September 25, 2019 | 34st.com
DINING GUIDE
SEPTEMBER 25, 2019 TABLE OF CONTENTS 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 14 15 18 19 20 21 23 24 25 26 27 29 30 31
Love Letters to a Sourdough Starter Jembatan Review DaMò Review Kalaya Review Don't Be Afraid of Eating Alone Punch Buggy Brewing Company Cold Brew Roundup Don Barriga Review
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’ve had little time to cook this week. Subsisting mostly off cups of tea and bowls of reheated soup as I try to relieve myself from a lingering bout of the common cold, I read every piece in this issue wrapped in a blanket, deeply craving each plate of octopus, mie goreng, and “angry” pizza arrabiata I came across. But what I noticed most in many of these appetizing reviews was a common theme I hadn’t quite expected: the challenge of the price tag. Our Dining Guide remains our most well—read issue every semester, but I often have trouble reconciling our presentation of Philly’s best new restaurants with the fact that many of our student readers cannot afford them. Though I am no stranger to the worship of dinner party sovereigns like Ina Garten, and feel that food and the art of eating can be romantic to discuss, these topics are also fraught. There is much to be gained from the lessons in flavor ingrained in every piece of this issue — ideas of what tastes good together and what doesn’t, notes that you can take with you to the grocery store, dining hall, or wherever you find your food. Because as much as this issue is about hot restaurants, it also does its best to present dining as the heart of community. Food need not be fancy or expensive, so long as we cherish and embrace the intimacy of a meal, with ourselves and with others. Even a simple glass of cheap red wine or plate of brown bread and olive oil can impart a magic that is both spiritually and physically filling if we allow it to be. Regardless of the price or setting, you will find this enchantment in every sentence printed here, because food, in so many ways, is the source of life. And after all, as M.F.K. Fisher wrote, “When shall we live, if not now?”
June BYOB Review Sunset Social Review Domenic Vitiello Profile Sophie Burkholder, Special Issues Editor
Blume Review Heirloom Market Price Comparison Dock Street South Review Pizzeria Beddia Review Olly Review South Street Roundup Stina Review Taco Taco Mexican Review Chain Restaurant Bar Crawl Pizza Roundup Review Bloomsday Café Review Alimentari Review
PRICE RANGE PER DISH $ 5-9 dollars $$ 10-15 dollars 2
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
$$$ 15-20 dollars $$$$ 20+ dollars
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Annabelle Williams, Editor–in–Chief Dalton DeStefano, Managing Editor Daniel Bulpitt, Audience Engagement Director Lily Snider, Assignments Editor Ethan Wu, Media Director Allison Wu, Long–Term Features Editor Ryan McLaughlin, Word on the Street Editor Katie Bontje, Ego Editor Sam Kesler, Music Editor Srinidhi Ramakrishna, Developing Features Editor Bea Forman, Style Editor Shannon Zhang, Film & TV Editor Sophia DuRose, Arts Editor Sophia Dai & Eleanor Shemtov, Photo Editors Tahira Islam & Katie Steele, Copy Editors Kira Horowitz & Sarah Poss: Copy Editors Dean Jones & Jackson Parli, Video Editors Alice Heyeh, Print Director Ego Beats: Amanpreet Singh, Sonali Deliwala, Katie Farrell, Amy Xiang, Ananya Muthukrishnan, Margaret Dunn, Fernanda Brizuela Music Beats: Mehek Boparai, Melannie Jay, Teresa Xie, Petyon Toups, Julia Davies, Keely Douglas Features Staff: Zoe Young, Hailey Noh, Katrina Janco, Chelsey Zhu, Katie Bontje, Isabella Simonetti, Denali Sagner, Chris Schiller Style Beats: Diya Sethi, Karin Hananel, Sofia Heller, Mark Pino, Hannah Lonser, Hannah Gross Film & TV Beats: Shriya Beesam, Samantha Sanders, Anna Collins, Jonah Charlton, Aashray Khanna, Deren Alanay Arts Beats: Rema Hort, Sarah Yoon, Tsemone Ogbemi Design Editors: Gillian Diebold, Lucy Ferry, Jess Tan, Tamsyn Brann
Design Associates: Isabel Liang, Ava Cruz, Joy Lee, Dannie Watson, Manasa Sudunagunta, Rhys Floyd, Sudeep Bhargava Staff Writers: Ana Hallman, Arjun Swaminathan, Tara O’Brien, Hannah Yusuf, Sophia Schulz-Rusnacko, Jordan Waschman, Jessica Bao, Quinn Robinson, Layla Murphy, Anya Tullan, Hannah Sanders, Julia Esposito, Avery Johnston, Harshita Gupta Illustrators: Anne Marie Grudem, Brad Hong, Catherine Liang, Jake Lem, Reese Berman, Saranya Sampath, Jessi Olarsch, Christopher Kwok, Diane Lin, Jacqueline Lou, Isabel Liang, Sammie Yoon Staff Photographers: Hoyt Gong, Sophia Zhu, Diya Sethi, Adiel Izilov, Sally Chen, Mona Lee, Emma Boey, Amanda Shen, Sudeep Bhargava, Adrianna Brusie, Kelly Chen, Eli Cohen Video Staff: Sam Lee, Megan Kyne, Morgan Jones, Mikayla Golub Copy Associates: Kate Poole, Serena Miniter, Erin Liebenberg, Lexie Shah, Carmina Hachenburg, Luisa Healey, Agatha Advincula Audience Engagment Associates: McKay Norton, Rachel Markowitz, Kat Ulich, Brittany Levy, Jessica Bachner, Maya Berardi, Stephanie Nam Cover by Ethan Wu & Jess Tan Contacting 34th Street Magazine: If you have questions, comments, complaints or letters to the editor, email Annabelle Williams, Editor–in–Chief, at williams@34st.com. You can also call us at (215) 422–4640. www.34st.com
©2019 34th Street Magazine, The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc. No part may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express, written consent of the editors (but I bet we will give you the a–okay.) All rights reserved. 34th Street Magazine is published by The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc., 4015 Walnut St., Philadelphia, Pa., 19104, every Wednesday.
DINING GUIDE
Love Letters to a Sourdough Starter What happens when a single college student falls for a burbling mass of yeast? Xander Gottfried
Isabel Liang | Illustrator
19th of September Bewildered Reader,
What follows is not an ode to a restaurant, a personal narrative regarding childhood consumption, nor an exposé on current issues in food. Instead it is a true account, told in letters, of a cook’s love. Depending on how much you pick up, you might expect to learn a little something, and perhaps be entertained. But you might get neither of those things from this account, and in-
stead leave wondering at the witless narrator. Nonetheless, we published it. Happy Reading! The Writer 26th of August Dearest Steerpike, It is with a troubled heart that I write to you on what should be a joyous day. If I recall, it was precisely a year ago that we met. I had procured for you some fine
grapes, green ones, teeming with life, and placed them in your bowl, buried in the flour. I squeezed them slightly, so the juice would just trickle out. Then you were born from the yeasts of the flour and encouraged by their helpful friends on the grapes. Oh, how I rejoiced when you first rose from the bowl, your early sourings proof enough that you were then flourishing. Over the following days, I waited upon your every
desire for milled grain and cold drink. Your sour odor turned sweet and pungent as you ate throughout the day—ah, it brought me tears of joy and tickled my nasal cavity so. But words cannot describe that first taste, my tongue enraptured by your textures. There is nothing quite like rotting flour and water, dearest friend. But I trail on. Forgive me. As I grievously brought to your attention, it is that most unhappiest of days
when we must part ways for a time. Ah, but the hour runs late and my studies call. Know that all the physics in the world cannot explain you. Steerpike, you are unknowable. Lovingly, Your Oldest (and Only?) Friend 1st of September Dearest Steerpike, SEE SOURDOUGH PAGE 4
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DINING GUIDE
SOURDOUGH >> PAGE 4
I have not heard from you since the writing of my last letter, so I thought to communicate again with hopes to right the wrong between us that I alluded to in my correspondence of last week. I hope you are not avoiding me; please remember all the times I would return from work at some late hour and carefully feed you, though my body ached to recline. Do you recall when I would feed you on the morning of an exam, my head swimming with chemical formulae or integral calculus? My scale was at your beck and call, my bag of flour in the fridge always filled, your small jar always washed and pristine in between feedings. You never once grew mold on me. For that I owe you everything. I’m not sure I could
have taken the pain of some other microbe transgressing upon your bubbly mass. Yet I am afraid that this past season has been too good to us. Without my studies, you remained warm and well–fed throughout the summer, sitting on the counter and fluctuating up and down with ease. It was not so long ago that such a routine would have been impossible given your initial stubbornness to be regular. I would feed you your wanted flour and water, yet you would not budge. Ah, how you tempted me! But perhaps I was too cruel, feeding you too irregularly, letting you hit your peak and then begin to starve before replenishing your flour. Why did you not denounce me for my cruelty? I kept you chained in the refrigerator, hibernating, and then demanded you to produce
on a whim! Oh, Steerpike. How can you ever forgive me? Now I must come to the brunt of my point. My studies have begun and you must again be banished to the refrigerator. Please do not be angered. It is the best I can do. I promise to feed you no less than once a week. Your flour will remain in its bag right beside you, just out of reach. My winter is coming too. Exams and papers, and the brutal cold of an Eastern frost. At least it gets no colder than thirty–odd degrees in your chilly home. Until I break bread with you again, I remain. Your Devoted Baker 3rd of September Dearest Steerpike, I am troubled. You still have not replied to my post
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of late. And how can I blame you, who have produced so much for me. I remember the first time I baked with you, and we had such fun. The loaves were flat and crummy, in the British sense of the word, but a jolly good first try. But we learned together, and as I fed you more steadily you produced increasingly tasty doughs. Perhaps some of the best bread I have had. Soft enough that we slept in it, crusty enough that I shaved with it after our wild night, and hole–y enough to pray to, repenting my concupiscence. All that is to say, I love you, and I miss you. Forever yours, Your Eternal Keeper 4th of September Esteemed Editor, I fear your writer, my preposterous roommate, is deranged. Steerpike is the sourdough starter. Flour and water. Inanimate. (Depending on your sense of the word, it does rise and fall as the yeasts eat and break wind of carbon dioxide.) Yes, it teems with microbes, but, venerable redactor, I have never known a microbe to respond to a letter. Please forgive this one sided tête– à–tête and be so agreeable as to publish the work of its most devoted author. The starter does bubble away happily when fed, and I’m sure could fool some for a living, literate being. Now, what follows has distressed me much, but bears much on your story. What I relate must be taken in the strictest confidence. In anger at the lack of response from Steerpike, and
perhaps mad enough to presume the starter dead due to the lack of response, the author snatched it from the refrigerator in a rage and produced a blowtorch from the highest, most unseen cabinet. Aghast, I watched as the flames charred the starter until it was completely dehydrated, blackened, and smoky. As the fire alarm raged, your author turned on the blender and whizzed the incinerated starter until the smoke dissipated and the fire alarm sang itself out. With a look in his eye that I have seen only when the author has tasted a truly arousing ferment of his own creation, he dumped the ash into an old glass yogurt jar, sealed the lid, and ran out the door, apron still on. What follows I only know because it was thoroughly documented on the author’s Instagram story. Biking across town and over the Ben Franklin Bridge, the author stopped upon setting foot in New Jersey and opened the jar. He scattered the ashes over that cursed place— his words, not mine—and then returned home. The next day he bought a loaf of Wonder Bread and has been living off that since. Regards, The Not–Anthropomorphically–Challenged Roommate P.S. It did make quite, quite good bread. *************************** Disclaimer: This is a work of fiction. All opinions, roommates, foods, and love–stories are the products of the author’s imagination. Any likeness to actual persons,
DINING GUIDE
[ Jembatan 5's Bakso Campur Will Change Your Life ] This family–owned Indonesian restaurant brings warm tradition to Bella Vista. Diya Sethi The air was crisp, cool, and ready–to–mist when I entered Jembatan 5 for an early dinner. The decor was simple yet inviting, the perfect shelter for a cool evening. With the warm lighting set upon us, rain began to pour outside, and our waitress, who doubled as the manager, came over to give us a run down of the menu. Her clear passion for food was visible in her descriptions of the items, referencing which dishes would represent Indonesian food the best. Jembatan 5 is a family– owned Indonesian restaurant whose main goal is to introduce the culture and fare to the Philadelphia area. The restaurant's name references the Jembatan
area in Jakarta, Indonesia, a place of fresh ingredients and traditional food. The family is devoted to bringing the same experience to its customers. After browsing through the menu, we settled on a sampling of each section of the menu: appetizers, soups, noodles, rice, and entrees. With a rumbling in our bellies, we began with the potato fritters and were met with a pleasant surprise. The fritters found the perfect balance between soft and crunchy, being both dense and airy. The potato interior was well–seasoned and mimicked the pillowy nature of gnocchi without the thickness. Accompanied by the restaurant's home–made chili sauce, which provided a serious kick,
the fritters disappeared in seconds, leaving us wanting more. The rest of the dishes arrived at once, including a meatball soup (Bakso Campur), coconut rice platter, spicy chicken, and stir fried noodles (Mie Goreng). The coconut rice platter was more than just rice— it included a chicken wing, egg, and tofu that blended together to create a medley of flavor with each explosive bite. The spicy chicken seemed to work seamlessly with the coconut rice as a joint dish while the sauce for the chicken was layered with sweetness and a chili–based kick that had us licking the plate. The noodles were pretty standard as well. Maybe it was the rainy weather or the warmth ema-
nating from the restaurant, but the highlight dish had to have been the meatball soup. The soup mimicked the broth of a Thai red curry, but the warmth of the soup itself hugged my throat, making me nostalgic for childhood rainy days spent binging movies, cuddled on the couch with the ‘rents. The soup maintained a broth–like texture but felt creamy in the best way possible. In the words of Ryan McLaughlin (C '22): “I could have drank that soup all night. I’d write a whole article about that soup.” Even without the high–quality meal, the waitress’s attitude and bubbly nature was enough to make us return to Jembatan 5. She held a clear passion for
the food, spending approximately 20 minutes working through the menu with us and then consistently making sure that everything was perfect. Her regard for Indonesain food, devotion to introducing Philadelphia to the Indonesian culture, and care for service was readable with the smile across her face as she served us. She welcomed us with open arms, cultivating an environment that made me feel as though she was serving me in her own home. It was clear there was love in practically every bite we took and an attitude as warm as the soup she had poured us. Jembatan 5 welcomes you home and is a must–hit in the Bella Vista area.
