10.25.2017 by 34th Street Magazine

October 25, 2017 34st.com

DINING

GUIDE FALL 2017

TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS 4

24 Hour Wood Fired

Bar Amis

Sate Kampar

Interview a Chef

Rione

D'jakarta BYO

Vegan/Vegetarian

Gluten

Smokes

Dining Hall Guide

Walnut Street Cafe

Just Salad

Blue Duck on Broad

Goldie

Dae Bak

Capofitto

Humpty's Dumplings

Pizza Dad

Love and Honey Chicken

Cheu Fishtown

Bao-ology

10below

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DINING GUIDE

LETTERFROMTHEEDITOR

I like to cook when I’m stressed. Not that meal prep bullshit (do I look like Rachael Ray to you?) – I’ll spend, like, three hours stirring a pot of bolognese. I know I could be at a happy hour or working on a paper, but cooking for myself tastes better than washing down Stat homework with a bottle of Soylent. It feels like a gift, really. Serving myself a plate of pasta is the gustatory equivalent of a pat on the back. When life stresses me out, it’s nice to cook up a reward for myself. I can table that stress for some other time. When everything is moving forward at a fever pitch, it seems so much easier to scarf down a salad in Huntsman than it is to slow down, sit still, and have a nice meal. At Penn, we work hard, play hard, and don’t take time off to indulge in meals – unless it’s Restaurant Week and

it’s obligatory to go because of a hastily filled–out Google Form from two weeks ago. Food can feel like a chore, an unnecessary pause between studying for exams, or preparing for interviews, or whatever else we convince ourselves that keeps us “so busy.” But food is a treat, one we all deserve. So read this Dining Guide, then put it down. Go make dinner plans with a friend — hell, take yourself out for a meal (hugely underrated). Enjoy it. I recommend consulting the Dining Guide for suggestions, but, hey, I’m biased.

Photo: Autumn Powell

Angela Huang, Dining Guide Editor Orly Greenberg, Editor–in–Chief Dani Blum, Managing Editor Chloe Shakin, Audience Engagement Director Teagan Aguirre, Design Director Carissa Zou, Design Director Corey Fader, Photo Director Zack Greenstein, Design Editor Christina Piasecki, Design Editor Katherine Waltman, Design Editor Sim Stadlan, Design Editor Avalon Morell, Photo Editor Autumn Powell, Photo Editor Megan Kyne, Photo Editor Christina Piasecki, Photo Editor Emily Hason, Video Director Daniel Rubin, Video Editor Megan Kyne, Video Editor

Lea Eisenstein, Copy Director Sophia Griffith-Gorgati, Copy Editor Nancy Liu, Copy Editor Kimberly Batista, Copy Editor Colleen Campbell, Copy Editor Kolade Lawal, Copy Editor COVER PHOTO: by Corey Fader Contacting 34th Street Magazine: If you have questions, comments, complaints or letters to the editor, email Orly Greenberg, Editor–in–Chief, at greenberg@ dailypennsylvanian.com. You can also call us at (215) 422-4640. "I like when you talk about cones." www.34st.com ©2017 34th Street Magazine, The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc. No part may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express, written consent of the editors (but I bet we will give you the a-okay). All rights reserved. 34th Street Magazine is published by The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc., 4015 Walnut St., Philadelphia, Pa., 19104, every Wednesday.

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DINING GUIDE

24 WOOD FIRED FARE: NOT YOUR BASIC BRUNCH Sweet, Savory, Southern

Penn students brunch in style. If you’re looking for a new option to add to the brunching repertoire that won’t require an impractical daytime excursion deep into the city, 24 Wood Fired Fare is conveniently situated just past the Walnut Street bridge, just far enough to feel special but close enough to walk to. The convenient location is especially ideal when midterm season is in full swing. The interior of

24 is homey without feeling cluttered, decorated with simple southern décor. There’s also an outdoor seating area with views of the Schuylkill. 24 is known for their pizzas, but the Steak and Eggs is a heartier brunch packed with protein. The steak is tender and well proportioned to go with the eggs, potatoes, and bacon. If you’re in the mood for hardcore comfort food, nothing beats the Chicken Waffle.

Drizzled with syrup and garnished with bacon, the chicken has a fried exterior that matches the sweet and savory waffle batter. Leaving 24 will feel a little jarring, like stepping back into the harshness of reality after the bliss of a savory, sweet, Southern–style meal.

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Photos: Christina Piasecki TL;DR: Come for a not–so–basic brunch. DON’T MISS: Chicken Waffle SKIP: Sitting indoors—there's lovely outdoor seating. WHEN TO GO: Brunch LOCATION: 2401 Walnut Street, just past the Walnut Street Bridge PRICE RANGE FOR A BRUNCH PER PERSON: $$

DINING GUIDE

BAR AMIS IS A GEM Take your actual Amis to this South Philly gem.

Photo: Corey Fader Right at the entrance to Philadelphia’s historic Navy Yard sits one of the newest additions to Marc Vetri’s culinary empire. Bar Amis serves up the high– quality food associated with the original Amis at 13th and Pine Streets, along with a glorious view of the Navy Yard’s harbor. Opened at its new location on June 27, Bar Amis features several location–specific items that showcase the best of Vetri’s gastronomic craftsmanship. I was lucky enough to score a patio seat facing the harbor to enjoy the restaurant’s Italian cocktail menu. The menu features creative takes on the classics such as its bourbon smash (bourbon, berry jam, and lemon) and sicilian lemonade (house–made limoncello, mint, prosecco, and soda). I opted for the lemonade, which was de-

lightfully sweet and did not go overboard on mintiness. I began with a signature small plate only found in the Navy Yard Amis location menu, the Hoagie Toast. A twist on the traditional Italian–American classic hoagie, the open–faced baguette is topped with cubes of provolone and a mixed meat sausage (capicola, sopressata, mortadella, and fennel salami) doused in a mayonnaise–based sauce with greens. As the world's biggest charcuterie board fan, I was ecstatic—the homemade sausage is one of the best I’ve ever had. I moved onto the spicy chicken salad slider, a dish that takes the classic chicken salad sandwich and adds the kick of spicy pepper powder and smatterings of blue cheese. The dish is a perfect companion to the restaurant's wide selection of

craft beers, from Victory Round Robin to Ginger Shandy. However, the best part of the meal was the pairing of a dry riesling from Mosel, Germany with the main course of jalapeño and almond bucatini with charred octopus. My inner wino was charmed; high–quality, imported riesling can be hard to find in the U.S., and is especially refreshing when you’ve only been having the Barefoot California riesling. The bucatini’s nutty

flavor and soft notes of spice (jalapeño is boiled separately and then added) balances the strong citrus, floral, and peach notes of the Selbach grapes. The spiciness of the jalapeños highlights subtle salt notes in the complex body of the wine, while the octopus is tender and didn’t overpower the other notes in the pasta. For my final dish, I ate the famous house rice pudding filled with hazelnuts and fig jam. I was tempted to order the amarena

cherry topped sundae, but my server assured me that the pudding was a fan favorite at Vetri’s other Amis locations. He was correct: the hazelnuts create the perfect blend of sweet, salty and umami. It should go without saying that you should take your actual Amis to this South Philly gem of a restaurant. Personally, I would absolutely come back—if only to re–experience that riesling. MICHAELA TINKEY

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TL;DR: If you find yourself around Navy Yard, check out Marc Vetri's new take on his long–lasting (and eternally beloved) restaurant Amis. DON’T MISS: The charcuterie board...there's truly nothing better than homemade sausage SKIP: Sitting inside. The patio seat (and the view) were perfect. WHEN TO GO: Monday—Thursday: 11 a.m.—9 p.m., Friday and Saturday: 5 p.m.—10 p.m. LOCATION: 4503 S Broad Street PRICE RANGE: $$

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DINING GUIDE

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SATE KAMPAR DINING GUIDE

WILL SATE YOUR

CRAVINGS It’s like going to Malaysia but, like, much cheaper.

