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June 2021

IT’S ALL HAPPENING

HARRODS UP FRONT AND PERSONAL

SILVANO GIRALDIN

ANGEL OF THE NORTH

MICHAEL WIGNALL

STAND OUT FROM THE REST

KOPPERTCRESS.CO.UK

Brand Hospitality Chef Publishing Ltd Dormer Road Thame Oxon OX9 3FS Tel: 01844 399900 www.chefpublishing.com

For any of you who were perplexed by our campaign to ask the PM to appoint a Minister for Hospitality, take a look around you now.

PUBLISHER Martyn Keen martyn@chefpublishing.com

Simply put. In true Hospitality speak. We are in the Shit.

EDITOR Claire Bosi claire@chefpublishing.com Tel: 07753 687913 WRITERS Camille Allcroft Caitlin Allwood Claire Bosi Andrew Richardson Denis Sheehan Jean Smullen PHOTOGRAPHY Michelle Martin DISTRIBUTION David Vernau david@chefpublishing.com FINANCE finance@chefpublishing.com DESIGNERS elena@chefpublishing.com COPYRIGHT Chef & Restuarant Magazine is pubished by Chef Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No part may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the publisher. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the publisher. While every care is taken, details are subject to change and the publisher can take no responsibility for omissions and errors.

COVER IMAGE Tim Green

The situation we are faced with in 2021 is not purely a result of the pandemic. Granted, that has been devastating for all. But add in the exodus of many of our skilled EU workforce because of Brexit, then sprinkle over some of our employees losing heart with the sector, stir in the opportunity to work in other sectors while furloughed, and realising it’s more preferential, then blow torch it with previous demands and conditions of the industry for many of our employees that are simply no longer tolerated. Now garnish that with the fact that, for years, we have allowed our profession to be relentlessly considered ‘low-skilled’

It is going to be a long road, putting it right. That responsibility falls onto each and every one of us. No more head in the sand. No more hoping it all turns out okay. Blinkers off. We need to put this right.

Working in hospitality, I believe that we place more emphasis on ‘getting through service’ or ‘making it through a busy weekend’ or ‘I am one down in the Kitchen or Front’. We are reactionary, we just want to get through that particular time - it’s in our nature. Never really looking further than the next few days. A wise woman once said to me “It’s a case of turn up, eat up, drink up and f**k off” and then the same the next day, and the day after that.

As an industry, we don’t appear to think of the future. We don’t plan, look around, see where we (as an industry, not as a sole operator) are heading and act accordingly. Reactive, not Proactive. We are too concentrated on now - and, at times it feels, not bothered about the future of the sector - what condition we leave the industry in for the next generations.

Up until last year, we have never held Government, and those in Governance, to account. We have never demanded, nor challenged. We have relied on trade bodies, and they do excellent work - but we also have voices and opinions, and as operators and business owners, we must be looking at not just a 1 week plan, but a 1 year, a 3 year a 7 year and so on.

There are some operators out there that have a full brigade, front of house team and restaurant, but only a handful. These lucky few may feel they are doing okay. But just because you have a full compliment of crew, doesn’t mean that the industry is safe. Look at your peers, how many do you know who are short staffed?

Recovery for the hospitality industry is not only opening doors and hearing the tills ring once more. It’s not only about organising finances to be able to pay back loans, or accrued debts. It’s certainly not about scraping together enough people to ‘get through service’.

We are still simmering away with our pressure for a Minister for Hospitality, I remain hopeful. It’s important, not just for the next year, but for the entire future of the sector. But representation within Government is just one of our routes towards a great future. The rest needs to come from within, from us.

For our industry to thrive, our recovery now includes a full rebrand.

Claire Bosi

Création : Agence

— Crédits photos : Laurent Fau, Cherrystone

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MICHELIN GUIDE 2021 LONDON  

Gary Foulkes Angler Restaurant www.anglerrestaurant.com

Clare Smyth Core by Clare www.corebyclaresmyth.com

Adam Byatt Trinity www.trinityrestaurant.co.uk

Greg Wellman The Glasshouse www.glasshouserestaurant.co.uk

Helene Darroze/Marco Zampese Helene Darroze at the Connaught. www.the-connaught.co.uk

Adolfo de Cecco Casa Fofo www.casafofolondon.co.uk

Gymkhana, www.gymkhanalondon.com

Jean-Philippe Blondet/Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester www.alainducasse-dorchester.com

Alex Chow Kai Mayfair www.kaimayfair.co.uk

Johannes Nuding/Pierre Gagnaire Sketch (the Lecture room and Library) www.sketch.london

Andy Beynon Behind www.behindrestaurant.co.uk

Matt Abé Restaurant Gordon Ramsay www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com

Angel Zapata Martin Barrafina www.barrafina.co.uk



Angela Harnett Murano www.muranolondon.com

Andrew Wong. A.Wong www.awong.co.uk Anne Sophie Pic La Dame de Pic www.ladamedepiclondon.co.uk Ashley Palmer Watts Dinner by Heston Blumenthal www.dinnerbyheston.com Claude Bosi Claude Bosi at Bibendum www.bibendum.co.uk James Knappett Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs www.kitchentablelondon.co.uk Michel Roux Jr. Le Gavroche www.le-gavroche.co.uk Rafael Cagali/Paulo Airaudo Da Terra www.daterra.co.uk Tom Sellers Restaurant Story www.restaurantstory.co.uk

Asimakis Chaniotis Pied a Terre www.pied-a-terre.co.uk Atsushi Yoshida, Umu www.umurestaurant.com Bruce Poole/Matt Christmas Chez Bruce www.chezbruce.co.uk Edoardo Pellicano Maos www.bluemountain.school/maos Endo Kazutos Endo at the Rotinda www.endoatrotunda.com Fergus Henderson St John Restaurant www.stjohnrestaurant.com Florian Favario Célèste at The Lanesborough www.lanesborough.com

Isaac McHale The Clove Club www.thecloveclub.com James Lowe Lyle’s www.lyleslondon.com Jason Atherton Pollen Street Social www.pollenstreetsocial.com

Mark Kempson Kitchen W8 www.kitchenw8.com Nieves Barragan Sabor www.saborrestaurants.co.uk Ollie Dabbous Hide www.hide.co.uk Pascal Aussignac Club Gascon www.clubgascon.com

Jeff Galvin Galvin La Chapelle www.galvinrestaurants.com

Paul Walsh City Social www.citysociallondon.com

Jeremy Chan Ikoyi www.ikoyilondon.com

Petrus www.gordonramsayrestaurants. com/petrus

John Williams Rit z Restaurant at The Ritz www.theritzlondon.com Jun Tanaka Ninth www.theninthlondon.com Karam Sethi Trishna www.trishnalondon.com Karunesh Khanna Amaya www.amaya.biz

Rob Weston La Trompette www.latrompette.co.uk Ruth Rogers River Cafe www.rivercafe.co.uk Sally Abe Harwood Arms www.harwoodarms.com

Kenneth Culhane Dysart Petersham www.thedysartpetersham.co.uk

Sam Kamienko Leroy www.leroyshoreditch.com

Marcus Wareing/Mark Froydenlund Marcus www.marcusrestaurant.com

Sameer Taneja Benares www.benaresrestaurant.com

MICHELIN GUIDE 2021 UNITED KINGDOM  Mark Birchall Moor Hall Lancashire www.moorhall.com

Alain Roux & Fabrice Uhryn Waterside Inn Berkshire www.waterside-inn.co.uk

Patrick Gulibaud & Guillaume Lebrun Restaurant Patrick Guilbau Dublin www.restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie

Niall Keating The Dining Room at Whatley Manor www.whatleymanor.com

SCOTLAND

Heston Blumenthal Fat Duck Berkshire www.thefatduck.co.uk

Sat Bains Restaurant Sat Bains Nottinghamshire www.restaurantsatbains.com

 ENGLAND

Simon Rogan L’enclume Lancashire www.lenclume.co.uk

Daniel Clifford Midsummer House Restaurant Cambridgeshire www.midsummerhouse.co.uk

Tom Kerridge The Hand & Flowers Buckinghamshire www.thehandandflowers.co.uk

ENGLAND

Andrew Fairlie Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles Perthshire www.andrewfairlie.co.uk

 ENGLAND Aaron Patterson Hambleton Hall Leicestershire www.hambletonhall.com Adam Bennett Cross at Kenilworth Surrey www.thecrosskenilworth.co.uk

Aktar Islam Opheem www.opheem.com Alex Bond Alchemilla www.alchemillarestaurant.uk

Sriram Aylur Quilon www.quilon.co.uk Taylor Bonnyman Five Fields www.fivefieldsrestaurant.com Theo Clench Portland www.portlandrestaurant.co.uk Toby Burrowes Elystan Street www.elystanstreet.com Tomos Parry Brat www.bratrestaurant.com Tom Brown, Cornerstone www.cornerstonehackney.com Tom Aikens, Muse www.musebytomaikens.co.uk Tong Chee Hwee Hakkasan Mayfair www.hakkasan.com Tong Chee Hwee Hakkasan Hanway Place www.hakkasan.com/hanway-place Uday Salunkhe Veeraswamy www.veeraswamy.com Victor Garvey SoLa www.solasoho.com William Drabble Seven Park Place by William Drabble www.stjameshotelandclub.com/ restaurant-piccadilly

Callum Graham Bohemia Bar at The Club Hotel Jersey www.bohemiajersey.com Chris Cleghorn Olive Tree Bath www.olivetreebath.co.uk

Alex Nietosvuori Hjem www.restauranthjem.co.uk

Chris Simpson Pensons www.pensons.co.uk

Allister Barsby Hide and Fox www.hideandfox.co.uk

Clock House Restaurant Surrey www.theclockhouserestaurant.com

Andrew Pern Star Inn Yorkshire www.thestaratharome.co.uk

Colin McGurran Winteringham Fields North Lincolnshire www.winteringhamfields.co.uk

Ben Crittenden Stark www.starkfood.co.uk

Daniel Smith The Fordwich Arms Kent www.fordwicharms.co.uk

Gary Jones Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons Oxfordshire www.belmond.com/lemanoir

Jordan Bailey Aimsir www.aimsir.ie

Adam Smith Dorchester Collection’s Coworth Park Berkshire www.dorchestercollection.com

Ben Wilkinson Cottage in the Wood www.thecottageinthewood.co.uk

James Close Raby Hunt Co. Durham www.rabyhuntrestaurant.co.uk

Mickael Viljanen Greenhouse Dublin www.thegreenhouserestaurant.ie

Adam Stokes Adam’s Restaurant West Midlands www.adamsrestaurant.co.uk

Brad Carter Carters of Moseley Birmingham www.cartersofmoseley.co.uk

IRELAND

Shay Cooper Goring Dining Room www.thegoring.com

David Everitt Mathias Le Champion Sauvage Cheltenham www.lechampignonsauvage.com Dmitri Magi/Daniel Humm Davies and Brook www.claridges.co.uk

Dom Robinson The Blackbird Berkshire www.theblackbird.co.uk

Marc Wilkinson Fraiche Cheshire www.restaurantfraiche.com

Galton Blackiston Morston Hall Norfolk www.morstonhall.com

Mark Dodson Masons Arms Devon www.masonsarmsdevon.co.uk

George Blogg Gravetye Manor Sussex www.gravetyemanor.co.uk George Livesey Bulrush Bristol www.bulrushrestaurant.co.uk Glynn Purnell Purnell’s West Midlands www.purnellsrestaurant.com Hywel Jones Hywel Jones by Lucknam Park Wiltshire www.lucknampark.co.uk Hrishikesh Desai Hrishi at Gilpin Hotel & Lake House Cumbria www.gilpinlodge.co.uk James MacKenzie Pipe & Glass Inn East Yorkshire www.pipeandglass.co.uk Jean Delport Interlude www.restaurant-interlude.co.uk John Campbell Woodspeen Berkshire www.thewoodspeen.com John Duffin John’s House Leicestershire www.johnshouse.co.uk Justin Sharp Pea Porridge www.peaporridge.co.uk Kenny Atkinson House of Tides Newcastle www.houseoftides.co.uk

Nathan Outlaw Outlaws fish kitchen www.outlaws.co.uk Nathan Outlaw Outlaws New Road www.outlaws.co.uk Steve Smith Latymer Berkshire www.exclusive.co.ukpennyhillparkrestaurants-barsthe-latymer Michael Caines Lympstone Manor Devon www.lympstonemanor.co.uk Michael O’Hare The Man Behind The Curtain Yorkshire www.themanbehindthecurtain.co.uk

IRELAND

Ryan Blackburn Old Stamp House www.oldstamphouse.com Shaun Rankin Grantley Hall www.grantleyhall.co.uk Simon Bonwick Crown at Burchetts Green Berkshire www.thecrownburchettsgreen.com Simon Hulstone Elephant Devon www.elephantrestaurant.co.uk Simon Martin Mana www.manarestaurant.co.uk

Ahmet Dede Dede www.customhousebaltimore/dede Aidan McGrath Wild Honey Inn Co. Clare www.wildhoneyinn.com Alex Greene Eipic Belfast www.deaneseipic.com Cormac Rowe Lady Helen Restaurant Co. Kilkenny www.mountjuliet.ie/the-lady-helen. html Derry Clarke L’Ecrivain Dublin www.lecrivain.com Enda McEvoy Loam Galway loamgalway.com

SCOTLAND Billy Boyter Cellar Fife www.thecellaranstruther.co.uk Conor Toomey Condita www.condita.co.uk Geoffrey Smeddle Peat Inn Fife www.thepeatinn.co.uk Graeme Cheevers Isle of Eriska www.eriska-hotel.co.uk Lorna McNee Cail Bruich www.cailbruich.co.uk Mark Donald Number One at Balmoral Hotel Edinburgh www.roccofortehotels.com

Mike North Nut Tree Oxfordshire www.nuttreeinn.co.uk

Stephen Harris Sportsman Kent www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk

Gareth McCaughey The Muddlers Club www.themuddlersclubbelfast.com

Martin Wishart Restaurant Martin Wishart Edinburgh www.martin-wishart.co.uk

Merlin Labron-Johnson Osip www.osiprestaurant.com

Steve Drake Sorrel Surrey www.sorrelrestaurant.co.uk

JP McMahon Aniar Galway www.aniarrestaurant.ie/pages/ menus.html

Michael Smith Lochbay Isle of Skye www.lochbay-restaurant.co.uk

Nick and Michael Parkinson Royal Oak Berkshire www.theroyaloakpaleystreet.com

Thomas Carr 1873 www.thomascarrdining.com

Keelan Higgs Variety Jones www.varietyjones.ie

Paul Ainsworth Paul Ainsworth at Number Six Cornwall www.number6inpadstow.co.uk

Tom Kitchin Kitchin Edinburgh www.thekitchin.com

Tommy Banks Roots www.rootsyork.com

Paul Foster Salt Warwickshire www.salt-restaurant.co.uk

Kevin Tickle Forest Side Hotel Lancashire www.theforestside.com

Peter Sanchez-Iglesias Paco Tapas Bristol pacotapas.co.uk

Luke Tipping Simpsons West Midlands www.simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk

Robert Potter Bybrook www.exclusive.co.uk/the-manorhouse/restaurants-bars/bybrook/

Damien Grey Liath www.liathrestaurant.com

Michael Wignall The Angel at Hetton www.angelhetton.co.uk

Peter Gray Hind’s Head Berkshire www.hindsheadbray.com

Lisa Goodwin-Allen Northcote Lancashire www.northcote.com

Tristan Mason Restaurant Tristan West Sussex www.restauranttristan.co.uk

Simon Radley Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor Cheshire www.chestergrosvenor.com

Kevin Mangeolles Neptune Norfolk www.theneptune.co.uk

Laurie Gear Artichoke Restaurant www.artichokerestaurant.co.uk

Robert Palmer Peel’s at Hampton Manor Birmingham www.hamptonmanor.eu

Peter Sanchez-Iglesias Casamia Bristol www.casamiarestaurant.co.uk Richard Craven The Royal Oak www.theroyaloakwhatcote.co.uk Richard Swale Alium at Askham Hall www.askhamhall.co.uk

Tom Barnes Rogan and Co Cumbria www.roganandco.co.uk Tom Clarke L’Ortolan Berkshire www.lortolan.com Tom De Keyser The Coach Bucks www.thecoachmarlow.co.uk Tom Parker White Swan Lancashire www.whiteswanatfence.co.uk Tommy Banks Black Swan Yorkshire www.blackswanoldstead.co.uk Tony Parkin The Tudor Room at Great Fosters Surrey www.greatfosters.co.uk

Garrett Byrne Campagne Kilkenny www.campagne.ie

Michael Tweedie The Oak Room Adare Manor www.adaremanor.com Paul McDonald Bastion www.bastionkinsale.com Rob Krawczyk Chestnut County Cork www.restaurantchestnutwestcor.ie Ross Lewis Chapter One Dublin www.chapteronerestaurant.com Stephen Toman Ox Belfast www.oxbelfast.com Takashi Miyazaki Ichigo Ichie County Cork www.ichiegoichie.ie

Martin Wishart Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond Dunbartonshire www.mwlochlomond.co.uk

WALES Chris Harrod Whitebrook Monmouthshire www.thewhitebrook.co.uk Gareth Ward Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms Powys www.ynyshir.co.uk Hywel Griffith Beach House www.beachhouseoxwich.co.uk Shaun Hill Walnut Tree Monmouthshire www.thewalnuttreeinn.com Stephen Stevens Sosban & The Old Butchers Anglesby www.sosbanandtheoldbutchers.com

Ian Doyle House www.cliffhousehotel.ie

SUSTAINABLE GASTRONOMY ENGLAND LONDON Oxo Tower Brasserie Southwark Petersham Nurseries Café Richmond Silo Hackney Tredwells Strand and Covent Garden

Angela’s Margate Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons Oxfordshire

Hypha Chester

The Ethicurean Bristol

L’Enclume Cumbria

The Small Holding Kent

New Yard Helston

Where the Light Gets In Stockport

Black Swan Oldstead

Restaurant Sat Bains Nottingham

Coombeshead Farm Launceston

River Cottage Kitchen Axminster

Daylesford Organic Farm Moreton-in-Marsh

The Dining Room Whatley Manor, Malmesbury

SCOTLAND Inver Strachur

WALES Henry Robertson Llandderfel REPUBLIC OF IRELAND Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites Aran Islands Loam Galway Kai Galway

● EkiGoran@Shum1

JAMES ST CLAIRE - JONES Marco Goes Stateside

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40 CUSTOM CULINARY GOLD LABEL

MICHAEL WIGNALL

FONDS & PASTES

EXECUTIVE HEAD CHEF AT HOARCROSS HALL HOTEL & SPA

52 ALEX CLARIDGE

WELLOCKS PRODUCE NEWS

22

54 KASAI - FIRE

58 WHAT IS IDENTITY?

26 64 68

IT’S ALL HAPPENING AT HARRODS

TONY PARKIN TUDOR ROOM, GREAT FOSTERS BRAD CARTER CARTERS OF MOSELEY

NESTLÉ PROFESSIONAL HAS REVEALED ITS TOP TIPS

THE MEAT SECTION HAM IS WHERE HEART IS

THE SEARCH FOR TALENT

THE FISH SECTION HOOKED ON THE NATIONS FAVOURITE DISH

100

72

74 108

88 90 94

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BUSINESS SPOTLIGHT EGGRUN HATCHES IN MONUMENT WITH MORE TO COME

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GASTRONOMIXS A MODERN ESCOFFIER IN YOUR POCKET

GRAB YOUR GRAINS WITH RISO GALLO RISO GALLO LAUNCH THEIR CHEFS COLLECTIVE TIME TO WELCOME BACK THE REAL RESTAURANT ROCK STARS

A CONVERSATION THAT COULD GO ON FOR HOURS

SEAFOOD FROM NORWAY CELEBRATE WITH FISH AND CHIP LOVERS AROUND THE UK

THE PASTRY SECTION VICKY ENDERSEN

114 124 126

WELLOCKS MERRY BERRY THE ESTATE DAIRY PASTRY BUTTER

THE SOMMELIER DIARIES AN AUSTRALIAN IN ALENTEJO

RECIPES 134

Words Andrew Richardson Camera Tim Green

michael

wignall H E ’ S B R I G H T. T H AT ’ S THE FIRST THING T H AT S TA N D S O U T. A N H DEH’ SE ’BSR I G H T. T H AT ’ S T H O U G H T FTUHLE, TFO I ROS .T T H I N G T H AT MICHAEL W IGND A LS LO U T. A N D H E ’ S S TA D O E S N ’ TT HR O U SUHG H T F U L , T O O .

