town’s colourful and interesting former port area, market place and public gardens to the rear of the castle, where it’s revealed that

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CHOSEN BY… MIKE COPE A chocolate factory, a hilltop church and an award-winning pub are all on offer on this delightful walk through rural hamlets. The factory and wharf at Knighton operated between 1911 and 1961 for the processing of locally collected milk products and shipment of chocolate crumb. The processed chocolate kept well and was then sent on a 15-hour journey by canal to Bournville, in South Birmingham, where it was made into Cadbury’s famous Dairy Milk.

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Start From the lay-by near the Old Wharf (large white house), go

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MIDLANDS

PHOTO: CAROL BURKINSHAW

2 miles/3.2km Go L to intersection and turn R along B6166. At traffic lights/junction with B6326 cross to pedestrianised Carter Gate. Head L at fingerpost, signed market place, onto Bridge Street. Walk to far side of impressive market place, backdropped against the towering spire of St Mary

3¼ miles/5.25km At Northgate Retail Park L, divert L along southern edge of shopping centre down lane that leads to Trent – Kings

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Marina opposite. Walk L, cross footbridge and turn L back to Trent Bridge. Just before bridge Castle Barge is moored on L. This former grain barge was converted into a pub in 1980 and is very much a Newark institution. Go R and L into Tolney Lane to start.

TIME TAKEN

Magdalene church, and enter narrow Chain Lane R of Buttermarket. Jink R along Middle Gate and then L onto Boar Lane, signed Castle. Turn R at T-junction to roundabout – detour L through gate off roundabout into Castle Gardens, bordered by the remaining castle walls – and remain forwards to later walk along North Gate.

START

along it, passing entrance to Knighton Foods - ‘The Factory in the Fields’. Pass a lane on L and 100 metres later, go R through a gate and continue along fence towards a large fishing lake. Drop down to L-hand edge of lake and go through another metal gate. After 20m go L across footbridge over fast flowing stream. When you emerge into an adjoining field, stop to consider your next move carefully. There is no obvious path here for the next 700 metres, so you will need to improvise. Your next waymark is in the top L-hand corner of this large undulating field. Start by locating a pocket of woodland on horizon and aim for this in a slow sweeping arc. If there are crops in the field you will need to go round the edge of the field (anticlockwise preferably). When you reach a pocket of woodland (surrounding a pit), locate

3¾ miles/6.1km Go through church gate and proceed to end of churchyard. From this hilltop viewpoint you can see the grey conical outline of the Wrekin, the Shropshire Hills and the silvery thread of the canal glinting in the sunlight. Climb stile and go diagonally L across sloping field (which may

2 miles/3.1km R through metal gate and keep ahead through a series of farm gates to road. Go R along road then immediately L (opp Offley Grove) along bridleway. The track will narrow in due course and eventually leads to a road. Keep ahead along country road (no footway), which proceeds gradually uphill for 1.7km. Pass farm on L and Peggs Lane on R, until you come to High Offley church.

hedge line and follow it to the L-hand field corner.

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4½ miles/7.1km Go through gate to join canal towpath and then L again under bridge (no.42). Continue along towpath with plethora of craft moored on opposite bank. Look back for superb views of High Offley church perched on the hilltop. Pass under road bridge (no.44) and keep going until you reach the winding hole at Shebdon Wharf. L down ramp to return to lay-by.

contain cattle). Carefully exit field via difficult stile and descend steps to lane. Go L along Peggs Lane and continue until you reach the canal bridge (near the Anchor Inn).

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09 STAFFORDSHIRE SHEBDON & HIGH OFFLEY

TIME TAKEN

1¼ miles/2km Turn R to trace boundary of Sconce and Devon Park around to L. Join surfaced path to car park at Tom Mann Pavilion, track parking area’s perimeter path, and then resume previous direction. At Queen’s Sconce, stay forwards at crossroads – detour L at footbridge to explore earthworks – to exit park in-between Rumbles café and car park onto Boundary Road.

START

JUNE 2021

DATE WALKED

½ mile/0.8km Leave Trent over next bridge along Mill Lane, and at T-junction go R into Mill Gate to junction with B6166. Divert R and just beyond entrance for Newark Marina branch L onto track signed Devon Pastures. Follow River Devon to intersection on edge of woodland, and stick forwards, passing owl sculpture, to rise through trees to football pitch.

footbridge, pass Town Lock, negotiate metal walkway and keep ahead through former wharf.

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NOTTINGHAMSHIRE NEWARK-ON-TRENT

DATE WALKED YOUR RATING © Country Walking June 2021

MIDLANDS

YOUR RATING © Country Walking June 2021

DERBYSHIRE CASTLES 11 ALPORT

GRADIENT PROFILE

1.3 miles/2km Take the R-hand path, skirting corner of plantation to cross wide main track. On far side, take grassy path uphill towards a ladder-stile. Cross stile, then continue ahead on permissive path with wall L. Go through next gate and follow track, veering L to enter Rowlee Pasture (NT sign). Path continues across open moorland, flagstoned over boggy sections. After

beside R-hand end of car park. Path climbs steadily through trees to reach gate at top edge of plantation. Go through gate and turn R on path heading NW, with plantation R. After ½ mile, cross stile/gate to reach major junction of paths.

The ‘damaged’ landscape of Alport Castles.

1¾ miles, Alport Castles are revealed L.

Nearest town Sheffield Refreshments None on route Public toilets None on route. Public transport: Hulleys of Baslow buses 273, 274 and 275 link Sheffield and Bakewell with the Upper Derwent Valley. Maps: OS Explorer OL1; Landranger 110; Harvey Superwalker Peak District Central

PLANNING

Start/parking Bridge End car park (P&D, cash only) along northern arm of Ladybower Reservoir, grid ref SK180884, postcode S33 0AQ Is it for me? Mostly clear footpaths; muddy across open moorland. Steep descent and rocky terrain at Alport Castles Stiles 6

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 9 miles/14.4km XTime: 5 hours XGrade: Moderate

E E SE TURE 34 A G FE PA ON

SUFFOLK 12 HARKSTEAD

Distant views of the Royal Hospital School.

Stour and Orwell Walk, which will help guide you as far as point 3. Cross avenue and continue over large field towards trees. Turn R along lane (ignore footpath). At cottages, turn R onto lane signed No Through Road and soon L onto footpath.

1 mile/1.6km Keep straight across next field. Fork L over track before farm buildings and through waymarked gate. Head slightly L over field to another waymarked gate. Follow path over FB and along field edge. Keep straight through gate and up path ahead with hedged reservoir on R. Follow hedge R and turn L at waymark over field. Climb grassy bank and

GRADIENT PROFILE

Nearest town Ipswich Refreshments Bakers Arms, Harkstead (www.facebook.com/ TheBakersArmsInn, 01473 326904) Public toilets None Public transport Bus 97 (Ipswich buses) from Ipswich bus or train stations runs to the Rose in Shotley at Point 5 every 1½ hours (not Sunday) Maps OS Explorer 197; Landranger 169

PLANNING

Start/parking Baker’s Arms, Harkstead/overflow car park nearby, IP9 1BT, grid ref TM187348 Is it for me? Paths can be muddy, with wet sand or shingle on beach and very small stream to jump. Brief roadside stretches. Possible shortcut soon after pt 4 (see map) to make about 7 miles Stiles None

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 9¼ miles/15km XTime: 4 hours XGrade: Moderate

CHOSEN BY… PHOEBE TAPLIN Sandwiched between two mighty estuaries at the south end of Suffolk, the Shotley peninsula is a beautiful place to walk. With slight detours, to take in the church at Erwarton and Rose pub at Shotley, this route follows the Stour and Orwell Walk cross-country from Harkstead. It then heads back along the increasingly wild, bird-haunted shoreline of the River Stour.

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Start Walk down Walnut Tree Lane near Bakers Arms. Beyond last house (garden full of model dinosaurs!) keep straight on footpaths over fields, following arrows for

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CHOSEN BY… NICK HALLISSEY Thought to be one of the largest landslips in England, the Alport Castles are very impressive – but are also tucked away up a side-valley off the famous Snake Pass and tricky to get to, so aren’t visited as much as other parts of the Ladybower area. This walk climbs through the plantations above the northern arm of Ladybower Reservoir, before crossing the moors to the Castles. It descends into Alport Dale and Woodlands Valley then returns on the outbound path.

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Start Facing reservoir, take footpath running directly

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MIDLANDS

EAST

PHOTO: TOM BAILEY

PHOTO: PHOEBE TAPLIN

EAST

START

7 miles/11.25km Continue on footpath

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8 8¼ miles/13.25km Continue on beach and over footbridge. Just before modern house on R, turn R up path beside hedge. Continue on track. At junction of paths, keep ahead up path between fields. Then on fenced path and L on lane back to village.

TIME TAKEN

3¼ miles/5.25km Continue carefully on lane past church. Soon after road bends L, turn R onto footpath downhill past lake and up again, past huge trees. Follow fenced path L and keep straight across field to houses. Turn R on lane and continue along The Street past shop and pub.

