48° North - January 2025 - Digital by 48° North

34 LOCAL CRUISING SKILLS ABROAD 38 EXPERIENCING 'BOAT TIME'

JANUARY 2025

30 HAIDA SAILS

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FEATURES Haida Sails: The Breath of Cedar

Restoring the age-old craft of traditional Haida sail making. By Simon Davies

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Learning Curve

Translating cruising skills honed in the PNW abroad. By Andy Cross

Boat Time

Deep engagement and altered perception on the water. By Alex Zimmerman

COLUMNS Hikes for Boaters: Northern Puget Sound

With winter weather, nearby city walks are a great choice. By Michael Boyd

Casting Off: Slow the Man Down

What happens when friends let friends steer the boat. By David Casey

My Boat: Argonaut II

RACING TYC Winter Vashon

Red Ruby Report: Parting Thoughts

Turkey Bowl

A 103-year-old wooden vessel with rich local history.

The story of a breezy circumnavigation of Vashon Island. Accomplished doublehanders close this international chapter. Great, intergenerational turnout for this festive dinghy event.

ON THE COVER: Historic 73-foot Argonaut II returns to the remote waters where she famously served as a mission ship, and is anchored here in Eucott Bay, British Columbia, near Ocean Falls. Learn more about Argonaut’s past and present in the My Boat column on page 26. Photo by Nicholas Verrochi.

Background photo courtesy of Sean Trew.

CONTENTS

JANUARY 2025

Editor

CHEERS TO THE NEW YEAR, AND THE HARDY AMONG US As we turn the page into 2025, I’m inspired by hardiness. On the waters of the Salish Sea and the Inside Passage, among Pacific Northwest boat-folk near and far, there is so much to be impressed by, to honor, and from which we may all draw motivation, excitement, and encouragement. It could be efficiency, self-sufficiency, genius, wisdom, strength, success, or dedication to a craft—but for me, for 2025, I find myself admiring grit, persistence, and the capacity for happy discomfort and humble drudgery. That’s what makes me pine for my next chance to be off the dock, to channel that spirit of ruggedness and the rewards that come with it. Among businesses, educators, and lifers invested in the growth of any aspect of boating, there is an understandable boatload of focus on the ease, comfort, and delight afforded to anyone engaged in a waterborne activity. Versions of this pastime have been the luxurious leisure hobby of the very rich throughout history; it must, thus, provide unmatched enjoyment? Indeed, sometimes it does! On the other hand, the sea has been the platform and partner that’s created or facilitated some of the wildest, harshest, most inhospitable toil humans have ever experienced. Yikes! But how much of that was really all bad? Especially here in the Pacific Northwest, and especially among those who set off for adventures afloat in every season—a year on the water will deliver its share of each end of this contradictory spectrum. Bliss and struggle, smooth seas and square waves, relaxation and exhaustion, warm breeze and sideways rain, function and failure, pleasure boating and sheer unpleasantness. Attempts to avoid these nautical travails can look like prudent seamanship, yet such efforts are often fruitless in an environment that inevitably leaves us feeling vanishingly small and devoid of control. A person could achieve a high-percentage of predictably agreeable conditions in which to take to the water, and that person would have an extremely limited number of days on their boat. And I think that’s my point. Some of the mariners I look up to most these days are not only capable of going out in conditions ranging from snotty to downright scary; but they accept the likelihood of some uncomfortable trials willingly, competently, gladly. Tell me this isn’t legitimately remarkable? There are people I respect who won’t walk their dog if it’s raining. Just like any other endeavor that is punctuated by intermittent adversity and suffering, I’m certainly not suggesting that everyone enduring heavy times underway is having stupendous fun. They’re not, but they’re also undeterred. Their struggles are met in stride, valuing their own endurance. The matter-of-fact acceptance of challenge and discomfort—as an alternative to bequeathing some storm the determination of your day’s experience, let alone the unpalatable choice between limitation or fantasy if your goal was exclusively easy comfort—is beautiful, noble, desirable, and uplifting. Let me assure you: you don’t need to regularly sail, cruise, or adventure this way to appreciate it. In fact, I don’t count myself among such gritty boaters, and I certainly don’t intend to throw shade at fair weather sailors. Still, I connect with this sturdy resolve all around me, I’m fueled by this embodied ruggedness, I feel some bizarre envy of someone in I’ll see you on the water, already-damp foulies settling down on the rail for an hours-long bash to windward in 25 frigid knots and breeze-against-tide chop. It’s supposed to be fun, but it can be so much more—that’s my wish for the year ahead. What’s empowering you? Joe Cline Managing Editor, 48° North 48º NORTH

48º North

Volume XLIV, Number 6, January 2025 (206) 789-7350 info@48north.com | www.48north.com

Publisher Northwest Maritime Managing Editor Joe Cline joe@48north.com Editor Andy Cross andy@48north.com Designer Rainier Powers rainier@48north.com Advertising Sales Ryan Carson ryan@48north.com Classifieds classads48@48north.com 48° North is published as a project of Northwest Maritime in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery. Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628 48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best! We are not responsible for unsolicited materials. Articles express the author’s thoughts and may not reflect the opinions of the magazine. Reprinting in whole or part is expressly forbidden except by permission from the editor. SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS FOR 2025 $39/Year For The Magazine $100/Year For Premium (perks!) www.48north.com/subscribe for details. Prices vary for international or first class.

