PORTUGUESE SOUL MAGAZINE by 391038

PORTUGUESE SOUL

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PORTUGUESE SOUL

PORTUGUESE SHOES

PORTUGUESE SOUL

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the editor, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other non-commercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to the editor, addressed “Attention: Portuguese Soul Permissions”, at the address paulogoncalves@mail.apiccaps.pt _

Director

President of APICCAPS

Editor-in-Chief

Paulo Gonçalves

Editor

Cláudia Pinto

Graphic Design Collaboration Illustration Special Thanks

Owner

paulogoncalves@mail.apiccaps.pt Mário Teixeira (www.manifestoworks.com) André de Atayde, Catarina Vasques Rito, Ilídia Pinto, Irina Chitas, Joana Jervell, Patrícia Gonçalves, Sónia Santos Pereira and Susana Ribeiro António Soares (www.antoniosoares.tumblr.com) AICEP Portugal Global, ANJE, ModaLisboa, Ana Paula Andrade (ANJE), Fátima Santos (AORP), Manuela Oliveira (ModaLisboa), Mónica Neto (ANJE), Paula Ascenção Laranja (Min. Economia) and Paula Parracho APICCAPS Portuguese Footwear, Components, Leather Goods Manufacturers’ Association Rua Alves Redol 372 4050-042 Porto _ Tel: +351 225 074 150 apiccaps@mail.telepac.pt _ www.apiccaps.pt www.portugueseshoes.pt | www.portuguesesoul.com www.portugueseshoestv.pt

ISBN Circulation Printed by

2182-2298 10.000 copies Empresa Diário do Porto _ The views expressed in PORTUGUESE SOUL are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the owner or its staff.

PORTUGUESE SOUL

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STORE Daily Day reflects the inner city vibrations and creativity. With this unique multi-concept store, we defy and connect your daily routines. Located in a corner in Av. dos Aliados, we stand as an immersive point in the city cultural flux. The name of this store stands also as an own brand - Daily Day Women & Men Collection.

COLLABS D A I L Y D AY x W O L F & S O N D A I L Y D AY x P O E N T E E Y E W E A R D A I L Y D AY x VA N R O H E ...

At Daily Day we like to team up with portuguese independent brands, combining new ideas and experimental points of view. These special editions, created upon both brands philosophies, value the inherent tradition and legacy of portuguese craftsmanship.

DAILY DAY

calling

Live music, launch parties, poetry and writing sessions, exhibitions, performance and installation - that´s how we blur the lines between cultural production and mainstream style.

clothes to fit your thoughts follow us

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AVENIDA DOS ALIADOS, N. 263, PORTO - PORTUGAL MONDAY to SATURDAY - 10h › 19h

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EDITORIAL ________

It was one of the best-kept secrets. Whispered about. Away from the lights. Suddenly, the rumour surfaced. Could it be true? Maybe it was exaggerated? Could it be a charm offensive? Everything was confirmed. It can’t be hidden any more. Portugal is definitely in fashion. And it’s here to stay.

After being chosen in 2017 by the World Travel Awards as the best international destination, there will be plenty of reasons to visit Portugal in

2018. You can come to watch the return of the Air Race in Porto, see Red Bull Diving in the Azores or the Lisbon Eurovision Song Festival.

In the fashion area, the Portuguese footwear industry has been taking foreign markets by storm for eight consecutive years, and in April, Condé Nast

will host its major Luxury conferencein Lisbon, which will be attended by some of the most prominent names of international fashion, such as Maria

Grazia Valli, Christian Louboutin, Philipe Plein, Felipe Oliveira Batista and Michele Norsa. The month after that, in Porto, 500 of the most renowned

specialists in the footwear sector will meet at the 20th International UITIC Congress.

Portugal is a country with a rich history and enormous talent. This was the

starting point for the creation of the magazine Portuguese Soul. Already, seven years have passed since then. The goal is to showcase a country with soul.

________ PAULO GONÇALVES 8

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08 EDITORIAL 14 MAKING OF 16 A NEW VISON 18 NUMBERS MATTER 20 AROUND THE WORLD 22 WHAT A RIDE 24 DAYLY DAY CALLING 26 10 YEARS 28 IN HER WORDS 32 FOOTWEAR CREATES 300 BRANDS 34 ON THE RISE 36 FOLLOW ME 38 FASHION WITHOUT BORDERS 40 STEP BY STEP 42 GENTLEMAN CODE 56 MIGUEL VIEIRA 60 HERITAGE 62 RISING STAR 64 GOLDEN BOY 66 SUIT & TIE 68 OLGA NORONHA 70 WHAT’S UP 84 OH HONEY 98 WE WILL ALWAYS HAVE FRANÇA 100 NO GENDER NO SEX JUST... 102 THE OFFICE 114 JEWELLERY IN LIQUID STATE 116 OUTSIDE THE BOX 118 LAST NIGHT I DREAMT ... 132 AN ENCHANTED STORY 134 WASTED RITA 138 SNEHA DIVIAS 140 AFONSO ROMANO 142 GAME ON 146 SAVAGE HILLS BALLROOM 160 THE ALLURE OF MODALISBOA 164 NEW BLOOD 166 MARIA GUEDES 168 PORTUGAL FASHION 172 WE CAN ONLY BE WHO WE ARE 190 THE ART OF PORTUGUESE JEWELLERY 192 LUÍSA ROSAS 194 SUMMER VIBE 196 THE POETRY OF PURPOSE 200 OUT OF THE BOX

CONT ENTS

PORTUGAL 203 CAFÉS WITH HISTORY 206 PARADISE RIGHT HERE 208 CLAUS PORTO 210 HOW TO BUILD A HOME 212 TAYLOR’S 214 MADEIRA 216 REASONS TO VISIT PORTUGAL 218 RECIPE

MAKING OF ________

There is a calm, serene bustle in the streets of the city. History resonates in all the nooks and crannies, old cafĂŠs, bookstores that reek of mystery, hidden gardens, serene sunsets. And the prizes just keep on coming. After 2012 and 2014, Porto once again won the trophy for Best European Destination 2017. Tourists fill its streets: with each day that goes by, Porto is becoming more and more ... fashionable! And ... after Paris, Portuguese Soul chose the city of Porto as the backdrop for another editorial. Oh Honey, through the lens of Frederico Martins and the creativity of ClĂĄudia Barros, show you the hidden secrets of the city nicknamed Invicta. If this is Portuguese soul, then this is our Port(o). Full-stop.

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AS NOVAS FRAGRÃ&#x201A;NCIAS

A NEW VISION ________

LUÍS ONOFRE

e has been the president of APICCAPS for less than nine months. He is still “testing the waters” of the sector, however, there is no shortage of projects. Luís Onofre, is one of the most prestigious Portuguese designers, remembers the past, analyses the present and plans for the future.

Luís Onofre, designer, entrepreneur, and now association leader. What is it like to live with these realities? They are realities that to a certain extent complement each other. I have been an entrepreneur for more than twenty years. In fact, I'm a third-generation entrepreneur.

What plans do you have for the presidency of APICCAPS in the area of globalisation? We have to consolidate the presence of Portuguese footwear on the main European markets. And we’re going to spare no effort in the United States. It’s our biggest priority. We also want to establish a closer relationship with the end customer.

How did you become the President of APICCAPS? It was unexpected. I took up the challenge with enthusiasm and a responsible attitude.

In the area of innovation? We want to be world leaders in the use of new technologies. We’re going to invest 50 million euros in this process.

It’s the first time that a designer has become the president of a large industrial association... In my opinion, it’s a more than valid choice, also because this sector falls within a more extended area, that of fashion.

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What about the area of qualifications? One of the biggest priorities is based on attracting a new generation of talents. We are working with secondary schools, the education sector and universities to build the future of the industry.

N U M B E R S M AT T E R ________

PORTUGUESE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY IN FIGURES

152

The number of destination countries of the Portuguese footwear. The Portuguese footwear industry currently exports over 95% of its production to 152 countries worldwide.

Millions of pairs of shoes manufactured in Portugal, in 2016. Since 2010, the production increased 33%.

Million euros. The planned investment by the footwear sector, within the Road Map for Digital Economy, FOOTure 4.0, until 2020. The footwear sector renewed its ambition to be the most modern in the world by combining its know-how with to the latest technologies.

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The percentage of growth of the Portuguese footwear companies in the first half of 2017. If it continues at this rate, by the end of the year, it will be the eighth consecutive year of growth of the Portuguese footwear industry in international markets.

38 661

The number of workers within the Portuguese footwear industry, according to data from the Ministry of Labour. Since 2010, 6,529 new jobs were created (over 20%).

1 923

Millions of euros. The highest amount of footwear exported by Portugal. 2016 was the seventh consecutive year of growth of the sector in external markets. Since 2009, sales have increased by 59%.

Photo: Frederico Martins

Charlotte Olympia Designer

C RYSTA LS - F RO M- SWA ROVSKI .CO M

AROUND THE WORLD ________

Photo: Frederico Martins Shoes: RICAP

Next year will beâ&#x20AC;Śa journey around the worldâ&#x20AC;Śfor the sexiest industry in Europe, with a record 200 footwear companies attending more than 60 promotional activities all over the world. The continuous growth of Portuguese footwear over the years is the result of a long-term globalisation strategy. In 2018, Portuguese footwear companies will invest in several external markets, such as China, Colombia, Japan, Russia and the United States. Europe will also be a priority, with a strong presence in fairs like The Gallery, Micam, Momad and Expo Riva Schuh.

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SHOES

WITH

CHARACTER

W H AT A RIDE ________

Photo: Frederico Martins Bag: Belcinto

Portuguese exports of leather goods have increased by more than 200% since 2010. At the end of 2016, they amounted to as much as 178 million euros. Quality and good taste. Tradition and know-how. These elements appear to be the main competitive foundation of the profound change that has taken place in the international perception of Portuguese fur and leather goods. As a result of this new dynamic, Portuguese exports of fur and leather products continue to grow year after year. Exports of animal skin products are growing in virtually all the subsectors, particularly in the segment of â&#x20AC;&#x153;bags and handbagsâ&#x20AC;?, which represents more than half of the sales. Spain and France are the two main markets.

PORTUGUESE SOUL

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D A I LY D AY C A L L I N G ________

Words: Cláudia Pinto Despite the rumours that the days of physical stores were numbered, the rise of e-commerce has not proven to be the end of brick-and-mortar retail. Brands and companies have, instead, taken the time to redefine and rethink their physical spaces, keeping up with the consumer’s lifestyle and enhanced demands. Following the steps of pioneers such as 10 Corso Como, Collete and L’Eclaireur, experience-focused stores have been popping up all around the main cities of the world.

n the last few years, as the ‘Made in Portugal’ label finally starts to draw the world’s attention to its in-house design and know-how, this new frontier between online and offline has started to secure its place throughout the country. Each with its one-of-a-kind behaviour and attitude, Portuguese concept stores have been pushing forward and investing in the creation of spaces meant to reinforce an emotional bond to their brand.

Striving to surprise and enrich people’s lives, this collective aspires to fulfill the valuable time its costumers share with them. Besides having their own clothing brand and other main-stay Portuguese brands on display, every month the store presents emerging talent through its Daily Day Calling platform. With over 30 artists and creatives so far, this community has been steadily increasing its ranks with more and more people who share the same tastes, interests, and lifestyle.

Front and centre on this network of mutant, dynamic new retail concepts we find Daily Day. Born in 2015 in Porto’s downtown, the physical space of its homonymous brand brings together all the ingredients we could look for in a concept store: a passionate founder, a multi-disciplinary team with the trained eye to spot a simple and timeless aesthetic, an alternative cultural agenda* and the fearless desire to experiment with new ideas. Seven Days a Week.

Located at Praça General Humberto Delgado, with a privileged view of the grand Avenida dos Aliados, the Daily Day concept store is a unique place where curiosity is always welcome. In the end, what really sets this concept store apart is its capacity to get people to cross its doors, not only for the products it carefully curates, but for their will to discover new things, listen to good music, and share experiences in a way that just can’t be replicated online.

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10 YEARS ________

PORTUGUESE SHOES CAMPAIGN Photo: Frederico Martins

ortuguese Footwear’s new promotional campaign aims to be a statement affirming a country that is filled with talent. It reinforces the connection with several other sectors of the Portuguese economy, such as clothing, jewellery and tourism – since this campaign was symbolically carried out in Madeira – and uses a younger, fresher language directed by the new wave of consumers. Alecia, Francisco Henriques, Isilda, João Lima, Maria Clara, Maria Rosa and Ricardo Gomes are the new faces of “The sexiest industry in Europe”. External promotion is the main priority of the Portuguese footwear industry, which exports over 95% of its production to 152 countries throughout the world, which is equivalent to 81 million pairs of shoes worth approximately 1.950 million euros. For that reason, precisely 10 years ago, with the support of the COMPETE Programme, APICCAPS (Portuguese

PORTUGUESE SOUL

Footwear, Components and Leather Goods Manufacturers’ Association) has launched a bold Portuguese footwear communication campaign in external markets – with the slogan “The Sexiest Industry in Europe” -, thereby seeking to gain a new positioning in the sector it represents. Grounded on the logo Portuguese Shoes, the campaign is inspired by typical Portuguese iconography. For APICCAPS, this is an opportunity to conduct an assessment of the work it has carried out. In the past decade, Portuguese footwear exports have increased by 60%, once again reaching a new historic maximum by the end of the year. During that period, the average export footwear price increased by approximately 30% and nowadays Portugal presents the second-highest average export price, among the main footwear manufacturers worldwide. The Association is currently preparing new activities for this communication campaign, which includes unprecedented investment on the American continent.

