Spring 2015 Dining Guide

April 1, 2015 34st.com

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spring 2015 dining guide DINING GUIDE

C O C K TA I L S & C R Ê P E S

Reviews

Alexandra Sternlicht, Editor–in–Chief Marley Coyne, Managing Editor Ariela Osuna, Digital Director Ling Zhou, Design Editor Byrne Fahey, Design Editor Corey Fader, Photo Editor

4 Crow and Pitcher 6 Gerard 7 Hippot Shabu Shabu

Galit Krifcher, Assistant Design Holly Li, Assistant Design Natasha Doherty, Food and Drink Ryan Zahalka, Food and Drink

8 Lo Spiedo

N AU G H T Y & D E L I C I O U S

9 Bardot 10 Le Cheri, Balkan

COVER PHOTO: Corey Fader From Bonchon

11 Buena Onda, Barn

Contributors:

15 V Street 16 Bon Chon

www.creperie-beaumonde.com

FOR A GOOD TIME CALL 215-592-0656

TUESDAY – FRIDAY: NOON – 11PM SATURDAY 10AM – 11PM SUNDAY 10AM – 10PM

TUESDAY–THURSDAY 7:30–1AM FRIDAY & SATURDAY 7:00–2AM SUNDAY 7:30–1AM

17 Boxers, Ranstead Room CABARET HOURS

CREPERIE HOURS

EXTREMELY COOL & TOTALLY HOT 6th & BAINBRIDGE STREETS, PHILADELPHIA

Conor Cook, Margot Weiss, Alyssa Berlin, Casey Quackenbush, Randi Kramer, Adam Hersh, Mark Paraskevas, Orly Greenberg, Ciara Stein, Rosa Escandon, Ana Geoana, Melanie Lowenstein, Melissa Curley, Amanda Shulman, Julia Liebergall, Sarah Sauron Tse

19 Food Porn

www.34st.com

21 Thai Singha 22 William Street Common

125 South 40th Street Philadelphia, PA 19104 (215) 921-9580 store

Contacting 34th Street Magazine: If you have questions, comments, complaints or letters to the editor, email Alexandra Sternlicht, Editor–in–Chief, at sternlicht@34st.com. You can also call us at (215) 898-6585. To place an ad, call (215) 898-6581.

23 Twisted Tail 24 Juniper Commons

"Like, if you're spiritual and into prayer, I'm into you." ©2015 34th Street Magazine, The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc. No part may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express, written consent of the editors (but I bet we will give you the a-okay.) All rights reserved. 34th Street Magazine is published by The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc., 4015 Walnut St., Philadelphia, Pa., 19104, every Thursday.

Brunch

Steak and Eggs Two eggs any style served with a 14 oz. NY strip steak, a side of home fries toast. 12.99 Breakfast Burrito Grande A flour tortilla stuffed with eggs, Chihuahua cheese, black beans, pico de gallo, and chorizo, with more cheese and our tomatillo sauce. with sides of sour with creamour andpepperberry our Steak and Eggstopped Two eggs any style served with a 14 oz.

NYServed strip steak seasoned home guacamole. rub and a made side of home fries.7.99 Your choice of toast. 12.99 Burger Benedict Our famous sirloin burger served on top of a toasted brioche roll with ham and a poached egg and smothered in a jalapeno hollandaise sauce. Served with a side of home fries. 8.99

Breakfast Burrito A flour tortilla stuffed with eggs, pico de gallo, Challah FrenchGrande Toast Sweet Challah Bread, powdered sugar. Chihuahua Served with cheese, Vermont black maplebeans, syrup. 6.99 Toast cheese Hot, sweet bread stuffed dark rum bananas and and Banana chorizo,Stuffed toppedFrench with more andChallah our tomatillo sauce.with Served withcaramelized sides of sour cream and our sugar and a side of Vermont maple syrup. 8.99 homepowdered made guacamole.

7.99

Signature Omelets 6.99

All omelets served with your choice of toast and a side of home fries Brighton bacon and cheddar Burger Benedict Our famous burger of a –toasted brioche roll with ham and a Copa – mild green chilies &sirloin Monterey jackserved on top Remo – spinach provolone cheese poached egg and smothered in a jalapeno hollandaiseSan sauce.

Served withand a side of home fries. 8.99 Monte Carlo – mushrooms and cheddar Yucatan – fried onions, jalapenos, and Monterey Cannes – bacon and bleu cheese jack cheese

Or Create your own Omelet!

Signature Omelets 6.99

$3 MimoM saaske y home&frour Bloody M arys ies All omelets served with your choice of toast and a side of home fries 11am - S1ppanish for m

Brunch Drink Menu

www.jakessandwichboard.com 2

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99¢!

Poinsettia A twist on the classic mimosa, Champagne, Cointreau Liquor, and Cranberry Copa – mild green chilies andof Champagne, Victory Brighton – bacon and cheddar Monkey Mimosa A delicious mixture Golden Monkey, and Orange Juice.

Monterey cheese Passion Mimosa Fruitjack Mimosa Cointreau Liquor, and Copa’s signature passion fruit Punch Monkey AChampagne, delicious mixture of Champagne, Victory Golden Monkey, and Remo spinach provolone Whipped Wake Up Call Start Your Day off right with 8 oz.San of coffee served–with Pinnadeand Whipped Cream Orange Juice.

Putonions, that monkey back on your back.

Vodka, Bailey’s Irish Cream, andjalapenos, Topped with Whipped Cream.

Yucatan – fried Monte Carlo mushrooms cheddar Peppery Bloody Mary those who like their Bloody Mary’s extra spicy, we–substitute Southernand Comfort and Monterey jackFor cheese Pepper instead of vodka with our special Bloody Mary mix.

Poinsettia A twist on the classic mimosa, Champagne, Cointreau Liquor, and Cranberry.

Cannes – than bacon and bleu cheese Twisted Mojitos Try one of our famous Mojitos mixed something other the traditional Rum for a surprisingly delicious twist... Jack Daniels Honey or Carolina’s Sweet Tea Vodka

Passion Fruit Mimosa Champagne, Cointreau Liquor, and Copa’s signature passion Fruit Brunch served Saturday and 11am-3pm | 40th and Spruce | copabanana.com OrSunday Create your own…

Punch, makes for a tasty mimosa.

Choose a cheese and 1 ingredient 6.99

Whipped WakeProvolone, Up Call Start Your Day offBlue rightcheese, with 8 oz. of coffee served or with PinChoose from: Monterey Jack, Cheddar, American Swiss

DINING GUIDE

A FLIGHTLESS BIRD Crow and the Pitcher has yet to take off.

After seeing a photo of Crow and the Pitcher’s decadent funnel cake French toast on Instagram, we were excited to finally try out one of Philly’s more recent additions to the food scene. The Rittenhouse eatery met us with a cozy atmosphere and a charming rustic decor. As we browsed the menu, it became clear that Crow and the Pitcher prides itself on its creative and extensive drink options. The bar scene was already hopping by 5:30 pm on a Friday. The young eclectic crowd enjoying their drinks added to the restaurant’s welcoming environment.