Proud members:

JANUARY 2025

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JANUARY 2025

LETTERS

All the Power You Need

Response to Diesel Deep Dive: “Art of the Oil Change” from the December 2024 Issue Dear Joe and Meredith, I always enjoy Meredith Anderson’s column. She does an excellent job of writing about useful subjects related to maintaining one’s diesel engine. For 29 years I’ve done all of the engine maintenance on our Ford Lehman 120 in our 1969 Grand Banks 32 Athena. Meredith’s column is generally the first article I read in 48° North. I have a few additional thoughts to add to her latest column, The Art of the Oil Change. I would welcome her critique of the points I raise. First, as Meredith mentions, it is essential to run your engine prior to pumping out the oil. She did not mention how long to run the engine in order to warm the oil. That, of course, varies depending upon the size of the engine. For our engine, it takes 45 to 60 minutes to adequately warm the oil. For smaller engines, I imagine that running for a shorter time would suffice. Second, a brief discussion of the pros and cons of manual versus electric oil extraction pumps would be useful to readers. Like most things in life, they each have their pros and cons. The manual pump is simple—no electrical leads to attach, and it is generally a smaller pump that is easier to store when not in use. The electrical oil extraction pump is more expensive, and slightly larger, and it is slightly more involved to set up because you have to attach the electrical leads to your battery. It does offer one advantage that I have decided I prefer over a manual pump: once it is running and extracting the oil, I can work on other aspects of the oil change. (Editor’s note: More of David’s message will continue in a 48north.com post in January). Meredith, l look forward to your future articles. And Joe, keep up the good work at 48° North. I have a special attachment to your magazine because my late father, Ed von Wolffersdorff, wrote the Racing Rules column for 48° North for 20 years.

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Best regards,

Access Marine

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Seattle, WA • 206-819-2439 info@betamarineengines.com www.betamarineengines.com

Correction to the Round the County Report, December Issue

Sea Marine

In Stephanie Campbell’s excellent Round the County write up last month, we named the incorrect club that shares the hosting duties with Orcas Island Yacht Club. It should be Friday Harbor Sailing Club (FHSC), not the San Juan Island Sailing Society (an entity that doesn’t exist). We got a kind note from the Commodore of FHSC, saying “I wanted to point out that the co-sponsors of the race are Orcas Island Yacht Club and Friday Harbor Sailing Club. As far as I know, there is no ‘San Juan Sailing Society’ as stated in the article. Our club provides the Roche Harbor committee boat; the beer, wine, and setup for the Dock (Tent) Party on Saturday night; and about a dozen volunteers to make it all happen in Roche Harbor.” Apologies for this error, and thank you for your contributions, volunteers and members of FHSC! 48º NORTH

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JANUARY 2025

News from Northwest Maritime 48° North has been published by the nonprofit Northwest Maritime since 2018. We are continually amazed and inspired by the important work of our colleagues and organization, and dedicate this page to sharing more about these activities with you.

MHS CAREER EXPO

TAKING THE CLASSROOM AFLOAT: STUDENTS LEARN ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENTAL AND SOCIAL HISTORY OF THE DUWAMISH RIVER AS WELL AS VESSEL OPERATIONS Maritime High School 9th grade School students attended the Pacific students start their maritime education Marine Expo at Lumen Field Event in the fall with weekly trips on board the Center in Seattle. In addition to having Devlin wooden work catamaran, Admiral an opportunity to meet vendors, Jack, in the Duwamish River. The fall students were invited to participate program involves learning about vessel in the annual Coastal Challenge, operations; including knot tying, line sponsored by the Port of Seattle. handling, engine checks, and navigation. The Coastal Challenge tests They also test the quality of the river competitors in three skills; fastest water; collecting data on temperature, blindfolded bowline, net mending, pH, dissolved oxygen, turbidity and and line splicing. The winner of each nitrates throughout the quarter. round wins a cash prize, and advances All of this work culminated with river to the final round. In the final round, tours aboard Admiral Jack in November, participants race to be the first to presented by the students to family and properly put on a survival suit. This community members. Students worked year, Maritime High School had two in small groups preparing scripts and students compete, representing the demonstrations of what they learned 10th and 12th grades, and the winner about the boat and the environmental was Alex Jackson (MHS class of 2025)! and social history of the river. They won the fastest blindfolded Tour participants came away impressed bowline trial, and went on to victory with the skills demonstrated by this as the fastest of three competitors to cohort, and the students with hands-on put on a survival suit! Alex won $550 experience they will build on for the rest and the title of Coastal Challenge of their time at MHS. Champion! On November 21st, Maritime High » maritime.highlineschools.org