H E A D L O N G MI N I CTHOA H E LI SW I G N A L L ANSWERS. D HO E ETA K ’ETS R U S H H E A D L O N G SN H I S T I M E , IW I G H ISS A N S W E R S .

N TE O THINGS UH P, EF TA IND SS HIS TIME, KE T H E R I G H TWW E IOGRHDSS T H I N G S U P, AND DEMON F ISNTDRSATTEHSE R I G H T W O R D S INTELLIGEN AC N ED ADNE D M O N S T R AT E S P O I SI N E .T E L L I G E N C E A N D P O I S E .

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Wignall is no ordinary chef. There’s no gushing, no gleeful acceptance of pats on the back. He’s been there, done that, got the t-shirt. He’s one of the few British chefs to secure two Michelin stars at two separate venues. The only surprise will come if he doesn’t achieve the distinction for a third time at his beautiful recently-opened The Angel, at Hetton, in Yorkshire.

It’s not Wignall’s intelligence that’s compelling.

It’s also the lack of ego. While so, so many believe in their own hype and imagine that life really is the self-congratulatory stream of conscious that gets posted on social media, 12

MICHAEL WIGNALL

Wignall keeps his feet on the floor. His private life is precisely that. His food is demonstrated should people be interested. He has no interest in being an influencer or hanging out in the starry corners of Insta, Twitter or Tik-Tok. There’s neither arrogance nor artifice. Wignall simply doesn’t do ‘getting carried away’. His life and career have been about keeping things real, planting feet firmly on the floor, not being swept away by the hot air.

Those who’ve worked with him speak reverentially. He was the guy in the corner, or,

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more likely, at the pass, with his head down, focused, working hard, never any dramas. The food was consistently brilliant. The demeanour always professional and diligent, industrious and unflagging.

have the hunger to push and the ability to learn, he’s in the best place he’s been. The master of his own destiny at The Angel at Hetton, he traded for just nine weeks without restrictions during 2010.

He’s straight-talking, too, but ever polite. Few chefs are so focused as Michael Wignall on the main objective of their craft – to cook nice food. One of the great British chefs of recent decades, he has reached the sweet spot in his career. Old enough to have ample experience and no little wisdom, but young enough to

“It’s a massive thing for us. We’re so excited about re-opening. We’ve done so much work to improve things. A lot of people haven’t seen all the changes. Covid has been stop and start throughout. We did the bar area, we were open for six weeks, then we were closed. I think we traded for 9 or 10 weeks last year with

MICHAEL WIGNALL

no restrictions. But we did the middle part of the restaurant in the second lockdown. In the third lockdown we moved into the temporary kitchen and started rebuilding the new one. We have six new rooms above the restaurant. A lot of work has gone into this.”

Wignall’s love of food began when he was a kid. His childhood was filled with fresh produce, home baking and plenty of international travel.

His mother seldom left the kitchen while holidays took in such destinations as the Far East, the USA and most of Western Europe. He

remembers trips to Turkey in the late 1970s, where he’d drink coffee as strong as syrup. Such formative experiences gave him a profound love of ingredient-led cooking. Little wonder that in 2021, gastronomy remains a simple pleasure for Wignall. You get nice ingredients, you treat them with passion and respect, you cook your heart out and you give the guest a memorable experience.

A prodigious junior cyclist, Wignall considered a career in sport before applying his voluminous talents to cooking. He started out front-of-

house in Spain before starting a professional cooking career under Paul Heathcote at Broughton Park. From there, he moved to Heathcote’s eponymous restaurant in Preston before moving to work for John Burton Race at L’Ortolan. After that, he eared his first star at Old Beams, in Staffordshire, before retaining a star at Waldo’s, in Berkshire. He returned north, working at Michael’s Nook, in the Lake District, for four years, again retaining a star.

Then it was off to The Devonshire Arms, in the Yorkshire Dales, where he secured a star and four rosettes.

At the Latymer, in Pennyhill Park, he turned a two-rosette establishment into a two Michelinstar restaurant, securing five rosettes. At Gidleigh Park, he retained two Michelin stars before deciding to go it alone and return to Yorkshire.

His move was the result of a long-standing friendship with businessman and entrepreneur James Wellock, who grew the Wellock’s empire before selling up.

“James and I met when I was at the Devonshire Arms. He was one of the suppliers there and 15

I had suppliers from further afield and from France who would collect from Runges Market.”

Bonded by their focus on exceptionalism, Wignall and Wellock got into conversation. “I had a discussion with James and told him he ought to send an artic to Runges once or twice a week. The friendship moved on from me wanting things that you could only get from there.”

The two men grew closer. They joked about opening a place of their own, imagining that 16

MICHAEL WIGNALL

they might open somewhere in Europe so that they could indulge their passions for snowboarding and skiing.

“James and I have known each other for a long time. He’s supplied me and followed me around the country. As I moved on, his business grew. He had the same ethos. It’s about how something is grown and the passion the farmers put into it. It’s the same passion that goes into creating a dish. It’s from field to plate, whether that’s producers from this country of the growers who make olive oil in Spain.”

Wignall had considered opening his own place over a period of many years. Prior to Gidleigh, prior to Pennyhill Park, even, it had been at the back of his mind. “I was always worried that if I did have my own kitchen I wouldn’t spend enough time cooking, that I’d be consumed by the business. Perhaps that meant I took a little longer to open my own place. I love to cook, that fire has never gone out. I’m not an office chef, I’m not a TV chef, I know social media is important but I’m not about that either: I just love to cook. The places I worked in were incredible but I was treating them like

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MICHAEL WIGNALL

Wignall is a popular figure, both in the industry and among owners. He has nothing but kind words for his former employers. His record was clean at each and every place he worked, as he pushed hard to drive up standards.

His experience has been critical in navigating a new direction for the nation’s original gastropub. For a while, there were burgers and buns as he catered to what he thought customers might want. But over time he moved away from trying to please all the people all the time and brought his unique skills to the fore.

“Ever owner has been really good but it’s never been from the ground up. At the angel we had that opportunity. It’s been here for a long, long time. it was well established back in the day.

When we took it on, we had the opportunity for The Angel to go in a different direction.”

“I’m not a spring chicken but I’m in the kitchen every day and as eager to do things as ever I was. Even more so, I’d say. It’s more a part of me and more my personality. We want to push forward. 2021 will be a really big year for us.”

they were mine and at the end of it I wanted something that actually was.”

Team is everything and Wignall speaks generously of those around him. “We have a really good team. I couldn’t do it without my wife, Johanna, she’s behind the scenes doing all the nitty gritty and taking care of the management side. Everything. She’s the backbone of the business.”

He spent lockdown refurbishing The Angel, trialling dishes and redesigning the menu.

Staff have been reinvigorated and they’ve used the enforced break to their advantage. “We’re never going to have this amount of time to think ever again. We’ve taken a step back and looked at what we’re doing and where we want 19

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to go. It was a risk at first to change it quite so dramatically. But it worked in our favour. Our food is not ridiculously priced, it’s fairly priced, and it comes with great service. The staff are the most important thing. We believe in our staff. We believe in pushing forward.”

The Angel at Hetton is a work in progress.

Wignall and his fellow owners have acquired other properties in the idyllic hamlet and may add more as they turn the venue into more than the sum of its parts. It is rapidly becoming a restaurant worth a detour – to steal from the two Michelin definition – though Wignall might like it to be one that’s worth a special journey, that offers

exceptional cuisine and provides distinctive dishes that are precisely executed and use superlative ingredients.

“We looked at the area and we’ve got Malham Cove, just up the road. Then The Angel itself is made from Yorkshire Stone. We’ve bought copper drain pipes, the tables and chairs have been made by a company in Copenhagen, whose work I’ve loved for years. It comes with a price, but we’re trying to create something very special, a true destination.

“Yorkshire is beautiful. I worked for a long time down South and I’ve dined all over the world.

But this is special. It’s all about the overall

experience, not just the food. It’s the location, the ambience, the staff… everything.”

He doesn’t talk about the number of stars he’d like to win, of course. Wignall is too long in the tooth for that game. Besides, it’s not the way he rolls. He’s a less-is-more kind of man, an actions-speak-louder-than-words kind of guy.

“For us, it’s about pushing forward. We have something really special and have that amazing experience. We never settle.”

Wignall is one of British gastronomy’s great unsung heroes. The Angel has given him his greatest platform to date. In the years to come, he will take flight.

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P R O D U C E NEWS W H E N B O R I S J O H N S O N D E C L A R E D T H AT O U T D O O R H O S P I TA L I T Y C O U L D B E G I N O N T H E 1 2 T H A P R I L , I T R E A L LY F E LT L I K E M O T H E R N AT U R E T H E N P I P E D U P, L A U G H E D A N D S A I D “ Y O U T H I N K I T ' S G O I N G T O B E T H AT S I M P L E ? ” .

I M A G E S O F D R I N K E R S H U S T L E D U N D E R N E AT H U M B R E L L A S , G A Z E B O S B L O W I N G O V E R , F R E E Z I N G C O L D D I N E R S T R Y I N G T O M A K E T H E B E S T O F I T. A LT H O U G H W E C O U L D G O O U T, AT T I M E S I T F E LT L I K E A N S A S E N D U R A N C E T E S T.

April and May, cold, wet, windy. There have been more frosts in April than in any other April since records began. The average night time temperature lower than January, and the lowest since 1922. So different to the Spring of 2020 when we were all shocked and dazed into the first lockdown, then able to at least get some Vitamin D’s from the glorious temperatures and long, sunny days.

The poor conditions of Spring 2021 have also had an effect on British grown produce. Much is running about three weeks behind. Among these general shortages are Tender stem Broccoli, British Carrots and Parsnips.

The cooler Spring has delayed some growing progress, and though there has been plenty of water (yep!) and some sunshine in the form of rays – many plants are growing slower that we would expect at this time of year. Fortunately, there is plenty of fully ripe and available 22

Spanish produce coming into the Wellocks distribution warehouse that will bridge the gap as our kitchens fire back into action, and our diners arrive, eager to actually sit in both shelter and warmth.

The team at Wellocks are fortunate to have their own Spanish office. This means the attention that is paid to the produce arriving into their warehouses is given the same inspection as in the UK, ensuring the quality is exactly on spec. There are no middlemen.

As with their UK suppliers, produce goes from field to Wellocks. They have consistency with delivery and confidence in their growers, not only in terms of availability and quality but also with environmental and sustainable matters.

Working closely with their Spanish counterparts, Wellocks have confidence that they can satisfy the needs of their customers for the coming weeks, as our own homegrown produce catches up.

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Now they have Lettuce in, and the summers coming

TIME TO GET CREATIVE WITH

SALAD Lettuce is actually part of the Daisy family. It was originally farmed by the ancient Egyptians, who transformed it into an important food harvest.

Lettuce spread to the Greeks and Romans; who gave it the name lactuca, from which the English lettuce is derived. From the 16th through to the 18th centuries many varieties of Lettuce were developed in Europe. Available varieties for June include;

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WELLOCKS

LOLLO ROSSO

BLONDE LOLLO

Small to medium in size, averaging 15-20 cm in diameter.

Tight compact, rosette shape. Fan-shaped leaves are light green in the middle, deep red around the edges. Lollo Rosso lettuce is a firm favourite in Italian cookery. Tender, Crisp, Sweet, Bitter, Nutty.

The blonde sister to the redhead above. This is actually a fresh pale green and compliments the classic and colourful Lollo Rossa. Adorned with the same frilly leaves. Crinkly, Crisp, Delicate.

OAKLEAF

GEM

A firm and crisp lettuce and has a slight bitter smell when the stalk is scratched. The leaves have a mild, sweet, and nutty flavour. As the lettuce ages, some bitterness can become present in mature leaves.

Gem lettuce is a tiny variety of romaine lettuce. Gem became extremely popular in the late 20st century. The appearance is similar to its larger sibling, Romaine, but has a more slender, crispy stalk. Slightly sweet, Nutty.

COS

ICEBERG

Otherwise known as Romaine. The classic salad for a Caesar Salad and a lettuce that is heat tolerant, so it can be grilled, or braised. Bitter, Herby.

Not just for Prawn Cocktails. The iceberg lettuce is most probably the most commonly used lettuce both in the UK and USA. It is mild in flavour due to the high water content, but can add freshness to dishes, and can also tolerate heat.

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I T ’ S A L L H A P P E N I N G AT

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I N 1 8 2 4 , AT T H E A G E O F 2 5 , C H A R L E S H E N R Y H A R R O D F O U N D E D A D R A P E R S M E R C H A N T A N D H A B E R D A S H E R S S T O R E AT 2 2 8 B O R O U G H H I G H S T R E E T I N S O U T H W A R K . L I T T L E D I D H E K N O W T H E N , T H AT D E C A D E S L AT E R , V I A D I F F E R I N G L O C AT I O N S A N D S E V E R A L D E A L S , T H AT H I S N A M E – H A R R O D S – WOULD BECOME ONE OF THE MOST ICONIC NAMES THROUGHOUT THE WORLD.

Harrods is one of the most famous department stores in Europe. It covers over 1.1 million square feet and held several Royal Warrants from 1910 to 2000. Ever evolving, recent changes at Harrods are something to behold.

Sitting proudly in Knightsbridge, the unmistakeable building is far more than a department store. It is home to several dining areas, an incredible food hall and there has been something of a revolution going on with the in-store food experiences.

David Collins studio embarked on a project to bring new life into the Dining Hall, the Fresh Food Market Hall and the Chocolate Hall.

Precious and original features have been preserved and elevated, with showcases such as an original staircase that sweeps into the Chocolate Hall being proudly celebrated. This staircase was the entrance to the private dwellings when people used to live within Harrods – just imagine sweeping downstairs from your apartment into all the store offers – a piece of history to be remembered! The

walk throughs from hall to hall is considered, it feels more open, each room blending into the other, each room having its own personality, yet Collins has somehow linked them all together. Somehow, the new interiors feel like a blend of two ages of roaring twenties. The elegance from the 1920’s coupled with the innovation from the 2020’s.

There have always been a variety of dining and drinking options within Harrods. From their Baccarat Bar to the Caviar House, Afternoon Teas to Late night dining, Harrods have led the way in offering something to suit every taste within the store.

As the UK reinstates its relationship with dining out (in), we took a look at 3 super exciting new offerings in store that have been curated and put into position during the pandemic. And there’s even more of a celebration of our greatest British chefs in the pipeline. Tom Kerridge announces his newest venture in the Harrods dining hall - Kerridges Fish and Chips - “A great big celebration in this British institution of the British Fish and Chips" 27

Camera courtesy of Gordon Ramsay Group

GORDON RAMSAY BURGERS Harrods describe this as “A taste of America, without the trans-Atlantic trip”. The first Gordon Ramsay Burger restaurant outside of Las Vegas has touched down in Knightsbridge, and as you’d expect from the multi-Michelin starred chef Gordon Ramsay, these are not your average quarter-pounders.

Located on the 4th Floor, and adjacent to women's fashion. Gordon Ramsay Burgers is deceptively small from the outside, but there are more seats than you would imagine – and I can well imagine weary partners of ladies, in their element clothes shopping, taking refuge at the Burger restaurant. The look is modern, very USA, but with all the highly polished touches you would expect when it comes with the GR brand attached.

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HARRODS

A bespoke blend of chuck, brisket and rib cap, the 100% UK heritage beef patties are cooked to perfection on an open flame and – just before they’re taken off the grill – brushed with Ivy House Farm butter for an extra hit of nutty sweetness.

Toppings comprise the very finest cheeses and ingredients, this is from the Ramsay stable after all. Indulge in the Hell's Kitchen Burger, layered with fresh mozzarella, roasted jalapeños, avocado and roasted tomatoes, or the Forest Burger: a glorious stack of melting Gruyère, sautéed mushrooms, fried Arlington White egg, cep mayonnaise and rocket. Try the lobster and prawn, the vegetarian portobello, the vegan falafel or the Hellfire Chicken wings. Side offerings include truffle and Parmesan fries.

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Camera courtesy of Harrods Social

HARRODS SOCIAL BY JASON ATHERTON. Situated on the lower-ground floor, a step away from the Baccarat Bar, and opposite the awesome Harrods wine cellars, Harrods Social showcases the finest British produce in a relaxed yet elegant setting. In true Atherton style, Harrods Social displays Michelin ease, surely worthy of a star. The menu reads like a list of everything you wish to eat, and the provenance of British grown produce plays a central role. Among Cob Chicken, Hake and South Coast Halibut, you will find a Mac n’Cheese like no other. With a layer of braised feather blade underneath the deeply cheesy pasta, Arthertons team headed up by Dan Welna, take flavour to new levels.

