Fall 2013 Dining Guide

October 23rd, 2013 34st.com

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DINING GUIDE

Domino’s

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Get your favorite pizza, oven-baked sandwiches, and cheesy bread at our two locations!

215-662-1400 4438 Chestnut St. Philadelphia, PA

215-557-0940 401 N. 21st St. Philadelphia, PA

Open Late, Deliver Late: Sun-Thur 10:30am-1am • Fri & Sat 10:30am-3am Any delivery charge is not a tip paid to your driver. Our drivers carry less than $20. You must ask for this limited time offer. Delivery Charges and Tax may apply. Prices, participation, delivery area and charges may vary. Returned checks, along with the state’s maximum allowable returned check fee may be electronically presented to your bank. © Domino’s IP Holder LLC. Domino’s Pizza ® and the modular logo are registered trademarks of Domino’s IP Holder LLC.

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october 22dining guide 2013

FROMtheEDITOR

nightcap

When it’s your last Woodser, your last Homecoming, your last chance to use pre– registration as procrastination, you start to dwell a lot on your firsts. Nostalgia is inevitable— those were the best of times and thanks to Philly, a lot of them happened out to dinner.

I remember my first BYO, right down to the dress my mom had told me was “perfect for college nights,” the flats I wore that hurt my feet and the jean jacket I’d picked up to be chill. We went to Marrakesh — seven girls strung together by six degrees of separation, my first bottle of Yellowtail, not my last bellydance.

Last weekend, when I checked into Little Fish, ac-

companied by a bottle of Riesling I’d purchased legally and a dude with a job, I felt like a different person. Then I sat down, 6th Street dimming around me, no corkage fee, a dozen oysters on the way, and silently I changed my mind.

Unlike our schedules, our friendships (though I’ve gotten pretty lucky) and our GPAs, Philadelphia’s dining culture is steadfast—not stagnant, reliable.

Cheers to this semester’s Dining Guide. It’s my last and I love it like it’s 2010.

34th Street Magazine Nina Wolpow, Editor–in–Chief Sam Brodey, Managing Editor Alex Hosenball, Online Managing Editor Chloe Bower, Design Editor Sarah Tse, Photo Editor Olivia Fingerhood, Assistant Design Margot Halpern, Assistant Design

DINING GUIDE

Reviews 4 Boot and Saddle 5 Tiffin Bistro 6 BrazBQ 8 The Corner Foodery 9 Gennaro's Tomato Pie 10 Honey's Sit 'N Eat 11 Fitler Dining Room 12 Happy Noodle Bar 13 Kermit's Bake Shoppe

15 RX, The Farmacy & Strangelove's 16 St. Declan's Well & Noord 18 Little Nonna's 19 Luke's Lobster 20 Pizzeria Vetri 21 Indeblue 22 The Victoria Freehouse & Rybread 23 Serpico 24–25 Food Porn 25–47 Listings

Price per person $: 0-$10 $$: $10–20 $$$: $20–30 $$$$: $30–40 $$$$$: $40+

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Marley Coyne, Food and Drink Ryan Zahalka, Food and Drink Cover Photo: S a r a h T s e Contributors: Byrne Fahey, David Ney, Jessica Yackey, Madeleine Wattenbarger, Isa Oliveres, Alex Sternlicht, Michelle Ma, Paul DiNapoli, Cassandra Kyriazis, Emily Marcus, Faryn Pearl, Anna Rosenfeld, Michael Gu, Jack LaViolette, Morgan Pearlman, Casey Quackenbush, Sydney Werber, Naomi Shavin

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Contacting 34th Street Magazine: If you have questions, comments, complaints or letters to the editor, email Nina Wolpow, Editor-–in–Chief, at wolpow@34st. com. You can also call us at (215) 898-6585. To place an ad, call (215) 898-6581.

Visit our web site: www.34st.com "I came in like a Hosenball." ©2013 34th Street Magazine, The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc. No part may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express, written consent of the editors (but I bet we will give you the a-okay.) All rights reserved. 34th Street Magazine is published by The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc., 4015 Walnut St., Philadelphia, Pa., 19104, every Thursday.

Corner of 27th and South St.

Phone: (215) 546-7301 We’re Moving to 2206 Washington Ave. next week

DIRECTIONS: Just past the South St. Bridge on the right

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DINING GUIDE

Head east to go west

boot and saddle 1131 S. Broad St. @BootsAndSaddle (267) 639–4528

City folk get country at a new gastropub

By Sydney Werber | Photos by Sarah Tse Don’t be fooled by the folk–art cowboy murals and informal high–stool bar and table seating. Boot and Saddle caters not only to your inner beer–drinking, backcountry urges, but also to your more refined tastes.

As Philly’s one and only country bar, the revamped Boot and Saddle modernizes its rugged history with a focus on live music and an “anti– gastro pub” menu crafted

by Barbuzzo’s previous chef, Christopher David. The 10– item menu is surprisingly satisfying in the variety of preparations and locally–sourced ingredients.

We decided to start with the cauliflower croquettes ($7). The crispy skin of the croquette accentuated the fluffiness of the whipped cauliflower. These textures paired

with a garnish of pickled apples and almond–date relish made for the perfect balance of sweet and tangy.

Reluctantly, we switched our attention to the spicy sautéed greens, ($6) which appeared to be a warm spinach salad drowning in liquid. The strength of the ginger flavor and the explosion of spices overwhelmed the potential of the pickled cranberries and textured grains. We could have definitely gone without this dish.

We were also disappointed with the grilled cheese sandwich ($10). The bread was oil–soaked and way too thick, especially for the measly filling. On opening the sandwich, it became obvious that the cheese, shitake bacon and cured tomatoes were fresh and well–seasoned but together

Don't Miss: Spicy sauteed greens Skip: The grilled cheese sandwhich $$$$$

resembled dripping slices of oiled toast.

The marinated butter squash ($8) put us back on track. The arugula, pickled apple and fennel salad paired well with the squash—an unexpected but welcome combination. We loved the contrast in flavor, texture and temperature between the warm, dessert–like squash and the crisp, acidic salad.

Some dishes need restructuring, but we have faith that these are just growing pains.

Overall, Boot and Saddle is a great venue for good food, beer and music—a satisfying sensory experience with only an exception or two.

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DINING GUIDE

On the Tiffin My Tongue

tiffin bistro

Mid-priced Indian with above average taste By Marley Coyne | Photos by Sarah Tse Wharton MBA and restaurant Munish Narula’s latest brainchild has become the third stake in his mod-Indian tripod. Tiffin Bistro provides a more sophisticated version of Narula’s Tiffin restaurant chains without reaching the level of his high–end Indian fusion, Tashan. In the heart of South Philly, Tiffin Bistro provides a welcome compromise.