I N H ER WORDS ________

MANUELA OLIVEIRA

uring the frenzy of a Fashion Week, there are many faces that make things ‘happen’ behind the scenes, but they do not feature in the final rounds of applause. However, their contribution is crucial to the success of each edition. She has been working for ModaLisboa for 12 years, coordinating communication and everything that happens during the days where national design is showcased. She started off as an intern and today everything goes through her: journalists, interviews, descriptions of collections, front rows. At the end of each edition...she can sit back and smile with the sense of relief that comes from knowing her mission has been accomplished. Meet Manuela Oliveira: The face of communication from ModaLisboa.

Do you still remember your first day at ModaLisboa? Of course. I was very enthusiastic about the opportunity to collaborate in the organisation/production of a Fashion Week. The ModaLisboa - Lisbon Fashion Week was, and is, the fashion event par excellence in Portugal, so it was the fulfilment of a dream to be part of this team. What stood out in “your” first Modalisboa? The size and complexity of this project, which involves a multitude of professionals from various areas. From a small 8-person team, between editions, we become a team of more than 600 people. And it all happens very quickly, at breakneck speed; there are always thousands of things to do! When we come to the end of a show, we are completely exhausted, but with the happy feeling that we have accomplished our mission. What has changed in Portuguese fashion in recent years? A lot has changed, and for the better: this is a reflection of the work that several organisations have carried out for the sustained development of the Portuguese fashion industry. 26 years ago, when ModaLisboa started out, there was no fashion industry in Portugal; it was more of a textile industry, which was completely focused on

production. Since then, there has been a revolution in the sector, with the creation and emergence of modelling agencies, media agencies, fashion photographers, stylists, fashion journalists, specialised magazines, make-up artists, hair-stylists, etc. At the same time, higher education in fashion design started being offered. Today, we can proudly defend the “made in” and “designed in” Portugal labels. Our production and manufacturing, as well as the work of our designers, are of immense quality. How do you expect fashion to evolve in Portugal? The fashion industry is the world’s second most polluting industry, so the future of fashion is sustainability. It is important to be environmentally aware and produce with the lowest possible impact. It is expected that fashion brands, in general, will become increasingly sustainable. Regarding fashion in Portugal, development is particularly becoming globalised. Our market is very small and the only way for a brand to grow is through a considerable increase in exports. Among the various organisations promoting Portuguese fashion, it is important to develop long-lasting synergies and collaboration so that our collective action can be stronger and more effective. Photo: Tomás Monteiro

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AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE RUA GARRETT OEIRASPARQUE CASCAISHOPPING FACEBOOK:@ANDRE.OPTICAS

INSTAGRAM: @ANDREOPTICAS

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F O O T W E A R C R E AT E S 300 BRANDS ________

“A young, modern and forward-looking industry, which combines tradition with the latest technologies and know-how with the best design: the Portuguese footwear industry is in constant evolution”. This is how Portuguese companies have presented themselves to the international market since 2008, within the Portuguese Shoes Campaign, Designer by the future. However, this is just a variable in the equation. In the past decade, over 342 footwear brands were created in Portugal. The figures are provided by the Footwear Technology Centre of Portugal’s GAPI - Industrial Property Promotion Unit and attest to a new reality in the sector: appreciation for the collections and ‘made in Portugal’ products. The creation of new brands is a practical interpretation of a priority defined in the Strategic Plan of the Portuguese Footwear Cluster: FOOTure2020. “Apart from the image branding of the Portuguese footwear, the reality is that in this cluster, it is still diverse. Therefore, it is important to mobilise the skills that have been used to build a collective image in order to support the companies. Companies should be assisted in the development of image campaigns and personalised communication plans, contracts with advertising agencies, participation in fairs abroad, etc. They should equally be assisted with the improvement of their internal image, which is essential for their relationship with visiting buyers. In some cases, the creation of private brands will be the culmination of these actions.”

There are several advantages associated with the creation of a brand. Firstly, because it helps cross the barrier between generations and borders. Moreover, it will be able to ensure greater independence and profitable gains. After 50 years of working as private label, the Calçado Dura Factory in Felgueiras, which currently employs 115 workers and exports 80% of its production, launched the men’s footwear brand Exceed Shoe Thinkers. “Our aim is to provide maximum support to the accumulation of know-how through the decades”, revealed Agostinho Marques. Exceed Shoe Thinkers favoured the British and French markets in the first stage, with its target being the contemporary man. In this regard, it has an international development team, which includes Portuguese, English and Italian designers, stated the company’s director. On the other hand, Ferre is a luxury footwear brand by the company Ferreira & Avelar, created in 1947, which “due to strategic issues never was a commercially strong option”. The aim is “to explore the accumulated knowhow from 6 decades of existence and the positioning on the luxury market, with footwear for an audience within the 40 to 70 year old age group”, highlighted Ruben Avelar. According to the company’s director, Ferre will favour the approach to “classic and sensitive men with a taste for luxury and life itself ”, and it is estimated that the price of a pair of shoes can oscillate between 200 and 500 euros, depending on the raw material that is used. Photo: The Baron’s Cage

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ON THE RISE ________

PORTUGUESE FOOTWEAR EXPORTS Photo: Frederico Martins Shoes: Cloud

In the first half of 2017, Portugal exported 43 million pairs of shoes worth a total of 960 million euros. If these numbers are confirmed by the end of the year, this will be the eighth consecutive year of growth of the Portuguese footwear industry in international markets. It seems that, in 2017, Portuguese footwear exports will achieve a new record. Since 2009, the sales of Portuguese footwear in international markets have increased by approximately 60%, from 1.200 million euros to nearly 1.950 million by the end of last year. In the first six months of 2017, Portuguese footwear grew in almost all relevant

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markets. In the European Union, an increase of 5.2% was recorded as a result of its good performance in countries such as France (over 4%, to 202 million euros), Holland (over 6%, to 136 million euros) and Germany (over 8%, to 181 million euros). Outside Europe, the highlights were sales in the USA (an increase of over 7%, to 35 million euros), Russia (over 32%, to 13 million euros), Canada (30% growth, to 12 million euros), Angola (over 126%, to 11 million euros) and Japan (6% growth, to 11 million euros). It must be emphasised that Portuguese footwear exports nearly all of its production to 152 countries worldwide.

FOLLOW ME ________ We can’t live without technology, phones, computers and social networks any more. More and more, we are being teletransported to parallel worlds with walls, posts and followers. Social networks have already become a part of us and our daily lives. However, there are accounts in the wonderful world of Instagram that are truly inspirational and don’t need a story to be told. Every time a new image is uploaded, it is met with accolades. In our opinion, following these accounts is a must.

Raquel Strada

Josefinas

Luís Borges

Every head turns whenever she walks in. And when it’s like that, there’s no need for long, complicated introductions. She’s the Portuguese “it girl” of the moment. She covers international fashion weeks and inspires us with her front row looks. She’s the author of Blue Ginger, the blog that follows fashion industry trends. And if you still don’t know who she is...all you have to do is follow Raquel Strada on Instagram, or even better...follow in her footsteps.

We got here late, because Instagram has already filled it with likes. However, Josefinas’ page is a must for all those who love shoes and who like stories with a happy ending. And it can almost be...a Cinderella story. A childhood dream, transformed into a shoe brand. An online shop that fast became a fairy castle...or even better, a store in New York. They didn’t build the castle, but they managed to be the most expensive sabrinas (ballerina) shoes in the world. It’s a project that fills (all of us) with pride.

He amasses followers on social networks. In real life he is accumulating international campaigns. Afro Boy is one of the most influential models in the national fashion industry. A regular presence in the front row of Fashion Week of national catwalks, Luís Borges is a success story that’s worth following. If you’re not yet following him... you should. Because of his digital influence, he has already modelled for the Dolce & Gabanna campaign, with the most relevant influencers of the moment.

@raquelstrada

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@josefinasportugal/

@luisborgesoficial

AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE RUA GARRETT OEIRASPARQUE CASCAISHOPPING FACEBOOK:@ANDRE.OPTICAS

INSTAGRAM: @ANDREOPTICAS

ANDREOPTICAS.COM

FA S H I O N WITHOU T BORDERS ________

Words: André de Atayde

ashion has crossed borders, transformed itself between empires and geographical regions, survived wars, and gone down with all of them, been submerged, but always bounced back, alive and breathing. Today’s fashion used to be about moods, general influences over time and the fads of the rich and famous. Today, fashion has stopped using a watch, but it has a “tick-tock” that doesn’t let its wheels stop moving, or arrive late.

Portugal is right on point, the westernmost country of mainland European and one of the smallest European countries, but one that has no shortage of talent that spreads the country’s fame beyond its borders. In soccer, science, fashion...it is becoming more and more in vogue. 10 million people in an area of about 92,000 km². And a people like no other: resilient, with a fighting spirit, who consider adversities to be opportunities.

It camouflaged itself from everything and nothing. It manages to be a true copy of something that has already been created, and always knows how to reinvent itself. Today’s fashion is everything you want to use, all that’s needed is what you want to be.

There are several Portuguese names that have created value in the area of fashion, ranging from entrepreneurs and models to designers. They need to be known and recognised.

Sara Sampaio The little girl from Porto whose fame has spread throughout the world in just ten years, in a journey marked by beauty, sensuality and sympathy. The woman who conquered on the wings of an angel, and has been getting stronger, her place in fashion will ultimately be Olympus, the resting place of the greatest gods. Photo: Tomás Monteiro

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Felipe Oliveira Baptista The Azorean who since 2010 has been the creative head of Lacoste, the house that made the crocodile an animal adored by so many, has made solid progress in the fashion world, and today has become a national designer who is well established internationally.

José Neves A Portuguese businessman who created a unicorn. José Neves is the founder of Farfetch, the e-commerce company that sells luxury brands, with its headquarters in London, and representations in Lisbon, New York, Los Angeles, Guimarães, Porto, Shanghai and Tokyo. When the world is too small for an idea, extend the boundaries of planet Earth to the digital universe. Photo: Frederico Martins

Manuel Arnaut Few people can boast in their CVs that they replaced a princess as editor of a magazine. Manuel Arnaut can be proud of this fact, after taking over the helm of Vogue Arabia. In his career, he has worked for the Portuguese edition of the magazine, as well as for GQ and, before he took on his latest challenge, he managed the Architectural Digest Middle East. PORTUGUESE SOUL

STEP BY STEP ________

GONÇALO PEIXOTO

Words: André de Atayde

ou start off one foot in front of the other, tottering like someone who’s taking their very first steps. You use your hands to grab at anything you can hold to stop you from falling. The first steps you take without needing to hold onto someone are met with joy, cheers and a “hooray” from everyone. We walk. Alone. Like we own the world, even if we don’t necessarily feel that way. From the first baby steps to adulthood, the years fly by quickly. We live, we learn, we try our luck at doing things and fail at a few things, but succeed in many others. We do it for our survival, for our lives and the lives of others. We take a lot of baby steps again. We are alone again, but filled with the desire to go further. Every once in a while, someone learns to walk faster than everyone else. Who stands up, fixes their gaze on the road ahead and walks without fear, without any fear of falling, of failing, because they know that they must finish walking along that road. Sometimes you take a risk, you get lucky, but you will always take credit for it. Gonçalo Peixoto is one of those people. The 20-year-old youth who grew up quickly. Who went from Vila Nova de Famalicão to Porto, then to London, now he has the world in front of him.

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The little boy who absorbed his mother’s love of fashion and who, just a few months ago, showcased his creations at London Fashion Week. The invitation. It was a giant step forward - or three heel clicks – for Gonçalo Peixoto. If life follows a chronological order, Gonçalo’s has been no exception. At the age of 15, he did a technical fashion course in Guimarães. Five years later, he is in the final stages of the Fashion Design course in Porto. By the time he arrived in London, he already had eight of his own brand collections. There is always a certain provincialism in Portugal, where there is a tendency to place more value on what “comes from outside”. Gonçalo has left the country to conquer the fashion world, and his starting point was one of the world’s most important world capitals. Today his name is on everyone’s lips, both here and outside the country. His world is now where everyone wants to be. Without looking at borders. The boy Gonçalo Peixoto grew up, started walking alone without asking anyone for permission. It’s done. He has become a man and now no-one needs to hold his hand any more.

Micam85VAnitaDONNA_SoulMag_240x300.indd 1

05/12/17 14:13

GENT LEMAN ’S CODE ________ Photos: Óscar Almeida Retouching: Paulo Ferreira

Shoes: Nobrand 42 PORTUGUESE SOUL

Bag: Antรณnio PORTUGUESE SOUL 43

Shoes: Centenรกrio

Shoes: Undandy; Belt: Goro; Cosmetics: Antiga Barbearia do Bairro PORTUGUESE SOUL 45

Shoes: Exceed Shoe Thinkers

Shoes: Gino-B

Shoes: Dark Collection 48 PORTUGUESE SOUL

Bag: Ruben Rua for Rufel; Shirts: The Board PORTUGUESE SOUL 49

Cosmetics: Musgo Real

Shoes: Carlos Santos

Shoes: Ambitious; Ties: Vandoma 52 PORTUGUESE SOUL

Bag: Ruben Rua for Rufel; Socks: Pedemeia

Shoes: J. Reinaldo

MIGUEL VIEIRA ________

He has reached a landmark in his career: 30 years. Miguel Vieira is one of the most established Portuguese designers, due to the relationship he has managed to build with the industrial sector. He is an example for the youth. A story of resilience and creativity, of ups and downs, of personal and professional breakthroughs. Miguel Vieira reflects on his 30-year career in the national fashion scene. And he promises to continue to captivate his followers.

Do you still remember how you got started? After specialising in textile quality control, and having worked in a textile company for 1 year, I decided to create my own brand. I started off with the creation of a logo and carried out all the necessary steps to set up a company. I started at my parents’ house in a small workshop, and my first collections were women’s creations in knit fabric.