Northwest Maritime 48º NORTH

Wooden Boat Festival

RACE TO ALASKA

JANUARY 11, 10 A.M. - 2 P.M. Maritime High School will host its 2nd annual Maritime Career Expo on January 11th at Highline High School. This is a special opportunity for students to connect with institutions and businesses, reinforcing their future as the next generation of maritime professionals. An impressive array of professional entities will be in attendance—from groups providing the next steps in education like University of Washington, Seattle Maritime Academy, Highline College, and Maritime Institute; to others offering rewarding careers in the maritime field right away, like Washington State Ferries, Triton Marine Construction, Maersk Broker, and Global Diving and Salvage; among many others. Current students, prospective students, and any families interested in maritime careers should attend. Attendees can expect to talk with pros, connect with those offering maritime opportunities in our region, and enjoy hands-on activities. » maritime.highlineschools.org

EVENTS & CLASSES HANDS-ON SHIP SIMULATOR TOURS Jan 11 | 10:30 AM - 2:30 PM Free and first come first serve | All ages TIDES & CURRENTS IN THE SALISH SEA Jan 14-15 | 6:30 PM - 8 PM, Online $95 non-member, $86 member NO IMPACT DOCKING – ONLINE Jan 28-29 | 6:30 PM - 8 PM $95 non-member, $86 member INTRO TO FISHING THE PNW, TWO-PART Feb 8, 22 | 10 AM - 1 PM $150 non-member, $135 member

For more details, visit: » www.nwmaritime.org/events

48° North

Swan Hotel JANUARY 2025

Seattle Yachts Sailing Academy American Sailing Association (ASA) Certified Sailing School Based out of beautiful Anacortes, Washington, we offer a complete range of ASA courses from Basic Keelboat 101 through Advanced Coastal Cruising 106, Cruising Catamaran 114, Docking Endorsement 118, and private instruction. Call us now to register for our spring 2025 ASA IQC - Instructor Qualification Clinic! Space available in our ASA 201, 202, 203, 204, 205, 206 and 218 clinics. www.sailtime.com/location/anacortes/sailing-school Pay online for courses through the 2025 season. Book Now! Courses are filling up fast! Call us at 206-351-8661 if you want to talk about your sailing future! 719 28th Street Anacortes, Washington 206-351-8661

48º NORTH

JANUARY 2025

low tides » News & Events

SEATTLE BOAT SHOW ADDS MORE SEMINARS, PANELS, AND NEW TOPICS FOR 2025 Boating enthusiasts have more to explore than ever at the 2025 Seattle Boat Show, now featuring 150 free seminars on boating and fishing, up from 125 in 2024. More in-depth boating courses for a fee are also available through Boat Show University. This year’s show promises to be a must-visit event, whether you’re looking to deepen your skills, explore the latest innovations, or shop for the boat of your dreams from among the hundreds on display. From January 31 through February 8, join your fellow boaters indoors at Lumen Field Event Center or on the water at the Port of Seattle’s Bell Harbor Marina. This year’s new seminars include essential skills and exciting adventures. Here’s a sneak peek: • Telehealth to the Rescue: Solutions for Mariners • Experience the Magic of Haida Gwaii • Crossing Oceans: Gear & Guidance • Navigating Rivers by Drift Boat • How Electric Can Beat Gas for Power, Range, and Cost • Fishing for Coho in Freshwater • Modern Crew Overboard Rescue • Around the America’s in 2025 -2026: A 14-Month Expedition Connecting Classrooms to the Americas • Transiting the Ballard Locks: Know Before You Go • How to Sail to New Zealand & Back: 5 Easy Steps • And much more… 48º NORTH

Along with the new seminars, there are also new panel discussions. The popular 2-hour panels spark lively conversations and provide expert advice and a range of viewpoints. For 2025, they include: • Insider’s Guide to Buying Your Next Boat • Expert Fishing Panel: Tips and Tactics from the Locals • NW Women in Boating • Becoming a Better Sailor • Why a New Generation Got into the Business of Boats For those looking for more in-depth learning, Boat Show University covers advanced cruising topics for the Pacific Northwest cruiser. Attendees can choose between 2-hour and 6-hour classes on a range of technical and advanced topics such as offshore cruising, electrical system design, marine weather for the go or no-go decision, first-aid at sea, all the key cruising areas north of Seattle and more. Classes fill up quickly every year, so interested parties are encouraged to look at the schedule and sign up early. BSU classes require a separate ticket, available online only, and include show admission and a Tunnel Club drink coupon for one of three BSU receptions in the Tunnel Club. Check out the full schedule of seminars and BSU classes. It is sortable by keywords, seminar and class descriptions, and presenters. » www.SeattleBoatShow.com