When I enter Tiffin Bistro, there are three other people in the restaurant: all waitstaff, sitting around the bar and chatting. The hostess looks up, with some degree of surprise, and seats me at a table by the window before returning to her conversation. The restaurant has dim lighting and clean, white tablecloths. It doesn’t reinvent the wheel, but the setting provides a sophisticated reprieve from the cam-

pus–quick eateries to which I’ve grown accustomed.

I start with the pesto naan ($6). The naan comes with four slices for sharing with a pesto glaze that neither soaks nor overwhelms the bread.

The flavor of the sauce is similarly understated. Next comes the cauliflower bezule. I put

aside my childhood hatred for all things vegetable to the try the dish—and for good reason. The bezule makes for another excellent appetizer with a sweet coconut sauce. The fried cauliflower itself is delicate and flaky, coming apart with the stab of a fork.

As I continue eating, a few

other patrons filter in, but the restaurant never fills. But it’s a Monday, and it’s barely six o’clock. The waitress returns to the table with my entree: the Indian-British staple, chicken tikka massala ($14).

The Tiffin iteration proves markedly standard.

The chicken is a little tough but is drenched in a creamy traditional sauce that makes this shortcoming less noticeable.

The dish does nothing to distinguish itself from any other version I’ve had, though to its credit, portions are generous and have me stuffed before making it halfway through.

Dessert is the kulfi fallooda ($6), a pistachio ice cream with a basil seed and rose syr-

1100 Federal St. @TiffinBistro (215) 468–0104

Don't Miss: Cauliflower bezule Skip: Tikka masala $$$$$ up garnish. The ice cream is too frozen upon first attempt but after thawing for a few minutes proves light and satisfying. The rose sauce sweetens, the pistachio pieces add salt and the basil provides the finishing touch.

Tiffin Bistro is exactly what you’d expect from a midrange Indian food: nothing more, nothing less.

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DINING GUIDE

Churascu-Rockin’ It

Brazilian bursts into Drexel’s already impressive food truck menagerie

By Sam Brodey | Photos by Sarah Tse

EVERY TUESDAY FROM 5PM TO 7PM

LOCAL DJs SPINNING

Say what you want about Drexel—but damn are its food trucks good. Penn isn’t exactly a food truck desert. Mssrs. Bui and Hemo consistently deliver superb food and the devotees of Koja and Yue Kee are legion.

But the world north of Chestnut is the true promised land for mobile fare, and BrazBQ is a major reason why.

The BrazBQ is the creation of a proud Brazilian, Adriano Redante, who immigrated to the United States in 2000. The truck stands out from the more conventionally–colored ones on 33rd Street: its hue is a deep green and the sides are decorated with the yellow diamond and blue globe found on the Brazilian flag. After a decade of cooking experience in the Philadelphia area, Redante decided it was high time Philly had a truck that served Brazilian rotisserie meat, called churrasco (chu–HA–sco), and BrazBQ was born.

EVERY FRIDAY NIGHT FROM 9PM TO CLOSE

3945 CHESTNUT STREET • PHILADELPHIA, PA 19104 • 215.222.1657

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Late in the lunch rush on 33rd Street, Redante is outside of his truck, shaking hands with customers and speaking with them in English, Spanish and Portuguese. He shakes hands with me and my friend, then tells the young cook inside the truck to “take good care of these guys!” Redante and his team at BrazBQ deliver on that promise.

brazbq

33rd and Arch St. @BRAZBQ (215) 208–5755

Don't Miss: Sao Paulo Skip: Guarana $$$$$ While sipping a can of imported Red Bull–flavored Guarana soda ($2), I order the steak sandwich ($6), which comes on a kaiser roll loaded with steak, thin slivers of potato, lettuce, tomato and homemade chimichurri, a tangy, herbal sauce that accompanies beef. The sandwich is simple, meant to highlight the star of the show: the steak. The bite– size pieces are flavorful, succulent, not too rare or overdone.

BrazBQ’s steak is what Chipotle steak wants to be when it grows up.

My friend ordered the Sao Paulo sandwhich ($6). Between its kaiser buns sits ham, bacon, lettuce, tomato, cheese and a sunny–side–up egg, drizzled with herb mayo. It’s a creative sandwich, one that you’d be hard–pressed to find anywhere nearby. That’s good news for BrazBQ because this it’s addicting. The runny egg soaks into the bun, mixing seamlessly with the generously portioned ham and bacon, making for even, delicious bites. It’s a Brazilian Cubano on steroids—hold the pickles.

If you’re feeling indulgent— and carnivorous—you can’t do much better than BrazBQ. Sure, there’s Fogo de Chao, but save yourself $50 and the carton of Tums and pay Mr. Redante a visit instead. There’s always the walk back to campus to work it off.

DINING GUIDE

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20 South 36th St. 20 South 36th St. Philadelphia, PA 19104 Philadelphia, PA 19104

CALL 215-382-2199 OR CALL 215-382-2199 OR ORDER ONLINE AT WWW.AXISPIZZA.COM ORDER ONLINE AT WWW.AXISPIZZA.COM

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DINING GUIDE

This Corner’s Safe

the corner foodery

A new Rittenhouse spot isn’t long on creativity but delivers on comfort and variety

By Morgan Pearlman | Photos by Sarah Tse The Corner Foodery is relatively easy to find, its blackboards featuring daily beer specials and its bright neon sign glowing against the authentic red brick facade, smack in the middle of Rittenhouse Square. Though surrounded by the hustle and bustle of shoppers and tourists, the restaurant's overall effect is a welcoming and quaint look. Inside, the contemporary pub is complete with a blackboard menu and flat screen TVs built into the brick walls. Oldies–but– goodies play in the background. As soon as “Girls Just Wanna Have Fun” came on over the speakers I knew I was in for a good time.

The Foodery brews its own seasonal beers and offers 700

types of beers ranging from non–alcoholic to international. A hostess was ready to show me around, and explained all of the stocked beers and those on tap, and even offered me some tastes, which I gratefully accepted.

After we ordered at the counter, the huge portions of food were delivered to us in baskets lined with parchment paper. The roasted turkey sandwich ($10) was heaped with rosemary pesto, arugula and roasted bell peppers on a hoagie bun. All sandwiches can be served over a bed of lettuce, too. The massive portion size made me feel like I really got the bang for my buck. Though after the excitement of the hip, yet warm, atmosphere and wit-

nessing the vast beer selection I was slightly disappointed with the quality of my sandwich. While I did enjoy it, and certainly left feeling very full, the turkey was a little dry, and the extra ingredients seemed to just be plopped on top.

I enjoyed my side dish of warm mozzarella with sea salt ($5) much more. The mozzarella came soft and buttery and left me feeling very satisfied. My friend chose the breakfast burrito ($8) paired with crispy brunch potatoes, which was clearly a far better choice than my sandwich.