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DaMò Pasta Lab Brings True Italian Classics to the Hungry Masses You can order some of Philly’s best new Italian food through an electronic kiosk. Ryan McLaughlin
When you think of authentic Italian food you might imagine a quaint, candle–lit bistro with chefs tossing pizza dough in the back kitchen—not stepping up to a virtual kiosk and tapping on images of pasta. But at DaMò Pasta Lab, Denilo and Monica D’Eugenio are transforming Italian cuisine in a way that’s not only maintaining the traditional flavor roots of Italy, but also serving up dishes in five to eight minutes. The main purpose of DaMò is to introduce the younger generations of Americans to traditional Italian food, because typically popular dishes like fettuccine Alfredo aren’t actually classics. DaMò brings different regions of Italy to light, highlighting authentic flavors from all over the country. From Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe that originated in the fourteenth century, to a Tagliatelle al Ragu Bolognese from Bologna that takes 24 hours to make, each item represents true Italian cuisine. Every dish is made with pasta and sauce made from scratch and with only the best ingredients. In fact, most of the DaMò’s ingredients, such as the flour and olive oil, are imported from Italy to bring true Italian flavor. Even the cheese used in the homemade pesto is the same cheese that is used all over Geneva—a place known for being very picky with their pesto, according to Monica. After getting to know how they perfected their dishes, I sat down and got a taste of DaMò myself, and as a pasta lover, I was ready for the best of the best. Within minutes, I was presented with three different types of pasta and a side of 6
Caprese (tomatoes served with mozzarella cheese, olive oil, and basil), as well as the restaurant's Focaccia Barese bread, with each dish looking more delicious than the last. The first pasta dish I tried was the Tagliatelle al Ragu Bolognese, a thicker pasta dish served with a red meat sauce including beef and pork. Upon first bite, I noticed how expertly cooked the pasta was. It was al dente to perfection, and I was met with a burst of flavor from not just the sauce, but the pasta as well (you could tell they were not shy in salting the pasta water). The dish itself also came out piping hot, making the first bite all the more enjoyable. While there was a very present flavor of salt, it worked with the dish as it brought out the acidity of the tomatoes in the sauce, making the flavors blend well together without being overpowering. My only wish for the dish was to have just a little more sauce with it because it was so good. Up next was the Casarecce al Pesto, which was hands– down my favorite dish of this DaMò experience. While the Tagliatelle was very al dente, the Casarecce was a little more
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Sorrentina. Now, when it comes to gnocchi, it’s not easy to please me. Often times, it’s either too gummy or too soggy, leaving me disappointed in my pasta experience. But DaMò doesn’t play any sort of games when it comes Adiel Izilovc | Photographer to their gnocchi. Topped with the tender and worked well to blend with the creaminess of same buffalo mozzarella found the pesto. And when I say that in the Caprese, my first bite this pesto was creamy, I mean was one that I would die for. goddamn creamy. The blend of The tomato sauce had a percheese with olive oil and basil fect touch of acid that helped made a beautiful texture that combine with the pasta’s salty was light yet flavorful to the flavor and the creaminess of the tongue. I could taste the sharp freshness of the basil in every bite, while the occasional pine nut brought me back to life from the pesto euphoria I felt. It was from there that I took a break from my pasta consumption to dig into the caprese, which I could not recommend more to anyone, even if you hate cheese. Made from buffalo’s milk, the mozzarella was packed with flavor and melted perfectly on the tongue. Combined with the best tomato I ever had, the two contrasting flavors created a masterpiece in the mouth, bringing notes of the tart yet sweet tomato to the silky and salty mozzarella, tied together with a fresh touch of basil. After having a few bites of the well–herbed focaccia, topped with plum tomatoes and olive oil for a dish that rivaled pizza, I had my final dish at DaMò: the Gnocchi Alla
mozzarella, complementing the perfectly firm yet delicate texture of the gnocchi. If there is one place you can rely on for a solid gnocchi dish, it’s definitely DaMò. According to Monica, the goal of Italian food is all about balance. Flavors are designed to work together so that the palate can be left with a pleasant feeling, and my DaMò experience was nothing but that. The portions were generous, the service was efficient and friendly, and the flavors were unlike any other that I have tasted before. So if you’re looking to discover truly authentic Italian cuisine that is friendly to your stomach and wallet, head on down to South 12th Street and hit up DaMò Pasta Lab.
DINING GUIDE
Kalaya Authentic Thai Kitchen Lives Up to Its Name You won't find Americanized Pad Thai here. Shinyoung Hailey Noh Unlike the glitzy restaurants of Rittenhouse Square, many of the best Philadelphia spots are hidden in quiet, residential neighborhoods. Kalaya, a Thai restaurant that opened in Bella Vista this June, is one of them. With its calm light blue exterior and playlist featuring “Tainted Love” by Soft Cell and “Livin’ on a Prayer” by Bon Jovi, Kalaya seems westernized at first glance, but a closer look suggests otherwise. One glance at the menu made it clear that Kalaya was not in the business of catering to American expectations. The usual pad thai was nowhere to be seen. The server—pointing to the X’s that noted the spiciness of each dish— explained that the spiciness levels cannot be adjusted. In July, the founders told The Philadelphia Inquirer: “We can’t change the integrity of the dishes here. We don’t want to discourage people, but it is spicy, you know.” The sakoo sai hed—tapioca dumplings with shiitake mushroom & peanut filling, red chili, and lettuce—were good, but perhaps not great as an appetizer. The outer texture feels just like the tapioca balls you taste in bubble tea. It can feel a bit oily at first bite, but the cilantro balances that out. The real difference, though, is in the filling. The mushrooms
and peanuts give the inside of the dumpling a nice earthy taste. While that’s certainly an enjoyable flavor in most cases, it did not work as an appetizer. The kang gai khao mun— chicken curry with cilantro, pandan & coconut rice—started out sweet like the Thai curry I know and love, but had a kick like the Thai curry I had when I was in Thailand. The chicken’s texture was just right, not too dry. What really made this dish, though, was the coconut rice, greened with pandan leaves and garlic. The curry was great, but Kalaya is even better at seafood. The goong aob woon sen—baked shrimp with glass noodles, chinese celery, garlic, ginger, cilantro, long hots, oyster sauce and soy sauce—was the star. The three shrimps were some of the biggest I’d seen in a while, and when I leaned closer to the pan, I caught a whiff of the sea. The oyster sauce came on the side and gave a tangy flavor to the glass noodles. Switching between the curry and the noodles made for a delightful dinner. With the amount of detail in each dish, I could tell that the people of Kalaya cared about the food they were serving—and how could they not, when the restaurant is named after Suntaranon’s mother?
TL;DR: An authentic Thai restaurant in the Italian Market that doesn’t pull itwws punches. Don't Miss: The goong aob woon sen Hours: Monday–Tuesday: closed Wednesday–Friday: 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Saturday–Sunday: 12 p.m.–3:30 p.m., 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Location: 764 S. 9th St, Philadelphia, PA 19147 Price range: $$
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DINING GUIDE
Don't Be Afraid of Eating Alone Learning to cook helped me learn to enjoy my own company. Sophie Burkholder My family rarely ate dinner together growing up. What can I say? We were busy people, and certainly still are. Both of my parents worked nine–to– five jobs, but often had to arrive earlier or stay later for important meetings. So by the time they drove across town to pick my sisters and me up from our after–school programs or soccer practices, and then drove another twenty minutes to get home, we were all so hungry we often didn’t care what was for dinner. That all changed, of course, as we got older, became more independent, and learned how to drive. With a little more time on their hands, my parents made more frequent attempts at cooking, and began to provide us with some truly amazing dinners. My dad in particular, a self–proclaimed francophile, would spend Saturdays toiling over Julia Child cookbooks, crafting cassoulets in the winter, and roasting ratatouille in the summer. We were still busy, and often one of us would be missing from the table at one point or another, but we started eating dinner together on the weekends. I came to college after a summer blessed with these slow productions of multiple courses that focused on the details of humble flower arrangements, matching tableware, and the perfect light setting. It’s no wonder I developed an infatuation with Ina Garten—my high school household prioritized the same details she did in a meal. 8
This romance did not transfer to Penn’s dining halls, where the food is perpetually bland, the light coldly fluorescent, and the company not always amiable. For social reasons, I feared eating alone, thinking people would see me for exactly what I was: a diffident girl with few friends. So when I couldn’t find a way to retreat to my dorm room for a meal, or was too hungry to skip it altogether, I armed myself with a book or my laptop as distraction from outside judgment. I fell into that old habit from my childhood of not really caring what I ate. The lack of any actual comfort in the dining halls’ “comfort food” sections left my stomach feeling empty no matter how much I consumed. What followed my re–adoption of those old patterns is another rather dark story, but somehow I turned my eating habits around. After moving into a house with a gorgeously open kitchen my sophomore year, I grew more confident in cooking my own meals, and I began to feel a satisfaction in eating something that I had taken the time to care for and create, even if the flavors weren’t always perfect. I still ate many meals alone, but in the comfort of my own home, away from the eyes of strangers, I began to put down the books and close my laptop to give my food the attention it deserved. The concept of eating alone is seen as being really good or really bad, depending on who you ask. For as many studies and articles as there are about
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Lydia Ko | Illustrator
positive psychological and esteem-boosting effects of the practice, there are an equal amount of ones decrying it as inducing early patterns of heart disease and depression. Truthfully, there are both healthy and unhealthy aspects of eating alone. Because food and dining can be rather fraught subject matter for a lot of people, making a definitive statement on whether eating meals alone is objectively good or bad for everyone is beyond impossible. But just like an obscure new ingredient or recipe, I believe anything is worth trying once. For me, eating alone is no longer something I fear, but an event to which I look forward. Between work and classes and trying to figure out what to do next year, I relish even a half hour to myself for dinner, when I can mute my phone, and slowly chew my food as I retrace the day in my head.