5¼ miles/8.5km Follow path skirting cottages, then turn R beside Stour with water on L. Continue along field edges for a few miles, passing saltmarshes. Keep on embankment and beside water. After more marshes, path descends to riverside at Erwarton Ness and, if it’s low tide, you can walk along beach. Rejoin field-edge path at start of embankment near Jonny All Alone Creek.

beside estuary for another mile or so, keeping straight at one point through hedge-gap and over ditch. Follow waymark L down steps onto beach. Near water’s edge, hop R over little stream and continue along shingle bank with stream on R.

SHORT CUT

4½ miles/7.2km Cross bridge and turn R on path, crossing stile then meadow to arrive at gate access to Alport Castles Farm. Go through gate, and second gate, to join farm track. Turn L and follow track for just under a mile. Approaching Snake Pass, where track veers R, turn

3⅓ miles/5.3km Explore castles via ravine; access as far as boulder field at base of The Tower. Retrace steps back to main moorland path and head briefly southwards again, to locate branching path leading R (west), just to south of castles. Head downhill, passing L of landslip and crossing two stiles. Path follows fenceline downhill, then zig-zags slightly to reach bridge over river at bottom.

6¾ miles/10.7km Cross and continue on

5¾ miles/9.2km Cross with care and continue on access track on far side, passing through gate. Cross ford/footbridge. Where track splits, take L fork. After fording small beck, pass through gate and continue on track, joining another track as you enter NT estate Blackley Hey. After a short distance, as track becomes metalled, take L path heading downhill, signed ‘Upper Derwent’. Pass through gate to descend to Rowlee Bridge. Cross, then climb on track to reach Snake Pass again.

L on faint path descending hillside, crossing two stiles to emerge through gate beside Snake Pass road.

START

JUNE 2021

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access track, climbing the hillside towards Rowlee Farm. Passing farm, follow track as it winds through landslip above farm, passing through two gates. Path eventually veers away from wall-line to reach junction of paths passed on outbound route. At top of junction, turn sharp R on outbound path. Pass through gate/stile and continue ahead, with plantation L. Pass through gate and turn L. Descend through woodland to return to car park.

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11 DERBYSHIRE ALPORT CASTLES

TIME TAKEN

2¼ miles/3.6km Fork R near brick house and, 250m later, turn R onto footpath with hedge on R for about ½ mile. At large holly bush, switch to other side of hedge and continue into Ewarton. Turn L on lane.

4½ miles/7.25km Just before Rose Farm House, turn R onto restricted byway. Keep straight past Shotley Cottage, and down sandy track towards River Stour. At signpost just before Rose Farm Cottages, turn R on path beside field.

JUNE 2021

DATE WALKED

keep straight along tree-lined path. Follow path R and immediately L along edge of field towards houses. Keep straight on lane and then surfaced drive with footpath sign.

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SUFFOLK HARKSTEAD

MIDLANDS

NORFOLK VALLEY WAY 13 NAR

GRADIENT PROFILE

Start From the elegant 17thcentury custom house in King’s Lynn, walk towards the water, past the statue of explorer George Vancouver, who gave his name to the city in Canada. Turn L over footbridge and along waterfront beside River Great Ouse, passing 16thcentury Marriot’s Warehouse with delightful café and museum. Cross bridge and turn L past small grassy mound, following Fen Rivers Way sign. Follow path L and soon R with wall of car park on L and reedbeds on R.

to spot everything from grey wagtails to great white egrets.

PHOTO: PHOEBE TAPLIN 20

Nearest town King’s Lynn Refreshments Choice in King’s Lynn, inc. Marriot’s Warehouse, 01553 818500, near start of route. Ship Inn Chinese Restaurant, 01760 338899, close to end. Nothing in between. Public toilets King’s Lynn bus station Public transport A/B/C Excel buses (First) Peterborough-Norwich connects both ends of the walk. Trains to King’s Lynn from Cambridge & London Maps OS Explorer 236; Landranger 132

PLANNING

Start/parking Custom House, King’s Lynn/ St James car park (bus & rail stations a short walk away), PE30 1HP, grid ref TF615200 Is it for me? Long, but level. Muddy in places. Can flood after heavy rain Stiles 2

ROUTE

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XDistance: 13½ miles/21.75km XTime: 6½ hours XGrade: Moderate

EAST

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LINCOLNSHIRE SPA 14 WOODHALL

GRADIENT PROFILE

Start Exit Royal Square car park R along B1191 (toilets first L on Spa Road). At end of shops, beside church, turn L onto

and Bardney, in the Lincolnshire Limewoods National Nature Reserve – Britain’s most important area for small-leaved lime woodlands. From Woodhall Spa’s Royal Square – where a Dambusters memorial stands – this route takes in some of the former spa resort’s highlights. Then heading north of Woodhall, you weave across farmland and through small woodland tracts. At Stixwould village the route links into the 147-mile-long Viking Way back to Woodhall Spa.

Swine Syke Drain towards the end of the walk.

Iddesleigh Road. Stick forwards, passing the Cottage

Nearest town Woodhall Spa Refreshments Choice in Woodhall Spa and The Village Limits pub on Stixwould Road Public toilets Spa Road, Woodhall Spa Public transport Brylaine Travel buses A7/8 Horncastle, B15 Boston and IC5 Lincoln-Boston Maps OS Explorer 273; Landranger 121 & 122

PLANNING

Start/parking Royal Square car park, B1191 Station Road, Woodhall Spa, grid ref TF193630, LN10 6QL. Or, The Broadway car park on B1191, Woodhall Spa Is it for me? Easy navigation on level field and woodland paths/ tracks, plus quiet lanes Stiles 2

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 8¼ miles/13.3km XTime: 3¼ hours XGrade: Moderate

CHOSEN BY… CAROL BURKINSHAW During the 19th century the accidental discovery of mineral-rich spring water on land originally earmarked for coal mining led to the development of Woodhall Spa – a rural spa resort, complete with baths, hotels and broad, tree-lined avenues. After its Edwardian heyday, Woodhall’s popularity declined, although the small town/village was to play a significant role in WWII when it became the base for the RAF 617 Squadron – the Dambusters. Download a village map at woodhallspa. org. Nowadays, Woodhall Spa sits, alongside nearby Wragby

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The Old Custom House in King’s Lynn

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CHOSEN BY… PHOEBE TAPLIN This leg-stretching waterside hike follows the little River Nar out of the industrial fringes of Kings Lynn into wide open countryside. It runs past lakes and trees, an old Augustinian Priory and a former bone mill. The final miles, winding among alders and willows, are particularly beautiful. From the village of Narborough at the end, comfortable buses run every half hour back to Kings Lynn, with its pubs, cafés and railway station. Apart from the start and end, there are no refreshments along the way, so don’t forget your picnic – and binoculars too

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EAST

PHOTO: CAROL BURKINSHAW

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TIME TAKEN

3 miles/4.85km Walk L, and at house divert R onto wide track into Stixwould Wood. Ignore track L and then R to T-junction. Turn L to exit trees over footbridge, and head L beside drain. At signpost at end of first

4 miles/6.45km Turn R, and stay forwards at intersection through Stixwould. At consecutive road junctions, first veer L onto Station Road/Viking Way, then take next L, and finally head R. When lane bends L at house divert R along track. Climb stile, and go L along field perimeter to briefly join track. Immediately after crossing Reeds Beck walk diagonally R across field to negotiate gate 50m behind farm buildings.

5¾ miles/9.25km L on track towards wood, and trace its perimeter L and R to woodland corner. Cross footbridge, bear diagonally R across field to signpost, head through tree belt, and continue on track to Green Lane. Divert L to crossroads and turn R – Petwood Hotel L – to Royal Square. L to start.

START

1¼ miles/2km Follow riverside path, with water on R, past footbridge and Innovation Centre. Keep going under A148 and A47. Follow path R over old railway bridge and go on along far side of river, with water now on L for ¾ mile. Cross relief channel

½ mile/0.8km Continue along embankment. Cross bridge and turn L on pavement of Hardings Way (you could detour through Hardings Pits park on R). At traffic lights, turn L over bridge. Immediately on far side, turn R along River Nar with water on R. Keep on along path as it becomes pavement of A148 to cross road bridge. Just before bus stop, turn R, following pink-and-white Nar Valley Way (NVW) arrow.

9½ miles/15.25km Near gatehouse of former Augustinian Abbey, turn R over footbridge and continue with river on L again and great views of abbey. Keep going

4 miles/6.5km Keep going for another ½ mile and follow riverside embankment above lane. At gate, head down and follow lane around waterside house before rejoining embankment, passing industrial Setchey on far bank. Turn L over brick bridge and cross road onto riverside path to continue along NVW for another couple of miles. Cross Wormegay Road and continue past series of pretty lakes and sand quarry.

and skirt round riverside house. Continue on riverside path under pylons and railway.

6 FINISH

JUNE 2021

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12 miles/19.25km Reaching Narborough, path leads R away from river and L around Little Narside. Turn R onto River Close and follow it L. Turn R onto road (leaving NWV, which heads L past Ship Inn). Walk past chapel and church to find bus stop on R with regular buses back to King’s Lynn.

for another couple of miles, eventually passing gauging station and footbridge. A mile further on, waterwheel marks site of Narborough Bone Mill.