The burrito was wrapped in a perfectly crisp tortilla, filled with a warm mixture of veggies, eggs, cheese and beans inside.

CONTINUOUS CRAB LEGS

The Corner Foodery, if nothing more, is the perfect place to hangout for a Sunday afternoon of football.

With flat screens, gigantic portions, ample seating and an insane selection of beer,

1710 Sansom St. @CornerFoodery (215) 567–1500

Don't Miss: Beer on beer on beer

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DINING GUIDE

Not Generic, Gennaro’s

Gennaro's Tomato Pie

Top-notch pie puts the cheese on bottom | Review and Photos by Michael Gu Gennaro’s Tomato Pie proves that time machines do exist.

Open the door to Gennaro’s, walk through the curtains and you’re instantly transported to a 1940s pizza shop. The genuine vintage ’40s propaganda posters adorning the walls, timeworn radios blaring big–band swing and antique chairs from the original Lombardi’s pizza shop in New York make it hard to remember that it’s 2013, not 1943.

Gennaro’s appetizers offer a tantalizing preview to the pies.

Aside from fresh ingredients, Gennaro’s salads ($7.50–$8) have two unique elements: croutons made from baked pizza crusts and a noteworthy dressing. Simplicity is key, according to owner Mike Giammarino, who revealed that the

House Salad’s dressing is only an oil and vinegar mixture.

For an appetizer, we ordered the meatballs ($5). Although intimidating at first, the two large, meatballs covered in a rich tomato sauce were gone instantly.

We tried two pies: the classic tomato with pepperoni, and a white pizza with spinach and pancetta, both on thin, well–

made crusts. Thin–crust pizzas are risky, and I’ve eaten one too many that taste like pizza sauce slathered over a saltine cracker.

However, Gennaro’s method for success lies in its unique oven system, which replicates the effect of a brick oven but uses electricity in place of coal, resulting in a crispy, chewy crust that complements the

toppings.

The white pizza is topped with a mix of whole milk mozzarella, ricotta and romano, with the pancetta adding the perfect touch of savoriness to the otherwise more simply– flavored cheeses and spinach.

But the star of the show was the pride of the restaurant, the classic tomato pie. It was a great example of the variety that results from the construction of the tomato pie (cheese first, then the sauce is drizzled over): each bite was unique and delicious, and each mouthful was dominated by a different flavor, rotating between the tangy basil–infused sauce, warm cheese or a bit of chewy pepperoni goodness.

As good as the pies are, you have to save room for dessert.

1429 Jackson St. @GennaroTomatoPi (215) 463–5070

Don't Miss: The namesake pie

Skip: Salad, obviously $$$$$ Gennaro’s serves house made, authentic American–style desserts, not your ad nauseum tiramisu or zeppoli. If you want something rich and creamy, go with the chocolate cream sponge cake ($5) (a recipe passed down from Gimmarino’s grandmother), or if you’re more for tangy and sweet, go for the pineapple upside down cake ($6.50).

Gennaro's doesn't try to make pizza more than it is.

Rather, the pizzeria's strength is in the details.

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DINING GUIDE

Southern–Fried Chutzpah

honey's sit 'n eat 2101 South St. @HoneysSitNeat (215) 732–5130

Southern and Jewish soul foods co-exist under one roof to mixed effect Review and photos by Faryn Pearl Honey’s Sit ’n Eat on South had a lot to live up to. Its original location in Northern Liberties is lauded as one of the best brunch places in Philly, and both the Southern and Jewish cultures it derives its cooking from adamantly claim to have the best food in the world. Now

located on a corner at the very top of South Street, the second Honey’s plays with this culinary tension to mixed results.

The decor takes inspiration from its Southern ancestry, a wide–open wood floor that, emptied of all its general store– chic knick–knacks and charm-

ingly obsolete furniture pieces, could easily house a hoedown.

However, the interior signals a big problem with Honey’s menu in both locations: the food never seems to combine its Jewish and Southern roots. It’s a struggle to find a unique mix of the two on its fairly expansive menu.

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In addition, Honey’s seems to equate Southern cooking with eggs; it’s in the egg–based dishes that you’ll find the most interesting cross sections of cooking.

Whether combining styles was the objective or not, it’s a lost opportunity to stand out in a city already teeming with excellent brunch hotspots.

That being said, Honey’s knows its flavor. The garlic pesto goat cheese burger ($12) was a delicious, if flawed, collision of thick, perfectly cooked beef and warm, melting goat cheese. The latter completely overwhelmed the burger’s many other ingredients—the pesto spread, panko bread crumbs and a whole egg were completely lost in the battle—but the combination of meat and cheese was enough on its own. The potato latkes ($2.50) were also a standout, the unorthodox ribboncut potatoes so robust and smooth that one bite seemed to fill every crevice of your mouth. Finally, the deep–fried chocolate chip cookie ($5), topped with vanilla

Don't Miss: Latkes Skip: Fried green

tomatoes

$$$$$

ice cream, was just as good as it sounds. Real good.

Unfortunately, the rest of the food was plagued by textural inconsistencies. The pumpkin pancakes, which had just the right mix of pumpkin, brightened by the occasional apple slice, were either softened by moisture or undercooked—either way, an execution mistake that added an unwanted density to the meal. Additionally, the fried green tomatoes ($6.25), breaded with enough kick to make its side of ranch a necessity, lacked the satisfying crunch that a crisp outer layer should provide. This sort of problem went all the way down to the apple sauce that came with the latke, its strange heaviness detracting from otherwise pitch perfect taste.

DINING GUIDE

Fit for Friday Night

Fitler Dining Room

A high-minded menu manages to keep it real | By Jack LaViolette | Photos by Sarah Tse The Fitler Dining Room, chef Robert Marzinsky’s most recent endeavor, will find itself among Philadelphia’s most prized corner bistros. Two full walls of windows let in the warm street lights of 22nd and Spruce streets, imparting invaluable openness to the dining room.

Inside, gleaming white subway tiles, stainless steel from the exposed kitchen, dark wooden tables and vintage–style incandescent lighting gently fuse classical elegance with a tasteful hint of industrial–chic. This was the backdrop for my meal, an unforgettable four–course affair.

We were greeted by the maitre d’, Michael, who helped us assemble our order. After warm, house–made potato rolls, we began with fresh New Brunswick oysters two ways ($2.50–$3): on

the half shell with pickled ginger–lemon mignonette, topped with roe, then in a celery roux with potato, fennel, onion and parsley atop toasted brioche.

The delicacy of raw oysters can prove precarious, but at Fitler they were masterfully handled; the savory–acidic interplay of the mignonette provided the complex foundation for the roe garnish, all atop the flavorful oyster. The warm, creamy base of the second variation was in appropriate contrast to the oce-

anic chill of raw shellfish, while the brioche added both texture and, along with the potato, a means to soak up the creamy savor of the roux.

