1AM issue10 RIDE 'EM

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ride ‘ em!

this page, cover and contents: Erica wears shirt, jacket and pants by STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB, equestrian hat and boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN. (see editorial page 36 or click image)

COVER 36 FASHION 1AM RIDE ‘EM

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O C 0 1 E U S S I AM (CLICK on IMAGEs TO flip direct TO PAGE)

01:00 FIRST UP 16 NZ FASHION DESIGN BOOK 18 1AM HOMEGIRL: ELLA ESSAU NOM*d Coat, hand-stencilled leather and fur vintage coat, reworked 2008 after 2003 original ‘Skeleton’ hooded sweatshirt, screenprinted brushed cotton sweatshirting, Sam Robertson textile design ‘Band’ track pants, brushed cotton sweatshirting Red collection A/W 2003

78 FASHION 1AM LONELY PLANET

S T N E T N O

114 FASHION 1AM SHADOWPLAY

128 PORTRAIT 1AM MISS PHLOSS

140 1AM 1:00AM 154 FEATURE ARTIST 156 PET OF THE MONTH 1 AM EDITORIAL/ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES CONTACT 1 AM SUBSCRIBE TO 1 AM

ZAMBESI

[ LI FE A F T E R S K ATE]

2010

We A cti v i s t N I C O L E L E M O I N E S HO T B Y C HE RY L D U N N www. we s c. co m

0 N 0 : O I 01 FASH OK O Z B N IGN S E D Karen Walker Biker jacket, cotton drill Teeshirt, screenprinted cotton, Mikhail Gherman textile design Skirt, synthetic silk Young willing and eager collection A/W 2003–04

Kate Sylvester ‘Suska’ cape, wool coating with faux fur trim Wolf collection A/W 2007

Doris de Pont Reversible raincoat, screenprinted cotton furnishing fabric and polished cotton 1985

Kate Sylvester ‘Meret’ short-sleeved jacket, faux fur ‘Emma’ top, Zque merino ‘Misia’ skirt, faux fur ‘Ponyskin’ belt, cowhide Art groupie collection A/W 2008

NOM*d Coat, hand-stencilled leather and fur vintage coat, reworked 2008 after 2003 original ‘Skeleton’ hooded sweatshirt, screenprinted brushed cotton sweatshirting, Sam Robertson textile design ‘Band’ track pants, brushed cotton sweatshirting Red collection A/W 2003

Zambesi ‘Athena’ dress, wool felt on polyester tulle with chemically burnt-out pattern A/W 1999 ‘Ringmaster’ tail coat, wool gabardine with fabric-covered buttons Wild at heart collection A/W 2004

Doris de Pont Blazer, hand-screenprinted cotton, Adrienne Foote textile design Tutu, nylon tulle with satin cord edging 1988

C L IC K HERE F G I V E W OR AY

For dedicated followers of New Zealand fashion, or anyone interested in its history and development, a fully illustrated book celebrating this subject has finally been released.

Containing illuminating one-on-one interviews with twenty five of New Zealand’s top contemporary designers and more than 500 full-colour illustrations of clothes, editorial, advertisement and catwalk action, New Zealand Fashion Design by Angela Lassig is a beautifully produced hardback volume which is a work of art in itself and a must-have for fashionistas worldwide. Published by the award-winning imprint of NZ’s iconic national museum, Te Papa Press, available from all good NZ bookstores and online at www. tepapapress.co.nz - we have a copy to giveaway: just click above to go into the draw. left to right from top: Zambesi ‘Athena’ dress, A/W 1999, ‘Ringmaster’ tail coat, A/W 2004; Karen Walker Biker jacket, cotton drill Teeshirt, Skirt, Young willing and eager collection A/W 2003–04; Doris de Pont Reversible raincoat, 1985, Blazer and Tutu, 1988; Kate Sylvester ‘Suska’ cape, A/W 2007, faux fur jacket twinset and knitted top with gloves A/W 2008; NOM*D leather and fur coat, hooded sweatshirt and track pants, A/W 2003.

dress by STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB, rings worn throughout

by MEADOWLARK and DEADLY PONIES from GOOD AS GOLD, necklaces by KAREN WALKER JEWELLERY.

