09.28.21

DINING GUIDE

LETTER FROM THE DINING GUIDE EDITOR

3 Review of Alif Brew

5 Roundup: Non-traditional drinking spots

9 Anixety & a Coffee Addiction

12 American Vegan Center Opens

15 Roundup: First Date Spots

23 Meet Amanda Shulman

34TH STREET EXECUTIVE BOARD Beatrice Forman, Editor–in–Chief: forman@34st.com Denali Sagner, Special Issues Editor: sagner@34st.com Chelsey Zhu, Campus Editor: zhu@34st.com Mehek Boparai, Culture Editor: boparai@34st.com Karin Hananel, Assignments Editor: hananel@34st.com 34TH STREET EDITORS Eva Ingber, Features Editor Angela Shen, Features Editor Julia Esposito, Word on the Street Editor Aakruti Ganeshan, Focus Editor Emily White, Focus Editor 2

On masking up, chowing down, and enjoying "the in between"

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can’t quite tell if we’ve returned to the land of precedented times. Last week, I babbled my way through a PowerPoint presentation in front of my political science seminar for the first time in a while—no screen sharing involved. But, barring the occasional water break, my mask stayed on the entire time.

Penn’s libraries are open, but after a year of doing work at my bedroom desk, I’ve seldom sat down at my historic spot in the Van Pelt Reading Room. Every time I leave my apartment, I run through my usual mental checklist: wallet, keys, phone, mask.

There used to be normal times and COVID–19 times. After enough social distancing and vaccinating, the COVID–19 times would end and we would return to all the grimy, shoulder– brushing, close–knit behavior we used to love so dearly. Think beer pong, sneezing on the subway, and kissing strangers. But now, as the pandemic has dragged on for 18 months, the line between these two worlds is becoming less and less clear. No longer are we awaiting a return to the life we knew. Rather, we are stepping into a world unknown—a world informed by the collective, unspeakable trauma of a life interrupted.

Our relationship with food is no exception.

I can finally dine indoors again at all of my favorite restaurants.

Lately, I’ve been tucking myself away in dimly lit booths over hot bowls of vegetarian ramen and platters of cheap, greasy nachos.

I always have to be reminded, though, to mask up as I walk out the door. The makeshift outdoor streeteries and to–go margaritas that cropped up last spring haven’t faded from my radar. In fact, despite being fully vaccinated, I still often opt for outdoor dining. The people–watching is just too good to pass up.

For the first time since the pandemic, Street’s regular Dining Guide shenanigans are back. We reviewed restaurants across the

Hannah Lonser, Style Editor Maddie Muldoon, Ego Editor Peyton Toups, Music Editor Walden Green, Arts Editor Arielle Stanger, Film & TV Editor Alice Heyeh, Creative Director Jesse Zhang, Multimedia Editor Caylen David, Audience Engagement Editor 34TH STREET STAFF Features Staff Writers: Sejal Sangani, Angela Shen, Mira Sydow, Amy Xiang, Meg Gladieux Focus Beat Writers: Rema Bhat, Jean Paik Style Beat Writers: Kira Wang Music Beat Writers: Nora Youn, Evan Qiang, Fernanda Brizuela Arts Beat Writers: Jessa Glassman

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city, from a Mexican–Chinese eatery located in an old Jiffy Lube to an unassuming yet delicious Ethiopian minimart to a brand new banana whip joint. We spoke with Penn alums who’ve turned their love of food into trailblazing careers. We shared personal essays about the meals we’ve had with others and what they’ve taught us about ourselves.

But, despite this taste of normalcy, we did it all in the lingering world of pandemic protocols, Zoom calls, and touchless menus.

We ate, drank, chatted, and licked our fingers in this funny space in between then and now. It’s weird, it’s uncomfortable, and it’s hopeful. Maybe that's the beauty of it all.

Eat up. Read this beautiful issue about food, people, and life.

And enjoy the in–between. I’m trying my best to.

SSSF,

Illustration by Cecelia Vieira

Denali

Film & TV Beat Writers: Harshita Gupta Staff Writers: Kathryn Xu, Emily Moon MULTIMEDIA Multimedia Associates: Dhivya Arasappan, Sage Levine, Sophie Dai, Sophie Huang, Samantha Turner, Sudeep Bhargava, Liwa Sun, Sukhmani Kaur, Alexandra Morgan–Lindo Audience Engagement Associates: Kira Wang, Yamila Frej, Liwa Sun Copy Editor: Brittany Darrow Cover Design by Isabel Liang Contacting 34th Street Magazine: If you have questions, comments, complaints or letters to the editor, email Bea Forman, Editor-In-Chief, at forman@34stcom. You can also call us at (215) 422–4640.

www.34st.com ©2021 34th Street Magazine, The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc. No part may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express, written consent of the editors (but I bet we will give you the a–okay.) All rights reserved.

34th Street Magazine is published by The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc., 4015 Walnut St., Philadelphia, Pa., 19104, every Tuesday.

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DINING GUIDE

Alif Brew and Mini Mart Brings Coffee and Celebration to Clark Park A fresh and welcoming way to enjoy good Ethiopian food and drink | ANGELA SHEN

TL;DR

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brisk 20 minute walk from Penn’s campus past the luscious fields of Clark Park will take you to Alif Brew & Mini Mart. The café and restaurant offers mouth–watering Ethiopian food and drink for any occasion, from a mid–morning snack to a satiating dinner. Alif Brew’s mini marketplace also sells a variety of Middle Eastern snacks and spices that bring the enticing and sometimes elusive flavors like those of cardamom or rose water into customers’ homes.

The day before our visit, Alif Brew's staff and guests came together to celebrate Enkutatash (Ethiopian New Year) with delicious, family–friendly meals from a menu specially prepared for the holiday. As we entered, the atmosphere reflected the friendly and joyous spirit of the holiday. Near the entrance, a large sign encapsulates the store’s simple philosophy: “When you’re here, you’re family.” Next to it, a chalkboard features hand–drawn sketches of Ethiopian coffee and injera (a spongy flatbread central to Ethiopian cuisine) alongside the words “AKA ‘Our Vibranium,’’' referencing the Marvel movie Black Panther and invoking pride in African culture. In the back, a grassy green mat is set up with colorful cups, pots, and baskets in preparation for a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony. It's easy to imagine families gathering around piquant cups of coffee and wide plates of steaming food to spend time together in the welcoming environment of Alif Brew.

The Alif Special coffee, which can be iced or hot, lived up to its name as the store’s featured drink. At first glance, the umber liquid reveals nothing too special—a simple coffee, with no added milk or cream—but the first sip was absolutely magical. Infused with Ethiopian ginger, the coffee soars

A criminally underrated stop for coffee and Ethiopian cuisine close to campus.

HOURS: 7am–9pm every day

Photo by Angela Shen to new heights of flavor unparalleled by any Starbucks or campus café: not too bitter, not too sweet, invigorating and enjoyable even for those normally intimidated by ginger.

Brunch started with the Malawah, a layered pancake–like flatbread served with grated tomato, egg, labneh (a tart–strained yogurt), and za'atar (a Levantine spice blend that may include thyme, oregano, marjoram, sumac, and sesame seeds). Presented as a wrap that could easily be used for grab–and–go, the Malawah tastes light and fresh due to its mix of fillings. The best part was undeniably the flatbread itself, which has buttery layers that are easy to pull apart and a satisfyingly soft, chewy texture.

Aesthetically, the Foul won: a fava bean stew artfully painted with bright red and green salsa and sprinkled with feta, all drizzled with a tempting layer of olive oil and paired with fresh slices of pita bread. Somehow, the stew manages to taste even better than it looks: the rich, spiced–but–not–spicy flavors

of paprika and cumin mingle on your taste buds to create a sensation akin to cuddling with someone on a cold December day.

The last to arrive was the Birz. Mebruka Kane, the staff member who kindly helped describe the components of each dish to us, compared the Birz to a decaffeinated but equally energizing version of kombucha. In reality, the Birz is an enchanting melody of flavors incomparable to any other drink. The bright golden drink combines fermented honey water, turmeric, cloves, and raisin to create a taste that is nearly indescribable, and definitely worth a visit to Alif Brew to try.

That’s just a taste of Alif Brew and Mini Mart’s menu. There’s still so much more to snack on—injera wraps, sambusa (a savory snack similar to a South Asian samosa), and a variety of fresh pastries. The comfortable, communal environment of Alif Brew and Mini Mart creates an enticing place to rest, rejuvenate, and take in the warm, rejuvenating flavors of Ethiopian cuisine.

LOCATION: 4501 Baltimore Ave Price: $

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DINING GUIDE

HUDA: Come for the Sandwiches, Stay for Everything Else Good service, heavenly milk buns, and complex flavors make HUDA stand out among Rittenhouse Square's pack of fast casual restaurants. | KARIN HANANEL

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s the smell of butter faintly fills the air and funky tunes bump through the speakers, I know I’m in the right place. That right place is HUDA, a fast casual sandwich shop nestled on the corner of 18th and Ranstead Streets that opened in August of 2020. HUDA, unlike other joints in the city, isn’t serving up just any sandwich—these sammies are assembled with homemade milk buns. Crispy and buttered on their underside with sweetness in each bite, potato rolls or hamburger buns seem pedestrian in comparison.

While the bread is a key ingredient, the fillings for each sandwich are equally impressive: crispy maitake mushrooms, heirloom tomatoes, grilled swordfish, and braised short ribs, to name a few.

That being said, HUDA is far from a one–trick pony. Their sides and salads are sophisticated and simple— think lamb chops with sweet chili glaze or pickled green beans and french fries with dipping sauces. They even serve dessert, in the form of a cinnamon milk bun with blueberries and mascarpone icing.

Just looking at the menu, my mouth waters, overwhelmed by the delectability of all the options. I end up just asking chef–slash–owner Yehua Sichel to make the choices for me.

He goes with two elevated basics: the spicy chicken sandwich and the BLT. As he prepares the sandwiches, I chat with Sichel and his colleague Alejandra Poulis. I promise them that I am an actual reporter, (a fact that I sometimes debate the veracity of ) collecting some facts about the restaurant. I thank them profusely for giving a hungry student journalist some sandwiches to try. Conversation is light and they are thoroughly kind.

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In a world where fast casual can sometimes mean an austere grab–and–go situation, HUDA feels homey. Cookbooks, trinkets, and a Dutch oven are displayed near the window and the bold black and white art gives the otherwise clean front room some character.

I am staring at a piece of art that had "yum" written multiple times in black bubble lettering when the BLT comes out. Slathered in umami–laden garlic mayo and layered with thick slices of golden heirloom tomatoes, the first bite is just as juicy as you’d imagine. The bacon isn't too thick or thin, the lettuce adds some crunch, and the bun is perfectly toasted. Sure, flavor is the main character; but texture is the deuteragonist. Both showed up and wowed in this first act.

On the heels of our last bites of the BLT comes the spicy chicken sandwich. You would think that after one substantial and meaty sandwich you wouldn’t have space for another. At HUDA, this isn't the case. The spicy chicken sandwich features crispy fried chicken accompanied by lettuce, tomato, pickled chilis, and southwest sauce. The pickled chilis are surprisingly mild and add a briny kick, while the spicy southwest sauce coats each bite with more necessary spice.

Samantha, our photographer who accompanied me on the journey, and I nod at each other the entire time, with her raving about bringing her boyfriend there, and me trying to plan my next visit in my head. When there’s a sense of urgency to return to a place you’re already at, I’d call that a good sign. More explanation isn’t necessary after that. Go to HUDA, try a milk bun sandwich, and stay a bit longer than you expected—you won’t regret it.