During these thirty years, was there ever a really, really special time? I was suddenly admitted to hospital at Ipo, where I was diagnosed with cancer. It was a very “difficult” period. During this time, I thought that I would have to spend the rest of my life in that hospital unit. To my delight, I was 100% healed... To my delight... I went on to present my collection again at ModaLisboa, something I really wanted to do, but it was also something that I thought would never happen again. It was a very emotional time, with much applause from the public...it was the best fashion show!

What remains to be done? Many opportunities arose over the years, but astronomical financial investments were needed: instead of climbing a staircase that we could climb 20 or 30 steps at once ... we always climbed, step by step, and felt proud of every step we took. How do you see the future of the Miguel Vieira brand? Creating new collections season after season; new products and captivating new audiences.

Photo: Tomás Monteiro

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www.felmini.com www.facebook.com/felmini

H E R I TA G E ________

Words: Catarina Vasques Rito Photos: Jorge Amaral

Business continues to have a generational purpose. Large brands were built with family continuity in mind, and Portugal is one of those countries that maintains this tradition. In the footwear sector, one of the most successful in the country, there are large manufacturing companies that have integration and continuation within the family in their DNA. One of these successful cases is the Zarco Factory, producer of footwear for international brands, and leader of one of the best brands in the world, Carlos Santos. This is a story built on dedication, love and the perseverance of its founder, who already has the next generation of his family working in the company structure.

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Once there was a man who, due to the circumstances of life, started working when he was still a teenager. In his time, it was normal to start working even before you started having facial hair. He set his sights on a sector that conquered his heart and learnt him the art of manufacturing shoes. More than 40 years later, he maintains the same passion for his business and the art of transforming a piece of leather into a beautiful pair of shoes. Carlos Santos always dreamed that his children would follow in his footsteps and become members of his team. This dream became a reality. His oldest son, Armando Santos, was the first one to work with his father, and although he left for a few years, he did return to the fold again.

Of the three children, two girls and a boy, his middle daughter took up a managerial role in the company. “I never imagined that I would work with my father. When I did my training in Marketing and Sales, I had other plans for my professional life. Things don’t always turn out the way we think they should: 13 years ago, I came to work at the factory built by my father and the truth is I never left again”, explains Ana Raquel Santos, manager of the company’s Sales department, the Carlos Santos brand, and the Zarco factory, with its head office at São João da Madeira. Working in a family business does not mean that your life is easy, according to Ana Raquel Santos. When she told her father that she was going to work with him, she was put to the test for years and, despite having demonstrated that she is passionate about the duties she performs, she continues to be guided by the owner, her father. “In the beginning, it was difficult and challenging. I had to prove that I could do it, and show the other company employees that I’m not a child, I’m not a daddy’s girl. I think that in almost a decade and a half I have proven all this and much more”, she confirms, without hesitating to emphasise that she always had the opportunity to give her “well-founded” opinion on the options and strategies for the good operation both of the Carlos Santos company as well as the brand with the same name. “I have to make the fact very clear that my father is available to hear my suggestions, of trying to understand what is behind certain decisions I make, and at the end of the day, my reward is reflected in the face of the man who taught me, and continues to teach me, who educated me and had the desire to create a project with a difference”, stated Ana Raquel, a woman with a confident attitude and a penetrating look. Furthermore, because “she’s a chip off the old block”, Ana Raquel developed her own idea, with her father’s support, to create a footwear brand: Ana Lusitana, which shall be on sale from next year. The collection was presented at the MICAM Fair in Milan in September. “I don’t know if it was a natural journey or not, the truth is that I ended up developing an idea and Ana Lusitana was born. It’s a brand created by us, targeted at dynamic women who like accessories, in this case shoes, with a male-inspired design. They are not men’s shoes, they are women’s shoes with a male attitude”, a product that prioritises comfort and trendiness, two elements associated with the quality of the raw materials used and the manufacturing techniques.

Carlos Santos, a simple man who is knowledgeable of his field of business, sponsored his daughter’s project and gave her the support “required for market implementation”. Years of experience have given him natural knowledge, and made him receptive to new things, not forgetting the level of reflexion of someone who has many years of “working in the sector”. “Having my children working in the business that I created with them in mind is a pleasure. I want them to have a full idea of how it works, so that when they manage all of this the company doesn’t close its doos due to a lack of know-how. I trust in the professionalism of my children, particularly Ana Raquel, because she is with me every day and she has been with me over the past few years”, states Carlos Santos, “I am aware that there are times when opinions differ, creating moments of “discussion”, but they are always resolved, because good sense always prevails!” The Zarco factory produces for different brands sold internationally and the Carlos Santos brand exports 98% of what it produces. It is on sale in Portugal at the Rosa&Teixeira shop in Lisbon, and at other points, as well as on the site. “It doesn’t make sense to produce more for the internal market, due to the actual volume of the market. I would obviously like to supply shoes to more Portuguese men, but they have not yet discovered the level of our quality, due to the stigma that exists on what is Portuguese. I know that this relationship is changing, although not at the desired pace. Our segment is in the mid-high end and luxury market. Our quality is very good. And I would like this to continue”, observes the company owner. Participation in international fairs is a constant and it is an investment that is thought down to the tiniest detail. The company has about one hundred employees, and most of them have been working there for some decades, giving us the full impression of the calibre of this man who believes that the best professionals in this area are built over time, with respect as a foundation. “A good worker at our factory has a consistent path, with training that takes as long as 10 years. It takes time to master the techniques and to get to know the rules. All this know-how is what ranks us among the best. We can’t have any results if there is no team”, this successful businessman acknowledges.

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R I S I N G S TA R ________

ALÉCIA MORAIS Photo: Frederico Martins

lécia is a flawless beauty with eyes that reflect her dreams and sparkle as she talks. At just 20 years old, the Cape Verdean model is already considered to be one of the most promising international fashion models. In 2012, she won the Cape Verde Elite Model Look competition. Since then, she has been unstoppable. Christian Dior, Tom Ford, La Perla, Louis Vuitton and Chanel are just a few brands that are already part of this young model’s portfolio. The Cape Verdean model is the new Victoria’s Secret angel and in November she participated in the Pink edition of the most popular fashion show of the industry. “I always dreamed of

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doing the Victoria’s Secret fashion show. I went to the casting and I was selected. It was amazing! When I got the news, I almost couldn’t believe it.” Currently living in New York, Alécia continues to receive unconditional support from her country and, for this reason, she won the “Somos Cabo Verde” (“We are Cape Verde”) fashion award for the third consecutive year. The future shines bright for this young model. In 2018, Alécia will be one of the seven faces of the Portuguese Shoes campaign.

GOLDEN BOY ________

KIKO HENRIQUES Words: Cláudia Pinto Photo: Frederico Martins

eciding between two passions is never an easy task. Even more so when you are young, promising and talented. Football might have been the priority before, but the fashion world clamoured louder and today the clicks of the camera are what attract Francisco’s attention. He is known as Kiko to his friends.

Wild curls and tender looks catch everyone’s eye. Afterwards, an irreverent personality makes all the difference, according to him. At just 22 years of age, his career has taken off with a bang. It all started with a competition in 2014. The end of football, but the beginning of a new world. “At one point I had to choose between the two, and it was not easy at all. I know now that I made the right decision. Fashion has brought me many good things. It has taught me a lot.” The agency - Central Models – put Kiko in the limelight, after he competed in a competition that he did not win. The first campaigns started to trickle in, little by little. Then came the national fashion weeks: “I remember my first fashion shows at Portugal Fashion and ModaLisboa, because it was the first time I had modelled on the catwalk.” His progression to the international scene did not come immediately. Kiko says that the first time he travelled to an international fashion week ... he did not model in any show. “I arrived in Milan, participated in the castings and didn’t get to model in any show. But this episode taught me a lot. In fashion, nothing is instantaneous. It just made me work harder... and the following season I walked the catwalk for Armani, Balmain and Hermès”. Today, we can say that Kiko fills the world with fragrance. In 2017, he was announced as the face and ambassador of the new Pacco Rabanne fragrance, a brand that has given him national and international exposure. “There are no words to describe how I felt when they called me and told me I had been selected. I wasn’t expecting it, because the casting was very restricted”. But ... When a model makes it to the (much) desired perfume ads... what more is there for him to do? “I think there is a great deal left for me to do. I was never interested in doing perfume. I’ve always wanted to work with great photographers and great magazines, and that’s still my goal.” In May 2017, the model was awarded the Golden Globe in Portugal for Best Male Model.

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SUIT & TIE ________

Photo: Óscar Almeida Ties: Vandoma

uit and tie. Shirt and tie. Just ties. A classic. In any part of the world. And in any male wardrobe. They are never left behind by trends: they are reinvented. In Portugal, the accessories sector is starting to gain ground. Year after year. After a decline in the exports of accessories (bowties, handkerchiefs and ties), the sector has picked up again. For Ana Sousa, from Vandoma Ties, “after a sharp drop in Neckwear exports in 2013, we have seen a slight recovery over the past years.” But what has made Portuguese ties so appealing to international buyers?

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“International clients are seeking quality above all, and then an updated and fashionable collection. Our short delivery times and the lack of minimum quantities complement the appealing offer provided by Portugal.” In any speciality fair, national ties draw attention, “either due to the alternative materials used, the quality of production, or the infinite quantity of options and combinations available”.

OLGA NORONHA ________

Words: Cláudia Pinto Photo: ModaLisboa

irst there are the jewels: sparkling, unusual, created with passion. Then there is the designer. This is the narrative of Olga Noronha’s life. The designer from Porto is preparing for her role in 2018 as curator of the Jewellery Museum of Vicenza, after one of her pieces was exhibited as a centrepiece at the museum. The gold filigree cervical collar was the piece chosen to be part of the inaugural exhibition in the biggest European museum dedicated to jewellery, a new museum situated in the northern part of Italy. “It already was a dream of mine to exhibit my pieces in a museum [out of more than 800 pieces], and I was the only Portuguese designer and also the newest kid on the block – and to top all that, I was invited by the Director of the Museum to be the new curator. I immediately said yes!” The designer gained recognition in Portugal for her irreverent approach to the use of materials. When she crossed over from the world of medicine to jewellery, she adopted the use of medical and surgical equipment to create real jewellery pieces. In addition to the designer’s jewellery collections being presented half-yearly at ModaLisboa (Lisbon Fashion Week), she wears many different hats: she is the coordinator of the advanced jewellery design course, lectures at institutions in the UK, USA and Milan, works on the development of capsule collections for some clients, and conducts academic research.

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W H AT â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S U P ________ Photos: Carmo Amorim

Shoes: JJ Heitor

Shoes: Mi-MÃ´h

Shoes: Himitsu

Bag: Maria Maleta

Shoes: Perks

Shoes: Helsar

Shoes: Relance

Shoes: Perlato

Shoes: Guava

Shoes: Pinto di Blu

Bag: Fly London

Shoes: Take a Walk

Bag: Cavalinho

Designed and Crafted in Portugal

OH HONEY ________ Photos: Frederico Martins Styling: Clรกudia Barros

Shoes: Perlato X Nuno Baltazar; Jumpsuit: Nair Xavier; Top: Carolina Machado; Hat: Ă&#x20AC;s de Espadas

Shoes: Perlato X Nuno Baltazar; Blouse and earrings: Carolina Machado; Top: LuĂs Carvalho; Shorts: Ricardo Andrez; Hat: Ă&#x20AC;s de Espadas

Shoes: LuĂs Onofre; Shirt and dress: Imauve; Jacket: Mango; Earrings: Carolina Machado

Shoes: JJ Heitor; Shirt: Ricardo Andrez; Trousers: Mango

Jacket: Mango

Shoes: Relance; Bag: Rufel; Sweater and Trousers: Ricardo Andrez; Sunglasses: Carolina Machado

Shoes: Luís Onofre; Bra: Sloggi; Trousers: Luís Carvalho

Shoes: JJ Heitor; Shirt: Ricardo Andrez; Trousers: Mango; Earrings: Carolina Machado

Shoes: Relance; Shirt: Ricardo Andrez; Skirt: Alexandra Moura

Shoes: Eureka X Luís Carvalho; Jacket and Jeans: Às de Espadas; Waist Pack: Alexandra Moura; Sunglasses: Carolina Machado

Shoes: Luís Onofre; Trousers: Luís Carvalho; Sweater: Stylist’ own

Photographer’s assistant: Pedro Sá, Diogo Oliveira and Michael Matsoukas Hair: Rui Rocha Make-up: Patrícia Lima assisted by Ana Raquel Ribeiro Model: Bárbara Maldonado “Supreme Management” Production and Retouching: Lalaland Studios Total look: Carolina Machado

W E W I L L A LWAY S H AV E F R A N Ç A ________

Words: Irina Chitas Photo: Hugo França As long as we continue to take creativity seriously. As long as being original means so much more than fitting in. As long as we can understand that buying an oversized jacket totally made in a profound, languid and cool bluish green velvet doesn’t even compare to entering a fast fashion store, we will have Sara França, the designer from Azores that is making the most elegant streetwear that we can remember. We talked to her about, well, everything. The clothes can speak for themselves.

CMY

What is your favourite quality? Perseverance.

What is the greatest love? The one that makes your eyes shine.

What is your major flaw? Stubbornness. It seems like a cliché, but I’m a typical Aries, no matter how many times someone tells me I’m wrong, I’ll keep on going until I bang my head.

Who are your heroes? I don’t have any, but if I had to have an idol, it would be Michael Jackson.

What is the piece you made that you would save from an apocalypse? Right now, a green jacket that has about three metres worth of fabric. But, without a doubt, what I would save would be my three dossiers of molds. What is happiness? It’s happy moments or states. I usually say that my dog is an example of happiness. What is peace? Maybe love. And the opposite of war and hatred.