Photos: Corey Fader

In East Passyunk, Sate Kampar sits comfortably between a men’s boutique and an antique shop. The coffee bar and open kitchen give the restaurant a casual vibe during the day, but the limited seating and dim lighting create a more cozy feel during the night. Visually, the BYO restaurant is more “hipster brunch” than “Malaysian street food” with its exposed

brick walls and glass bottles of water. I browsed my menu with high hopes. The menu offers a variety of Malaysian foods, with a focus on sate, or skewered meats. There are two types: sate kajang, served with spicy peanut sauce, and sate melaka, served with pineapple peanut sauce ($10 for five skewers). We ordered a set of each and savored the balance between the smokiness of the grilled meat and the acidity of the sauces. The spicy peanut sauce was not as spicy as I’d anticipated, but still added a burst of flavor and an unexpected consistency to the meat. Everything on the menu is designed for sharing. In addition to the sate, we ordered nasi lemak bungkus (coconut cream–soaked rice topped with peanuts, anchovies, and a spicy sauce that’s all wrapped in a banana leaf, $8) and rendang daging (braised beef in a paste of mixed spices and coconut cream, $13). Famous in Ma-

laysia, the nasi lemak bungus packs a punchy coconut flavor and lets you control flavor level by adding the spicy sauce and other add–ons (and it’s aesthetically pleasing—I’d Insta that shit). My favorite part of the evening was definitely the rendang daging, which also has a strong coconut base (I’m getting the sense that meat and coconuts are popular in Malaysia) as well as an aromatic mix of spices. The tender beef is spicy at first but mellows out, much like my personality over the course of a drunken Friday night. The restaurant also features popular Malaysian drinks. Sate Kampar offers a number of kopitiams—different forms of coffee and tea drinks—and minuman—Malaysian classics like fresh Malaysian coconuts. And you thought drinking from a coconut only happened at the beach. CHEN CHEN ZHANG

TL;DR: Skewered meats and coconut flavored foods will make you feel like you’re picking up street food in Malaysia. DON’T MISS: Malaysia is famous for their sates so definitely try those out, and the sauces go great with rice. SKIP: The Nasi Lemak Bungus was delicious but not worth $8 for coconut flavored rice. WHEN TO GO: When you want to indulge in Malaysian classics LOCATION: 1837 East Passyunk Avenue PRICE RANGE: $$ 8

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DINING GUIDE

STREET INTERVIEWS HIPCITYVEG FOUNDER NICOLE MARQUIS

On business and burgers

In 2012, Philadelphia native Nicle Marquis opened the first HipCityVeg. Five years later, she now runs Bar Bombon and Charlie was a sinner. in Center City, as well as four HipCityVeg locations across Philly and DC. Nicole spoke to Street about entrepreneurship, Penn's campus, and the famous banana whip. ON THE ORIGINS OF HIPCITYVEG: When I became vegan, my life changed as a result, because I realized that what we eat affects not only our health, but also the environment and other living things. I recognized the tremendous impact that eating a solely a plant–based diet has on the world. That’s really when my life pivoted and I decided, “Okay, how do I bring this to millions of people everywhere?,” which is the big vision and my mission. So I was working in restaurants, paying my way through grad school and college, and I left grad school to start this, because I became so passionate about it. So what I did was I created a menu that I thought people would be attracted to. I thought, “What is it that we really want to eat?” We want to eat a crispy chicken sandwich. It’s just so good, and you go to McDonald’s for it, you go to Wendy’s for it. So I thought, “This is the model.” And so I just spent months and months and months going back and forth with chef consultants, coming up with the right flavor profile. I said, “Well, I want to do a ranch.”

And they said, “What about ON CHOOSING peppercorn ranch?’” And I’m PENN’S CAMPUS FOR like, “Yes!” Like a back–and– HIPCITYVEG’S SECforth, really creative process, OND LOCATION: coming up with the right It just seemed perfect. Penn menu that we still sell today. is known for having the most innovative, creative students. ON THE VALUES THAT You’re always pushing the enDRIVE HER BUSIvelope, as forward–thinking NESS: and very progressive people. It’s all part of one thing. Also in West Philly, the resiEmbracing our healthy bod- dents there were a great fit as ies, our stewardship to the well. And so we wanted to be planet, and compassion for a part of that—there was synall living things — they’re all ergy there. For us it was a no– connected. And so living a brainer, it was like, “We’re happy, fulfilling life for me is preaching to the choir,” bebringing all the parts into the cause we knew that our audiwhole, really thinking about ence is here. It was a key to life in a holistic way, making our success, reaching out to wellness a lifestyle. So I defi- the students at Penn. nitely had to apply it to my business. And you see that in the composting, which is 100% plant based—which automatically makes us, I dare to say, the most sustainable restaurant company in the city. That’s a bold statement. I just applied that holistic lifestyle I wanted to live, and I took that into the business and created…a triple bottom line, where we think about people, planet, and profit, in that order. And the order is very important. So it’s good for the people, for our health, for our lives. And then the planet: How can we make sure that we are supporting sustainability? And lastly is profit. Because we need profit in order to grow, a part of our big vision is growth. It’s inherent in the model — we have to grow to reach more people.

ON SUSTAINABILITY AND VEGANISM IN THE FOOD WORLD: We’re seeing this trend of menus really adopting vegan options. And this is big. This is why it’s so freaking satisfying to continue to do what we’re doing, because this work is brutal. But there’s such a great impact when you can do it, and we’re seeing it already. People care about what they’re eating. And that’s just now starting to become a conversation. Five years ago, when I opened the first HipCityVeg, I didn’t talk about anything. No one wanted to hear about factory farming when they were about to or-

der a veggie burger. It’s just not a good look, and I didn’t want to alienate anyone. I wanted everyone to come into our restaurant and just try the food because I knew if I could get a Ziggy Burger in their mouth, or a vegan Philly Steak Sandwich, I knew I could bring them back. Today, it’s very different. I can now really tout the environmental impact that we’re having, and people want to hear about that. I can focus on the purpose, on the “why” behind it. And it’s just an added value to our customers. They feel good about it. CAROLINE CURRAN

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DINING GUIDE

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8 Reasons Why Dim Sum is the New Brunch Dim Sum House by Jane G’s on 39th and Chestnut is your new go-to spot on a Saturday morning.