JANUARY 2025

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seventhwavemarine@olypen.com JANUARY 2025

low tides » News & Events CHANGES COMING TO SOUTHERN STRAITS RACE

ARTFUL SAILOR ANNOUNCES MARCH WORKSHOPS

The 55 annual Southern Straits Race is scheduled for April 18-20, 2025, and the West Vancouver Yacht Club (WVYC) is looking forward to welcoming previous entrants and newcomers wanting to take on the challenge. WVYC is working on a number of improvements to accommodate a broader range of sailors with differing interests and experience levels. This includes a 100-mile Sister’s Islets Course for the ORC fleet, which will be one of the qualifying races for the 2025 Van Isle 360 Race; a 55-mile Entrance Island Course for PHRF divisions; a 36-mile Halibut Bank (Inshore) Course for PHRF divisions, which will also include doublehanded scoring and awards; and a virtual finish line for all courses using YellowBrick tracker functionality. Southern Straits Race is typically the first overnight race of the season and allows sailors to reconnect with old friends from Vancouver, Vancouver Island, and Washington state, most of whom we haven’t seen since the previous race season. The traditional pre-race dinner, skippers meeting, and weather briefing at the clubhouse on Thursday night is always a reunion of sorts, filled with laughter and friendly banter as we recount all of those Straits Race adventures of the past. Experiencing the incredible beauty of the British Columbia coast has always been a major draw of the Southern Straits Race and WVYC looks forward forward to hosting boats in the Pacific Northwest on Easter weekend. » www.wvyc.ca

Port Townsend’s Artful Sailor is putting on workshops for those interested in hand and machine sewing techniques.

SEWING MACHINE WORKSHOP: MARCH 1, 2025 Back by popular demand, this one-day, basic course is for machine-oriented Stitchmates who want to learn how to put an older machine to use both onboard and ashore, opening the door for future sail and canvas work. PALM 'N' NEEDLE HANDSEWING SKILLS: MARCH 15, 2025 This full-day workshop, in which students make a sailmaker's apron, provides the basics of palm and needle canvas work. MAKE A TRADITIONAL SAILOR'S HAMMOCK: MARCH 28-30, 2025 Limited to eight Stitchmates, this three-day class is great for students who have taken the handsewing skills workshop, and are well prepared for the techniques and rigors of making an 84-inch by 44-inch sailor's hammock. The Artful Sailor and their neighbor, the Swan Hotel, are collaborating so hammock workshop participants can stay next door and get a 10% discount on lodging (must be for two nights). Contact the Swan directly (frontdesk@theswanhotel.com) and be sure to mention that you are registered for the workshop. » www.theartfulsailor.com

low tides » In the Biz...

NMTA AWARDS $15,500 IN GROW BOATING GRANTS Blue and Gold Association of University of Washington Navy ROTC: To support UW ROTC boating programs, such as the Sail Training Program, not funded by the Navy. Campus Life: To facilitate summer boating days for at-risk and underserved youth, including tubing and wakeboarding. Footloose Sailing Association: To provide sailing opportunities for individuals with disabilities. Friends of Bainbridge Island High School Sailing: To sponsor sailors from low-income families. Gig Harbor Junior Sailing: To fund 2025 sailing scholarships. Renton Sailing Center: To purchase 24 new lifejackets. Sail Kingston Cove: To provide sailing and water safety instruction for youth through high school. Sail Sand Point: To offer full scholarships for low-income youth or youth from underserved communities. SEASTR: To empower women through boating programs and foster interest in maritime activities. Sisters in Action Sports: To expand SAS Wake/Surf Days in 2025 for women and girls. Washington Yacht Club: To host a spring sailing event introducing underrepresented students to the sport. » www.nmta.net

The Northwest Marine Trade Association (NMTA) is proud to announce that its Grow Boating Committee has awarded $15,500 in grants to 14 organizations dedicated to improving boating access and experiences in the Pacific Northwest. Funded through space rental fees from the Seattle Boat Show, NMTA’s Grow Boating program has provided over $2 million in grants and promotion since 2003, supporting initiatives that promote boating throughout the region. In the past nine years, 70 organizations have benefited from this funding. “The Grow Boating grant program exemplifies NMTA’s commitment to making boating more accessible and inclusive,” said George Harris, NMTA president and CEO. “We’re proud to support these remarkable organizations, helping them inspire new generations of boaters and share the joy of being on the water.” These grants enable programs that reach underserved communities, support adaptive and youth boating initiatives, and improve critical infrastructure. The grant recipients are: Anacortes Waterfront Alliance: To provide free community access to kayaks, paddleboards, rowboats, and sailboats. Angling 4 Autism Society: To offer fishing experiences for individuals and families with autism and/or neurodiversities. Bellingham Sailing Foundation: To assist with the construction of a new boating ramp at Squalicum Harbor Marina. 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2025

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JANUARY 2025

CROSSWORD AND TRIVIA

DID YOU KNOW?

by Bryan Henry

Sea snakes are preyed upon by sharks and sea eagles.