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What do you draw the most? On my youth, definitely faces and eyes. Today are the sketches of clothes on mannequins. What makes you feel, most of all? That bound when I feel connected with something or someone. What is the ideal world? A world where money doesn’t exist. What’s the importance of a first impression? It’s very important, because I am a very observant person and I can learn a lot from a first impression.

NO GENDER , NO SEX, J U S T FA S H I O N ________

question of attitude? Personality? Or just an aesthetic choice? It’s a growing international trend. There are more and more young people opting for exclusive, unisex outfits. Imbued with this new spirit, an increasing number of companies are investing in the development of “genderless” collections. The public, particularly the youth, appreciate this.

In the footwear sector, no rules, no prejudice and total versatility are elements that identify the recentlycreated Perks, the new brand of Evereste, a Portuguese reference company with more than six decades of experience on the market. “From the ages of 27 to 45, everything is possible”, André Fernandes states. “Design is universal and it’s for everyone”.

According to the WGSN trends office, “this is a trend that’s here to stay. It’s not just a fashion thing, it’s a phenomenon of society. Its impact will be long-lasting”.

Ana and Sara Mateus are two sisters. They belong to the second generation of António Mateus, a Portuguese family business producing leather goods of excellence. António - “A Handmade Story” is the brand launched by this company which has been around for 35 years, with its head office in Benedita. “We believe in a world where people and the environment are essential” and therefore “the creation of a brand with a clean genderless - and sustainable design has always been on our minds”, Sara Mateus stated. Her sister, Ana, emphasizes that “our priority is to pay strong attention to detail in our work and to guarantee the quality for which our organisation is renowned”.

Hugo Costa is one of the Portuguese designers who has invested the most in the development of these types of collections. “I don’t think of men or women when I create. I think of clothing and footwear, the concept, the constructed image”, he adds. The outfits speak for themselves, but they have no gender. They refer to the street, to freedom and to the internalisation of human beings. The domestic industry already knows him for his streetwear creations, and the international market is now starting to sit up and take notice of the young man from S. João da Madeira. Inspired by people, devoted to his work, Hugo Costa’s journey is one of national success. Hugo Costa’s collections are already an inspiration for a new generation of talent.

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No gender. no sex. Just Fashion.

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THE OFFICE ________

Photos: Frederico Martins Styling: Nelly de Melo Gonรงalves

Shoes: Dark Collection; Suit: Versace

Shoes: Undandy; Coat: Cerruti 1881 Trousers: Dries Van Noten; Shirt and Knitwear: Lanvin

Shoes: Wolf & Son; Bag: Marti Ponti; Total look: Lanvin

Shoes: Centenรกrio; Suit: Stella McCartney; Knitwear: Lanvin

Shoes: Dark Collection; Total look: Cerruti 1881

Knitwear & Turtleneck: Versace

Shirt: Lanvin; Trousers: Coach

Shoes: Carlos Santos; Bag: Belcinto; Shirt & Turtleneck: Versace; Knitwear: Stella McCartney; Trousers: Dries Van Noten

Production: The art board Photographer’s assistant: Artem Kononenko Grooming: Yoana TG Model: William Los ‘Elite Paris’ Total look: Versace

JEWELLERY IN LIQUID STATE ________

Words: Cláudia Pinto

Jewels are a girl’s best friend – this is something that Eugénio Campos already knew. And indeed he should, having just completed the 30th year of his career as a jeweller. In 1987, he started the project that would become the brand bearing his name, which has become a benchmark of the national market. But what the designer tells us in this year of celebration is that perfume has become an important aspect of the day-to-day lives of women. Hence, two jewels in liquid state were born - the perfumes Gold Stone and Gold Rose – a tribute to 30 golden years devoted to luxury and glamour, and constantly, even daily, responding to the sector’s new trends and demands. “Thirty years is a very special date. These jewels were already part of the brand strategy, all that needed to be done was to choose the most appropriate time to present them”.

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Eugénio Campos’ experience in the industry shows how he manages to combine materials and inspiration, designing truly harmonious works of art, where beauty and luxury come together in perfect symbiosis. The desire to mark such an important date led to this unique combination setting sights on the Perfume and Cosmetics sector. Everything in this 100% Portuguese project was meticulously thought of, right down to the finest detail, with a special meaning assigned to each and every aspect. 30 years constitutes a package of excellence, and therefore the future is clear and evident for Eugénio Campos: innovation and differentiation are part of his DNA, and all his projects will always be implemented based on these two core values.

L U PA B I O L Ó G I C A ________

Photo: Carla Pires

passion for hair. This is how the story of Lupa Biológica began. In 1977, a Portuguese hairdresser decided to create a 100% nationally-produced hair cosmetics brand. And like a dream... steering the course of life, 40 years later, Lupa Biológica has become a leading brand in the world of hairstyling. Passion, vitality, creativity and innovation are the main ingredients for the brand’s success. The company develops, produces and sells exclusively national high-quality products. Operating in a constantly changing sector that is ever seeking new things, Lupa launched LUPA Styling in 2017. The new line takes inspiration behind the scenes of Fashion Weeks to create modern and avant-garde looks. Consisting of 22 distinct products, the brand uses its own laboratories to test and create looks and textures, which result in technologically advanced products. Creativity without limits tested by brand creatives that prove the efficacy and usability of the LUPA Styling products in the development of striking, inspirational looks, either backstage at fashion shows or for day-to-day street style. A perfect match between experience and the creativity of its origins...it all began with a dream.

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LAST NIGHT I DREAMT SOMEBODY LOVED ME ________

Photos: Ricardo Santos Styling: Fernando Bastos Pereira

Shoes: Ana Lusitana; Dress: LuĂs Carvalho; Bra and earrings: Topshop; Socks: Mango

Left-Dress: LuĂs Carvalho; Bras and earrings: Topshop. Right-Briefs: Nuno Baltazar

Shoes: Eureka X LuĂs Carvalho

Dress: LuĂs Carvalho; Bra and earrings: Topshop

Shoes: Harper; Dress: LuĂs Carvalho; Earrings: Topshop

Shoes: Gladz; Dress and Waistcoat: LuĂs Carvalho; Earrings: Topshop; Socks: Calzedonia

Left- Briefs: Nuno Baltazar

Right- Shoes: Josefinas; Dress: LuĂs Carvalho; Bra and earrings: Topshop

Dress: Mad But Magic; Earrings: Topshop

Bag: Maria Maleta

Shoes: Tatuaggi; Dress: LuĂs Carvalho; Vintage Body; Earrings: Topshop

Production: ‘Snowberry’ Styling Assistant: Nelson Lima Make-up: Patrícia Lima Hair: Zé Carlos Taipa with Lupa Styling Models: Ekaterina ‘Elite Lisbon’ and Francisco Faria ‘Karacter’

Briefs: Nuno Baltazar

Shoes: Guava; Dress: LuĂs Carvalho; Pants and Earrings: Topshop

AN ENCHANTED STORY ________

ANTÓNIO - A HANDMADE STORY

“We believe in a world where people and the environment are essential,” and so “creating a brand with a clean, sustainable design has always been at the back of our minds,” says Sara Mateus. Ana and Sara Mateus are two sisters, they belong to the second generation of a Portuguese family that produces leather articles of excellence, António Mateus. Antonio - “A Handmade Story” is the brand launched by this company, which has been operating for 35 years and has its head office in Benedita. Ana adds that “the priority of our work is a focus on every detail and guarantee of the quality that everyone knows our organisation for”. “We maintain a close relationship with our suppliers, taking advantage of a prime geographical location in central Portugal, “ they state. The entrepreneurs opted for “working with tanned leather, environmentally-friendly plants and accessories, which guarantee a new social awareness”.

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WASTED RITA ________

Words: Cláudia Pinto

arcasm. Provocation. Humour. Barely masked criticism. We can use many adjectives to describe the characteristics of the artist, but nothing will do as much justice to her as her own illustrations. At the age of 29 years, we do not know her well, but the letters that fill her creations are familiar to us. Her signature is thought-provoking. She uses her sense of humour as a weapon to talk about the important issues of life. “The power of full-time thinking to write about the most common things of all possible things: life and human beings, the inbetweeners, and the all-rounders”. This whole adventure started in 2012 when she created Rita Bored. After leaving college, and with an uncertain future, she soon realised that she was not interested in design studios. She created the blog, “just because, without any specific motives”. She started publishing her illustrations: the orders started flowing, sites were sharing

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her works. She started being contacted by huge brands: Converse, Cheel, Blue Q, Hurley and Goldwin. And the markets started expanding. Holland, Japan, Belgium and France are part of the range of clients, but numbers are of no interest to the artist. She received an email in 2015 that added a relevant name to her list of partners. Banksy - the unknown artist invited the Portuguese artist to join the group of creators of the Dismaland theme park (a festival of masked art at a theme park). A hard, sarcastic exhibition, a deep criticism of consumer society in our days, held in Bristol. The Bankrupt, I have no fucking idea and Diarrhea projects, as well as the Love Letters installation were displayed at the exhibition. A Portuguese name side by side with the names of Damien Hirst, Bill Barminski, Caitlin Cherry and Banksy himself.

www.lemonjelly.com

SNEHA DIVIAS ________

INTERVIEW Words: Joana Jervell

Born in Oporto and currently living in Dubai, where she established her own Atelier in 2016, architect and interior designer Sneha Divias was voted 2017 Interior Designer of the Year at CID Awards. Her intuitive elegance and detail-oriented approach are capturing the attention of the world, in projects ranging from high-end residential to commercial, offices and hospitality. She is passionate about art, travel and nature, and we could not pass up the opportunity to get to know her a bit better in this interview.

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How did Interior Design came to your life?

How do you approach every new project?

My parents emigrated from Mozambique to Portugal in 1974 and my father started his own business in real estate and property development. Growing up, I saw buildings from drawings to site while Portugal had its construction boom and I would spend my summer break between my fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s office surrounded by plans, construction details, site visits. On the other hand, my mother, born in India, is highly creative and artistic so there was a general interest for art and design. Hence the world of architecture and design was my intrinsic choice for studies.

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a fixed approach; I enter each project very freely and open-minded. I like to give a personal interpretation to the briefing I receive, but these key principles are the base for my work. The geometry of a project when space planning, creating scale and proportion is key to achieve a continuous flow. Balance comes from seamlessly integrating elements from architecture, interior, furniture to create layers that are speaking to each other in the same language. The details are the most important connectors that truly bring the substance of the project to life.

In your opinion, what are the main ingredients for a great interior?

What inspires you?

Great design is not solely about the outcome but the essence lies in the process. It is about the emotional resonance and impacts it has on its users. What matters is how design makes one feel, as well as how well it was delivered in terms of time and budget. Great design should be conceptualized to be timeless and respond to the context of the narrative.

Travelling has always been my greatest form of inspiration - buildings, people, markets, nature - there is so much to grasp from the urban and natural tracery, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wonderful visual. I keep a little sketch book with me at all times to jot down sketches and ideas whenever I see/read something interesting and sometimes itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as simple as walking in the streets and seeing an usual form/volume that inspires me.

How would you define your signature design style?

In what parts of the world can we find your projects?

Nurturing our creativity is fundamental to see the potential in spaces and coming up with solutions that are functional and of aesthetic value. I strongly feel that it is important to be a transparent and honest communicator in this job. When it comes to clients, suppliers, other consultants and third parties, transparent communication leads to fulfilling expectations and delivering the unexpected. It also comes with a strong sense of responsibility. I think the strongest aspect of my projects is the quiet elegance and understated style, where the essence lies in the details.

The Atelier has a global reach, so the idea is to export creative projects all around the world. At the moment, we are working on projects in Dubai, Muscat, Los Angeles and Nairobi.

How did it feel to be distinguished as the Interior Designer of the Year at CID Awards in 2017? I was extremely happy, humbled and overwhelmed by this recognition, as it is such a prestigious platform, and extremely talented peers were nominated. It is a celebration of the people I have worked with collaborators, suppliers, clients, consultants - and it is also a good time to celebrate the opportunities that came my way and the people from whom I have learnt from through my career.

What is your ultimate goal when it comes to your work? Are there any dream projects you would still like to accomplish? The ultimate goal is to keep working on challenging projects that push us as designers. To receive briefs that inspire us and that are somehow complex to solve. This, together with working with the right team of clients and consultants, is already a dream project, so hopefully we will keep working on many other similar projects. The Atelier is a boutique proposition that works on referrals and repeat clients rather than pitches. The focus is on building up credibility with clients, which is something that helps enormously to maintain durable relationships with them.

What can you tell us about Villa Palm Jumeirah, the winning project in the Residential category? The Palm Villa is a sanctuary of light and balance with a serene and holistic atmosphere, where the luxury lies in the details of the minimalist approach. There is a concern about establishing a connection with the place and about meeting the specific requirements of the client and programme. The architectural layout was designed to alleviate the impression of the narrowness of the frontage in an optimal way and make the best use of the siteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s conditions within the maximum volume allowed by setback restrictions. Large-scale claddings of Carrara marble, walls, and ceilings that create a consistent visual appearance are augmented by the balanced selection of furniture and materials. Glossy surfaces and deliberately placed colour accents contrast with the brass metal, the elegant light lacquer, and wood. Glazed elements were added throughout to the floors, in order to emphasise the connection between indoors and outdoors. In addition to that, the landscape design was also emphasised, referring to its natural habitat and the appeal of modern beach living, with palm trees along the boundary walls.

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AFONSO ROMANO ________

fonso Romano, Fonzo to friends. Son of Mi and Tó Romano, two “legends” of the Portuguese fashion industry. The descendant of Central Models’ founders has left fashion aside to dedicate himself to the imaginary world.