After bitching over the lack of a complimentary bread basket, we ordered several appetizers. We started with a roasted garlic soup—poured tableside by our waitress over a thin slice of crispy prosciutto ($7). The soup was pleasantly creamy, but also a tad too rich for such a generous portion. The sunken prosciutto was the star of the dish, but we had to fish it out because there was no way we were finishing all that soup.

Next, we sampled the white bean dip ($7), which was served with torn pieces of toasted pita, an assortment of olives and small cucumber slices. The pita was truly torn up—even more torn up than you were after Zayn left One Direction. The dip had a pleasant consistency but a forgettable flavor. Suffice it to say, #byefelicia.

After a very loooong wait, we received our entrees: the Bordelaise burger with herbed fries ($15), pan seared scallops with mixed vegetables ($23) and a NY strip steak with brussels sprouts and mac n’ cheese ($24). The burger was the highlight and its toppings—cheddar cheese, caramelized onions, forest mushrooms, and sauce Bordelaise—are unique to Crow and the Pitcher. The overcooked steak and its lukewarm temperature overshadowed the satisfying flavor and savory sauce. The mac n’ cheese, while visually appealing, was also a disappointment. Its bland flavor and runny consistency contrasted with our expectations of this classic comfort food.

The brussels sprouts could have been on Highbrow’s Meh List. Although perfectly cooked, the scallops looked and tasted like they had just been fished from ocean. The delicious mixed vegetables in a creamy polenta weren’t enough to save the salty sea creatures.

We next indulged in a cheese course, hoping for a turnaround. One of Crow and the Pitcher’s special attributes is its in–house cheesemonger—a conniseur for all things cheese.

Earlier in the meal, this friendly fellow surprised us with a goat and cow cheese from Piedmont, Italy paired with a sweet blackberry shrub on crisp slices of baguette. We knew that Crow and Pitcher was famous for its specialty cheese selection, and after our quick sampling, it was clear how much

effort the kitchen puts into this course.

The cheesemonger was our saving grace; he once again prepared us three more delicious cheeses and spreads ($17). Crow and the Pitcher ages some of their cheeses in house, and the cheesemonger will thoroughly (and humorously) explain the selection of cheeses, their origins and their aging processes. If you didn’t know that cheese could be sexy, ask him how Roquefort was discovered.

Surfeited by our previous courses, we decided to order only one of the three desserts on the menu. We chose the cinnamon and sugar beignets, presented with a small smear of blackberry shrub ($10). We regretted this decision immediately. The small portion of blackberry shrub couldn’t salvage the hard, bland balls masquerading as donuts.

Although the food didn’t blow us away,

Crow and the Pitcher excels as a bar. What makes them stand out is their attention to fostering a unique bar culture in a food–obsessed city. With live music on Sundays, late kitchen hours on Fridays and Saturdays and a playful drink selection, Crow and the Pitcher is great place to meet and socialize before or after dinner.

CONOR COOK, OLI GURLEY AND GENNY LIEBES

CROW AND THE PITCHER DON'T MISS: The 267 S 19th St, cheeses (267) 687-2608 SKIP: Dinner crowandthepitcher.com $$$$$

Sushi • Ramen • Sake Bar

33rd & Chestnut Philadelphia, PA 19104 (267) 233.7488

HOURS Mon - Fri : 11:30am - 10:00pm Sat : 5:00pm - 10:00pm Sun : 5:00pm - 9:00pm

www.cozaraphilly.com

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DINING GUIDE

EAT IN, TAKE OUT, & FAST DELIVERY

EAT IN, TAKE OUT, & FAST DELIVERY

HAND-TOSSED, STONE FIRED PIZZAS ARE JUST THE BEGINNING.

HAND-TOSSED, STONE FIRED PIZZAS ARE JUST THE BEGINNING.

EAT IN, TAKE OUT, & FAST DELIVERY

HAND-TOSSED, STONE FIRED PIZZAS ARE JUST THE BEGINNING.

Y

ORDER ONLINE Use coupon code PENN10 to receive 10% off your first online order!

S 40th Street ED, 125 STONE FIRED PIZZAS (at Walnut, across from Fresh Grocer) ORDER ONLINE (267) 292-2255 ST THE BEGINNING. ORDER ONLINE SUN-THURS 11AM - 10PM | FRI & SAT 11AM - 3AM

Usecoupon coupon code PENN10 Use code PENN10 receive toto receive 10%10% off off your first online order! your first online order!

S 40th Street 125 S125 40th Street (at Walnut, across from Fresh Grocer)

at Walnut, across from Fresh Grocer)

SUN-THURS 11AM - 10PM | FRI & SAT 11AM - 3AM

SUN-THURS 11AM - 10PM | FRI & SAT 11AM - 3AM 4

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(267) 292-2255

(267) 292-22

DINING GUIDE

LOVIN' GIRARD AIN'T HARD Fill up at Fishtown's anti-SABS eatery

Girard is the funky new luncheon place in Fishtown.The espresso with milk ($4)—their unique blend designed especially for caffeine addicts—was quickly fetched for me upon my arrival. They also brought me a cup of the peach tea ($3), which had a daintily bitter bite.

For foodies, they offer a menu to die for: there’s a hearty brasserie burger (with bacon!) ($17), the classic eggs benedict ($14), French toast gateau ($14), vegetable tagine ($16) and quinoa breakfast owl ($10) . They also give meat–lovers a run for their money with the “Roast of the Day” (prices vary), like the saucy ribeye au jus served on Saturdays, and venison osso bucco on Sundays.

I first tried the pistachio– butter and banana sandwich ($8). The bread was crisp on the outside, and yet the inside brought me back to my childhood: warm, gooey banana

mellowed by tones of pistachio reminded me of when my dad made banana porridge on Saturday.

But on the basic level, this dish is perfect for mornings when you have five minutes before your 10am class: banana + toast = meal. (Of course, you won't have time to come here for that.)

My second dish was the crispy Lyonnaise potato ($6)— rich and creamy cheese in a bowl of potato goodness. Next came the avocado toast ($8), a hearty mash of avocado over warm toast, accompanied by delightful trimmings of mashed peas and goat cheese.

Though the food and service is great, you have to be pretty adventurous to go to Girard. With the 25 minute SEPTA ride (aka $20 Uber for Saturday brunch), Girard might as well be in another galaxy. But you can come here and be 1000% sure you won’t see anyone from Penn.

300 E Girard Ave NATASHA DOHERTY

Girard 300 Girard Ave (267) 457-2486

DON’T MISS: Pistachio–but- SKIP: The Uber ride, and ter and banana sandwich challenge yourself with a $$$$$ SEPTA adventure. ($8)

NEW MEAL SWIPE CONVERSION POLICY

#

flexibility

We’ve got a new policy in place that lets you swap your extra swipes for Dining Dollar$.

Lost Meal Swipes Are No Longer.

Satisfy your cravings whenever and wherever they strike.

New Meal Swipe Conversion Policy

Bonus Bites

BYOB Weekend Special

Sign up for next year's dining plan now and swap some of this semester's meal swipes for Dining Dollar$.

Enjoy Your Favorite Bottle of Wine When Dining in Our Restaurant

Convert 10–50 unused swipes into Dining Dollar$ between April 1st and April 30th.*

(Thursdays through Sundays)

• Everyone must be 21 years old or over with a valid government issued ID to consume alcohol • Minimum of $10.00 per person when dining in

For KTV Room • Minimum 10 people or $150 minimum food

These Dining Dollar$ are yours to use by the end of the Spring 2015 semester.