Eels can tie their bodies into a knot and pull their head back through the knot by using the sides of it to brace against struggling prey.

The Portuguese man-of-war uses its surface float to travel by wind propulsion. Most orcas feed on a large variety of prey that includes fish, squid, sharks and rays, sea turtles, penguins, sea lions, dolphins and even other whales; but the Southern Resident orcas are more selective eaters with a diet primarily of Chinook salmon.

ACROSS

DOWN

1 2 3 4

Sailor’s challenging voyage, 3 words 9 Historical period 10 Depth of the boat 11 Touching the bottom in water too shallow for its draft 13 Bolt’s partner 14 It’s when the sea recedes from the shore 16 Ship’s rear section 18 Bo’s’n’s quarters, abbr. 20 Opening on the deck 23 See 4 down 24 Describing winds that are from the predominant direction for a place or season 28 Naval flags 30 Trials 32 Raise 33 Right side of a vessel 34 Get on in years

Some sharks feed exclusively on smaller sharks, including members of their own species.

Boat’s steering device It’s flag has stars and stripes Short, simple sailing songs Stop the boat’s forward motion so it does not have to be steered, goes with 23 across 5 Fraction of a joule 6 Cautions about danger 7 Planned path of a voyage 8 Flop 12 Published 15 It supports the mainsail 17 Indicating a large, unspecified number 19 Sheltered side of the vessel 20 Raised upward 21 Adjust a sail to make it more effective 22 Guides and directs 25 Panoramic view 26 Canadian peninsula along the Saint Lawrence river 27 On the ocean 29 Chitchat 31 Harbor craft

» See solution on page 51 48º NORTH

Some species of sea snakes give birth at sea; others come ashore to lay eggs. All eat from the sea: fish, eels and shrimp mostly.

Loggerhead sea turtles love spiny lobsters and frequently dismantle wooden lobster traps to get them. Loggerhead sea turtles and eagle rays are the only two species known to crush the thick shells of adult queen conchs. In humpback whales, while females produce other calls, only the males sing songs, which is a complex series of calls with a fixed structure. Marine mammals such as whales, dolphins, seals, and sea lions don’t usually form lifelong monogamous pairs and are quite promiscuous. The tusks of narwhals were sold as “unicorn horns” in the Middle Ages, commanding outlandish prices. A narwhal’s tusk can measure 10 feet in length, a circumference of eight inches at the base, and weigh over 20 pounds. The blue whale is about 100 million times as large as the krill it eats. Brain coral may grow to a diameter of eight feet. Lobsters, crabs, octopus, skipjack tuna and many other marine species are cannibalistic.

JANUARY 2025

low tides » Products News » GARMIN inREACH MESSENGER PLUS Expanding on their range of satellite communicator devices, Garmin recently released their new inReach Messenger Plus. An easy way to keep in touch with friends and family beyond cell service, the Messenger Plus allows you to share voice recordings, photos, and group messages via the Garmin Messenger app. Once you choose your subscription plan, you can explore remote places with peace of mind knowing you can trigger an interactive SOS message anytime with your GPS coordinates to Garmin Response, a 24/7-staffed coordination center for help in an emergency. Instead of relying on tower-based cell phone coverage, the messages are sent through the 100% global Iridium satellite network. You can also share GPS location and your route anytime with live tracking, and embed your GPS coordinates with your texts, photos, or voice messages. The durable design withstands extreme temperatures and the battery lasts for weeks. Price: $499.99 » www.garmin.com

» TIDES WINCH SEAT Proudly made in Norway, the newly updated Tides Winch Seat might be your favorite upgrade to your boat’s cockpit. This innovative seat effortlessly transforms any idle winch into a prime spot for relaxation to sit and read a book, converse with friends, or take in the beauty of your favorite anchorage. Crafted with durable fiberglass-reinforced plastic, the design is significantly lighter and more affordable than its predecessor, yet maintains the same features. Closed-cell EVA foam padding and a premium Agora® fabric cover offer superior comfort and water, stain, mold, fade, and UV resistance. Each seat includes a convenient GOTS-certified organic cotton dust bag for easy storage. The 316 stainless steel mounting bracket fits most standard size winches. Price: $249 » www.tidesnorway.com

» JL AUDIO MEDIAMASTER 55 Looking to enhance the onboard listening experience, JL Audio’s MediaMaster 55 is a compact marine source unit engineered to deliver high-fidelity sound and advanced audio features for your boat. Constructed with a tough, water-resistant design, this single-chassis receiver features a bright 2.8-inch full-color display and an intuitive interface with backlit controls for easy operation, day or night. A variety of source and media options are available including global radio tuners, a USB input, analog AUX input, and streaming audio capabilities courtesy of Bluetooth wireless. Audio output options include a robust four-channel onboard amplifier and nine channels of audiophile-quality preamp outputs from three separate audio zones. Each zone includes an array of flexible audio options and is controlled by a configurable master volume knob for quick, on-the-fly adjustments, allowing complete command over different areas of your boat. The unit also has certified NMEA 2000® network connectivity, making it an ideal companion for use with your Garmin, Lowrance, Raymarine, or Simrad multifunction display. Price: $399.99 » www.jlaudio.com 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2025