Virtual reality is where Afonso, with 28 years old, brings to life heroes, villains, characters and objects that don’t exist. Currently living in London and working to Movie Picture Company, the young Portuguese is now working on the remake of The Lion King. The passion for story telling started when he was 19 and it lead Afonso to discover the 3D Animation. He likes comedy but didn’t always know what he wanted to do. Nowadays, he works with some of the cinema industry giants, such as Marvel, Disney and Universal. Guardians of the Galaxy, Pirates of the Caribbean, X-Men, Life and Exodus are some of the movies in which he worked on. However, it was with The Jungle Book that he won the Academy Award for Best Visual Effects. To Afonso, the 3D Animation is the break of the limits of imagination: every story and idea comes to life almost like magic and the possibilities are endless. Fonzo is almost a super hero of the modern days. He doesn’t wear a cape or have a sword, but he represents Portugal with fierceness in such a competitive world as cinema. With or without the cape, he will most certainly conquer the world.

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GAME ON ________

NEW LOOKS IN PORTUGUESE FASHION Words: Catarina Vasques Rito Photos: Jorge Amaral

Clรกudia Barros

he growing interest in fashion gives rise to new talents, fresher looks and dynamics that enhance a more contemporary approach. The influences are international, with local, in other words Portuguese, interpretations, paving the way for specific aesthetics. Fashion does not just consist of stylists, designers and dressmakers, the textile and footwear industry, but of a group of professionals working together for the good of the whole. The proof of this is that there are fashion producers, stylists or photographers, who work together to provide visibility and capture the interest of those who buy the products. Portuguese Soul spoke to two figures who are leading the fashion scene in Portugal: Clรกudia Barros, stylist and fashion editor of Vogue Portugal; and Ricardo Santos, fashion photographer. Talent flows through their veins!

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Fashion allows Cláudia Barros to have a challenging attitude, as well as one of change and dreams, knowing that very often her chosen profession is confused with that of fashion designer. “I think the term fashion producer confuses people, the fact is that often there isn’t enough budget and the stylist ends up being in charge of the management and logistics of a production, an editorial spread or a campaign, but in the ideal world, it shouldn’t be like that,” she explains, aware that the profession she chose is not always understood by ordinary people. Having time for family and friends can be complicated, which is why Claudia Barros has built up her group of friends in the professional field she has chosen. “The lack of time is the greatest difficulty I have. On the other hand, I’m rewarded in other ways, this profession keeps your brain working all the time, I feel that I’m always learning, meeting new people, travelling, and having access to unique experiences. This profession comes with a dose of adrenaline!” For those who wish to make styling and fashion production a career, Cláudia advises that they should enjoy creating, not be afraid to work hard, be kind and be “very professional”. Leaving Portugal to work in another country is not on the cards for this stylist, “I really like this country, I like living here, I like our culture and I think the fashion market will grow – that is, I believe that.

But I really want to work outside of the country, which is completely viable in this field. You can have your base here and still travel to do your work. This would be my plan for the future.” A 10th grade teacher challenged her to study Fashion Design. Cláudia Barros followed this advice and enrolled in Magestil. She later went on to expand her knowledge of Fashion Design at ESART in Castelo Branco, where she completed her bachelor’s and master’s degrees. She never thought about being a stylist or working for fashion magazines, but the truth was that her fate was already determined. “When I did my master’s degree, and while I was an intern at Dielmar, I realised that I didn’t feel completely fulfilled. This is because I have always loved the developmental part of the concept, research, fashion history, design, etc., but I didn’t feel fulfilled or skilled enough when it came to the technical development of a collection (such as the shaping, modelling and production). By coincidence, and because life is interesting in that way, one of my Master’s lecturers was Professor Ana Caracol, Shopping Editor at Vogue Portugal, so I was able to do a curricular internship at the magazine”. After two months of training at Vogue Portugal, she realised that she had found her path. An internship that should have lasted six months was extended to two years. After this experience, she worked on the Fashion Clinic online platform as a stylist and after

that, she decided to invest in her career as a freelancer. For almost a year, she explored, invested and threw all her energies into it, until she received a phone call from Vogue to join the team, in the role of Fashion Editor. This young professional has a generally positive and pleasant attitude; she wins over those she works with and feels that the efforts she makes are recognised by her colleagues – makeup artists, hairdressers, photographers, models, other stylists – who do not hesitate to praise her professionalism. Regarding what is lacking in the national fashion scene for it to achieve more growth and improve the business strategy inside and outside the country, this professional admits that "designers need more organisation and structure". There are good designers, but "no matter how much you talk about support, I don’t feel there is enough assistance for them to have a structure. They should have time to focus on their collections and their research, instead they waste a lot of time on logistics. Thus, there should be commercial and marketing assistance in order to achieve returns, enable more investment and have opportunities to take more risks," she admits, noting that when it comes photographers or stylists the question is "a cultural issue: customers have no education or don’t have an open mind to buy designer outfits, but then I think it's up to us, the magazines and the media, to educate consumers."

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Cláudia Barros - Stylist and Fashion Editor, Vogue Magazine Portugal

Ricardo Santos came across photography after doing a degree in Communication Design at the Lusófona University, although until he started 10th year he wanted to be an architect. However, his passion for the art of photography took over and he started being involved in other aspects outside of the focus on fashion, such as artistic photography, photoreporting or photographic documentaries. This young man, who admits that it all started out as "a joke", soon realised that a passing curiosity had turned into a profession. "At first, I had no experience and no resources, I invited my friends to take pictures of them and I produced my own sessions. It was truly gratifying and enjoyable to see what I had imagined coming to life in an image." With a demanding attitude, and with many doubts about his approach as a photographer, he dedicates a lot of time to the jobs he takes on, meticulous about quality and avoiding mistakes. Still, he recognises that each challenge is satisfying. "I feel that I’m constantly evolving and managing to respond to challenges that I never thought I could achieve when I started working as a photographer. Slowly, I have managed to achieve some of my dreams, working for recognised publishing projects inside and outside Portugal, such as the Vogue Portugal or Portuguese Soul magazines. Not forgetting the invitations I have received by the national designers Alexandra Moura and Carlos Gil," says Ricardo Santos. He seeks, through his camera lens, to achieve a look of impact and simplicity, difficult to achieve as he himself emphasizes,

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Ricardo Santos

not forgetting a touch of fantasy, which is permissible for those who work with and in fashion. "Many national brands and media use images with more artifice or sophistication and I don’t identify with these, but there are also those who have an aesthetic and creative vision similar to the one I intend to develop", a look that he has managed to achieve with the different jobs he has taken on, precisely because he is a professional open to aesthetic challenges. Versatility defines the boldness of this young fashion photography professional, who is constantly being put to the test. His relationship with national fashion has grown, and he always has the desire to help promote national talent, and the desire to one day be able to venture beyond borders. "Experiencing other markets, gaining skills, being in contact with other professionals, turns out to be a goal. I have my sights set on being able to work outside my country one day, but that doesn’t mean that I won’t return. I want to have the opportunity to create my own style and my own space", he stresses, emphasizing that the pursuit of perfection "can be a defect in this profession". He confesses that he thinks "too much about things" which may have a negative effect on the final result of his work, however, he is aware that his best quality is the ability to focus. He feels grateful for the opportunities he has been given and the challenges he has faced during his first "four years in a profession that fascinates me every day!"

S AVA G E H I L L S BA LLRO O M ________

Photos: Ricardo Santos Styling: Joel Alves

Jagoda: Blouse and Skirt: Filipe Faísca. Claudio: T-shirt and Trousers: Luís Carvalho

Shoes: Blanditia; Earrings: Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own; Jacket: Carolina Machado; Socks: H&M

Shoes: Perks; Suit: Luís Carvalho; Shirt: David Catalán

White Shirt: David Catalán; Blue Shirt: Luís Carvalho

Shoes: Felmini; Hat: Filipe Faísca x Palmas Douradas; Top: Carolina Machado; Suit: Filipe Faísca

Shoes: Eureka; Earrings: Stylist’s own; Shirt: Alexandra Moura; Skirt: Filipe Faísca

Earrings: Stylist’s own; Dress: Filipe Faísca

Shoes: Lemon Jelly; Hat: Filipe FaĂsca x Palmas Douradas; Dress: Carolina Machado

Shoes: Fly London; Hat: Loja ร s de Espadas; Jacket and Trousers: Alexandra Moura; Shirt: David Catalรกn

Claudio - Shorts: David Catalรกn

Jagoda - Bag: Elenco; Shirt and Skirt: Carolina Machado

Shoes: Vegastyle; Shirt: David Catalán; Trousers: Luís Carvalho

Shoes: Take a Walk; Earrings: Stylist’s own; Dress: Inês Torcato; Shirt: Carolina Machado; Belt: Loja Ás de Espadas

Hair: Zé Carlos Taipa with Lupa Styling Make-up: Inês Aguiar Models: Claudio Ciocirlan and Jagoda Ruszkowska ‘Best Models’ Earrings: Stylist’s own; Dress: Filipe Faísca

T H E ALLURE OF M O DA LI S B OA ________

Words: Catarina Vasques Rito Photos: ModaLisboa

Patrick de Pรกdua

he 2018 Spring-Summer collections were unveiled in the renovated Pavilhรฃo Carlos Lopes hall, accompanied by a lot of sun and heat, to remind us of the summer that has just ended and the summer that is coming in 2018. Clothing, footwear and accessories were showcased on the catwalks both inside and outside of this space, located in the centre of Lisbon. Three days dedicated to fashion created by Portuguese designers, fashion we should follow and wear!

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Luís Carvalho

In each edition of ModaLisboa we see a journey of commitment by those who have chosen to work in the fashion field. 23 shows, one of which is dedicated to new talent, New Blood, with the participation of Nadir Tati, the renowned stylist from Angola, who has become a staple at this show, and of Aleksandar Protic, who has returned to showcase his talents once again. Filipe Faísca closed the ‘Light’ edition of ModaLisboa with the “Fertilizer” collection, in an open appeal to female sensuality, using delicate, fluid materials, not forgetting the traditional beauty of lace used in some outfits. However, before this almost jubilant ending, which received a lot of applause from the public, there were other good times to be had during the three days of the 49th Lisbon Fashion Week: Kolovrat, David Ferreira, Ricardo Andrez, Nuno Gama, Aleksandar Protic, Morecco, Nair Xavier, Olga Noronha, Eureka, Luís Carvalho and Mustra. Boldness has a name: David Ferreira, this young man has the talent and the ability not to fear being daring. Different, artistic, the collections by this designer are not for everyday wear, but they are for use on very special occasions. Indeed, fashion must have these moments and this space for those who know how to use it. However, it would be unfair not to talk about Morecco, the

brand that revealed its third ready-to-wear collection, inspired by India and the clothes of Rajasthan. The designer of the brand, João Magalhães, stood out with iconagraphic references that can be traced back to Hindu, Buddhist and Mandala roots. Where Lidija Kolovrat is concerned, talent comes in the form of working traditions, exploring their concept, the conceptual lines in an intelligent blend with the commercial. Ideal for women who like to show a different side of themselves without clashing with the dress codes of more conservative professions or more casual business codes. Aleksandar Protic’s return was pleasing, but it was not enchanting, as we knew beforehand that this professional has the capacity to do much better, there is an intrinsic delicacy in Protic’s constructive view that makes us want more and, of course, better. As for the jeweller Olga Noronha, sensitivity is directly associated with the irrefutable attitude of a plastic artist. Care in the construction of each piece and the artistic potential that is explored without fear of disillusionment make this woman a case of near perfect talent. Luís Carvalho’s growth has been nurtured at ModaLisboa. We are surprised at each edition by his use of colour, volumetry and layering, pleasing those who follow him, both ‘opinion makers’ as well as consumers, proving that he is in this profession because he has talent.

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Valentim Quaresma

Another highlight of ModaLisboa was Nuno Gama. The brand dedicated to male consumers created an element of surprise by the way the models came out onto the catwalk, almost unrecognisable due to the white paint on their bodies, emphasizing the creations offered by this stylist. Gama’s work is created thinking of men who are interested in their appearance, who aren’t afraid to show their well-maintained bodies, dressed in well-constructed pieces made of quality materials. Nair Xavier with the collaboration of Diniz&Cruz and Mustra were in contrast with the more conceptual creations. Nair Xavier was able to achieve good balance between the traditional and the ethnic, in the association between traditionally shaped items and tribal jewellery, emphasizing the beauty of the models, showing that men can be the perfect showcase without looking ridiculous. The Mustra brand, inspired by Italian style, took us by surprise with the use of colour and patterns, in a collection that is well protected by good finishes, with the use of materials that are appropriate for the hot months of the year.

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The relationship between the stylists/designers and the footwear sector enhances the work of both parties, and the proof of this is the quality demonstrated in each collection. It enhances the design and the item itself, which is evident in the materials and the production, not forgetting the ideas that come together to achieve a happy result Xfor the consumer, who is increasingly attracted by the proposals he or she sees on the catwalk. One of the successful brands is Eureka, which is open to partnerships with designers such as Luis Carvalho and Nuno Gama, not forgetting its own production, which has won over national and foreign consumers over the years. The summer 2018 collection is based on the diversity of ideas, offering creations that are based on distinctive moments of city life. The “Light” edition, as already mentioned in this text, took place in the renovated Pavilhão Carlos Lopes hall, drawing the attention of the public to a central zone of the city. This building was constructed in 1932, and is a replica of a building constructed in Brazil in 1922 for the International Grand Exhibition of Rio de Janeiro.

SS18

INFO@JJHEITORSHOES.COM WWW.JJHEITORSHOES.COM

NEW BLOOD ________

Words: Catarina Vasques Rito Photos: ModaLisboa

Rita Sรก

David Pereira, Filipe Augusto, Rita Afonso and Rita Sรก are the young designers who, according to the jury, took this edition of the New Blood competition by storm, with the most interesting collections. The combined catwalk show of this platform, targeted at young designers starting out in their fashion careers, had 10 participants, showcasing outfits inspired by streetwear.