: 0 L 0 01: ME GIR HO A ESAU N: W L L O E ME T ON HO LLINGT WE What is your name? Ella Belle Fitzmaurice Esau. Where were you born? Masterton, Wairarapa, NZ. Where do you live now? Strathmore, Wellington. Where are you now?

At home! Where do you consider your home town to be? Newtown (central suburb), Wellington. What is it known for? Wellington is the capital city of New Zealand and the home to parliament and the prime minister. Newtown is known for its many op-shops, cafes and galleries. Who’s the most famous person to have come from your town? So many amazing artists and musicians, too many to mention... ummm, filmmaker Peter Jackson i guess! What do you love most about it? You can walk down the road and bump into someone you know or meet someone new - everyone’s generally really friendly and Wellington has a great vibe about it and it’s easy to get around, most things are in walking distance. Where is the best place to get a coffee and hang? i like Esspressoholic and Offbeat Originals - they both do good food and coffee and have lovely staff. Where is the best place to shop for a cool new outfit? Stores in Cuba street - there’s probably something for everyone there, or op-shops in Newtown. If you could change one thing about your hometown, what would it be? A little warmer, please! If you had the choice where would you most like to live in the future? Oh thats hard! I would love to have an apartment on the waterfront in Wellington and somewhere overseas later on... photographed in Wellington by LOUISE HATTON fashion by IMOGEN WILSON hair by JORDYN @ Wills York, Wellington makeup by VICTORIA LITCHFIELD @ MAC

shirt by THERESE RAWSTHORNE available from GOOD AS GOLD, cable knit shorts by STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB.

t-shirt by RODARTE.

sweatshirt from KAREN WALKER archive, knit shorts by LONELY HEARTS, dress by RODARTE for TARGET, bag by JEREMY SCOTT, boots models own.

dress and necklace by KAREN WALKER, shearling vest stylists own.

dress by KATE SYLVESTER, boots models own.

bra top LONELY by LONELY HEARTS, pleat skirt by LONELY HEARTS, socks by KAREN WALKER, slippers and bracelets stylists own.

Thanks to Christina at HUNTERS & COLLECTORS and Gary at WELLINGTON MOTORCYCLE.

1 AM ISSUE 10 FASHION FEATURES STH HEMISPHERE SEASON A/W 2010: STEVE TILLEY MARISSA FINDLAY NTH HEMISPHERE SEASON S/S 2010 PINO LEONE 1 AM PORTRAIT CLINTON CARDOZO

photography by STEPHEN TILLEY fashion by AMANDA & GLENN HUNT makeup & hair MARGO REGAN models ERICA @ CLYNE MALIN @ NOVA hand crafted rocking horse to order at WWW.ROCKINGHORSES.NET.NZ

C TO LICK W VID ATCH OF EO SHOTHIS OT

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M E ‘ E D I R M

Malin wears shirt by CAMILLE HOWIE, jacket by MAURIE AND EVE, gloves

by SERA LILY, equestrian pants and boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Erica wears blouse by JULIETTE HOGAN, pants by THERESE RAWTHORNE, equestrian hat and boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN, belt by ZAMBESI.

Erica wears blouse by JULIETTE HOGAN, pants by THERESE RAWTHORNE, equestrian hat and boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN, belt by ZAMBESI.

Malin wears blouse by KATE SYLVESTER, pants by BETTINA LIANO, equestrian hat and boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Malin wears blouse by KATE SYLVESTER, pants by BETTINA LIANO, equestrian hat and boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN; Erica wears pants by HUFFER, belt by Zambesi, equestrian bib, boots and whip from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Erica wears pants by HUFFER, belt by Zambesi, equestrian bib, boots and whip from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Erica wears pants by HUFFER, belt by Zambesi, equestrian bib, boots and whip from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Erica wears jacket and pants by LONELY HEARTS, equestrian bib, boots and whip from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Erica wears jacket by WESC, skirt by MAURIE AND EVE, belt by ZAMBESI equestrian hat and boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Erica wears jacket by WESC, skirt by MAURIE AND EVE, belt by ZAMBESI equestrian hat and boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Malin wears blouse

by Zambesi, jacket by LONELY HEARTS, pants

by SHERIE MUJIS.