Potato gnocchi ($15) followed, plated with peekytoe crab, chanterelle mushrooms, corn, peach and shellfish–lime butter. The peppery flesh of the chanterelle and the starchy gnocchi formed a canvas for the natural sweetness of the crab, underpinned by the corn, butter and (my favorite) the diced

peach. Despite lacking obvious textural contrast, the corn contributed surprising crunch and pop to the plate.

The Barnget scallops ($28) continued the seafood trend, served in a sweet corn chowder with marble potato, celery and mussels. The chowder felt somewhat redundant after the gnocchi and roux; however, these flavors pair for a reason, the chowder allowing the perfectly cooked scallops to realize their savory and delicately sweet potential.

Later, a beautifully cooked Moulard duck breast ($26) came served atop French lentils, a bright orange piquillo sauce, crushed almonds and saffron–infused dried apricots—a pretty plate. The rich duck meat retained its primacy

2201 Spruce St. @FitlerDiningRM (215) 732–3331

Don't Miss: von Trapp Oma cheese Skip: The oysters

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faced with the smoky pepper sauce and lentils, and the dried apricots contributed a dimension of tartness so complementary in duck recipes.

Though already four plates in, I willingly went for one more. I selected the von Trapp Oma cheese ($3) for dessert— raw cow’s milk cheese, plated with warm bread, cherry jam, honey and green apple. Fitler’s Dining Room provided elegant, thoughtfully–prepared food the whole night through; this dish proved to be the goodnight kiss.

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DINING GUIDE

A China-Frown for this Joint

happy noodle bar

No booze and mediocre Chinese eats at this bar | By Anna Rosenfeld | Photos by Sarah Tse Happy Noodle Bar feels less like a Chinese restaurant and more like what I imagine a nightclub would feel like if it didn’t have a liquor license and if nobody was there. Top 40 hits (along with an occasional “Glee” cover) blare loudly, and flashing colored lights illuminate the fake brick walls. Not my usual setting for eating mu shu chicken, but hey, it’s different.

Our friendly waiter gave us a thorough rundown of the menu, which varies from Americanized dishes like orange chicken to more traditional Chinese delicacies, like Peking duck and pigs ears. Not exclusively Chinese, the menu

also features other East Asian foods such as bibimbap and shabu–shabu.

The appetizers were by far the highlight of the meal, though Happy was out of the intriguing “Chinese Hamburger,” which our waiter told us was not to be missed. The Peking duck wrap ($2), while small, was warm and crispy, and the plum sauce brought out the flavor of the meat. The marinated sliced beef ($5.99) was also a hit. Served cold and topped with chopped nuts and herbs, the dish got us excited for our entrees to arrive.

Unfortunately, these less than impressed. Nothing on the menu was inedible, but

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the dishes didn’t leave us wanting more. My friend’s plate of stir–fry chicken noodles ($7.99), while heaping, was monochromatic and lacked the spicy aroma you expect from Chinese food. He described the meal as “decent, but pretty standard and unexciting.” My other friend, who ordered the vegetarian version of the same dish, was slightly more satisfied, crediting the bok choy and bean sprouts in her meal with adding some much–needed

flavor. My seafood bibimbap ($9.99) came out steaming in a stone bowl, the most aesthetically pleasing meal of the night.

Blandness did not abait, but we managed with the ever–faithful sriracha. The vegetables and seafood in the dish were cooked well, but the same cannot be said for the rice which was chewy and overcooked.

We hoped that our mediocre meal could be salvaged by a sweet treat, so we ordered a mango bubble tea ($2.95).

927 Race St. (215) 625–0133

Don't Miss: Peking duck wrap

Skip: All the main courses $$$$$ Alas, the drink was too milky and lacked the full mango flavor we expected.

While the company kept us happy, the food did not.

DINING GUIDE

It’s Easy Being Baked

Kermit's Bake Shoppe

South Philly bakeshop slings pizza and pastries | By Casey Quackenbush | Photos by Sarah Tse On a gloomy Tuesday around 6:00 p.m., we stepped into Kermit’s Bake Shoppe, the pizzeria–meets–patisserie, ready to indulge in a post– midterm meal. Despite the enormous rolling pin hanging from the high ceiling, our eyes fixed on the glass–enclosed menagerie that separates the entrance from the massive and conspicuous kitchen, exposing busy chefs at work. Kermit’s claims to give “mouths goose bumps”—as we salivated over the glass trove of sweet and savory goods, the statement proved accurate before our first bite.

Kermit’s takes your typical,

packaged supermarket comfort foods and refines them into a wide selection of carefully crafted dishes. Chef Brian Lofink adds a home–cooked twist to microwavable Hot Pockets to create the Cheeseburger Hot Pocket ($4). The dish’s blend of ground beef, caramelized onions and cheddar cheese enclosed in a warm blanket of buttery, flaky puff pastry is practically sinful.

Equally indulgent is the Pesto Hot Pocket ($4), stuffed with warm goat cheese and fresh veggies galore—artichokes, roasted red peppers, crimini mushrooms and almond basil pesto.

In addition to its hot pockets, Kermit’s offers a full selection of pizza. Sensitive taste buds can definitely handle the Fiery Sausage & Peppers slice ($3.25), topped with provolone and a medley of red hot peppers, garlic sausage and onions. The plain cheese slice ($2.25) however, was dry and underwhelming. And for those who don’t eat gluten, have no fear: Kermit’s offers numerous flavorful pizzas where the standard white–wheat dough can

be substituted for a gluten– free version without sacrificing taste. By the way, Kermit’s provides neither indoor nor outdoor seating, so delivery and to–go are the only options.

Appetites not yet satisfied, we approached the assortment of cleverly named, colorful desserts—a gourmand’s heaven should you find a few extra dollars to spend on slightly overpriced treats.

The cashier directed us to the salted caramel brownie

2204 Washington Ave. @KermitsPhilly (267) 639–4267

Don't Miss: Cheeseburger hot pocket

Skip: Salted caramel

brownie

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($4), “a customer favorite.”

However, the layer of sticky caramel, sandwiched between two blankets of dark fudge, does anything but complement the chocolate.

My disappointment subsided as I devoured the red velvet crumb cake ($4.00) and then fully disappeared with the exceptionally rich carrot loaf ($2.50). For larger occasions and appetites, the bakery offers cakes, pies and tarts starting at $18.

In sum, I’ll return to Kermit’s Bake Shoppe whenever I have some spare time, cash and room in my jeans.

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DINING GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE

What the Doctor Ordered Strange Not to Love West Philly gets a new go-to for smart comfort food Review and photos by Michelle Ma

Maybe it’s because it just opened in August, or because few students find time to venture past 41st Street, but why The Farmacy isn’t everyone’s go– to for a nice dinner spot escapes me. This Green Acorn–certified local eatery specializes in fresh, locally–sourced comfort food.