No, not that Smoke's The first thing you notice when you walk into Smoke’s Poutinerie is the red and black plaid that wallpapers the restaurant. Then, the portrait of its founder, Ryan Smolkin, who beams from the restaurant’s takeout boxes, wallpaper, and menus. Legend has it that the Canadian concocts each menu item from his cabin on the Quebec border. The menu is as quirky as the decor: fries are not only topped with the classic gravy and cheese curds, but also with unexpected ingredients like sriracha and peas. Located on the equally weird and wonderful South Street, Smoke’s Poutinerie brings poutine with personality to Philadelphia. The chain’s goal is “global domination.” It’s an ambitious goal, what with healthy fads like pressed juice and poké sweeping the nation. But Smoke’s Poutinerie is uncompromising in its mis-

sion, advertising poutine—a mix of French fries, gravy, and cheese curds—with banners emblazoned with “Clogging Arteries Since 2009!” Manager Lonnie Glickman tells me that “as long as you don’t eat, like, four poutines, you should be fine.” I’m more than fine, two poutines later. It’s Canadian comfort in a takeout box, and more than sates my craving for grease. Lonnie, a gracious host, recommends the Korean poutine and pierogi poutine. While sriracha on poutine may seem daunting, the Korean Poutine is Korean barbecue with a Canadian flair. Coated with rich gravy and melted–just– right cheese curds, topped with Korean style flat iron steak, green onions, and dressed with sambal (a traditional chili paste) and pools of sriracha sauce, it’s fusion food done right. The spicy Asian flavors don’t overpower the poutine

underneath; it tastes like Koreana and McDonald’s had a love child. The pierogi poutine is richer than I’ll ever be. Bacon bits lay atop a line of pierogies and sour cream. And of course, gravy, cheese curds, and fries (you know the drill). It’s Guy Fieri’s wet dream (but Canadian). The pierogi poutine is more subdued than the Korean poutine, umami instead of fiery. Taking a bite of a pierogi is like feeling a Polish grandmother wrap you in her arms, all warm and cheesy and wholly pleasant. Cholesterol never tasted so good. Smoke’s Poutinerie disregards traditional ideas of poutine and even ideas about chain restaurants. With dishes bursting with originality and flavor, Smoke’s Poutinerie may conquer the world through saturated fats just yet. You can’t help but root for them, eh? ANGELA HUANG

Photo: Christina Piasecki

Dim sum is a dining tradition rich in cultural history

Originated thousands of years ago in Southern parts of China, dim sum has now evolved to become a casual meal to be enjoyed on those lazy weekend mornings.

get to taste the best of two 2 You worlds, Shanghai & Hong Kong. Within Shanghai cuisine, the pork soup dumpling is the most renowned. Thin, flour wraps of juicy pork broth served with sliced ginger vinaigrette will give you layered texture and lingering smell.

dim sum gives you the 3 Bite-size excuse to try and eat more. The small portion of each dim sum basket allows you to mix and match anything that catches your eyes, all at an affordable price. You will never regret over a large plate filled with something you don’t fall in love immediately.

The modern dining environment is perfect for a friends gathering or a date night.

The sleek black and red design at Dim Sum House by Jane G’s gives you the perfect backdrop for your #foodinsta and fits nicely to your overall Instagram aesthetics.

can even have seafood along 5 You with dim sum, but with a twist. The new scallop puff pastry at Dim Sum House is just one of the delicious items on their new seafood menu.

6 Boozy dim sum is goals.

The new scallop puff pastry at Dim Sum House is just one of the delicious items on their new seafood menu.

dim sum can also be your 7 But hangover/comfort food. Another way to cure that hangover from drinking too much cocktails, wine and beer last night is to enjoy a plate of warm dumplings and roast pork bao at Dim Sum House.

TL;DR: Poutine as savory as it is uncompromisingly original DON'T MISS: Korean poutine/pierogi poutine—but hey, I’m biased. SKIP: You could opt for classic poutine, but why would you with dishes like

“Chicken Inferno Poutine” and “Hogtown Poutine?” WHEN TO GO: The store is open until 1 a.m. AND it’s on UberEats—late night munchies, anyone? PRICE RANGE: $

sum is all about sharing with 8 Dim your loved ones. Dim sum is not just a type of Chinese cuisine; it also symbolizes a communal culture, where you order dishes to share with everyone at the table and at the same time, you are spreading the love to those you care deeply.

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cosicosi 140140 s. 36th s. 36th st. st. dunkin dunkin donuts donuts 3437 3437 walnut walnut st. st. federal federal donuts donuts 3428 3428 sansom sansom st. st. greek greek lady lady 222222 s. 40th s. 40th st. st. hiphip citycity vegveg 214214 s. 40th s. 40th st. st. honeygrow honeygrow 3731 3731 walnut walnut st. st.

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DINING GUIDE

HOW YOU CAN EAT HEALTHIER AT PENN'S DINING HALLS A meal swipe a day keeps the freshman 15 away At many universities, the combination of dining halls filled with unhealthy options and the ease of a simple swipe into a cafeteria of endless food options sets up a recipe for disaster—or at least a recipe for the Freshman 15. But at

Penn, a.k.a. the college with the healthiest students, there are many options beyond buffalo chicken pizza and Belgian waffles. Daniel Connolly, Penn’s very own registered nutritionist, has collaborated with Bon Appé-

tit and Penn chefs to provide a healthier dining experience. “We try to make the healthy choice the easy choice,” he explained in reference to the placement of foods in the dining halls. When you walk into 1920 Commons, you imme-

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diately see the salad bar rather than the dessert section, and the comfort food is placed in the order of vegetables, starches, and then meats so that students are more inclined to build a healthy plate. Penn Dining has also implemented a “one third initiative,” which guarantees that at least one third of the food in the dining halls are healthy options. Additionally, students have access to free nutrition counseling for information on healthy eating and for addressing problems ranging from eating disorders to allergies. Having trouble finding healthy meals at the dining halls? I designed a healthy meal at every residential and retail dining location on campus, so you didn’t have to.

FALK KOSHER DINING Come for the food, stay for the conversation with the friendly chefs! Hillel is the only dining hall that offers made– to–order panini sandwiches. My panini contained turkey breast, lettuce, tomato, cranberry spread, and a garden spinach whole wheat tortilla—all for a total of 435 calories. ENGLISH HOUSE This salad contains spinach, tuna, hard boiled eggs, carrots, beets, chickpeas, cucumbers, tomatoes, and light balsamic vinaigrette dressing, giving you a source of energy for only about 335 calories.

MCCLELLAND EXPRESS McClelland Express’s fruit and yogurt bar provides a great 1920 COMMONS on–the–go option. The plain I crafted a platter combines the low–fat yogurt is just 40 calolemon herb roasted chicken ries a ladle, making this fruit (200 calories) from the grill parfait about 250 calories. with vegetables from the salad bar—coming in with a total of HOUSTON HALL 365 calories. The Pure Fare section of Houston Hall is home many HILL HOUSE healthy options. Pure Fare is a The new dining hall at Hill fast, casual, and healthy food College House has so many place in Rittenhouse Square, options that I couldn’t help but as a Penn student you can but create multiple meals. The get it right in your backyard! all–day breakfast station offers made–to–order omelets with ACCENTURE CAFE, egg whites available at your JOE’S CAFE, AND request. The Very Veggie staMARK’S CAFE tion offers Indian–inspired vegLocated in Towne Building, etables stewed in coconut milk Steiny D, and Van Pelt, respecinstead of oils and locally pro- tively, these cafes have a similar duced grilled curry tofu. The selection of healthy options. fruit salad station offers sea- Enjoy a study break with sushi, sonal berries and freshly–made a sandwich, a salad, soup, or La smoothies. The nutritional in- Colombe coffee. formation is not yet available for the Hill House menu items, *The nutritional informabut who needs caloric verifica- tion used for this article can tion when the food is grilled be found on the Penn Dining freshly in front of you? website. BRITTANY LEVY