My love of eating alone grew with a long–developing comfortability in being on my own. I didn’t realize how much I enjoy my own company until I started spending more time with myself. I cherish an extra garnish of fresh rosemary, savor the smell of sesame oil, and honor a Friday evening glass of Pinot Noir, because these small enhancements to a meal alone interrupt the dreary monotonies of life and imbue them with a modest magic, the kind I’ve slowly realized I want and deserve. I continue to dine Lucullus cum Luculo because my solitary time at the dining table with a good meal and some even better music is my chance to check in with myself, to take the quiet breaks that I know I need as an introvert. Setting the table and opening a new bottle of San Pellegrino water doesn’t make me feel like
the slightly mad woman from Hitchcock’s Rear Window, but like Carrie Bradshaw sipping a glass of red wine at a sidewalk café—an iconic fall style look, by the way. This is not to say that there aren’t days when meals last five minutes, or that I don’t still feel anxious about dining alone in public every now and then. Not every meal is as romantic as I’d like for it to be, but when I see a moment of time that I can have all to myself, I take it. Because in a way, preparing a meal just for me is not only an act of appreciation for the art of cooking and eating, but a practice in self–endorsement. As a psychologist quoted in an article from 1985 said, the ritual of preparing a festive meal for oneself allows one to say, “look what I did for myself—I must be worthwhile.” Now that I know that I am, eating alone doesn’t feel so scary.
DINING GUIDE
Punch Buggy Brewing Co. Misses the Mark Though some house brews stand out, this place has room to grow. Daniel Bulpitt Among the leveled lots with scaffolding and freshly laid roads, Punch Buggy Brewing Company opened its garage–style door over the summer near Fishtown. The microbrewery serves a selection of beer either made in–house or from other microbreweries, ranging from the most hoppy IPAs to darker porters, as well as some smaller plates. Punch Buggy has a fair share of hits and misses. Maybe some of the more esoteric ferments are lost on me, but after trying all five of the house brews they had on tap, I have my list of friends and enemies. Here’s the lowdown. I loved their IPAs. “Ike Juice” was a very citrus–forward, zesty light beer with less of a characteristic hop bitterness. It tasted a lot like your Sunday brunch mimosa, albeit slightly more beer flavored, though not in a bad way. Their “Anti-Gravity IPA” was also very good, a full–bodied ale with a decent amount of hop bite. No crazy undertones or hop magic here, just a standard–issue IPA. I also enjoyed their “Cherry Haze," which was definitely the brew on tap that I’d recommend for any person who typically isn’t a big fan of beer. The fruity notes make it very sippable; its taste like a mixture of strawberries and bananas after a while. It seems like an adult fruit juice, but with the supposed dignity of craft beer. The rest of the house brews
were duds. The “El Hefe” description pitched it as a German wheat beer, a taste that I normally enjoy. Instead of the malted sweetness I was expecting, this brew tasted like kombucha gone wrong. Reminiscent of apple cider vinegar, I might have liked “El Hefe” if it were pitched as trendy spiked kombucha. The last beer I tried, the “Wooder Melon,” was by far the worst. It tasted like roasted baba ganoush, eggplant and all, which does not work well in liquid form. Upon consulting with the bartenders, I found out it was made with watermelon rinds, which were relatively easy to discern, and a type of yeast meant to add a bit of smokiness. Smokey yeast—you really learn something new every day. I really want to root for Punch Buggy Brewing Company. Their grilled cheese was great, and the bartenders were very helpful. But I think they still need to take time to grow with their neighborhood, develop a personality, and define themselves a bit more. The bar sits surrounded by new development of condos soon to be rife with young professionals clamoring for a post–work IPA fix. But for now, it’s just the skeleton of a new neighborhood. Maybe once everything around the area opens up, the brewery will have cracked the code. Until then, it’s just a bit of a trip.
TL;DR: Punch Buggy Brewing Company holds promise in some house brews, but others still need work. Location: 1445 N American St, Philadelphia, PA 19122 Hours: Monday – Wednesday: Closed, Thursday: 5 p.m.–10 p.m., Friday: 5 p.m.–12 a.m., Saturday: 12 p.m.–12 a.m., Sunday: 12 p.m.–6 p.m. Price: $$
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DINING GUIDE
The Best Cold Brew on Campus We ranked the local cold brews, so you don’t have to. Mehek Boparai There’s an unspoken culture surrounding the way one takes their coffee. The classic first date, interviewing for a potentially life–changing career, or catching a friend from home after months of not seeing each other are moments that revolve entirely around hanging out at the nearest Starbucks or your favorite hidden spot. And your choice of drink—a calming tea or an espresso–laden latte—often tells more about you as a person than the conversation you hold for hours. For me, that drink has always been a classic cold brew—no cream, no sugar. Chilled enough to overcome the bitterness, smooth enough to sip between playful banter, I have always found myself crawling back to it
time and time again. The beverage is prepared by steeping coffee grounds in room temperature water for several hours before diluting with more water and serving over ice. It’s a fairly new style of preparation compared to the steaming cups of black coffee always depicted on Seinfeld, but it’s now been adopted by coffee shops everywhere. Here on Penn’s campus, there are several options at the disposal of groggy college students to bring bits of smooth caffeine into their routine. I recently sought out to discover which of these were the best, for both taste and economic value, and compiled a list of which to order before your next 9 a.m. lecture. Starbucks Arguably the most accessible
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option, the Seattle–based coffee chain has taken the caffeine– consuming crowd by storm. The more basic departures from heavily marketed drinks, such as the Unicorn Frappuccino or coveted Pumpkin Spice Latte, are just... okay. Starbucks offers several options for cold brew, including the Vanilla Sweet Cream Cold Brew or a Nitro Cold Brew, but at the heart of these choices is the classic Cold Brew Coffee. As
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Starbucks coffee goes, it offered exactly what you think commercial coffee would: slightly sour, unnecessarily bitter, and the opposite of smooth sailing down your throat. It would get you by in a pinch when running late or meeting a friend at a convenient corner, but is not necessarily what you want your first taste of happiness in the morning to be. For roughly $3.50, this drink is simply not worth the money. Rating: 4/10 Dunkin’ Donuts I must confess, I will always have a slight preference for this other top coffee–chain in America, as the medium iced coffee with cream and sugar helped me through a lot of late nights in Van Pelt. But I was actually surprised to find that Dunkin’ Donuts offered a cold–brew that was worth more than just the sheer trendiness the drink offers to the menu. The quality of the steep overall tasted better than their regular brews, and I was able to finish the cup without contesting for my usual add–ons that make the drink a sugary treat rather than an experience. And for being able to get it during their latest happy–hour special for $2, it was undeniably worth the buy. Rating: 8/10 Pret a Manger The coffee shop destined to accompany Wharton students on their way to STAT 101, Pret a Manger’s take on cold brew was met with disappointment. The
brew was rather watery and diluted, as if I were drinking day–old iced coffee long after the ice had melted away the beverage’s integrity. It was not worth the approximately $4 I spent on it, even if I had paid with Dining Dollars. If you’re looking for quality coffee at Pret, I suggest sticking with the espresso. Rating: 3/10 United By Blue United by Blue is notorious for its coffee–chat game. Located at 34th and Walnut Street, the low–lighting coupled with pleasing jazz music makes the café an intimate setting for getting to know someone. Unfortunately, their cold brew was not worth entertaining a thought about, let alone actually trying it. Upon first sip it immediately gave a sharp, sour taste reminiscent of that from Starbucks—but with a much higher concentration. It was completely unpleasant, something your coffee experience should never be, and reminded me of all the reasons why some find black coffee unpalatable. Rating: 0/10 Whether or not you decide to grab a cold brew from your favorite Starbucks on the way to class, we hope this list helps to narrow down your choices of finding the perfect blend at the root of the drink before adding on your preferred dairy or sugar. Keep your conversations fun and your brew cold.
DINING GUIDE
Don Barriga Brings Homemade Mexican Food to University City The new spot masters traditional cuisine with its pure authenticity. AR JU N S WAM I N AT HAN
Just a short walk past the row of fraternity and sorority houses on Spruce Street is Don Barriga, a bright, new Mexican restaurant that sticks out under apartments on the corner of 45th Street with a sweet exterior design and a bunch of chairs and tables that beckon passersby to sit down and enjoy its selection. You’ll find a soft ambiance as the fans hum and the music plays. We learned that the restaurant was part of a family history—owner Pedro Campos explained that his fellow owner Carlos Barriga began working with his siblings at their parents’ restaurant in Upper Darby years ago. After discovering this newly vacant location near campus last winter, Campos and Barriga opened Don Barriga without looking back, and have been here for over three months now. The walls inside are filled with traditional decorations and paintings as well as a chalkboard listing the homemade drink of the day, a set of desserts, and weekly favorites, while the kitchen lies in the back behind the counter.The menu isn’t short on options, offering a variety of appetizers, soups, salads, tacos, and burritos. The restaurant also accommodates dietary restrictions, including multiple vegetarian selections. We began with the chips and salsa, which included a mild salsa verde and a hot salsa roja.
The flavors balanced one another very well, with the savory verde matching the spicy kick of the roja. We then tried the homemade drink of the day, an horchata with a smooth, milky tang that was perfect for washing down the chips and salsa. The unique flavor was akin to a sweet iced coffee. For entrées, we chose veggie enchiladas and a steak alambre, both of which were presented magnificently with the rice and beans sitting neatly next to the meals’ main portions. The rice and beans were cooked to tender perfection, melting into each other perfectly. As I devoured the enchiladas, I savored their piquant flavor among the peppers, zucchini, and creamy sauces. Similarly, the steak alambre was warm and comforting, with the well–cooked meat providing a juicy burst alongside the cheese and crispy fajita vegetables. As a nice touch, our waiters also provided tortillas so that we could construct our own tacos with the meal. The service was excellent, with a minimal wait for our food and timely check–ins from the employees. Overall, Don Barriga checks all the boxes,. Cozy and lovely, it takes Mexican food to a whole new level and is an excellent destination for lunch or dinner on any given day.