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Photo by Samantha Turner

Photo by Sasmantha Turner

TL;DR Gourmet sandwiches and good vibes to fuel your next trip to Rittenhouse Square.

HOURS: 11am to 6pm Tuesdays through Saturdays, 11am to 3pm Sundays LOCATION: 32 South 18th St. Price: $S

DINING GUIDE

These Drinking Spots Are Not What You're Used To

We compiled four nontraditional places to grab a cocktail, grab a friend, and have a memorable night in the city. | MEHEK BOPARAI

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he beauty of turning 21is the sheer safety in knowing you are guaranteed access to the adult world of alcohol, sophistication, and cocktail party talk. The ability to present your shiny, laminated, and real license to enter is one that should not be taken lightly. And with this ability comes ample opportunity to explore the world of concoctions that reside across the city of Philadelphia.

What’s most enticing about this city, however, is not necessarily the popular bars or restaurants that often appear on social media pages or Yelp search results. It’s the hidden gems, the more niche spots that you feel entitled to claim as your own because you discovered them. These unconventional locations to drink and have a wonderful time with friends and loved ones can serve as a backdrop to some of your most beloved memories and should not be so difficult to find. Street has compiled a list of the top four underrated yet glamorous places to grab a cocktail or a glass of pinot noir—and are ready to spill the secrets so that you may spill the spirits.

The Library Bar

Tucked inside the glamour of the Rittenhouse Hotel, the Library Bar is a dimly lit paradise for literature enthusiasts. There is a great expectation that you come dressed to the nines, and if you’re lucky you’ll be able to overhear the conversations of the hotel attendees who live fascinating lives. Seating extends beyond the bar into a small alcove behind the hotel lobby, and holds tables of up to four. Featured on the menu is the apex of sophistication—the classic Old Fashioned, aged bottles of red wine, and a perfect coffee cocktail are some of the highlights. Put on your favorite vintage outfit, grab a friend, and channel your inner Hemingway at this luxurious experience.

Location: 210 W. Rittenhouse Square Hours: Wednesdays through Saturdays 5p.m. to 11p.m.

Price: $$$

Helium Comedy Club

The art of stand–up is one of the most enjoyable activities to experience. It's located right down the street from the family–owned restaurant Porcini; grab a lovely dinner and then head over to Helium Comedy Club to experience some of the best humor you’ve heard in a while. You can purchase tickets beforehand to ensure you and your party snag a table together, or if you’re just looking to have a great date with yourself, you can buy a ticket from the box office before the show starts. Grab one of the fun beverages off the club’s drink menu, as the waiters quietly sneak from table to table during the performances to ensure you always get your fill without having to miss the show. The menu has a wide variety of options, from your favorite IPA to a fun gin cocktail deemed “The Rittenhouse.”

Location: 2031 Sansom St. Hours: Tuesdays through Sundays 6p.m. to 11p.m.

Price: $$

expensive than what the city usually offers, but you may even be able to have a shot at the karaoke mic on a Friday night.

Location: 1200 E. Passyunk Ave. Hours: Mondays through Sundays 7a.m. to 2a.m.

Price: $

Kick Axe Throwing

Don’t let the requirement of a waiver scare you off from this Old City attraction.

Kick Axe Throwing is a prime example of how to safely have an action–packed evening, where you and your friends can select a time slot to throw axes at a target in hopes of scoring the most points. Following a thorough tutorial from a trained professional, the game is great to play with larger groups of people, so that when you’re not playing you can grab a well–mixed drink from the bar near the entrance. The walls don humorous neon–lit signs and the mood of the venue radiates cozy yet photogenic, in a manner that ensures you will want to document the experience. Relax, grab an axe, and practice your throwing skills for the next time you want to impress someone on a date.

Location: 232 Market St. Hours: Wednesdays through Sundays 4p.m. to 11p.m.

Price: $$ Sharing a drink with a loved one doesn’t have to be so traditional, and Philadelphia has plenty of places to assure that. Whether it be a literary fantasy or a classic dose of Americana, visit one of these four places and settle into an evening spent with high and reasonably priced spirits.

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Ray’s "Happy Birthday" Bar

Here in Philadelphia, it is becoming more and more difficult to find a classic Americana bar that’s filled with locals and opened probably before you’ve woken up. Enter Ray’s "Happy Birthday" Bar, located in South Philly just down the street from Pat's and Geno's. The bar has been open since 1938, and as the name suggests, is birthday themed. Walk in on your special day, and you’ll be guaranteed a free shot. The blue and cream colored tiles pair nicely with the rainbow string lights on the wall to create an atmosphere that is both comforting and nostalgic. Take some of your favorite people to this spot, and not only will the drinks be significantly less

3420 Sansom Street • 215.386.9224 • whitedog.com WD_DP_Fall Guide 2021.indd 1

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DINING GUIDE

ALAINA CHOU HOMETOWN: MAJOR: ACTIVITES:

Brooklyn, N.Y. Fine arts, minor in English Penn Appétit, Crumbs & Nibbles, Gourmand, Supper Club, intern for Susan Spungen

Food photographer. Blogger. Podcaster. She puts all other campus foodies to shame. | CHELSEY ZHU 34th STREET: How did you get into cooking and baking?

ALAINA CHOU: My family always loved food growing up. Even though my parents were both working full time, we would definitely try to set aside time for family dinners. So food was a big part of my life.

But I think my interest in it really started when I was around 13. I started baking a ton in any free time I had after school or on weekends. It was actually my parents' idea to try to funnel all of that into something semi– productive. So they told me I should start a food blog.

This was around 2013, early 2012—right when food blogs were starting to get big. I started this blog called Crumbs & Nibbles, and I would take iPhone photos of what I was making and write them up.

At the start, it was pretty much all other people's recipes that I was just testing out and trying, and I would upload photos, write up a little post, and post it to this blog. I kept that up all through the rest of middle school and through high school. I still post on it—definitely more rarely nowadays, but I do try to post on it once every few months just to keep it going.

So that was kind of my entry into the food space.

At the start, it was very much just a hobby, and at that age, I never really saw myself wanting to go into food as a career. At that time, I really didn't know what I wanted to do. But, that food blog kind of taught me the ropes of recipe development. Eventually, I started developing my own recipes. I practiced my baking skills and techniques a lot through it. It taught me food writing and styling and photography, and I got really into photography largely through that blog—and through my dad, who is a photography hobbyist. I loved being able to have my hand in all these various parts of the 6

34TH STREET MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER 28, 2021

food media space—being able to be the writer, the recipe developer, the photographer, the stylist, and then also the person doing the marketing and social media.

I liked being able to do all those things.

STREET: Why do you think that food is a passion that has stuck with you for so long?

AC: I think I started that blog just because I loved the baking aspect of it, and it was something I was doing with my free time. But I realized that I liked so many different aspects of what that blog was allowing me to do beyond just the baking of the food. There were all these other pieces to it that were important to me, and I think that it was something that allowed me to learn and grow. I feel like there's always something new to learn.

Now I'm a senior in college and starting to ask myself, “What are the things that I genuinely love doing that could potentially turn into something I do with my life?” When I was little, I thought that if you wanted to work in food, you had to be a chef. And, I always kind of knew that I didn't see myself working in restaurants. But as food media—these past five years or so—has become such a big industry, I realized that that might be something that I could do. That I might be able to turn this love of what I thought was a hobby into a career.

STREET: Was there anything specific that you were involved in that changed food from a hobby into a career?

AC: I came to Penn and immediately joined Penn Appétit, which I knew about coming in—my college counselor was actually familiar with the magazine and had told me about it when I was coming to tour. It was cool for me to see the workings of a mini magazine.

And, that was my first time really working on something like that with other people. I’d been doing this blog [for years] that was just me.

Then I started to work a few jobs that were vaguely related to the food space. I did some social content for some brands and people. And then I started Gourmand with Maggie Tang (W '22). I think that really proved to me that this was the space I wanted to be in. It started as a podcast. We started around April of 2020 when we were home for the pandemic. Through that, I’ve interviewed so many amazing people—some people who were my longtime heroes in the industry, and some people who I hadn't heard of but had these amazing stories. Just hearing their stories, how they got to where they are, their career paths, and their love of food and hospitality and all that it stands for, I realized that I shared that love. I think that solidified for me that this was something I was really interested in, beyond it just being a hobby.

STREET: Gourmand is working on a new project with New York restaurants. Can you tell us a little more about that?

AC: We're working on a card deck that features 52 hand–drawn illustrations of 52 different New York City restaurants. The illustrations were done by Amy Yang (W '22). It was me doing all of the layout and design of the cards, the card backs, and the box, Amy doing all the illustrations, and Maggie doing all the outreach. They're going on sale, and a portion of the proceeds are going to be donated directly to ROAR, which is a restaurant relief organization for New York City restaurants. It's a project we've been working on for probably about a year now. It's been a long time coming, and the cards are finally in production. They're

DINING GUIDE

set to launch either late October or early November.

That's a project that's been a labor of love, and we're really excited about it.

STREET: What is your favorite food?

AC: That's the hardest question you've asked so far. I'm probably going have to give a few answers.

I think I will forever have a soft spot for the foods of my childhood. I'm half Chinese. My dad is Chinese.

Both his parents are from China, but he was born and raised in New York. So his cooking, I love. It’s inherited from his dad and his mom, and it sort of riffs on Chinese classics that he grew up with. His clay pot pork that he makes is insane, and his Chinese chicken noodle soup is amazing. He uses udon noodles and all of these different kinds of tofu in the broth, and it's so comforting. And then on my mom's side, I'm also half Jewish, so there's all of the foods that we make for Jewish holidays. My mom and my grandmother's brisket and their potato kugel are also two favorites. On the sweet side, I love fruit

desserts. Anything that's got something carby, plus fresh fruit, plus some sort of creamy thing is my favorite category.

STREET: What are you passionate about outside of food?

AC: I'm an art student, so I love visual art in general. That's been an ongoing passion of mine, and it’s another thing that I never thought I was going to do. Growing up, I never thought I was going to be an art major in college, just as I never thought I was going to work in food.

I'm very close to my family. I have a younger brother. Family relationships are something that are definitely important to me, and friendships are really important to me too. I try to prioritize being able to spend time with them in everything I'm doing. I also have a real love of New York City, and I'm a staunch Brooklyn advocate. I’m so thankful to have grown up there.

STREET: What’s next for you after Penn?

AC: That's a big question. But weirdly, it doesn't

stress me out that much because I think I know I want to be in the food space in some way. Even though that's very vague, I think having some sense of the industry and world that I want to be in has made me feel excited. Obviously, I'm sad to graduate, but I also think that I feel very lucky to feel excited about what's next and not scared by it.

The industry that I want to go into and a lot of creative industries, I think, are just on completely different sorts of hiring cycles and timelines than the consulting [or] finance track[s] that so many people are on. I think I had to learn early on that it was just going to be different for me. And so that's part of why I'm more so excited than stressed out at not knowing exactly what's going to happen.

Ideally, I see myself working somewhere in the food space. I don't know what kind of role exactly, but I just want to find something that I'm excited to do, that I’m learning from, and that I have a connection to.

LIGHTNING ROUND STREET: Last meal you cooked?

AC: I made turkey chili last night.

STREET: What’s something people wouldn’t guess about you?

AC: I can wiggle my ears.

STREET: If you were a dining hall, which one would you be and why?