DINING GUIDE

Photos: Autumn Powell

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hen Whartonite Marco Lentini (W’96, WG’02) quit investment banking to pursue his passion in food, he wanted to create a truly unique and enjoyable dining experience for the Penn community. Growing up in an Italian-American family, Lentini values high-quality food as much as the sharing of it with others. Built upon these essential concepts, Kitchen Gia was born. Located on 37th and Spruce Streets, Kitchen Gia is a restaurant that embodies the concept of “fast casual” – the combination of the speed of fast food with a casual, fine dining environment, meanwhile promising organic ingredients. It offers the best possible, healthiest and all-natural foods that give you the highest functional and nutritional

benefits. One of the specialties of Kitchen Gia is their chopped salads. While they may look like regular salads, they are actually presented in a completely different way. The ingredients are chopped and incorporated together, instead of layered. Why does this matter, you ask? The answer is, in Lentini’s words, “you barely have to chew it!” Chopped salads are the ultimate “fast food” because it takes half of the time for you to eat and they pack a punch of powerful nutrients that will keep you energized for a long school day. Even though every ingredient is chopped before making into your bowl, the preparation process is not sacrificed for a bit. All the ingredients still go through the rigorous process of being

BY KITCHEN GIA

roasted, peeled and cut etc.. What eventually goes into your Kitchen Gia salad is going to be a quick eat of fresh and healthy goodness.

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DINING GUIDE

Photos: Autumn Powell

WALNUT STREET CAFÉ:

FROM COLD BREW TO COCKTAILS If the food isn’t enough to convince you to come by, know that going to Walnut Street Café is an experience in itself.

Floor–to–ceiling windows, gold accents, and clean, straight lines—this is what you see when you walk into Walnut Street Café. Located at the base of the FMC tower on 30th and Walnut Streets, Walnut Street Café is a welcome new addition to University City. The windows reveal a picturesque view of the other side of the Schuylkill. Inside, the restaurant possesses an interesting dichotomy: the right side is a sun–dappled café with countertop seating and a gleaming cappuccino machine,

while the left side has an open kitchen bordered by another bar and a dozen or so seating options. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Walnut Street Café caters an American bistro style of cuisine with a modern aesthetic. For dinner, there’s a raw bar and a mix of warm and cold dishes. In the mood for shareable small plates? Try the pan–roasted scallops (with a mouthwatering carrot, ginger, and mint puree), the clambake flatbread pizza (with a creamy, white sauce and just enough

brine), or the ceviche (hint: it changes everyday). Rather have something all for yourself? Go for the grilled pork loin with tender broccoli rabe, or the hamburger with Wisconsin cheese and caramelized onions. For those with food allergies, fair warning: like the name of the place suggests, nuts are everywhere at Walnut Street Café—in the sauce, in the garnish, as an aftertaste, even. As for drinks, the menu offers a party on top and business on the bottom: in the morning, you can start your

day off with some Rival Bros. coffee, and swing by after work for a Concrete Jungle that has enough of a kick to get you through to the next work day. They even have a margarita machine here for hurricane and pina colada requests. At the end of the night, if you’re feeling indulgent, go for the warm, flaky apple pie. Or, if you’re more of a chocolate connoisseur, the milk chocolate mousse comes with caramel popcorn for just the right amount of sweet and salty. If the food isn’t enough

to convince you to come by, know that going to Walnut Street Café is an experience in itself. You’ll walk in, soft pop music tinkling behind you, and slide into a multi– toned leather booth before a waiter deposits a perfect piece of flaky, salted bread on your plate (even the bread here is good). If you leave for the bathroom at any point during your meal, you’ll come back to your napkin folded on your seat, like an offering. That’s the kind of place Walnut Street Café is. SABRINA QIAO

TL;DR: From pastries to pizza, come here for an all–day dining experience. DON’T MISS: The pan–roasted scallops or the apple custard slab pie SKIP: The raw bar shrimp (try the oysters instead!) or the Romaine salad (go for the good stuff instead!) WHEN TO GO: When you’re trying to impress that cute date of yours or when you’re looking for an Instagram–able brunch spot that’s within walking distance of campus LOCATION: 2929 Walnut Street PRICE RANGE: $$

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JUST SALAD: DINING GUIDE

Photo: Megan Kyne

Now Open @ 36th & Chestnut St!

FEEL GOOD ABOUT EATING GREEN Now Open @ 36th & Chest

While the restaurant’s name is underwhelming, its salads are not.

In a prime location just steps from Rittenhouse Square, Just Salad cultivates a calming, minimal aesthetic. Exposed brick contrasts with the light–colored wooden tables and stark white booths. The perky succulents laid out on each table add a lush breath of life to the space. Immediately, the workers behind the counter greet you with a smile, talk about their commitment to fresh, local ingredients and promote their reusable bowls (which you can purchase for $1). The counter is lined with dozens of trendy brands or chips and popcorn (definitely check them out). The menu contains plenty of salad options, and you can make your own if none of their creations are exactly what you’re looking for. I went with the Tokyo supergreens salad and the crunchy avocado toast. I sat at my cute little table and dug in. Each element of the salad adds another layer of flavor or texture—the bites of perfectly seasoned tofu add a pop of salt to counter the creamy cubes of avocado. The whole dish is anchored by the fibrous carrot

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edamame slaw, which provides a consistent crunch to suppleRittenhouse Square University City America’s First Montreal St Open 7am-4pm, 365 Days/Year Open 7am-9pm, 365 Days/Year ment the supergreens base of th Street 262 S. 20 3602 Chestnut Street Wood Oven Bagels kale, cabbage, and spinach. 215.545.0626 215.222.0283 Toasted almonds and roasted th th Rittenhouse Square Univers almonds round out the salad, Breakfast. Brunch, Lunch, Dinner & Catering Coming Soon to UniversityOpen City -7am-4pm, Spread Bar! 365 Days/Year Open 7am-9pm, giving each bite a more complex th Street 262 S.Via 20Postmates.com! 3602 Ches SpreadBagelry.com - Info@SpreadBagelry.com | Fast Delivery consistency. 215.545.0626 215.22 The crunchy avocado toast is Breakfast. Brunch, Lunch, Dinner & Cateri distinctive from other incarnaComing Soon to University City - Spread B tions of the trendy dish, elevated SpreadBagelry.com Info@SpreadBagelry.com | Fast Delivery Via by the addition of feta, pumpkin seeds, and crunchy fried onions. America’s First Montreal Style These three sprinkled ingre- America’s First Montreal Style Wood Oven Bagels dients add some depth to this Wood Oven Bagels familiar avo/bread combo. Additionally, the avocado to bread Rittenhouse Square Bar Open City Open 7am-4pm, 365 Days/Year Open 7am-9pm, University 365 Days/Year Rittenhouse Square University City ratio is just right, and the toast Monday-Friday Open 7am-4pm, 365 Days/Year Open 7am-9pm, 365 Days/Year Open Days/Year th Open 7am-9pm, 365 Days/Year Street 365 S.crispiness 20th7am-4pm, 3602 Chestnut Street carries that262 essential 7AM-10AM, 4PM-7PM 262 S. 20 3602 Chestnut Street Street th 3602 Chestnut Street that so many 215.545.0626 other places just262 S. 20 Street215.545.0626 215.222.0283 215.222.0283 215.222.0283 215.545.0626 can’t seem to get right. The ambience is great, so Breakfast. Brunch, Lunch, Dinner & Catering Breakfast. Brunch, Lunch, Dinner& & Catering Catering Breakfast. Brunch, Lunch, Dinner SpreadBagelry.com - Info@SpreadBagelry.com | Fast Delivery Via Postmates & Caviar Coming Soon to University City - Spread Bar! make a day out of visiting Just Coming Soon to University City - Spread Bar! Salad. Go to Rittenhouse Square Soon to Coming University City - Spread|Bar! SpreadBagelry.com - Info@SpreadBagelry.com Fast Delivery Via Postmates.com! - Info@SpreadBagelry.com | Fast Delivery Via Postmates.com! for a bit, then come here,SpreadBagelry.com get a SpreadBagelry.com - Info@SpreadBagelry.com | Fast Delivery Via Postmates.com! salad, sit at the window–side barstools and people watch while you eat. You can even do some work while sipping on one of their smoothies.