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DINING GUIDE
June BYOB:
Traditional French Cuisine With a Modern Twist A constantly changing menu keeps things interesting at this upscale eatery. JE S SIC A BAO
With a soft ambiance, and jewel blue walls all around, June BYOB is the latest French restaurant to join East Passyunk, South Philly’s restaurant row. Chef Richard Cusack opened the 28–seat establishment in late August, replacing a previous French BYOB in the same location. Cusack, named as “a chef with sterling credentials” by The Philadelphia Inquirer, has worked at classic Philly restaurants such as The Dandelion and Parc, and even spent some time working as Sixers star Joel Embiid’s private chef. June BYOB serves an à la carte menu on Wednesday through Saturday nights, and a $50 tasting menu with four courses and an amuse–bouche on Sunday nights. However, it’s not the items on the menu that should bring you to June BYOB, but the skill and care of its chef, as well as an interest in what n e w f a r e he has cooked up since you were last there. According to Cusack, the specials at June BYOB can change weekly or daily, depending on what’s
good at the market that day or what unique supplies he has ordered. The desserts change, too—creme brûlées one day, and crêpes suzette on another. In fact, even though a regular menu is posted on their website, its items can change or rotate every month based on popularity, seasonal supplies, or simply the chef ’s desire to make something new. In order to get a taste of what you can expect from June BYOB, we recommend the tasting menu on Sundays, which includes both regular menu items and unexpected specials. While the same dishes may not be offered every time, certain themes run through the restaurant’s offerings. The dinner began with a classic baguette and butter, but resist the temptation to gorge yourself on these. Then, an amuse–bouche of arctic char tartare, apple, cucumber, and radish certainly amused m y mouth with its mix of refreshing ingredients and excited my eyes with its inviting, green look. It also aptly presented the chef ’s style for the upcoming courses—unique combi-
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nations that work well together in delightful presentation. The appetizer, pasta, and entrée courses for the tasting menu always consist of two choices—fish and poultry. For our Sunday visit, the appetizer course included a hamachi wrapped in Japanese cedar paper, fired and prepared tableside—causing a delicious, smokey scent to waft over the table. The two pastas—a crab cavatelli with corn supreme sauce, and rabbit ragu with chanterelle mushrooms—appealed to different tastes. While the slightly more traditional rabbit melted in my mouth with the mushroom, the crab—working with the sweet corn—felt a bit unexpected. The entrées also vary between traditional and experimental. The scallops made for a solid combo with the lobster sauce, while the chicken ballotine included some pumpkin for a touch of sweetness. The highlight of the night, though, came from one of the specials: spaghetti alla chitarra with Osetra caviar, clam broth, bread crumbs, and a bit of Japanese lemon. It was the perfect representation of how June BYOB mixes classic and contemporary French cuisine. The lemon’s minute zestiness cut through the mineral taste of the caviar, making for a fresh and exciting dish. Lastly, it would not be a complete French meal without
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cheese. In addition to the dessert course in the tasting menu, an additional $10 cheese course offers a choice between two of June BYOB’s evolving cheese selections, or the champagne special. The latter of the two, because of its popularity, may be staying on the menu for a while. Champagne is poured tableside into a soft Langres cheese that’s been cut open, which you can then apply on bread, or sample with jams or grapes. The taste and texture of the bubbly came on at the beginning, but soon faded away, leaving a complementary fragrance. If you are a fan of champagne, cheese, or just fun and unique dishes, the addi-
tional charge may be worth it. As a French eatery, June BYOB is always evolving. A good batch of brussels sprouts may prompt a tweak in the menu, or the chef himself may be struck by inspiration. However, if the range and quality of the tasting menu is any proof, June BYOB and Cusack will continuously offer up well–curated, well–displayed foods. So our advice: try out the tasting menu. Bring a date to marvel together at the tableside preparations, or bring your family for an upscale, but comfortable, meal. And if you like what you eat, you can return and trust the chef.
TL:DR: Unique mixes within French cuisine,
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DINING GUIDE
Sunset Social Brings You Back to Summer This casual diner serves burgers, bowls, and drinks atop Cira Green. C HEL SE Y ZHU
Yesterday was 84 degrees. Today, it’s a middling 65. As I trek through a brisk wind and spatters of rain to Cira Green, I wonder if this is
the turning point—the final traces of summer flickering away into a muted gray fall. Cira Green was made for warmer weather than this, but the stretches of trees, flowers, and grasses on the rooftop are still vibrant, just a bit battered by the breeze. I hide from the worst of the cold by ducking into Sunset Social, a partly open–air restaurant in the middle of the green space. Just like the weather am-
biguously hovers between summer and fall, Sunset Social seems to occupy different times and places. The restaurant is white and modern, with green accents and plants to match its surroundings. It’s also decidedly styled like a retro diner: the neon art and cartoon mascot (a milkshake with high heels and big red lips) are a throwback to the ‘50s. Sunset Social itself sits on a contrast, nestled in a tuft of nature amidst an industrial city.
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Featuring burgers, bowls, sandwiches, and a variety of fries and tots, the menu takes influences from Philly, the Southern U.S., and even Hawaii. The Jawnion Burger features an onion ring smothered in barbeque sauce, while the Big Kahuna Bowl mixes pineapple, bacon, and jalapeños into a sweet, spicy, savory treat. As we order, the music from overhead speakers jumps between decades. After a while, it settles on the ‘80s. We go for the Big Kahuna Burger (which has similar ingredients to the bowl) and the Homestyle Fried Chicken Sandwich. The burger is covered in a perfectly smoky teriyaki barbeque sauce, and the generous helping of jalapeños adds a needed kick. But the two burger patties included in the Big Kahuna were dry and lacked substance for a $9 price tag. The pineapple was tangy, but almost too little to taste. Although we’ve had better burgers, there was almost no way to improve the fried chicken sandwich. The patty
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w a s thick, crispy, and still juicy on the inside, plus the freshly made bread had a sweetness that complemented the ranch dressing and sour pickles. I spent 18 years of my life in the South, so trust me when I say this is as good as a fried chicken sandwich gets. Sunset Social’s food has its strengths, but the price of each item is hard to justify when you consider the small portions. Without any sides or drinks, the meals feel incomplete, but with them, the cost doubles. But if you eat with your eyes as much as with your mouth, the occasional trip to Sunset Social and Cira Green is well worth it. The appeal of swaying trees, combined with a 360–degree look at the Schuylkill and Philly, is timeless. As another school year rolls on toward fall and winter, Sunset Social stands in a haven that seems perpetually green, calling you to far away— to yesterday, to summer.
TL:DR: Go for solid sandwiches and a drink
or two; stay for the irreplaceable view. LOCATION: 129 S. 20th Street
HOURS: MON – SUN: 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. PRICE: $–$$
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DINING GUIDE
A Day in Domenic Vitiello’s Urban Food Chain Course Visits to places like Sankofa Community Farm highlight the importance of local food culture. SO P H IE BUR KHOLD ER
“Sankofa—who here knows what that means?” The question fell upon a quiet group of students, squinting up at their speaker against the sunlight of a golden afternoon in southwest Philadelphia. A Twi word from the Akan tribe in Ghana, sankofa translates to the phrase “go back and get it.” This is the principle upon which the Sankofa Community Farm of Bartram’s Garden built up its community over the last six years. Chris Bolden–Newsome, a co–founder of the farm, explains to a class of twenty Penn students the way in which the histories of the African Diaspora align with the social and spiritual implications of hosting a community garden, expanding upon his original translation to say, “ain’t nothing wrong with going back and getting what you left behind.” The class he speaks to is Dr. Domenic Vitiello’s course on the Urban Food Chain, which studies the socioeconomic dynamics of metropolitan food cultures and systems. A flipped–classroom–style course in the Urban Studies Department here at Penn, “lectures” for the Urban Food Chain are actually the readings that students complete on their own time, while scheduled course hours are opportunities for relating the reading material to communities in and around Philadelphia. “Food, in particular, lends itself to experiential learning,” says Vitiello, who tries to engage students by giving them a chance to farm, garden, cook, and eat throughout the semester. On this first field trip to Bartram’s Garden, which is a short trolley ride from Penn, we were going to learn about seed–saving.
Bolden–Newsome placed wide bowls of deep purple, tan, and brownish–black seed pods on wooden picnic tables as he told us the history behind the purple– hull pea, describing the way that this particular plant originated in Western Africa, and is believed to have come to the United States during the slave trade. He illustrated the pea’s reflection of sankofa in telling of the way the pea can cross with other strains of the pea plant here in America, while still retaining the ability to thrive in its land of origin if it were transplanted there. The pods in front of us came from the farm’s own pea plants, picked up from the ground by tender, loving hands, and gathered here to be harvested and re–planted. Seed–saving practices like those adopted by Sankofa Community Farm find their origins deep in the history of human civilization as the way that we originally transformed from primarily hunter–gatherers to farmers. This step is both a beginning and an end to the cycle of natural agriculture that the farm endorses. “We focus primarily on the health of the soil,” Bolden–Newsome explains, an approach that takes advantage of the local environment without involving additional nutrients and chemicals. Sankofa’s focus on the com-
plete cycle of its plants through seed–saving and other important processes of natural agriculture mirrors Vitiello’s focus on the cyclicity in urban food systems. Following studies of urban agriculture and community gardens, students in the class will move on in later weeks to examine distribution, retail access, food assistance, restaurants, culinary cultures, and waste. Where some
peas, and other plants of the African Diaspora, several of which are provided by Truelove Seeds, a seed company committed to offering “rare, open–pollinated, and culturally important vegetable, herb, and flower seeds.” Though Philadelphia is an extremely diverse city with residents that are 44.1 percent black, 35.8 percent white, 13.6 percent Latinx, and 7.2 percent Asian, it is also deeply segregated. The neighborhoods of Germantown, North Philadelphia, Point Breeze, West Philadelphia, and Southwest Philadelphia—where Sankofa Community Farm resides—have a combined Sophie Burkholder population of about 610,000 may typically see this as a linear people, 82% of which are black. path that begins with crops and By growing plants that can help ends with landfills, Vitiello hopes tell the story of slavery and liberato impart the idea of “closing the tion in America, Bolden–Newecological loop,” in which waste some hopes to use gardening might be used to actually help and food to preserve, lift up, and encourage new crop growth. identify ritual practices that may The easy answer to closing have been left behind, again emthat loop is through practices like bodying the meaning of sankofa. composting or recycling our food This year, 2019, is the year of waste, but a more profound solu- return for the African Diaspora, tion might come from addressing but Bolden–Newsome underissues that arise in other phases of stands that the economic limits the food system cycle. At Sankofa, of many blacks in the PhiladelBolden–Newsome sees one such phia area will prevent them from solution as cultivating a spiritual pursuing this physical return relationship between the com- to another continent. “Here, munity and the land. The way he we can return in other ways.” does this is by filling the garden Offering bi–weekly farmstand with okra, cotton, black–eyed markets and membership to
those in the surrounding community, Sankofa Community Farm and Bartram’s Garden act as spaces and containers for interpersonal connections, fostering their patrons through monthly classes, farm partnerships, and agricultural consulting. The success of this hyper–local garden is one of the better illustrations of the relationships between food, culture, and society that Vitiello makes a theme of his course. Not only does Sankofa’s emphasis on certain plants help encourage discussion and engagement within their community, but their farming practices value sustainability and local distribution. The farm is only the first of many examples to follow in Vitiello’s course of why we should all care about food systems in our community, even if we only reside here temporarily as students. Though Vitiello will encourage his class to develop literacy in all aspects of the urban food chain, the passion for this mission begins here. In college, we may see food only as fuel more often than we’d like to admit, but the foundation of this course lies in the deeper spiritual reality behind the common phrase “you are what you eat.” Finding ways of reconnecting to the Earth will undoubtedly help us to reconnect to our food heritage, and develop new ones along the way. As he tears off a few fresh leaves from a sorghum stalk in the garden and passes them around, Bolden– Newsome perfectly sums up the relationship between the food cycle and our own human identities: “When we start eating different foods, we become different people.”