The desserts showcase dishes such as his 82% chocolate tart, olive oil sponge with Amalfi lemon curd, or Tahitian vanilla crème brûlée with a Champagne and strawberry jus.

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HARRODS

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HARRODS

Atherton’s world-renowned restaurant group, The Social Company, has a commitment to supporting local industries and sourcing produce that celebrates the best of British provenance. For a restaurant sitting in, arguably, one of the most exclusive addresses in town, Harrods Social brings with it super friendly, attentive and skilled service. No pomposity, no standing on ceremony. The front of house as informed on the dishes as the back.

Making sure every detail is perfect, Atherton has also personally curated a wine list for Harrods Social, perfectly suited to dishes on the menu. Wines from the Social Company are on the list, and in the unlikelihood that you fancy something different, the Harrods wine cellars are opposite – it is possible to choose something from there and have it served at your table.

Over time, Harrods has attracted Michelin starred chefs to the building, but I don’t believe a restaurant in Harrods has ever held a Michelin star of its own. I wonder if that’s about to change?

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Camera courtesy of Harrods

THE CHOCOLATE HALL Opened in May 7th 2021, the Chocolate Hall is a breath-taking theatre of chocolate. Customers can enjoy live demonstrations from Harrods’ own world-renowned chocolatiers, with fresh chocolate handcrafted in full view at the Harrods Chocolaterie, as well as access to some of the most exclusive confectionery partners and brands from around the world, all within spectacular Grade II* listed surroundings.

Chocolate plays a pivotal role in the history of Harrods. The worldfamous department store opened its first confectionery counter in 1870, before beginning its own in-house chocolate production in the early 19th century. By the 1970s, over 100 tonnes of chocolate were produced on-site in the Knightsbridge store. The opening of the Chocolate Hall marks an important moment in the Harrods journey, as well as a milestone in the broader masterplan redevelopment of 34

HARRODS

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the store - an ambitious £300m investment to refurbish much of the Knightsbridge site. A significant part of the redevelopment has taken place throughout the renowned Harrods Food Halls, a global emporium of premium food and drink. The opening of the Chocolate Hall concludes the extensive Food Halls redevelopment programme.

Harrods’ ambition to be the number one chocolate destination goes beyond design and into new commitments to sustainability and responsible sourcing. Ethical and sustainable sourcing are at the heart of chocolate production at Harrods, and the opening of the Chocolate Hall brings with it Harrods’ commitment to only use responsiblysourced cocoa in all new products and own-brand Harrods chocolate, through working with accredited suppliers who either buy cocoa from farms that participate in certification schemes, or who buy directly from the farms themselves, ensuring that farmers are paid a premium.

Harrods is proud to pay a premium for its cocoa and to support third36

HARRODS

party initiatives that drive social and economic development amongst cocoa farming communities.

The Chocolate Hall has been brought to life by award-winning designers David Collins Studio, the same design team behind the broader Harrods Food Halls transformation project. The restoration pays tribute to Harrods’ longstanding heritage in chocolate by creating an environment that reflects the Halls’ original Edwardian grandeur. Meticulous processes have been used to preserve the architecture, including restoring the extensive tilework by hand, and replacing those tiles which could not be restored with handmade replicas, as well as restoring the impressive granite and marble floor. The finest materials from around the world have been used to create an opulent surrounding, whilst modern technology has been incorporated throughout, such as state of the art climate-controlled counters to store confectionery, ensuring no compromise on product freshness or taste.

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As customers enter the Chocolate Hall, they are treated to a complete sensory experience. A mesmerizing light-well was crafted from a backlit alabaster, accentuating The Harrods Chocolaterie, whilst also playing homage to the former viewing gallery that was part of the original architecture. The Harrods Chocolaterie is undoubtedly the crowning glory of the Chocolate Hall, where the magic of chocolate creation comes to life. Here, customers can witness the spectacle of live chocolate theatre, as Harrods chefs make everything from fresh bonbons and indulgent filled bars to chocolate-dipped confit fruit, all in full view. The only UK department store to make and sell its own chocolate in-house, Harrods remains the ultimate destination for showstopping food experiences and the most exceptional confectionery produce.

The Chocolate Hall is proudly home to the most coveted confectionery and luxury chocolate brands, including To’ak, made with one of the rarest varieties of Ecuadorian Nacional cacao beans and handcrafted using an 38

HARRODS

Michael Ward, Managing Director of Harrods, comments: “We are delighted to welcome guests back to our exceptional restaurants, and are especially excited to re-open our indoor dining with some of the most renowned talents in British cuisine.

“Following the successful launch of Gordon Ramsay Burger, we are also now celebrating the opening of Jason Atherton’s Harrods Social. With other faces to be announced this year, Harrods has truly become an unrivalled destination to sample the very best in UK produce and suppliers, with dishes created by some of the most iconic British chefs, all inside our iconic Knightsbridge store.”

“The opening of our redeveloped chocolate halls is a hugely special moment for us. It is the final stage in our ambitious investment and redesign of our historic Food Halls; a project that has continued with passion and drive despite the challenges of the last year.

It is also a perfect demonstration of what Harrods does best; harnessing the greatest strengths from our heritage while re-imaging luxury for a modern customer.

The launch of the Chocolate Hall not only brings the most evocative chocolate craftsmanship to life in an unparalleled setting, but also marks an important commitment towards responsible sourcing and welfare standards, something that we are proud to uphold as the cornerstone of chocolate production at Harrods.”

extraordinary fermentation process. Eleven concession boutiques can be found in the Chocolate Hall, including heritage favourites such as William Curley and Pierre Marcolini. Meanwhile, Harrods has partnered with Belgian artisan chocolatier Godiva to reimagine the iconic Godiva chocolate-coated strawberry, with the creation of the theatrical Dipping Station.

Moreover, the Chocolate Hall remains the home of Harrods own-label signature confectionery, with enduring favourites including the signature Gold Bar, boasting a recipe that remains unchanged since the first time it was produced 24 years ago, and still handcrafted by an independent family-run business in Belgium. Meanwhile, the iconic Harrods chocolate-covered fruit and nuts offer a selection of over twenty fruit and nut ranges, from roasted almonds to Amarena cherries, with each product made in Germany by expert craftsmen. Harrods is proud to have one of the largest chef brigades in Europe, including Head Pastry Chef, Alistair Birt, a previous winner of the UK Chocolate Master contest.

All Harrods restaurants operate with strict health and safety measures in place, including social distancing and reduced seating capacity. Customers are encouraged to book in advance online, or at the front of house desks at the restaurant.

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Words Camille Allcroft Camera courtesy of Hoarcross Hall

James St Claire – Jones Executive Head Chef at Hoarcross Hall Hotel & Spa

A S H O S P I TA L I T Y B E G I N S T O R E O P E N I T S D O O R S , R E S TA U R A N T TA B L E S A N D R E S E R VAT I O N S AT L U X U R Y H O T E L S H AV E A R G U A B LY N E V E R B E E N M O R E S O U G H T A F T E R , S O I T W A S A P L E A S U R E T O S I T D O W N R E C E N T LY W I T H J A M E S S T C L A I R E - J O N E S , E X E C U T I V E H E A D C H E F AT T H E L U X U R I O U S H O A R C R O S S H A L L H O T E L & S PA I N S TA F F O R D S H I R E T O G A I N A N I N S I G H T I N T O T H I S E X C I T I N G T I M E .

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As hospitality begins to reopen its doors, restaurant tables and reservations at luxury hotels have arguably never been more sought after, so it was a pleasure to sit down recently with James St Claire - Jones, Executive Head Chef at the luxurious Hoarcross Hall Hotel & Spa in Staffordshire to gain an insight into this exciting time.

James has enjoyed a varied and successful career to date encompassing spells working at many prominent locations both in the UK and overseas and we started by chatting about what made him fall in love with the profession in the first place – ‘my journey to becoming a chef commenced when I was only 15 and I started out as a kitchen porter, so that’s about 34 years ago now. This was back in the day when chefs wore the classic big hats and neckerchiefs and 42

JAMES ST CLAIRE – JONES

they simply looked so impressive, that I aspired to be like that too. It gave me something to aim for while I was a kitchen porter and it inspired me to move on to college and study, so that I could start wearing those chef whites myself. I did two years at culinary college in Solihull, learning both the back and front of house aspects of the trade and from there I moved straight out into the industry. I was captivated by the chef profession from the very start – it is all about team work, because you see the rest of your team more than you see your own family half the time.’

Despite the long hours and determination required to succeed as a chef, James never wavered in terms of his love for the job. Once his training was complete, he threw himself straight into his first major role where he was lucky enough to work with a chef who he credits as having taught him a lot and guided

him through that crucial first few years in the industry ‘I started off as a commis chef at a residential training college for Lloyds TSB management.

It was very high end, even back then we had an £18 food cost per delegate per day which was a high budget. It was an amazing place to work and we catered for managers who were on residential courses lasting anything from 1-6 weeks. Food wise it was very much focused on classical cuisine with a French influence, so every day there was a full dessert trolley and in the evening we used to do buffets with dressed salmon and turkey alongside classics such as Vichy style carrots and Dauphinoise potatoes. I worked with a fantastic head chef there called Alan Edgington who really took me under his wing and taught me a lot - I stayed there for five years and he was a superb mentor for my early career.’

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During his life as a chef, James has also been heavily involved in the military over the years which has afforded him some incredible work opportunities as well as an invaluable book of contacts ‘I am still a Staff Sergeant with the 167 Catering Support Regiment RLC, we are for all intents and purposes a military agency - there were a lot of cutbacks made in the past and when we went to war in places like The Gulf people suddenly realised we had no chefs left, so our regiment sort of came from fulfilling that need for chefs within the army. We train young soldiers even now and they get deployed across the globe, which opens up a different world for them. I am also a longstanding member of the Combined Services Culinary Arts Team and the British Army Culinary Arts Team which have both given me phenomenal experiences over time.’

As well as his work within the culinary sectors of the military, travel has been another influence which James highlights as having shaped his career to date and his travels have taken him to many inspiring locations over the years, some of them rather colder than others – ‘spending time in Antarctica was so inspiring, I have actually worked out there twice. The first time was a civilian contract but the guys who owned the company were ex-army and we were there with the television presenter Helen Skelton, who was skiing for Sport’s Relief. We were her logistical support team - we could not feed her as she had to be self – sustained during her challenge, but we were there to deal with any safety issues and I personally looked after feeding everyone else on the team. We were out on the ice for about four months in total and the temperature got down to about

minus 60 degrees at one point on the way back, but it was mainly minus 45 degrees while we were there - cooking in environments like that is unforgettable.’

As far as contrasts go, it is difficult to imagine two more opposite places than Antarctica and Australia, but a long spell working in the latter was another memorable period for James as he found himself cooking with ingredients which were completely new to him ‘I was in Australia for 18 months as head chef of a Ned Kelly’s Bushtucker Restaurant there, which was so interesting and very much a new experience for me. I had been working in London prior to that, then in Australia suddenly I was cooking with produce such as Kangaroo, Crocodile, Camel and native fish such as Barramundi. It was very different and I thrived on merging that new knowledge with 45

my existing cooking background - I found that it worked out very well.’

Once his time in Australia drew to a close, James was ready for a new challenge and his contacts from the military side of his work were helpful when he needed some extra hands in his next kitchen ‘when I came back to the UK from Australia, I took over as head chef at Dunstall Park Racecourse which was Britain’s first fully floodlit racecourse and therefore ideal for night-time racing meets. We were doing big numbers there of say 400 guests some nights and that was alongside the VIP suites, so it was very multi-faceted and another big operation. It was handy because whenever I needed freelancers, I was able to get a lot of the army lads I knew in to help during 46

JAMES ST CLAIRE – JONES

their weekends off. Army lads know how to follow orders because of the way the military system works with such discipline, all they need is a simple brief and then they go and make it happen! In contrast, sometimes if you throw fifteen civilians together they all go off in their own directions, whereas soldiers will do what they are told.’

James has never ceased to try his hand at new things and he even spent a spell working at Blenheim Palace which he confesses gave him a glimpse into an entirely different world and a more formal style of cooking ‘I spent some time working at Blenheim Palace, cooking for the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough and that was an eye – opener, looking into a whole different world of collecting the solid silver from the 1700s to

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serve soup in for his Grace! From there on I jumped around to a couple of different places, I was at a gastro pub for a bit which was fun, because it was when gastro pubs were a brand new thing at the time.’

The next step in his journey saw James making the transition into the hotel sector and he has never looked back since, having worked for a few prominent hotel groups before taking on the role of Executive Head Chef at Hoarcross Hall late last year ‘I worked at Forest of Arden which is a Marriot Hotel as Executive Sous, then after that it was on to eight years with Village Hotels which was a fab company to work for and I learned so much about food safety, food hygiene and procedure while I was there – knowledge which has been valuable. I love working in the luxury hotel trade and I started here at 48

JAMES ST CLAIRE – JONES

Hoarcross Hall last November, we went into another lockdown shortly after I started but my employers here have been so supportive and the directors took me to one side and assured me that they would grant me full pay until we were able to reopen. I was so pleased to have that security and I have been able to work throughout, developing dishes and putting the brigade together. The owners here want to push forward and I have complete free reign over what I put on the menu having that creative control is so enjoyable.

We have three restaurants here at Hoarcross Hall – The Ballroom which is one rosette, Hugo’s which is the Spa restaurant and then we have Henry’s which is casual dining serving brunch until noon, followed by plant led bowl food such as Puy lentils with harissa rose roasted vegetables for example. To give our guests a totally different dining option, in

the evening Henry’s takes on a relaxed theme with some Italian influences – we make our own authentic pizzas and there are grill dishes like spatchcocked chicken to choose from too.

It is tremendous fun having so many menus to oversee , I love being at Hoarcross Hall and it is an exciting company to work for – during lockdown alone they have invested heavily into the hotel and I am delighted to be a part of it all. There are some listed greenhouses on the property which we are looking at making into kitchen gardens, in fact there are lots of interesting plans in development including ideas for a tearoom and an outdoor spa area.’

Participating in prestigious competitions may not be something many people would regard as fun, but for several years James has relished competing in the prestigious Salon Culinaire contest and this year he received the

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JAMES ST CLAIRE – JONES

Gold Award in The Custom Culinary© Plant Forward Challenge, with the brief of creating an exceptional plant based dish, incorporating Custom Culinary© products. He certainly rose to the challenge, creating a dish of ‘tortelloni of vegan feta and wild woodland mushroom with warm sweetcorn panna cotta, hazelnut pesto crumb, mushroom-infused Puy lentils, mushroom broth and chive oil’ ‘Salon Culinaire is something I have competed in for years and I actually find the pressure fun. You also get to meet a lot of inspiring chefs along the way and it reminds me of a massive chef’s conference in one sense.

The inspiration for my dish came from here at Hoarcross Hall actually – the brief was that you had to incorporate the pastes and stocks provided by Custom Culinary© and I immediately realised what great products they are. I looked at the mushroom paste and thought I would use that one alongside

the vegetable one. I was here at Hoarcross Hall and I went for a walk around the formal gardens and the woodland and I spotted some wild garlic which inspired me to use that within the dish. When I read the criteria, I noticed that we were allowed to use dairy products, but I went with the idea of making an entirely vegan dish instead. Having studied a lot, I came across golden flax egg which I was able to add to the pasta flour to create a dough and the element of the warm panna cotta came from me looking at ideas for a summer menu for Hoarcross Hall. I was thinking about a chilled sweetcorn panna cotta with a crab cannelloni for our menu here and then from that I came up with the idea of adding a warm panna cotta to my Salon Culinaire dish. I had a lot of fun playing around with things for the entire dish and I realised that by using Agar agar gelling agent, as long as we didn’t go above 76 degrees a warm panna cotta wouldn’t melt and it

would set. I enhanced the tortelloni with a mushroom jus, made using the Custom Culinary© paste. I was delighted the dish did so well and the directors here at Hoarcross Hall have been so kind because they have allowed me to put the winning dish on our menu and for every one which we sell, they will donate £2 to my chosen charity which is Birmingham Children’s Hospital because when my daughter was young she was poorly and they looked after her - being able to give back to them through my work feels great.

The whole Salon Culinaire experience was so rewarding and working with the Custom Culinary© products was a pleasure – the products are easy to use and absolutely packed full of flavour, plus a little goes a long way so they are extremely cost effective and very versatile too. I used both their mushroom and vegetable pastes in the competition and they deliver an instant burst of authentic and rich flavour’.

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FONDS & PASTES CUSTOM CULINARY® FONDS, FUMETS AND PASTES ARE QUALITY PRODUCTS FOR THE CHEF WHO DEMANDS ONLY THE BEST INGREDIENTS. James St Claire-Jones Gold Award dish in the Salon Culinaire Custom Culinary Plant Forward Challenge featuring Custom Culinary® Products.

ROAST BEEF

VEAL

FO NDS

FONDS

A classic concentrated veal fond made of veal bones and vegetables to be used as a base for soup, sauces, stew and casseroles.

NO ADDED MSG

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GLUTEN FREE

24% VEAL

Roasted beef bones concentrated to a hearty jus that can be used as a stock base for soup, sauces, stew and casseroles or as a base for sauces, demi-glace and gravy.

NO ADDED MSG

23% ROAST BEEF

VEGETABLE FO NDS

A concentrated classic vegetable fond made of carrot, leek, onion and turnip to use in vegan soups, stews, casseroles, risotto and pasta dishes to boost overall flavour.

MUSHROOM FONDS

A culinary paste of porcini, boletus and champignons to boost umami in soup, stew, casseroles. Also great as a base for risotto, vegan dishes, sauces and to avour butters.

NO ADDED MSG GLUTEN FREE SUITABLE FOR NO ADDED MSG GLUTEN FREE VEGANS

68% MUSHROOM

GARLIC

PRAWN

FISH

PASTE

FUMET

FUMET

A concentrated vegan sautéed garlic paste to add avour and culinary roundness to soups, stews, casseroles, dressings, sauces, aioli and garlic butter.

NO ADDED MSG GLUTEN FREE

SUITABLE FOR VEGANS

RED FISH

A classic prawn fond made from cooked shrimp to be used in soup, bisque, casseroles, paella, risotto, rice and pasta dishes.

NO ADDED MSG 44% SHRIMP

selected he A classic white sh fumet made from hake and selected herbs and spices to be used in soups, chowders, stew and casseroles.