AC: Lauder College House. I remember they did those gourmet dinners that you could go to. I think I'd be that because it's a little bit of a trek, but it’s worth it if you go for one of those dinners that’s a little above average. I'm a firm believer in making the extra effort for that kind of thing.

STREET: If you could have any superpower, what would it be?

AC: I would like to fly.

STREET: There are two types of people at Penn …

AC: There are people who work in libraries, and there are people who just don’t.

STREET: Which are you?

AC: I’ve kind of turned into someone who mostly doesn’t.

OOH-LA-LA Open Daily. New Fall Menu and Cocktails

3611 Walnut Street louielouie.restaurant 267.805.8585 LL_Penn Fall Dining Guide 2021.indd 1

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DINING GUIDE

Photo by Gloria Lee

TL;DR Go to Marlei's Sweet Tooth for their whimsical and delicious dessert options.

HOURS: Closed Mondays, 2 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Tuesdays and Wednesdays, 2 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Thursdays and Fridays, 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturdays, 1 p.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays LOCATION: 433 West Girard Ave. PRICE: $

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Marlei's Sweet Tooth: An Ice Cream Lover's Paradise This new ice cream shop has creative sweet concoctions for people of all ages. | JEAN PAIK

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ocated on Girard Avenue, Marlei's Sweet Tooth is Philly's newest ice cream shop serving playful twists on signature flavors, making for a dessert experience that's far from boring.

Owner Jeriah Askew opened Marlei’s Sweet Tooth last July in honor of her now one–year–old daughter, Marlei. Her inspiration manifests itself fondly in the interior of the shop, with its bold teal and flamingo pink color scheme, whimsical illustrations of sundaes and popsicles, and high—top counters paired with brightly colored stools.

A swirl of sprinkles and plump flowers on the walls leads you down a flight of

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stairs to the Drizzle Lounge, a space dedicated for parties, celebrations, and special events. The decor encapsulates the look of a perfect childhood birthday party, giving an ambience that is charmingly nostalgic.

The ambience isn’t the only thing that’s sweet. Marlei’s offers 17 different ice cream flavors (three of them vegan), which can be mixed and matched to make your own decadent “dessert entrée.” Some of the many options include the Ice Cream Sammich, which comes with ice cream, fruit—stuffed waffles, drizzles of syrup, and a light dusting of powdered sugar. Candy fanatics can also go with the Marlei’s

Sweet Tooth, a combination of four ice cream scoops in a sprinkle—rimmed mug, a cone, and a load of sweet treats.

We decided to start with the Nana Split: three scoops—we chose the Cotton Candy Cheesecake, Cookie Monster, and Chocolate Abundance—bananas, hot fudge, billows of soft whipped cream, and topped with seasonal berries.

The dessert creation came in a clear, boat—like container, so that we could see the striking blue hues of the Cotton Candy and Cookie Monster on each side of the scoop of deep Chocolate Abundance.

Although it was a sizeable portion, it didn’t take us long to be scooping up the last bits of ice cream a mere few minutes later. The dish was surprisingly refreshing—the combination of the fresh fruit and ice cream offered a balanced level of sweetness.

We then tried a classic double scoop on a less classic red velvet cone. Our ice cream flavor choices were the Strawberry Shortcake, a customer favorite, and the Vegan Chocolate Peanut Butta

Baby made with oat milk.

The Peanut Butta Baby was reminiscent of a rich peanut butter cookie, while not being cloying. The Strawberry Shortcake was phenomenal and gave a more creamy contrast to the smoothness of the Peanut Butta Baby flavor. The highlight, however, was the mix—ins. The Peanut Butta Baby was scattered with chocolate chips and cookie dough bites, and the Strawberry Shortcake was embedded with bits of cake. These additions were not only delicious on their own, but they added an interesting textural element to the ice cream scoops, making for a satisfying bite each time.

Jeriah was incredibly kind and attentive throughout the entire visit. When asked about her intention behind the menu items, she said her focus has always been about giving customers options, and sharing fun spins on traditional ice cream flavors— the kind that make kids ask, “Ooh, what’s that?”

Marlei’s Sweet Tooth is fun, it’s bold, and its unique dessert concoctions will make you want to come back for more.

Photo by Gloria Lee

DINING GUIDE

A Love Story Between Coffee and an Anxiety–Ridden Student Unpacking my rollercoaster relationship with lattes and cold brews | JULIA ESPOSITO

W

hen I was a kid, I watched my dad drink coffee every day before work. He’d turn on the Keurig and fill the little side compartment up with water.

Steaming black coffee would dribble out of the machine.

I don’t remember the first time I tried coffee, but I do know that I absolutely hated it.

Throughout high school, I’d watch my friends come into first period with a new Starbucks drink each day. Iced Americanos and pumpkin spice lattes suddenly replaced 2% milk cartons at lunch. But making this switch had never appealed to me. I’d bring water. I never understood how anyone could withstand the taste of coffee enough to enjoy the benefits of being hyper awake that early in the morning.

Looking back now, getting a coffee in the morning would probably have saved my butt from falling asleep in class a couple of times. Still, at the time, I’d made my stance clear. I was the coffee hater.

Everything changed when I came to Penn.

Even though I was waking up much later in the day, studying became a lot harder. I had never really had to try much in middle or high school—I’d remember things and that’d be it. Deep into my first semester of college, though, I realized that wouldn’t cut it. I had far too many readings and problem sets to finish, and yet, after a few problems, I would get distracted. I needed a solution.

I just didn’t realize that solution had been sitting in front of me the whole time.

I went from hating coffee to becoming nearly dependent on it during midterm season. Without the drink, I’d barely be able to get through a stack of biology flashcards or type up an essay for my politics class. Each week, I’d find

new coffee shops and make it a treat prior to studying. The taste of a latte or cold brew excited something inside me, giving me the motivation to leave my dorm and pull out my textbooks.

Studying was no longer a chore, but something that I could use as an excuse to buy coffee.

I'll admit that I didn’t love the taste at first, but if I added enough sugar and milk, I could ignore the bitterness. Over time, my brain started to enjoy it anyway. It made me feel alert and ready to take on the world.

I remained semi–dependent on coffee for a while. Occasionally, I’d cut back to save money or take a break when my workload was lighter. I’d even find at–home alternatives since $5 tall lattes at Starbucks took a large toll on my wallet. But it was never that difficult to jump right back into drinking it frequently.

My first job caused my addiction to re–ignite. Then, when the school year started, I took a break until midterm season came around again.

Things changed for the worse around the time that quarantine started. My depression and anxiety only increased as I was forced to stay inside and find things to do, all while feeling terrified that my parents would die. While I’d always struggled with some form of anxiety, COVID–19 exacerbated these issues. I quickly developed panic disorder and experienced frequent panic attacks, sometimes nearly every day of the week. They’d range from struggling to breathe to throwing up and almost passing out on my

bathroom floor.

Eventually, my brain put two and two together and realized that the days when I drank coffee were also the

nervousness, and fast heartbeat.

Studies have shown that people with anxiety who consume caffeine are more likely to experience panic attacks.

So I stopped drinking coffee. Actually, I became terrified of drinking it. I’d avoid the beverage at all costs. Even if I was in dire need of a boost, I’d refuse in fear of a panic attack. While this seemed like a better option, it really wasn’t.

This avoidance only became another manifestation of my anxiety.

I started going to therapy for my panic atIllustration by Brandon Li tacks in August. One of the first things my therapist mentioned days I was most susceptible to these was exposure therapy—I would panic attacks. Logically, this need to force myself into unmade sense. Caffeine imitates comfortable situations so I could symptoms of anxiety like jitters, get over them. At the top of that

list: drinking coffee.

I went from hating coffee, to drinking it for fun, to being terrified of it, to now forcing myself to drink it just to get over my intense fear. The first couple of times, I started slow. I’d get half caffeine at Starbucks. I’d get smaller cups. Eventually, I moved onto larger cups and more frequent visits to coffee shops.

Now I’ve almost entirely gotten over my fear of iced lattes.

Yes, there are still days when I have panic attacks, and my instinct is to attribute it to whatever’s in my Saxby’s cup. But then I remind myself that coffee has also been helpful. It’s gotten me through difficult study sessions.

It’s given me the motivation to finish articles. It’s pushed me to get work done and better myself.

Coffee has harmed me, but it’s almost made me stronger. I’m just not sure how to negotiate the two.

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DINING GUIDE

La Chinesca: A Mexican Chinese Restaurant that's ' 's Somehow Both and Neither Photo by Hunter Gaudio

This Spring Arts fusion concept is a manifestation of what happens when we toe the line between cultural appropriation and appreciation. | BEATRICE FORMAN

I

f there’s anything La Chinesca deals in, it’s slightly unapproachable cool.

Owned by 13th Street Kitchens, which operates brunch staple Café Lift and Franklin's Table’s KQ Burger, the restaurant feels like the rest of their arsenal. It’s a place you take an out–of–towner when you’re trying to impress—but not overwhelm—them with your Philly knowledge.

La Chinesca lives in a retrofitted Jiffy Lube on the corner of 11th and Spring Garden streets. And, eating there is exactly what you’d expect from dining in a gentrified auto body shop. That’s not bad so much as it’s transparently charming. The lighting is fluorescent and the bones are retro–industrial, with light pink diner–style tables and a long bar reminiscent of an

Austin Powers movie. The line of post–concert diners spilling out from Union Transfer wraps around the front. The wait staff wear sleek band tees bearing the restaurant’s name.

Everything at La Chinesca is refined, yet done in a way that’s meant to signal they don’t care about refinement.

And yet what I want most from this Chinese–American Mexican fusion concept isn’t overt polish. It’s large portions, homeyness, and an earnest appreciation for what the disparate cultures bring to the table.

Named after Mexico’s largest Chinatown, which is located near the United States– Mexico border in Mexicali, La Chinesca is supposed to riff on the intersection of cultures in the region. Co–owner Mike Pasquarello, Culinary Director Nicholas Bazik, and Execu-

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tive Chef David Goody made several trips to Mexicali and the rest of Northern Baja for research, reveling in how the cuisines work in tandem with one another. (Think fried rice and fried peppers served with Tecate, as Pasquarello told Eater.)

“I’m very aware that I’m neither Mexican nor Chinese,” Bazik said in the Eater interview, reflecting on his team’s decidedly non–Mexican, non– Chinese origins. “If I were to try to make an accurate representation of these cuisines and cultures, I’d have to live a hundred lives.”

Still, despite the trips to Mexico and the top–shelf ingredients, La Chinesca’s menu finds more parallelism than intersection—and, at times, a Westernized execution.

For starters, everything is served tapas style, with the standard recommendation being two to three small plates per person. Save for the implications of imposing a Spanish style of dining on the cuisine

of a country still recovering from the vestiges of colonialism, bite–sized portions somehow feel inauthentic here.

When I think of authentic Mexican food, I think of family. I think of oversized plates. I think of the end of pretension, not the superimposition of it—as though eating Mexican or Chinese food as these cultures intended somehow isn’t good enough.

The problem with La Chinesca isn’t that it’s bad Chinese food or bad Mexican food. The problem is that it’s a thoughtless mixture of the two, where fusion is defined as throwing a Chinese dish next to a Mexican one and calling it “elevated.” The menu’s supposed standout is a pair of birria tacos, where the accompanying consomé is a bowl of standard miso soup instead of a broth steeped in the meat’s brazing liquid. The pairing feels trite, and the tacos don’t need the soup, anyway. It detracts from the beef ’s sweet smokiness and dampens the flour taco shell, which is deliciously soft and prepared in house.