Erica wears jacket by NOM*D, white jodhpurs, boots and whip from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Erica wears jacket by NOM*D, white jodhpurs, boots and whip from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Malin wears blouse by WORKSHOP DENIM, jacket by INSIGHT, skirt

by SALASAI.

Malin wears blouse by WORKSHOP DENIM, jacket by INSIGHT, skirt

by SALASAI, equestrian boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Malin wears blouse by WORKSHOP DENIM, jacket by INSIGHT, skirt

by SALASAI, equestrian boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN; Erica wears jacket by ONETEASPOON, pants by DEBORAH SWEENEY, equestrian neckpiece, boots and whip from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Erica wears jacket by BETH ELLERY, equestrian jodhpurs and boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

Erica wears jacket by BETH ELLERY, equestrian jodhpurs and boots from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN

Malin wears jacket, pants and leather boots all by ZAMBESI, blouse by NOM*D.

Erica wears equestrian hat, bib and whip from CHEVALIER EQUESTRIAN.

1 AM

CK CLI ATCH W TO IDEO V TH IS OF OOT SH

LON ELY

photography by MARISSA FINDLAY fashion by AMANDA and GLENN HUNT makeup and hair by AMBER D for MAC model IMOGEN @ RED 11

PL A NET

this page and previous: sequin dress by HELEN CHERRY, stockings

by COLUMBINE, white ankle boots by VIVIENNE WESTWOOD FOR MELISSA.

grey wool dress by HOPETOWN hemmedd up, stockings by COLUMBINE, white boots from NUMBER 1 SHOE WAREHOUSE.

silver sequined bodysuit

by BLAK BASICS, stockings by COLUMBINE.

silver sequined bodysuit

by BLAK BASICS, red knit oversized vest by STITCH MINISTRY, stockings by COLUMBINE.

wool cape by DEBORAH SWEENEY, stockings

by COLUMBINE, heels

by CYBELE.

wool felt dress by ZAMBESI hemmed up, customised metalic snake skin print leggings worn as top with matching leggings from COTTON ON.

biker dress SYLVESTER

by KATE SYLVESTER (ESHOP) hemmed up, leopard print stockings

by COLUMBINE worn over models own heels.

biker dress SYLVESTER

by KATE SYLVESTER (ESHOP) hemmed up, leopard print stockings

by COLUMBINE worn over models own heels.

grey knit sweater with yellow ruffle by STANDARD ISSUE, metallic bronze pleated skirt by ISBIM, stockings by COLUMBINE.

grey knit sweater with yellow ruffle by STANDARD ISSUE.

black bodysuit worn back to front by INSIGHT, metallic leggings and customised leggings as top from COTTON ON, peep-toe wedges by BEAU COOPS from BLACKBOX BOUTIQUE or shop online at GOOD AS GOLD (ESHOP)

black bodysuit worn back to front by INSIGHT, metallic leggings and customised leggings as top from COTTON ON, peep-toe wedges by BEAU COOPS from BLACKBOX BOUTIQUE or shop online at GOOD AS GOLD (ESHOP)

white pleated dress and sheer lilac leggings by LONELY HEARTS, white boots from NUMBER 1 SHOE WAREHOUSE.

gold pyramind stud dress by MAURIE AND EVE, black leather and cotton leggings by LONELY HEARTS, peep-toe wedges by BEAU COOPS from BLACKBOX BOUTIQUE or shop online at GOOD AS GOLD (ESHOP)

gold pyramind stud dress by MAURIE AND EVE, black leather and cotton leggings by LONELY HEARTS.

puffer vest by HUFFER over bodysuit by EMMA FORD, stockings

by COLUMBINE, white ankle boots by VIVIENNE WESTWOOD FOR MELISSA.

puffer vest by HUFFER over bodysuit by EMMA FORD, stockings

by COLUMBINE, white ankle boots by VIVIENNE WESTWOOD FOR MELISSA.

photography by PINO LEONE fashion by SIMONA SANFEDELE makeup & hair MIRIANA DE SILVESTRIS model DIANA @ BALTIC MODEL MANAGEMENT

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A H S M A

overalls by FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO, shoes by JOHN RICHMOND.