• We reserve the right to hold your alcohol outside of the room at our bar

3549 Chestnut Street | (215) 387-8808 | sankeenoodlehouse.com

It doesn't stop there – the Meal Swipe Conversion Policy will continue each semester, going into full effect for the 2015 – 2016 academic year.

These Dining Dollar$ will roll over from the Fall to Spring semester.

Price Freeze

*The converted value of each meal swipe is $4.75

Take advantage of 2014-15 pricing by signing up for a dining plan before prices go up June 1st.

CONVERT YOUR SWIPES

>

www.upenn.edu/dining

< W E D N E S D AY, A P R I L 1 , 2 01 5 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E

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DINING GUIDE

HUNGRY HUNGRY HIPPOT Try the pig penis. Tell us how it goes.

It is very tempting to call this my Hippot Review Review but I’ll refrain. “Hippot” should’ve tipped me off to this being a hot pot restaurant, but unfortunately I went to Chinatown completely ignorant of what I was jumping into.

Because if I had known, I probably would’ve looked up how to order at a hot pot restaurant without looking like a total idiot. So my first warning about Hippot Shabu Shabu (which I will heretofore affectionately referred to as HipShab) is that the waitresses, while very nice and almost certainly well intentioned, don’t speak awesome English. You’re pretty much on your own as far as questions like, “How does this work?”, “Is any of this vegetarian?” or “Does pig penis actually mean pig penis?”

It does, kids. It does.

The first thing you do is order your broth. Simple enough. My

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roommate and I got the half and half soup combo ($19.95), with “herbal pork” broth in one and “vegetable” broth in the other.

The soups were then placed in the center of the table on a hot plate and left to boil for eternity (or until we left, not sure). The next step is to order your fixings.

The menu consists of pages of vegetables, meats, fish, noodles, dumplings and “balls” (but like, fish balls or shrimp balls), all of which you can add to give your soup your own personal flair.

While its tempting to order all of the things, pretty much every addition is $4–$8 extra, so unless you’re fucking Mark Zuckerberg (or fucking Mark Zuckerberg), you’ll probably only want to order only a few.

We got shrimp dumplings ($3.95), crab balls ($3.95), fried tofu sheet ($3.95) and udon noodles ($3.95). We also got a complimentary plate of veg-

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etables that has some cabbage, mushrooms, a piece of corn and an egg on it.

The shrimp dumplings were good but fishy. The crab balls were really good, and the fried tofu sheet is incredible. They’re papery thin pieces of fried tofu that you put in your broth for four seconds. Then they emerge as little heavenly sheets of flavor.

The udon noodles were pretty standard udon noodles.

This is where I should probably mention, for those of you who are as ill–informed as I was, that hot pot means you cook everything yourself, which makes HipShab more of an experience–restaurant than anything else. It’s like going to a fondue place or a hibachi restaurant. The food is good, and there’s a bar, which is cool if you’re 21 or have an ID that says you are, but really it’s kind of expensive for what it is and the

service is definitely lacking.

So you’re paying for the experience.

It would be a fun first date for a gastronomically adventurous couple, or just a group of people who are looking for an activity to go along with their dinner, and maybe want to try a bit of pig penis.

MIKAELA GILBERT-LURIE

HIPPOT SHABU SHABU

1002 Arch Street (215) 928-8838 www.hippotpa.com

DON'T MISS: Crab balls and fried tofu sheets

SKIP: Pricey alcoholic

beverages

$$$$$

DINING GUIDE

SPIT, ROAST, REPEAT

Marc Vetri's newest restaurant brings us back to our primal meat–on–a–stick roots.

Lo Spiedo (Italian for “the spit”), refers to the long metal skewers Marc Vetri’s newest restaurant uses to prepare Italian–meets–Southern barbeque.

But it could just as well refer to the drool that pooled in my mouth when I first smelled the haunches of meat roasting in the 6–foot rotisserie.

Located in the Navy Yard, Lo Spiedo is a 15–minute (read: $20) cab ride from campus. If you don’t know how SEPTA works, now is the time to learn. As our waiter, John explained, “To have to travel, the food has to be sort of exceptional, so we have that down pat, I think.”

When the grilled chicken wings ($7) arrived, we knew he was right. Massaged with dry oregano, paprika, cayenne, black pepper, mustard powder and brown sugar, these juicy wings will have you nibbling at the bone. Don’t be afraid to get a little saucy with the Gorgonzola dip—Lo Spiedo is the kind of place where you can eat with your fingers.

Even on a packed Saturday evening, John served our first course in less than five minutes. Lo Spiedo specializes in wood–fired cuisine, so skip the beef tartare ($8); the accompanying grilled focaccia only emphasized its lack of flavor. Equally as disappointing was the mac and cheese ($8), which I had to eat muffin style: top only. The breadcrumbs on the surface added a fun crunch to the ridged–elbow pasta, but the rest was more watery than creamy. The spit–roasted vegetable medley ($12) will make you consider becoming a vegetarian, but only until the entrées.

Between courses, my date and I admired the décor of the two–floor, former Navy Guard house. High ceilings and well– spaced tables spare you from any need of earplugs for good conversation. Mosaic floors and high windows with a view of the river give off an upscale, Mediterranean vibe.

The food is also true to Los

($19). Cooked only with olive oil and lemon, this dish is a refreshing break from all the

Spiedo’s southern influences.

I have close to no southern soul, but ah, those carrots ($5). Cooked in a tangy BBQ sauce and coated with Lo Spiedo’s homemade ranch, the carrots were just as wet as a Bobby Flay dream. Conversely, the signature brisket ($25) was too dry and too smoky. If the tentacles don’t freak you out too much, opt for the roasted octopus instead

other heavy southern flavors.

Bathed in mayo, the octopus roll “New England Style” ($15) is just as good.

By far, the most sexual non–sexual experience of the night was the cast iron apple pie ($10). Secret ingredient?

“We use Vodka in the pie dough in place of water,” says Chef Scott Calhoun, “which allows for a crispier flakier crust.” Want to actually feel the alcohol? Calhoun suggests Penn students come for the bar, “featuring house–made ginger beer, tonic water and amazing cocktails.”

All in all, Lo Spiedo is nei-

ther cheap nor convenient, but at least you’ve got somewhere delicious to pregame a concert or a Flyers game that’s within spitting distance of the Wells Fargo Center.

CASEY QUACKENBUSH

LO SPIEDO

4503 S Broad St (215) 282-3184 www.lo-spiedo.com Twitter/Instagram: @LoSpiedoPhilly

DON'T MISS: Grilled chicken wings SKIP: Brisket $$$$$

A UNIVERSITY CITY FAVORITE Best Happy Hour $6 house wines, sangria, well drinks and discounted draft beer with our specially priced Happy Hour Menu. Mon Fri from 4 - 7 PM

FarM FresH BruncH Every Saturday and Sunday from 10 AM – 2:30 PM with $4 Bloody Marys, Mimosas, Greyhounds and Sangria

3420 sansom st, philadelphia | 215-386-9224 | whitedog.com W E D N E S D AY, A P R I L 1 , 2 01 5 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E

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DINING GUIDE

LE CHERI CHERI: PHILLY'S MOST ELEGANT MARSHMELLOWS ROSA ESCANDON Le Cheri is fancy. Tucked into the back of the stately Wetherhill mansion slap in the middle of Rittenhouse square, Le Cheri shares the space with the top–notch galleries of the Philadelphia Art Alliance.