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TL;DR: NYC–based salad chain comes to Rittenhouse, combining a minimalistic aesthetic with great fresh salads, wraps, smoothies, and avocado toast DON’T MISS: The two for $12 combo where you can get a medium salad and a piece of avocado toast SKIP: Medium or heavy dressing—the “light” amount was just enough WHEN TO GO: When you need a break from campus LOCATION: 1729 Chestnut Street PRICE RANGE: $

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DINING GUIDE

BLUE DUCK ON BROAD: GO FOR THE ‘GRAM, NOT THE FOOD At least there’s a good caption: “Brunch on Broad with Babes” Photo: Autumn Powell The original Blue Duck New American BYO restaurant, located in Northeast Philly, has expanded to Broad Street. Owners Joe Callahan, Jr. and Kris Serviss pride themselves on offering delicious traditional dishes with a twist. The Duck offers brunch on weekends from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., with highlights ranging from the homemade chicken and waffles to duck benedict. I walked in knowing exactly

what I wanted: chicken and waffles. Roscoe’s House of Chicken and Waffles is one of my mustgo-to restaurants when I’m home in Los Angeles; with its thin, light waffles and perfectly crisp chicken, Roscoe’s never fails to surprise me with this magical combination. So did I find Philly’s version of Roscoe’s? The entrance to Blue Duck is strange: I walked in and the hostess area was so tightly fit under the stairs that I couldn’t

get a comprehensive view of the restaurant. Once you walk in, though, you get a glimpse of the television screens surrounding the room, cool upstairs and outdoor seating areas, and a view of the bar. The interior has a lot of natural light coming from the many windows: it’s (well) lit! I ordered the chicken and waffles and coffee (because, hello, 11 a.m. on a Sunday). My friend ordered the duck benedict, another classic brunch serving. Our

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food came out relatively quickly and the presentation was beautiful. Right away though, I could tell the chicken wasn’t crispy—it looked drenched in some sort of sauce, which I later found out to be sriracha. Granted, I probably should have read the menu: “sriracha–buttermilk chicken, belgian waffle, bourbon syrup, powdered sugar.” The waffle was too thick for my taste—too heavy of a serving. And as I put my knife to the chicken, it went right through the middle! Where was the bone? The inside of the chicken had too much fat and was rubbery, and the skin was soggy—the exact opposite of the lightly crisped,

tender chicken I appreciate. The combination of a too–heavy waffle and soggy, weirdly sauced chicken was extremely underwhelming. My taste buds were not satisfied. I tried the duck benedict, hoping for redemption. Sadly, the duck was also too chewy and served with too much hollandaise. At least the eggs were nicely poached. I ended up drinking my watered down iced coffee, wondering if I should have ordered charred broccoli caesar or Fruity Pebbles French toast. #noragretz though? LUCIA KIM

TL;DR: Not a huge fan, but check it out for the 'gram DON’T MISS: Let Street know what’s good; sadly, we only found a photo–op. SKIP: A food, a drink, feeling guilty about getting the inevitable second donut WHEN TO GO: Brunch LOCATION: 220 S Broad Street

40th & Spruce St., University city • 215-382-1330 • copauc.com 2 2 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E O C T O B E R 2 5 , 2 017

PRICE RANGE: $$

DINING GUIDE

GOLDIE: FALA–FULL OF FLAVOR A taste of Israel

Photo: Autumn Powell Before we review the food, let it be noted that Mike Solomonov is our ultimate food crush. So naturally, we had already been liking and tagging each other in all photographic versions of the entrees offered at Goldie, Solomonov’s new vegan falafel restaurant in Center City, since it opened in April. We were not, therefore, surprised by the menu—which, like his other acclaimed restaurant, Dizengoff, focuses on perfecting just one dish: in this case, falafel with tahini. Both of us spent gap years in Israel, which may or may not have consisted of internal checklists of restaurants to try, so we weren’t exactly strangers to Israeli cuisine—some might even call us experts. Did we frequent every falafel shop in Jerusalem AND Tel Aviv and gain at least ten pounds in the process? Yes we did. But hey, we’re not bragging. Walking into the restaurant was a bit like taking a portal back to our gap years, with a high–end twist. In Israel, falafel places are usually over–crowded and hot,

with sweaty cashiers yelling in multiple languages and lots of pushing. Israelis stand around with their sandwiches in hand, or else elbow their way to one of the three tiny tables in the back. We appreciated the authenticity that Goldie tries to recreate—with not only small tables for sitting, but also a standing bar so you can schmooze while quickly eating your messy falafel sandwich. The service was fast enough to allow for a grab–and–go meal, but the ambiance was also nice enough to sit back and enjoy a leisurely meal. After ordering exactly everything offered on the menu—a falafel sandwich in pita from Dizengoff, a falafel salad, a side of fries, and every flavor of tahini shake—we waited (im)patiently for our photographer to arrive. We waited some more, salivating over the hot and beautiful food, and dared each other to nibble the tiniest amounts of the perfectly spiced and crispy french fries and then rearrange so that our photographer wouldn’t notice. Minutes,

which felt like hours, later, when the food was finally photographed from every angle, we dug in. The falafel was everything it promised to be—crunchy on the outside, spiced perfectly, and covered in creamy tahini. We recommend eating it fast and not letting it sit, so the falafel balls don’t get soggy in the tahini. The salad was light and crisp, with fresh mint, dill, parsley, zaatar, and lemon juice. While the rest of the food is classics perfected, the tahini shakes are Goldie’s innovative invention. There are four flavors: original, turkish coffee, mint chocolate chip, and coconut. If you’re vegan, you’re no stranger to cashew or coconut based milk shakes. Goldie’s milkshakes are instead sesame– based, and the sesame flavor is embraced rather than hidden. They are the creamiest, most delicious halva that you’ve ever tasted

TL;DR: Goldie is golden. Come for vegan, kosher eats that will transport you to Israel.