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Filipe Augusto

What is showcased on the catwalk is not always suitable for use on the street. It cannot be emphasized enough that the fashion show is where an idea and/or concept of either a designer or commercial brand is put into context. Those participating in competitions like New Blood are potential future fashion designers, so-called because they are still in the embryonic stage of their careers and they may or may not have a future in the national or international sector. They have creative freedom, based on a well-reasoned idea of what design is, who it is aimed at and the demands of producing clothes. These starting points should be clear to all future fashion professionals. There are, however, other important points for potential professional success, such as management and business strategy skills. Street style, also known as “streetwear”, was a common denominator of the creations shown in the latest edition of New Blood, which was a clear highlight of the ten shows, albeit showcased in a more alternative form, whether creative or conceptual. Apparently, the cult for the sophisticated, elegant and beautiful is out of fashion and outdated. What a pity! However, the resolve for conceptualization is also wearing thin and it has very little attraction, due to the fact that “futurism” or “avant-garde” no longer directly exists in fashion and design.

Federico Cina

Of the ten collections for summer 2018 that were showcased at the New Blood competition, the work of Alexandre Pereira, Frederico Cina, Rita Afonso, Rira Sá and Ivan Almeida stood out. Of these names, Rita Afonso received The Feeting Room prize (a store in Lisbon and Porto), and an honourable mention from ModaLisboa, and Rita Sá received an honourable mention from ModaLisboa. In turn, Filipe Augusto received the Fashionclash prize and an honourable mention from ModaLisboa, while David Pereira was the winner of the ModaLisboa prize. These last two young designers, and winners of this edition, worked on collections with some debate on genderless clothing, the topic of the day, which doesn’t always need to have a less exaggerated approach. However, this idea was cohesively defended and, where David Pereira’s work is concerned, it is something that draws your attention though there is nothing luxurious about it, although this was the approach that was defended. There is a strong need for knowledge in relation to certain definitions, and its absence weakens and contributes to an intellectual and cultural gap. The “7 Saias” collection by Filipe Augusto draws attention to the Portuguese traditional costume of Nazaré adapted to the male consumer. Interesting, with the need for validation that goes beyond the simple design. Experimenting is pivotal in the journey of an artist, but other ingredients have to be considered right away. Once again, New Blood brought talent, with the awareness that it is important to give space to the “voices” of the youth.

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MARIA GUEDES ________

THE NEW PASSION

She is one of the most famous Portuguese bloggers of our time. Now Maria Guedes has a new passion: shoes. The author of the Stylista blog has just partnered with Lemon Jelly and is developing an exclusive design. The partnership has resulted in two designs: a red one and a burgundy one, in velvet, with a masculine touch, of which Maria Guedes is a big fan. The laces come in three different shades (always with a red base) which allow the customer to choose the colour they want to use. Maria Guedes, a fashion student and author of the Stylista blog, has already worked with designers like Zac Posen and Jill Stuart. More recently, she has been collaborating on developments with brands such as Omnia Girls, Elleta, Nutrisse and L’Oréal. Designed, developed and produced in Portugal, the Lemon Jelly brand was launched in 2013 by Procalçado, a company with more than 40 years of experience in the footwear market designing and manufacturing injected soles for brands all over the world.

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PORTUGAL FA S H I O N ________

Words: Clรกudia Pinto Photos: Portugal Fashion

It literally went around the world in a few months. From Paris to London, from Milan to New York, Portugal Fashion took the best of its national creations to the international fashion capitals. And because the best thing about going... is always coming back, Portugal Fashion ended its journey on home ground.

Pedro Pedro

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Pedro Pedro

irst in Lisbon, then in Porto, Portuguese fashion could not have been better represented. In total, 30 shows and six prestigious venues played host to national fashion in all its confident pride. Storytailors told a story about ‘enchantment’, with the Palindrome invading the Rive Rouge, in an artistic performance that replaced the traditional fashion show. In Milan, the audience was lit up by an explosion of colour, and Lisbon was no exception. Braço de Prata hosted Pedro, immediately followed by Carlos Gil. With repeat shows in Italy, the designers presented their creations for the hot days of 2018 in the capital. Once again strong colours were the focus, and the production quality of the garments stood out. Luís Onofre’s presentation of Ziggurats was the icing on the cake to close Portugal Fashion’s return to home soil. The nationally-produced shoes were the focus of attention, in a collection inspired by Mesopotamia and presented in a succession of layers.

Returning to Invicta, the first day was dedicated to the youth of the Bloom project, a Portugal Fashion platform that aims to promote and assist young designers. Starting at the youngest and ending with Sara Maia, the Electric Car Museum hosted eight young designers and 12 students from six schools. The Diogo Miranda fashion show took centre stage on the second day. To celebrate the 10th year of his career, the designer was inspired by swans and their opulent silhouette. Hugo Costa returned to “fishing”, but this time in front of the River Douro. After Paris, the creator returned to the Alfândega do Porto to present “Don’t Fish my Fish”. Miguel Vieira closed the second day in the north, also in a celebratory mood. Celebrating his 30-year career, the designer focused on a collection that recreates individuality and projects the future of the brand.

On the last day, Katty Xiomara set off to the old Matadouro Porto, in a show that combined streetwear with haute couture. Luís Buchinho followed on at Cais Novo with light, sporty creations and predictions of an easy-going summer. Nuno Baltazar brought the fashion shows to the Alfândega do Porto, in a combination of filmrelated creations, which culminated with the unveiling of a partnership between the creator and the sports brand Sport Zone. Another Alexandra Moura collection was born from the deterioration of the Portuguese palaces. Within the time with, directly from London fashion week, focuses on the passage of time and the traces it leaves behind on everything: monuments and people.

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LuĂs Buchinho

Shoes: Fly London

Once again, Portuguese footwear stood out in the days dedicated to national creativity. Shoes brought together six footwear brands. Ambitious, Dkode, Fly London, J. Reinaldo, Nobrand and Rufel presented their creations for next summer. Presented to a full house, with the promise of making hot days a platform for creativity. More than a dozen creative partnerships between footwear companies and national designers have once again stepped into the limelight. Ana Sousa closed the cycle of Portugal Fashion shows. The hot days could not be better presented. Proof that national creativity is more active than ever.

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Katty Xiomara

CMY

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Jacket: Ricardo Andrez; Track Trousers: Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own; Vintage Necklace

W E C A N O N LY B E WHO WE ARE ________

Photos: Celso Colaรงo Styling: Fernando Bastos Pereira

Total look: Hugo Costa; Necklace: Ambush at Wrongweather.net PORTUGUESE SOUL 173

Shirt: InĂŞs Torcato; Earring: Ambush at Wrongweather.net

Shoes: J. Reinaldo; Total look: Ricardo Andrez; Ring: Maison Margiela at Wrongweather.net

Shorts: Ricardo Andrez; Ring: Maison Margiela at Wrongweather.net

Shoes: Gino-B; Total look: Hugo Costa; Sunglasses: Vava; Vintage Belt

Total look: Hugo Costa; Belt: Ricardo Andrez

Bag: Ruben Rua for Rufel; Shoes: Ambitious; Top and Shorts: Hugo Costa

Total look: Hugo Costa; Sunglasses: Vava; Vintage Belt

Shoes: Valuni; Total look: InĂŞs Torcato; Earring: Ambush at Wrongweather.net

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Shoes: Exceed Shoe Thinkers; Total look: Ricardo Andrez

Shoes: Exceed Shoe Thinkers; Shorts: Hugo Costa

Shorts: Hugo Costa

Shoes: Ambitious; Total look: Hugo Costa; Sunglasses: Vava

Shoes: Nobrand; Jacket: Hugo Costa; Shorts: Ricardo Andrez; Vintage Necklace

Jacket: Hugo Costa; Ring: Maison Margiela at Wrongweather.net

Shoes: Moccâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s; Total look: Hugo Costa; Belt: Ricardo Andrez

Production: ‘Snowberry’ Photographer’s Assistent: Carlos Cirilo Styling Assistant: Nelson Lima Make-up: Helena Almeida Models: Andres Sanjuan and Hugh Berry ‘Sight Management’

Jacket: Hugo Costa; Sunglasses: Vava; Vintage Necklace

THE ART OF PORT UGUESE JEWELLERY ________

Words: Sónia Santos Pereira

aris, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Basel... Portuguese jewellery has crossed borders and oceans and is seducing the world. It is composed of works of art made from diamonds, gold, silver, gems such as rubies, sapphires, emeralds, opals, tanzanites, a whole world of treasures. All crowned with creativity and uniqueness. They are, above all, works of art. Portuguese jewellery is designer jewellery. It travels the world under the flag of “Portuguese Jewellery”, transporting pieces from well-known houses and spreading the news about a new generation of artisans, whose focus is on modernity and respect for tradition. Fátima Santos, Secretary-General of the Watchmaking and Jewellery Association of Portugal (AORP), emphasizes that the industry has new blood today, drawn from design and architecture schools, as well as from jewellery and goldsmiths’ schools. These “New Borns” have embraced old manufacturing techniques, but incorporating fashion trends. They are daring to introduce new materials, design new shapes. A breath of modernity, a driving force to democratise the use of jewellery, an ambition to succeed in the luxury jewellery field. There are various battles ahead, on the path that AORP is charting with all Portuguese jewellers and goldsmiths. They are jewellers who work according to the maxim of “a jewel a day”, such as Andreia Lima, whose eye is without a shadow of a doubt focused on luxury. We are also talking about the Monseo brand, and even the contemporary perspective of space reflected through the jewel, as seen through the eyes of Bruno da Rocha. As everybody knows, jewellery (or diamonds) are a girl’s best friend.

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A Breath of nature Andreia Lima is the sculptor behind “Sopro”, a young Portuguese jewellery brand that encapsulates beauty, fashion, differentiation and quality. The jewellery designer wants to democratise the use of jewellery, and her creations focus on the maxim of “A jewel a day”. Jewellery and fashion walk hand in hand, they are a fast consumption product and have to be fairly priced items, the sculptor says. Using silver (or 24-carat gold plating when a gold item is required), meticulously selected natural stones and her artistic fingers, Andreia Lima creates elegant, distinctive pieces which, despite the democratic pricing, always have an almost eternal quality to them. Nature is her theme of choice, an infinite theme that helps her create earrings inspired by the Latin American fleabane (small flowers similar to daisies) and extend the “Loves me, loves me not” collection to necklaces and bracelets. Designing myosotis rings (flowers that are also known as forget-me-nots), flirting with baroque, and extending this trend to new forms and uses. The brand is available on various ecommerce platforms, apart from being present in physical stores in the main cities of the country. Andreia Lima is now preparing to take her jewellery to stores in Belgium, France, Canada and Thailand. A Breath (Sopro) that is starting to make its presence felt beyond borders.

Bruno da Rocha: The art of seduction

Monseo forever Monseo is high jewellery. It’s a symbol of luxury, sophisticated, limited, unique and daring jewellery, of eternal jewels. It’s a dream imprinted in gold and gemstones. In Monseo, there are no secrets in the way the gold is worked, or in the polishing and the crimping of precious natural stones. They are diamonds, emeralds, sapphires designed to shine in the works of art that are produced. It’s a team of artisans who give shape to themes inspired by modern art, Portuguese history, Art Deco moments. Monseo is tradition and knowledge that is passed down from one hand to another, from one generation to the next. The granddaughter of the founder, the architect Diana Vieira da Silva, grew up designing jewellery, observing artisans, listening to her father talking about gemology, her grandfather explaining the business, creating her own pieces in plasticine. Today she’s the bridge between the past and the future of Monseo, symbolising the study of the history and heritage of the house and the transformation of this art to new levels. As she points out, her work intends to be the synthesis of the life of Monseo - the quality, differentiation, luxury in the details - with contemporary trends that take you by surprise. Indeed, Diana Vieira da Silva has taken us by surprise. The young architect was awarded the Golden category of the A’Design Awards for the Portuguese Story collection, jewellery inspired by the vaulted roofs of the Jerónimos Monastery. Recently she designed a collection for Serralves, based on the Art Deco background of the house. A new approach in the art of Portuguese jewellery that has added to Monseo’s fame in Portugal and the world.

Bruno da Rocha was born with his eyes on the world. The jeweller is without a doubt one of the most internationally renowned names at the forefront of the current art of Portuguese jewellery. Recently his jewellery became known to the whole of Holland, depicted on the advertising that announced the new edition of Sieraad – the International Jewellery Art Fair. The designer creates pieces that bring together dream moments, rare figures of nature, post-industrial scenarios, in an almost monochromatic palette. He says that his work is seduction jewellery, but it’s not to everyone’s taste. The size of the jewellery, which is extravagant at times, the (de)construction of the pieces, the introduction of new materials in the items, has led his jewellery to a niche market of women more connected to the arts, with contemporary and post-modern tastes. All of it is a new ‘savoirfaire’, a new language, that he carries in his suitcase to exhibit at international fairs. Today, Bruno da Rocha is an important figure in jewellery created by Portuguese designers, but he recognises that the journey was difficult and fraught with obstacles. He chased after his dreams, his individual project, he invested and won, backed another and lost, he travelled and he gained knowledge. New York, Munich, Helsinki and Hong Kong are places he has visited along the way. He has experienced both happy times and times of solitude. He didn’t give up, he always believed in himself, in his art of seduction.

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LUÍSA ROSAS ________

THE 5TH GENERATION OF ACCOMPLISHED JEWELLERY KNOW-HOW Words: Ilídia Pinto

trained architect, Luísa Rosas was born into a family with a long tradition of jewellery-making. The first Rosas de Mateus dos Santos Rosas family workshop was established way back in 1860 by Luísa’s great-great grandfather. David Rosas, her father, was responsible for opening the first stores belonging to the brand, first in Porto and later in Lisbon, Algarve and Funchal.