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13 NORFOLK NAR VALLEY WAY

TIME TAKEN

2¼ miles/3.6km From field corner in front of Halstead Wood, cross footbridge 20m L and head through trees. Leaving wood, continue towards medieval moated Hallstead Hall, swinging L and R in between buildings, to pick up driveway to lane.

field go diagonally R across next field to far-R corner/ signpost onto lane.

JUNE 2021

DATE WALKED

1 mile/1.6km Go L along road – optional parallel concessionary footpath R – to crossroads. Walk R along Stixwould Road – concessionary footpath continues R, passing campsite, to The Village Limits pub – to junction. Keep ahead on bridleway, signed Halstead Wood. Track becomes grassy beyond Edlington Moor Farm, and later follows field boundaries.

Museum/Tourist Information R to footpath sign just before The Tea House in the Woods (The Kinema in the Woods is a short detour 50m ahead). Trace path around to rear of tea house, and maintain direction along edge of woodland – golf course R – later bending L to lane.

EAST

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LINCOLNSHIRE WOODHALL SPA

EAST

Meandering south, it opened heartland industries to international trade. Originally, at Anderton Basin, cargoes were laboriously man-handled between the two systems using cranes, chutes and inclined planes. However, the vertical boat lift, commissioned in 1875, moved laden barges between the two in minutes using gravity alone. This walk showcases that 18th- and 19th-century industrial confidence and engineering ingenuity, taking in impressive stretches of both waterways, massive locks, weirs, swing bridges, a high aqueduct and two tunnels as well as one of Britain’s oldest laminated timber bridges, just beyond Dutton Locks.

GRADIENT PROFILE

PLAN YOUR WALK

ROUTE Start/parking Anderton Boat Lift Car Park; grid ref SJ648753, CW9 6AJ Is it for me? Canal towpaths and tracks Stiles 3

PLANNING Nearest town Northwich Refreshments Café at start, Leigh Arms by Acton Bridge and Davenport’s Tearoom by Bridge 210 Public toilets At start Public transport Bus 9a, Northwich-Warrington Maps OS Explorer 267; Landranger 118

Start Leaving car park, head for canal and go L towards Visitor Centre. Go forward over bridge spanning entrance to lift basin and carry on along the towpath for ½ mile. Reaching a footbridge, drop L on a descending path through trees to emerge opposite a junction.

THE RIVER WEAVER AND T&M CANAL

15 CHESHIRE

XDistance: 12½ miles/20.1km XTime: 4½ hours XGrade: Moderate

CUMBRIA AND CALDERS 16 WINDER

GRADIENT PROFILE

follow the road as it veers R. Continue NE past several houses, go through a gate and fork L on a track aiming for the hillside. Veer slightly L past some old barn buildings and then turn sharp L. Follow a wall briefly, fork R through a gate onto a walled lane, and head W on a wide track. At bend in track, continue W, crossing a wall via steps, and traverse the field below Canada Wood. In the corner of the field cross two stiles before crossing a stream and heading W through more gates to Lockbank Farm. Pass through the rather confusing farmyard, following the waymarkers, and go through a gate to arrive at open fellside. Turn L on a track and then almost immediately R

on a narrow trod climbing NW through gorse bushes. Beyond

Nearest town Sedbergh Refreshments The Dalesman Country Inn, Sedbergh (015396 21183) Public toilets Junction of Main Street and Joss Lane, Sedbergh town centre Public transport Kendal-Sedbergh W1 bus, Woof’s of Sedbergh (015396 20414) Maps OS Explorer OL19; Landranger 97 & 98; Harvey Maps XT25 Yorkshire Dales North West

PLANNING

Start/parking Joss Lane pay and display car park, Sedbergh, postcode LA10 5AS, grid ref SD658921 Is it for me? A simple walk over grassy terrain and good paths, but it’s steep in places with 750m of ascent Stiles 2

ROUTE

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XDistance: 6¾ miles/11km XTime: 4½ hours XGrade: Moderate

Views of Sedbergh from Winder.

CHOSEN BY… JAMES FORREST Lost in a no-man’s land between the Lakes and the Dales, part of Cumbria but located within the expanded Yorkshire Dales National Park, the grassy, domed hills of the Howgills are less frequented than their more famous Lake District neighbours. And that means a day in the Howgills can offer a welcome dose of silence and solitude. This route from Sedbergh, a charming town, climbs the tops of Winder, Arant Haw and Calders, before returning via Settlebeck Gill – a superb half day walk.

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Start Walk N up Joss Lane and

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The western end of Salterford Tunnel.

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CHOSEN BY… DENNIS KELSALL Britain’s Industrial Revolution would have been nothing without the canals, for until then, moving heavy goods overland required packhorse or cart. First opened in 1732 and ultimately widened to accommodate 1,000-ton seagoing craft, the Weaver Navigation dramatically expanded Cheshire’s salt industry, taking coal to Winsford and finished product back to the Mersey’s docks. The nearby canal, contouring 50 feet above, was operational by 1772, and completed a waterway link between the Mersey and Humber via the Trent Navigation.

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NORTH WEST

PHOTO: DENNIS KELSALL

PHOTO: JAMES FORREST

NORTH WEST

a path descending S, to the R of the stream again. Go through a kissing gate and down a narrow path to emerge at the wide track that leads to Joss Lane. Pass a barn, veer R and continue down the road back to the car park.

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2¾ miles/4.4km Beyond the lock cottages, continue with towpath, shortly crossing bridge to carry on by river. Keep going as the way later moves to the edge of successive fields and eventually becomes a field track. Where that later turns away, remain beside river, passing rowing sheds and then garden of The Leigh Arms. Carry on beneath

½ mile/800m Cross to road opposite, but immediately leave through gate on R and follow a path beside the Weaver Navigation. The river heads a parallel course just to the south. Further on a weir drains the cut into river behind. Eventually, joining a track, turn over bridge to Saltersford Locks

6¾ miles/10.9km Joining towpath, follow it R. The canal winds for some 4 miles, eventually reaching the Saltersford Tunnel.

5¾ miles/9.3km Immediately over bridge, leave R through bridle gate into Dutton Park. A track leads away, initially beside the river loop before dwindling to a path across pasture. Emerging at far side onto track, follow it R. Go past entrance to Dutton Lodge Farm, but on next bend, leave L over a stile. Walk away at edge of a couple of fields to meet the Trent & Mersey Canal.

Acton Swing Bridge and along a track. After another mile, cross a bridge to pass Dutton Locks to a second bridge.

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11 miles/17.7km With the hillside here too steep to contour, the engineers resorted to a narrow tunnel. While bargees had to ‘leg’ boats through, horses followed the ongoing path over the hill to rejoin the canal beyond. A short walk then leads to the Barnton Tunnel. The path again goes over the hill, crossing a lane on the top. After dropping downhill to the towpath beyond, it is then only a mile back to the Anderton Lift.

ST A RT

THE RIVER WEAVER AND T&M CANAL

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15 CHESHIRE

TIME TAKEN

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START

TIME TAKEN

4 miles/6.5km Retrace your steps to Rowantree Grains and stick to the High Dales Way, skirting to the L of Arant Haw. When you’re due S of Arant Haw’s summit, fork L on a faint trod and head S on the High Dales Way. Descend alongside Settlebeck Gill, sticking to the R of the steep-sided, V-shaped valley cut by the gill, and continue S to reach a dry stone wall. Go through a metal gate and pick up

DATE WALKED

1¾ miles/3km Turn R and head NE on a wide, grassy path to the broad col between Winder and Arant Haw. Continue NNE and, at a waymarker post, fork L and climb N to Arant Haw’s summit. Descend gently NE on a well-trodden, grassy path. Merge with the Dales High Way and descend gently N on a stony path to the col at Rowantree Grains. Pass to the R of a sheepfold and climb the obvious path ahead which, after a sharp switchback, arrives at the summit of Calders.

the bushes, follow the path as it veers NE. Several unofficial trods fork off L, taking a direct and steep line up Winder, but a more pleasant approach is to continue NE on the bridleway. As the path veers N, reach a four-way junction at a cairn. Turn L and climb a grassy trod to Winder’s summit trig.

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16 JUNE 2021

CUMBRIA WINDER AND CALDERS

NORTH WEST

CUMBRIA FELL 17 MUNCASTER

Ascending south west along the Muncaster Fell ridge.

Randelhow road. Fork R immediately and take track SW. Pass to R of water treatment works and cross stile. Head S on indistinct path across reedy field before crossing two further stiles. Continue S across boggy field to railway line. Take level crossing, follow boardwalk, go through gate and head SW towards Rabbit How.