(if you’ve never tasted halva, get on that. It’s a sweet sesame dessert) in drink form. That being DON'T MISS: Have said, our absolute favorites were we mentioned the original and Turkish coffee, which falafel enough times? had pieces of halva on top (double No? Not enough? whammy!). The only caveat we feel compelled to mention is that SKIP: The Coconut the mint chocolate chip and coand Mint Chocolate conut were overwhelming when Chip Halva mixed with the already strong and interesting–on–its–own sesame flavor. WHEN TO GO: So whether you’re snooping for When you want to eat a good sandwich place to procras'til you're fala-full. tinate your math homework for multiple hours, Goldie is definitePRICE RANGE: $ ly the place to go. We had almost no complaints—except that our stomachs were simply not large is: tahini shakes for everyone! Start enough to contain all the food we supplying them at all your Hillel meetings and events! wanted to eat. Plus—this just in!—not only is Goldie vegan, but it’s certified NOA BAKER AND kosher too! What we mean by this SHOSHANA STERNSTEIN

Mon- Fri: 10:30 - 9 PM Sat: 10:30 - 8 PM Sun: 12 - 5 PM

2037 Walnut St Philadelphia, PA 19103 (215) 561-1071 wonderlandphilly.com

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highbrow ego food & drink film feature music arts lowbrow highbrow ego food & drink film feature music arts lowbrow highbrow ego food & drink film feature music arts lowbrow

DINING GUIDE FILM FILM FILM

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34TH STREET Magazine December 1, 2011 34TH STREET Magazine December 1, 2011 34TH STREET Magazine December 1, 2011

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8 88

• 215.387.8533 • •215.387.8533 PattayaRestaurant.com PattayaRestaurant.com PattayaRestaurant.com 215.387.8533 • University • •University 4006 4006 4006 Chestnut Chestnut Chestnut Street Street Street University City City City

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DINING GUIDE

Photos: Avalon Morell

NOT JUST GELATO: A NEAPOLITAN EXPERIENCE THROUGH CAPOFITTO Because we already miss Capogiro

Capogrio's gone, and now we're realizing we may need to call an Uber to consume the best gelato in the world. But if you’re already venturing into the city, go a little further. Visit Capofitto Pizzeria, owned by Capogiro, for a Neapolitan dinner and dessert. Capofitto, located in Old City, has the world–famous gelato in the front, but expands into a full lunch–and– dinner sit–down restaurant in the back. Walking in, you get the feeling that you’re not in Philly anymore, thanks to the the dim lighting and full view of the authentic pizza oven (flown in from Naples and assembled by an Italian artisan). THE APPETIZERS If you’re a meat eater: Try the polpette ($9), two large meatballs made with local short rib and pork that melt

on the tongue, covered in pomodoro (tomato sauce) and served with focaccia. If you’re vegetarian: Try the Capra Salad ($11), a salad made up of baby arugula, toasted almonds, goat cheese, and pancetta, served in a red wine vinaigrette. The baby arugula is locally sourced from Green Meadow Farm and blends with the goat cheese and hints of toasted almonds, all brought together by a light, lemony vinaigrette dressing. THE PIZZA: If you’re a meat eater: Try the prosciutto di Parma ($19), a classic prosciutto pizza with mozzarella, micro arugula, and tomato sauce. The proscuitto is balanced with the arugula underneath on top of the thin–crusted but fluffy dough. The crust is just as good as the pizza itself—slightly black-

TL;DR: Come to Capofitto for all types of authentic Italian fare. DON’T MISS: The gelato, of course SKIP: The salad—it might fill you up before the main course. WHEN TO GO: When you just really miss Capogiro in your life LOCATION: 233 Chestnut Street PRICE RANGE: $

ened, salty, and chewy. If you’re a vegetarian: Try the Genovese pizze blanche ($15). This white pizza, served with pesto in place of the usual tomato sauce, is artfully decorated with sliced eggplant, piennolo tomatoes, and shaved ricotta cheese. The tomatoes give each bite an extra burst of flavor, and the shaved cheese gives this pizza a lighter and less greasy feel. If you’re adventurous: Ciro

Pizze Blanche ($19), named after the chef ’s mentor in Naples, was a standout. Made with mozzarella, red onions, gorgonzola cheese, and pig lard, this is not your average pizza. Of the three pizzas, this was my favorite; the gorgonzola cheese combined with the lard and onions creates a rich and smoky experience that suggests a bleu cheese influence. This pizza was irreplicable, and I may come back just

to have another. THE GELATO: Incredible, as always. It was named the best gelato in the world by National Geographic (yes, the world. Take that, snobby Europeans) for a reason.

JULIA MESSICK

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DINING GUIDE

HUMPTY'S DUMPLINGS: A DRUNK FOOD DESTINATION Pizza is out. Deep–fried dough stuffed with unconventional fillings is in.

Photos: Megan Kyne

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The creators of Humpty’s Dumplings began with two goals: to create the perfect drunk food and to test the limits of what can be put inside a dumpling. They achieve the former by deep–frying their dumplings, made from scratch at an off–site kitchen. This allows the dumplings to stumble home with drunk you without getting cold and rubbery or sticking together. The dough–to–filling ratio is perfect even for a sober person. They achieve the latter by experimentation. My favorite was the Asian pork ($7.50), which is so juicy it didn’t need any sauce. What I’m saying is, pork inside deep fried dough is delicious—you heard it here first. A very close second was the cheesesteak dumpling. Here is what happens in your mouth as you eat the cheesecake dumpling: your teeth close in on the slight crust of sugar, then sink into the soft pillow of dough. The warm, creamy filling oozes from the first opening, then, as you sink deeper, explodes. Your mouth is full, but you still lick the sugar from your lips. Then you chew through the rest of the doughy

casing, blending it with the filling until, finally, you swallow and reach for another. The spinach mozzarella ricotta dumplings were kind of like spanakopita, and the vegan corn chowder dumplings were kind of like samosas. While these foods are traditionally served in a flaky, triangular pastry, they really hit their stride inside a steamed three–dimensional geometric shape that tapered smoothly from a flat circular base to a doughy apex, which is the mathematical term for dumpling–shape. These are the only two I would recommend steamed rather than deep fried, and they both taste better with the Backburner BBQ Sauce. The peach cobbler dumpling needs to be deep–fried, though. It’s coated in cinnamon and brown sugar and tastes like something you’d have no regrets about eating at a fair. Thankfully, Humpty’s Dumplings takes suggestions. I know I’m not the only one hoping to see a bacon egg and cheese and a chocolate praline dumpling. STEPH BARRON

TL;DR: Give a dumpling the right filling and it can conquer the world DON’T MISS: The cheesesteak/cake dumplings SKIP: The salads. Who eats salad when dumplings are available? WHEN TO GO: Wednesday, when they have five dumplings for $5, or any time you’re drunk really LOCATION: 705 E Passyunk Avenue PRICE RANGE: $

DINING GUIDE

PIZZA DADS: A HIDDEN TREASURE

Our new Pizza Daddy.