The dining room is a piece of artwork itself, with a gilded chandelier and nature–themed frescoes circling the top walls.

Though the dining room is somewhat small, the full bar and the patio seating keeps the restaurant from feeling claustrophobic.

Le Cheri recently started serving lunch, but you wouldn’t know it from the crowd. The place was essentially deserted, except for

another diner, who seemed to be a wine buyer. While getting a dinner reservation can be tricky, daytime is easy and slightly less expensive. That being said, everything on the menu is a bit overpriced. Dessert (the $9 creme brulee is an absolute must) and drinks are the best way to go for the broke college crowd trying to feel bougie.

As soon as I sat down, a host draped a napkin over my lap.

This was the fanciest I have ever felt doing anything. The wait staff was very attentive... almost too attentive. Maybe it was because I was the only one there, but they kept coming over to ask me if I wanted

an iced tea or was done eating.

The appetizers run from about $8 to15, and the waiter highly recommended the $11 petite french onion soup.

While it was a lot of money for a soup and certainly for a petite one, he assured me it was a specialty. The soup wasn’t bad, but the cheese was a comte— a very sweet comte. While the top was perfectly fired, the sweetness of the cheese mixed with an under salted soup made for a bit of an odd flavor balance.

There was no salt or pepper on the table, so I resorted to dipping the free bread (which was fabulous, by the way)

into the soup to cut the sweetness.

For the main course, I got the ravioli. It’s the cheapest entree at $19—and worth every penny. The ravioli had some French inspiration, but the filling of sweet potatoes and mushrooms had the unmistakable heartiness and grace of an Italian dish.

Much to my delight, the check came with a homemade

marshmallow. Soft and pillowy with a hint of rosewater, it was the best goddamn marshmallow I have ever LE CHERI

251 S 18th St (215) 546-7700

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DON'T MISS: Crème brûlée SKIP: Comte cheese that comes with the smancy soup

$$$$$

cihuatl c a z • • It 67St. • (215) 4 1005 h t 8 S accihuatl.com 1122 ww.phillyizt w

SPRUCESTREET STREET ••215.222.5055 37343734 SPRUCE 215.222.5055

Penn Special Show Penn ID Pay in cash $20 per person Food + Tip Included 7 Days a Week!

Bring Tequila for free magarita mix!

CRAZY FUN! * Ask us about room rentals!

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ALL ABOARD THE BALKAN EXPRESS

JULIA LIEBERGALL

If you think dining at Pho or Pattaya makes you an “adventurous eater,” you clearly haven’t been to Balkan Express. The small, unadorned restaurant right off South street serves platters from places like Serbia, Romania and Bulgaria. And they even offer prix fixe menus on special events and holidays, like Easter and Nikola Teslar’s 159th Birthday (July 10, in case you were wondering).

Neither my date nor I had any prior experience with Balkan cuisine, but Wendy Jacovic, the co–owner of the restaurant and our waitress for the night, was happy to suggest some of the chef ’s (who's also her husband, Radovan Jacovic) favorite dishes. Opening our wine with the corkscrew dangling from her necklace (it’s BYOB), Wendy explained that the small restaurant’s staff consists of just her and her husband, though they sometimes call in their two college–aged sons to help on busy nights.

We started off with two appetizers, one hot and one cold, the perfect duo for a rainy Thursday night. The hot dish was sarma ($12), a Serbian delicacy, which consists of pickled cabbage stuffed with spiced ground beef, served in a light broth sauce with a side of diced potatoes. With two rolls to an order, my date and I both enjoyed our own sweet and hearty serving. For our cold dish, we opted for the salad platter ($10) and chose the cucumber and dill, beet and

roasted pepper salads. Made from vegetables Wendy and Radovan grow in their home garden, the Bulgaria–inspired salads were all fresh, tangy and delicious.

Next up was the muckalica ($16), a Romanian spicy beef stew served with peppers, tomatoes, onions and a side of rice. Unlike the kind of beef stew you’d make in your Crock–Pot, the Muckalica came without a hearty sauce, but the meat proved to be just as tender and juicy. The spiciness of the dish was not as overwhelming as I expected; rather, it was just a little kick in the aftertaste.

As Wendy cleared our plates, she suggested we try the homemade baklava ($4), made fresh that day, for dessert. Served cold and layered with mixed nuts and sweet syrup, this was hands–down the best baklava I have ever tasted. If nothing else, come here for that baklava. I want it as my birthday cake.

Wendy and Radovan make you feel at home in their small shop, which is stacked with children’s books and big, family dinner–esque tables. So get adventurous and hop aboard the Balkan Express.

BALKAN EXPRESS

DINING GUIDE

BARDOT IS SO-SO BARDOT CAFE

447 Poplar St (267)639-4761

RYAN ZAHALKA

Like its namesake, Bardot Cafe is undeniably sexy. The tin ceiling, odd but sensual artwork and cozy nooks lined in red satin make it an awkward place to bring your sister. But it’s perfect for letting a girl or guy know that yes, this is a date date.

The food though was less straightforward. The rabbit crepe ($12) was good, but also confusing. The crepe was warm, rich and spicy, similar in taste and texture to a Moroccan phyllo dough meat pie.

But the small salad on the side seemed like a totally separate dish. The bitter greens were a burden. And the caramelized

DON'T MISS: Duck Cassoulet SKIP: Chicken Liver Mousse $$$ grapes and mushrooms were just weird. Maybe the chef was going for some poetic interpretation of a rabbit and its food side by side, but honestly, a dollop of vanilla ice cream would’ve been less out of place.

Our other appetizer was also a hit and miss. The chicken liver mousse ($10) on warm, soft brioche was creamy and slightly sweet, with a little added crunch from the crushed pistachios. The side of pickled carrot shreds had an odd texture, so I ignored them.

Unfortunately that meant there wasn’t any acidity to relieve all that richness, so the dish came off as super heavy.

Our anchor dish, the duck cassoulet ($20) was by far our favorite. A hodgepodge of tender duck, kale, French sausage and haricot beans, all in a mustard cream sauce, made the cassoulet hearty and thoroughly enjoyable. For $20, the serving size was a bit on the small side, even though it was listed on the menu under the optimistically labeled “Grandes” list.

When I first heard about Bardot, I was hoping for an experience that would transport me to one of the innumerable cafes of France. While Bardot definitely has the brooding sexiness down pat, the food just hasn’t caught up yet.

2237 Grays Ferry Ave. (215) 545-1255

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DON'T MISS: The baklava SKIP: The grilled meat platter

(unless you think you can handle it)

$$$$$

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DINING GUIDE

BUENA ONDA: GOOD VIBES AND BETTER TACOS HAD BY ALL

Jose Garces' new taco shop brings a ray of Baja Mexico to the not–always–sunny Philadelphia.