½ mile/0.9km At T-junction, turn L. After 200m, turn R and ascend path gently W. Follow path through gorse and go through gate. Head NW briefly before following path as it ascends W and SW. Fork L to bypass Silver Knott and continue W on main path. Pass over brow, descend

GRADIENT PROFILE

W E

PLANNING

Nearest town Broughton-in-Furness Refreshments Fellbites Cafe (up the road) at Dalegarth station (01946 723192), plus King George IV pub and Bower House Inn nearby Public toilets Eskdale Green toilets at start Public transport Take a mainline to Ravenglass and change for a Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway narrow gauge train to The Green (see ravenglass-railway.co.uk) Maps OS Explorer OL6; Landranger 89 & 96

Start/parking Lake District National Park’s free car park on Smithybrow Lane, grid ref NY141002, postcode CA19 1TX Is it for me? Village roads; fell paths; forestry tracks; boggy in places Stiles 3

ROUTE

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XDistance: 7 miles/11.1km XTime: 4 hours XGrade: Moderate

E E SE TUR E 78 A G FE PA ON

NORTH WEST

STOODLEY PIKE & CRAGG VALE

18 WEST YORKSHIRE

scenery is the main draw, with many coming to walk the moors, converging on the famous 121-foot obelisk atop Stoodley Pike. Reaching the monument from the Withens Clough Reservoir, this walk next heads to Bell House – centre of the Coiners’ operations – before heading down into Cragg Vale.

Start Take road up to Withens Clough Reservoir. Continue alongside water past ‘The Pastures’ farm to bend in road. At signpost marked ‘public footpath to Stoodley Pike’ directs you through a small, latched gate up the pathway. At triangle of broken signposts take ‘Yorkshire Waterways

GRADIENT PROFILE

1¼ miles/2km Strike out east along paved pathway down through gate.

Permissive Path’. Continue uphill via gate, marker post and ladder stile. Head straight for Stoodley Pike monument.

Nearest town Hebden Bridge Refreshments The Hinchcliffe Arms country restaurant and bar, Cragg Vale (01422 883256) Public toilets None Public transport None Maps OS Explorer OL21, Landranger 103 and 104

PLANNING

Start/parking Withens Clough Reservoir car park, grid ref SD986232 Is it for me? Moorland paths and country lanes. Navigation skills required over Bell House Moor Stiles 7

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 5½ miles/9km XTime: 3½ hours XGrade: Moderate

E E SE TURE 48 A G FE PA ON

Looking back to Withens Clough from the path for Stoodley Pike.

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CHOSEN BY… DAVID NORRIS The Industrial Revolution and the religious revival figure strongly in the history of Calderdale and Cragg Vale. Their steep-sided valleys have attracted nonconformists as varied as the Methodist evangelist John Wesley and poet laureate Ted Hughes. In the 18th century, they were also home to a gang called the Cragg Vale Coiners who produced counterfeit gold coins. More recently they’ve have also fostered such eccentric customs as an open-air swim in a moorland dam on New Year’s Day and Easter Pace Egg plays with unfathomable plots. But the

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CHOSEN BY… JAMES FORREST What it lacks in height, it makes up in drama. Muncaster Fell, one of the 116 peaks described in Alfred Wainwright’s lesserknown book The Outlying Fells of Lakeland, is a small hill with the ruggedness of a big one. Wainwright describes its summit as a ‘magnificent, commanding panorama of great charm both seawards and inland to the mountains of Lakeland’. This walk takes in those superlative views, starting in Eskdale village, traversing the ridge and returning via woodland trails.

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Start Head SW and turn L down

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NORTH EAST

PHOTO: JAMES FORREST

PHOTO: DAVID NORRIS

NORTH EAST

START

3 miles/4.8km From Bell House climb road curving L to Keelham Farm. Next to post box, take faint track up to R (not signed or distinct at first, but snakes up to box stile). Cross meadow to Green Head Farm on Haseltine Lane. Diagonally opposite through gate a track drops down and curves L to a rickety stile. Continue straight to a gate. Head for an isolated stile and on to L of paddock. Go through wooden gate, on through metal gate, bear R to stile. Then take path to R which meanders down through Paper Mill Wood to a flimsy gate. Take path by wall along to gate/stile by telegraph pole. Head diagonally R through gate then alongside wall to Upper Lumb

barely discernible just tufted grass and marshland.

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TIME TAKEN

2¾ miles/4.5km Descend S on path. Rejoin main public footpath and turn R to head SW. Follow fence next to evergreen plantation, pass under electricity power lines and go through gate. Descend gently SW to path junction at Muncaster Tarn.

gently and traverse W and NW over undulating, boggy ground. Stick to most distinct path as it loops L and R before following wall SW. Go through gate and fork R to loop around boggy hollow. Fork L on lower of two paths to skirt S around higher ground. Pass huge stone etched ‘Ross’s Camp 1883’ and continue SW. At grid ref SD113982 turn R off path and climb steep trod, which heads N before turning sharply L uphill to summit.

5½ miles/8.7km At fingerpost sign, fork L and climb briefly NE through gate. Turn R, head E and then NE next to wall. Where walls turn R, continue straight on and follow grassy path as it

Turn L and walk SE through woodland. Beyond another gate path veers R and descends E. Pass to L of large house and historic tower and descend ENE through woodland below Raw Crag. Pass green shed, veer R to minor road and turn L. Walk past houses at High Eskholme and continue NE as road becomes track. Fork R, cross Ridding Gill and continue NE on forestry track past Gowder Barrow, Parkhouse Moss and Birks Coppice all the way to junction for Horse Parks.

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zig-zags NE down to gate next to track. Turn R through gate and veer E across grassy field. Skirt NE and N, following edge of Bankend Wood. Beyond gap in wall, cross stream, go through gate and take walled path NE to The Green station. Turn L over level crossing before station and head NW up driveway and along rough track past several houses. After brief descent track becomes road. Fork R and head NW through village back to car park.

START

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17 CUMBRIA MUNCASTER FELL

TIME TAKEN

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4½ miles/7.1km Cross bridge. Take streamside path marked Calderdale Way Link Path upstream to St John the Baptist in the Wilderness church. Turn R over bridge. Continue up past The Hinchcliffe Arms to the mock Tudor vicarage alongside the Arts & Crafts style gatehouse. Continue up Rudd Lane all the way back to car park.

Barn. Turn L to walk down track which zigzags past cottages and down to bridge.

DATE WALKED

Continue straight on at 4-way signpost towards Dick’s Lane. Turn L at wall and follow track to Cragg Road where there is a signpost pointing to Daisy Bank. At this point three tracks meet. Take middle one (not signposted, doesn’t correlate with OS map) aiming for the middle of three telegraph poles and marker stone. At second marker stone, take R fork towards wooded valley, down to 3-way signpost. Follow path pointing back to Bell House along a stony and boggy track. After a short distance the path climbs a stone staircase to wooden walking ducts. 200m further on a post illustrates a footpath diversion to avoid boggy moorland. Take higher path. Two marker posts further on a yellow arrow points down to Bell House a short distance down slope but the path is

STOODLEY PIKE & CRAGG VALE

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18 JUNE 2021

WEST YORKSHIRE

NORTH WEST

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NORTH YORKSHIRE VALLEY 19 WASHBURN

Washburn Valley from Middle Farm.

Lindley reservoir the route first tracks the Washburn upstream. Then, heading downstream, a section of the Nidderdale AONB’s 38-milelong Six Dales Trail guides the way, complemented by fine views across the eastern slope of the Washburn Valley. The final stretch of the walk follows the shoreline of Lindley Wood Reservoir through the woodland after which the dam is named.

Start Facing B6451 head L over reservoir viaduct – with a picturesque viewpoint south over the water – and turn R along dam’s northern tip to follow Washburn. Cross bridge, and divert L to walk with wall

GRADIENT PROFILE

PLAN YOUR WALK

ROUTE Start/parking Limited roadside parking either side of the viaduct carrying the B6451 over the northern end of Lindley Wood Reservoir, LS21 2RA, grid ref SE209500. Alternatively, there are a few roadside spaces at the Lindley Bridge southern end of the reservoir, grid ref SE224483 Is it for me? Moderately undulating riverbank, field paths/tracks, woodland and quiet lanes Stiles 9

PLANNING

Nearest town Otley Refreshments None (nearest in Otley 3½ miles) Public toilets None (nearest in Otley) Public transport None (Otley served by buses) Maps OS Explorer 297; Landranger 104

COUNTY DURHAM MOOR 20SOUTH

GRADIENT PROFILE

1½ miles/2.4km Path passes through a wood and solar farm to road. Cross and continue on broad

Heritage Trail signboard. Fork R on broader path then fork L. Turn L at a metal gate (mushroom sculptures, Woodland Walk). Keep on main path. Turn L at T-junction. Ignore gate R into field (solar farm proposed here) and turn R across stream to pass through a well-spaced wood. Go through metal gate and continue, keeping fence on R. When track swings R, keep straight with high fence on R. Go on through metal gate to road. Turn R for 150m, cross road to a hidden footpath after passing second site entrance.