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DINING GUIDE
Blume is a Pink Millenial Heaven This vibrantly decorated restaurant serves up eclectic flavor mashups. Brittany Levy
When you see a window boasting a colorful butterfly amid a neighborhood with mostly pubs and apartment buildings, you’ll know you’re in the right place. You won’t be surprised when you walk inside to find every square foot covered in millennial–friendly flowers, plants, neon lights, and shades of blue, pink, and purple. Blume’s vibrant decor makes great fodder for your Instagram feed, but the ambiance left me feeling a bit confused about the intended experience. On one hand, the restaurant was rather informal, with bar seating, paper menus and napkins, pitchers of water, employees dressed in jeans, and a sports bar where
people watched football. But on the other hand, the ornate food displays, mid– range prices, cocktail and wine selection, and stylish fixtures took me out of the sports bar mindset. Regardless of the inconsistency, the restaurant had an energetic vibe when we went, with popular hip–hop throwbacks blasting and large groups snapchatting their nights away. No one in the restaurant seemed to be over 30, but everyone seemed to be having a good time. The menu boasts a hodgepodge of items, ranging from kung pao calamari to falafel to gnocchi to New York strip steak. We just missed happy hour, but the deals
Jessica Bachner | Audience Engagment Associate include $4 beers, $5 wines, $6 cocktails, $4 bites, and $5 snacks from 4 p.m.–6 p.m. on Mondays–Fridays. The waitress recommended getting large dishes to share, so we started out with the avocado sundae, blistered shishitos
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and beans, heirloom tomato salad, and fig flatbread. The avocado sundae was a crowd favorite—it was modeled like an ice cream sundae, with the avocado dip masquerading as a scoop of ice cream, crème fraîche as whipped cream, balsamic vinaigrette as syrup, spices as sprinkles, and tomato as a cherry on top. The blistered shishitos and beans were also a hit— the waitress explained that one in ten of the peppers are spicy, which made for a tangy surprise. However, we probably could have gone without the heirloom tomato salad and fig flatbreads we ordered, as the salad came drenched in dressing and the flatbread was rather greasy. For the main course, we got the cauliflower steak and salmon entrées. The steak had an impressive display with a knife stabbed vertically through the middle, and the salmon plat-
ter was also arranged artistically. The dishes themselves didn’t disappoint—they were both rather flavorful, and certainly not swimming in oil. Both paired nicely with their respective side dishes of tabbouleh and tahini for the cauliflower, and quinoa and beets for the salmon. The Instagram–worthy “Cotton Candy” drink was temporarily unavailable because the cotton candy machine was broken, so we went with the next most popular drink, the Purple Rain. It came in a tall glass of an ombré blend of purples, tasty and sugary enough for us to forget that there was any gin in the drink. While none of the dishes left me wanting to rush back for more, the loud, chic, and hip ambiance made for an overall positive experience at this new fusion spot in Philly.
TL;DR: Phone eats first at this Instagram–friendly new spot, and the ambiance makes for a good time, but the food is just okay. Location: 1500 Locust St. Hours: Monday – Thursday, 4 p.m. – 11 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 12 p.m. – 2 a.m.; Sunday 12 p.m. – 11 p.m. Price: $$
DINING GUIDE
Everything You Need to Know About the New Giant Heirloom Market Here's how campus's newest grocery store stacks up. Brittany Levy
It’s finally here—a supermarket other than Fro–Gro that won’t cost you a trip downtown. The Giant Heirloom Market opened on Aug. 2 right next to Domus Apartments. While regular Giant stores compete mainly with Acme and Aldi, the Heirloom Market is in the same playing field as Whole Foods. What differentiates the Heirloom Market from run–of–the–mill Giant stores is an urban store format and an assortment of items based on local residents’ feedback. In the packaged food section, I found the DIY olive oil bar and One Village Coffee station. I created my own olive oil and vinegar blend by choosing from the selection of oils (extra virgin, garlic, or lemon) and vinegars (balsamic, fig, or peach) and my desired proportion of each. Then, the machine worked its magic and created my personal blend— though it set me back $10.99. As I progressed into the prepared foods section, I felt like I was entering a completely separate establishment. The first area that caught my eye was the gourmet cheese section, complete with pairing recommendations. The cheese is located next to fresh bread, bagels, granola, donuts, croissants, and muffins from High Street on Market and pastries from Isgro Pasticceria. Next up in the prepared foods section was the deli. As
I browsed through the selection of Boar’s Head meats and sandwiches, the chef told me that he would be slicing a fresh set of cold cuts in about two minutes. If I wanted something quick but wasn’t in the mood for a sandwich, I could go to the grab–and–go section, which included soups, pastas, mac and cheese, salmon, chicken parmesan, and meatloaf. I next watched the sushi chef prepare fresh sushi. He seemed friendly—so friendly that he stopped what he was doing to ask how he could help me when he saw me surveying his work. To my dismay, the day I visited the market wasn’t a Wednesday, so I couldn’t enjoy Sushi Wednesday—when certain rolls go for $4.99. Finally, I found the kombucha on tap, with a selection of four kombuchas and two cold brews. There’s also a robust selection of local beers and wines. For those who can’t wait to eat their groceries, there’s a seating area that includes free wifi, a microwave, silverware, cookbooks, and even some board games. But if you’re in a rush to get out, the self–checkout stations have your back. The checkout experience was designed with the target market in mind. Overall, the Heirloom Market has a tasteful selection and exceptional customer service, but it may cost you a pretty penny.
TL;DR: The new Heirloom Market has its target market in mind with organic produce, prepared foods, domestic beers and wines, self–checkout, and great customer service, but these come at a steep price compared to its competitors. Location: 3401 Chestnut St. Hours: Monday – Sunday, 6 a.m. – 10 p.m. Price: $$
Delicious food. Great drinks. Perfect location. Located within The Study at University City 20 S. 33rd Street | 215.398.1874 | coopphilly.com
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DINING GUIDE
Dock Street South Steps Out of the Shadow of Its West Philly Sibling
Adiel Izilov | Staff Photographer
This new location of a West Philly favorite heads in a different direction. Beatrice Forman The first thing you’ll notice when you walk into Dock Street South is that it feels like the lobby of a high–end hotel, or one of those new millennial co–working spaces. Located on a strip of the industrialized Washington Avenue, the space is filled with long wooden tables and homey chairs, an obvious allusion to community building. A coffee/ beer/cocktail bar lines the front, letting you order an IPA and a cold brew in the same breath. Dock Street South aims to cultivate the same energy as its
sibling, the West Philly favorite Dock Street Brewery. The pub and pizza spot is that kind of natural catch–all restaurant—unpretentious enough for families to get dinner together, but pretentious enough for college students to shamelessly order an imported beer. Dock Street South does much of the same, but rather than achieving it through decor, the gastropub does it through food. Dock Street South offers approachable Mediterranean fare—you can order a hum-
mus plate and mac ’n cheese at the same time. There are charcuterie boards, light salads, rotisserie chicken, and vegetarian friendly sides. It strikes the balance between home–cooked comfort and Michelin Star sophistication. At a time where every restaurant is searching for superlatives—the best pizza, the tallest milkshake, the cheapest boozy brunch—Dock Street South just wants to be good. And that’s more than enough. Our meal began with a cheese board that came with three dif-
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ferent breads: a sweet raisin swirl invoking memories of lazy breakfasts in bed, a soft pumpernickel that wasn’t overly dense, and a classic baguette. Made for sampling and pairing, the board let the cheese ride in the backseat, allowing the often overlooked accoutrements to shine. Served with a fruit jelly that shocks with a slightly tart aftertaste and a stuffing imbued with complex textures, the board turned fine dining playful. The same was true of their charcuterie offerings. Plated with a sharp salami and a perfectly cured soppressata, this board similarly played with flavor pairings. A line of pickles sat next to a cluster of strawberries, inviting us to ask the question: Are there bounds to the classic sweet–and–sour pairing? (There aren’t). The board finished with a cup of refined, spicy brown mustard, tasting less like mustard smeared on a deli hoagie and more like something you’d find on the shelf of a Dean & DeLuca. That is the true beauty of Dock Street South. It collects the flavors we take for granted— the tang of mustard, the finish of a well–seasoned chicken, the foam of a beer—and elevates them to something just out of
reach. Sure, we could craft our own cheese board or spiralize our own zucchini, but why would we, especially when it could never taste this effortless? Dock Street South offers a robust sandwich section, each injected with a dose of Mediterranean flare. There’s the Lamb Pita, smeared with tzatziki and dusted with sumac. The lamb is nice too, with a slightly smoky aftertaste that leaves your lips tingling, but it, once again, feels secondary to the things that surround it. Meanwhile, the Sicilian Herb Chicken looks plain, like the type of rotisserie chicken they keep cooking under the heat lamp at the supermarket. It tastes anything but, seasoned with a mixture of thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lemon. Dock Street South isn’t Dock Street Brewery. It’s more—more flavorful, more serene, more adult. But it’s also less in some intangible way, lacking the nods from regulars at the bar or the groups of students clinking glasses in the back. Perhaps this is better, underscoring that simple doesn’t always mean boring or dependable—like a neighborhood joint you get take–out from every Wednesday. Simple can be special, just like Dock Street South.
TL;DR: A catch—all brewery/coffee shop with simplistic Mediterranean fare. Location: 2118 Washington Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19146 Hours: Monday-Thursday: 7 a.m.–11 p.m., Friday: 7 a.m.–1 a.m., Saturday: 11 a.m.–1 a.m., Sunday: 10 a.m.–11 a.m. Price range: $$
Adiel Izilov DINING GUIDE
Pizzeria Beddia is Back— And It’s Like It Never Left
We’re The only bike shop on campus! With the quiet confidence of a Philadelphia institution, the new location is serving up the same pies in a friendlier space.