HIKES FOR BOATERS

WINTER WALKS OF NORTHERN PUGET SOUND by Michael Boyd Photos by Karen Johnson

uring the fall, winter, and spring, like most boaters in our area, we stay fairly close to home. Sometimes that means not leaving the slip. Other times, it could include traveling to a nearby urban area where we can stay at a guest dock and take in the local sights. It’s never crowded, and there’s still no shortage of winter wonders on the water and when exploring on foot. Here are some of our favorite local destinations for a town walk and possibly a hike through the woods, weather permitting. THE TOWN OF BAINBRIDGE ISLAND Due west of Seattle, Eagle Harbor has a public dock, several private marinas, yacht club outstations, and room to anchor. We’ve been here many times over the years and usually try for the public dock first before checking out other nearby options. Wherever you park your boat, it’s only a short walk to town and the amenities of an urban setting. In addition to shopping of all kinds, we like the many restaurants and the wonderful art museum. If it isn’t raining, we sometimes pick up the trails west of town that join some small parks and short roads leading out toward the head of Eagle Harbor. A trail east of town leads to views of Puget Sound. A popular path goes through park land starting from the road near the ferry dock, going to the public dock, and continuing to marinas and waterfront restaurants. Altogether

One of Bainbridge Island's great waterfront restaurants.

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JANUARY 2025

it’s a rewarding urban destination. POULSBO The town of Poulsbo, on Liberty Bay, is an ever-popular destination for Seattle area boaters. To get there from Puget Sound, you need to travel to the west side of Bainbridge Island through either Rich Passage on the south or Agate Passage on the north. Both of these passages can have currents up to 5 knots so, having a slower vessel, we always plan our trips taking that into account. Liberty Bay is large and shallow; anchoring is so easy that it’s a great place to go if you want to practice your technique. And there is a sizable public dock, being expanded this year, with great access to the town’s shops and restaurants. Their fuel dock often seems to have some of the best prices in the area, but don’t quote me on that. The town prides itself on its Norwegian heritage and the Sons of Norway Hall is right on the water near the marina. On some Saturday nights, you can hear their music across the bay. There are a number of nice restaurants and a very popular bakery in the center of town that always seems to draw a crowd. Along the waterfront is a boardwalk, then trail, then sidewalk that leads to another park at the head of the bay. On the way into Liberty Bay you will pass the US Naval Undersea Warfare Center—stay well off their site—then

the town of Keyport public dock. From that dock it is only a short walk inland to the US Naval Undersea Museum, which is open to the public and should be fascinating to any boater. We either park our boat temporarily at the public dock or dinghy over from Poulsbo and thoroughly enjoy spending an afternoon there. It’s definitely worth more than one visit. PORT GAMBLE Visiting Port Gamble by boat means first avoiding the shallow waters near the entrance by carefully navigating the narrow channel marked with buoys. At one time, we would anchor in Port Gamble Bay close to town, go ashore at the old mill and walk to town. Then the old mill became a closed superfund site and it was hard to get to town due to the steep bluffs everywhere except the mill. But now it’s cleaned up and there is easy access from the anchorage in the nearby bay. This historic former company town is a small group of well-kept buildings that includes Port Gamble General Store and Cafe with its wonderful collection of seashells in glass cases; it’s also a good place to get an ice cream cone on a warm day. If it’s a Saturday in the summer, there might even be a wedding. We were here once for a classic car show. Port Gamble is a popular destination by land as well as sea.

The main attraction for us is the vast network of hiking and mountain biking trails. Several trails start at a grassy field just south of town, which is also a flying site for remote control airplane enthusiasts. The trails extend many miles to the south through a forest area, but we have hiked only a small portion of them. We have seen various trail maps, including one posted in town, but none of them have been particularly accurate or complete. The last time we were there we followed a trail that my map showed was a shortcut back to town. It actually ended at a fence with cows on the other side. We had to backtrack. These little setbacks are all part of the game. Or so I told the friends with us who, up to that point, had thought I knew where I was going. PORT TOWNSEND Port Townsend is a town with a maritime history stretching back to the nineteenth century and much of that history is on display for visitors. We love strolling the town and looking at the Victorian buildings, sampling the shops to be found there, and enjoying live music. In the past, we have anchored in front of town but can’t recommend it as the pleasure boat and ferry traffic keeps the water pretty choppy even in calm weather. In addition to a public dock, there are two marinas; Point Hudson is closer

A small part of the very large shell collection at the Port Gamble General Store.