Chapman’s Well Nature Reserve.

track. Ignore tracks L and R but turn L on well-signed path over

Nearest town Stanley Refreshments Numerous places in Lanchester Public toilets None Public transport Bus 30 from Stanley. Bus X5 or X15 from Consett or Durham City to Lanchester Maps OS Explorer 307, Landranger 88

PLANNING

Start/parking South Moor Memorial Park, grid ref NZ190513, postcode DH9 7EZ. Alternative start, lay-by at Lanchester Bowling Club, grid ref NZ167475, DH7 0LG Is it for me? Mostly good paths but some are not on OS maps. If not requiring mid-walk hospitality start from Lanchester so climbing is done early Stiles 12

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 8¾ miles/14km XTime: 4½ hours XGrade: Moderate

CHOSEN BY… PAUL & CHRISTINE MONAGHAN This lovely, varied walk opens with a natural park leading to mature deciduous woodland. It then crosses and later returns to Chapman’s Well Nature Reserve. Twenty years ago this was an open cast mine. Nature has quickly returned it to heath and moorland. Watch out for roe deer and moorland ponies. We next pass through Greenwell Park, the grounds of a stately home. A climb through mixed woodland leads to a fine view.

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Start Take broad path L of bowling green, fork R up steps and go straight on. Note

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XDistance: 7½ miles/ 12.1km XTime: 3 hours XGrade: Moderate

CHOSEN BY… CAROL BURKINSHAW Drink in the views of the Nidderdale’s Washburn Valley, a hilly home to a descending chain of four reservoirs, supplying the city of Leeds. From the remote, moorland setting of Thruscross Reservoir, constructed in the 1960s, the Washburn’s scenery progressively softens on its journey to the Wharfe via Fewston, Swinsty and finally Lindley Wood Reservoir. This route focuses on the Lindley Wood body of water in the lower valley, which was the first of the quartet of dams to be built in the 1870s. From the three-arched viaduct that carries the B6451 across

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NORTH EAST

PHOTO: CAROL BURKINSHAW

PHOTO: P&C MONAGHAN

5¼ miles/8.5km Cross road diagonally L to broad path. At next road cross diagonally L to path. Cross next road and follow broad track out of village. Turn L along fence

7 miles/11.2km At T-junction turn R then L. Track turns R near a pond. After a short distance turn L through gates on good track. At a junction by stone walls keep straight on a narrower path. Do not go through gate to houses; take path at edge of wood to return to Heritage

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signboard. Return by original path or take the R fork uphill for 60m. Where narrow paths fork R and L, take one on L through woods. Pass L of fence and stay above dene to steps to start point.

TIME TAKEN

after gate and stile. Return to village past playground. Turn L at road then first R. Pass football pitch and continue on path (do not enter wood).

3¼ miles/5.25km Turn R to climb broad winding track to Middle Farm and continue up lane. After passing through belt of trees and entrance to Dob Park House R, go L at sign for Six Dales Trail. Almscliff Crag, a prominent millstone grit

2¼ miles/3.6km Bear L with Washburn on Six Dales Trail. Later in woodland, path moves slightly away from river. Look out for small metal gate L. In quick succession, cross beck to pass through this gate, ascend to negotiate another stream, and after next gate rejoin Washburn. Follow watercourse to track. To your L the early 17th-century gracefully-arched Dob Park packhorse bridge once carried the route from Dob Park Mill.

1¼ miles/2km Veer L, and when lane bends R keep ahead along L-hand field edge on signed bridleway. Then, guided by yellow waymarked gates, stick forwards along R-hand field borders to gate at Folly Hall. Pass below farmhouse, curling R to unsigned T-junction in farmyard. Drop L down track to bridge over Washburn. Cross bridge, go L beside river and over a footbridge.

R. Go through gate, and hug river to track. Turn R, and climb steeply uphill to lane.

5¼ miles/8.45km Immediately after track swings L at farm, go through unsigned gate R along R-hand field perimeter. Head diagonally L in next field, and then arc R with field boundaries/line of trees to B6451. Cross and descend fields, with outlook over Lindley Wood Reservoir and its

outcrop, can be seen in the distance. At wall corner path curves R and heads down past plantation to Crag Farm.

START

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dam wall, to lane. Descend L to go over Lindley Bridge, and as lane begins to rise divert L, signed Norwood Bottom. Clear woodland path joins reservoir shoreline to later become track back to start.

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19 NORTH YORKSHIRE WASHBURN VALLEY

TIME TAKEN

3¾ miles/6km Continue past church along main road out of village. Turn L over stile and climb diagonally to top R of field. Cross stile. Turn L then R over another stile and pass R of buildings to stile into wood. Climb to a crossing track and turn R. When track splits, fork L. Follow track L to pass R of television mast.

JUNE 2021

DATE WALKED

stile. Turn R after stile then after next stile diagonally downhill aiming for marked trees. After a stile descend L of gorse-filled gully to stile. Keep to R edge of field (waymark inexact), then L after next stile. Pass R of house over stile to road. Turn R then L at main road. If refreshment required, deviate into village; otherwise continue to Bowling Club (alternative start point).

Lanchester has an array of eateries from takeaways, coffee shops, a Greek taverna, pubs and fine dining (Ravellos is popular with locals).

DON’T MISS...

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COUNTY DURHAM SOUTH MOOR

NORTH EAST

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Scots pine on Offa’s Dyke.

Dyke where it snakes across the hills to the south. There are wonderful views to enjoy before you descend eastwards to the village of Norton. Then, heading south again, you pass briefly into Herefordshire before crossing the River Lugg back into Wales, where the tiny town of Presteigne (or Llanandras) makes a fitting end to a gorgeous walk. Like Knighton, Presteigne is full of colour and charm, with plenty of historical interest. It also has a bit of an alternative vibe, with a lively music scene and an annual festival.

Start Consult on-site map in bus station/car park then join Station Road which leads to

GRADIENT PROFILE

Nearest town Knighton & Presteigne Refreshments As above Public toilets Knighton & Presteigne Public transport Bus 41 links Knighton & Kington via Presteigne, Mon-Sat. Bus 461/462 provides Hereford connection at Kington; Buses 738/740 from Ludlow & X11 from Ludlow & Builth Wells, Mon only; Knighton on Heart of Wales train line Maps OS Explorer 201; Landranger 148

PLANNING

Start/parking Bus station/ car park, Bowling Green Lane, Knighton, grid ref SO288722, postcode LD7 1DJ (or nearby train station) Is it for me? Sheep and cattle pasture, woods, arable field, traffic-free lanes, good paths Stiles 11

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

POWYS TO PRESTEIGNE 21 KNIGHTON

XDistance: 8½ miles/13.5km XTime: 4 hours XGrade: Moderate

GWYNEDD FAWDDWY 22 ARAN

straight down the U-shaped Cwm Cywarch.

Start From the cark park, turn R down lane, then L over footbridge next to ford. Continue along the track, passing sheep pens on R, then straight on up rough track. Upon reaching good green track, continue over step stile and follow track to a gate.

1 mile/1.6km Head through a gate and follow fence on the L. When this bends a little L, continue straight along path leading diagonally uphill, following for nearly 1 mile. At col, take L fork heading

GRADIENT PROFILE

Nearest town Dolgellau Refreshments Y Llew Coch/The Red Lion, Dinas Mawddwy (01650 531247) or The Buckley Arms Hotel, Minllyn, Dinas Mawddwy (01650 531261) Public toilets Portable cabin at car park Public transport None Maps OS Explorer OL23; Landranger 124; Harvey Maps Superwalker Snowdonia Aran

PLANNING

Start/parking Car park at Blaencywarch, Cwm Cywarch, grid ref SH852188, nearest postcode SY20 9JG Is it for me? Mountain ascent, sometimes steep and involving rock hopping, but never scrambling. Plenty of bog and numerous stream crossings. Some route finding required. Stiles 8

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 7 miles/ 11.4km XTime: 5-6 hours XGrade: Challenging

Looking down the Cywarch Valley.

CHOSEN BY… MATTHEW PIKE At 905 metres, Aran Fawddwy is the highest summit in southern Snowdonia (a comfortable 12 metres higher than Cadair Idris) so climbing it is no mean feat. Near the top, moorland gives way to crags and boulders, making for a fun final ascent. The views are spectacular, overlooking the lake of Creiglyn Dyfi down the mountain’s almost sheer eastern face, and stretching as far as the Brecon Beacons and the Lake District. On the way down you pass the intimidating and magnificent rock face of Craig Cywarch, followed by a beautiful view

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CHOSEN BY… JULIE ROYLE There are several places called Knighton in Britain, but there’s only one Tref-y-clawdd, which means town-on-the-dyke. Like most Welsh place-names it’s a literal description; Knighton really is built on Offa’s Dyke, emphasising its border town status. Nowadays, however, it’s not Offa’s Dyke but the River Teme which marks the border, putting the rail station and a handful of other buildings in Shropshire. You can find out more about Tref-y-clawdd and Clawdd Offa at the excellent Offa’s Dyke Centre, but this linear walk whisks you rapidly out of town to to discover a superb stretch of Offa’s

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WALES

PHOTO: JULIE ROYLE

PHOTO: MATTHEW PIKE

6 miles/9.7km As you approach the rocky slopes of Glasgwm, the fence veers R. Instead, continue ahead towards Glasgwm and into gully. Cross stream and head down its right -hand side, soon crossing it again and heading down steep path to L of stream. Eventually, you reach large footbridge (by which time the path has taken you over the stream again, so you won’t need to use it).