Similarly thrown together combinations are the salt and pepper squid Caesar and the baby carrots that run $8 for a plate. The salad, which is sea-

soned with sesame and shallots (for obvious reasons), feels like “just another Caesar, but with squid thrown on top” to quote my dining companion.

As for the baby carrots, they’re drenched in a garlic soy sauce so potent that it defeats the purpose. The entire plate tastes like bok choy.

Still, La Chinesca has moments of brilliance. Its take on chips and salsa is cheeky and smart, with puffy, crispy wonton chips standing in for tortilla chips. Compulsively snackable and an actual attempt at fusion, this sole appetizer sets the stage for a better La Chinesca, one that can move past route pairings into the true terrain of upscale fusion dining, where appreciation breeds experimentation.

All in all, La Chinesca is chic, and I’d be lying if I said I didn’t have a good time sipping mezcal distilled from snake venom in a place where mechanics used to take smoke breaks. But the restaurant isn’t what it sets out to be either, a brazen fusion eatery that reminds us what the best of cultural appreciation can look like. It’s a fun dining experience, sure. But in a time where it feels like chefs need to whitewash ethnic food to enjoy it, is that really all it can be?

TL;DR Fun drinks and appetizers, but not fusion food.

HOURS: Tues. — Sun. 4 p.m. — 10 p.m.

LOCATION: 1036 Spring Garden St. PRICE: $$/$$$

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DINING GUIDE

American Vegan Center Opens in Old City The center works to bring together history and delicious food—without animal cruelty. | EMILY WHITE

Courtesy of Vance Lehmkuhl

E

ver wondered why there are so many vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Philly? Of course, HipCityVeg and Dottie’s Donuts stand out as Penn favorites, but there are dozens of other veggie–centric menus that you’ve probably seen throughout the city. What you can’t tell from storefronts is what inspired these restaurants—and just how tied up Philly is in vegan history and culture.

This is what the American Vegan Center, which recently opened in Old City on Sept. 9, is trying to change.

Through a combination of speaker events, cooking classes, restaurant recommendations, and even a historical walking tour, Director Vance Lehmkuhl hopes to raise awareness about what being vegan actually means: not just flavorless bean curd and gory PETA demonstrations, but a delicious

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and sustainable diet that's been around for centuries.

Whether most residents know it or not, Philly’s role in “veg history” is rather large. Benjamin Franklin, for example, was the first person to try to bring tofu across the Atlantic. Sylvester Graham—known now as the “Father of Vegetarianism”—was introduced to the idea by Bible Christian activists in Philadelphia. The American Vegan Center hopes to highlight these as well as other historical figures in its walking tour.

But planning the walking tour wasn’t easy, in large part because all but a few small reminders of Philly’s vegan history are gone. Although historians have worked to preserve much of Old City, Lehmkuhl says that many important landmarks of vegan history were forgotten as more 'traditional' historical markers were saved.

One of the few physical mementos left is in Washington Square, the final destination of the center’s walking tour.

The structure seems rather simplistic— a horse drinking fountain constructed

by vegetarian and anti–vivisection activist Caroline Earle White—but it represents an important moment.

While historians might now regard her as an important figure, Earle White didn’t really set out to challenge the overall system of using animals for food and labor. Instead, she tried to make small changes that would improve the conditions of animals that were already in these situations.

“In around 1900, when you didn't really have cars yet and everything was being done by horses, it was unthinkable at the time to not have horses clogging the streets,” Lehmkuhl explains.

“So she was like, ‘Let's help them where they're at.’”

One of her major projects was constructing drinking fountains around the city, each with a basin for horses and another for humans. The fountain in Washington Square—which is unfortunately the only one of such fountains left—is unique because it also has a third trough for smaller animals like cats and dogs.

Another unintentional piece of vegan

DINING GUIDE

history is a marker for abolitionist Anthony Benezet, who many don’t know was also a vegetarian. Much like today, many people of the time cared about and advocated for multiple, intersecting causes.

The animal rights movement was deeply connected to movements for abolition, suffrage, and temperance, as well as religious communities like Quakers and Bible Christians.

Since he couldn’t rely completely on physical objects to paint a vivid picture of Philly's vegan past, Lehmkuhl had to get creative with other ways to make this history feel real: He began making cartoons.

While we might not have historical landmarks to Comic of Caroline Earle White. Courtesy of Vance Lehmkuhl commemorate all of these “That really was an imto follow in their footsteps. people, I’d like to think that portant thing to happen for “This kind of eating made they would be proud of their people realize, ‘Oh, you can have everything that you want Director Vance Lehmkuhl hopes without causing animals to suffer and die for it,” Lehmkuhl to raise awareness about what says. “Opening that space for

"

being vegan actually means: not just flavorless bean curd and gory PETA demonstrations, but a delicious and sustainable diet that's been around for centuries.

renderings—and the fact that someone is digging up details about their work around veganism and animal rights.

Although the activism might have waxed and waned throughout history, the late 20th century saw a burst of new vegetarian–concept restaurants. One of the earliest waves began with New Harmony, a beloved vegetarian and kosher Chinese restaurant (which sadly closed its doors for good in 2019). After New Harmony opened in Chinatown in 1989, many of its workers were inspired to start their own restaurants like Singapore Kingdom of Vegetarians and Cherry Street Chinese (both of which are now closed).

Philadelphia that a lot of non–Asian people are really not that aware of,” Lehmkuhl says. “We try to bring that history and [show] that people were doing this work back in the 80s.”

Other important veggie–friendly restaurants of the time were Nile Cafe on Germantown Avenue (now the oldest remaining vegan restaurant in Philly), Horizons at South Street, and Alfonsi Austin’s vegetarian snack bar at Reading Terminal Market. Compared to the rest of the country, Philly's vegan food scene was uniquely explosive—in large part thanks to the early pioneers who inspired others

people to think about it is an important step [that] I think often gets overlooked.”

Of course, vegan dining is the biggest contemporary aspect of the American Vegan Center’s work—both through

restaurant recommendations and (in a post–COVID–19 era) events. The center has a designated events room, which can seat around 30 people for presentations, cooking classes, book talks, and dinners.

You’ll have to visit the center if you want the full list of restaurants to try, but Lehmkuhl offered a few of his favorites in the meantime: Blackbird Pizza, Miss Rachel’s Pantry (for the vegan matzo ball soup), and Khyber Pass Pub (for vegan nachos and seitan wings). And if you just can’t sacrifice the quintessential cheesesteak, Lehmkuhl suggests Triangle Tavern—the most recent victor of the vegan cheesesteak contest he started in 2014.

Whether you’re a longtime vegan looking for the best food in the city or a history buff who wants to know all about animal rights activism in Philly, the American Vegan Center in Old City is undoubtedly the best place to start.

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DINING GUIDE

Sophisticated Yet Unfussy Small Plates and Pizza Await You at Sally

Photo by Sukhmani Kaur

A neighborhood restaurant that defies any expectations of what your local pizza joint should be | KARIN HANANEL

S

ally’s sophistication is wholly apparent, even on a Sunday at 5 o’clock.

Sleek yet casual, it brings something new to the food scene of restaurants peppered throughout Rittenhouse and Fitler Square’s residential enclaves. And yes, even though the usage of "it" has established the fact that we’re not discussing a person, Sally seems like a local even though she’s been around for less than a year.

Boasting sourdough pizzas, an in–house natural wine bottle shop, and small plates, Sally isn’t a completely unique concept. Nevertheless, its execution is enough to make it shine. On a warm and sunny evening, it would be blasphemous not to take advantage of the restaurant’s extensive patio and sidewalk space.

Colorful flowers dot the stark white and black decor while aromas of freshly–baked bread envelop you. The occasional impromptu dirt bike race down 23rd Street makes itself known, too.

For a starter, it’s nearly impossible to go wrong with the house ricotta covered in local honey, bee pollen, and edible flowers, garnished with a bit of salt. The dish comes with Sally’s thoroughly–toasted sourdough, which features blackened edges that look like they were painted on for effect. A thick smear of the honeyed ricotta on the toast contains multitudes of flavor.

The mild and creamy cheese balances the sweetness from the honey and the floral pollen, and the salt cooked into the bread as well as the salt from the garnish anchor each bite. And that’s only the beginning.

After, we went for the tomato and mozzarella salad featuring Liuzzi mozzarella nodini, field tomatoes, and Italian vinaigrette. While at times it was overly simple, the salad was fresh, mild, and mouthwatering. The nodini are milky pearls that go well with the sweet and acidic tomatoes. Overall, a decent but unremarkable dish that's followed by the much more remarkable main event: the pies.

The spirit of returning to elevated and modern basics is apparent not only in Sally's pizza, but in everything the restaurant does.

Out came the steaming hot "Pizzaz" and soppressata pies, and the underwhelming salad faded quickly into oblivion. The soppressata pie was just the right amount of oily—dripping but not drowning—and features tomato, cheese, and fermented pepper jelly to compliment the smokiness of the meat.

The Pizzaz pizza is an elevated ode to the

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South Philly pizza classic that originated at the Palizzi Social Club. The peppers infuse spice and sweetness into every slice. They’re accompanied by American cheese and some fresh tomato, which come together to make each bite sweet, briny, and spicy. True to its name, it brings an appropriate amount of flair to the dinner table and one’s taste buds.

On both pizzas, large black air bubbles indicate that even the base of this sourdough pizza is something to be appreciated and seen, given the intensity that’s infused into cultivating sourdough in the first place. The spirit of returning to elevated and modern basics is apparent not only in Sally's pizza, but in everything the restaurant does.

There's little to criticize about Sally, but something's always bound to be imperfect. After multiple attempts at contacting the shop, management remained unresponsive to our team regarding photo permissions as well as questions about a possible interview. However, a press–related hiccup shouldn't disqualify Sally from getting our recommendation.

From the understated plates, silverware, and furniture, to the black– and–white color scheme, to the unassuming yet brilliant and imaginative dishes, Sally matches the sophistication of its neighbors while maintaining its minimalism. A true neighborhood joint for the 2020s, Sally isn’t the pepperoni pie–slinging pizzeria in your hometown—it’s way better.

TL;DR Pizza, small plates, and natural wines are all at your disposal at this Fitler Square gem.

HOURS: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Wednesdays through Sundays LOCATION: 2229 Spruce St., Philadelphia, PA, 19103 Price: $$

DINING GUIDE

Philly’s Best First Date Restaurants Take the stress out of picking a great first date spot by checking out some of our top picks. | EMILY MOON

S

o you finally asked out the cute kid in your econ class or made a move on your dreamy hallmate—now what? Wow your crush with an amazing first date restaurant, of course. Need inspiration? Here are some of Street’s top picks for a romantic dinner for two.

Barbuzzo

Located on 13th Street, Barbuzzo offers top–notch Mediterranean meals that you can easily eat with your hands. The food is fresh and, for the most part, first–date friendly (no difficult—to—eat food that might get all over you). Plus, with a string of cute restaurants and shops dotting 13th Street, Barbuzzo's block is great for hanging out before your meal or for a perfect post–dinner stroll. Stop by Marcie Blaine for some artisanal chocolate for dessert or, if your first date went that well, Verde to look through jewelry and other gifts.

With plates like grilled Spanish octopus and porcini–crusted hanger steak, Barbuzzo offers an impressive range of Mediterranean food. Plus, they have charcuterie boards made in–house for cheese lovers to share. If you’re interested in taking your date to Barbuzzo, make sure to snag a reservation—this Center City hotspot fills up fast.

Location: 110 S 13th St. Price: $$ Hours: Mondays through Sundays 5p.m. to 11p.m.