The look and feel jives well with its neighborhood a top–notch selection that holds no pretense.

The Farmacy is not for the calorie–conscious—the portions are hearty and filling.

Quite a few of the entrees were Asian–inspired, with a twist.

The Cheesesteak Spring Roll (price not listed), for example, was inventive in its concept and familiar in its aromas, small details like the Sriracha and ketchup dip adding the right amount of heat. The rich umami flavor of the Lobster Skins ($12) is brought together by the salty bacon, rich shellfish and a generous helping of sweet caramelized onion.

A warm, attentive wait staff accompanied the food. They explained that the restaurant’s name was inspired by the history of the building, which originally housed a pharmacy.

The attention to detail—from crafting the friendly, coffeeshop–esque decor to the selection of seasonal, responsible ingredients—makes The Farmacy stand out among its peers.

Above everything else, Rx the Farmacy just has a great vibe, with a soundtrack straight out of Dirty Dancing and a fun, neighborhood clientele, who would likely join you at Local 44 for a drink post–meal.

Rx, the farmacy 4443 Spruce St. West Philadelphia @thefarmacyrx

Don't Miss: Anything with Maine lobster Skip: Soup

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Funky southern fare stakes out a spot on South

By Jessica Yackey The phrase “southern comfort–inspired food” conjures images of paper bibs covered with finger–lickin’–good drippings, but the atmosphere of Strangelove’s is anything but unpolished. The brick walls, dark wood and extensive bar make for a warmly sophisticated restaurant. Strangelove’s displays a wide variety of whiskeys and offbeat craft beers that add an element of sophistication to the unavoidably messy feast heralded by the menu.

The two for $14 lunch special prompted our early afternoon visit but kept us from indulging fully in the alcoholic options.

Strangelove’s doesn’t take reservations for groups fewer than six, so if you’re looking to avoid lines go before the happy hour rush (5–7 p.m.). However, the hustle and bustle of this sociable beer bar doesn’t happen until later in the evening.

Strangelove’s New Orleans– inspired menu puts thoughtful twists on southern classics as well as eats you’ve never heard

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of. The appetizers aren’t exactly “Sips & Nibbles” as the menu suggests but rather, colossal servings that hardly leave room for more. The O. Redenbachers ($5) combines brown butter, cojita cheese and chilis for a spicy, sweet snack. Another play on a classic is Strangelove’s duck and sausage gumbo ($10). The combination of tender, sweet duck with spicy sausage is another example of this restaurant’s ability to combine the unexpected. Still not convinced? It has fried green tomatoes with lump crabmeat ($11).

The shrimp po’boy ($14) has an extraordinary range of flavors and textures folded into a single sandwich. Buttermilk battered and fried shrimp, dill pickle remoulade, shredded lettuce and tomatoes are served atop toasted rolls imported from New Orleans. Strangelove’s takes its ingredients seriously. The seared chicken sandwich ($11) is another great option. Molasses–Dijon mayo, white cheddar and roasted red onion relish atop tender chick-

strangelove's 216 S 11th St. @Strangelovesbar (215) 873–0404

Don't Miss: Shrimp Po'Boy Skip: Joe's Burger $$$$$ en and a fluffy bun make for intense sensory overload, but in the best way possible. Vegetarian and vegan options like Vegan Chorizo Tostadas ($13) are available, too.

If you still have room at this point, you are a complete and utter champion. Strangelove’s will reward you with some serious Southern sweets. A whoopie pie ($7) with pumpkin mousse and the Big Ass Brownie ($7) with cream cheese frosting and toasted coconut are only two of the sweets tempting you to unbutton your pants one notch further.

Philly is lucky to have Strangelove’s sophisticated take on Southern cuisine. It’s just so finger–lickin’ good.

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DINING GUIDE

St. Declan's Well 3131 Walnut St (212) 883–0965

Don't Miss: Getting drunk west of the Schuykill Skip: Fish & Chips

$$$$$

New Campus Pub Lacks Depth There’s more beer here and we miss Ajia Review and photos by Madeleine Wattenbarger St. Declan’s Well, the newly opened Irish bar next to World Café on Walnut Street, has no pretensions. It offers exactly what you’d expect from a new Irish bar in University City posturing only as a new Irish bar in Philadelphia: a fairly predictable drink selection, Celtic–inspired décor and a menu heavy on fried food.

Towards the beginning of happy hour, which runs from 5 to 7 p.m. on Fridays, customers occupied only a few of the brightly–lit dining room tables and about a dozen pa-

trons crowded around the bar. The waiters provided attentive service. The ambience is more bar–of–your– suburban–Applebee’s than rustic pub: oil paintings of sheep, cows and crumbling stone line the walls, and the soundtrack consists of former Top 40 hits.

St. Declan’s food is similarly drab. The food is greasy enough to mask that it’s lackluster until a few overpriced bites—and, presumably, beers—deep. The beer–battered onion rings ($8) are

adequately crispy; the Chesapeake fries ($7) are vaguely spicy, but accompanied by a warm cheddar dip, which alleges to be infused with crab, but whose phlegmy texture is more notable. The tenderloin sandwich ($13) features pleasantly tender disks of filet mignon, but overwhelmed by a heavy white bun and accompanied only by a slice of wan provolone, the meat itself isn’t enough to carry the dish. An Irish pub should take pride in its fish and chips ($13); unfortunately, the cod’s thick breading and excess of oils detracts.

Of course, St. Declan’s is a bar first and foremost, and as such, its patrons expect to chase their over–salted sandwiches with thirst–quelling beers. But for entrees around $15, a little more excitement is in order.

Short But Swede

Philly’s only Scandinavian joint outside Ikea is a welcome guest | By Cassandra Kyriazis “I’m really jonesing for some Scandinavian food.” Probably not something you or any of your friends say—ever. And for good reason: Scandinavian food hasn’t entered the mainstream American restaurant scene that Asian, Mediterranean, Italian and Mexican food have so monopolized.

For Philadelphia, that’s where the newly opened Noord Cafe steps in. The intimate restaurant is located on the corner of 10th and Tasker streets in Eastern Philadelphia, a short walk from the Tasker–Morris Station on the Broad Street subway line. Currently the only Scandinavian– centric restaurant in town, the newly opened BYO will likely leave you wishing there were more places like it.

Aiming for quality over quantity, Noord offers a single–page menu of Scandinavian appetizers and entrees. The dessert menu lives only in the heads of its waiters, waitresses and chefs. This simplistic approach fits well with the understated ambiance of the

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Grace Church is a multi-ethnic community of rich and poor, undergrads and PhDs, blue-collars and no-collars, Americans and internationals, all united by the good message of Jesus.

restaurant: dim, romantic lighting and smaller, more intimate table settings. Chefs and servers frequently check that you’re enjoying your meal, though they stay careful not to hover.