NO ADDED MSG GLUTEN FREE

45% HAKE

FUMET

E CHICKEN WHIT

ST CHICKEN ROA

A mediterranean red fish fumet made from streaked gurnard and prawns. Excellent as a base for fish soup, bisque, seafood casserole, paella, rice and pasta dishes.

A boiled chicken fond made of chicken white meat and aromatic vegetables to be used in soups, casseroles, stews, risotto and pasta dishes.

Perfect in asian dishes.

A classic roast chicken fond to be used in soups, sauces, stew, casseroles and risotto.

NO ADDED MSG GLUTEN FREE

FONDS

36% RED FISH

NO ADDED MSG GLUTEN FREE

40% WHITE CHICKEN

FO NDS

CONTAINS NO ADDED MSG NATURALLY OCCURRING SUGAR

21% ROAST CHICKEN

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Words Andrew Richardson

Claridge THERE IS NO INTERVIEW BECAUSE THERE IS NO NEED. ALEX CLARIDGE, CHEF PAT R O N O F T H E W I L D E R N E S S , I N B I R M I N G H A M , H A S L O N G B E E N R E C O G N I S E D A S O N E O F T H E I N D U S T R Y ’ S M O S T A R T I C U L AT E , M O S T T H O U G H T F U L A N D M O S T H O N E S T C O M M E N TAT O R S . H E ’ S A L S O O N E O F T H E M O S T I N T E L L I G E N T. A M A N E Q U A L LY AT E A S E F O C U S I N G O N T H E D O W N S I D E S O F H O S P I TA L I T Y A S H E I S O F TA L K I N G I T U P, C O V I D - 1 9 C A S T H I M I N T H E R O L E O F C A M PA I G N E R .

CH-CH-CHANGES A hybrid dish leading from savoury to sweet. Banana and madras curry caramel custard, with a verjus caramel, coconut and yoghurt mousse encased in white chocolate, hand decorated to look like a banana.

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THE BAT 21st century Tiramisu with preserved cherry, mascarpone, pedro ximinez sherry and pecan. A fitting tribute to Ozzy - thanks for all the tunes.

Tirelessly seeking political intervention to assist those most in need, the chef-patron walked the walk. In addition to seeking out West Midlands Mayor, Andy Street, and working collaboratively with others in the Second City, he also provided support for his own team, offering mental health counselling for those who felt isolated or alienated by the mind-bending abnormality of not being allowed to chop an onion or pan fry a scallop.

“Covid?” he says. “I’ve had my fill. Mostly, my abiding emotion is disbelief at the Government, though disbelief doesn’t cover it. The Prime Minister’s crass, inept actions were the impetus for the first petition of many.

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“Throughout Covid, it was great to see hospitality coming together with one voice to say ‘this isn’t on’. It was equally heart-breaking to see those numbers of redundancies and business failures soar as we realised how many people were in the same boat.”

Claridge accepts the dice were loaded against the Government as it faced the greatest medical challenge in a century. He wouldn’t expect any Government or individual to handle a pandemic perfectly.

“It’s been a surreal situation. As in theory we come out the other side – though I’ll reserve judgement on that – I’m concerned that the

narrative has been spun. People are talking about the hardship for hospitality about so many industries but it’s not Covid that’s caused this. The worst effects have been caused by consistently poor management, consistently poor communications and by decisions that have been taken at the wrong time and without adequate or acceptable knowledge. There are other Governments in Europe that have shown respect and done more.

“I’m a big believer in not biting the hand that feeds, so I’m grateful for the scraps that have been thrown our way. But this has been a Government PR exercise rather than a

meaningful attempt to support hospitality. The Government has had a meaningful opportunity to look at the way we work. Not to speak too bluntly, it should by now have given us a reason to believe in it. Instead, we had a budget that was piss poor and offering a short-term VAT cut just doesn’t do anything for us.”

Debut is an issue that has slipped from the wider narrative as restaurants focus on reopening and creating a positive outlook. Debt, however, hangs heavy.

“That level of debt needed a medium to long term recompense to motivate us and keep us active. Instead, we’re looking at a corporation tax increase in the next few years. If you came to me and said would you like to throw six figures at this and you won’t see any return for several years and after that you might get a few pence in the pound back, I’d say no. But that’s the position they’ve put us in.

It’s a landlords market. Landlords have been protected above the industry. The landlords aren’t playing ball and we’re seeing businesses collapse. If you want hospitality to survive, what are you going to do?”

Claridge knows his place. For all of his wise words and all of his campaigning, he doesn’t have access to the corridors of power. “I’m a simple cook, not an economist or politician or the right sort of person who’s been to one or two private schools in the country. But the deal for hospitality is simple: they must improve the profitability of businesses so that they can improve their cash reserves. It’s been a shit show. Central Government couldn’t organise a piss up in a brewery. Some of the most important sectors will be paying the price.

That’s assuming this is the end of the dumb fuckery. Do you look at Boris and think he’s a guy who’s learned his lesson and got his shit together? I don’t and I don’t think we have a competent Government.I’m not her to slate Tories. I’m just here to run my business. As thinigs stand, what is the incentive to create jobs and invest in this sector?

“We have a blood bath coming in autumn when we see the true impact of Brexit and the end of furlough.”

Ah yes, Brexit. The issue that’s conveniently been forgotten about as hospitality faces a surfeit of staffing problems and issues surrounding imported produce.

“Brexit has slid under the covers. Covid has become an amazing scapegoat. Look, people are leaving the industries in droves. We had two chefs who through no lack of willingness on our part have ultimately left. It’s a shame. One guy has become a plumber because he can have a better work-life balance and earn the same: who can blame him?”

weird twilight zone. People have experienced life without that pressure and they will ask whether they need it now.

Claridge doesn’t suggest he has all the answers. He does, however, have plenty of inconvenient truths.

“It’s a brave new world where we have a chance to renavigate and reinvent. For those who have a chance to do that, I hope it makes the industry more modern and progressive.” But there is deep peril in the sector and Claridge is not alone in recognising it.

“I fundamentally believe in the goodness of people but hospitality is subsidised through sheer grit and determination. We’re in this

“Restaurants are in worse financial shape than ever and it will take a concerted effort from multiple parties to change that.” One of those parties HAS to be the Government.

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Kasai - Fire

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THERE ARE SOME MANAGING D I R E C T O R S T H AT S P E N D T H E I R D AY D O I N G T H E J O B , B E F O R E L E AV I N G I T AT T H E O F F I C E DOOR AND GOING HOME. THEN T H E R E A R E T H E O T H E R S T H AT ARE FRONT AND FOREMOST OF T H E E N T I R E C O M PA N Y A N D L I V E , B R E AT H E T H E I R B U S I N E S S 7 D AY S A WEEK. ALEX SHANNON FROM S O U S V I D E T O O L S I S T H E L AT T E R .

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For 40 years, Alex has been growing SousVideTools and today the company employs a team as obsessed with great food and technology as most chefs. SousVideTools is one of those companies you can reach out to for support. They build a relationship with their clients that goes way further than just the sale of a product. One example is their commitment to deliver online training classes free of charge to their customers, with the next on June 8th focussing on the partnership between sous-vide and BBQ. I catch up with Alex as he is speeding up to Scotland for a meeting, whilst at the same time arranging a Zoom call back in London. Things have been busy for SousVideTools. As the sector opens up, demand is high. And while lockdown forced everyone to shut, Alex and the team have been working on projects. From the super sustainable brand ‘sustainapouch’ which will revolutionise just how much plastic waste the 61

Grilling over an open flame is one of the oldest cooking techniques in Japan. From around 2,000 years ago, wood-based charcoal was the most common household fuel used in Japan, and this lasted until the 1950s. The heart of the home was around the grill, used not just for cooking, but also for heat and light. Cooking over charcoal led to recipes and techniques that are as popular today as centuries ago. There are several traditional types of grills, all dependent on the number of people you wish to cook for, mobility and material; Hibachi – traditionally porcelain and originally used as a room heater before the realisation came that it could be used for cooking. Today available in cast-iron and stainless-steel Shichirin – super tiny and suitable for 2 people. Traditionally made from ceramic Irori - traditional Japanese open hearth. So not really suitable for your kitchen as these were traditionally dug into dirt floors! The irori hearth is filled with sand and ashes to protect the wood of the house from the burning charcoal, and food is cooked in this sand pit or suspended on a hook over the irori hearth.

Teppan – you guessed it, where teppanyaki comes from. This is a free-standing BBQ style piece of kit, usually with a solid top rather than grill bars.

Konro - Compact in design, typically box-shaped, and lined with ceramic or aluminium. Traditionally used for cooking with binchotan charcoal. Konro typically have a narrow design so that skewered foods can be placed atop the grill without the risk of them falling in.

industry has previously created to the launch of their Kasai Grill, which has got chefs up and down the UK buzzing with excitement. This is the new piece of kit everyone wants.

The British-made Kasai Grill is a stainless-steel BBQ inspired by the famous Japanese blueprint of the Konro. To understand the Konro, take a look at our side panel.

The iconic structure of the Kasai uses a special insulating material that reflects heat back into the grill, allowing for a consistent temperature throughout cooking. It relies on bricks which are each fitted together precisely by hand for a strong, tighter, more fire-resistant finished product.

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As a result, the charcoal in these grills burns longer than those used in conventional grills, giving the ultimate cooking experience. The binchotan charcoal required also produces inimitable smokiness when cooking, without the traditional BBQ’s bitter and burnt flavours.

Once finished, the coals can be cooled, left to dry and used again and again.

SousVideTools have partnered up with chef Tommy Banks for the launch of the Kasai grill, with the chef behind Roots York and The Black Swan posting inspiration and ideas through his social media accounts. We caught up with Tommy to ask him why this piece of kit is set to become a cult item:

WHAT IS BINCHOTAN CHARCOAL? Binchotan Charcoal is nearly 100% carbon. Also known as White Charcoal because of its white ash residue, the name 'Binchotan' came from a famous charcoal artisan, Binchoya Chozaemon. The secret to the process was carefully guarded but, in time, became known in other parts of Japan. Fans believe that Kishu Binchotan charcoal remains the finest to this day. It remains a handmade product using a process handed down through generations.

Binchotan is produced in Tanabe, Wakayama and is referred to as Kishu Binchō-tan. It is favoured by cooks around the world since it burns at a lower temperature and for longer periods of time than ordinary charcoal and doesn't produce any unpleasant

odours, making it ideal for sealing in natural flavours. Kishu Binchō-tan also has purifying properties and is commonly used for filtering drinking water and absorbing odours in fridges and cupboards. It is harder than traditional black charcoal and has a distinctive metallic ringing sound if struck together. It has been steadily gaining popularity worldwide and is even used in the production of clothing and instruments.

Beware of many other Binchotan being produced outside of Japan being marketed as Japanese charcoal.

Many are made using chemical additives and accelerants. The Binchotan should be sourced as 100% pure Ubame oak from Shikoku or Wakayama Japan.

“The Kasai is the ultimate Konro grill for professional chefs or keen home cooks. It is smart and portable; we use them in both our Michelin star restaurants and I have one at home. The Kasai – one of my favourite kitchen gadgets!”

And though the fan club began with Tommy, we are seeing the Kasai entering some of the most exciting kitchens in the UK. Gareth Ward of Ynyshir proudly displaying his new addition to the kitchen over Instagram to the delight of hundreds of other chefs.

Over time, certain pieces of kit have entered the market, been on Chefs’ wish lists and stood the test of time. In the 1960’s it was Thermomix,

in the 1970’s the first Big Green Egg was created, though it was a while before it entered UK kitchens, in the early 2000’s it was the PacoJet. The Kasai is destined to join the list of iconic must-have kitchen equipment in kitchens around the UK. The theatre, simplicity and consistency of cooking over a Kasai, mirrored with the fact that it is compact - it doesn’t require too much space, plus the fact that it is portable is going to make it highly desirable, especially in a world where so many chefs take to outside demonstrations, or off-site cooking. The price point is reasonable too. The smaller Kasai £399, the medium £499.

Visit www.sousvidetools.com for more information 63

Words Claire Bosi Camera Michelle Martin

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T I N T E Y? D I A DICTIONARY DEFINITION IS THIS; THE

DISTINGUISHING CHARACTER OR PERSONALITY OF AN INDIVIDUAL : INDIVIDUALITY. THE BEST INDEPENDENT RESTAURANTS SHOW THEIR INDIVIDUALITY ACROSS ALL PLATFORMS.

Take, for example, Clare Smyth. Those who are followers of Clare will recognise the fact that her personality, skill and values are displayed throughout everything she does. Whether that is appearing on television with James Martin, an Instagram film, a recipe or a restaurant experience – everything is unmistakably Clare Smyth. The same can be said of her dining room, her plate ware, her branding. Similarly, Sketch, The Fat Duck, Ducasse, Royal Hospital Road – the list goes on. Identity and Individuality is important.

Many of our operators have used the enforced closures of their businesses to sit back and take a look at the environments they are cooking and serving in. They have allowed themselves the time to be creative, to study their public facing parts of the business and make changes. We look at two – Brad Carter of Carters in Moseley and Tony Parkin, of the Tudor Room, Great Fosters

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Tony Parkin TUDOR ROOM, GREAT FOSTERS

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Great Fosters is a charming Tudor estate steeped in royal history and located just outside of Windsor in the heart of Surrey. With 50 acres of gardens and grounds, complete with listed topiary mazes, a fountain, Saxon moat, Japanese bridge and even a sundial gifted to the Estate by Sir Francis Drake himself, the instantly recognisable red-brick facade and chimney tops of Great Fosters is a sight to behold indeed.

Tony Parkin has been in situ at Great Fosters since 2019, retaining the Michelin star after 4 months in the 2020 guide, rewarded again in 2021. With a career that saw Tony at Noma, 66

Kommendaten, Northcote Manor, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Danesfield House, Tony has made a forthright start to his position at Great Fosters, rebranding the restaurant under his own name – holding his own identity within the hotel. This isn't just a restaurant within a hotel – this is Tony Parkin at the Tudor Room – it just happens to be in a beautiful hotel.

Prior to the re-opening of the restaurant in May, the dining room ‘didn't truly suit’ Tony’s personality or vision. Obviously, the building is highly listed. It was Henry the Eighths hunting lodge, after all. Knocking down walls,

and tearing out ancient panelling might be frowned upon by conservationists, so Tony and his team have had to look at removeable elements of his dining room and work with colours, fabrics and lighting. But there are few ‘fusions’ that work as well as period features and contemporary design.

As the public got to know Tony through his appearance on Great British Menu, changes were afoot inside the restaurant. Reflecting on the style of Tony’s cooking, the dining room was given an overhaul. Dark reds made way for lighter teals, greys and silvers; heavy fabrics set

aside for elegant velvets. The huge tapestry that hangs on the wall of the restaurant given a new lease of life, as lighter and brighter colours within it are echoed throughout the room. Each chair is adorned with a silk ‘TP’ cushion – you know whose restaurant you are in, that’s for sure.

For as much as we have seen Tony larking about on television, or on social media – he is a very serious chef. He can joke and mess about probably better than most of us. But his kitchen, his food, his team - he takes very seriously. He has a brilliant right-hand man in the form of his Sous chef Tim Sheed, who has been by his side

for over two years. Their kitchen is, perhaps, one of the smallest I have seen in the UK yet they turn out plate after plate for the tasting menus. Though small, the kitchen is compact, organised and highly effective. Not too far from the restaurant entrance, as the chefs play a significant role in the delivering, and finishing off of dishes to the table.

Tony makes no bones about it – he has his eyes set on a second Michelin star, and is improving and investing in both himself and his restaurant on a continuous basis. His cuisine blends classic, and modern – as does the interior of his

dining room, then surprises with delicate Thai influences, again subtly picked up within the colour scheme usage of silver and teal.

Some might say that to get to one Michelin star, be a successful operator, have a great team and a supportive owner could be enough – just settle in and enjoy the ride. For Tony, the journey has only just begun. With a book due to be published by A Way with Media, in October 2021, Chef Tony Parkin has set out his stall. Keep happy and healthy, have confidence in what you do, keep improving and always look forward. The best is yet to come.

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Camera Jack Spicer Adams

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I T ’ S N O S U R P R I S E T H AT M I C H E L I N - S TA R R E D B R A D C A R T E R C H A N G E D T H E D É C O R I N H I S R E S TA U R A N T N O T O N C E , B U T T W I C E , D U R I N G L O C K D O W N .

T H E A C I D - H O U S E L O V I N G C O O K H A S A LW AY S B E E N O N E S T E P A H E A D O F T H E C O M P E T I T I O N ; I F T H E R E W E R E A P R I Z E F O R I N N O VAT I O N , C H U T Z PA H A N D C A N - D O AT T I T U D E , H E ’ D W I N I T E V E R Y T I M E .

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When lockdown struck, Carter got a local graffiti artist to, well, mess up the kitchen. Smiley faces and day glow colours were daubed – a trip into the mind of a non-conformist rebel who plays by his own rules. More recently, as lockdown came to an end, a more sober scheme was put in place, giving guests a comfortable experience in which they have more engagement with Carter and his team.

“The tiles were a bit trippy when we did the kitchen the first time round,” says Brad. “I think last year was when everyone hit the reset button; not just us, but the whole industry. As lockdown went on, we had more time to think about what was going on and what we were doing. I felt last year was a car crash and perhaps we showed that in the first revamp in the restaurant. We were showing creativity. We had lost our minds a bit but we were staying collective at the same time.”

Carter’s knocked down an internal wall between the kitchen and the dining room, to quite literally remove any barriers between cooks and guests. “We used to get so many guests coming into the kitchen that we thought we’d make it easier. Everyone is invited into the kitchen – now they don’t have to go through a door.”

Carter’s also created a four-seat chef’s table, where diners can sit within two metres of Carter as he works the pass. The chef-patron enjoyed the interaction with customers and looks forward with relish to doing more of that in the time ahead. Plans to relocate to the city’s Jewellery Quarter were also shelved, after considerable exploration.

“We’d been looking around and there was a lot of talk of us moving or relocating. I think lockdown taught us that we don’t want to do 69

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that. We want to stay where we are, in Moseley, and we want to keep refining it. Me and Holly (Brad’s partner) started this from scratch and we want to see it through. We want to refine what we’ve been doing for the last 8-10 years and just get better at it.”

means it’s hard to be connected to nature. But I’m connected to the allotment and I’m connected to the day boats. Look, Birmingham’s the furthest from the sea and nature of anywhere in the UK; if we can do that and be sustainable then so can everyone else.”