Loco Pez Taqueria

If you and your date are looking for a fun and casual place to meet up for dinner, Loco Pez is your spot. With locations in West Philly, Grad Hospital, and Fishtown, this colorful and festive Mexican restaurant is sure to be a great time with some great food (and drinks). Not only does Loco Pez offer a variety of fun beverage flavors like the Chevelle, which features passion fruit puree, but their classic margarita is also refreshing and packs a major punch.

Start with some chips and salsa to pair with some classic Mexican dishes. Or, venture to the "Menu Vaquero" (the cowboy menu) if you’re looking for burgers, chick-

en sandwiches, or fun variations on hot dogs. With tons of options for even the pickiest eaters and many ways to customize your meal, Loco Pez is a great casual first date spot to spark good conversation while eating some nachos and sipping on a marg.

Location: 4631 Baltimore Ave. (West Philly), 700 South 20th St. (Graduate Hospital), or 2401 East Norris Street (Fishtown) Price: $$ Hours: Mondays through Sundays 11a.m. to 10p.m.

Bleu Sushi

Bleu Sushi is a BYO date night spot featuring high quality sushi and other Japanese favorites—did we mention they offer sushi boats? Okay, ordering an entire sushi boat might be a little extra for a party of two. But Bleu Sushi boasts tons of other options, ranging from sashimi and rolls to hot dishes like teriyaki and noodles.

It’s dimly–lit with a romantic ambience, making it a great spot for sushi lovers hoping to bond over their shared affinity for fresh Japanese food.

The one downside?

Bleu Sushi doesn’t offer complimentary water. So if paying for VOSS water doesn’t seem that appealing, fill up your water bottle before you head out. Or, if you’re really grasping for conversation topics, you can bond with your date by complaining about the policy together (but let’s hope this isn’t necessary).

And if you’re looking for a reason to leave the date a bit early

that isn’t a fake phone call ... go “get water” instead!

Location: 262 S 10th St. Price: $$ Hours: Mondays through Sundays 11a.m. to 10p.m.

Via Locusta

Via Locusta’s intimate atmosphere is perfect for getting to know that cute student from your study group over a plate of handmade pasta. Their excellent modern Italian cuisine is a sure crowd pleaser and their fresh ingredients are proudly sourced from around Philadelphia. We highly recommend their Happy Hour, with $8 spritz drinks, $5 beers, and $7 glasses of wine, not to mention their selection of small plates like tuna tartare or focaccia with whipped honey butter and bee pollen.

Perfect for a low–stakes (but still classy) meetup for drinks at their sleek black and gold bar, Via Locusta is a great idea for people testing the waters—but is also a promising choice for those ready to commit to a full romantic dinner. Their Happy Hour is Monday to Thursday from 4 – 6p.m., or Friday through Sunday from 3– 6pm.

Location: 1723 Locust St. Price: $$ Hours: Mondays through Sundays 4p.m. to 11p.m.

Whether you decide on any of these restaurants or go for a quick date at a food truck nearby, just remember that the company is more important than the food. But, of course, choosing an amazing locale can definitely help get sparks flying.

Good luck!

Las

Cazuelas Restaurant www.lascazuelas.net (215) 351-9144 426 W Girard Ave

BYOB Authentic Mexican food Great for Private Parties $5 plate sharing fee

HAVE YOUR next Fiesta with us!

SEPTEMBER 28, 2021 34TH STREET MAGAZINE

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DINING GUIDE

From grab-and-go favorites to sit-down meals, Shop Penn has options to suit every diner, price point, and cuisine. With more than 40 dining destinations on or around campus, you’ll be sure to find whatever you’re craving.

Shop Local.

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Calling all Movers Shakers + Quakers

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Spurritos Shakes + Salads

Your favorite Shop Penn spots are serving up a taste of Fall flavors!

Baby Blues BBQ Federal Donuts Goldie Greek Lady High Street Provisions Hip City Veg honeygrow Just Salad KQ Burger Louie Louie Bistro & Bar Metropolitan Bakery

New Deck Tavern O’Chatto Panera Bread PaperMill Fresh Asian Kitchen Pitruco Pizza Saxby’s Smokey Joe’s SoBol Philly Spread Bagelry United by Blue White Dog Cafe S E P T E M B E R 2 8 , 2 0 2 1 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E 17

DINING GUIDE

For Pizza Delivery, Call Our Neighbors at Pizza Plus West A new local spot for bread and cheese lovers, vegans and non–vegans alike | MADDIE MULDOON

Photo by Andrew Yang

I

lounge at a picnic table in Pizza Plus West’s backyard garden on one of September’s cooler nights, chatting with two of the restaurant's employees. The bulk of our conversation relates to a prevalent problem in West Philadelphia: a lack of good pizza for delivery.

Is there a pizza delivery place near Penn’s campus that's a staple?

A go–to phone number to call if you want a pie brought right to your door?

There is now.

Pizza Plus West opened its doors just three months ago. The success of Pizza Plus South, founded a year prior in South Philly, prompted the launch of the West Philly shop.

Menu staples: unique pie toppings ranging from chicken parmesan to cheeseburger, pan pizzas encrusted with fried cheese, and— most unique of all—a vegan option for every item on the menu.

For every item? At a pizza place?

Yes, at a pizza place. I was shocked too.

A stone’s throw from campus on 48th and Spruce, Pizza Plus West is also a manageable distance for an outing. My walk from 40th and Locust is just under 20 minutes.

The first thing I notice upon arrival is the shop's retro–style menu and elaborate pizza–themed mural on the right–hand wall.

I put my trust in the all–know-

ing staff as I order at the counter and make my way to the garden.

Bamboo gates strung with lights tuck the seating area away from the rest of West Philly, creating an environment well–suited for a backyard barbecue. I sit at a picnic table tucked in the back corner and excitedly await my food, a tangerine Jarritos soda in hand to satiate me.

To my delight, the food is all brought out at once.

I first indulge in the curly fries ($5), served with a cheese sauce that I opted to make vegan. The faux cheese is to die for, the complement to a curly fry that I never knew I needed.

The pesto pie ($21) is up next, a specialty recommended by the manager. Satisfying, cheesy, not too much pesto—the pizza is as expected, and a welcome treat.

The star of the night? A deep– dish chicken parm pie ($18) rimmed with fried cheese and topped with ample mozzarella.

The aroma of warm, freshly baked bread and melting cheese intoxicates me before I even open the box. It's my favorite item that I ordered, and it's certainly something to write home about.

The next time you find yourself craving the ease of warm, delivered pizza (vegan or not), give our new neighbor Pizza Plus West a try. It won’t disappoint.

TL;DR:

Great pizza for delivery near campus. Vegan options too!

HOURS: 11 a.m.–9 p.m. daily LOCATION: 4814 Spruce St. PRICE: $/$$ Photo by Andrew Yang

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DINING GUIDE

IF YOU LOVE ICE CREAM BUT FRUIT IS YOUR JAM, HEAD OVER TO THE

Chilly Banana Who said healthy has to be boring? | ARIELLE STANGER

N

estled behind a wall of South Philly artist Isaiah Zagar’s mosaics is a warm wooden entryway.

The satisfying sound of wind chimes welcomes you in, and a VHS tape of John Carpenter’s "The Thing" plays on an old–fashioned yellow television. It’s a whimsical and colorful room with potted plants and posters galore. The Chilly Banana is the perfect spot for an anytime pick–me–up that’s equal parts fun, tasty,

set combos, and most of which are fully vegan, but you can feel free to craft your own concoction as well. Their menu also features shakes, pops, and a banana jam for your pup. They’re planning to serve whips made from other fruit bases in the future and might even serve breakfast at the storefront sometime soon.

Founder Kevin Kramer, sporting banana Crocs, tells me that when he tried his first banana whip ten years ago, his “brain exploded.” He started to wonder Photos by Arielle Stanger where else this sweet and healthy treat could be enjoyed, and envisioned it at the music festivals he and his partner love to attend. “This experience planted a seed, which eventually grew into a food truck and now a brick and mortar.” He also tells me that the South Philly community has been gracious since day one, and that there’s “so much positivity.” Looking at the walls of the shop, covered with flyers for community activities, this energy

and healthy.

Banana “nice” cream is a somewhat recent trend, but it’s definitely here to stay.

Bananas are frozen and then blended, revealing a texture much like soft–serve.

The Chilly Banana excels at this—their whips are thick and creamy, don’t melt too quickly, and taste like a tropical vacation. But, they really set themselves apart with their “Banana Jams.” Think of an ice cream sundae, but with nice cream, homemade fruit sauces, dark chocolate, and endless nut butters. They have pre–

seems ever–present.

Kevin presents me with four banana jams. First up is the Banana on Vacation, with homemade mango sauce, crushed pineapple, toasted coconut chips, and coconut milk whipped cream. It’s an experience, and with each bite I feel further away from South Philly and closer to an island in the Caribbean. Tangy, tropical bliss.

Next, I sample the seasonal Banana Chip Mint. This one is topped with homemade chocolate sauce, chocolate chips, chocolate sprinkles, and fresh mint.

I was skeptical of the banana–mint flavor combo, but it totally works. This jam is rich yet refreshing, and ideal for mint chip ice cream lovers like myself.

Third in the lineup was the Fancy Pants, drizzled with homemade raspberry sauce, sprinkled with crushed pistachios, and topped with a dollop of coconut milk whipped cream. This combo seems simple, but it’s anything but: the tartness of the raspberry brings vibran-

cy, the nuts provide texture, and the whipped coconut cream is luxurious.

Fancy indeed, but not a try–hard.

Finally, it’s time for their top–seller, Choco–PB–Crunch, with homemade chocolate sauce, creamy peanut butter, peanuts, and chocolate chips. There’s a reason this combo is a classic. As the name suggests, it’s creamy and crunchy and loaded with chocolate peanut butter flavor. What more could you ask for?

A visit to the Chilly Banana is an experience for all of your senses, and certainly won’t fail to make you smile. Their banana jams are delicious, and though they might feel indulgent, leave you feeling energized and light on your feet—truly a treat for your mind and body.

TL;DR:

Good vibes and healthy sweet treats—what more can you ask for?

HOURS: Closed on

Mondays and Tuesdays, 1pm to 9pm Wednesdays through Fridays, 12pm to 9pm Saturdays, 12pm to 6pm Sundays

LOCATION: 932 East Passyunk Ave.

PRICE: $

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DINING GUIDE

Alex Tewfik Talks the Future of Philly's Food Scene The Philadelphia magazine food editor breaks down how the COVID–19 pandemic changed the restaurant industry—and what we can expect from its comeback. | HANNAH LONSER

I

f there’s anyone who’s an authority on the ins and outs of Philadelphia’s food scene, it’s Alex Tewfik.

From his humble beginnings as an ice cream scooper at Friendly’s to his current role as food editor for Philadelphia magazine, Tewfik has tracked the local restaurant industry ever since the city’s monumental rise to the status of a foodie destination.

But despite the years of food–writing experience that Tewfik had under his belt by the start of 2020, nothing could have prepared him for the havoc that the COVID–19 pandemic would wreak on the restaurant industry. While stay–at–home orders and social distancing guidelines fundamentally altered the way that restaurants operated, the media’s coverage of the field was forced to adapt as well.

“Everything got weird. My job doesn’t feel the same as it used to,” Tewfik says. “The world changed; the world is different now.”

As the pandemic pulled back the curtain on the institutionalized injustices that plague our society, the biggest change that Tewfik has seen in the way that journalists cover food and drink has been the stories that they choose to spotlight.