Beatrice Forman
The best pizza in Philadelphia is hidden in an alleyway under the Market– Frankford Line. Located on a quiet street in Fishtown, the new Pizzeria Beddia is laden with the myth of superlatives—it has the most open space, the tastiest slice, the creamiest soft serve. Owned by Joe Beddia, a reluctant superhero of a chef known for his Clark Kent classes and penchant for slouchy t– shirts, the new location isn’t meant to be compared to the old. They’re nothing alike. The old Pizzeria Beddia, which sold its final pizza during the spring of 2018 after five years in business, was the size of moderately priced studio apartment and located in the shadow of a McDonalds and a millenial beer garden. Ordering a pie was a Herculean task—customers couldn’t call to order ahead, or sit a table, or make alterations to his classic offerings. You ate what you were given—a doughy thin crust pizza layered with an impactful tomato sauce and a healthy helping of cheese—and liked it, even if it meant you had to wait in line for eight hours or visit on a Monday at 4 p.m. because they sold out the first two times. The old Pizzeria Beddia was good because it was hard. The new version is good because it’s easy. A collaboration between Beddia and the owners of
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Ethan Wu | Media Director Lebanese hot–spot Suraya, the new iteration is both homey and minimalistic, with natural light casting shadows on sparsely dressed wooden tables. At the restaurant’s center is a circular marble bar that feels more expansive than its 28–bottle wine list–more than double the number of food options. This Pizzeria Beddia is warm and inviting and smells a little like an Italian grandmother’s spice cabinet. It says, Welcome. Come Inside. Fall in love with everything about us. Bits of quirk are sprinkled throughout the open space. A smiling kawaii cloud floats over the bar, reminding patrons to laugh a little—this isn’t that kind of fine dining. Chubby, neon stars reminiscent of middle school doodles line the back walls to provide the same effect. Even the menu is imbued with childlike wonder, designed in a font that’s half chicken scratch, half bold block lettering. In short, Joe Beddia wants you to know he doesn’t care—not about the praise, or the hype, or the next business venture. All he wants is for you to have fun, and a couple of pizzas while you’re at it. The meal began with tomato pie, a Philadelphia classic known for its lack of cheese and abundant red sauce. Pizzeria Beddia’s take
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DINING GUIDE
PIZZERIA BEDDIA >> PAGE 21
is textbook. The dough verges on being a focaccia, thick and chewy with air pockets providing a balanced lightness. Dipped in olive oil
cherry tomatoes, sunflower seeds, and a mint–infused crème fraîche dressing, this starter tastes like a late summer afternoon. The kale lacks its typical bitter flavor, allowing the toppings to take the
simplicity of a freshly cut tomato or a new bushel of kale to create something refined. Then came the pizza: the “angry” Pizza Arrabbiata coated in a tomato sauce steeped with chilis and
tween a flatbread pie and the doughy crust of the greasiest New York dollar slice. It’s chewy with a crunch that rests at the edges, with those large bubbles that give every good pizza its character.
is a pie reserved for life’s specials, bursting with the flavors of fresh excitement. It’s not quite angry, like the menu says, but rather tenacious, using spice to build a heat that rests on your tongue
Ethan Wu | Media Director and coated with two layers of tomato sauce, it tastes best at room temperature. Soggy with subtle flavors, like the punch of Sicilian oregano, it reminds you that simple can be special. The same can be said of their Tuscan kale salad. An easy mix of kale, sun gold
lead. The dressing is thick, like a well-prepared ranch, but lacks that indescribable tangy flavor. It has a quiet, cool aftertaste—thanks in part to the mint—and pairs well with the vibrant crunch of sunflower seeds. It’s a salad for people who buy produce at farmers' markets, using the
topped with a smattering of serrano and flecks of basil. It’s lip–stinging in the best way possible, kind of like a first kiss or a box of Hot Tamales snuck into a movie theater. The basil mutes some of the spice, giving the pizza an addictive kick. The crust feels novel, a mix be-
Make no mistake—this isn’t a pie that you order casually, like when you’re drunk off cheap beer or looking for a dinner that’ll satisfy that group of friends who can never decide on what to order. This
TL;DR: The best pizza in Philadelphia. Location: 1313 N Lee St, Philadelphia, PA 19125 Hours: Monday – Sunday: 5 p.m. – 11 p.m. Price range: $$$ 2 2 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E S E P T E M B E R 2 5 , 2 01 9
long after the final bite. Ultimately, Pizzeria Beddia is more than its hype.
DINING GUIDE
Find a Modern Take on American Comfort Food at Olly Diya Sethi
F I N A L
DAYS
Despite its high quality ingredients, the dishes at this restaurant lack nuanced flavors. As I perused the Olly’s online menu before my visit to the restaurant, I prepared my stomach for a hefty American meal. My fantasies included an epic cheese pull from a steamy plate of nachos, sinus–clearing from a plate of heavily flavored, saucy chicken wings, and, of course, a juicy bite of an all–American burger. Upon entering Olly, I was met with the exact opposite of my daydreams. Our server relayed the menu to us as if we were her friends. After comparing the options provided, we settled on the Olly wings, the cheese ball, the charred broccoli Caesar, and finally, the renowned, Craig Laban–approved burger. The cheese ball arrived first, accompanied with seeded crackers and some apricot on the side. The cheese's texture and consistency were like that of a ricotta, and with that in my mind, I eagerly took my bite. The cheese, which proved not to be ricotta, lacked the usual saltiness of a spread cheese, and, honestly, had little flavor at all. The sweetness of the apricots, when added to the cheese and cracker combination, provided it with a deeper layer of flavor. This cheese– apricot pairing quickly became my favorite dish from the evening. Following this appetizer were the wings and salad. While the quality of the ingredients for both dishes was evident in the way the chicken tore and the lettuce crunched, they also lacked any
added flavor. As for the wings, though the chicken itself was of high quality, they would not be worth a second purchase, given their high price point on the menu. As for the salad, though the broccoli was the highlight of this innovative Caesar salad, its bitterness also overwhelmed the entire dish. By this point, my friend and I were stuffed. Still, we were eager to try the burger. When we originally ordered, the waitress described how Craig Laban, the Philadelphia Inquirer restaurant critic, had spent an hour raving about the burger, so we had high expectations. However, when the burger arrived, its appearance was nothing special, and the taste reflected that. While the beef was of good quality and well–cooked, the cornichon aioli tasted no different than a typical mayonnaise, and the bacon within the burger went unnoticed, so unnoticed that I suspect there wasn’t any on it at all. While this joint definitely offered a modern take on American comfort food, the bill was far from comfortable. The quality and appearance of the food definitely did not measure up to the extravagant decor of the restaurant. The food, though good overall, often lacked flavor, and was not worth either its hefty price tag or the cross–town trek to South 5th Street. If you’re looking for a great date spot, skip this place and just stay on campus—your wallet will thank you.
TL;DR: Olly's American dishes are headed in the right direction, but still have room to improve. Location: 700 S 5th St, Philadelphia, PA 19147 Hours: Monday – Thursday: 4 p.m. – 11 p.m., Friday – Saturday: 10 a.m. – 2:30 p.m., 4 p.m. – 11 p.m., Sunday: 10 a.m. – 2:30 p.m., 5 p.m. – 10 p.m. Price: $$
Offer ending Thursday 9/26. Don’t miss out!
On the 2nd Floor in the Penn Bookstore at the corner of 36th & Walnut Streets 215.898.3282 | www.upenn.edu/computerstore
Prices, products, speciications and availability subject to change without notice. Valid PennCard required to determine purchasing eligibility. Printing errors/omissions are subject to our correction without notice. Call or visit the "About Us" portion of our webpage for other store policy & information. All pictured products, company names, brand names, trademarks, and logos are property of their respective owners. 08/08/19.
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DINING GUIDE
Our Favorite Stops on South Street A collection of the best dining options on one of Philly’s coolest streets. Karin Hananel
With blocks upon blocks of eateries peppered on the street that serves as the beating heart of Philadelphia’s small business scene, you can’t go wrong with South Street. From juiceries to fast–casual joints to sit–down restaurants, this melting pot of a street has it all.
of cheeses makes for a wonderful pull, and one slice will satisfy any hungry student after a long day of classes (or partying). 305 South Street Price: $
Federal Donuts
Since Federal Donuts is this city’s definitive fried chicken and donut joint, it’s only natural that they have a shop on South Street. With an expansive space and lots of tables to sit down
Lorenzo and Sons Pizza
Is Lorenzo’s gimmicky and touristy at times with its head– sized pizza slices? Yes. But is there anything better than smothering said slice in oregano and biting in on South Street? Probably not. Lorenzo’s ridiculously huge slices have been a South Street staple for several decades at the same location, and for good reason. The dough is neither too thick nor too thin, their blend
and enjoy the retro decor, this FedNuts shop is worth a visit if you’re in the area and craving one of their fancy or classic donuts. While their fancy donut lineup changes regularly, a favorite of many is their Eagles green donut, which is the perfect companion to watching a Sunday night football game with friends. If you’re craving something warm to go with your morning coffee, their regular donuts coated in flavored sugar (cinnamon, strawberry, lavender) is the way to go. 540 South Street Price: $
Street Price: $$
Sip–N–Glo
Honey’s Sit ’N Eat
With three locations in Philadelphia, Sip–N–Glo has rapidly become the city’s favorite juicery. Not only do they have healthy and flavorful cold–pressed juices—they also have great smoothie combinations, nut–butters, nut mixes, soups, and merch. Some fan favorite smoothies are Buzzed (made with coffee, almond butter, bananas, honey, cacao, and almond milk), which emulates a morning coffee while also filling you up, and Honey Love (made with spinach, greek yogurt, honey, bananas, cinnamon, coconut nectar, and almond milk), which is their classic green smoothie with a hint of sweetness. 932 South Street Price: $
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Ants Pants Cafe
Whether you’re on the west or east side of South Street, you’ll always be just steps away from an Aussie–inspired brunch. Ants Pants has two locations on or just off of South Street, and both serve the same extensive and tasty menu. From their scrambles and hashes to their sandwiches and salads, it’s hard not to find someExp.2/23/12 4/11/12 thing great on the menu. They Exp. do both sweet and savory really well, all accompanied by casual 215-386-1941 and relaxed vibes. 2212 South Street or 526 S. 4th
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Alyan’s Restaurant
If you’re looking to eat like a local, Alyan’s is the place to do it. Their Middle Eastern menu is as authentic as it gets around here, filled with dishes that are rarely done well outside of the Middle East like shawarma, kibbe, and kebabs. The people are kind, the service is fast, and you won’t have to deal with the hordes of tourists on the other side of the street waiting hours for cheesesteaks. 603 S. 4th Street Price: $
Another brunch staple on the west side of South Street, Honey’s is beloved by locals and tourists alike for its friendly service and extensive Jewish–American–inspired menu. The food is hearty and comforting, featuring classic brunch dishes like Eggs Benedict and French Toast, and they even rework them to be vegan in some instances. Honey’s delivers the classic brunch feel while also innovating for the times. 2101 South Street Price: $$
Sweet Freedom Bakery
Classifying themselves as an allergy–friendly bakery, Sweet Freedom makes widely–loved baked goods for any diet. Their baked goods are gluten–free, vegan, soy–free, and kosher, making them a go–to in the city for anyone with severe allergies or dietary restrictions. They have all the classics: cupcakes, cookies, cakes, and loaves, all made with alternative ingredients that emulate well–known flavors. 1424 South Street Price: $ While this list is a start to listing all of what South Street has to offer, there are nearly 30 blocks of places to discover. Take a stroll and see what might become your new favorite restaurant.
DINING GUIDE
Stina Pizzeria: An Exciting Trip through the Mediterranean Here in Philadelphia Lily Snider
We may have found the best octopus in Philadelphia.