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JANUARY 2025

Point Wilson light from a Fort Worden trail.

to town but Boat Haven is closer to the boatyard where older wooden vessels are often being repaired or restored; it’s usually a worthwhile visit if you love wooden boats. The best hiking opportunities are just north of town. Combinations of trails and roads around Fort Worden State Park that go to both the Point Wilson light and North Beach, with its beautiful rugged beach exposed to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We usually plan our itinerary based on the weather but are always tired after a day of walking in and around Port Townsend. LA CONNER La Conner is located on the Swinomish Channel, which joins Skagit Bay and

Padilla Bay near Anacortes. It’s a boating destination with challenges. First off, it’s a long way from Seattle and, because of this, I expect many boaters only visit La Conner on their way to or from the San Juan Islands. Secondly, the Swinomish Channel is a shallow and narrow waterway requiring careful piloting, even with the many lighted buoys and beacons. Thirdly, there can be a substantial current that can make for challenging docking. In spite of those complications, La Conner also makes a fabulous destination anytime of the year, and the comparatively small waterway can make it a nice option in rougher winter weather. There is a small public dock right in town, in the current, but we usually head for the La Conner Marina’s South Basin

guest dock a few blocks north of town. The dock is long and the inside has much less current than the outside, so we usually try to find space there. It lowers our docking stress considerably. The marina is close to town, and the town itself is only a few blocks long, so the amount of walking is not great. But there is lots to see and do here. We enjoy the Museum of Northwest Art, which has an interesting museum store as well. A number of shops have high quality crafts. My personal favorite is one selling fine woodworking. I always stop in to get ideas of what I might be able to make if I were actually a better woodworker (and for Karen to get ideas of what my next project should be). And there are lots of restaurant choices for eating out, including a nice park at the east end of the Rainbow Bridge for having a picnic. We’ve always enjoyed our visits here. Whether you’re braving bigger cruises and longer hikes than we typically undertake in the winter months, or just untying for a daytime or weekend jaunt, these stopovers give you a terrific chance to stretch your legs and experience both the natural wonders near Puget Sound’s seaside towns and the wonders of civilization unique to each one. Michael and Karen have been cruising the Salish Sea and beyond for more than 20 years, hiking every chance they get. For more resources for hikers visit their website at https://mvmischief.com/library/

La Conner downtown waterfront.

Tying up at the guest dock in La Conner. 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2025

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CASTING OFF

SLOW THE MAN DOWN WHAT HAPPENS WHEN FRIENDS LET FRIENDS STEER THE BOAT

The author's visiting friends out for a sail on a beautiful day in the PNW.

by David Casey

“

all off a little. Head to starboard. To the right, that is. But move the tiller to the left. A little more. Too much!” I caught myself sounding a little irritated with our guests aboard Ariel, our modest 28-foot Columbia sailboat during an afternoon sail last fall. You might think that piloting a vessel whose top speed is barely 6 knots might teach me to slow down, calm down, or at the very least, sit down. But I’ve yet to find success in any of those “down” ventures. Having now owned Ariel for about three years, I feel that my sailing chops are adequate, but far from excellent. It seems like the more that I learn, the more I realize how little I know. And because my wife, Laura, and I are fairly new to sailing, we find ourselves learning and refining our skills together. But we probably sail with other folks aboard as often as we’re on the water with just the two of us, and there are at least as many lessons for us with this dynamic. On that particular day last September when my frustration raised to a momentarily urgent tenor, the passengers happened to be good friends who were visiting from out of town—my high school buddy, Murph, and his wife, Lisa. After maneuvering Ariel out of the harbor, I quickly handed over the helming duties to Lisa, who was excited to pilot the boat in the waters of Puget Sound. The experience brought back wonderful memories of her childhood in Monterey, ones that I feared I was about to trample on with my impatience. Lisa, along with her siblings and dad, spent time on the central California bay in a small sailboat. Her experience left her comfortable and confident on the water, but unaccustomed to the nuances of Ariel and the demands of an unsteady wind, making it a challenge to maintain a predetermined course, especially with a fickle captain like myself. For Murph, anytime on the water is a joy. During the afternoon sail, he recalled the one or two adventures he and I had aboard my dad’s Catalina 36, when the two of us had just graduated from high school. Most of his time since then has been under the water, scuba diving In the kelp forests off the coast of northern California, or exploring coral reefs in the crystal blue waters of the South Pacific. But on that recent autumn day here in the Pacific Northwest, he was eager and willing to learn more about 48º NORTH

sail trim and steering to a course. As is the usual case when I’m sailing Ariel with just Laura or guests, I’m constantly monitoring the lines to adjust the sails, calling out orders to alter the tension of the main or jib, hoping not to sound too complicated. I often give our guests a brief lesson in sailing parlance, explaining the differences between ropes and lines, and halyards and sheets, but as a retired teacher, I know that my brief explanations may fall short of their intentions. When I told Murph to tighten the main sheet and saw his hesitation, I corrected myself, realizing that my incomplete lesson on rope categorization was much too fast. “Oh, sorry.” I responded. “I mean the lines. No wait, I mean the ropes. The white rope with the red stripe running through it that leads to the back of the boom.” Like other endeavors, hobbies, and sports, sailing’s special lexicon is one that can cause confusion for landlubbers. By the time that I finished reviewing the vocabulary lesson,

JANUARY 2025

Ariel glides along on a light breeze in Commencement Bay.