“The pandemic exposed everything—it exposed all of the inequities, all of the injustices in the industry, but on top of that, the vulnerability of the industry itself. It was the great equalizer,” Tewfik says. “The restaurant world— as much fun as I had [working] in it—is just a tough world. I wrote a big piece, a feature, last summer about the future of the restaurant industry. Basically, I was saying that we can’t go back to the way that it was because we know too much now. It was my first time ever writing about the injustices and the hardships from the worker’s perspective—and not the employer’s perspective.”

The pandemic, in short, was a reckoning—both for the restaurant industry and those assigned to cover it.

Major outlets have been forced to reconsider what stories they have an obligation to tell, as well as which voices they have a responsibility to amplify. Tewfik hopes that the resulting shift in outlook is here to stay.

“My whole job, I always thought, was about the owners and the chefs—the people in power. And then all of a sudden, the story became not about them anymore. It became about the workers who were experiencing this stuff. That is a whole new mindset.”

In terms of what the food industry itself will look like after COVID–19, Tewfik envisions a bright future for Philly’s eateries. With increasing vaccination rates paving the way for more local favorites to re–open their doors and welcome back diners at full capacity, Tewfik explains that there’s a newfound sense of optimism in the air.

20 34TH STREET MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER 28, 2021

Illustraton by Isabel Liang “It feels like the restaurant scene in 2013—everything was very new and very collaborative. Everyone realized at the same time, ‘Oh my god, Philly has something,’” Tewfik says. “Now we’re back to 2013. Everyone is trying new things because they can now. There are no rules anymore because the pandemic took away all of our rules.”

“For example, now I’m seeing all these popups. There was a time where all of these popups and collaboration dinners died out in the early 2010s, but they’re back. It’s just cool to see that initiative. People are excited again about [food]. They’re excited because they don’t know what the future is.”

In addition to seeing more creative risk–taking on the menu the next time you venture into Center City for a meal out on the town, you can also—according to Tewfik—expect to witness a revival of the middle–class restaurant, a brand of eatery that has taken the back seat since Philly landed a place on the culinary map.

Nestled in between the fast–casual pizza joint and the high–class restaurant that you’d only be treated to when your parents come to town, the middle–class restaurant is one that you’d frequent once a week or pick for a low–key first date.

“I think we’re missing this middle class because basically all of our middle–class restaurants try to be high–end restaurants,” Tewfik says. “We have very few restaurants that are literally there for the middle, which has always been beneficial for the Philadelphia restaurant scene because if you have the people in the

middle trying to emulate the people on top, it makes the middle better. But there's something special about that restaurant that is not pizza–place–casual but still casual and easy."

But perhaps the most exciting opportunity that the rebirth of the restaurant industry provides is the ability to once again relish in the unique ambiance that eating out creates—especially after months spent chowing down on microwave and take–out meals at home.

“I just went to this old–school Italian restaurant in South Philly on Porter Street called L’angolo,” Tewfik says. “It was my dad’s birthday, and they shut down all of the lights and had the whole restaurant sing happy birthday to my dad. There was something so magical about being in a space like that, and that was one of the things that really reminded me of the romance of restaurants and what people go out to eat for. There’s a feeling that you get from it that you can’t replicate anywhere else—no other parts of life bring you that.”

While the COVID–19 pandemic upended the restaurant industry as we knew it, its return is certainly something to celebrate. Philadelphia's food scene will never look the same as it did when businesses first closed their doors that fateful March 2020 day. However, its revival still promises a sense of comfort and normalcy that diners everywhere have been craving.

“I eat out at a bunch of restaurants, but I’m really chasing the feeling that we had pre–pandemic. And I’m getting tastes for it now.”

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DINING GUIDE

Four Ethiopian Restaurants Bringing Flavor to West Philly Explore Ethiopian cuisine with these four restaurants just minutes away from Penn's campus. | KIRA WANG

I

t's well known that Philadelphia is the place to be if you’re looking for a stellar food scene. But one unique element that sets the city apart from other culinary capitals is its plethora of Ethiopian food offerings, especially in West Philly.

Beyond just serving up traditional dishes, Philly's Ethiopian restaurants anchor the city's large Ethiopian community, which was estimated to be between 7,000 and 10,000 people in 2019.

They are first and foremost cultural institutions that bring people together through a shared love of delicious food.

While many of us limit our takeout orders to tried–and–true Chinese or Italian locales, West Philly's Ethiopian food scene is home to plenty of places worthy of a spot your go–to list. There's no better place to dig in than your own neighborhood, after all.

Here are four West Philly spots to check out if you’re looking to gorge on injera, kitfo, wot, and more.

Abyssinia

Abyssinia is a favorite Ethiopian spot for many West Philly residents. With a bar in the front and a dining area in the back, Abyssinia is the place to be if you’re looking for generous portions and a lively dining experience. Known for their injera—a sour fermented flatbread—and their veggie combo of collard greens, lentils, cracked yellow peas, cabbage, and salad, Abyssinia is a must–visit if you’re looking for something filling. The kitfo, rare minced beef served with cottage cheese and collard greens, is a personal favorite. And while their service isn’t necessarily the quickest, the food is definitely worth the wait.

Location: 229 South 45th St. Hours: Monday through Saturday: 9:30 AM — 2:00 AM, Sunday: 10:00 AM — 12:00 AM Price: $$

Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant

Located right next to Abyssinia is Meskerem—a family–owned restaurant that treats you like one of their own. From its intimate atmosphere to its home–cooked, mouth–watering dishes, Meskerem offers comforting food in a welcoming dining environment. With classic dishes like sambussas, 22 34TH STREET MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER 28, 2021

Photo by Andrew Yang dhoro wet (chicken stew), and kitfo on the menu, everyone is sure to find a meal they'd enjoy. Opt to order one of their big family style combos if you’re looking to try a little bit of everything or wanting to share with friends. They can easily feed four to five people for around $10 per person.

Location: 225 S. 45th St. Hours: Wednesday through Monday: 12:00 PM — 10:00 PM, closed Tuesdays Price: $$

Kaffa Crossing

Kaffa Crossing serves up high–quality, hearty Ethiopian food and ethically traded African coffee in a casual, almost café–like setting. This spot serves every Ethiopian dish under the sun including breakfast foods like fir–fir, hummus platters, and traditional tibs. Looking for a place to catch up with friends over a filling meal? Stopping by

Kaffa Crossing is a must.

Location: 4421 Chestnut St. Hours: Monday through Sunday: 10:00 AM — 10:00 PM Price: $

Gojjo Bar and Restaurant

Gojjo Bar and Restaurant serves more than just classic Ethiopian favorites. This spot is also known for its delicious Kenyan and Tanzanian offerings as well as their fresh takes on pub classics (Ethiopian Cheesesteak, anyone?). An intimate spot located on 45th and Baltimore, Gojjo is the place to be if you’re looking for a late–night spot with good food, good drinks, and good vibes.

Location: 4540 Baltimore Ave. Hours: Monday through Sunday: 4:00 p.m. — 2:00 a.m.

Price: $$

DINING GUIDE

Amanda Shulman is Throwing a Dinner Party—And Everyone's Invited Meet the Penn alum who took her supper clubs from a college apartment to a Rittenhouse restaurant, with a few pit stops along the way. | DENALI SAGNER

A

manda Shulman (C ’15) clinks a glass with a spoon until the room gets quiet. Her curly hair sits in a loose bun on top of her head, and she sports a lovingly worn–in black apron. For a few seconds, a hush hangs in the air as diners shift in their seats to catch a glimpse of the chef.

“Hi everyone,” Shulman says after a moment, breaking the silence. “I’m Amanda.”

By all accounts, this seems like the setup to an intimate dinner party hosted by a friend, rather than a five–course meal served by a culinary star. But, therein lies the entire point.

This bespoke dining experience occurs at Her Place Supper Club, a half–dinner–party–half–restaurant tucked away on Sansom Street near Rittenhouse Square. It’s a small and unassuming space, decidedly nondescript except for the neon “Her Place” sign in the window. Inside, wooden tables are set up closely enough to create a feeling of intimacy, but not too close that it feels crowded. The kitchen is in direct view of the dining room so guests can watch all of the action. A print of Philippe Henri Noyer’s “Source Brault” stands alone as the space’s only decoration. On looks alone, Her Place undersells itself.

But Her Place isn’t about kitsch. No suit–clad waiter pulls out your chair on your way in, nor is there an extensive menu full of fruity cocktails and complicated desserts. In fact, there’s no menu at all. There’s just Shulman, her small team, and her impeccable culinary abilities.

While Her Place opened as a pop–up in June 2021, this isn’t Shulman’s first rodeo in the world of the “supper club.” As a sophomore at Penn, she started making meals in her tiny campus apartment, bringing together disparate friends to enjoy her culinary labors of love. “[The supper clubs were] how I really got into cooking,” says Shulman. “I would go down to the Italian Market and buy cheeses or get a whole pig and carry it up.” She adds that she knew The Fresh Grocer (the now–defunct grocery store in what is currently Acme) so well that friends could call her from anywhere on campus, and she could tell them where to find an ingredient.

“I would make my Facebook status: four courses, thirty–five bucks, message me if you want to come,” she says. Guests didn't necessarily know each other, nor did they have any idea what they would be eating.

"They'd come with a bottle of wine," Shulman says, "and I would just cook.”

The legacy of Shulman’s college–era dinner parties comes through at Her Place. Guests gather outside the restaurant at 8:30 p.m. sharp. There are two seatings a day, Mondays through Thursdays. As I wait to enter, I can’t help but look around at the other diners. Millennial–seeming couples and friends climb

Photo courtesy of Amanda Shulman

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DINING GUIDE

out of Ubers and stroll up the block, paper bags of wine in hand.

Casualness is king here. Guests are instructed to sit anywhere they choose. After a brief greeting, Shulman explains how the night works. There are a few courses: some with one plate, some with multiple. The dishes might be the same as what was listed on Her Place’s website. But, they also might not be. While the set menu rotates roughly every two weeks, Shulman prioritizes cooking with what’s freshest, warranting some unscheduled switch–ups. She also, admittedly, gets bored and changes the menu when she feels like it. There are no substitutions. Everyone eats the same thing.

The guests’ only job: show up with an open mind and an empty stomach.

We start with cold clams topped with a pepperonata sauce. The plate is beautiful. The clams are nestled in a shallow white bowl, their bright red topping playing boldly off of the ceramic dish. My dinner date and I slurp them down in minutes. The cool, sweet peppers and fresh herbs pair perfectly with the shellfish. We’re sold.

A few minutes later, leeks in vinaigrette, a classic French dish, arrives. I’m not a huge leeks fan myself. But these ones, drenched in a mild and smooth olive oil sauce and topped with crunchy hazelnuts and fresh greens, catch me by surprise. Paired with a jammy soft–boiled egg, they’re perfect.

Shortly after the advent of her supper clubs, Shulman began “staging” (pronounced staj) at Philadelphia restaurants—industry speak for working at restaurants for free in order to gain skills. While in college, her favorite restaurant was the Roman style trattoria, Amis. One day, Shulman asked the chef if she could come stage. The management obliged.

Photo courtesy of Amanda Shulman 24 34TH STREET MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER 28, 2021

“I went in and I peeled potatoes for like eight hours and I loved every minute of it,” she says.

At the end of the day, she asked, "Can I please come back tomorrow?"

Shulman would go on to work at Amis two days a week for the next year–and–a–half. She also picked up a gig at The Bakeshop on 20th, a beloved Rittenhouse bakery.