Luísa grew up living and breathing the family business. When the first store opened in Porto she was seven years old, and it almost became like a second home to her, but at the same time she also always assumed that she didn’t want to be part of the company. Her chosen passion was architecture. But one day she was challenged by her brother, Pedro, who was the company manager and at that time was already helping their parents with the business, to create a jewellery collection. She didn’t want to do it without getting some training and so she completed a postgraduate course in jewellery design at the Catholic University in Porto. The biggest surprise, she says, was noticing that not only are there “enormous similarities” in the creative process of the two arts, but that she also felt very good performing this role. The first collection, BE, launched in 2009, was done while she was still working in architecture, and she continued for 10 years to work in that area. But the desire to globalise the Luísa Rosas brand led her, later, to dedicate her talents exclusively to high jewellery. A difficult decision, but one she hasn’t regretted at all.

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The first three collections - BE, SKIN and CARING TALES - were still developed under the David Rosas brand. Always with the signature ‘The Shape of Nature’. ESSENCES, launched in 2014, marks the launch of her own brand, Luísa Rosas, that is available for sale today in Portugal, the United States, Dubai and, more recently, Switzerland. In the meantime, she has already launched TRIBE and, more recently, Flying Seeds, a shared project in partnership with Catarina Furtado and the Associação Corações com Coroa, a non-profit organisation that intends to promote inclusion, equality and citizenship, ensuring “the development of social and political awareness around the theme - To support a woman is to support a family, a community, a country”. Solidarity is an innate aspect of the young designer. “My life cannot make sense without this. I believe that companies that have the capacity have this obligation and at David Rosas, since 2009, when the company celebrated its 25th year of existence, we made the commitment to always be involved in at least one social project”, she explains. For three years they supported Terra dos Sonhos, and for the

past three years they have worked with Corações com Coroa. She has designed four Flying Seeds pieces, the only collection that includes silver jewellery. The Flying Seeds are on sale at the six David Rosas shops, as well as the online shop belonging to the brand. Furthermore, all the profit from this project will go to Corações com Coroa. Catarina Furtado, Daniela Ruah, Raquel Strada, Sara Matos, Victoria Guerra and Lola Dueñas are some of the women from the world of fashion and entertainment that have been seduced by Luísa Rosas jewellery. But the most famous name is that of Julia Roberts: the designer gave her one of her bracelets in gold and diamonds last year and the North American actress made sure that she was photographed wearing it in a production for the cover of InStyle magazine. A success that, despite being a coincidence, helped the brand gain entry to the United States. “It gave us credibility in a market where no-one knew us”, she said. Luísa Rosas huge sense of pride is not based on the final result of the creative process, but on witnessing the pleasure that women feel when they wear her jewellery.

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SUMMER VIBE ________

Words: Cláudia Pinto

t smells like summer and the sea. The many different coloured hues of the country’s sandy beaches. Umbrellas, towels, bikinis. Beachfront sidewalks and terraces are packed with people. Ana and Bruna Azevedo. Twins. They are the protagonists of this story. In this idyllic setting we have created... the bodies call the shots. Ana designed her first piece in 2014. Using fabric purchased at a store, the industrial designer’s brand was born. Nizza reinvented a concept that stands out because it is distinctive and recreates the iconic pieces of the 80s. An authentic journey back in time that now takes on new meaning. Reality has overtaken fiction and today the orders these sisters receive amount to 1000 pieces per month. With a wide range of diverse products, Nizza already has 13 shops scattered throughout the country, but the most sought-after platform continues to be online sales. With almost 29000 followers, Facebook is the main sales channel. The quality of the materials, the detail of the finishing, the irreverence of the designs, the digital patterns, and careful communication – these are the ingredients for success.

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THE POETRY OF PURPOSE ________

Words: Irina Chitas

Here it is: a brand that, above all, has a strong sense of self. Abby Best and Paula Fernandes are the masterminds behind YearOne, launched in London in 2014, and we talked to the portugueses designer about how it all began - and where they are going from here.

To start, I want to know a bit about both of your backgrounds. Where were you born and what did you want to be when you grew up? I was born in Paris and Abby was born in East London, where the brand is based. Abby wanted to be a hairdresser, I wanted to be in a band, as the lead singer! Neither of us made it, thank god! How did fashion came into your lives? My family moved to Lisbon and I end up at applied arts school Antonio Arroio, where I did textil and fell in love with cloth and colour, after that I did Fashion at (the now) Modatex in Porto, that’s where it all started for me. Abby’s dad had a fashion company based here in East London, where most of the manufactures were based. This very familiar world was to become her own years later. 196

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And how did you two meet? We first met whiles working for a company in West London in 2003, and we immediately clicked! We used to go out for cigarettes (we were the only smokers!) and discuss our views, especially in fashion! We worked together a second time in a different company and it was really a case of third time lucky when we finally set up our company. How did both your aesthetic visions ended up sewn into one that is YearOne? We’re both very different in our personal taste, and interests, but we realised we both aspired to the same brands, so we set up to create a women’s wear brand that could cater to our needs and others like us.

I’m thinking London must be an exciting bubble for young designers, but the market has to be difficult, with so many talent and so many offers, so starting your own brand can, sometimes, be a bit of a bold task. Do you remember the time where you decided that, despite all difficulties, YearOne had to be born? Yes absolutely, there’s so many brands and new designers popping up each year, so competition is fierce! We set up a consulting business designing ladieswear in 2008, which became very successful with the main UK high street brands. We found that some of nicest and more interesting styles were often left on the rail, so we decided, pretty much from day one, when the time came, we would start a brand and use our instinct to create a line that was more intuitive rather than following any particular trends. What was more exciting during the first months of the brand? There were many moments like designing the brand’s logo, done by a graphic designer friend on a night out, in the pub on a back of a pack of cigarettes, literally! Or when the first samples arrived completed with all the branding and looked amazing, we knew we were on to something we loved and that was key for us. Was there any milestone in the history of the brand? Or the growth has been very steady and consistent? Being picked up by amazing retailers like No6 Store in NY, a very well established independent

store, on our first show in Paris was pretty amazing! Being featured in The NY times last week (via No6 Store)…was definitely a milestone for the brand. Do you feel your aesthetic has grown with you or, since the start, you always had a very clear vision about what you wanted YearOne to be? Our vision for the brand position has definitely been there since the start. We always wanted YearOne to have a strong brand identity combined with a sense of purpose. Clothes that are not too casual nor formal, with a ‘sporty’ easy-wear aesthetic without being another brand of basics. When you are designing a collection, what is the utterly most important thing? We sell in the US but we also sell in Japan, Italy and Australia, these are all very different territories, so we need to be mindful when designing that we keep each collection truthful to the brand ethos. We usually start with the colour palette so we feel this is possibly the main point, along with cloth. The most important thing is to feel something. What fabric, or silhouette, continues to fascinate you, season after season? It’s not so much a fabric or silhouette but the need to create an item that evokes a sense of energy and inspires a personal experience with the piece. We are interested in fashion with a emphasis on comfort, longevity and mostly integrity. Fashion has largely moved on from where it was when we started our careers, but we are often find ourselves liking similar items and redesigning or reissuing old designs

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What are the core values you want to transmit in every piece? We like to think that our pieces have a sense of purpose. Do you see a specific girl wearing your clothes? Who is she? Not really, but she’s a strong women, no doubt. Our current collection was named simply, HER. The collection is defiant in its attitude, and it builds on our vision to continue making clothes for strong likeminded women. We’re all living longer which means age is more about social tribes, lifestyle and personal beliefs than about what year you were born. We’ve been asked many times what’s the age bracket for our customer, and we really don’t have an answer to that question. How do you see the fashion industry today? Are these exciting times? We live in a data-driven world. Brands are tapping into demographics (who is the consumer) and psychographics (why they buy) to establish growth strategies. E-commerce is the big thing now, like most brands our focus is on direct sales via our website. We don’t think data is a bad thing but it’s absolutely not everything. What we’re interested is knowing what keeps customers interested, and not to forget that behind each click- to- buy there’s a person!

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What do you think is lacking in the system? There’s no clear understanding on how do the brands actually make garments. Consumers need to move from buying more to buying better, choosing products that are not harmful to animals and the planet! Sustainable practices are lacking. We sampled our Happy Coat initially with down (goose feathers) which made the coat nice and light and very warm. When we requested certification from the supplier, before going in to production for origin of the down, we were told this could not be provided. We got in touch with our customers and explained we were changing this coat to have synthetic filler rather than down. The coats sell out every time. It’s up to us to make these changes. What would be an ideal world for you - and for YearOne? To partner with a department store like Bon Marche in Paris or an e-tailer like Net-a-Porter and grow this relationship to create a solid customer following. To keep receiving great feedback on the collections and see happy people wearing our clothes.

OUTSIDE THE BOX ________

PEDRO NETO Words: Catarina Vasques Rito Photo: Jorge Amaral

e is 22 years old and people are already talking about him. He may be unknown to the public in general, but the truth is that this young man has had his own brand for four years, he has had fashion shows at six editions of the Bloom Platform of Portugal Fashion, and in November 2016, he opened the BOX32 Studio in Porto city, together with other artists. “It was inevitable that fashion would be my chosen field. My family has a textile factory, Giva Choice, which produces for international brands, a place I often visited since I was a tender age. The love for transformation, the opportunity to see a product being born, and creative versatility led me to the Porto School of Fashion and to Modatex, where I studied Fashion Design”, Pedro Neto explains. "Participating in Bloom taught me many different things. It gave me visibility and insight into what is really important for anyone who wants to have a brand in this area and what choices they should make," says the designer, who is investing in sellable collections rather than artistic collections, "because more conceptual, alternative work has the tendency of not bringing in the desirable commercial returns." The fact that he adjusts his concept to the rules of the game of being a business

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owner does not restrict the creativity of this Santo Tirso designer. The truth is that at the age of 22 years, Pedro Neto has an idea of how the market works, even though he still has a long way to go. "I'm not scared of obstacles. They make me stronger. My collections have a romantic gothic/neo-punk approach, interpreted for an audience that likes to be challenged," he emphasizes. BOX32 Studio is born of the need of a group of people who wanted to have their own workspace and sales area. "The general public is invited to visit us, to get to know the work of the different artists who are there, and to buy their products. BOX32 Studio is a set of complementary ideas, that is, we have fashion, jewellery, painting, photography, graphic design. I believe that creating tools that support growth must be based on investing in structures that allow you to grow both creatively and commercially.” He began his journey with a women's line and widened the scope to include a men’s line, as it "made sense to align the brand". In the near future, he wants to have a footwear line; he already ventured into this sector two years ago, but he had to put his efforts on hold as he was unable to "get production partners."

THE REVOLUTION IS NOW C

CMY

CAFÉS WI T H H ISTORY ________

Words: Sónia Santos Pereira

Exploring the history of Porto in the past century requires an obligatory visit to the beautiful cafés of the city. Urban changes, de-industrialisation, residents leaving the city and questionable modernisation had a strong impact on these spaces where people come together to talk and socialise. Cafés such as the Astoria, Sport, Excelsior, Rialto, Golden Eagle, Palladium or Imperial have closed their doors, giving way to banking institutions, hotels, fast food chains, commerce. In these spaces, current political topics were debated, ideas were exchanged and ideals were defended, art trends were analysed, philosophy was discussed, and new doors were opened to culture.

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Café Majestic It is one of the most beautiful cafés in the world. Café Majestic is a symbol of the Belle Époque era in Porto, of elegance, fun, glamour, socialising and political and cultural debates. It is also a symbol of Art Nouveau, with its mirrors, decorated ceilings, and marble. Due to the beauty of the space, it was named a Building of Public Interest. It became a place visited by countless Portuguese and international public figures. Its guest book has signatures and messages from Presidents of the Republic such as Mário Soares, Jacques Chirac and Jucelino Kubitschek de Oliveira, the artists Júlio Resende and Manoel de Oliveira, the actors Eunice Muñoz and Vergílio Castelo, writers such as Agustina Bessa-Luís or David Mourão-Ferreira and many, many others. The Café Majestic, which was formerly called the Elite, is a symbol of the city open to the world. Rua Santa Catarina, 112.

Café Progresso Café Progresso emerged at the turn of the twentieth century and is famous in the city for the quality of its coffee. A family-friendly place with a close relationship to its customers, Progresso was always frequented by merchants, residents of the area, and teachers. It was so famous that at one stage Rear Admiral Américo Thomaz, the last President of the Novo Estado republic, sat at its tables and certainly would not have left without tasting the famous coffee. Café Progresso has lived up to its name. After being refurbished and modernised, it has become a place that combines traditional techniques with a contemporary look. It often hosts cultural events, from exhibitions to book launches. The “café de saco” (filter coffee) continues to be a must. Rua Actor João Guedes, 5

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Café Guarany Café Guarany is the celebration of the café-concerts that were very much in vogue in the early twentieth century. When it opened in 1933, it had set aside a space for musical performances, ranging from orchestras to solo musician concerts. It is also the celebration of Portuguese immigrants who made their fortune in Brazil and the fact that this country is the largest coffee producer in the world. Guarany is the name of one of the Indian tribes that inhabited South America, and this café still has a marble relief of a Guarany Indian by the sculptor Henrique Moreira. Café Guarany continues to be a symbol of an era of this city. Concerts remain on the agenda of this café that, despite the refurbishment works, maintained and recovered its original features. The tables and chairs, lamps and fixtures, marble, steel and copper ornaments were all restored and reinstalled in their original positions to once again be enjoyed by the public. After the works were completed, two tableaux were produced by the painter Graça Morais, entitled "The Lords of the Amazon", alluding to the imagery associated with the café’s name. Guarany remains, as always, with its doors open to music, to art, in short, to culture. Avenida dos Aliados, 85

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PARADISE RIGHT HERE ________

QUINTA DO CRASTO Words: Clรกudia Pinto

The smell of ripe grapes ready to harvest. The view from the top barely takes in the dozens of mountains that the Douro meanders through. All noise is left behind, a dozen miles away. Here, there is only tranquillity and holistic landscapes. That you never tire of. Welcome to the Quinta do Crasto.