Buena Onda, a fast casual taco spot, is a breath of fresh air from the more upscale restaurants that make up the Jose Garces Group portfolio. Along with the clientele of young professionals, older couples and students, we waited patiently in line to place our orders of

updated fish tacos and Mexican favorites like nachos and quesadillas.

A smiling waiter handed us our K38 Pale Ale Beer ($4.50), brewed specially for the new joint. Minutes later our fresh fruit margaritas arrived (Baja Margarita and Frozen Prickly Pear, each $9).

Next: the food. The battered fried mahi mahi fish taco ($3.50), Buena Onda’s centerpiece, had some of the freshest fish I’ve tasted in the Philadelphia area. Battered in vodka and rice flour instead of beer, the fried fish didn’t disintegrate as I munched my way through it.

The tequila lime–glazed version ($3.50) of these fish tacos also did a spot–on job

highlighting the delicate flavors of the fish. Both tacos were enhanced by the chipotle remoulade, a smoky, mayo based sauce that complimented the mahi mahi.

Under “classic tacos” made with corn tortillas instead of flour, the pollo (chicken) taco ($3) became the surprise of the night, starring buttery soft braised chicken covered in a slightly sweet tomato–based

glaze, a sort of Mexican barbeque sauce. The house–made hot sauce placed on each table let us control the spiciness of our taco selections.

With its delicious and various tacos, Jose Garces’ new restaurant exposes us to his exotic Latino background.

Buena Onda is the golden taco to freeedom.

MARGOT WEISS

BUENA ONDA

1901 Callowhill St. (215) 302-3530

from Ice Cream and Yogurt to Gourmet Chocolates and Cakes!

DON'T MISS: Tequila Lime Mahi Mahi Fish Taco ($3.50)

WE DELIVER:

SKIP: The diet, and go for the battered and fried stuff

find us on

BOOZED UP IN THE BAR(N)

$

This dive bar is perfect for meeting Clark Park locals and never seeing another Penn student, ever.

1315 Walnut Street | 215-988-9992 |

@phillyscoopdeville

CREATIVE • BALANCED • SIMPLE 1608 SOUTH STREET • PHILADELPHIA, PA 215-790-0330 • ENTREEBYOB.COM 1 0 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E W E D N E S D AY, A P R I L 1 , 2 01 5

The name “bar(n)” conjures up images of rustic wooden boards, hay and country music.

That’s not what Baltimore Avenue’s newest bar has to offer.

Instead of “authentic” saddles and stirrups, you’ll find a jukebox, pool table and artfully beat up furniture. It’s a city dive bar with a farmland name.

According to the owners, the moniker was chosen to complement their other venture— The Farmacy, nicknamed ‘The Farm.’ The building has come a long way since November 2014 when the owners took on the extensive project of converting the burnt out remnants of the New Third World Lounge. Even so, there are still more changes to come in the next few months. Most notably, the sign outside, which was painted by co–owner Ross Scofield, will be replaced by an artist painted one. Earlier this year, the original sign became the subject of a popular Reddit thread titled “Terribly–named

bar gets horrible sign.”

Despite the rough start and improvised signage, it’s easy to appreciate Bar(n)’s considerable list of draft, bottled and canned beers, with roughly half of them brewed in Pennsylvania. The current cocktail list (all cocktails are $13) is wintery—while maybe not technically seasonal, the drinks certainly suit the current weather. The warm rum punch reminded me of apple cider with a little kick. It’s not the type of drink to turn up with, but is perfect for a mellow night. There is a growing collection of board games at the bar, and I suggest pairing the warm rum punch with Scrabble. Meanwhile, the root beer ‘float’ is much more of an Operation or Pictionary kind of drink. It has a milky smokiness to it, which is perfect for soothing the throat after ordering the habanero margarita.

The margarita’s pepper–infused tequila awakens all my senses.

The drink tastes healthy, as though you are on day one of your alcoholic juice cleanse. All infused liquors and simple syrups are made in–house, as proven by the apothecary bottles behind the bar. The Bar(n) will begin working on its spring cocktail list over the next month, so look out for the upcoming cocktail tasting event.

They're also introducing a predominantly vegan food menu.

Overall, the bar is a clusterfuck of Clark Park locals, in the best possible way. The owners can be seen chatting with the bartenders and the customers, or playing pool at the back. It’s a modern day, dive bar version of Cheers.

CIARA STEIN

BAR(N)

4901 Catharine St. Philadelphia, PA

DON'T MISS: There’s a Goth

Dance Party every 3rd Sunday — chances are that will get you miles out of your social bubble.

SKIP: Habenero margarita ($13)

DINING GUIDE

we all have our cravings.

LUNCH • DINNER • LATE NITE 4034 WALNUT ST • WISHBONEPHILLY.COM W E D N E S D AY, A P R I L 1 , 2 01 5 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E 1 1

DINING GUIDE

DINING GUIDE

UNIVERSITY SQUARE FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF RETAILERS, VISIT

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UCNET.COM/UNIVERSITYSQUARE

SHOPPING

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American Apparel 3661 Walnut St. Ann Taylor Loft 133 S. 36th St. AT&T Mobility 3741 Walnut St. Bluemercury 3603 Walnut St. Computer Connection 3601 Walnut St. CVS 3401 Walnut St. 3925 Walnut St. Eastern Mountain Sports 3401 Chestnut St. Eyeglass Encounters 4002 Chestnut St. The Gap 3401 Walnut St. Hello World 3610 Sansom St. House of Our Own 3920 Spruce St. Last Word Bookstore 220 S. 40th St. Modern Eye 3419 Walnut St. Natural Shoe 226 S. 40th St. Penn Book Center 130 S. 34th St. Penn Bookstore (Barnes & Noble) 3601 Walnut St. Philadelphia Runner 3621 Walnut St.

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SHOPPING, DINING, AND SERVICES AT PENN Shop, dine, and meet in University Square.

This destination district includes over 100 businesses, cultural and recreational venues, and public spaces in and around Penn’s campus, along the tree-lined blocks of Chestnut, Walnut, and Spruce Streets between 30th and 40th Streets.

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Piper Boutique 140 S. 34th St. The Rave Theater 4012 Walnut St. TMobile 3441 Chestnut St. United By Blue 3421 Walnut St. Urban Outfitters 110 S. 36th St. Verizon Wireless 3631 Walnut St.

DINING

Auntie Anne’s 3405 Walnut St. Avril 50 3406 Sansom St. Baby Blues BBQ 3402 Sansom St. Beijing Restaurant 3714 Spruce St. Ben and Jerry’s 218 S. 40th St. Blarney Stone 3929 Sansom St. BRYSI, Inc. 233 S. 33rd St. Bobby’s Burger Palace 3925 Walnut St. Capogiro Gelato Artisans 3925 Walnut St. Cavanaugh’s Tavern 119 S. 39th St. Chattime 3608 Chestnut St. Chipotle Mexican Grill 3925 Walnut St. City Tap House 3925 Walnut St.