During my meal at Stina Pizzeria, the fire alarm went off twice, and not a soul cared. The waiters kept waiting, the dishes kept arriving, and the issue was solved within a matter of ten or fifteen seconds. Once the sound of the alarm subsided, the regular hum could resume. The space is narrow and sound travels easily over the warm air, heated by the wood– fired oven in the kitchen—perhaps the culprit of the earlier alarms. Affectionately referred to by his staff as Bobby, Haralampus Saritsoglou (“More letters than the alphabet,” he laughs) is the chef and owner of Stina. He named the place after his wife, Christina, the co–founder of Philly Aids Thrift and is responsible for the vintage frames and trinkets that line the walls of the cozy restaurant. Upon hearing our order—Borek (a Turkish pastry), Cauliflower, Octopus, Mushroom Pide (a Turkish baked bread), and Eggplant pizza—his eyes widen and he cracks a warm, knowing smile: “You’re gonna be very full.” Chef Bobby is not wrong. The plates come out in record time, one after another before the prior is even halfway finished. First up is the Borek, which is a heavenly combination of phyllo dough, kashkaval cheese, toasted
sesame, and honey, topped with a baked plum. The crunch on the outside balances a soft, gooey cheese within. The filling's savory tang balances the sweetness of the honey and decadent plum. The subtle hints of sesame and za'atar round it right out. Next is the octopus. The outside is somehow crunchy, but that's not what’s most impressive. What is, is the texture of the meat in the center, which— instead of having the normal chewy texture that octopus often has—is soft and rich and falls apart in your mouth. The mushroom pide—one of the signature Turkish dishes on the menu—is downright sexy. The baked bread envelops an open center of oozing cheese and thickly cut mushrooms of various types. The truffle taste is strong and serious. Stina is a gem, its exterior decorated with colorfully filled flower boxes and a sparkling front window that starkly distinguishes it from its surroundings. Beyond being a phenomenal eatery, every month, Stina partners with a different local charity, donating 1% of gross sales every day and 20% of gross sales on the last Tuesday of the month. As I left Stina, I couldn’t help feeling like the place casts a spell—one that no number of blaring fire alarms could break.
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TL;DR: Stina Pizzeria is an unmissable destination for food from all regions of the Mediterranean. Location: 1705 Snyder Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19145 Hours: Tuesday - Saturday: 12 p.m. - 3 p.m., 5 p.m. 10 p.m., Sunday - Monday: Closed Price: $$
Shop now at Instacart.com/store/the-fresh-grocer S E P T E M B E R 2 5 , 2 01 9 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E 2 5
DINING GUIDE
Taco Taco Mexican Continues Honest Tom's Legacy
The new joint returns to the campus favorite’s roots, with carnivorous options and larger portions.
Beatrice Forman Honest Tom’s closed this summer, but you probably wouldn’t know it. Within a month, the restaurant reappeared, churning out the same soft shell tacos and overstuffed burritos in that quaint house on 44th Street. Only it wasn’t really back—it became an entirely new restaurant. Now named Taco Taco Mexican, but lacking signage, this Honest Tom's reincarnate is
bringing the restaurant back to where it started, with meat and vegan–friendly options. Run by Abraham and his brother, two chefs from the original location, the pair remains authentic to former owner Tom McCusker’s vision. Every recipe is the same—down to the “special sauce”—and the menu is more reminiscent of the one affixed to the food truck that started it all.
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Taco Taco Mexican has integrated meat back into their menu, but still maintains two vegetarian options and one vegan option—the rice and beans, the autumnal sweet potato, and the walnut–based “Biff.” This return to form refocuses the vision of what was University City’s only genuine Mexican restaurant until late, positioning Taco Taco as a true neighborhood spot where carnivores and herbivores alike can celebrate Taco Tuesday. When Street stopped by to get the scoop on the whereabouts of our favorite local Mexican joint, we sampled some Biff and chicken tacos to test whether there really was a difference between the two proprietors. And spoiler alert—there isn’t. Taco Taco
Mexican is not a fully new business, but rather the next phase in the evolution of Honest Tom’s. The chicken taco was packed with flavor, chunky guac spilling out the sides with each bite. Taco Taco manages to strike a balance between the classic taco—big on impact but light on everything else—and the Americanized version, with its large portions and penchant for extra cheese. As for the Biff, it tastes nothing like beef, but if you go into your first taste with an open mind, it’s
somehow better. When paired with their delightful sticky rice and beans, it mimics the flavors of a grain bowl. For an unorthodoxly delicious taco experience, look no further than this. Overall, Taco Taco Mexican isn’t new. If anything, its menu is older than the Honest Tom’s that welcomed me to campus last year, with its carrot and lentil barbacoa. But nonetheless, with its commitment to no–frills authenticity, it’ll soon become a campus classic.
TL;DR: Same Honest Tom's flavors in a delightfully authentic setting Don't Miss: Burritos the size of your head Hours: Monday — Sunday: 11 A.M — 9 P.M Location: 261 S 44th St, Philadelphia, PA 19104 Price range: $
Poet~tree EnMotion: Fall Harvest Rhythm & Flow Festivities Sep 25 @ 7:00 PM Featuring a variety of multi-disciplinary performances, arts & culture presentations. Expect a Dance entranced with Spoken Words/Lyrical Poet-tree & Mystical Moving Arts Meditation, Flow Arts, body-moving undulations brought on by the Brazilian Percussion performance culminating in procession outside for the Finale of Fierce Fire Flows! A FREE COMMUNITY EVENT The Gathering Sep 26 @ 9:00 PM Established in 1996, The Gathering is the longest/strongest-running truly Hip Hop event in Philly. The Gathering IS b-boys/b-girls, poplockers, emcees, graffiti writers, DJs, men, women, and children of all ages enjoying an organic, community-based celebration of all things Hip Hop. Admission is $3 before 10pm, $5 after 10pm. Event Horizon pres. ST∆ER, Mikronesia, The Equinox Project Sep 27 @ 8:00 PM The Equinox Project - improvised sonic adventures ST∆ER - cinematic synth & piano Mikronesia with visuals by Nora Gibson - remixed imaginary soundscapes from the Echozoo extinct animals project Admission is FREE eventhorizonseries.org As an alcohol-free/smoke-free venue, The Rotunda provides an invaluable social alternative for all ages.
4014 Walnut • TheRotunda.org
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DINING GUIDE
The Ultimate Chain Restaurant Bar Crawl One writer’s journey to the best casual dining chains Philly has to offer. Sophie Burkholder Senior year is a time for embracing clichés. We get coffee with our exes, dabble in the pre–professionalism we once condemned, and venture beyond Penn’s campus into the gleaming Philadelphia metropolis. So, on one warm evening last week, my fellow SWUGs and I took a walk down the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, a promenade that boasts such grand buildings as the Philadelphia
Museum of Art, the Franklin Institute, and City Hall. We marveled at the architecture glowing in the golden hour light and smiled at the jubilant children running through the fountains of Dilworth Park, until we came to the most monumental edifice of the Parkway and our first destination of the night— a place that glittered with the effusive glory of Americana, happy hour, and moz-
zarella sticks: TGI Friday’s. We were on a mission, you see, to stop at the best of Philadelphia’s casual dining chain restaurants with a $30 budget, and a time limit of three hours. Wearing cross–body bags and sensible shoes, we emerged from the SEPTA station to begin a trek that would take us to Friday’s, The Cheesecake Factory, Applebee’s, and Chili’s. Hungry for deep–fried apps
and thirsty for cheap sugary drinks, we filed through the art–deco entrance of TGI Friday’s and took our seats around the sports bar, perusing the menus with a sense of childlike wonder. Here, where every day is Friday, and where the waitress told me happy hour is “all night,” we basked in the vintage warmth of red vinyl bar stools and the woody smell of American draught beer as we waited for our $5 drinks to arrive. The seven of us selected from various flavors of margaritas and Long Island Iced Teas. One particularly alluring option was the “Blue Rita,” which arrived in a highball glass with no salt or sugar on the rim. Instead, the fluorescent blue beverage was garnished with a black cherry, which made it resemble a Blue Lagoon cocktail (another blue Curaçao–based
drink). Nonetheless, I certainly got my money’s worth in the swift kick of tequila underneath the sugary citrus flavors. As we all sort of stumbled to get down from the bar stools on our way out, I knew I wasn’t the only one starting to question the journey ahead. We burst back into the rush of the city, and headed down the Parkway toward our next destination: The Cheesecake Factory. A pair of regally gilded escalators led us up to the second story, where the postmodern design hellscape greeted us in all its orange–gold glory. The Cheesecake Factory is undoubtedly the classiest of the four restaurants we intended to visit, with some patrons wearing suit jackets that stood out in stark contrast to my toddler–like overalls. Unfortunately, this elevation of SEE BAR PAGE 28
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DINING GUIDE
Emily Johnson
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style means that this chain has no unending happy hour, and that drinks are often full– price. So, to appease our budget, we decided to share a few Mai Tais, which, the waiter excitedly reported, contained a whopping 3.5 ounces of alcohol each. Despite the high concentration of rum in it, this tall orange drink was quite smooth, and certainly one that you could easily chug. As for its efficacy, well, as my eloquent photographer Emily Johnson (E '20) put it, “You can get fucked up at The Cheesecake Factory.” The elevation of the restaurant gives you a beautiful view of City Hall and other nearby architectural marvels like the Girard Trust Bank (now the Ritz–Carlton Hotel). Doused in the glow of this honey–colored heaven, we all felt like high society, but our daydream was soon interrupted when the waiter delivered the tragic news of our canceled cheesecake order. Despite our shared lactose intolerances, we had all decided that a cheesecake–less venture to The Cheesecake Factory would be nothing short of criminal. But when told 25 minutes after placing our order that all of the available key lime cheesecake were frozen solid, we decided to leave, tails between our legs, for the sake of the schedule. Just around the corner was the chain we’d all secretly been waiting for: Applebee’s.
Notorious for its extremely cheap drink deals and appetizer combo options, this restaurant was the lifeblood of youth sports teams and their parents in my hometown. I expected comfort. I expected
homeliness. I expected the full embodiment of the ‘neighborhood’ slogan. I should have lowered my expectations. We walked into a largely empty, dimly lit sports bar setting, with pennants and posters for local teams exploding all over the cheap wooden walls. A slightly annoyed hostess led us to a long table in the back, where we sat on some rather uncomfortable chairs. Nonetheless, we spiritedly searched the menu for the month’s dollar drink deal, a blue Long Island Iced Tea dubbed the “Adios.” The drink comes in a
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ten–ounce mug as a gradation of vibrant blue that includes vodka, rum, tequila, gin, blue Curaçao, and Sierra Mist. Despite references to the boozy Long Island in the description, it would take at least five of these drinks to even begin to say “adios” to my sobriety. Truthfully, this concoction tasted more like Blue Gatorade than a cocktail. The idea of a dollar drink is always fun, until you realize that means there’s not a drop of alcohol in it. We used the Adios to chase down our three orders
o f mozzarella sticks before mapping out our final procession to Chili’s. Chili’s never held a special place in my heart. The only time I’d ever been to one was on a grade school trip to an indoor waterpark in northwest Pennsylvania with my family and childhood friends. Even so, I always found the concept of combining ribs and burgers with weighty tequila– based drinks to be a beautiful expression of American flavors. But with a thinning wallet, I had ambitions for only two menu items: a classic margarita and the famed
Awesome Blossom—a collection of deep–fried onion petals piled together in the shape of a flower. As we waited at our table under some especially bright fluorescent lighting, I tried to take in the ambiance, to discern whether this Chili’s would disappoint as the local Applebee’s had. With nearly floor–to–ceiling glass windows on one side of the restaurant, and mirrors above the booths printed with the Baby Back Ribs slogan, the restaurant was undoubtedly
more c h i c and modern than the one I’d visited with my family years ago. The uninviting furniture was made of cold shiny metal and tightly pulled vinyl, with no warmth or coziness to it at all. No, this Chili’s tried to be more upscale, made for the bourgeoisie. “I want my Chili’s to be for the people!” piped Emily. Our collection of margaritas arrived quickly, but the Awesome Blossom had yet to make an appearance, even after other food orders were served. When the manager approached our table,
I knew disaster had struck. “I’m so sorry,” she said. “We just dug through all of our freezers looking for more of the onion petals, but it looks like we just ran out. I deeply apologize for this.” The words cut me like a knife. I drowned my sorrows in what was left of my measly margarita and ordered some beans and rice to fill my stomach. I did not feel God in this Chili’s. Four drinks deep and three hours later, we descended into the nearest SEPTA station to head home. Grimy with the air of Center City and hazy from the alcohol, we collectively decided that it was time to fall into bed with a bag of chips and Buffy the Vampire Slayer. Mission complete, we patted ourselves on the back, and compared notes. Truth be told, we didn’t spend much less or more money than if we’d simply one to happy hours at bars closer to campus. No, the deep fulfillment of this journey came from its connection to days gone by. More comfortable than a McDonald’s and more personal than a Panera, these American chains bring me back to post–theatre slices of cheesecake in high school and basketball team dinners in grade school. The constancy of their menus and decor make memories from one location transferable to every other, letting you carry a small and clichéd piece of home with you no matter where you are in this country.