Y A L P W O D A H

dress by ERMANNO SCERVINO.

bodysuit & pantyhose

by MILA SCHON, shawl

by MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, shoes by HAUTE, headgear by ERIKA COMIN CONCEPT.

leggings by GAETANO NAVARRA, shawl stylist own. .

dress by FERRAGAMO, bracelets by GAETANO NAVARRA.

pants by MILA SCHON, shoes by JOHN RICHMOND, bracelet

by MANUEL BOZZI JEWELS.

longuette & shoes by JOHN RICHMOND, bracelets

by GAETANO NAVARRA, headpiece by PHILIP TRACY.

shawl stylist own.

dress by ICEBERG, boots

by ERMANNO SCERVINO.

WITH HER SIGNATURE PINK BOB AND TASSEL BOOB, MISS PHLOSS IS HARD TO MISS. EXPLODING ON THE LOCAL NIGHTCLUB SCENE, THIS AUCKLAND BURLESQUE DANCER, ALTERNATIVE MODEL AND FIRECRACKER GOES OFF WITH A BANG! TAKING NO PRISONERS AND MAKING NO APOLOGIES, WITH HER FLAMBOYANT ATTIRE AND SEXSHOP CHIC, THIS IS A PORTRAIT OF A TRULY MODERN WOMAN, COMPLETELY AWARE OF HERSELF AND HER SEXUALLY AND TOTALLY SECURE IN BOTH. MISS PHLOSS photographed by CLINTON CARDOZO makeup MAC, hair FUDGE paintbox rasberry.

1 AM M ISS PH

PHLOS S

Miss Phloss wears tittie tassels and gloves from Camden Market and necklace from Lolita Shop Shibuya, Sydney, worn throughout.

Miss Phloss wears silver corset from BURLESKA.CO.UK, customised pants

by SUPRE, boots from PLEASERUSA.COM.

Miss Phloss wears vintage vest, top her own, customised pants by SUPRE, skull necklace and belt from DJSTATION.CO.NZ, boots from PLEASERUSA.COM.

Miss Phloss wears tittie tassels and necklaces as before, stockings from LEG AVENUE, knickers

by BENDON.

Miss Phloss wears stockings from LEG AVENUE, knickers

by BENDON.

C I S : M A 0 0 : 1 @ 1 AM P P I V Y A D H T R I B 1ST 9 O N E T T E S S A C

O C S I D CK 0 1 / 4 / 1 1 Y T R A P PRE

1 AM RE FEATUT: ARTISLLA ESTE LE CAST

CAT AUBURN “Rest Cure” 2009 fibreglass, four-poster bed, hessian and straw mattress; 2200 x 2200 x 1660 mm; installed at CIEL PR, Karangahape Road, 2010 courtesy of Rob Garrett Contemporary Fine Art

opposite: Untitled (A Sense of the Vapid, Perrin with sunglasses) 2009, oil & gesso on linen, 1300 x 950mm; this page: Untitled (A Sense of the Vapid, Diane) 2009, oil & gesso on linen, 1300 x 950mm.

F O T E P M 1A A YOD

: H T N O M E TH

1AM’s fashion pet this month belonging to Helene and Steve from LONELY HEARTS is YODA, a Green and Golden Bell Frog, introduced from Australia in the late 1860’s by the Auckland Acclimisation Society. Yoda has been an intricate part of the label’s success and until now it’s secret weapon - although confined physically to his tank, Yoda operates on the astral plane, travelling spiritually to the fashion capitals of the world and tuning in to the creative aether to divine emerging trends, ensuring the label is kept well at the fore-front of NZ fashion.

blackboxboutique.com 35b Surrey Crescent, Grey Lynn & new store now open @ The Department Store, 10 Northcroft Street, Takapuna, Auckland.

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