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n the right bank of the Douro river. Between RĂŠgua and PinhĂŁo... The harvest is about to begin. This year it is earlier than usual. Due to the climate, lastminute changes have to be made; the farm has to adapt to ensure that the renowned quality of the Crasto is never lost. Workers walk up the hill: it is time to collect the raw material from the 130 hectares of vines. Crasto is derived from the Latin word castrum and it means Roman fortress. In the very heart of the Douro region, the estate has been

You can lose yourself in the beauty found at the top of the mountain, by the waters of the pool. The centennial house on the escarpments of the Douro is a delight to visitors. There are few. But just the right number to maintain the tranquillity of the place.

in the Leonor and Jorge Roquette family for more than a century, after his grandfather, Constantino de Almeida, bought the brand. The first known record on the farm dates back to the year 1615, and it was included in the first Feitoria (factory). Later, in 1758, the Marquis of Pombal established boundaries in the Douro region in what would become the first demarcated wine region of the world: a landmark that can still be seen at the entrance of the centuries-old house.

Apart from the breath-taking view, the wine produced has taken and elevated the name of Portugal across borders. Apart from producing the nectar of the gods, the estate produces premium-range products such as olive oil and Port wine, which have been acclaimed by critics of the specialty.

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CLAUS PORTO ________

FLAGSHIP STORE Words: Joana Jervell

www.clausporto.com

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e are at no. 22 on Rua das Flores street, right in the centre of Porto, waiting for your visit to the flagship store of Claus Porto which recently opened its doors, an inauguration that signifies a moment of particular importance for the brand celebrating its 130-year journey in 2017. Founded by the Germans Ferdinand Claus and George Schweder, the iconic brand of soaps, fragrances and beauty products now has a new address in the city where it was born. It is a typical 19th century bourgeois three-storey house, which was renovated according to a project designed by the architect João Mendes Ribeiro. On the ground floor – dominated by a handcrafted terrazzo mosaic with a pattern developed by Claus Porto that pays homage to the strong visual identity represented by the brand – we encounter spaces dedicated to various lines produced by the brand. The Musgo Real collection is a highlight: it occupies an exclusive area at the end of the store, where the Musgo Real Hot Towel Shave, a traditional barber’s service, is provided on Saturdays, an ideal introduction to the products of the men’s collection.

According to Francisco Neto, CEO of the brand, Rua das Flores was chosen for its “timeless charm, similar in every respect to that of Claus Porto” which finds, in this store, “a stage par excellence to present all of its sensory, visual and aromatic facets... enriched by its century-old history and the heartbeat of (its) city”, he adds. Indeed, whoever walks along this pleasant pedestrian road will find it difficult not to notice the attractive storefronts (six in total) of this museum shop, which are the amazing work of set designer Pedro Rodrigues. Apart from its signature soaps, the vast range of products include hand and body lotions, scented candles, shaving products, and more recently it has extended its offering to also include lifestyle products, such as the new Claus Porto soap dishes, stationary collections and range of teas. Claus Porto is present in over 60 countries and is sold in the main luxury department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman in the United States, Harrods in London, The Galeria in South Korea and Le Bon Marché in Paris.

Climbing up to the middle floor, the visitor is invited to revisit the past of the brand, in an exhibition consisting of a collection of documents, photographs and articles referring to the highlights of its history, with the addition of two other graphic designs, curated and installed by the designer Eduardo Aires (from White Studio). Finally, the top floor functions as a laboratory of ideas, hosting a series of workshops that provide an opportunity to get to know the process of manufacture of many of its products.

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HOW TO BUI LD A HOME ________

Words: Irina Chitas Photos: Nuno Sousa Dias

t’s Friday night. You conquer the traffic and when you look up you see the sky lit with all kinds of Christmas lights. Night falls in the city around you, dissolving all the cars, all the buildings, all the people you will never meet. You turn up the volume of that skanky pop music song you don’t tell anyone you love - talk about guilty pleasures - and sing your lungs out, hurrying home. You take your groceries from the back seat (when you finally find a parking space, that is), stumble up the stairs trying to balance the shopping bags, your personal bag and that heavy, heavy jacket and then, finally, you’re home. At last you have time to yourself. You cook the dinner slowly while drinking a perfect red wine and the doorbell rings. Your friends are here.

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You receive them with an open heart and an open smile as they put their coats on Hal, that powder-coated textured steel friend that has hooks for your clothing and a shelve for your keys and all that paraphernalia we always keep in our pockets. They move through the house, find glasses of wine already waiting for them on Basso, that cute minibar that’s also a side table and also whatever you want it to be. You tell them to please sit on all the Oyster stools that are perfectly placed around the room and, if you’re not really feeling into that wine thing before dinner, there is always Dual, right there, filled with fresh water and cucumber arranged around the rim. Kite is, of course, the centre of attention, penetrating into the room with a warm, cosy light. There is laughter, there is lightness, there is that incomparable joy of having someone you love sharing your home. Yes, this is the meaning of home. This is also UTIL, a design brand by Manuel Amaral Netto (who curates all the designers he invites to think about a piece, and is also the main designer of the incredible objects you can’t keep yourself from wanting badly). All the products from UTIL are made in Portugal, using the industries and craftsmen that have that know-how you can’t find anywhere else in the world. Like that ceramic fruit bowl that’s made in Alcobaça and those glass-blown glasses from Marinha Grande. Together, they perfect the way we live. You can tell that they have you in mind, that they are specially made to make your life easier, lighter and, most of all, more beautiful. We can’t think of a better way to build a home.

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TAYLOR’S ________

PORT THAT IS SERVED AT THE QUEEN’S TABLE Words: Ilídia Pinto

t’s been a bumper year for Taylor’s. The port company celebrated its 325th anniversary and received a special ‘gift’: it was granted the Royal Warrant by the British Royal Household, which proves that Taylor’s is one of the official suppliers of port to Her Majesty. This distinction is a “source of huge pride” for the company, states its managing director, Adrian Bridge. The truth is that Taylor’s wines were already a regular presence at events hosted by Queen Elizabeth II, but they were supplied through Berry Bros & Rudd and Fortnum and Mason, some of the most respected clients of the brand in England. But the official warrant of supplier to the Royal Household will help “strengthen the credibility” of Taylor’s in what is its main external market, but also in other Commonwealth countries, such as Canada. Furthermore, since the United Kingdom represents, even today, 26% of the sales of Taylor’s, the company has organised a schedule to commemorate its 325 years that is heavily focused on this market, recreating the first port expedition from Vila Nova de Gaia port to England in 1692, by the company’s founder, Job Bearsley. A trip carried out in partnership with the

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solo sailor Ricardo Diniz who, on board the #Taylors325 yacht, transported a 30-litre barrel of port which was offloaded a week later alongside the Tower of London, where a celebratory dinner was held, attended by the Ambassador of Portugal to the United Kingdom, Manuel Lobo Antunes. The ceremony included the traditional raising of London Bridge to let the yacht sail up the River Thames on route to the dock. From London, Ricardo Diniz and the #Taylors325 yacht set off for Plymouth where he was the first Portuguese participant in the demanding and challenging OSTAR 2017 regatta (Original Singlehanded Transatlantic Race) to Newport, Rhode Island, in the USA. To celebrate the date, the company launched the Taylor’s 325th Anniversary Edition, a tawny old wine prepared from different company reserves, with a recommended public retail price of 35 euros. As it is a limited edition, only 100,000 units were produced, in a bottle especially designed for this celebration, which is a recreation of an old bottle sealed at the end of the 17th century, a date close to the founding of Taylor’s. It’s the oldest example of a bottle with an engraving indicating the date and commercial brand, the 4XX symbol still used by Taylor’s today.

MADEIRA WELCOME TO P E AC EF U L ________

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They call it the Pearl of the Atlantic. A garden planted in the middle of the sea. We call it many things, even when there is no need for a name or a description. We know what they are and why they are like that. This is Madeira. Perfect harmony between the earth and the sea. White houses that stand out against the high mountains that stretch out into the distance beyond our view.

The archipelago was named the “Best Island Destination in the World” in 2015 and 2016 by the World Travel Awards, considered to be the Oscars of tourism. In 2013, 2014 and 2016, it was awarded Europe’s leading Island Destination, having competed in this category alongside major tourist destinations such as the Canary Islands, Balearic Islands, Sardinia, Malta and Cyprus.

The island, lost in the Atlantic, was discovered in 1419 and colonised six years later, when very rich agricultural crops, such as sugar cane, were introduced. Later, wine plantations were introduced (that are known worldwide) and today, in addition to the delicacies it produces, Madeira is recognised as a mandatory stopover for tourists.

There is no shortage of reasons for these awards. Gastronomy, activity, nature, city, traditions and one of the world’s best New Year’s Eve celebrations. So, if you are looking for tranquillity and breath-taking scenery... Madeira is a must for you.

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REASONS TO VISIT PORTUGAL IN 2018 ________

Words: Susana Ribeiro

Besides history, monuments, gastronomy, culture, a pleasant climate and its people ... Portugal has so many attractions to visit. And there are more and more major world events choosing this corner of Europe as their venues. In 2018, there are many more reasons why Portugal will again be the talk of the world. With so many prizes linked to tourism in Portugal, it is only natural that its cities are chosen to host international events. The Portuguese capital was selected to host the 4th Language of Luxury conference, by Condé Nast International, on 18 and 19 April 2018 - which will be held at Pátio da Galé. Those who will be talking about the “language of luxury” will be the managers or representatives of brands such as Rimowa, Arezzao & Co, Christian Dior, Ermenegildo Zegna, Lacoste, Mulberry, Louboutin, Hervé Pierre, Vogue magazine editors from many countries, among many other speakers.

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Also in Lisbon, the largest cruise industry congress, the Seatrade Cruise Med, will be taking place on 19 and 20 September. Recently, the port of Lisbon was considered the Best Cruise Port in Europe, at the World Travel Awards. If you are looking for a musical reason to visit Portugal, there are many concerts and festivals to choose from. Even though there are still no names confirmed for the line-up, Nos Primavera Sound, in Porto, has already confirmed the dates of 7-9 June, and Rock in Rio Lisbon will take place on 23-24 and 29-30 June 2018. Metallica performs on 1 February, The Script on 23 March and Thirty Seconds to Mars on 10 April at the Altice Arena. Then on 23 April, Arcade Fire will take to the stage at Campo Pequeno; Stacey Kent Symphonic performs at the Centro Cultural de Belém on 30 and 31 May, while on 20 May, at the Altice Arena, Roger Waters brings his show to Portugal. These are just some of the many musical shows that will fill the Portuguese cultural agenda.

If you are a fan of the 7th Art, Fantasporto - Porto International Film Festival will once again bring the best of fantasy, horror and science fiction films to the screen at Teatro Rivoli between 26 February and 11 March 2018.

In the Azores, the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series is back on the shores of the Portuguese islands, namely the island of SĂŁo Miguel. After being held in July 2017, spectacular water diving will return to the Azores in 2018, to the islet of Vila Franca do Campo with its 21 and 27 metre high platforms. How long do the divers stay in the air? About 3 seconds, and they reach speeds of 85 km/h!

And after the success and return of the Red Bull Air Race to the city of Porto, the next edition of the event is expected in 2018. The 2017 event had over 850,000 spectators along the banks of the River Douro to watch the races. Still waiting for confirmation and dates ... everyone is hoping that the race will return to Portugal.

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SANTA CLARA PASTRIES ________ RECIPE

Santa Clara pastries are the most well-known convent-made desserts in Coimbra, although they can be tried in other Portuguese cities. The name comes from the Convent where they were first made, that is by the nuns of the Santa Clara Convent in the city of Coimbra, dating back to the 13th century. According to the history of convent-made sweets in Portugal, the egg whites were used to starch fabric and the nuns, not wanting to waste the yolks, used them to make rich desserts, always filled with sugar.

The Santa Clara-a-Velha Convent became even more well-known because Saint Queen Isabel lived there for many years. In 1677, when the Mondego river overflowed its banks and the city suffered from very heavy floods, the convent was abandoned and the nuns moved to a region of higher ground where the Santa Clara-a-Nova Convent is now based. Even today it is dedicated to Saint Queen Isabel, and this is where her tomb is located.

Ingredients for the filling 250g of sugar in the firm-ball stage 150g of ground almond nuts 10 egg yolks 1 whole egg or egg white

Ingredients for the dough 300g of flour 125g of butter 1.5 dl of water

STEP BY STEP PREPARATION 1. Stir the flour very slowly with the butter (without it melting), adding water little by little until a consistent dough is obtained. 2. Let the dough rest for an hour - it can be covered with plastic wrap and left in the fridge. 3. For the filling: heat the sugar with the water until it reaches the firm-ball stage. 4. Add the yolks and the eggs, carefully so that they donâ&#x20AC;şt curdle. Stir continuously. 5. Add the almonds (and if desired, some drops of lemon). 6. Continue stirring until the filling starts to come away from the sides of the pan. 7. When the filling is ready, remove it from the heat and let it cool. 8. Cut the dough into circle shapes. Place the filling in the middle of the circle, then fold the dough over into a half-moon shape. Fold the edges over each other. Seal the pastry with your fingers or with a fork. 9. Bake in the oven for about 30 minutes - or until they become brown. 10. Take out of the oven and leave to cool. 11. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Bon appetit! BON APPETIT!

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