Though the interior of the restaurant changed, the ethos did not. Carter has doubled down on his vision to use British ingredients; the only ones that are not from the UK are chocolate, coffee and soy sauce. “99% is from the UK. From the ones that aren’t, two don’t grow here and we don’t make soy sauce as well.

Carter’s was the first in the UK to create at-home boxes during lockdown then at Christmas it converted itself into a kebab shop, serving 400 covers a week across two days. It would sell out on Tock within five minutes. “We’re all about innovation. I wanted to do something positive for the people and for our customers, the boxes then the kebabs were the highlight of the week. But that’s gone now, it’s food they enjoyed but an experience they won’t get again. Now it’s all about rebranding the restaurant and refining what me, Holly and the team have worked so hard for.”

“The vision for the menu is to be reactive to what we receive. I have an allotment that’s five minutes away and through summer that becomes 25% of the menu. It’s been a long process. We’re in the city and that

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REVEALS TOP TIPS AS INDUSTRY RE-OPENS INDOORS

NESTLÉ PROFESSIONAL HAS REVEALED ITS TOP TIPS TO SUPPORT O P E R AT O R S A S H O S P I TA L I T Y M O V E S BACK INDOORS.

Stephen Norris, sales director, Nestlé Professional UK & Ireland says: “After months of uncertainty, initial data is showing promising signs as the industry re-opens with 46% more bookings made for the week commencing 17 May compared to the first week of outdoor opening in April .

“These last few weeks have shown us that consumers are keen to get back out there, which is very encouraging but uncertainty still lies ahead. As an industry, it’s important that we work together today in order to build a better tomorrow. So, following weeks talking to customers, we’ve compiled a list of top tips to help navigate these unprecedented times.”

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Nestlé Professional’s top tips: Order little and often to prevent waste and maximise profits Unpredictable consumer demand will continue to make forecasting stock levels a challenge.

We know wholesales, caterers and chefs are looking to keep stock levels to a minimum – both to avoid waste and increase profitability.

To help, we’re working with customers to simplify menus and encourage stocking more versatile ingredients that can be used in a number of different dishes. We are also having conversations across the supply chain to ensure that we have the stock available 1

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Harness the trust of brands Harness the trust of brands by being vocal about which ones you use on your menu. With more than two-thirds of #1 brands seeing higher than average share in April 2020, it’s apparent that consumers look for brands they can trust in times of uncertainty.2 3

Pull on the power of plant-based We know that 44% of consumers would like more restaurants to offer plant-based meat alternatives. 3 The plant-based category presents a large growth opportunity across all channels. Pull on the power of plant-based by making sure there are veggie and vegan options available on your menu to cater to this growing demand and encourage repeat visits / purchase.

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Get the basics right Almost 87% hospitality employers have said that they were finding it difficult to recruit for kitchen and back of house roles and this has meant that they have to invest more time and money into retraining to ensure current employees are prepared after several months of furlough. 4 From specialist barista trainers

to development chefs, food technologists to nutrition and sustainability experts, our solutions ensure we can give your business the know-how where you need it most. We have been running successful virtual samplings to ensure that staff are knowledgeable about our products.

Boost productivity with your food and drink offering in the workplace We are likely to see a hybrid workplace model emerge in which employees divide their time between working from home and going into the office for collaborative sessions. Research shows that face to face meetings can boost team performance by 35% 5 and the food and drink offering will be key in helping to facilitate this. From seasonal promotions to meal deals, there are lots of ways to drive your potential and satisfy your customers and using our extensive research and industry-specific experience, we can help find the most effective strategies to achieve this.

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Continue to embrace delivery to increase revenue streams Delivery has been a lifeline for many establishments during lockdown. In fact, 27% of British adults ordered more deliveries than usual (or for the first time) during lockdown, with signs indicating they will continue their high frequency including from pubs and bars.

6 Planning for the future with a mix of takeaway and delivery-friendly dishes will help cater to changing consumer demands as well as generating additional revenue streams. By partnering with us you can access some of the best development chefs in the industry. As well as benefiting from a constant stream of innovations, you can also use their knowledge to develop your own cutting-edge food and drink products.

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Propel Premium Wednesday News Briefing, 12 May 2021 Kantar FMCG Panel 4 we 19/4/20 3 Nestlé Professional plant-based menu, 2018 4 https://www.bighospitality.co.uk/Article/2021/05/14/One-in-three-hospitality-employers-don-t-haveenough-staff-for-next-week-s-reopening 5 www.inc.com/amy-balliett/how-this-1-change-in-your-communication-style-can-boost-productivity.html 6 CGA Brandtrack, April 2020 2

For more information or support with the reopening, please visit https://www.nestleprofessional.co.uk/ 73

Words Caitlin Allwood Head of Operations at Tonic Talent

The search for talent

O V E R T H E L A S T F E W W E E K S I N T H E B U I L D - U P T O H O S P I TA L I T Y R E - O P E N I N G , THERE’S BEEN A BUZZ IN THE OFFICE AS THE TEAM BEGIN TO RE-ENGAGE W I T H C L I E N T S A N D C A N D I D AT E S . E V E R Y D AY W E A R E A D D I N G A N O T H E R J O B T O O U R E V E R - G R O W I N G L I S T O F VA C A N C I E S A N D A R E B E I N G A S K E D T O HELP BUSINESSES REBUILD THEIR TEAMS.

The truth is we’re busier than ever, but there’s one noticeable difference that we didn’t really see coming and that is the lack of great talent.

On social media, the threads get longer and longer as businesses are left perplexed at the lack of applications as they desperately scramble around trying to replace the staff they have lost in the last 14 months. Kate Nicholls of UKHospitality told BBC Radio 74

4’s Today programme (29th of April), that based on the data she has, the shortage was at its greatest in more senior roles.

However, what we are seeing is a lack of suitable applications coming through at all levels – this drought is widespread and indiscriminate. Not only is it at all levels, but it is impacting most businesses too. We’re seeing great places to work with incredible people at the top who are struggling to get the right people in.

Really, should we have seen this coming?

In short, yes. You would have been hard pushed to find a hospitality business that had never suffered staffing issues before now, then add to that Brexit and a pandemic, it’s the perfect storm.

To add to this there also appears to be a steady trickle of hospitality staff who, upon being asked to return to work, have handed in their

notice at the most inconvenient time for their employers. You’d think that with all these people leaving, there’d be more applications coming through, but that’s simply not what is happening.

Michael Caines told BBC News that he believes Brexit, the pandemic and furlough, are to blame for the struggle stating employees are sticking with current employers due to the uncertainty of things "A lot of people feel very

concerned about leaving a job where they qualify for furlough to take the new job where they wouldn't qualify for furlough if there was another lockdown,".

However, is that the reason we’re seeing such a significant shortage? Who’s to say those who are on Furlough will want to switch to a different hospitality business when it ends or that more certainty around the future of the sector would see an influx in applications.

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So, why aren’t we getting applications through for vacancies and where are the staff that have given in their notice, going to?

We spoke to one Restaurant Manager in Birmingham who told us he’d had a senior member of his team give in their notice only a couple of weeks before re-opening indoors.

The business had put the employee on the government’s Furlough Scheme and after confirming the dates staff were to return fulltime, revealed she was leaving to work in a different sector. She explained she wanted her evenings and weekends to herself and that her new career offered her that.

For Tonic as a hospitality recruitment company, when we’ve caught up with candidates this is a story we’re hearing more and more often; that people have taken on jobs in the last year to tide them over and as we inched closer to reopening have decided that they don’t want to return to hospitality life. Reasons for switching sector vary, but the one that keeps cropping up is the work-life balance. It’s what most people want now and the last year has given them a taste of exactly that.

Unsociable hours in hospitality might be an issue for some, but there are plenty of other reasons, such as workers feeling like the sector isn’t valued and that the job they do is deemed as “unskilled”, it doesn’t really make it sound like an attractive career choice, does it? Despite the shortage the industry is facing, roles in this sector are not on the government’s ‘Skilled Worker visa: shortage occupations’ list.

Whilst in some senior roles in hospitality, the pay can be good or even above average.

However, it’s often the case that even in senior roles with the hours worked the value of the salary decreases somewhat and staff can effectively be getting paid below minimum wage. Pay and how it is structured was an area of concern for people who were put on Furlough who discovered that their Tronc would not be included. This resulted in many staff being forced to leave their jobs because they could not afford to live on 80% of their basic wage. It’s estimated that some 76

employees' Tronc payments can make up to a staggering 40%* of their pay. Many of those who were caught short will be wary of returning to the industry because of this.

One of the other causes for people leaving the industry is that it can be seen as being youth-oriented and as employees find commitments outside of work, such as a partner and starting a family they often see that as the end of their hospitality

career and because the industry can’t adapt to the lifestyles of grown-ups and their commitments. We often hear from men and women who tell us they want more family time and since the pandemic, this has been exacerbated.

There’s also Brexit. According to Big Hospitality, there’s been a significant drop in EU nationals in the industry. In Q1 in 2019 48.6% of new starters in hospitality were from the EU,

compared to Q1 in 2021 where this has dropped to 34.9% and is expected to plummet even further. Although there isn’t any data on this currently, we also suspect that some of the workers who were employed in the UK preCovid were let go when the pandemic hit and left to return to their home country.

None of us really know exactly what’s around the corner but the sector cannot wait for the tide to turn and it’s now time to be proactive.

WHAT CAN BUSINESSES DO NOW? When hiring, businesses really need to think outside the box and consider applications that they maybe wouldn’t have done so previously, and it is now about getting the right people in. This way of recruiting requires more investment and time from businesses but looking at someone’s transferable skills could be the way forward. Ask yourself about the journey you want your business to take and ask, “do I want this person on the bus?”.

Now is the time to work on creating a diverse workforce.

Is your business set up to

accommodate everyone, or is how you do things only going to appeal to one demographic?

We’re now in a candidate-led market which means that the value of candidates has gone up.

This means hospitality operators need to think more about what makes working for them attractive. What can you offer the candidate? You need to sell the opportunity.

Ask: Can I offer a good work-life balance?

Can I offer career progression?

Could I add in a governmentbacked apprenticeship as part of the package?

Can I put up the salary?

Could someone with a family work in my business?

When we think of sustainability we often think about food and the environment, but what about creating a sustainable environment for your staff? It’s possible that the way we’ve all been working hasn’t necessarily been that sustainable and that at some point there was always going to have to change. In a Code Happiness in Hospitality report from 2020, 73% of respondents said they would

recommend the industry as a career which although down from 81% in 2019, is still really high so we know there’s hope.

It’s easy to over-simplify why we’re in this state of influx and condemn staff for “taking advantage” of Furlough and leaving the industry, but the issue around staffing is not a new one and now is the time to listen and ask why they left. Moving forward requires us to look at the situation from the other person's point of view and to try to understand. * Fourth.com

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Business Spotlight

EGGRUN

HATCHES

In Association with

IN MONUMENT WITH MORE TO COME I N I T I A L LY L A U N C H E D A S A D E L I V E R Y- O N LY B U S I N E S S D U R I N G T H E PA N D E M I C , E G G R U N H A S O P E N E D I T S F I R S T P E R M A N E N T S I T E I N T H E C I T Y O F L O N D O N O N M O N D AY, 1 7 T H M AY. 78

The debut counter-service restaurant located

by Monument on Fish Hill, is the brainchild of entrepreneurial co-founders, Asher Grant and Laurent Manuel, and will cater for timepoor Londoners looking for a protein-packed fast meal. The menu, by Executive Chef and partner in the business, John Skotidas of Notting Hill restaurant, Mazi, has been designed to offer a balance of health and indulgence with dishes suitable for everyone – egg-lovers, vegans, vegetarians and meateaters.

Open from breakfast through to dinner, for eat-in or take-away, dishes start from £6.45 and use only the highest quality, sustainably sourced and organic ingredients including Clarence Court Burford Brown eggs, freshly baked brioche buns, home-made sauces, HG Walter 100% organic beef burgers alongside plant-based ones from Beyond 79

THE TEAM BEHIND EGGRUN ASHER GRANT - CO-FOUNDER Born in London, Asher Grant has over 14 years experience in the hospitality industry.

In 2017 he opened his own venue in the heart of Piccadilly, The London REIGN. After three years it has become one of London’s most exciting night time spots attracting a plethora of international clientele and celebrities alike.

It was awarded ‘best new club’ at the ‘London club & bar awards 2018’.

LAURENT MANUEL - CO-FOUNDER Laurent is a French-American former professional soccer player turned entrepreneur from New York City who holds a B.A. in Economics from Brown University.

In 2014, Laurent was an original investor in The Garret, a popular retro speakeasy bar which has now expanded to three locations in New York City’s West Village, East Village and NOLITA. In 2018, he created & launched Meraki Bar a hidden invite-only restaurant-bar housed below the popular modern Greek restaurant Meraki owned by Peter & Arjun Waney.

JOHN SKOTIDAS - PARTNER & EXECUTIVE CHEF John is a Greek-South American awardwinning executive chef.

Born and raised in Panama by his Asian mother he developed an early understanding and interest in combining flavours. He then moved to Athens, Greece where he finished his culinary art studies and started to work in fine dining restaurants.

His rapid rise within the culinary world was due to his work as a head chef and now executive chef for Mazi, Suzi Tros & Mazi Abu Dhabi.

His style of cooking is modern Greek cuisine with a fusion of Asian and South American influences. He recently appeared as a guest judge on the international TV show, Master Chef Greece.

SCOTT CHESTER - PARTNER & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Scott Chester started his career in the hospitality industry in 2010. Now with over 10 years’ experience he is current the Operations Director for The London Reign (Night Club) and EggRun. Scott was awarded Best London DJ at the 2014 “London Club and Bar Awards”.

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Meat. Sustainability is at the heart of the business – all packaging is biodegradable, compostable or recyclable with no single use plastic.

Options include the brand’s signature ‘Originals’ including the EggRun with scrambled eggs caramelised onions, cheddar cheese, chives and EggRun’s secret sauce on a warm brioche bun; Cup on The Run; scrambled eggs, avocado and feta cream cheese; and the carb-lite TacoRun with scrambled eggs, feta cream cheese, EggRun’s secret sauce, caramelised onions and chives on romaine lettuce. Also on the menu is a choice of burgers and salads alongside vegan and vegetarian options featuring vegan eggs, cheese and buns as well as plant-based patties.

Designed by Brace-Studio, EggRun Monument spans 1,200 square feet and is spread over two floors with 10 covers for those looking to eat-in. Downstairs a living wall is lit with a neon ‘eggs are my spirit animal’ sign, whilst a white brick wall leads to the first floor and features EggRun’s playful logo and glowing brand testimonials. Upstairs seating has been ergonomically designed whilst two quirky eggshaped seats tick the Instagram box.

Laurent Manuel, co-founder of EggRun comments:

Opening Hours Monday - Friday 7am-7pm, Saturdays from 21 June Delivery via Uber Eats & Deliveroo

“EggRun is food for the way we like to eat now - high protein, fresh, fast guilt-free food for everyone that offers the perfect balance of health and indulgence. We put our money into the best sustainably sourced ingredients and recyclable packaging and we are confident that EggRun will be embraced by increasingly health-conscious, time-poor Londoneres “.

At least a further two EggRuns are planned over the next 12 months with the plan to build a portfolio of 15 by 2023.

EggRun 46 Fish Hill, London EC3R 6BR E: info@EggRunGroup.com Website: www.theEggRun.com 81

A MODERN ESCOFFIER IN YOUR POCKET

IN 1903, THE ‘KING OF CHEFS, AND THE CHEF OF KINGS’ AUGUSTE ESCOFFIER P U B L I S H E D A B O O K W H I C H , T O T H I S D AY HAS BECOME A BIBLE FOR CHEFS AROUND THE WORLD. LE GUIDE CULINAIRE REMAINS I N P R I N T A N D H A S B E E N T R A N S L AT E D INTO MANY LANGUAGES.

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Escoffier was famed for being ahead of his time, for working on the cutting edge of modernity. In the introduction to the first edition, Escoffier remarks that his intention for the publication was that it would be used towards the education of the younger generation of chefs. It is still used in culinary schools today as a point of reference.

There is a definite beauty in a library of well published cookery books (and specialist magazines!). Most chefs will be proud of their collection of classic and modern titles and, at times, perhaps refer back to them for inspiration. As Escoffier has proven, the best printed titles stay around for decades, even centuries.

Since 2014 there has been a new kid on the block, a ‘modern Escoffier’ attracting the attention of chefs both young and old. Fully digital, interactive, personalised and tested.

The brains behind this platform, Dutch duo Inge Meijs and Jeroen van Oijen created the platform Gastronomixs in 2012. Launching firstly in the Netherlands, the pair had their eyes firmly set on the UK and Ireland, inspired by the innovation and progression within our industry.

After a fifteen-year career in gastronomy, Jeroen embarked on a career as a marketing adviser in the food service/catering industry. Inge was trained as a food designer 83

121 FAVOURITE COMPONENTS

and digital marketer. As the pair began to work together on events and projects, Inge explains how the conversation would often turn to food, and one vision in particular; “Jeroen would often talk about one desire he had, when he was cooking professionally.

A resource that allowed you to fully explore components and ingredients within recipes.

A tool that was clean, easy to access, fun to use and that consisted of tested techniques and recipes.

We decided that our first port of call would be to publish a book, and we did. But that didn’t satisfy the original brief in Jeroens’ mind. As soon as something is published, it is already out of date, there are always new things to add. Digital was going to be the way forward.

And so, Gastronomixs was created.”

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GASTRONOMIXS

35 INSPIRING SUMMER COMPONENTS

In 2014, the UK and Ireland Gastronomixs platform arrived and quickly drew the attention of both student and professional chefs. Multi Michelin starred chefs began to pay attention to the platform, offering up their own recipes to be added to the platform, which are recreated and fully tested by the team of development chefs at Gastronomixs before being uploaded.

The component list currently stands at around 5000 and is growing daily.

To keep the platform in your pocket, you can install the Gastronomixs web app which serves as a shortcut to the platform on your mobile phone. If you have an Android phone, you will automatically receive a pop-up notification for this. If you are using iOS, then click on the square from which a small arrow is pointing upwards. Then select ‘add to home screen’.

Jump forward to 2020 and Gastronomixs is

3 FERMENTING COMPONENTS

the fastest growing platform for professional chefs. Job done, right?

Not at all. During 2020, Jeroen and Inge took significant investment into the company to rebrand, and relaunch the platform. There are even more functions, even more tried and tested components. This revolutionary platform is reaching new heights. We can’t give too much away pre-launch, but you will not want to miss this.