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6½ miles/10.5km From the footbridge continue down the R side of stream along clear path that leads to farm track at holiday cabin. Turn R here, passing farm on R to car park also on R.

2 TIME TAKEN

3¾ miles/6.2km Retrace steps to noted step stile and cross, then turn L to follow fence. Soon cross another step stile on L, then another immediately on R, and continue to L of fence. Stay close to fence for 1½ miles with steep patches on descent

START

3 DATE WALKED

at first, then boggy moorland with rotting boardwalks.

JUNE 2021

5½ miles/8.8km Meet road at Norton opposite church. Turn R, then L on lane. Approaching Norton Brook, notice motte-and-bailey

3¾ miles/6km Having crossed hilltop and descended 300m, you reach gate into huge pasture. Look 150m downhill L to see another gate, into Impton Wood. You need to pass through this gate, but to get there on public footpaths follow ODP sharp R to field corner. Turn round, leave ODP and re-cross the pasture, following bridleway to gate. Descend through Impton Wood and into farmland. About 200m beyond wood, approaching farm buildings, go through bridle gate L, daubed with yellow paint. Go diagonally across field to meet a track as it forks. Take lower branch and continue down.

Broad Street. Cross over and take Brookside, which becomes Larkey Lane. Go uphill to cross A488 to Ffrydd Terrace and Offa’s Dyke Path (ODP). Follow ODP up Ffrydd Hill, through woods at first, then past golf course and along field edges. ODP is mostly easily followed but watch for it changing to other side of hedge/fence at one point. Turn L on road at Rhos-y-meirch, then soon R. After 400m ODP takes to fields on L to cross Hawthorn Hill. START

L. Follow lane steeply uphill. Ignore overgrown footpath but turn R at lane junction and descend to valley. Turn L at junction and keep straight on at next. After another 350m take footpath R. Go diagonally L across field to stile near far corner. Continue across field on well-made path, cross stile and proceed to far corner of pasture. Turn R on lane towards Presteigne. Keep straight on to

FINISH

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centre. Buses to Knighton and Kington stop on Hereford Street (L) and/or recycling centre (follow signs).

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21 POWYS KNIGHTON TO PRESTEIGNE

TIME TAKEN

3¼ miles/5.3km Cross the step stile (it might be easiest to follow your nose here, aiming straight up and never veering too far R). Otherwise, a faint path leads along the R side of a shallow gully, then veers L, passing giant diagonal slab on R, and up to small cairn. Head for marker post (actually an elongated rock) at top of next hill, eventually passing to L of it. Note the step stile on L. Don’t climb this, but stick to ridgetop leading towards top. Path leads to L of summit, then swings R to summit cairn.

2½ miles/3.9km Don’t follow the fence on the R, but continue straight towards the memorial in the distance. A faint, but visible path keeps towards L of the ridge. After passing the memorial, follow fence that bends R to step stile.

over two footbridges marked with small wooden posts. Veer L up broad ridge, with fence 10m–20m on right, eventually reaching step stile.

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GWYNEDD ARAN FAWDDWY

WALES

GWYNEDD 23 MAESGLASE

A rocky outcrop from Craig Maesglase.

Start Head back to Wylecop St, turn R, then R again, briefly following main road. At far side of layby on L, take path heading steeply up into trees. This leads to forest track. Turn R here, then L, following footpath sign and yellow arrow sign uphill. The path zigzags at first (follow the yellow then white arrow), eventually leaving forest via stile.

¾ mile/1.1km Follow fence and trees on right. When they stop, continue to contour hillside on vague path, which soon forks in three. Take L fork leading diagonally uphill to well above fence line (if you reach a fence you’ll need to retrace your steps).

GRADIENT PROFILE

W E

Nearest town Dolgellau Refreshments Y Llew Coch / The Red Lion, Dinas Mawddwy (01650 531247) or The Buckley Arms Hotel, Minllyn, Dinas Mawddwy (01650 531261) Public toilets Dyfi Terrace, Dinas Mawddwy Public transport Limited 33/36 bus services from Dolgellau/Machynleth (lloydscoaches.com) Maps OS Explorer OL23; Landranger 124; Harvey Superwalker Cadair Idris

PLANNING

Start/parking Free parking in Dyfi Terrace, Dinas Mawddwy, grid ref SH859149, postcode (approx) SY20 9JD Is it for me? Ascents and descents steep at times. Plenty of exposure, rough tracks and paths very uneven in places. Some route finding necessary Stiles 4

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 7 miles/11.3km XTime: 5 hours XGrade: Challenging

WALES

INVERCLYDE WEE CUT 24 THE

GRADIENT PROFILE

car park. It is reached by following Old Largs Road from Greenock for 7 miles. From here exit L from the car park onto a minor road (known as the Overton Track), go through the gate beside the cattle grid and walk past the cafe. Continue northeast past Compensation Reservoir taking in views of Dunrod Hill. Compensation Reservoir was built between 1825-27 as part of 19th-century engineer Robert Thom’s hydro scheme. Beyond Compensation Reservoir, the track rises gradually past Loch Thom and Loch Thom Cottage; as the track sweeps R there is fabulous view across the loch. Keep on for another 1km.

The Firth of Clyde from above the Wee Cut.

1¼ mile/2km Just as track begins to descend beneath White Hill, bear L at junction on to access

Nearest town Greenock Refreshments Ardgowan Fishery Cafe, Clyde Muirshiel Country Park (07533 329844) Public toilets Visitor Centre at start Public transport None to start, but buses & trains serve nearby Greenock & Inverkip Maps OS Explorer 341; Landranger 63

PLANNING

Start/parking Greenock Cut Visitor Centre, Clyde Muirshiel Country Park, grid ref NS247721, nearest postcode PA16 9LX Is it for me? Good paths and tracks Stiles None

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 4½ miles/7.5km XTime: 2 hours XGrade: Moderate

CHOSEN BY… KEITH FERGUS Heading high above Greenock in Clyde Muirshiel Country Park, this walk around the Wee Cut aqueduct crosses a stretch of moorland that offers incredible views as well as visiting three smaller reservoirs, which were crucial to the success of the Greenock Cut. This incredible feat of engineering was designed by Robert Thom in the 19th century to supply clean water to the residents of Greenock and to power its mills. It is now recognised as a scheduled monument.

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Start Begin from Greenock Cut Visitor Centre which has a large

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E E SE TUR E 16 A G FE PA ON

CHOSEN BY… MATTHEW PIKE This is a tough but rewarding walk, initially offering a fantastic front-on view of Maesglase. Its eastern ridge can look like a folded piece of paper – the sun often catching one side, with the other in darkness. Once up high, you walk exhilaratingly close to the rocky cliffs of Craig Maesglase, with the chance to perch on a narrow outcrop that gazes over a waterfall and the deep surrounding valleys. Then from the top of Maen Du you can see the Cambrian Mountains of Mid Wales to the south, and the Rhinogau and Aran ranges to the north.

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SCOTLAND

PHOTO: MATTHEW PIKE

PHOTO: KEITH FERGUS

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2¾ miles/4.4km Path continues close (often very close) to ridge, to top of

Eventually, you reach step stile, soon after which path veers R over narrow col.

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6 5

wood. Just before second gate, take path R. Veer L when this joins rough track.

T R A ST

6½ miles/10.5km Follow this to road at entrance to caravan park. Turn R and road leads back into Dinas Mawddwy, where car park is on R.

JUNE 2021

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23 GWYNEDD MAESGLASE

TIME TAKEN

2¾ miles/4.5km Turn R, take gradual rise all the way to Overton Track. Make a R, for steady rise back to outward-bound track beneath White Hill. Retrace steps back to Greenock Cut Visitor Centre.

JUNE 2021

DATE WALKED

SCOTLAND

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INVERCLYDE THE WEE CUT

WALES

PERTH & KINROSS LEDNOCK 25 GLEN

GRADIENT PROFILE

⅔ mile/1.2km Path continues past Wee Caldron to climb back to main path, which itself climbs to minor road left earlier. Beside road, path crosses boardwalks with handrails high above gorge and reaches junction. Descend steep steps R (with handrails) to viewing platform at Deil’s Caldron, where river runs through narrow gorge to churning pools and waterfalls. Regain junction and turn R to climb steeply back up to road.

Deil’s Caldron. Path runs between trees and fields, curving into gorge of River Lednock high above left-hand bank. Take signposted side path down to viewing platform at Wee Caldron.

1¼ miles/2km Steep woodland path

3 14

Go R 50m to path on L signposted Lord Melville’s Monument. NB To bypass steep 100m climb to monument, take easy short cut along road.