Noord’s version of bread and butter comes in the form of toasted barley bread with a buttery garlic dip. Appetizers range from the light and easy cream of celery soup ($9) to the Smorrebrod ($19), a traditional open–faced sandwich board accompanied by house–smoked fish.

Entrees come in on the pricier side, due to the strong presence of seafood, but every dollar is worth it. The shellfish choucroute ($29) delivers succulent prawns, well– cooked clams and mussels. The seafood comes drenched in a sauce of braised cabbage, smoked sausage bacon and potatoes.

The sauce also serves as a handy complement to the leftover barley bread. In addition, the chef is happy to accommodate vegetarians; he prepares the pan chicken breast ($22) with a wild mushroom and pearl barley risotto sans the chicken. The result is a rich and creamy risotto that compensates for the absence of meat.

For dessert, Noord executes apple streudel ($9) with a rare precision that makes the classic dessert feel new and taste sweeter.

Likewise, the bread pudding is so fluffy and chocolatey that comparing it to eating a chocolate cloud only feels a little bit silly.

Overall, Noord brings creative yet simple Scandinavian food to Philadelphia—we never knew what we were missing.

Noord

1046 Tasker Street (267) 909–9704

Don't Miss: Cinnamon chocolate chip bread pudding

Skip: Nothing $$$$$

DINING GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE

A Little Bit of Nonna’s All I Need

Little Nonna's

Grandma’s kitchen packs a tasty punch | By Emily Marcus | Photos by Sarah Tse Inside Little Nonna’s I found a dimly lit dining room with photos and antiques hanging on its walls, as if in a grandmother’s kitchen. While Nonna's interior is slightly cramped, the restaurant has a spacious 40–seat outdoor patio to make up for it, with a clothesline of hanging laundry that makes diners feel at home.

The menu mimics an Italian grandmother’s cuisine, too.

There’s a wide array of traditional appetizers, all of which have modern twists. The garlic bread ($4) has a DIY component: toasted bread comes with roasted garlic cloves, which diners must spread onto the bread themselves. While the roasted garlic provides a mellow sweetness, it’s missing the bite that traditional garlic bread should have. The grilled little gem Caesar ($10) missed the mark with a dressing that was overwhelm-

ingly lemony. However, some of the other reinvented classics, like the crispy eggplant parmigiana ($12) and the B+V+P (beef, veal and pork) meatballs ($11) stuffed with fontina cheese, were spot on. The eggplant parmigiana, made with Japanese egg-

plant and Thai basil, highlighted the range of textures possible in eggplant, while the sparing use of marinara let the eggplant’s flavor come through.

The entrees were similarly well done. The cavatelli nero ($12) with calamari, blistered

baby tomatoes, broccoli rabe, pickled fresno chile and mint was bright and flavorful. The potato gnocchi ($13), while simple, was light and fluffy.

And the swordfish in the grilled swordfish oreganata ($22) was surprisingly delicate and paired well with the strong flavors of the cauliflower picata and its rich lemon butter sauce.

The desserts don’t disappoint, either. The spumoni ($10) has an interesting combination of cherry, pistachio and chocolate ice creams and is topped with juicy roasted bing cherries. The heirloom tomato–basil water ice ($6), though more apt to be a pal-

1234 Locust St @littlenonnas (215) 546–2100

Don't Miss: Grilled Swordfish Oreganata Skip: Grilled Little Gem Caesar

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ate cleanser than a sweet tooth satisfier, works surprisingly well, with the creaminess of the basil ice rounding out the acidity of the tomato.

While 13th Street is lined with quality restaurants, Little Nonna’s is certainly worth its own trip downtown.

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DINING GUIDE

Clawing to the Top Maine hits the Mid-Atlantic

By Nina Wolpow | Photos by Sarah Tse Girls who grow up in Boston don’t take lobster lightly. Give me a soggy lobster roll and I’ll give you a glare that might make you swear off seafood— but give me a cup of clam chowder crafted by a New Yorker and I’ll more likely laugh in your face. Unless your name is Luke’s Lobster, to whom I say, “You can drive your NY license plates into my MA driveway anytime, just make sure they’re attached to your food truck.”

The Philadelphia outpost of Luke’s Lobster has taken no adjustment period in acclimating to its South 17th Street location. Five months into operation, the downstairs space

Bonte Wafflerie abdicated late last spring is back in full swing, prepping shellfish–packed rolls and platters five days a week.

The small chain has been building Manhattan celebrity since Maine–born Luke Holden opened an East Village location in 2009. I arrived in Rittenhouse early, anticipating a crowd. There wasn’t one. There should have been.

The restaurant’s got chowder every day and a rotating soup special, both of which are made with Luke’s catch (nothing else makes it into his kitchens). After grabbing two Maine Blueberry sodas ($2 each) from the fridge, we sampled Monday’s

lobster bisque and went back for a cup of New England clam ($8). On recommendation from a friend who interned with Luke’s last summer, we picked the “Taste of Maine,” ($20) which comes with three half–rolls—shrimp, crab and lobster—the sodas, your choice of Cape Cod chips and a pickle.

We added crab claws and a side of coleslaw for kicks.

Philly doesn’t kill it with seafood. Stephen Starr opened Route 6 a few years back, and while the buzz was heavy then, the restaurant seems to have lost its oomph and joined the ranks of Starr’s other kitschy enterprises since. Oyster House on Sansom is rumored to have a decent happy hour and Doc Magrogan’s, though it tries, kind of sucks. Once upon a time, Bookbinders served leg-

endary snapper soup. Then bankruptcy boarded up that boss.

Everything about Luke’s fills that void. A roll’s excellence is determined by temperature; the shellfish should be cold— like it’s been pulled from its habitat and doused in mayonnaise onboard a Boston Whaler—unaffected by the warmth of a toasted, buttered bun.

Crab, shrimp, no matter—pull off this balance and you make mouths water. Luke’s employees do so agilely.

The other stipulation is freshness. Deliveries arrive in Rittenhouse Tuesdays and Thursdays. You’re not getting seaside–shack–service, but a Quito native and I couldn’t tell, chances are you won’t either.

Dear Luke: you'll kill me for saying it, but in the end it

all came down to the soup. A lot of people are freaked out by clam chowder—it’s white and creamy and, while I’d wear it like perfume, it sometimes smells like lowtide. But eating Luke’s chowder is like gliding down a well–groomed bunny slope on an otherwise tricky mountain—not enough clams to make you squirm, just enough potatoes to keep you calm and a healthy dose of dairy in an unassuming base.