Eventually, Shulman found herself bouncing between the two restaurants, catering lots of “hilarious frat meetings or Superbowl parties,” managing her work as a full– time student, and, of course, hosting her supper clubs.

The more time she spent in the kitchen, the more she began to see cooking as a possible career.

Our third course is a pithivier (a round, filled pastry), stuffed with ham, gruyere cheese, and greens, that sits on a creamy truffle sauce. Before it’s placed on each table, Shulman gives another short spiel, this time about truffles. She explains the various kinds of truffles, how they grow, and where to hunt for them. And, offers that for an extra fifteen dollars, guests can add truffle shavings onto their pastry.

I can say with complete certainty that this was one of the greatest things I've ever eaten. The fluffy yet crispy puff pastry melts in your mouth. The saltiness of the ham pairs perfectly with the gooey, mild cheese. The sauce is creamy and flavorful. It’s a rich course, almost too much for two people, but we eat the entire thing anyway.

After her Penn graduation in 2015, Shulman hoped Amis, her first love in the Philly restaurant scene, would give her a full–time job. Unfortunately, they weren't hiring. But another door would soon open for the young chef. Vetri Cucina—the namesake restaurant of renowned Philly chef Marc Vetri—needed some help.

“Vetri was the crème de la crème. The first time I ate a Vetri was with a couple of friends in college who took me for graduation. I was so nervous to eat there, I cried,” she says.

“This was a huge deal. And it was so magical.”

Shulman was starstruck. She went to Vetri to do a trial run in their kitchen. Around midnight, while cleaning a dish, the restaurant offered her a job.

“I said, ‘Are you sure?’” she remembers with a laugh. She started the next day and would stay at Vetri for the next two– and–a–half years.

After Vetri Cucina, Shulman moved to Bergamo, Italy. In exchange for housing and a crash course in fine Italian cooking, she spent four months working

for free. After that, she found herself in New York, working in the kitchens of Roman’s and Momofuku Ko. But, her biggest endeavor would soon appear in the form of another phone call from Marc Vetri. In August 2018, she packed her bags and moved to Las Vegas to become the Executive Sous Chef of Vetri Cucina’s Vegas location.

“I was so in over my head,” Shulman says. “We had this multimillion–dollar restaurant and here are me and my two friends, trying to figure it out. It was the most incredible learning experience.”

“The more time she spent in the kitchen, the more she began to see cooking as a possible career.”

While in Vegas, Shulman met the culinary minds behind Joe Beef, Montreal’s most famous—and arguably best—French restaurant (in Eater, restaurant critic Bill Addison wrote that “Joe Beef lives up to absurd expectations”). So, in June of 2019, alongside her Canadian boyfriend, Shulman packed up again, this time heading up north. She spent a year in Montreal before the pandemic hit, doing her “most impactful job” yet.

“I already knew how to cook at that point, but I had never really cooked French food. It was like learning how to speak a new language, but I already had the foundation,” she says. “That was a huge point in my career because it had been Italian, Italian, Italian, and I was bored.

I fell in love with French food."

Shulman’s French training at Joe Beef anchors much of what she cooks at Her Place. The next course—the main event—is a four–plate experience: chicken liver mousse with jelly and homemade sourdough, confit chicken leg and beans, pickley wings with mushrooms, and a fall salad of mixed greens, fresh apples, and savory granola.

I start with the salad, which is as fresh as advertised. The produce is notably delicious and the granola adds a nice crunch. Shulman emphasizes that she sources from local farmers, butchers, and fishermen. The high–quality flavor of the ingredients on the table is living proof.

The chicken leg confit is cooked to perfection and its accompanying beans are warm and filling. The mushrooms and sauce on the wings are acidic, but they pair well with the crispiness of the chicken skin. I’ll admit that I don’t really eat the liver—but the side of sourdough is the kind of bread you fantasize about eating. It’s clear that—despite all of her talents—baking is where Shulman really shines.

After making our way through the “chicken extravaganza” (Shulman’s words), our plates are cleared, and we

DINING GUIDE

await dessert. It’s been about an hour–and–a–half already, but it doesn’t feel like it. “Lost” by Frank Ocean plays in the background. In her opening remarks, Shulman jokes that “this is not a regular restaurant, it’s a cool restaurant.”

She’s right.

The onset of the pandemic didn't bode well for the restaurant world. Shulman was no exception. She waited it out in Montreal for a few weeks after everything shut down, but quickly realized normalcy wasn't coming back any time soon. She eventually moved back to her parents’ house.

The chef wouldn’t sit at home for long, though. Shulman decided it was finally time to open a restaurant of her own. While she initially looked for spaces in New York City, high rent prices turned her away. Eventually, she says, “I looked at apartments in Philly and I said, ‘Fuck it.

I'm going back home.’”

Her Place is a sort–of iteration of a supper club Shulman hosted in New York, which itself was an iteration of her college dinner parties. Back in her New York days, she explains, she and a friend from Penn started inviting guests to dinner via email and called it "Her Place." A small list of fifty friends turned into one of over 600 people. She was once again bringing together strangers over home–cooked meals.

So, when she moved back to Philly, it only felt right to keep the “Her Place” name.

I ask Shulman if she ever intends on opening a more formal restaurant. She’s not sure, but doesn’t think she will. With Her Place, Shulman can really connect with guests. “I'm literally making your food, I'm handing it to you, and I'm clearing your plate,” she says.

“A bigger, more traditional restaurant seems less fun now. It just seems like I would be pulling out a puzzle piece.”

Dessert is sourdough chocolate chip cookies and a slice of pistachio cake with chocolate mousse and whipped cream. Everything is delicious. The cookies are gooey and warm, the cake’s sweetness is balanced and rich, and the whipped cream is wonderfully light. Shulman goes five– for–five, finishing just as strong as she started.

It’s now 10:45 and the room begins to empty. A few diners go up to greet the chef and thank her. Others slip quietly out the door into the warm, early fall night. I’m full, happy, and truly impressed.

For Her Place and Shulman, the future is up in the air.

What started as an eight–week pop–up is now one of the city’s hottest restaurants. Shulman has a lot of grand ideas,

but for the next six months, the Supper Club is staying put. After that, only time will tell.

One thing, though, is for certain: Shulman isn’t leaving Philly any time soon.

“Philly's food scene is amazing. There's delicious food, but I also think the relationship among the chefs is really special,” she says. “The reason I've been able to be successful so far, I really believe, is just because I've had support from my chef network and restaurant family here.”

As we finish our interview, we chat about Penn, food, and life. I ask her where she ate when she was a Penn student—she notes Vietnam Café, Lyn’s, Abyssinia, and International Foods and Spices. We talk about how the neighborhood has changed. She asks about Street (she worked on the magazine briefly back–in–the–day) and about my classes. It should be noted that Shulman’s unequivocal kindness anchors her entire business model.

Without her generosity and compassion, she wouldn’t be able to create the kind of community around food that she so artfully does.

I thank her for chatting with me and commend her for the restaurant she’s built.

“It's cool,” she says, sitting back in her chair. “I'm proud.”

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DINING GUIDE

Carolyn Gross, FROM

Mise–En-Scene TO

Mise–En–Place How one Penn alum’s experience as a cinema studies major led her to the Food Network | JESSA GLASSMAN

Photo courtesy of Carolyn Gross

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“I

have to pinch myself,” she says.

Her sincerity and humbleness come across clearly, even over the phone. “I'm very happy and lucky and grateful to be where I am.”

When she first started college, Carolyn Gross (C ’09) could never have imagined that her future would be in food entertainment—she was a psychology major until the second semester of her junior year, and although she frequently hosted dinner parties and loved watching Barefoot Contessa, she dismissed her culinary appetite as nothing more than a hobby.

After four formative years of self–discovery and memory–making at Penn (as well as lots of slices from Allegro and BYOs at Branzino), Carolyn graduated with much more than a degree. Her decision to switch to a cinema and media studies major granted her connections, clarity, and rock–solid advice. She credits these experiences with inspiring her to jump at a job offer with the Food Network that combined all of her passions. Nearly ten years later, she has no intention of looking back.

As the director of production and development at the Food Network and Cooking Channel through Discovery Inc., Carolyn oversees the creation of shows at all stages, from picking out talent, to working on set, to making edits in post–production. She has worked on shows like Chopped, Holiday Baking Championship, Outrageous Pumpkins, and Man Fire Food. Carolyn believes that in order to work with food, one needs to know it intimately. She makes it a priority to both visit and read up on new chefs and restaurants, and, of course, to taste as much deliciously creative food as she can.

“While it's not a requirement that you have a love for food or cooking in order to work in food entertainment, I personally think it's a huge benefit in terms of understanding the subject matter, capturing its nuances, and enjoying what you're working on,” she says.

A love for food is not all that has helped Carolyn find success in food en-

tertainment. Her background in cinema and media studies at Penn contributed greatly to where and how she operates and why she does the type of work she does. Much like a movie studied in class, “When developing and producing a show, I'm starting with a concept or a talent, and then creating the world for the show via very deliberate decisions about creative casting, location, art, direction, set design, ingredients, graphics, music, lighting, and so much more,” Carolyn says. “These elements really work together to reinforce the show's overall premise and give the show a distinct identity so the audience has something to hook into and come back for.”

When asked about her favorite course, Carolyn enthusiastically recalls the semester she took a screenwriting class taught by Kathleen DeMarco Van Cleve.

In this class, Carolyn started a screenplay she's still working on to this day. She also met a future coworker who would help her to apply for her first entertainment job. Carolyn cites the course as the reason she changed her major to cinema

“TAKE RISKS AND DON’T BE A JERK.” CAROLYN GROSS and media studies and ultimately sought to work in a creative field, remembering that “she loved it,” and “was also completely terrified by it.” For Carolyn, the combination of love and a little bit of fear was evidence that what she was doing was worthwhile.

This message rings true in her short but sweet advice to students: “Take risks and don’t be a jerk.”

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DINING GUIDE

Quaker Kitchen:

A HOME–COOKED MEAL ON CAMPUS Take a seat and get to know Penn’s newest dining– plan–friendly culinary experience. | MEG GLADIEUX

Photos by Jesse Zhang

Photo by Meg Gladieux

W

hen I enter the kitchen, I’m greeted by a chef tossing salad. Behind him, a huge pot of water bubbles, and sauce is stirred over a stovetop. I’m hit with the smell of spices, sweet tomatoes, and garlicky bread baking in the oven. I immediately feel immersed in the kitchen, a sense of excitement washing over me as another chef asks me how I’d like my food prepared and carefully plates my meal. For a moment, I forget I’m in a dining hall.

Born out of a Penn Dining program that provided cooking expositions

to students with Bon Appétit chefs, Quaker Kitchen is the newest addition to Penn’s suite of dining halls. Quaker Kitchen uniquely runs on a reservation system, with a capacity of 75 people at any given time and an absolute threshold of 150 dishes served per night.

With no lines or crowds and no fights for a good table, Quaker Kitchen is a welcome respite from the overwhelming nature of crowded weeknight dining halls. But if you want to eat there, you have to plan ahead—reservations are limited and often fill up early in the day. The intentionality of making

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a reservation and sitting down for a meal after a long day of classes is, in and of itself, part of Quaker Kitchen’s intrigue.

While cooking demonstrations—a coming attraction of the dining experiment outlined by New College House West Director Trina Sokoloski—have yet to be fully integrated at Quaker Kitchen or New College House West at large, the promise of a homey dining experience is already budding at Penn’s newest campus eatery.