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Cosi 140 S. 36th St. Distrito 3945 Chestnut St. Doc Magrogan’s Oyster House 3432 Sansom St. Dunkin Donuts 3437 Walnut St. Fat Ham 3131 Walnut St. Federal Donuts 3428 Sansom St. Fresh Grocer 4001 Walnut St. Gia Pronto 3716 Spruce St. Greek Lady 222 S. 40th St. Harvest Seasonal Grill & Wine Bar 200 S. 40th St. Hip City Veg 214 S. 40th St. HubBub Coffee 3736 Spruce St. Jimmy Johns 3925 Walnut St. Kiwi Yogurt 3606 Chestnut St. Mad Mex 3401 Walnut St. Mediterranean Café 3409 Walnut St. Metropolitan Bakery 4013 Walnut St. New Deck Tavern 3408 Sansom St. Nom Nom Ramen 3401 Walnut St.

Old Nelson Food Company 129 S. 30th St. Philly Pretzel Factory/Philly is Nuts!

3734 Spruce St. Pizza Rustica 3602 Chestnut St. Picnic 3131 Walnut St. POD Restaurant 3636 Sansom St. Qdoba 230 S. 40th St. Quiznos 3401 Walnut St. Saladworks 3728 Spruce St. Sang Kee Noodle House 3549 Chestnut St. Saxbys Coffee 4000 Locust St. Smokey Joes 210 S. 40th St. St. Declans Well 3131 Walnut St. Starbucks 3401 Walnut St. 3421 Chestnut St. Sweetgreen 3925 Walnut St Taco Bell 3401 Walnut St. Tortas Frontera 3602 Locust Walk Wawa 3604 Chestnut St. 3744 Spruce St.

White Dog Café 3420 Sansom St.

SERVICES

Adolf Biecker Studio 138 S. 34th St. Bank of America 3925 Walnut St. Bonded Cleaners 3724 Spruce St. Campus Hair, Skin & Nail Salon 3730 Spruce St. Campus Copy Center 3907 Walnut St. Citizens Bank 134 S. 34th St. Inn at Penn 3600 Sansom St. Jean Madeline Aveda Institute 3943 Chestnut St. Joseph Anthony Hair Salon 3743 Walnut St. PNC Bank 200 S. 40th St. Saturn Club 3426 Sansom St. Sheraton University City Hotel 3549 Chestnut St. TD Bank 3735 Walnut St. The Princeton Review 3451 Chestnut St. UPS Store 3720 Spruce St. Wells Fargo Bank 3431 Chestnut St.

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DINING GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE

BONCHON

1020 Cherry St (267) 639-6686 @BonChon

ch

DON'T MISS: The twice-

fried chicken (10 piece for $11.95) SKIP: The salmon avocado ball ($9.95)

$$$$$

WE'VE GOT A HARD-ON FOR BONCHON If only we could eat twice–fried chicken twice.

I’ve always believed that gargantuan buckets of fried chicken might be a little excessive.

But if you hand me a bucket brimming with Bonchon’s twice–fried Korean fried chicken wings, it probably wouldn’t be enough. Nestled on a side street in Chinatown, Bonchon, a franchised Korean fried chicken shop with locations all over the place, at first, seems out of place. Its sleek and modern appearance stands out from half lit neon OPEN signs and pealing plaster walls. It feels like a cross between a discotheque and a sports bar, with bumping music, a backlit top shelf bar and an absurd amount of massive flat screen TVs, and by absurd I mean almost ten. The bar is at the center, and on a Thursday at 8:30pm the restaurant was buzzing with a young after work crowd, fingers sticky with precious wing sauce and mouths stinging from its spicy punch.

The Korean fried chicken—twice fried to ensure the crispiest skin—is the main attraction but isn’t the only star.

We kicked off our meal with the strawberry soju ($5), a light pink drink made from freshly blended strawberries and the traditional Korean spirit. It also kind of tasted like bubblegum, and while it’s definitely got a sweet flavor that can only be tolerated for so long, it makes for a solid break from the spicier dishes of the meal.

The mini bulgogi sliders ($10.95) are the burgers that put all of those horrible dry sliders you’ve ever had to shame. The bulgogi is sliced and formed into patties to order. Topped with a pickle, a spoonful of slaw that’s got an amazing sweet heat and sitting on a nicely toasted bun, these are a strong way to get the meal started and will force you to exercise some self–control as they have the capacity to steal coveted stomach space.

And now we have to talk about the chicken.

Go for the wings (10 pcs, $11.95) and order half sweet and half hot, and you’ll receive some sweet pieces coated in a soy garlic sauce and some slathered in a red chili pepper glaze. The wings are nothing short of perfect—crisp, hefty with meat, just the right amount of sauce, tender—and eating in an alternating pattern of sweet, hot, sweet, repeat ensures that your mouth will have a break from the fiery punch the hot ones deliver.

Get the kimchi coleslaw ($2.95) to aid in cooling you down. Its fermented flavor is milder in this slaw form, so even if you’re not usually a kimchi fan definitely give this one a go. It’s refreshing, clean and crunchy.

The bibimbob (bulgogi, $13.95) is a piping hot bowl of what should become your new go–to comfort food. Rice piled plentifully with shaved bulgogi slices, shitakes, zucchini, carrots, sesame seeds and a plump runny egg totally puts Tampopo’s to shame.

The friendly waitstaff will eagerly encourage you to try the salmon avocado ball ($9.95).

Avocado, crabmeat, tobiko and tempura crumbs are mixed with mayo, formed into a ball, topped with strips of salmon and doused in spicy mayo and umagi sauce. I was skeptical.

It’s not offensive, but not something I’ll go for again, just a little too mushy with too much going on.

If you want to finish your meal on a sweeter note, opt for the exotic bomba. A trio of sorbets coated in a shell of white chocolate, it won’t change your life, but if you have to satisfy your sweet tooth it’s the way to go.

Bonchon is fun and the chicken (and more) is stellar. They’re looking to open two more locations in Philly, and we can only hope one finds its way to University City.

AMANDA SHULMAN

La Fontana Della Citta 215.875.9990

Experience a Touch of Italy At the Best BYOB In Philly!

Seats 180 People 5 Lunches, 7 Dinners, 7 days a week Excellent for Family and Group Meetings Contact Management, they are happy to meet your needs!

Authentic Italian Cuisine at Reasonable Prices

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DINING GUIDE

A DIFFERENT KIND OF R&R AT THE RANSTEAD ROOM The Ranstead Room lies behind a dark door marked “RR”. Since this was my first time at a speakeasy, I wasn’t sure what to expect. It wasn’t quite the elusive entryway I had imagined, but the atmosphere still maintained an air of exclusivity and intrigue.

The décor strives to be romantic with everything from flickering candle light to secluded booths. Paintings of naked women in various poses line the walls—in a tasteful, not pornographic display. The bar’s attempt to recreate the libidinal aspects associated with speakeasies is not overwrought; it’s sophisticated and mysterious.

The cocktail list seemed a little daunting considering the fact that we aren’t the most sophisticated drinkers (#smokes). But John, our bartender, was more than helpful.

The menu is updated seasonally, but the bartenders know many more drinks and are happy to make something creative if you select “Bartender’s Choice” (all cocktails are $13). He quizzed us on what tastes we usually enjoy: I said sweet, and my date went for fruity. For me, he made what he called a Bulldog Cooler; it was tall and gingery but was tempered by pineapple juice and simple sugar. For my date, he made a Strumble, which he described as “an adult snow cone.” The Strumble was the clear winner of

Steven Starr has a sensual side, and you’ll find it at this pricey speakeasy–style bar.

our first round, filled to the brim with pellet ice cubes, tequila and fresh strawberries—strong but delicious, reminding us of summer.