Luke's Lobster 130 S. 17th St @LukesLobsterPHL (215) 564–1415

Don't Miss: Clam Chowder Skip: Crab Roll $$$$$

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DINING GUIDE

Pie from the Big Guy Marc Vetri moves from prix fixe to pizzeria

By Paul DiNapoli | Photos by Sarah Tse Pizzeria Vetri, the newest venture from highly–acclaimed chef and Philadelphia native Marc Vetri, occupies a small, prime location in the trendy Art Museum District. The hostess seated us at the communal pizza bar where we could feel the heat of the oven as the deft pizzaioli made our pizzas right in front of us. The restaurant has a varied alcohol selection, distinguishing it from more traditional pizzerias. A large collection of beers can be ordered by the bottle or from the tap, and if wine tickles your fancy, you can order red or white by the glass.

Though the atmosphere was warm and inviting, when I looked at the menu, I felt a tinge of disappointment.

The menu is compact, with

fewer than fifteen total savory end to the meal.

If you’re looking for a dinner choices, including pizza parlor, artisan pizzas, calzones and highbrow dinner salads. We ordered Pizzeria Vetri is the place for the Salsiccia pizza ($16): you. But if you’d rather pay cheese and tomato sauce, less for the same pizza payoff, topped with sausage and skip the pricier pies and find fennel. The pizzas were small, a more down–to–earth pizza barely larger than a personal joint. For the name, Pizzeria pizza, carved into six slices. Vetri is worth one visit, After we bit in, we found but on a student’s budget ourselves with little to write it certainly doesn’t merit a home about. The fennel was second. very sparse, and the pizza tasted essentially like any other sausage pizza. It wasn’t bad by any stretch of the PIZZERIA VETRI imagination, but it certainly 1939 Callowhill Street did not merit the price or live @PizzeriaVetri up to man behind the dough. (215) 600–2629 Although dinner itself was Don't Miss: Fried Pizza Dough a bit of a letdown, dessert Skip: Margherita Pizza turned out to be a high point. The fried pizza dough $$$$$ ($4), dusted with citrus sugar was a light, sweet and slightly

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It’s All In-de-freshness

Indian trades buffet for gourmet in Center City | By Ryan Zahalka | Photos by Naomi Shavin Inside Indeblue, an expensively stocked bar runs seamlessly into its dining room, rich with heavy purples accented by bright bronze fixtures and sculptures. A large, intricately carved floor-to-ceiling floral sun bloom motif dominating the back wall was the only tell of IndeBlue’s Indian roots.

Hardly five minutes after we were seated, a smiling waiter brought us a trio of cute, teacup–sized soup “shots,” courtesy of the chef. The first two, chicken-mushroom soup followed by corn chowder with cilantro pesto, weren’t so much tasted as they were gulped down, so we slowed down enough to enjoy the simple but well–balanced flavors of the third soup, a lentil and coconut milk mulligatawny.

The chef ’s sound execution of a soup whose soul is simplicity quieted my worries that IndeBlue might follow the missteps of other high–class Indian restaurants doomed by their insistence on overcomplication.

By the time our appetizers arrived, the Friday evening dinner crowd had filled every seat in the house. My pan– seared scallops ($12) came neck–deep in a curried coconut milk rasam sauce. The slightly sweet, delicate flesh of the scallops paired well with the smooth but spicy rasam.

My friend’s Drums of Heaven ($8) were arranged into a beautiful tripod, sprinkled lightly with blue cheese. The chicken wings' batter gave the skin crunch, but stayed light enough to avoid suffocating the aromatic garlic, tomato and chili marinade. An occasional crumb of blue cheese delivered tang to mellow the chili’s heat.

After our plates were cleared and the table wiped down, we were served our entrees. A friend and I shared the thali

sampler platter with chiken tikka masala ($17), lamb rogan josh ($14), chana masala ($8), yogurt raita ($3) and mango chutney ($3). While similar in name to what you’d find at a $12 Indian buffet, each component of the platter was elevated by the use of quality ingredients and a masterful control over the blended spices. Fresh cumin, turmeric and cardamom complimented the strong, almost gamey flavor of the tender lamb (a flavor only pleasant in high–quality

lamb). Even the simple yogurt raita was elevated to gourmet by fresh mint and milk.

Because of the large portions and a desire to leave room for dessert, we tried to get some doggy bags. In an Oscar–worthy performance, our waiter's shoulders slumped as he woefully shook his head, right before bursting into laughter at our crest–fallen faces and whisking away our plates. He returned with our leftovers (and some extra complimentary raita and chutney) neatly

packaged in take out bags.

He also brought us our dessert, a warm fig blondie ($9) topped with a generous scoop of house–made fig ice cream. I was expecting the heavy sweetness of preserves, but got a slightly flowery taste of fresh fig instead.

With impeccable service, a keen eye for aesthetics and a commitment to fresh ingredients and simple balance, IndeBlue is well equipped to

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Go Brit or Go Home

DINING GUIDE

An across-the-pond outpost satisfies across the Schuylkill | By David Ney | Photos by Sarah Tse We walked into the lowlit Victoria Freehouse and heard the British host call over to us, “Sit anywhere the fuck you’d like.” We knew the Brits weren’t famous for their food—apparently not their grace either.

“Here, take a sheet. Wednesday night is our Quizzo Night.” All the restaurant–goers were preparing to play a little trivia while downing beers and eating the pub fare. We sat down and the waitress took our order before the game began.

The Freehouse sports beers and draughts almost exclusively from England and Scotland. We started our meal with a sampling

of the pub snacks. The Curried cheese chips (read: fries) were covered in melted cheddar and then doused with madras curry sauce ($7).

The Devils on Horseback ($5) were good enough to scare

Paul Revere off of his horse.

These cavalrymen were juicy dates stuffed with ricotta cheese wrapped in cinnamon sugar bacon. They’re crazy good, but you only get four.

After a quick food–coma re-

covery, we tackled the Guinness burger ($13) that impressed with the bang of a redcoat rifle. The burger was toasted to a crunch on the outside, juicy on the inside and coated with a spicy, tangy topping that had me reconsidering every burger I’d ever eaten. The British–style chicken tikka masala ($15) was suprisingly classic, with perfectly cooked jasmine rice served over tender and saucy chicken in keeping with the traditional dish.

Victoria Freehouse has a low– key, mellow atmosphere. A nice restaurant to take someone on a second date: you know, noth-

The Victoria freehouse 10 S. Front St. @TVFHPhilly (215) 543–6059

Don't Miss: Devils on Horse-

back

Skip: Bangers and Mash ing serious, but cool enough to impress. You’ll leave feeling full, but you will have paid for each bite. Thankfully, the ingredients are fresh, the menu is original and the British know how to keep the mood light with games and a good music. This is an old school British pub with a new school menu.