As a native New Yorker, my knowledge of hole–in–the– wall pizza joints is as refined as it is extensive. When I walked up to Pizza Dads in Brewerytown and saw a cartoon pizza scrawled on the window and diner–style booths, I thought I knew exactly what I was in for. I couldn’t have been more wrong. I ordered the Cyndi, a red pie topped with mozzarella, arugula, roasted beets, and goat cheese and drizzled with balsamic glaze. The earthiness of the beets and goat cheese paired with the fresh arugula is a rich twist on typical red pie fare; such attention to detail is not characteristic of a hole–in–the–wall pizza shop. As I downed my second

slice (the Jane—Pizza Dads' ‘classic’ pie that, topped with grana padano, aged provolone, and a few of the spinach leaves peeled off just seconds before serving, still bears hints of the Cyndi’s unique flavor), I noticed how many passers– by waved to the employees in Pizza Dads and stopped to chat: this was clearly a neighborhood favorite. The reason was obvious. On my way out, as I lamented that my vegetarianism prevented me from eating the employee–favorite Randolph (jerk chicken and pineapple), the wonderfully outgoing and kind staff members offered me a Leo white pie to take home to my friends. Maintaining Pizza Dads' per-

sistent attention to detail, the pizza baker himself asked me if I wanted my Leo lightly or heavily cooked. He recommended light, and cooked the pizza crust to perfection: not so thick that it felt gross, but not so thin that it was crunchy. Whether you’re a pizza connoisseur looking for a new haunt or an average Penn student looking to order a pie for a club GBM, you won’t be disappointed by a Pizza Dads pie and the treasure trove of flavor within it.

TL;DR: A thoughtful and unique twist on your average pizza DON’T MISS: The Cyndi. SKIP: Eating at the physical restaurant. Pizza Dad’s pies shouldn’t be confined to a physical space. WHEN TO GO: Order in after a midterm, a break up, even on a regular day. Can’t go wrong. LOCATION: 2843 W Girard Ave PRICE RANGE: $

CLARE KEARNS

Photos: Corey Fader

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DINING GUIDE

LOVE & HONEY FRIED CHICKEN Chicken with soul

MICHAELA REITANO JILLIAN KARANDE

Photos: Autumn Powell You don’t need to travel down south to get your soul food fix. Love & Honey Fried Chicken brings the flavor to Fishtown with carefully crafted cuisine, homey ambiance, and warm service. Owners Todd and Laura Lyon have built a brick–walled shop that's certainly something special. Each aspect of the dining experience enhances the next and engages your senses, from the comforting smell of the food to the funky music to the welcoming personnel. There’s no getting around it: the chicken is the star of the

show. Todd has spent years refining his chicken recipe, and his hard work has paid off. He says it all starts with the quality of the chicken, which is completely free–range and devoid of any hormones or antibiotics. Each piece goes through an eight–hour brine before finally being coated with the Lyons’ secret recipe and then placed in the fryer. The result is the fried chicken of your dreams. The skin is perfection: salty and crunchy and topped with a touch of honey–drizzle that makes your taste buds sing.

You’ve never known happiness like this. But hold on—it’s not over yet. Once you crack through that shell, you find meat that is unerringly soft, juicy, and briny. The two textures dance cleanly in your mouth, without any excess grease or fat. You have the option of getting either three pieces or six pieces with your meal, although three is definitely enough for one person. And what’s truly commendable about the Lyons’ product is the fact that you don’t walk away from it feel-

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ing like you’d expect—that is, bloated, regretful, and a little bit ashamed. For fried chicken, Love & Honey is remarkably clean cuisine. Even though the chicken is the main attraction of Love & Honey, the sides hold their own like it’s nobody’s business. The cornbread muffins that come with each three–piece and six– piece order are sweet without being saccharine, and the salted honey butter that comes with each muffin takes this side to a whole new level. A quick tip about another side at Love & Honey: forget everything you know about coleslaw. Most restaurants treat slaw as a throwaway side, serving you some cabbage swimming in mayo that you ignore and push to the edge of your plate while trying to enjoy your entree. One more time

for the people in the back, forget everything you know about coleslaw. Love & Honey’s slaw tastes unbelievably fresh with its homemade buttermilk ranch base coupled with the surprising addition of dill in the mix. It’s the perfect companion to the slight sweetness of the fried chicken. Don’t sleep on it. As far as the mac and cheese goes, its creaminess and lightness in flavor is reminiscent of a macaroni or potato salad. So if you’re a mac salad fan, this side is for you. We even tested our theory and took the mac and cheese home with us for leftovers, popping it in the fridge. The next morning was cold macaroni paradise. In comparison to the cornbread and the slaw, the mac and cheese isn’t the star of the show, but it’s a testament to the quality of Love & Honey.

LOCATION: 1100 N Front Street TL;DR: Easily Philly’s best chicken shop of the moment with unbelievable sides and mouth–watering desserts. Run, don’t walk. DON'T MISS: The chicken, the sweet potato pie, or the cole slaw. The full experience. SKIP: The mac and cheese unless you’re planning on popping it in the fridge back home to save it for later. WHEN TO GO: If you’re exploring Fishtown or about to see a show at the Fillmore, walk two blocks. You don’t want to miss this. PRICE: $

DINING GUIDE

Photos: Autumn Powell

Cheu has versions of its restaurant all over the city, with its original Cheu Noodle Bar at 10th and Spruce Streets, a smaller stand in the Fairmount Whole Foods, and Bang Bang Dim Sum in East Passyunk. Its newest iteration, Cheu Fishtown, focuses more on snacks and sharing dishes than noodles and ramen. You’re even able to share ramen—the restaurant provides restaurant–goers with tongs and spoons to split the noodles amongst themselves. Cheu Fishtown’s physical space is striking: upon entering, you’re greeted by a long brick bar, industrial lighting made of repurposed objects, sky–high ceilings, a huge mural and a marquis with a list of its beers. The space, once an old stable, has since been repurposed and now hosts about 40 seats in its cozy yet still spacious and well– lit space. Burrowed in Fishtown, this restaurant is a little farther off campus but worth the Uber ride. Our first dish was the beef and kimchi bing bun. The bun is made of a crispy shell of bread— like dough filled with ground beef and topped with thousand island dressing. While the dish is enjoyable, its execution falls a bit flat—the dressing overpowered the flavor of the kimchi and the bun’s texture is quite bready. The

bun was one of the more forgettable dishes we ate—there are other things on the menu that are more worth your appetite. Next, we had the green curry chicken wontons. We stuffed ourselves full of these little pockets of flavorful goodness. The dish comes with peanuts and daikon on top of six perfect bites, along with green curry sauce and cilantro. The first bite brings slight hints of green curry, but rounds out with the flavor of cilantro; what could have been an overwhelmingly rich dish ends up being manageably light. When we had eaten all of the dumplings, we wanted to lick the plate clean of the amazing sauce. Cheu is known for its eclectic takes on ramen, so we tried its brisket ramen. The dish came with ramen, a matzo ball, kimchi, and brisket, bringing Jewish deli favorites to a staple dish. The noodles were fantastic and had the perfect amount of chew and bite; they were not too soggy and not too heavy, something that is one of the biggest mistakes of ramen. The brisket was slightly dry, but the matzo ball was a wonderful added texture to the dish. The broth was very so—so, without a lot of flavor, but the noodles made up for it. We would love to come

CHEU’S NEW RESTAURANT IS ABOUT WAY MORE THAN NOODLES

back and try their miso ramen to switch up the broth for their kick– ass noods. Finally, we tried the mapo tofu rice cakes. These little kickers had so many layers of flavors: sweet to spicy to salty all at once. The rice cakes are like little rice gnocchi that come with tofu, mushrooms, and yu choy in a chili sauce. The yu choy adds a bright flavor to the dish as well as some crunch.

Come for some kick–ass noods.