To keep ourselves from getting too tipsy, we ordered a dessert plate ($8) and chocolate mezcal popcorn ($3). The Ranstead Room shares a kitchen with El Rey, the Steven Starr restaurant it neighbors. There was a small menu of snack foods, but very few people were eating. For the next drink I stayed on menu and chose the Siesta, which consists of blanco tequila, Campari, and grapefruit.

My date asked John to make his favorite drink, which he warned us would be “particularly boozy.” We went for it anyway. John was clearly an old pro and seamlessly made the two drinks at once. His favorite was what he called the American Trilogy, his interpretation of an old fashioned. The drink was definitely strong, but it gave us a glimpse into why some people have such an appreciation for dark liquors.

All in all, The Ranstead Room was an enjoyable experience. The bartenders were friendly and skilled, the atmosphere was understated and romantic, and the drinks were delicious. It was pricey, but for the cocktail–lovers out there, it’s worth the splurge.

RANDI KRAMER

Better in every respect.

Proudly serving Penn since 1991.

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THE RANSTEAD ROOM 2013 Ranstead St. @theransteadroom

DON'T MISS: Sitting at the bar. More face time with the bartender means more creative drinks.

SKIP: The sandwiches, this is not the time or place to chow down on a hearty meal.

$$$$$

BOXERS, NOT BRIEFS

Where you'll find plenty of boys, biceps and cheap drinks

It’s very important not to think too hard about Boxers. To be sure, the self–proclaimed gay sports bar raises a lot of difficult questions. Is a gay sports bar an unnecessary act of self–segregation of the LGBT community? Is it exploitative for a bar to dress its waiters in nothing but clingy basketball shorts? Is it wrong to bill a place as a sports bar if none of its nine TVs are actually showing a sports game?

Set those thorny questions aside, though, and Boxers can be a really fun time. The beer selection is ample, ranging from Yuengling and Coors to hipper, hoppier stuff like Lagunitas and Yards. The cocktails are strong and often discounted. The bartender mixed me up a sweet, sharp drink with pear vodka, St. Germain, Rose’s lime juice and soda that would have passed muster at Charlie Was a Sinner, but even the basic Tito’s vodka and coke (which was only $5 when I went) was smooth and strong enough to give a good buzz. The music was a reliable mix of ‘80s hits and crowd–pleasing pop. Oh, and the servers are the sort of men who look very, very good with nothing but shorts on, so those looking to do some male gazing won’t be disappointed.

It’s not clear whether this will be a successful formula. On a Tuesday night at 8, the bar wasn’t bustling, but the groups of friends meeting for drinks and the gay volleyball team stopping in after practice all seemed to be having a good time. The bartender assured me that the place fills up for major sporting events, like March Madness (which is presumably shown on the TVs, displacing the Golden Girls reruns and reality shows they were playing when I visited). In addition, the theme nights they throw probably create more of a party atmosphere — the advertised “Gearheads and Glamboys” night sounds memorable, to say the least. When the bar starts serving food next week, it could become more of a destination. For now, Boxer’s BOXERS PHL 1330 Walnut St seems like more like one stop (215) 735-2977 on a night out in the Gayborhood. It's a place to grab a few drinks, sing along to the cheesy DON'T MISS: Tito's Vodka tunes and try not to stare too and Coke for the basic buzz hard at the bartender’s biceps SKIP: Staring (for too long) as he shakes your cocktail. Just $$$$$ don’t expect to see your team playing.

ADAM HERSH

DINING GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE (Photo: Adam Hersh)

(Photo: Alyssa Berl

Bardot| Chicken Liver Mousse Boxers| Pear vodka, St. Germain, Rose's lime juice, soda

Bardot| Duck Cassoulet Girard| Pistachio-Butter and Banana Sandwich

Girard| Foie Gras Torchon and Brioche Toasts 1 8 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E W E D N E S D AY, A P R I L 1 , 2 01 5

Bardot| Rabbit Crepe

V Street| C

DINING GUIDE

lin)

(Photo: Melissa Curley)

Hippot Shabu Shabu| Crab Balls

Cauliflower Shwarma

Lo Spiedo| Spit-roasted Vegetables

Juniper Commons| French Onion Soup

(Photo: Sarah Tse)

Buena Onda| Nachos

William Street Common| Grilled Snackster Duo (Photo: Rosa Escandon)

Bon Chon| Bibimbop

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DINING GUIDE

SINGHA–ING ITS PRAISES

Thai Singha House lets you pair great thai food with shitty wine, all in the comfort of University City.

Penn’s campus has been mourning the loss of Saigon as a non-carding BYO option since the raid during last year’s Fling. Hungry students in search of a more authentic drunken noodle experience have been flocking in cabs and Ubers to downtown eateries. Forget all that, because the newly relocated Thai Singha House on 39th and Chestnut is a game changer.

About a year ago, Thai Singha House moved across the street from the perennially underrated Boston Market to 39th and Chestnut about a year ago. While the change in location may be a wash in terms of convenience, the owner sold his liquor license to finance it, which sets the restaurant apart from nemesis Pattaya, as a BYO spot.

The new building has an authentic

aesthetic too, with large windows and Thai decorations all around.

We tried three appetizers: the chicken satay ($5.95), spring rolls ($3.50) and the “Chef ’s ‘Crazy’ Coconut Soup” ($4.95). The chicken was tender and juicy and the peanut sauce that accompanied it was top–notch.

The spring rolls were crunchy and would be a solid starter option for the vegetarian/vegan crowd. While these first two were more or less standard Thai appetizers, the coconut soup absolutely stole the show. A tangy broth filled with an ocean’s worth of sea critters—salmon, mussels, scallops, shrimp and calamari—was a hit around the table. There's no excuse— barring a shellfish allergy—to not start your meal at Thai Singha House with a bowl of this soupy magic. We also

tried a Thai iced tea ($2.00), and it was sweet and milky enough to earn a recommendation…as long as you don’t already have a cup of sunset blush staring you down.

The three entrees we tried were similarly great. The sauce for the shrimp pad thai ($10.95) has a tomato base, which gives its noodles a red characteristic glow and smooth sweetness, that complements the savory shrimp and slightly bitter peanut crumbles.

Thai cuisine is renowned for mixing in as many tastes as possible, as exemplified by the pad Thai. The green curry with chicken ($9.95) was equal parts standard and satisfying, and while it was missing the Banana Leaf novelty, the pineapple fried rice ($8.95) tasted just fine, and is a more than adequate vegetarian option.

Thai Singha House does the traditional stuff right at a fair price (plus the craziness of the coconut soup), and gives you that all–important BYO option. I enjoyed the food at Thai Singha House so much that I moved a club BYO to Thai Singha House. Everyone in attendance echoed my sentiments: it’s the move.