The official launch, where you will be able to try out the new platform for yourselves will be in the midst of June 2021. Make sure you keep an eye on Gastronomixs’ social media to be the first to know the exact date!

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Gastronomixs is the best online idea generator for chefs. It’s rare us cooks have time to read through books nowadays. To be able to have access to professional chefs’ recipes that have taken years of work, is in my eyes, very fortunate.”

Component by Ben Murphy Striped Pasta

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GASTRONOMIXS

GASTRONOMIXS IS AN ONLINE IDEA GENERATOR. BUT WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? Gastronomixs is the brainstorm partner that’s always available. It’s a digital platform that allows you to browse through thousands of professional tried and tested recipes, save an entirely new recipe or learn more about certain cooking techniques. The platform simplifies your creative process by looking at ‘components’.

A component is a basic preparation method that revolves around one single ingredient. You could think of components as being LEGO® bricks. They give you the ultimate freedom to create new dishes or adjust existing ones.

For example, you enter the ingredient ‘tomato’ on the platform. Your results will show all the

techniques that work with tomato, so think jelly, compote, sorbet, crisp, powder etc.

One quick search on a familiar ingredient you commonly use can introduce you to applications of that ingredients that you had not previously considered.

Basic recipes that have been tried and tested in the development kitchens in The Netherlands are also available to access. Stocks, sauces, dressings and soups for example. Knowledge articles on e.g. techniques are available to view.

Fermentation, sous-vide, drying, and siphon are among them. Because as a chef, you never stop learning and improving your skills, right?!

Familiar names have come forward as ambassadors. Ben Murphy for the UK and JP McMahon for Ireland. They both share 30 so called components, which are partly recipes mostly revolving around one single ingredient or technique. With thousands of these ‘building blocks’, members of Gastronomixs can create their own dishes in an instant.

The ambassadors will also give online demonstrations and share their components across social media to celebrate the launch.

The days of scribbling down ideas on bill pads, scraps of paper or on the back of used menus is long over. You too can test Gastronomixs for yourself without any obligation. Simply visit the website, register and get 2 weeks of access for free. And look out across social media for live events with some of our best known faces.

Component by Ben Murphy Celery glazed lobster tail

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GRAB YOUR GRAINS WITH RISO GALLO Riso Gallo launch their Chefs Collective A proud Italian family firm, Riso Gallo is now in the 6th generation of the same family and has long been at the forefront of the UK rice market. Their commitment to innovation, sustainability, the support offered to young chefs, to industry development and their extensive product base make Gallo the 'go-to’ range for professional Chefs and home cooks alike. Riso Gallo is the first international brand in the sector to have undertaken the production of rice from Sustainable agriculture, making their premium best-selling risotto rices, Gallo Arborio and Carnaroli, fully Sustainable, and in packaging suitable for Recycling.

Like many other companies during the pandemic Gallo has put a lot of thought into

how best to support the public and the industry as a whole over the last year. With regular donations to food banks, product packs into schools and colleges for festivals and cook-a-longs and various on-line initiatives and competitions, the company has certainly played its’ part in keeping things ticking over.

With the long awaited 'Return to the Pass' now in full swing, Gallo continues to help and inspire the professional chef with a rice range specifically created for this fastmoving foodservice environment. Taking into account the specific requirements of the UK market, which sadly doesn’t lend itself well to the sunny al-fresco dining experience, development and collaboration is well in hand

James Larkins

Jamie Gibbs

Greg Emmerson

Gibbs from Absolute Taste, Greg Emmerson, restaurateur and recent MasterChef semifinalist, James Larkins from Compass and Graeme Watson, Foodservice professional and Vice Chair of MasterChefs GB have, as you can see, put their heart and soul into creating some wonderful food.

Collective concept, expanding the Gallo Family by engaging with fantastic Chefs who have chosen to work alongside the company to develop and correctly position the Foodservice brand.

Starting with an elite team of 18, all hugely experienced and with a real understanding of the professional kitchen, the enthusiasm and willingness of these Chefs to push boundaries and create great recipes under the ‘Grab your Grains’ initiative is second to none.

Graeme Watson

to invent exciting rice dishes, both mains and sides, which are quick and easy to prepare and ideally suited to the busy pass. Have a look at our #beyondrisotto theme running through the summer on Instagram.

The company has worked with professional Chefs around the world for many years, sharing expertise and development ideas.

Taking things one step further, Gallo is thrilled to now officially launch its UK Chefs

Jamie’s Gallo Rustico Poke Bowl, with hot smoked trout and fermented chilli dressing, James’ curried grain risotto with harissa chicken salad, puffed grains, pomegranite seeds, baby rocket, apricot puree & coriander dressing, Graeme’s seafood dish of Indian Ocean Prawn grilled with Miso, Lime and Ginger Butter served with Red Rice with a soy ginger dressing and Greg’s Arroz negra with smoked garlic, globe artichokes, roasted red peppers and shallots sound amazing and look incredible.

Here’s who is involved, https://www. risogallo.co.uk/food-solutions-riso-gallo/, and to give just a taste of what will soon be available for you to create via the website the company tasked four exemplary Chefs to put their "thinking toques" on and create a dish, based around rice salads and light, fresh risotto, suitable for the English summer.

Jason Morrison, MD of Gallo UK Ltd commented “The Chef’s Collective has arrived at a time when it is critical that the Hospitality industry is given as much support as possible, and it allows us to showcase the talents of so many UK based chefs. A heartfelt thanks from the Riso Gallo family in the UK and Italy, and the generations of families that have worked in the rice mill in Robbio who really do enjoying reading about the fruits of their labour”.

Whilst struggling to remember what it’s like to eat outside in the sunshine with a glass of vino and making no mention of the need for umbrellas and windbreaks Chefs Jamie

A great start to a fantastic new initiative, and Gallo will be adding more to their website, and to their stand at our own magazine Virtual Restaurant Show on a regular basis.

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Words Denis Sheehan H & C News Camera Jim Pietryga

Restaurant

T H E D E F I N I T I O N O F H O S P I TA L I T Y – N O U N – T H E F R I E N D LY A N D G E N E R O U S R E C E P T I O N A N D E N T E R TA I N M E N T O F G U E S T S , V I S I T O R S A N D S T R A N G E R S . D E L I V E R Y O F S U C H B E I N G T O TA L LY DEPENDENT UPON SKILLED PEOPLE. 90

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Most restaurants have a foundation of regular customers that return frequently as a consequence of being served a good hospitality experience. Please note, the word served precedes hospitality.

Service by the person that greets them on entry, people that take their orders, serve their food and drinks, and make sure their visit is enjoyable.

The real art of ‘service’ is in not being ‘servile’. No one wants a cap doffed, being warmly welcomed and feeling you are in the hands of someone confident in what they are doing is more than sufficient. It reassures diners they have made the right choice.

This can only be delivered through experienced people that have served their time in acquiring the skills necessary to deliver such a feeling.

Most of the best restaurants I have enjoyed frequenting have won my loyalty through service. I expect good food whenever I pay to dine out, but the wider overall experience is what counts most, and front of house is where that experience comes from. I suspect it is for most people too, whether they choose to admit it or not.

In England, working front of house in a restaurant is not a career of choice for most young people.

Rather than trying to address why restaurants and the wider hospitality industry do not attract more English people to work in them, we have a more pressing problem. All too many people that enjoy working front of house and are good at it have been forced to leave the country. Brexit has resulted in a front of house exodus from the UK, creating a vacuum that is becoming more and more evident by the day.

At this point I would normally wheel out a few reference resources to validate the statements above, there clearly is no need to, as the people and skills shortages being experienced right now as reopening begins are all too evident.

Brexit saw an absolute minimum of 355,000 people classified by the government as non UK nationals, who worked in hospitality pre Brexit, leave the UK in the past 12 months.

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As hospitality reopens, there is zero chance of replacing these ‘experienced’ and ‘skilled’ people with UK nationals in the weeks and months ahead, zero, zilch, nil. It cannot be done.

So, an industry already decimated, must now attempt to resurrect itself with one hand tied behind its back. And on top of that add extra capacity to facilitate a boom in staycations.

Not dissimilar to the lack of reference resources in the early part of this ‘rant’, explanations of the statement immediately above do not need any qualifications, they are facts.

The one and only way to have a chance of recovery is by welcoming back the real restaurant rock stars, the front of house team that unwillingly were forced to leave.

I have set up a petition to Parliament asking: “The Government should ease immigration restrictions on EU nationals and other migrant workers with experience of working in the UK hospitality industry, at least temporarily, immediately. This could be achieved by creating a new hospitality visa, or exempting non-UK nationals with relevant experience from immigration requirements.”

My request is a simple one that will only take a few minutes of your time, please sign the petition.

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Words Claire Bosi

A conversation that could go on for hours N O W, I A M N O T S AY I N G T H AT I D O N ’ T G E T A T H R I L L OUT OF INTERVIEWING OTHERS, NOR DO I NEVER G E T E X C I T E D A B O U T TA L K I N G H O S P I TA L I T Y W I T H I N D U S T R Y P E E R S , B U T T H I S H O U R L O N G C H AT I W A S R E A L LY L O O K I N G F O R W A R D T O , A N D W E C O U L D H AV E S P O K E N F O R A N E N T I R E A F T E R N O O N O N T H I S S U B J E C T. F R O N T O F H O U S E .

Those three words. Front of house. Emphasis on the Front. Who is U2 without Bono?

Slipknot without Corey? The Foo Fighters without Dave Grohl? For sure, the musicians are super talented, but every great act, needs a great person up Front. Hospitality is no exception.

And my interviewee was the Frontman for Le Gavroche for decades. Silvano Giraldin. A man who has been working at the very top of his profession for over 40 years. There is nothing Silvano does not know about service. He was born for this role. But he put the work in too.

I reached out to Silvano for several reasons.

As someone who, herself, spent many years 94

in front of house, the notion that we are not engaging young people into the profession dumbfounds me. I know first-hand just how brilliant a career choice it can be. I wanted a soundboard as to why we are in this predicament, and Silvano was eager to help; “Firstly, let's look at the recent decades. The front of house has been neglected for many years. In modern times, it is seen as cool to be a chef, a bit edgy and possible to get a rockstar status. This has not yet happened in the front. Yet. Restaurant reviewers and food writers are a clear example of this. When they review a restaurant, the service is hardly ever highlighted – unless it is bad. Front of house

are never celebrated. Yet they are critical to the overall experience; it is an oversight by almost all reviewers. It is rare to read a review that mentions the service staff.

And so, a message gets sent out to the readers that it's all about the chef. That he, or she is responsible for the entirety of your experience. And that is far from true.

commonly used for lower classes. For some, they consider the job to be lowly. That, Silvano adds, couldn’t be further from the truth. He also believes that many parents would accept their child wishing to become a chef, but would question their choice to train as a front of house professional. So, what on earth do we do, and how can we change things for the better?

Chefs are hugely talented. Of course, they are. But a successful restaurant must have a dynamic, committed and professional service team. It’s a partnership”

“First of all, we need to pay. Proper wages for a proper job. To facilitate that, either menu prices go up, or the government address the VAT on food and allows some liquidity on the books to pay attractive salaries. Restaurants run on very tight margins.

Silvano believes there is also mentally - a class barrier. Service, to be ‘Servile”. The word Servile is derived from the Latin ‘Servus’ - a word once

Next, the industry must lead the way in

promoting a positive reflection of itself. Let’s celebrate our front of house staff, without them you would not have a great restaurant or hotel. Let's encourage young people look at the profession and decide they want to be a part of it too. Make our working environments inspirational, commit to developing staff members, invest in them Thirdly, the UK Government must begin to recognise our profession, as happens in France or Italy. You just get the feeling here that the profession is not valued by government. It’s taken for granted, underappreciated. And when a career choice is not valued as a profession by those in charge, it will not be valued as a profession by the population” At this point in the conversation, I am practically hypnotised by Silvano's words. Here is an industry legend I have admired for years. An icon – known, trusted and respected by the international hospitality profession. And his words echo my own thoughts; 95

“I have loved every single moment of my career, without question. I do not believe there is any other profession like ours [front of house]. The opportunities are endless, career progression for the right candidates is there.

There are already significant salaries in certain establishments. You just have to dedicate yourself to doing the best you can. The feeling of job satisfaction is fantastic. Watching diners leave after a wonderful evening, knowing you were part of that or delivering the service to a table during a really important business deal, knowing that the successful outcome was partly down to the environment of that meeting. There is no job like it.

Young people coming in to the front of house profession must be aware that they, too, have to invest in their career. By that I mean, don’t expect to leap from Commis de Salle to Maitre’d too quickly. You could be at that level by the time you are 25/27 years old. The 96

ANOTHER CHAT presentation of his team. I was keen to find out what his thoughts on this were.

Have we been overlooking people based on appearance?

After we finished our conversation for the piece, I asked Silvano for his thoughts on a conundrum that my daughter, 15, had left me with a few days prior.

To put you in the picture. She was starting a part time job at her uncle's pub, in the front of house. Two days before she started, I noticed she had painted a henna tattoo on her hand and I recoiled as I knew Cedric, her boss/ uncle would not be impressed. When I mentioned this, she was bemused. “If I am clean and well presented, working hard and doing a job well, what should it matter how my personal appearance is” - it was inconceivable to her and her friends that an employer of any kind could question personal appearance.

That statement, from a new generation really made me think. I know that I am guilty in the past of recruiting people who I thought fitted the image of Hibiscus. I also know that I have not given opportunities to people because they didn’t ‘fit’.

Silvano is renowned for his levels of detail during his career, including the

time you put into your profession before that, though, is an investment. You are investing in your progression. You are always learning Great front of house skills develop over a number of years. It is an incredibly highly skilled profession. The practical part of the job is easy to learn, but there is so much more to it than that. You have to learn to study your diners, to recognise mannerisms, to listen for cues. You need to know when a table doesn’t wish to be disturbed, and when a table is craving attention. You are reading body language and social interactions” Moving within a team is also a skill that takes time. After a while, you can communicate at times by just using eye contact. The tenacity to ‘turn a table around’ - to put at ease a less-than-happy table can only be learnt from experience, from shadowing your superiors or mentors and learning from them.

“To be a great professional in the front, you have to like socialising, you need to be confident and happy around people. You must stay committed to the profession, and concentrate on your career. Because great things can happen for those who are determined” And let’s not forget that the front of house deal with many variables, in comparison to the kitchen. In the kitchen, the variables are things such as a brigade member underperforming or absent, a piece of equipment failing, sudden dietaries. In the front, the variables are every single guest who arrives – are they stressed because they are late, have a couple had an argument, have they had a drink before arriving, have they ignored timings and rocked up when they want? Where the kitchen is pretty much in control of things that can occur – it certainly is not the same in the front. And then there is the kitchen/front relationship.

“Your daughter has made an excellent point. She is right, we (the profession) probably have overlooked people because they did not fit an image, especially at Michelin level, and we have to start to reconsider things like this.

Front of house should be well presented. Clean, hygienic, smart. After that, do we, or should we, have any input on the colour of hair, or whether they have a tattoo? I think times have changed and we should be looking toward the personality and skills of that person, and not distracted by minor personal details.

Without question, in days gone by front of house had very strict rules on things like this. In particular at the super-top levels. As new generations become the employers and employees of the future, I think there will be a reconsideration. Hospitality is about people, and we should celebrate everyone”

Both must work as one team, and respect between both is essential.

As we wrap up the conversation, Silvano points out that everything we must do for our industry will not address the current 2021 situation. We do not have enough skilled professionals, post Brexit and post Covid to fill vacancies across the UK. Much of our EU workforce has gone. For businesses to bounce back and recover, they need staff; “The government need to help our industry.

A relaxation of immigration rules, even if only temporary, is needed. Until we have engaged and trained new talent, we will need our EU counterparts to be able to come and work in the UK, without heavy fees and long paperwork. At present, only someone at Maitre d level would be allowed to come, below that, it is considered low skilled’.

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is where the heart is 100

PA R M A H A M I S A P R O T E C T E D D E S I G N AT I O N O F O R I G I N ( P D O ) P R O D U C T A N D I S 1 0 0 % N AT U R A L . T H E D R Y I N G P R O C E S S T H AT PA R M A H A M G O E S T H R O U G H C R E AT E S A H A M T H AT I S V E R Y L O W I N FAT C O N T E N T, W I T H M A N Y M I N E R A L S A LT S , V I TA M I N S , A N T I O X I D A N T S A N D E A S I LY D I G E S T I B L E P R O T E I N S . T H I S M E A N S T H AT PA R M A H A M I S T R U LY A F O O D F O R E V E R Y O N E .

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Prosciutto di Parma is produced in the hills surrounding the Italian town of Parma.

The unique taste of Parma Ham is dependent on the traditional production process passed down from Roman times, carefully controlled by the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma.

Only hams that have passed stringent curing regulations approved by the EU can be awarded the stamp of the Ducal crown – a five pointed coronet logo with PARMA in the centre which is branded onto the ham’s skin. The Ducal Crown is now a certification trademark.

The use of nitrates, nitrites, and other preservatives in food products (particularly in charcuterie) is currently at the centre of a heated debate following the World Health Organisation (WHO)’s revelation that they are carcinogenic to humans. Creating a rosy 102

PARMA HAM

appearance for products that would otherwise be naturally grey in colour, nitrites are thought to lure consumers in with their aesthetics, therefore remaining a popular tool for many food brands despite the overwhelming evidence of their harmful effects.

However, they are simply not necessary in creating a delicious product, and Parma Ham is a perfect example. Parma Ham is 100% natural, made with only two ingredients: pork and sea salt. During the production process, the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma does not allow any colouring agents or preservatives – such as nitrites or nitrates— to be added, unlike many other meat-based products.

Due to Parma Ham’s naturalness and its high nutritional value, it is an excellent choice for children, athletes, and the elderly, as well as those who find it difficult to digest proteins.

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Key nutritional values: •

•

•

A distinctive characteristic of Parma Ham is its high protein content. After the protein is broken down by the digestive system into amino acids, they are reassembled to form muscles, connective tissues, and other essential components such as enzymes and antibodies.

More than 20% of the total amount of protein in Parma Ham consists of free amino acids, which gives it a very high overall digestibility.

Parma Ham’s total lipid component is of good quality thanks to the high content of unsaturated fatty acids (64.9%) – the good fats that are good for health. One of these, oleic acid (45.8%),

In addition to its nutritional qualities, Parma Ham has a full-bodied flavour and silky texture making it the best ingredient to pair with other natural foods.