The path to Quaker Kitchen is admittedly disorienting. You have to walk

past the dining area positioned at the front of the building, around the courtyard, past the elevators, and through the lounges to reach the kitchen—effectively circling half of the first floor just to scan in and get your food.

Tiny electric candles sit on each of the tables. I can imagine a pair of first– years settling in here for a low–pressure is–this–or–isn’t–this–a–date meal spot.

The small capacity gives the space a sense of privacy, but the kitchen's public enough to residents of the building and people walking past that it doesn't feel uncomfortably intimate. There

are a handful of people who, like me, sit alone—taking in the food or checking their emails while they eat.

The menu shifts weekly. On this particular night, the kitchen is serving up classic Italian American fare: spaghetti and tomato sauce, salad, bread, and for dessert, tiramisu. Unlike the typical dining hall, which features a few different food stations, Quaker Kitchen serves a single meal (with different options for the central meat or a vegan alternative).

Though the smell of the meatballs and Italian sausage make me question my efforts to cut down on animal product consumption for a moment, I go for the vegan option: huge medallions of herb–roasted eggplant served with white beans and marinara sauce.

I don’t usually love eggplant, but this is delicious—it's gently roasted, mild, and slightly sweet, highlighting the vegetable's natural flavors rather than bathing it in unnecessary spice. The sauce is acidic and a bit under–seasoned for my taste, but I register a hint of red pepper flake that adds some dimension and makes it a good complement for the otherwise bland bed of spaghetti underneath.

An unexpected but welcome addition are the white beans, whose grainy quality provide a level of textural balance to the soft pasta that's been drowned a little too heavily in the hearty sauce. On the side is a roasted mushroom salad with a citrus dressing and sweet artichoke wedges, which serves as a much–needed bright and fresh counterpart to the heavy entrée.

The highlight of the meal is dessert: The slice of tiramisu has layers of mascarpone, pastry, and delicate espresso to perfectly cap a surprisingly satisfying meal.

Overall, the portion is generous enough that I have no desire for seconds, but not so large that I feel like I've overeaten—a challenging line to walk when it comes to dining hall noshing. The food's high quality is realistically inaccessible to the average

college student, unless they’re willing to shell out $20+ per person at a mid–priced sit–down place in Center City. It's the sort of comprehensive, well–thought–out meal I’d like to pretend I have the capacity to cook for myself in my dorm room kitchen.

As much I enjoy the food, the most special part of eating at Quaker Kitchen is certainly the ambiance of New College House West.

Not unlike Hill House Dining Hall, you can’t help but be aware that you're eating in the middle of a dorm, as you're fully in sight of people returning to their rooms after class or rushing off to the library under the weight of their backpacks. But with the outdoor spaces visible through the huge glass windows, the towering ceilings, and the overall modern design of the building, Quaker Kitchen creates a sense of openness that provides a certain reprieve compared to the enclosures at Hill House or Commons.

As I eat alone and take in the culinary experience, some students sit and chatter in small groups. One group heads outside with their food, settling at a picnic–style table in New College House West’s central courtyard. It’s quiet compared to the typical dining hall— there's no clatter of flatware, but rather a low hum and the distant sound of the chefs in the kitchen on the other side of the wall. It’s the perfect place for quiet conversation among friends, but it's equally friendly to solo diners who want a peaceful meal to themselves.

When I’m finished, I take my plate back to the kitchen, where I’m introduced to another quirk of Quaker Kitchen: You do your own dishes. No conveyor belts here—instead, I place my plate and cutlery in the large dishwasher adjacent to the kitchen. The gesture adds to the sense of having just eaten a home– cooked meal.

Quaker Kitchen is far from a replacement for Philly’s outstanding restaurant scene, and it's also not a consolation for the rigidity of life on a dining plan. But for those who live a meal–plan–based lifestyle, it’s a welcome alternative to the fast pace and crudity of a typical dining hall dinner.

Photo by Jesse Zhang

Photo by Jesse Zhang

TL;DR: So good it almost makes you forget you're in a dining hall. Almost.

HOURS: 5 p.m.–8 p.m.

Monday through Friday; reservation required

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DINING GUIDE

STATE SENATOR NIKIL SAVAL’S ELECTORAL DISTRICT:

In Food and Photos Photo by Roger Ge

Street asked State Sen. Saval what South Philly restaurants matter most to him. The answer lies in tapioca dumplings, enchiladas, and lots of worker solidarity. | BEATRICE FORMAN The first thing State Sen. Nikil Saval (D–01) learned from watching his recently immigrated Indian parents run a pizza parlor in Santa Monica was that the restaurant industry is hard. The second thing he learned was that solidarity among working–class people of color— not top–down organizing—is what gets shit done. “[My parents] had people from many different backgrounds across the citizen spectrum working in their kitchen. Papers or no papers, it didn’t make a difference, and my parents successfully procured documents for people who didn’t have them,” Saval says. “There shouldn’t be any barriers to entry … We need more freedom of movement.”

As glib as it sounds, food is central to Saval’s political compass. The former n+1 editor turned organizer cut his teeth with UNITE HERE Philly, where he staged boycotts for hospitality workers in the city’s stadium and airports before doing grassroots work for Bernie Sander’s 2016 presidential campaign and Reclaim Philly. And as for his politicking, he moves like a diligent line cook, focusing on precision and utility over high–profile, but impossible, fixes.

Case in point: His latest piece of legislation is a Fair Chance Housing bill that would bring the ethos of Ban the Box laws to real estate so that people re–enter-

ing society from the prison system have a shot at finding housing. Everything Saval advocates for—from a Green New Deal for schools to mandated paid parental leave—stems from a worker consciousness that was refined in kitchens and during demonstrations, over meals in mom– and–pop restaurants and piles of takeout containers.

“Good food takes time. It takes work.

It takes a lot of labor and investment and love. The people who deserve the most investment in the [hospitality] industry are the people that make and serve our food,” he says.

Saval’s district spans an array of interwoven immigrant communities in South Philly, from Cambodian and Vietnamese enclaves in Little Saigon to alternating blocks of Mexican and Italian restaurants in the Italian Market and along East Passyunk. His favorite things to talk about? The eateries that sustained his campaign, and now his first term in office, from dosas in Harrisburg to a Columbus Boulevard pizza joint, whose Indian–style pizzas remind him of recipe testing with his parents.

Street asked Saval to give us a tour of his district through the establishments he can’t live without. What transpired is a love letter to banh mis, pupusas, and chefs who go the extra mile for their blocks— all in Saval’s own words, of course.

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1.

Little Sicily Pizza II

My parents owned a pizza restaurant, and so many pizza establishments sustained our family throughout the pandemic: Gigi’s, Chiquita’s, Sally’s, Santucci’s, Angelo’s, Little Italy 2, Square Pie, Pizzeria Beddia, Pizza Shackamaxon, Pizza Plus, Pizza Brain. But I reserve a special place in my heart for Little Sicily II, an unassuming spot in a gas station plus strip mall just before the entrance to I–95 off Columbus Boulevard, which

has the usual pizzas and cheesesteaks.

But also, because it is Indian owned, [it] has a special “spicy menu,” crowned by a magisterial masala pizza. Studded with cubes of paneer and dusted with cilantro, this is the syncretistic immigrant pizza experience of one’s dreams, unearthing memories from childhood of my parents experimenting with flavors and pizza in an industrial kitchen with the same goal.

LOCATION: 1608 S. Columbus Blvd.

HOURS: Sun. — Thurs. 11 a.m. — 8 p.m.; Fri. — Sat. 11 a.m.

— 9 p.m.

Photo by Beatrice Forman

DINING GUIDE

2.

Artisan Boulanger Patissier

Excellent tofu banh mis abound throughout South Philadelphia, but my favorite is at Artisan Boulanger Patisserie, a Cambodian–owned bakery with images of the Eiffel Tower papering the walls. What makes theirs extraordinary is the depth of the curried tofu pressed by fresh, crunchy loaves of baguette.

Like many similar establishments throughout the city, Artisan Boulanger Patisserie is family owned, and through the

years, I’ve seen the owners’ kids grow up, and I’ve been lucky to sample a delicious brothy soup when the owners were considering opening a larger, Khmer– focused restaurant (something, based on that soup, I still hope they do). They are a key part of the city’s Cambodian population, which has endured war abroad and xenophobia in the United States, to become a fixture in our business community and politics.

LOCATION: 1218 Mifflin St. HOURS: Thurs. — Fri. 7 a.m. — 3 p.m.; Sat. — Sun. 8 a.m.

— 3 p.m.

4.

5.

Tamalex

Tamalex offers superb Honduran pupusas— warm pockets of beans and cheese, topped with a spicy coleslaw and a tomato salsa—and sublime, earthy, uncompromisingly spicy enchiladas rojas that I eat any time of day. We ordered regularly from here throughout the pandemic, and workers at Tamalex joined an effort to provide food donations to immigrant families, who were among the hardest hit [from COVID–19] and [were] otherwise left out of federal relief efforts. They hold that corner of 7th and Federal streets—and South Philadelphia more generally—like an anchor.

Photo by Roger Ge

LOCATION: 1163 S. 7th St. HOURS: 10 a.m. — 11 p.m. daily

Kalaya

I knew Nok, the chef at Kalaya, back when she was catering, and the idea of opening a restaurant was still just an idea. One of the most sparkling presences in Philadelphia and easily the best dressed, Nok is also a genius, and at Kalaya she holds fast to cooking food that she knows, refusing to soften or lessen powerful spice levels for cautious palates.

Having overcome the challenge of all immigrant restaurants—the extent to which one is free to cook one’s own food—this restaurant has emerged as one of the city’s indelible establishments. During the pandemic, Nok made it possible for restaurant workers to eat for free and delivered meals to frontline health care workers throughout the city. Together, we fed several dozen nursing home workers at St. Monica’s in South Philadelphia, when they were enduring incredible hardships and had voted to authorize a strike. I couldn’t imagine Philadelphia without Kalaya and without her.

LOCATION: 764 S. 9th St. HOURS: Mon. — Fri. 5 p.m.

— 9 p.m. ; Sat. — Sun. 4 p.m. — 9 p.m.

Photo by Beatrice Forman

3.

Le Virtù

Francis Cretarola and Catherine Lee, who own Le Virtù, are advocates for workers’ rights, for the undocumented, and for progressive causes all told. In writing, Cretarola has interpreted Italian American history as being part of working–class immigrant history, and both Cretarola and Lee argued for safe, worker–focused practices in the restaurant

industry during the pandemic.

Their courtyard on Passyunk Avenue is one of the most tranquil spots in all of Philadelphia, and the scripelle—soft crepes filled with ricotta and a mix of zucchini, eggplant, peppers, and onions—has been one of the most sustaining dishes in one of the most difficult times facing our city.

LOCATION: 1927 E. Passyunk Ave. HOURS: Mon. — Thurs. 5 p.m. — 10 p.m. ; Fri. 5 p.m. — 10:30 p.m. ; Sat. 4 p.m.

— 10:30 p.m. ; Sun. 11 a.m. — 2 p.m. and 4 — 9:00 p.m.

WEDNESDAYS IN SEPTEMBER STARTING AT NOON BENJAMIN FRANKLIN STATUE IN FRONT OF COLLEGE HALL

SEPTEMBER 29 Are We There Yet?: Thoughts on COVID-19 and the Return to Campus and Classrooms

Paul Sniegowski

Stephen A. Levin Family Dean of the College of Arts & Sciences and Professor of Biology Complete schedule and list of speakers

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