MARK PARASKEVAS

THAI SINGHA HOUSE 3906B Chestnut St (215) 382 8001

DON'T MISS: Chef's "Crazy" Coconut

Soup

SKIP: Cabbing downtown for an inferior Thai BYO experience

$$$$$

4043 Walnut Street Philadelphia, PA 19104 | 215-382-1300 | livecampusapts.com 2 0 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E W E D N E S D AY, A P R I L 1 , 2 01 5

DINING GUIDE

WILLIAM STREET COMMON: UNCOMMONLY GOOD

I’m somewhat of a foodie minority. I hate sandwiches. I hate bacon. However, the first words out of my mouth after trying the snack bacon ($7) at William Street Common were, “Holy shit, this is so good.”

The newly opened restaurant, located at 39th and Chestnut in the place of no one’s favorite bar, Drinker’s, boasts a cohesive menu, based largely around small, snack–like appetizers and hearty sandwiches.

Walking into William Street is an experience in itself. The interior features dark wood, varnished to a rich shine.

Delicate lights are strung from the ceiling and decorative plates line the walls. Your order is placed before you are seated, and there is no tipping allowed (but there is flat a 20% service charge).

Among the appetizers, the Grilled

Snackster Duo ($8) reigned supreme.

This adult take on pressed sandwiches comes with both sweet and savory options. Though you might feel more comfortable going for savory, you’d be mistaken. Don’t pass on the cashew butter and blueberry preserve snackster—a warm snack with crisp bread and oozing blueberry tartness.

For my main course, my aversion to sandwiches finally met its match in the form of the BBQ short rib sandwich ($12). It's served on thick, warm French bread and layered with a crisp slaw. The horseradish cut through the fatty, flavorful meat, balancing the flavors and allowing them to complement each other rather than overwhelm each other.

The only dish that

Food so good you'll have to go tip-less at this new campus staple.

didn’t come across clearly was the apple fritters ($5). They are slightly too dense, and the grainy caramel pudding did little to soften them. Fritters are the only dessert option, which may disappoint those diners with a raging sweet tooth—unsatisfied by the sweet pressed sandwiches.

But for all its ups and downs, William Street Common is a must–try gem, one that is well worth the “trip”(holler at me, Quad/Hill dwellers).

WILLIAM STREET COMMON 3900 Chestnut St (215) 397-4693 @WilliamStCommon

DON'T MISS: BBQ short rib sandwich ($12) SKIP: Apple fritters ($5) $$$$$

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TWIST MY TAIL A kickass meal from head to tail.

I love bread service. I usually (sometimes unfairly) judge a restaurant for the quality of its bread service. It's the reason I fell in love with Kanella, but it’s also the reason why restaurants like Olive Garden can fuck right off with their pale excuse for breadsticks. So I had no idea what to think when our eccentric waiter Anthony announced, “bread service!” and then plopped a pail of popcorn on our table.

A few furtive bites turned into a free–for–all between my friend and I, and before we knew it we were gnawing on unpopped kernels, waiting for our next pail. It was the perfect bread service. The popcorn was flavorful, lightly seasoned with thyme and truffle, but it was also insubstantial, so no matter how much we ate, our appetites remained unspoiled.

For our dinner, we each chose the 4–course meal for $39, a sort of perennial Restaurant Week deal. Our first course came from their charcoal grill. My lamb skewers were perfectly cooked and simply seasoned. The uncomplicated meat­/onion/red pepper combo was fantastic. My friend’s quail legs were similarly simple, but delicious, though we were soon cursing quail anatomy for failing to put enough meat on their skinny little legs.

DINING GUIDE

After a few more handfuls of popcorn, our second course came out. Elsewhere in this Dining Guide you’ll read grumbles about a couple restaurants’ mac and cheese, where the chief complaints were watery cheese sauce and odd noodles. My crawfish mac and cheese suffered from neither. It was just creamy enough, with generous hunks of crawfish that lent the added benefit of scaring off the wandering fork of my shellfish–averse friend. On the other hand, I was more than happy to pick away at her beef tartar, edged with Dijon and coated in the brilliant orange of a quail egg.

For our main course, we doubled down on duck and wagyu beef. The duck breast was so tender my knife slid through easily, but it was the accompanying sweet potato mash and Brussels sprouts that punted the dish to divinity. The wagyu beef was similarly tender, and while its mashed potatoes and carrots won’t win any awards for creativity, they were absolutely satisfying.

The portion size for both entrees was pleasantly large, but it made eating dessert a happy agony. The beignets were light and fluffy and delicious, but the show–stopper was the Butterscotch Pot de Creme. The caramel/coffee/ toffee custard was light but creamy, and very easy to enjoy after a heavy meal.

Now that the weather is finally bowing to

spring, it’s so much more tempting to hop on the 40 bus and make a day of exploring the Old City. While William Penn’s old neighborhood is now filled with restaurants, the Twisted Tail it a clear standout destination for your wandering feet and growling stomach.

RYAN ZAHALKA

TWISTED TAIL

509 S 2nd St (215) 588-2471 @TwistedTailPhl

DON'T MISS: Lamb skewers SKIP: Pigging out on the popcorn $$$$$

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DINING GUIDE

JUNIPER BETTER THAN COMMONS Kevin Sbraga's Juniper Commons feeds us nostalgia and comfort food.

If you don’t already know, Kevin Sbraga is a well–regarded celebrity chef. He won Top Chef, and founded Sbraga Dining, which includes Sbraga, The Fat Ham and his latest venture, the 1980s–themed Juniper Commons.

We arrived at Juniper Commons and immediately took note of the decor, which we’re guessing is supposed to embody the ‘80s theme. But we felt the restaurant had more of a modern vibe. Either way, the casual aura made us feel instantly welcome.

The meal started with two slices (more like mini loaves) of homemade zucchini–walnut bread.

With a little help from the general manager Tom, we crafted the perfect order of classy comfort food.

We started with an unreal French Onion Soup ($10), which was the perfect warm–up dish, in more ways than one. There was an impeccable

60% s av e 1 0 -

off stor

attention to detail; the onions were cooked for eight hours and the croutons were like a bite of homemade heaven.

We were excited to eat them again in the festive Caesar salad ($18). We weren’t expecting it, but we were in for dinner and a show! The Caesar salad is made at your table (hibachi– style), and comes with a side of fun facts. Did you know the Caesar salad is actually a Mexican dish? We didn’t.

If eggplant parmesan and mozzarella sticks were to have a child, it would be the crispy eggplant ($16).

This dish probably doesn’t count towards your daily vegetable serving, but that didn’t stop us from enjoying every warm, chewy bite of it.

Next up was the buttermilk fried chicken ($24). Although unexpected, the honey and sea salt combination made this dish absolutely mouthwatering. The deep fried outside

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encased the juiciest piece of chickenin Philly. If you come to Jupiter Commons and don’t order this, you’re wrong.

Tom also sent over a plate of the Beef Fat French Fries ($9). The fries were dusted in parmesan, thyme and a few other orgasmic spices. Another plus of this dish: some of the fries were large and potato wedge–y while others were smaller and crispier.

Unfortunately, the Brussels sprouts, the only vegetables on our table, were way too salty.

Looking past the confusing décor and salty Brussels sprouts, the restaurant’s high­–class comfort food made our tummies happy and our hearts sing. Thank you, Juniper Commons, for keeping it classy while letting us eat like kids again.

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