Too Dry for a Rye Guy

It’s hard to screw up sliced bread—here’s a place that does | By Alex Sternlicht “People love RyBread because of the character of the space, the character of the employees and the story,” RyBread founder and owner, Ryan Pollock says with a grin.

With a menu etched in neat chalk letters on an oversized

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blackboard and a Nantucket– esque patio in the middle of Philadelphia, the space is characteristically Instagram–able. I want to #nofilter and share RyBread with the world. I’m ready to love my food as much as I love the motif pillows lining the

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Korean and Japanese Food Truck

Open Monday-Friday 11:00am-7:30pm 38th St. between Walnut and Sansom

2 2 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E O C T O B E R 2 3 , 2 01 3

indoor seating area.

Pollock dreamed of crafting buildings, not sandwiches. After losing his job at an architecture firm in Washington, D.C., he decided to take what he calls an “unemployment opportunity.” Pollock and his girlfriend, RyBread co–owner Stephanie, traveled across the country visiting more than 20 American cities and old pals.

Pollock and Stephanie’s background in design is evident in the carefully curated cafe decor. Mounted in neat rows of glossy wooden frames, black and white photos of Pollock and Stephanie’s journey across America line the cafe walls. And their impressions of the locales they visited are encapsulated in the menu—each dish bearing a city’s name.

The first sandwich I tried was the San Fran ($6.75) a panini with prosciutto, mozzarella, roasted roma potatoes and pesto on sourdough bread. After unwrapping the sandwich I was underwhelmed. The prosciutto tasted like my grandmother’s

classic Yom Kippur corned beef. Thanks, but I wasn’t trying to atone for my sins mid– lunch.

On an employee’s recommendation, I decided to try the Austin salad ($7.95) next, with romaine lettuce, chicken, avocado, corn, tortilla strips, salsa and sour cream. Despite the promises of Tex–Mex fusion, this is the Mexican–ish salad we’ve all had before. The chicken was much too dry, and I’m fairly certain the salsa was Tostitos brand. There is absolutely no comparison between Rybread’s Austin and Chipotle.

Skip the former. Stay on campus.

Hoping that another sandwich would be tastier, I bit into the Denver ($6.75), a chicken salad sandwich with walnuts, grapes and greens, served on multi–grain bread. I’ve never been to Denver, but if I were to correlate the city with the sandwich, I’d imagine it to be soggy, stuffed with overcooked chicken salad, bathed in mayonnaise and scattered with

rybread

2319 Fairmount Ave @rybreadcafe (215) 769-0603

Don't Miss: The cupcake Skip: Everything else $$$$$ random grapes. Maybe this is what Denver is like—if so, that sucks. What I wanted was a tasty chicken salad, and what I got was edible mediocrity.

I managed to muster some excitement for my dessert, a vanilla cupcake with cream cheese frosting ($3). Cherishing the cupcake’s perfectly moist like– Betty–Crocker’s–wet–dream vanilla cake, I walk out of RyBread and down Fairmount Avenue. With the Art Museum on the horizon, I am certain that American cities are not filled with overcooked chicken and bland Mexican salads.

That’s just RyBread.

DINING GUIDE

Hype Machine

Celeb chef duo sets the Italian bar high — and jumps over it | By Isa Oliveres | Photos by Sarah Tse Hype: extravagant or intensive publicity or promotion.

When it was announced that Peter Serpico’s first solo–venture would be opening up in Philadelphia and backed

by Stephen Starr, that’s exactly what they got: hype.

The pairing of one of the masterminds behind Momofuku with Philly’s most renowned restauranteur got the town talking, wondering what would come out of such a match. The result is nothing short of spectacular. Serpico delivers Modern American fare with an Asian undercurrent, innovatively conceptualized and flawlessly executed.

Serpico’s dining room sets the stage for your dining experience. The wooden tables and dark walls feel familiar and subdued, but the non– stop action in the expansive open kitchen that domi-

nates the back of the room, where you’ll always find Peter Serpico himself, lets you know this is not your typical small–plate American restaurant. Take the raw diver scallops, covered in a tangy buttermilk sauce dotted with poppy seeds, white soy and a bright green chili paste ($14). On paper, the components seemed intriguing but disjointed—on a plate, the flavors melded together seamlessly.

Texture and temperature battled it out deliciously in the egg custard with caviar, served in a tiny cast iron pot, piping hot and topped with a crispy potato crust ($25).

Cope’s corn ravioli ($15) was a Mexican–chorizo–infused ode to the Pennsylvania Dutch dried sweet corn, a nod to the chef ’s new city and his culinary approach. But in the modern dining room of this

modern restaurant, no dish had received more hype than the duck leg ($13). Would it live up? Deep fried and halved, served on a Martin’s potato roll over pickled cucumbers with hoisin sauce, a dollop of Sriracha–style sauce on the side and a tiny bowl of pickled veggies for those who want more bite, the duck leg stole the show. Whether you call it a hoagie or a bahn mi, Serpico’s inventive yet unpretentious style reaches new heights when deep–frying duck.

The final test, though, was dessert. Where many restaurants fall flat after the entrée, Serpico reasserts its creativity with a small but thoughtful dessert menu (all $8). Instead of a cheese plate you’ll find goat cheese sorbet over shortbread cookie crumbles with slivers of Asian pear, a dish to save room for. The ser-

vice was attentive, the servers knowledgeable, the cocktails strong and the portions generous.

While normally ones to think for ourselves, Serpico proved it can be good to believe the hype.

serpico

604 South St. (215) 925-3001

Don't Miss: The Deep Fried

Duck Leg Skip: The wine, grab a masterfuly crafted cocktail instead

$$$$$

Experience a traditional, Swedish Christmas Julbord at IKEA South Philadelphia!

Friday, December 13 Two seatings: 5–6:30pm, 7–8:30pm

3408 Sansom Street

Open daily for lunch, dinner & late night snacks

Like us on Facebook for special updates or check out www.newdecktavern.com

9

$

99

per person Kids $2.49

Regular price $12.99 per person, Kids $4.99 © Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2012

11am-1am

IKEA FAMILY price

Visit IKEA-USA.com/philadelphia for more details.

Seating is limited. Purchase your tickets ahead of time!

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DINING GUIDE

DINING GUIDE

Noord | Shellfish Choucroute

Serpico | Goat Cheese Sorbet Fitler Dining Room | New Brunswick Oysters

Tiffin | Chicken Tikka Masala

Serpico | Raw Diver Scallops The Victoria Freehouse | Guinness Burger Pizzeria Vetri | Salsiccia Pizza

Rybread | Pumpkin Scone 2 4 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E O C T O B E R 2 3 , 2 01 3

Serpico | Hand-torn Pasta

The Corner Foodery | Roasted Turkey Sandwich

Kermit's Bake Shoppe | Assorted Baked Goods O C T O B E R 2 3 , 2 01 3 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E 2 5