Nearest town Comrie Refreshments Cafés and restaurants in village Public toilets In Comrie Public transport Bus 15 from Perth/Stirling (stagecoachbus.com) Maps OS Explorer 368; Landranger 51

PLANNING

Start/parking Car park off A85 at west end of village, grid ref NN772220, postcode PH6 2DN Is it for me? On good paths, occasionally muddy, with steep steps secured by handrails Stiles 2

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 4¾ miles/7.5km XTime: 2¼ hours XGrade: Moderate

‘Wee Caldron’ at point 2.

CHOSEN BY… RALPH STORER Comrie is an award-winning picturesque village that is known as the Gateway to the Highlands. Its position on the Highland Boundary Fault makes it the ‘earthquake capital’ of Britain and has earned it the nickname Shaky Town. On its outskirts the River Lednock forces itself through the scenic gorge of the ‘Deil’s Caldron’ (i.e. Devil’s Cauldron).

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Start From car park turn R on A85 (pedestrian pavement). At L bend go straight on along minor road. At next L bend take gritted path R, signposted

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SCOTLAND

COUNTY DOWN FOREST PARK 26TOLLYMORE

⅓ mile/0.5km From here the path heads west upstream beside the Shimna River, its gorgeous, clear waters tumbling downhill. The woodland here is stunning, particularly during the autumn months. Keep straight on past the bridge on the L and continue upstream. When the path splits keep L, walk through an area known as The Hermitage. It was built in 1770 by James Hamilton, 2nd Earl of Clanbrassil, as a memorial to his friend John Montague, the Marquess of Monthermer who died in 1770 aged only 35. The Hermitage consists of two circular chambers each with a domed

beneath bridge after which path splits. Take either path enjoying views out to Donard Forest Park. Continue through parkland crossing bridge then track. Continue to waymark and turn R.

The gorgeous Shimna River.

1½ miles/2.5km Go L across bridge, at its

roof. Climb flight of steps, pass through chambers then climb steps, go L past several waterfalls. The path soon drops down to run alongside river, in due course passing Spinkwee River as it enters Shimna here. Continue all the way to Parnell’s Bridge, built in 1842 and named after Irish Politician Sir John Parnell.

Nearest town Newcastle Refreshments None on route. A wide choice in Newcastle. Try Quinn’s Bar (028 4372 6400) Public toilets At Tollymore Forest Park Public transport None Maps OSNI Discoverer Series Sheet 29

PLANNING

Start/parking Tollymore Forest Park car park near Newcastle, postcode BT33 0PR, grid ref J345325 Is it for me? Well-made forest paths and tracks Stiles None

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

XDistance: 3 miles/4.75km XTime: 1½ hours XGrade: Easy

CHOSEN BY… KEITH FERGUS Sitting in the shadow of the Mourne Mountains, and just a stone’s throw from the town of Newcastle in County Down, Tollymore Forest Park is a stunning area of gorgeous woodland. The crystal clear waters of the Spinkwee and Shimna rivers cascade down through the park where there is lots of birdlife to spot. On good paths all the way, this wonderful route follows the course of the rivers as well as visiting the curious 18th-century Hermitage.

Start Tollymore Forest Park sits 4km northwest of Newcastle. From car park walk to its R corner beside information board. Turn R onto path, follow this to first path on L. Take this downhill through archway

IRELAND

PHOTO: RALPH STORER

PHOTO: KEITH FERGUS

2 miles/3.25km Cross bridge, continue downstream alongside Shimna River to reach a path on L. Follow this, passing Hermitage

2¾ miles/4.5km Retrace steps and cross Old Bridge then take path

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directly ahead, walk uphill to junction. Cross track, bear L, follow road to car park.

DATE WALKED

on opposite bank, to fork. Go L onto rougher path which soon culminates at track. Turn L, follow this to Old Bridge (built in 1726). Don’t cross it, instead turn R, follow path to lovely little lake, a great spot for a picnic break.

JUNE 2021

2¼ miles/3.5km Across bridge, turn R on narrow riverside path. After crossing stile it climbs steps and runs through bracken to kissing gate at entrance to Laggan Wood. Note seat just before gate with view of monument across river. Once into wood, path climbs further then levels out through felled area before beginning long descent. At fork go R down wide woodland path. At next

4 1½ miles/2.5km Return to transverse path and go L to descend to unsurfaced old road known as the Maam Road. Follow road R through gap between walls and immediately bear R down short-cut path to avoid long zigzag. Rejoin road lower down at hairpin bend and immediately leave it again for another short-cut path down to minor road (stile). Go R along road for 50m then L along path (signpost Laggan Wood) to ‘Shaky Bridge’, which crosses River Lednock through sycamore tree.

climbs straight up hillside before zigzagging to ease angle. On skyline it veers L to foot of Dunmore Hill, reaching a transverse path and sign ‘Monument’ just below summit. Continue to summit for spectacular views, mountain indicator and 150ft-tall obelisk erected in 1812 to memory of Lord Melville. 4

START

4¼ miles/6.75km Go R along the track

(less distinct) fork go R down steps that descend steep hillside. At waymark ignore L branch and go straight on to reach all-abilities path at hairpin bend. Go R to descend to riverside picnic area beside old weir and continue along riverbank to reach former railway line with bridge over river.

JUNE 2021

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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VIEW THE WALK ON OS MAPS ONLINE:

to a set of crossroads. A narrower path continues between the houses and a field back to the car park and the end of the walk.

XOS Explorer map 368 XBuy maps at: ordnancesurvey.co.uk/shop

25 PERTH & KINROSS GLEN LEDNOCK

TIME TAKEN

end keep L. When track splits again go L, continue east along south bank of river, all the way to junction at Altavaddy Bridge, which spans Spinkwee River.

ST AR T

XOSNI Discoverer Series Sheet 29 XBuy maps at: mapshop.nidirect.gov.uk/

COUNTY DOWN TOLLYMORE FOREST PARK

SCOTLAND

PHOTO: ROGER BUTLER

W E

HIGHLAND (ISLE OF EIGG) SGÙRR 27 AN XDistance: 6½ miles/10.5km XTime: 6 hours XGrade: Challenging

while the sheer east-facing cliffs are an extreme rock climb, walkers can reach the top via paths over the surrounding moorland. This is one of the finest viewpoints on Scotland’s west coast and the glistening seascape includes Rum, Skye, Ardnamurchan and the Outer Hebrides. The unusual hexagonal formations on the broad summit ridge

are the result of volcanic activity 60 million years ago and, after leaving the airy trig point, the route descends to a series of little lochs and drops to a track which passes through evocative former crofting townships on the way back to the pier.

LEGEND OF THE HEBRIDES CHOSEN BY… ROGER BUTLER There’s always something special about a Hebridean island but the crofts and beaches on Eigg are topped off with one of the most distinctive and eye-catching summits in Britain. The pitchstone ridge known as An Sgùrr rises above the harbour like an ancient monolith and,

CLASSIC WALK

Rising sheer from the surrounding moorland, An Sgùrr is a sight to behold on arrival to Eigg.

SCOTLAND

0 km 0

200

400

600

GRADIENT PROFILE

2¼ miles/3.75km Return to the bealach,

1½ miles/3km The path steadily climbs towards an obvious gully and continues, with a little scrambling, up to an easy rocky incline and a grassy bealach on the main ridge. There are suddenly panoramic views in every direction with the mountains of Rum dominating the view to the north-west. Turn L to reach the cylindrical trig point after 500m, close to the edge of The Nose. There are sheer drops north, east and south – take extra care if the weather has closed in.

4½ miles/7.25km Follow for 2km, past wind turbines, and go R through gate after the large house to retrace steps back down to the pier.

3¾ miles/6km A broad path now runs south-east, parallel to coast and below An Sgùrr. Follow for 1.25km to the second group of ruins at Carnan Ghrulin, where a whitewashed bothy (private) marks the start of a good track.

3½ miles/5.5km Descend alongside the stream, through heather (no path), for 200m and then veer south-west for 200m to the ruins at the deserted settlement of Grulin Iochdrach – one of two former settlements, with rows of old lazy beds, perched above lonely coves and cliffs.

descend back down the gully and turn L towards the south shore of Loch nam Bàn Mòra – a couple of paths run through the heather. Turn west at the far end of the loch (there’s little in the way of a path now) and walk on S side of small hill named An Corrach. Trend north-west for 200m towards the head of a stream.

3 4

ST A RT

Fantastic views from nearby Muck.

PHOTO: ROGER BUTLER

Formidable pitchstone cliffs form the south side of An Sgùrr.

¾ mile/1.25km Take the path on R next to cairn and the first in a series of intermittent waymarks. Stay on path, sometimes boggy, as it crosses open moorland and swings west, past the eastern cliffs known as The Nose,

Start From the pier fork L up minor lane with woods on R. Pass the community hall on R and keep ahead as a track bends L around the edge of the wood. Go through gate into open field and follow track towards a large isolated house with An Sgùrr now a dramatic landmark on the skyline. Pass through another gate at R of house and turn L on good track for 100m.

to contour below the north side of the main pitchstone ridge.