TL;DR: Cheu Fishtown is worth the Uber ride for the green curry chicken wontons and the tofu rice cakes— you’ll want to bathe in the sauces afterward. DON’T MISS: The ramen, duh SKIP: The beef and kimchi bing bun WHEN TO GO: When you need some noods in your life LOCATION: 1416 Frankford Avenue PRICE RANGE: $$

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DINING GUIDE

BOW DOWN TO

Photos: Christina Piasecki

bao logy

A course in Taiwanese history After a quick ten–minute mid– afternoon walk from the Rodin Museum, I found myself strolling into the recently established Bao–logy. I was greeted by a bright, sleek interior with a kiosk ordering system similar to Honeygrow's. The restaurant, marketing itself as specializing in “modern Taiwanese street food,” opened only this past June, but owners, Judy Ni and Andrew Tessier are no newcomers to the food industry. Before Bao–logy, the husband and wife duo specialized in the farm–to–table culinary approach with their previous restaurants The Farm & Fisherman and Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Ni, inspired by her family’s efforts to cook with the highest

quality ingredients (usually the produce growing in their own backyard) and the street food eating culture in Taiwan, came up with the concept for the new restaurant. Tessier and Ni’s devotion to fresh ingredients is apparent— all food is made onsite, and kitchen staff even come in before hours to prepare the ingredients (which are always kept on low inventory to ensure quality). The street food facet of the restaurant is reflected in the portable packaging of each dish. The name Bao–logy comes from the Taiwanese word bao meaning, bun, package, or something wrapped. This theme is seen in not only the presentation of the food but also the actual menu items themselves, with most dish-

es prepared wrapped in dough, buns, or thin spring roll wrapping. Menu items focus on variations of three dishes: potstickers, gwa baos, and ruen bings. Options such as Bao–logy’s “com bao” and “bian dang” give customers the ability to sample all three specialties. The potstickers, which are wrapped in thin dough made on site fresh every morning, come in portions of three, six, or nine ($3.50—$9.50) with the option to mix and match shrimp and pork, chicken, and vegetables. I went for the pork and shrimp potstickers and was pleased by the texture of the crisp seared bottoms and the soft steamed tops of the dumplings, as well as the surprisingly harmonious pairings

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of the two forms of protein. Gwa baos ($3.75) are sweet fluffy buns stuffed with a variety of fillings. I went for the traditional pork belly gwa bao and was stunned by the amount of flavor in what appeared to be a simple dish. The meat filling is slow–roasted in togarashi aioli and paired with pickles and peanut powder. The third specialty, ruen bings ($4.25), are large spring rolls jam–packed with carrots, cabbage, shiitake mushrooms, garlic chives, hoisin sauce, peanut powder, and the customer’s choice of protein. I found the ruen bings to be the most filling item on the menu, especially because the diverse range of flavors packed into the spring roll make for a hearty experience. Each menu item has a vegetarian option. When asked more about the methodology behind the “modern Taiwanese street food” concept, Ni explained that including the word “modern” was deliberate because Taiwanese food is constantly evolving and extremely specific to its place in the country’s history. As a nation that has been subjected to foreign occupations and influenc-

es such as the Dutch, Spanish, and Japanese, Taiwan is ever–shifting in incorporating foreign culinary styles. This can be seen in the menu’s “bian dings,” which are a Taiwanese twist on the traditional Japanese bento box. The cultural specificity of Taiwanese cuisine is also exemplified in the street food tradition, in which each vendor specializes in a singular dish. As Ni explained, although the menu may seem simple, it actually represents over a dozen different street vendors, with each item reflecting a particular vendor’s specialty. What I found most amazing about Bao–logy, aside from the amazing pork belly gwa baos, was how what seems like an ordinary menu actually is a narrative of Taiwanese culture and history. Baology invites customers to look past generalized assumptions about different global cuisines in order to appreciate the nuances and cultural specificities each country’s food has to offer. Come to Bao–logy for a course of Taiwanese modern street food as well as a course in Taiwanese history. KIANA CRUZ

TL;DR: Leave your assumptions about what Asian food should be and embrace the nuanced flavors of Taiwanese modern street food. Don’t miss: Pork belly gwa bao Skip: Staying in your comfort zone When to go: For lunch, since ingredients are kept in low quantities and may be sold out by the late afternoon. Location: 1829 John F. Kennedy Boulevard Price Range: $$

DINING GUIDE

10BELOW’S ROLLED ICE CREAM IS A

PERFECT 10

Thai–style rolled ice cream wasn’t a thing on the East Coast before 10Below opened its first location in New York’s Chinatown. Two years later, New Yorkers and tourists alike flock to the small parlor on Mott Street to get their hands on these sweet, creamy desserts—and to up their Instagram game. Thankfully for Philly–based sweet–tooths, the chain just opened its first store right across from Liberty Place. Street decided to test if it lives up to the hype. In the Uber, I thought I’d picked the worst day to go to 10Below—it was a sunny Saturday afternoon, and I was ready to face an interminable line of curious Philadelphians. Ten minutes later, lo and behold: the tiny store was pretty much empty, save for

the four workers smiling at passerby from behind the floor–to– ceiling windows. Their attitudes contrasted with the cold, minimalist space; the color scheme is dominated by shades of white and grey, and there is little to no décor. The store’s selection wasn’t huge: there were eight pre–made mixes to choose. After what felt like an interminable debate with myself, I decided on the banana and Nutella “Monkey Business.” I paid for my order and sat down at one of the high tables by the window. An employee seemed baffled: “Aren’t you going to watch?” Of course I did. Rolled ice–cream isn’t only a dessert, it’s a spectacle. I watched the man pour the condensed milk, mashed bananas, and Nutella

blend onto the icy surface. It was fascinating to see how what was at first a pale yellow, unappetizing mush quickly turned into five (very Instagrammable) ice cream rolls. But before I dove in, I ordered toppings: the $7 you pay aren’t just for the ice–cream, but also for an unlimited selection of toppings. I decided to follow the magic recipe of syrup, nuts, and carbs, and went for chocolate glaze, coconut flakes, and Oreo cookies. It was only after the dessert ended up on both my Instagram and my Snapchat story that I finally dove in. Remember that scene in Ratatouille when food– critic Anton Ego seems to have a sudden epiphany after taking a single bite of his favorite child-

10Below’s rolled ice–cream is so good you’ll forget you’re in the U.S.

hood dish? That’s how I felt. now—I’m happy to say—on me. Sweet and creamy, the rolls were CAT DRAGOI a one–way ticket to Thailand in a paper cup. I was struck by how TL;DR: 10Below’s fresh and natural the bananas rolled ice cream is so tasted, and how subtly (but efgood you’ll forget you’re fectively) the hint of Nutella in the U.S. matched them. The coconut Don’t miss: The topflakes and the cookies added pings bar! Add a personsome much–needed crunchiness, al touch to your flavor of while the chocolate syrup sweetchoice. ened the 10Below’s ice cream to Skip: Other desserts, the point where it became, well, and treat yourself to as a perfect ten. many rolls as you can As I got into my Uber back, I handle. thought of what I would order When to go: Whennext time. I remember reading ever you feel like getting somewhere that planning your an instant mood–boost. next “fix” was a sign of addicLocation: 42 S 17th tion. MKTG101 students, take Street note: 10Below’s strategy worked Price Range: $ on hundreds of New Yorkers, and

Photos: Paige Fishman

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