•

•

is a monounsaturated fat that protects from cardiovascular pathologies.

Eating Parma Ham helps achieve the recommended daily amounts of group B vitamins and provides a good amount of precious minerals that are highly bioavailable, meaning they are easy for the body to absorb, such as iron.

Parma Ham proves to be an excellent food that helps to combat and inhibit the action of free radicals – the main cause of ageing and degenerative diseases – and to restore the physiological balance of the body, thanks to the presence of natural antioxidants such as vitamin E and selenium.

Parma Ham goes very well with many Italian cheeses, in particular Parmigiano Reggiano, Gorgonzola and Mozzarella. Their saltiness perfectly balance each other.

Parma Ham deliciously pairs with many fruits, including grapes, apples and melon. These types of fruit bring out the natural sweetness of Parma Ham, created during the long curing process.

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# AlaskaSeafoodUni

NOW LIVE

THE ALASKA WAY

THE FISH

S E C T I O N

HOOKED

ON THE NATIONS FAVOURITE DISH

SEAFOOD FROM NORWAY CELEBRATE WITH FISH AND CHIP LOVERS AROUND THE UK

O N F R I D AY 4 T H J U N E 2 0 2 1 , F I S H A N D C H I P S H O P O W N E R S , T E A M S A N D E N T H U S I A S T S C E L E B R AT E D T H E N AT I O N A L D AY O F O U R M U C H - L O V E D D I S H .

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As for everyone, 2020 was a worrying time for our fish and chip shop industry. Many closed their doors, concerned for the welfare of their employees and their customers.

Some operators were quick to support our front-line workers with meals, expressing generosity and solidarity.

True to form however, operators quickly began remodelling their business. Whether this was

reduced opening hours, strict social distancing, home deliveries, or scheduled pick-up times, our Fish and Chip shops across the UK turned their fryers back on and once more delivered the service our nation loves and respects. It seems that, during the Covid pandemic, more and more people turned to Fish and Chips as a treat they could enjoy, to soften the harsh blows of reality. Fish and Chips is comfort.

Recognisable, enjoyable, tasty comfort.

It is speculated that fish and chips first appeared in the UK around the 1860’s. Its popularity was so great that by 1910, there were 25,000 fish and chip shops dotted around Britain. One of the only foods to be free from rationing during both World Wars, the British government took steps to safeguard the supply. It was the considered opinion, by those in power, that the meal kept the British people fuelled and in good spirits. To date, Fish and Chips remains 109

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one of our most loved takeaway options, and something sought out by international visitors to the UK as a Great British experience. Fish and Chips is also a staple dish on most pub menus, and a take on the dish can often be found within fine dining establishments.

To celebrate the day, global interpretations and modern twists on this classic dish were sought from leading chefs both at home and internationally, and produced into a stunning 84-page publication to be delivered to Fish and Chip shops around the UK.

From Simon Hulstone’s modern twist on the dish, to John Molnars awards-winning classic recipe through to Judy Joo’s Korean twist, Chef Jomon Kuriakose’s recipe with an Indian influence, legendary Greek chef Akis Petretzikis with his Bakaliaros Skordalia and an elegant New York inspired recipe from 2 Michelin starred Paul Liebrandt just among a few of the dishes. The emphasis on the publication was to offer operators some alternatives they may wish to try, in particular with batters, or condiments and to highlight just how important this dish is to many.

The publication also celebrated the history of this dish and took a deeper look into the traditional condiments that we have come to expect with our fish suppers over the years.

With forewords from Hans Frode Kielland Asmyhr, UK director of the Norwegian Seafood Council and Andrew Crook, president of the National federation of Fish Fryers, Hooked landed in the nets of thousands of Fish and Chip operators across the UK, in time for them to celebrate their National Day! 111

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0-2020 97

YEARS OF FROZEN FRUIT PURÉES

THE PASTRY bought to you by

S E C T I O N

PASTRY CHEF Words and Camera MSK Ingredients

Vicky ENDERSEN

MANY OF YOU WILL KNOW VICKY ENDERSEN. AS DEVELOPMENT CHEF FOR MSK INGREDIENTS, VICKY HAS HELD MASTERCLASSES WITHIN THE CHESTERFIELD HOME OF MSK, BEEN OUT AND ABOUT INTO KITCHENS AROUND THE UK TO DEMONSTRATE TECHNIQUES AND METHODS, IS A HUGE SUPPOR TER OF OUR CULINARY SCHOOLS AND A REGULAR JUDGE FOR COMPETITIONS. 114

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But who exactly is Vicky Endersen? And, though we know her from MSK ingredients, just how did she get there and how has she become one of the most respected figures in pastry in the UK? Originally from Bray, a small coastal town in North County Wicklow, Ireland and about 20km south of Dublin, Vicky studied tourism at College Killybegs after finishing at St Kilians Community school.

“I always knew that I was going to be a pastry chef. Right from childhood I was in the kitchen baking, making desserts and cakes and selling them to my mother's friends. There was never any hesitancy, this was always what I wanted to do” There wasn’t a family connection to professional cooking. No ‘cooking with Grandma’ story.

Though Vicky mentions her mum was a good cook, but a very busy parent with a full-time job.

It wasn’t childhood memories behind the career choice. It was just in her soul, a ‘calling’.

Fiercely independent, Vicky left home at 17 to study at the college, and fulfilled many work placements across Ireland throughout her time there. Post-graduation, Vicky and her friend embarked on an adventurous year of travelling.

An experience, Vicky mentions, that cemented her ambition and made her realise that she had the strength within her to hold her own in some of the UKs highest achieving kitchens; “When we went travelling, we saw many people who lived in awful situations and you then truly appreciate what you have, the opportunities that are on offer to us. We are so lucky to be in the UK” Returning to Ireland, Vicky joined the kitchens of Paul Rankins restaurant Roscoff. At that time, Paul was the only Michelin starred chef in Northern Ireland;

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style of food wasn’t where I wanted to be, so I was there only a short while’ A call came from Aiden Byrne. After finishing up at Roscoff, he had moved to work with Conrad Gallagher in Dublin. Encouraging Vicky to leave Scotland and come to Peacock Alley in Dublin, Vicky joined the kitchens; “I worked for Conrad and, to be honest, it was a nightmare! The bills didn’t get paid; the staff didn’t get paid. We would have a whip round to buy ingredients first thing in the morning – it was just not sustainable. At the end of 1999, I said I was leaving and told Aiden I was going back to Paul Rankin. Aiden was quite firm ‘whatever you do, you never go back’ were his words!

Aiden went out and bought a copy of the Caterer, brought it to me, pointed at a job and said ‘that’s where you're going’. Decision made” So, within a couple of weeks, Vicky found herself on a flight to England and into the kitchens of the 2 Michelin starred John Burton-Race; “I loved JBR. I went in as a CdP at L’Ortlolan for a few months. Then we closed and opened The Landmark in London” I ask Vicky how Burton-Race ran his kitchens; “Like a mad-man!" she laughs “The kitchens were stressful. There would be mayhem in the kitchen, and of course my area [pastry] was away from the main hub. John would look over, wink and laugh. He knew he was creating havoc on a busy Saturday night for shits and giggles! He used to call the pastry the ‘Dragon's lair’. He would say ‘don’t go to the Dragons lair, Grotbags (me) is in there. In fact, when I left, he gave me a book and signed it ‘to Grotbags’. I loved working with him”

“The Roux brothers had always been my idols, in particular Michel Roux Sr – an incredible man. Paul had worked with them, so his kitchen was my first port of call. Paul was a fabulous chef to work with, a big personality.

Working with him was fun, busy and full on, but he was the catalyst for me. Working at Roscoff only fuelled my ambition. I was there for 3 years and towards the end Aiden Byrne came to work as head chef, another great friend who has supported me throughout.

During my time with JBR, I met Dan, my husband, who was working in the main kitchen. After a while, we decided to head back to L’Ortolan together. This time Alan Murchison was heading up the kitchens

After a while, I moved to Nick Nairn, in Scotland.

Honestly, it wasn’t the best decision I made. The

A little wanderlust then follows the time spent with Murchison. Vicky and Dan packed their

PASTRY CHEF VICKY ENDERSEN

L’Ortolan under Alan, was a completely different beast. Such a busy place. We earned a Michelin star, but we had a lot of fun doing it. We had a great team. Alan remains a great friend to this day”

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bags and took a year out, travelling around Australia. Soaking up new experiences, looking at different cuisines. When the 12 months were up, the pair returned to the UK and hooked up with a friend who had been PA to Burton Race at the Landmark, Emily Manson. The couple returned from Australia and pitched up at Emily's who alerted them to opportunities within the kitchens of Tom Aikens in his Elystan Street Flagship. I ask how the experience was with Tom, and as happens with most chefs who I ask this question of, she erupts into laughter;

menus together and I could have input into the dishes. Obviously, it had to be in Tom’s style, we couldn’t deviate from that – but he was always up for a conversation and suggestions”

be. But, a few weeks later, I was on my way to Chesterfield. The role was created for me.

Neither of us knew what the job actually was!

That was 2006”

A sliding door moment then happened. Vicky and Dan had decided to leave Aikens, it was time to move on. Chatting on their walk back home one night after service Dan asked Vicky what she would like to do next for her career.

“I would love to work with a company like MSK, was her answer”

“Don't get me wrong, it was really hard work.

All-consuming life. But it was bloody good at the same time. I learnt a lot about how not to do things. After working with Alan, who could get the best out of people by being nice, it was interesting to see how you could get the best from people by layering stress.

The following morning, Vicky was on the phone to Kevin Bateman, MD of MSK to place orders.

Vicky had already a strong relationship with the company, and Bateman had often sent her products to test. When she told Bateman she was moving on from Aikens, but didn’t know where to, he instantly invited her to join the team at MSK;

MSK was a very small business back then, there were just 4 of us. We didn’t really have a huge portfolio; it was mostly flavourings. But the timings were aligned. Vicky joined at the time when there was a Molecular surge in the profession. With chefs such as Heston Blumenthal leading the way in the UK, it was only a matter of time before other chefs became curious and wanted to experiment for themselves with some of the ingredients and techniques”

But, even now I have a lot of time for Tom, we chat regularly. The whole experience was intense, 25 kinds of petit-fours, 15 different types of bread. I was Pastry chef by then, we would write the daily

“After the conversation with Dan the previous evening, my body literally went cold, I had goosebumps. I never expected the offer, because I didn’t really know what the job could, or should

PASTRY CHEF VICKY ENDERSEN

Chefs wanted the information and the guidance. The information was out there, but in a format that is quite inaccessible, very scientific and complicated. Vicky acted as a conduit, reading the science papers and translating them into culinary practice, all backed up with a culinary career. The position was formed and forged, it allowed the bridge to be gapped between science and gastronomy.

MSK are successful at identifying problems and then identifying solutions. It doesn’t matter whether you wish to make something fully vegan, without loss of flavour, or whether your jelly isn't setting – Vicky and the team will deliver you a solution that is easily understandable in culinary terms.

15 years later, MSK has a portfolio of ingredients that is unrivalled in the UK and a team working within it that are backed up with professional experience. Chef Rupert Rowley joined Vicky a couple of years back and the duo are now pretty much unstoppable with development. A state-of-the-art kitchen was also installed in 2011 hosting masterclasses and testing products. MSK realised chefs wanted the opportunity to come in to the hub of MSK, see things being put into practice and spend a day with the team. They wanted to see, to feel textures, to understand.

Pre-Covid, Vicky also invested her time vising suppliers of the company. She believes that you don’t really know a product until you understand

its origins and meet the people who put the love into that product. Though 2020 put a stop to that, once restrictions life, both Vicky and Rupert will be heading out to see them once again.

Training future generations is also at the heart of MSK. They are present within several colleges already, supporting culinary students with tutorials and product; “Every chef, no matter which discipline of the profession they enter, whether Michelin level, public sector catering or development role need to understand the fundamentals of the science behind food. Why does an egg behave a certain way when you apply heat, what happens to the protein, to the albumen? Because you can learn that information and translate it into your own creations. When you understand what happens to an egg in cake batter, you can create a proper vegan alternative”

Both Vicky and Rupert have been studying vegan alternatives during Covid and are now leaders in vegan friendly solutions.

Much time was spent buying, cooking and researching supermarket vegan products.

Identifying the relevant ingredients used, and looking to those ingredients with professional foodservice in mind.

We finish our chat with some laughs about accessibility. Most chefs working with Vicky have her mobile phone number and are quick to call – at any time of the day – to ‘have a chat’. Her phone is the hub of MSK, and Vicky loves the fact that chefs call her to discuss ideas; “It’s what we do, we are like a member of your brigade, I feel like I am an extra team member of thousands of kitchens around the country, but I wouldn’t have it any other way!”

On the 14th and 21st June, Wellocks and MSK team up at the Chesterfield kitchens, to deliver exclusive classes to chefs. The places are very limited. To register your interest dm @wellocksfood or Leigh Myers on @chefleigh2020 119

Merry Berry

B R U C E FA R M S I S A F O U R T H G E N E R AT I O N FA M I LY FA R M B A S E D IN PERTHSHIRE, IN THE HEART OF SCOTLAND. THE REGIONS L U S H FA R M L A N D P R O V I D E S PERFECT GROWING CONDITIONS FOR PRODUCING SOFT FRUIT (STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES, B L A C K C U R R A N T S ) A N D P O TAT O E S , PEAS, BEANS AND CEREALS.

All Strawberries and Raspberries are picked and packed on site in the BRC A++ accredited Packing Hall, Peas and Beans are sent to the farms freezing factory for processing and storage – again it is BRC accredited.

Geoffrey Bruce has been growing fruit since 1996.

In the beginning all growing all of Strawberries and Raspberries was in the fields, but over the past 5 years have moved out of the soil and into Table top production for Strawberries and Pot grown for Raspberries. Strawberries are produced from May – end of September and Raspberries from June – Mid September.

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With a loyal and strong workforce of 40 full-time staff and up to 280 seasonal staff. Bruce Farm grow a range of different varieties through the season so they are able to maintain their brix levels (sugar content) through the whole season and can always supply the sweetest fruit.

We choose what to Supply to Wellocks on the day of picking and supply. We pick the sweetest on that day. This is then taken straight back to the packing hall where is goes through a rapid chill to bring the fruit temperature down which then helps maintain its brix level.

Bruce Farms pick and pack for Wellocks on the same day, so the fruit is at its freshest.

To satisfy the discerning requirements of chefs, the fruit picked for Wellocks is a 28mm size (to compare; the ‘usual’ size in a supermarket would be 25mm). For customers of Wellocks, the fruit size is larger and a tighter spec.

To cut down on plastic packaging, and maintaining an environmental conscience, all Bruce Farms packing is fully compostable punnet and the Plastic film and Label both recyclables.

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The Estate Dairy

Pastry Butter The Estate Dairy Cultured Butter is churned on their Farm in the heart of the Cheshire Countryside. Produced with their own double cream it’s one of the richest tasting butters on the market. The Estate Dairy churn all of their Butter on a Roversi Butter churn and use a bespoke Lactobacillus culture which yields a rich flavourful Cultured Butter.

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PA S T R Y B U T T E R H A S A E U R O P E A N FAT CONTENT WHICH IS N O R M A L LY A R O U N D THE 82-84% MARK.

With a 4-day culturing and ageing process, the results are a beautifully unique product which is then shaped in logs and wrapped by hand.

The Estate Dairy are one of the few British producers of 1kg Cultured Unsalted Plaques for Pastry & Viennoiserie production. The product is a favourite among the UK’s leading bakeries and patisseries.

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THE SOMMELIER

DIARIES

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THE SOMMELIER DIARIES Words by Jean Smullen

An Australian in

Alentejo

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PORTUGAL HAS M O R E T H A N T W E LV E DIFFERENT WINE REGIONS, INCLUDING THE ISLAND OF MADEIRA WITH A P P R O X I M AT E LY 5 0 DO’S WITHIN THOSE REGIONS. ALL PRODUCE WINES WITH LOCAL GRAPE VA R I E T I E S A N D A L L H AV E S O M E T H I N G DIFFERENT TO OFFER 127

Portugal’s two main strengths are the diversity of its climatic regions and the wealth of native grape varieties. Portugal occupies approximately one seventh of the Iberian Peninsula. It is rectangular in shape, roughly 600 km from north to south and 200 km from west to east. The coastal wine regions are strongly influenced by the Atlantic, the moderating effect of which diminishes the further inland you move. As a result, you will find light fresh flavoured dry white wines produced in close proximity to full bodied reds and rich fortified wines. Add the unique and varied native grape varieties only found in Portugal and you can understand why this small country has had so much success selling its wines in recent years. From the wild berry fruit characters of Touriga Nacional, Baga and Castelão to the distinctive whites made from 128

THE SOMMELIER DIARIES

the spicy Fernão Pires, the delicate Loureiro or the floral scented Rupeiro, Portuguese wines these days, are very much in demand.

Portugal joined the EU in 1986 which has had a significant impact on the development of its wine industry. Loans and grants for improving vineyards and wineries became readily available and this has been of great help in rebuilding small estates and large co-operatives.

In the last thirty years, the Portuguese wine industry has been transformed. Distinctive regional styles have evolved and Portuguese wines now have a much stronger global identity, based on their regional styles and native grapes. What many don’t realise is that Portugal has been demarcating its wine

regions since the thirteenth century and have had a quality control system in place for almost 200 years, long before the French came up with their Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée system in the 1930’s.

Into the development mix you can add winemakers like Australian David Baverstock who has been making wine in Portugal’s Alentejo region for nearly 30 years. Originally from Adelaide, he grew up in the Barossa Valley where he completed his oenological studies. Having started his career in Australia he decided to expand his knowledge by working in Europe. This took him first to France where he worked a vintage in Morgon in 1982 with Marcel Lapierre, who pioneered the natural wine movement in the 1970’s.

Lapierre was influenced by Jules Chauvet,

known today as the father of the French natural wine movement. Chauvet who wasn’t known outside France died in 1989, was a rare combination of winemaker and scientist, he didn't just argue for natural wine, he explained exactly how to make it and today his text books are still extensively used. After working with Lapierre in Beaujolais, David moved to Portugal where he has remained ever since. Portugal is now his home, his Portuguese wife Netta and their sons and grandsons make that a given.