XOS Explorer map 397 XBuy maps at: ordnancesurvey.co.uk/shop

HIGHLAND (ISLE OF EIGG) AN SGÙRR

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VIEW THE WALK ON OS MAPS ONLINE:

Nearest towns Mallaig & Fort William Refreshments Café by the pier Public toilets At the pier Public transport Train to Mallaig and ferry to Eigg (90 minute journey; calmac.co.uk); Sheerwater ferry from Arisaig (April-September, arisaig.co.uk) Maps OS Explorer 397; Landranger 39

PLANNING

Start/finish By the main pier at Galmisdale; grid ref NM484838, postcode PH42 4RL Is it for me? A rough walk to an exposed summit with a little scrambling – not recommended in mist Stiles None

ROUTE

PLAN YOUR WALK

CLASSIC WALK

JUNE 2021

TIME TAKEN

metres

PHOTO: ROGER BUTLER

OUR ROUTES YOUR WALKS Tackled one of the routes published in Country Walking? Send us a picture and a few words on your experience: you could win a fantastic prize from Ordnance Survey. THIS MONTH’S PRIZE WINNER

Email your picture, along with a few words about the walk and your contact details to cwroutes@ bauermedia. co.uk

MIDLANDS

WORCESTERSHIRE 08 WOLVERLEY

WOLVERLEY, Route 8, Aug 2020 Connie is a nurse, who started in March 2020 when the first lockdown hit. Since then she has been very busy, which I am very proud of her for. We have felt quite anxious about leaving our local area due to lockdown, and this was our first walk in months. It did us the world of good! This walk was full of nature, the canal was peaceful and the route was easy to follow, and definitely family friendly. It was a refreshing break from our city home. Sean Moss & Connie Barnes, Coventry 1

SOUTH WEST

WILTSHIRE 03LIDDINGTON HILL

LIDDINGTON HILL, Route 3, April 2021 My husband and I did this in Wiltshire, on Easter Sunday. We drove from Berkshire across the border to have a change of scenery now restrictions have started lifting, and Wiltshire has some fantastic open countryside. It was a beautiful day, if a little windy up there, and we enjoyed the inclusion of the iron age hillfort half-way around. It was hard to choose a photo from the walk as the views were all stunning, but I’ve chosen this one of my two favourite things – my husband and our dog – standing at the top of the hillfort. Rachel Burden, Email 1

BARNT GREEN, Route 09, Spring 2018 We saw alpacas and a jay, and Cofton Church looked stunning. We missed a turn and had to retrace our steps but it was worth it as we met some friendly horses, and cute lambs who posed for photos. Debbie Wilbur (& daughter Jennifer), Email 1

SCOTLAND

DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY THE MERRICK

SOUTH EAST

DITCHLING COMMON, Route 04, May 2021 My magazine had arrived the very morning of this walk! I perused the routes over 04 breakfast. This one is a stone’s throw from my house so off I went. I’ve always been a bit nervous to follow the routes in case I get lost, but decided local would be good practice. I had a lovely 10-mile walk, the route was easy to follow and it took me along paths I haven’t been on before. The view from the beacon is amazing – I will never tire of it, and a half-way ice cream is always a treat. Lindsay Coleman, Sussex

THE MERRICK , Route 25, June 2020 Our first walk here. What stunning views. Was made even more special by following your route down through the loch valley. With it being a good dry spell we avoided the usual bog. One of the best walks we have done – STUNNING! 25 Neil & Sue McCormick, Dumfries

EAST SUSSEX

DITCHLING COMMON & BEACON

MIDLANDS

WORCESTERSHIRE 09 BARNT GREEN

1 2 ¯

Win a personalised OS map!

NORTH WEST

SCHOLAR GREEN, Route 15, April 2021 This route triggered fond memories of 10+ years ago. I decided to revisit the walk to Little Moreton Hall and turned the 9-mile walk into almost 15 double by adding on Mow Cop Folly and other paths. Martin Keegan, Email

CHESHIRE/STAFFORDSHIRE SCHOLAR GREEN

The sender of our favourite Our Routes Your Walks photo will get to focus on their favourite area by winning a custom-made map worth £16.99, courtesy of Ordnance Survey. For more details, or to buy your own personalised map, visit os.co.uk/custommade

JUNE 2021 COUNTRY WALKING 129

5MIVLMZQVO[ _M KW]TLV¼\ Å\ QV\W \PM Q[[]M J]\ _PQKP [MMUML \MZZQJTa QUXWZ\IV\ I\ \PM \QUM Rob Holmes, Senior Art Editor Miles walked this month: 62 What a month of changes April was! From crazy weather extremes to the relief of ﬁnally being able to get out and do more outdoors after months of ﬁnding ways to amuse ourselves at home. Here’s my April in pictures…

Miles walked this month: 67

…and hail!

Clear blue skies…

Random Oasis moment

Susie Rogers, Marketing Manager

In memory of George and Doris

Those people look like they’re walking on water!

Don’t you just love spring?

Note to self: Roll on summer…!

Philip Thomas, Staff Writer Miles walked this month: 121

Smells get me to my happy place. Very early this morning while the family were still snoozing and I enjoyed precious ‘me time’, the sun was rising and the air crisp, I enjoyed clearing my mind before work. Part of it included walking past a field full of deep, fresh cowpats and the wind was just right as it hit me full ”It hit me full force, filling up my nostrils with force, filling up that unmistakeable, amazingly my nostrils powerful aroma! I was transported with that back to my childhood in South unmistakeable Wales leaping through the field trying to avoid the cowpats on aroma!“ our way to primary school and belly laughing at my best friend who always managed to trip into one. The stress of the day ahead had already slipped away as my memories of cow dung had taken over.

Note to self: I need to ﬁnd something better than the smell of cattle.

...that unmistakeable, amazingly powerful aroma...

E-I-E-I-O

Walkies

Cottage cravings

A few weeks back I came across something I didn’t think existed anymore: a proper toy box farmyard that Old MacDonald himself would feel at home in. And not just one put on for show either. The ambient cast of The Archers were all there: sheep, pigs, cows and roving hens. With many a traditional farmyard being neglected or converted nowadays, it was a treat to see.

In recent months I’ve had a bouncy new companion on my walks. She has the softest little ears, the wettest nose and is utterly adorable. Say hello to my ‘fur niece’ Yala – the rescue puppy belonging to my brother’s partner.

I can’t be alone in eyeing up beautiful old homes in the country and wistfully thinking to myself “If only...” Vernacular architecture fascinates me and browsing Rightmove can be pure torture. There was half-timbered eye candy aplenty where I went walking last month for a feature in our next issue. Can you guess where?

130 COUNTRY WALKING JUNE 2021

Note to self: You know the upkeep on a thatched roof is astronomical, right?

PROGRESS TRACKER Walk

0 0 10 miles

Walk 500 miles starting this summer and we guarantee a holiday season to remember for all the right reasons! Tailor your duration to suit your situation and ambition and remember, however you do it you’ll ﬁnd it fun, motivating and absolutely turbo-charging to your health and happiness!

MON

TO 500

TUE

MILES!

PACK UP YOU R TROUBL ES! Walk

1000 miles

Download and print the rucksack and race charts from www.walk1000miles. co.uk/500milesummer

1000

Name

500 MILES!

Start date WEEK

U RACE YO

WED

THU

FRI

End date SAT

SUN

/ WEEKLY TOTAL

WHAT ARE YOU UP TO? 495 490 485 480 475 470 465 460 455

4 WEEK TOTAL

477 Length of Camino de Santiago

2 3

430

Distance between Moscow and Chernobyl

445 440 435 430 425 420 415 410 405

410

Length of the A1 6 7

405 RUNNING TOTAL

World’s longest cave (Mammoth, Kentucky)

377

Distance above Earth of Hubble Space Telescope

10 11

395 390 385 380 375 370 365 360 355 345 340 335 330 325 320 315 310 305

RUNNING TOTAL

326 5000 football pitches

300

Bree to Rivendell

14 15

295 290 285 280 275

277 RUNNING TOTAL

Length of the Grand Canyon

253.5

245 240 235 230 225 220 215 210 205

Total length of the London Underground

18 RUNNING TOTAL

220 Length of the River Severn, UK’s longest

192

195 190 185 180 175 170 165 160 155

The Coast to Coast path

177 22 23

Offa’s Dyke National Trail RUNNING TOTAL

160 One 25th the length of the Amazon

145 140 135 130 125 120 115 110 105

117

A lap of the M25

Length of the West Highland Way (and the Berlin Wall)

RUNNING TOTAL

95 90 85 80 75 70 65 60 55

73 Furthest you can see from the summit of Snowdon

29 30

54 31

RUNNING TOTAL

The longest cave system in the UK

45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5

2.9

MY 350 MILE REWARD

MY 300 MILE REWARD

Distance you can see at sea level

MY 250 MILE REWARD

MY 200 MILE REWARD

MY 150 MILE REWARD

MY 100 MILE REWARD

MY 50 MILE REWARD

<0 )

MILES!

MY 400 MILE REWARD

)

GRAND TOTAL

MY 450 MILE REWARD

270 265 260 255

274 The length of Scotland

MY 500 MILE REWARD

Walk

00 10 miles