DINING GUIDE
The Definitive On–Campus Pizza Roundup
Understanding Penn, one on–campus pizza at a time.
Shannon Zhang 1. Axis Pizza Location: 20 S. 36th St., Philadelphia, PA 19104 A little ways from the Penn Bookstore lies Axis Pizza, which boldly states “Café & Salad Bar” in its logo underneath a red–and– white “Axis Pizza.” Unfortunately, the pepperoni pizza I was given in a white paper bag (for takeout) didn’t make up for the disappointing lack of pineapple and ham. The crust was hard, chewy, and flavorless, not unlike unsalted crackers. 2. Zesto Pizza & Grill, Pepperoni Slice Location: 125 S. 40th St., Philadelphia, PA 19104 Speaking of headaches, taking a bite out of Zesto’s pepperoni
pizza surrounded by bold, red walls and Hot Wheels-esque décor felt like I was being assailed by a nightmare with my eyes open. Zesto’s pizza boasts an incredibly thin, slightly soggy crust with a decent sauce–to–cheese ratio. Its pepperoni slices are large and generous, and definitively greasy. It needs a water chaser despite the gummy feeling the cheese leaves in your mouth. It’s pizza, all right. No other comments. 3. Allegro Pizza and Grill Location: 3942 Spruce St., Philadelphia, PA 19104 Unlike the 2 a.m. swarms of college–aged Allegro customers, when I walked in at noon, a child’s pizza party was taking place in the
restaurant. I ordered my two slices and had them in my hands at an alarmingly quick speed. Allegro’s pizza is high in grease and big in both slice and pepperoni size. It’s crispy and has a good cheese–to– crust ratio, yet is very sadly under– sauced. Although my first bite of pizza was more than good and my slices both exhibited excellent cheese pull, as I ate more, I found myself growing emptier from the lack of sauce and flavor—primarily on the pineapple pizza. 4. Papa John’s Location: 104 S. 40th St., Philadelphia, PA 19104 The pizza that I tasted was a full Hawaiian BBQ Chicken pizza with slices of pepperoni
on half of it. As with typical Papa John’s pizzas, I observed heavy cheese and sauce slippage, with emphasis on the sauce due to the sheer quantity of it. Yet the pizza isn’t gut–wrenchingly salty, and the topping–to–crust ratios are appropriate and consistent. The crust is doughy and large, but it’s also tasty and can be finished off without complaint. Papa John’s is a household name for families looking for a quick, easy bite for dinner, and it should be: it’s consistently good. 5. &pizza Location: 3925 Walnut St., Philadelphia, PA 19104 The &pizza atmosphere is jarring: black–and–white walls close in on you with loud music and lots of hard angles. I ordered the American Honey and Pineapple Jack pizzas on their preset, “The Hits,” menu. &pizza also offers a “Craft Your Own” pizza service, but ordering the
already–made pizza combinations is fast and easy. Both pizzas I tried were bursting with flavors: the American Honey, with sweet honey, spicy, small pepperoni slices, and the unmistakable tartness of goat cheese and the Pineapple Jack, with huge chunks of pineapple and tangy stripes of pickled red onion. 6. Zesto Pizza & Grill, Hawaiian Location: 125 S. 40th St., Philadelphia, PA 19104 The perfect pizza slice doesn’t care about what kind of flame– decorated shop it's born out of, or what its pepperoni sister tastes like. Zesto’s Hawaiian pizza, the only Hawaiian pizza I tasted with bacon, is the best slice of pizza I ate on this long, long journey. It’s cheap, sold by the slice, and not too salty. The ratios on this slice are perfect: thin crust, ample sauce, and enough cheese for a cheese pull.
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DINING GUIDE
Bloomsday Cafe is a Breath of Fresh Air in Society Hill This bright new cafe offers eclectic ingredients in classic dishes. KARIN HANANEL Photos: Eleanor Shemtov In the sleepy residential neighborhood of Society Hill, there is an evident need for more neighborhood dining spots. Though options may be limited, locals can still find places that are quick, high– quality, and family–friendly. And now, the new Bloomsday Cafe manages to encapsulate all of those aspects, while also offering an amazing selection of natural wines, pastries, hot drinks, and more. On a chilly Friday morning, we walked into Bloomsday. Even with the gloominess of gray skies and a light drizzle that day, the space still felt warm, bright, and homey. In every little corner of the restaurant was a pop of color, brightening up the otherwise calm and muted space. Whether the lively decor was a moss wall, plants, or plush seating, the ambiance did not disappoint. Considering that Bloomsday is run by the same people behind Main Line favorite Green Engine Coffee Co.
and that they use Rival Bros. Coffee, we started with some cappuccinos—one with oat milk and one with whole milk. Both were creamy and rich, with the perfect balance of milk and espresso. And what’s a good cappuccino without a pastry to match? We chose the most attractive cinnamon brioche and chocolate croissants of the bunch and chowed down. The brioche was truly a beauty to behold. It was crispy on the outside while soft and buttery on the inside, each bite imbued with a kick of cinnamon sugar that made for a pastry experi-
ence that’ll rock your world. The chocolate croissant was equally delicious. In fact, the French photographer taking these pictures said that it even beat some Parisian pains au chocolat she’d had.
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Pastries were just the lead– in to a really exceptional lunch. From their noon menu, we ordered the avocado toast, soba noodles, and Emotional Support Hot Dog, a truly eclectic trio that managed to go together exceedingly well. First up was the toast, initially ordered for a good photo–op, that ended up being so much more than just photogenic. Served on Philadelphia Bread Co. bread and topped with pickled onions, pumpkin seeds, sherry reduction, and edible flowers, this avocado toast changed my perception of what such a dish could be. From the crusty bread to the acidic pickled onions to the crunchy pumpkin seeds, the textures and flavors worked in perfect harmony, making this avocado toast anything but basic. Next up was a massive bowl of soba noodles with duck, kimchi, a hard–boiled soy– marinated egg, sesame, fried shallots, and radish. Upon first taste, the noodles were
incredibly g i n g e r y, and best accompanied by the other elements of the bowl rather than eaten alone. The saltiness from the egg, pickled snap peas, and tender duck balanced out the sharp zest of the noodles. Chock–full of peppery ginger and salty flavor, this dish’s flavors may not be for everyone, but it was definitely tasty. Last but not least was the aptly named Emotional Support Hot Dog, which was a marvel to behold. Covered in purple strips of braised red cabbage, bright yellow turmeric sour cream, and sweet potato chips, this dog is a work of art. The pork sausage lives atop a sesame bun, with the starchiness of the bread balancing out the sausage’s succulence. The striking taste of turmeric also complements the dish, making for a quite varied mix of flavors. By the end of our meal, the quiet yet lively space we walked into was bursting with people enjoying coffees and lunches together on a weekday. The servers and baristas took the rush in stride, still offering great service
and smiles to everyone who walked in. Before we left I spoke briefly to the co–owners, Kelsey Bush and Zach Morris, ruminating on what this space used to be and about their vision for a neighborhood spot that can be enjoyed for generations rather than exclusively catering to what’s trendy. All I could think about as I left was that the previous dusty and often–vacant establishment had been there for too long, taking up space that could have housed the wonder that is Bloomsday.
TL;DR: Go to Bloomsday for the cozy vibes, laid–back atmosphere, and scrumptious food. LOCATION: 414 S 2nd St, Philadelphia, PA 19147 HOURS: Monday - Saturday: 8 a.m. - 3 p.m., 5 p.m. 11 p.m. Sunday: 8 a.m. - 3 p.m PRICE: $$
DINING GUIDE
Alimentari's Got Your Fix for Rustic Italian Fare This new cafe above Di Bruno Bros has the pizza and affogato you need. ALLISON WU Alimentari—an Italian cafe and wine bar—opened over a month ago and sits on the second floor of Di Bruno Bros near Rittenhouse Square. The restaurant is rustic but sleek, furnished with smooth hardwood floors and geometric hanging lights. We’re seated at a wooden table in the corner of the restaurant by a waitress who wears a taupe apron over a casual outfit. “Sir Duke” by Stevie Wonder plays as a few patrons chat quietly over their menus while sipping espresso and wine. We first bite into the Roman– style, square–cut asparagus and summer zucchini pizza, and— oh gosh, the textures. The fluffy ricotta and mascarpone cheese, crisp crust, and juicy asparagus and zucchini swirl together in the creamiest way. It’s topped with a little spice from a generous garnish of basil and sharp locatelli cheese. The pizza is light and healthy, but so good that it doesn’t taste like it. Next, we dive into a small plate of roasted branzino, whose outer skin is crunchy but whose meat tenderly flakes on my knife. The fish swims in a sea of fregola, which has the “al dente” bite that connoisseurs always seem to be searching for. Overall, the dish is elegant, but a little small for its price and admittedly a downgrade from the pizza. We eat the 1730 kale and summer panzanella salads last. They’re plated together, and the color of the melons in the summer panzanella matches the vibrant green of the kale one. The salads, both of which contain seasonal fruit, are perfumey and light. The ultra– sweet grapes in the kale salad contrast with the salty dressing, but the kale itself is a little too tough. The summer panzanella, however, is divine. The cantaloupe and watermelon in the salad are juicy but firm enough so they
don’t mush together, and the arugula and cool cucumber counter the sweetness of the melon. Before we leave, the chef surprises us each with an affogato ($7), essentially a scoop of vanilla ice cream doused in espresso. But Alimentari doesn’t stop there. Two waiters soon come out with the cups of ice cream, each topped with a pile of cotton candy. The wispy sugar wilts as our waitress pours espresso coffee over it. It dissolves immediately in my mouth, leaving a bitter, cocoa aftertaste. The ice cream sweetens the rich espresso, making it enjoyable for even the non–coffee drinker. Less than an hour after we arrived, we scoot out of our chairs, leaving smudges of cocoa powder on the table. We’re moderately full, but completely satisfied with the attentive service, authenticity, and lightness of the meal—though I must admit that Alimentari is a little pricey for its portion sizes. As we near the bottom of the stairs, we disperse into the Di Bruno Bros market, on the lookout for cheese samples and tiramisu squares. TL;DR: A restaurant that serves up some of the freshest and lightest dishes in Philly. DON'T MISS: Asparagus and summer zucchini pizza (a seasonal dish, so go now!) LOCATION: 1730 Chestnut St. 2nd Floor HOURS: Monday–Saturday: 11 a.m.– 8:30 p.m. PRICE: $$
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