In 1992 David began working for the Roquette family who had started to financially invest in a wine Estate they had first purchased in the 1970’s. Herdade do Esporão located in Reguengos de Monsaraz had historical links 129

dating back to the 13th century. The winery was orginally purchased by José Roquette in 1973 but shortly after, thanks to political unrest, the family had to leave Portugal for Brazil and the estate was nationalised. By 1984 the estate had been returned to the Roquette family and today Herdade do Esporão is run by José Roquette ‘s son, João.

In the ensuing years the range of wines produced by Herdade do Esporão have achieved global success. Today Esporão is one of the largest producers of Estate wines in Portugal, selling over 15 million bottles per annum. Esporão is best known for its Monte Velho range, first launched in 1985, a volume red wine brand as well as the more premium Esporão Reserva range.

The winery is one of the largest in Portugal’s Alentejo region and David’s wine making talents have played a large part in creating this success.

In 1999 he was awarded Wine Maker of the Year in Portugal. Esporão was also recently voted into the Top 50 of the Most Admired Brands in the World by Drinks magazine.

Expansion by Esporão into other key Portuguese wine regions has resulted in the acquisition of two key properties, Quinta dos Murcas in the Douro region purchased in 2008 and one of the top Vinho Verde producers, Quinta do Ameal purchased in 2018. These wines are seen as a welcome addition to the company’s extensive wine portfolio.

The Alentejo is where Portugal’s climate finally escapes the Atlantic influence, and the scenery changes to large, gently undulating plains that experience baking hot summers and cold winters more typical of continental weather systems. Think of it as Portugal’s ‘new world’, with the potential to make extrovert, ripe wines with a taste of the sun about them. This is the least populated of Portugal’s regions, and instead of the smallholdings that typify the agricultural landscape elsewhere, the Alentejo has many large estates.

Traditional Portuguese grape varieties dominate in the region, demand for the regional wines with their ripe fruit and full-bodied character, has been such that vineyard land here is among the most expensive in the whole country.

Because many of the estates are fairly large and the climate is so reliable, economies of scale mean that Alentejo wines can combine quality with affordability, which is more of a challenge in Portugal’s more northerly regions.

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THE SOMMELIER DIARIES

The Alentejo region’s reputation is based on its red wines though the whites are also good especially those areas with cooler night-time temperatures. This is a large area running in a NW SE direction with limestone and schist soil.

I first paid a visit to Esporão on March 17th, 2000, on a study trip, with a group of WSET Diploma students. That day we were lucky enough to have David as our guide and I still remember the visit, because it certainly was not what we were expecting from a Portuguese winery. Esporão was enormously impressive, the towering stainless steel outdoor tanks, the modern high tech wine making equipment, a man-made lake created for water access; the investment was clearly evident as was the quality of the wine the Estate was producing. At the time those who had visited wineries in Australia noted how like a New World winery it was in terms of the production facilities. However, when it came to

tasting the wines, they had their own definitive Portuguese style, which I’m happy to say is still the case.

Since that first visit, I have met David many times, at wine fairs and events all over Europe. I did return to Esporão for another visit, a decade after my first and was still mightily impressed by what they were achieving. The most recent tasting I had of Esporão wines was, in these Covid lockdown times, on-line. David presented the Esporão range and was joined by Esporão’s area manager, Pedro Lopez. He talked extensively about the changes made in the most recent decade and mentioned his plans to transition to an educational role within the company in the coming years.

It would appear that since my last visit over a decade ago there has been a sea change in how the winery operates. All of the wines produced at Esporão are now certified 100% organic.

They have moved from fermenting in stainless steel to using cement tanks, in order to make more textual wines. Cement tanks ferment at higher temperatures and this makes the aromatic character of the native grapes more obvious. They have built a new modern winery with marble lagares to allow foot treading, as it gives a better tannin structure to their premium wines. They are using Amphora to make low intervention wines. There is a much stronger focus on blending the native grape varieties.

Climate change also means earlier and shorter harvests, and with grapes ripening much earlier, harvest is now taking place in August. This has also necessitated a rethink of the grapes they are planting and they are experimenting with a number of new varietals, 188 in all, planted in experimental vineyards that they are currently monitoring. They have come a long way in the last 21 years and the wines we tasted in April 2021 certainly reflect that.

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2019 Monte Velho Tinto Herdade de Esporão Vinho Regional This is Esporão’s bread and butter wine. The brand that put their name on the global wine map they produce four and a half million bottles of it annually. It offers a good example of the expression of the Alentejo style.

The fruit for this is sourced from local growers and it is a multi-varietal blend. Three quarters of the blend is barrel fermented and the rest is fermented in stainless steel. This is a good value for money wine showing Alentejo’s regional expression, lots of juicy summer berry fruit and just enough tannin to make it interesting.

Another versatile wine that will match with an enormous range of foods and will work for the restaurant customer because of its drinkability appeal.

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THE SOMMELIER DIARIES

2019 Bico Amarelo Vinho Verde

2018 Esporão Colheita Branco Organic

2018 Esporão Reserva

Vinho Verde is located in the North of Portugal between the River Minho in the North and the River Duero in the South. The region is damp and temperate with no mountains to shield it from the Atlantic, so it is therefore famous for its green mountains and valleys, with mild winters and warm pleasant summers. It is the largest demarcated region in Portugal. Vinho Verde is by its nature a low alcohol wine. Classic Vinho Verde is bone dry with crisp appley acidity.

This wine is 100% organic and is made from a blend of Antão Vaz, Alvarinho, Viosiner and Verdelho all grown in Alentejo. For a white wine made in a relatively hot climate it is very fresh. It was fermented in cement tanks and the resulting wine is enormously aromatic with honey suckle and floral notes, there is a wonderful aromatic hit from the nose of this wine. It has a lovely purity of fruit, with layers of exotic tropical fruit flavours balanced by a surprising freshness The alcohol is quite high but you don’t feel it. The higher ABV adds richness and texture to the wine. They use a very low amount of sulphur, which is part of the organic requirement. I loved the weight and the mouth feel of this wine. It is big enough to match with an enormous range of food styles, which makes it pefect for a restaurant list, because of it’s versatility.

A must stock.

This is Esporão’s premium red, and is made from a blend of Aragonês also known as Tempranillo or Tinta Roriz, which gives a nice fruit structure to the wine. It also contains Trincadeira, known for its tannin structure, Alicante Bouchet and Cabernet Sauvignon to add even more structure! It spends a year in French and American oak and is beautifully intense with black brambly fruit flavours and herbal notes. Lovely balance of tannin and fruit, this is a perfect expression of modern Portuguese wine making. With the potential to age well I recommend this served with the local regional cuisine. One of THE most addictive local foods is Migas (a dish made from leftover bread cooked in pork fat and garlic); this is heart attack on a plate. Esporão Reserva served with Migas and Porco Preto, the meat of indigenous pigs who roam wild in the region eating acorns, is an unbelievable culinary experience, one definitely not to be missed.

David told us this is the third vintage of Vinho Verde that they have made. This is a premium version made from Loureiro and Alvarinho a low yielding grape that produces aromatic crisp wines with peach notes and high acidity.

The wine was really creamy on the nose, but it had a wonderful texture on the palate. This was bone dry, with virtually no residual sugar.

The Loureiro (means Laurel or Bay Leaf) is quite an aromatic grape. This was a very elegant wine with fantastic acidity which make it perfect to match with oysters and shell fish.

Esporão is distributed in the UK by Enotria Tel: 0208 9614411 Website: www.enotriacoe.com E-mail: sales.operations@enotriacoe.com Esporão is distributed in Ireland by Febvre & Co contact Audrey Underwood aunderwood@febvre.ie 133

recipes and news Picota Cherry Tiramisú Picota Cherry and Feta Focaccia Apricot tart Tatin Syrha Leaves

By Franck Pontais Cherry and Apple salad with Comte cheese Syrha Leaves

By Franck Pontais

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Cherry “Madeleines” Jasmine Blossom

By Franck Pontais Pickled Apricot bruschetta with Roquefort cheese Dushi buttons, Floregano, Kaffir lime leaves, Anis blossom

By Franck Pontais Chocolate fondant Banana and passionfruit sorbet - Nougatine

By Chris McClurg,

PICOTA CHERRY TIRAMISÚ JUICY PICOTA CHERRIES GIVE A WONDERFUL TOUCH TO THIS INDULGENT ITALIAN DESSERT.

Serves 8 Preparation time: 25 minutes, plus chilling time Suitable for vegetarians

INGREDIENTS ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

200ml freshly-brewed strong coffee 6tbsp Marsala or Amaretto liqueur 3 eggs, separated 50g caster sugar 250g mascarpone or cream cheese 150ml double or whipping cream, 24 sponge fingers (boudoir biscuits) 200g Picota cherries, halved and pitted 2tsp cocoa powder

METHOD Mix the coffee and Marsala or Amaretto liqueur and leave until cold.

In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and caster sugar together until very pale, light and fluffy. Use a hand-held electric mixer for this, and whisk on full speed for 3-4 minutes. Add the mascarpone or cream cheese and whisk again for a few seconds.

In a large grease-free bowl and with scrupulously clean beaters, whisk the egg whites until they hold their shape (any trace of grease and they won’t whip). Fold into the cheese mixture. Whip the cream until it holds its shape, then fold this into the cheese mixture too.

One by one, dip half the sponge fingers into the coffee mixture, placing them over the base of a serving dish. Top with half the mascarpone mixture, leveling the surface.

Dip the remaining sponge fingers into the coffee mixture and arrange them in the serving dish in an even layer. Spoon the remaining mascarpone mixture over the top and level the surface. Cover and chill for 1-2 hours, or overnight.

Serve, sprinkled with the cherries and cocoa powder.

Cook’s tip: Raw eggs are used in this recipe, so make sure that they are very fresh. It’s advisable for the very young, pregnant mums or the elderly to avoid eating uncooked eggs. If you can’t eat raw eggs, you could replace them with 300ml of whipping cream, whipped until softly stiff, then folded into the mascarpone cheese. (Beat the sugar into the cheese first).

135

PICOTA CHERRY AND FETA FOCACCIA TRY THIS WONDERFUL YEAST-BAKE TO MAKE THE MOST OF DELICIOUS PICOTA CHERRIES.

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Serves 8 Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus approx. 1 hour 40 minutes rising time Cooking time: 25 minutes Suitable for vegetarians for an hour in a warm draught-free spot, covered with a clean tea towel.

INGREDIENTS ● 500g strong white bread flour Turn the dough out of the bowl and ● 1 sachet (7g) dried yeast knead gently for about 20 seconds. ● 1tsp salt Roll it out or stretch it out to fit a large ● 1tsp caster sugar rectangular baking tray or roasting tin. ● 2tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary Leave the dough to rise for about 30-40 ● 50ml extra virgin olive oil, plus a minutes in a warm draught-fee place, little extra for drizzling loosely ● 325ml tepid water covered with a tea towel. ● Plain white flour, for dusting Preheat the oven to 220°C/fan oven ● 150g Picota cherries, pitted 200°C/Gas mark 7. ● 150g feta cheese, cut into chunks When the dough has risen, gently use ● A few rosemary sprigs your fingertips to make indentations ● 2-3 pinches of sea salt over the surface and tuck in the cherries, feta METHOD cheese and rosemary sprigs.

Put the flour into a bowl and stir in the Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with yeast. Add the salt, sugar, chopped sea salt. Bake for 25-35 minutes or until rosemary, golden brown. oil and water and mix well with your Serve warm. hand. Bring the dough together to form a ball.

Tip the dough onto a floured surface and Cook’s tip: It’s wonderfully satisfying to make your own yeast-bakes, so plan knead it vigorously by pulling and ahead stretching it for at least 10 minutes. Put so that you have enough time in the the dough into a large well-oiled bowl kitchen. to rise .

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138

APRICOT TART TATIN SYRHA LEAVES

By Franck Pontais

To make a 6 to 8 portions tart.

INGREDIENTS ● ● ● ● ● ●

Syrha leaves ½ punnet Fresh Apricots 850gr Puff pastry 250gr Unsalted butter 40gr Caster sugar 100gr Water 100ml

METHOD Cut the butter into small piece and keep aside.

Cut all the apricot in half (remove the stones) Lay the puff pastry to a circle, same size then the cake dish.

Pour the sugar and the water in a thick saucepan and make a caramel.

Once the caramel arrives at a dark golden stage

colour, add all the butter in once and Wisk to incorporate nicely.

Pour the caramel straight away in a cake dish, making sure that the bottom is well covered.

Arrange the apricot in the dish, starting by the side and finishing in the middle.

Cover with the puff pastry and cook in a hot oven at 180c for 25 to 35 minutes.

Once cooked, remove from the oven, and press slightly with another dish.

Turn the tart upside down making sure to collect and reserve the caramel.

Serve with the caramel and a few Syrah leaves.

The combination is very good and surprising as the sharpness of the leaves cut through the sweetness of the Apricot.

139

CHERRY AND APPLE SALAD WITH COMTE CHEESE SYRHA LEAVES

By Franck Pontais

To make 4 portions

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INGREDIENTS

METHOD

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Make some fine julienne out of the red apples.

Cut half of the cherries into quarters and leave the rest half.

Make some peelings out of the celery branch and the comte cheese using a traditional peeler.

Using a mixing bowl, fold together the Citra leaves, Salty fingers, Gangnam tops, Cherries, Julienne of apples, peelings of Comte cheese and celery branch.

Citra leaves 8 pieces Salty fingers ½ punnet Gangnam top 1 punnet Pitted Fresh Cherries 125gr Celery Branch 80gr Red apple 1 big or 2 small.

Mature Comte Cheese 60gr Crumpet bread wafer few slices Olive oil to drizzle.

Place in the middle of each plate and serve with a generous drizzle of virgin olive oil and the crumpet bread wafers.

This salad is the definition of an excellent food combination with the saltiness of the salty fingers cutting through the sweetness of the cherries, and of course the nuttiness of the comte cheese.

The crunch of the apple with the Gangnam tops and Citra leaves compliment just as well.

CHERRY “MADELEINES” JASMINE BLOSSOM

By Franck Pontais

To make 4 portions or 12 Madeleines

INGREDIENTS ● Jasmine Blossom 12 pieces ● Jasmine Blossom Flavoured sugar 100gr ● Pitted cherries 100gr ● Plain flour 100gr ● Unsalted butter 100gr ● Medium eggs 2 pieces ● Lemon zest from one lemon ● Yeast powder 1 tsp ● Salt one small pinch ● Icing sugar to dust.

METHOD Dice 1/3 of the cherries Melt the butter and keep aside.

Using a bowl, mix the eggs, the flavoured sugar, and the pinch of salt.

Fold together the flour and the yeast powder and add to the mix.

Then add the melted butter and the lemon zest.

Let the paste rest for a minimum of 2 hours.

Divide the Madeleines mix into the Madeleines mould, add a few sliced cherries on top of each one.

Bake in the oven and serve with The rest of the cherries, the jasmine blossoms, and a dust of icing sugar.

FOR THE FLAVOURED JASMINE BLOSSOM SUGAR.

METHOD Blend together in a high-speed blender 100gr of caster sugar with 5 jasmine blossoms.

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PICKLED APRICOT BRUSCHETTA WITH ROQUEFORT CHEESE DUSHI BUTTONS, FLOREGANO, KAFFIR LIME LEAVES, ANIS BLOSSOM

By Franck Pontais

To make 4 portions (8 bruschetta) PICKLED APRICOT

INGREDIENTS ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Kaffir lime leaves 2 leaves Dushi buttons 4 pieces Floregano 3 pieces Granulated sugar 50gr Red wine vinegar 50ml Water 200ml Fresh Apricot 700gr

METHOD Cut the apricots into wedges.

Dissolve the sugar with the water and vinegar and pour into a thick saucepan.

Add to the liquid the kaffir lime leaves, Dushi buttons and floregano.

Bring the pickling liquid to boil for 20 second and add the apricot wedges.

Bring to boil for another 10 second, turn off the heat and place a plate on top of the pan.

Let cool down for 15 minutes and 142

transfer into a preserving jar.

Let infuse for at least 24hours before using the pickled apricot.

BRUSCHETTA

INGREDIENTS ● ● ● ● ● ●

Floregano 4 pieces Dushi button 8 pieces Anis Blossom 8 pieces Ciabatta bread 8 slices Olive oil to drizzle Roquefort cheese 80 gr

METHOD Drizzle the ciabatta bread with the olive oil and toast the slices in a hot oven.

Add 10gr or Roquefort cheese on one side of each bruschetta and put back in the oven for 30 seconds to slightly melt the cheese.

Add 2 to 3 pieces of Pickled apricot on the over half of the bruschetta and serve with the floregano, Anis blossom and dushi button.

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CHOCOLATE FONDANT BANANA AND PASSIONFRUIT SORBET - NOUGATINE

By Chris McClurg, Head Chef at Number 6, Padstow

FONDANT

INGREDIENTS ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

3 egg yolks 3 whole eggs 200g caster sugar 75g plain flour 150g 70% dark chocolate 150g unsalted butter Melted butter and cocoa powder

Brush a tin foil mould with butter and coat the mould with cocoa powder ensuring to tap any excess cocoa powder out of the mould Weigh 80g of fondant mix into the mould Bake the fondant in a pre-heated fan oven at 180°C for 10/11 minutes Leave to rest for 30 seconds and remove from the tin and finish with dusted cocoa powder

METHOD In a bowl over simmering water melt the chocolate and butter Lightly whisk the eggs and sugar together Pour the chocolate and butter mix into the eggs and sugar and mix well Lightly fold through the flour but make sure not to over work the mixture, leave to rest for 24 hours in the fridge before using 144

NOUGATINE

INGREDIENTS ● ● ● ● ● ●

100g milk 250g unsalted butter 100g glucose 300g caster sugar 5g pectin 300g pistachio nuts lightly chopped

METHOD Bring all the ingredient except the nuts to the boil and continue to boil until you reach 106°C Add the chopped nuts and leave to cool Place some of the mixture onto a tray lined with baking paper and bake in a pre-heated oven at 180°C until the mixture starts to turn golden brown Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly, now cut out round disc’s being careful not to burn yourself as the mixture will still be very hot If the nougatine gets too cold/ brittle just place back into the oven to re warm the mix, then start cutting again You do not need to cut disc’s, this is for presentation, you can break the nougatine up when brittle or cut with a knife when still hot!

ICE CREAM

INGREDIENTS ● ● ● ● ●

400g Passion Fruit Puree 400g Banana Puree 650g Stock Syrup (50/50) 50g Glycerine 30g Lemon Juice

METHOD Combine all the ingredients together Blitz well with a hand blender Pass the mixture through a fine sieve and place into paco containers Churn the mixture twice in the paco machine before using

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