Looking north towards Vashon Island with the hope of some wind.

to explain. “The boat wants to head into the wind naturally, so you need to constantly fight it with an opposite tiller.” Lisa followed my instructions, but that time with not as much conviviality, and maybe even a glimmer of mutiny brewing in her eyes. While she was determined to successfully pilot the boat, I saw her frustration with me mounting. Laura is well aware of my Ahab-like desire to force the easygoing Ariel to her top speed given the conditions, and looked at me with a critical glare-stare that I picked up on. I reminded myself that a day on the water is not about speed, especially in our Columbia 28, with passengers aboard. Some sailboats are not meant for speed, I reminded myself. They are designed with displacement hulls, essentially meaning

the wind had shifted, negating my instructions and forcing us to change tack, literally. I then needed to provide a new set of directions, which involved much more than merely adjusting the sheets. But I’m OK, I told myself. “Who cares where we end up or how fast we go? It’s a beautiful day. We’re with great friends who are in awe of the amazing vistas of the Pacific Northwest.” I did a mental check to slow down and enjoy the splendor as well. And then I saw that the jib was back-winding. “Fall off, Lisa. Boat to the left, tiller to the right.” Ever cheerful, Lisa responded with an “Aye, aye, captain.” Thirty seconds later, Ariel was heading into the wind again. “Lisa, fall off,” I said with a bit more impatience this time. I tried

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Time on a boat with friends is always fun, even when the urge to over-coach is strong.

that they float because they displace a volume of water that weighs the same as the vessel. Planing hulls are found on powerboats and racing sailboats, usually, and are designed to “lift” the boat onto the surface of the water, thereby reducing drag and resistance through the water. When Laura and I were looking for a boat, we didn’t even consider a powerboat. Now I’m not so sure about our decision. The downside of a sailboat’s displacement hull, if you’re looking for speed, that is, lies in the limited velocity that can be achieved. To simplify the physics, since the hull of the boat sits down in the water, its movement creates a wake, or wave, in which the boat sits. Rising out of this trough requires a tremendous amount of energy or propulsion, one which our embarrassingly small four-stroke outboard gas engine does not possess. But I’m not interested in combustion engines, anyway. I want to push Ariel as fast as she can go with just wind power, I tell myself, “What that means is finely tuning the jib and mainsail so that the wind flows across their surfaces at just the right angle.” It also means that I’m a little maniacal about sail adjustment. And on a mid-sized sailboat, I know there are a lot of adjustments, and ones which I have yet to really understand. The sheets can pull the sail downward, inward, or backward. The traveler adjusts the boom’s angle to the wind and the outhaul contributes to sail shape by applying tension or slack to the foot. And then there’s 48º NORTH

the boom vang, Cunningham, and backstay, which I’ve yet to tackle with confidence. But the bottom line is, no matter what I do, 6 knots is the maximum speed that I’ll get from our tired little sloop. And moving at 6 knots on an upwind point of sail means that she’ll be heeled over at about 20 degrees—a rather uncomfortable angle for guests and ourselves alike. I’m not sure where I got my need for speed on the water. I’ve never owned a fast car or plane. In fact, I’ve spent the last decade or so trying to slow down, particularly in my approach to work and hobbies. With Murph’s enthusiasm aboard, however, I wanted to provide a good show, but still maintain a balance between relaxation and excitement. While Lisa was temporarily managing to keep the sails full and the boat on course, I took a moment to look at Mt. Rainier in the distance. Its majesty slowed me down just enough to let the boat underperform. And even beyond, it allowed me to truly not care that Ariel’s speed was less than her potential given the current conditions. Besides, another reprimand of Lisa at the helm, while now almost comical in its delivery, could have dampened the mood of what had been a pleasant day on the water. As the wind and waves picked up a bit, my mind continued to wander. I thought about another hobby of mine, born from my experiences as a carpenter. When I recalled my shift to guitar making from general construction about 10 years ago, I realized that the biggest thing that luthiery and carpentry have in common is their ‘ry’ ending. Making a guitar is more akin to surgery than sawing, with tolerances for measurements sometimes in the thousands of an inch. I wondered how sailing fits in. On the one hand, some sail positions have large tolerances, like many measurements in carpentry. Pulling in the jib sheet a few inches has only marginal effect on overall sailing performance. On the other hand, like fine, detailed woodworking, the process and journey can be more enjoyable than the resulting destination. Maybe making small adjustments adds to the pleasure of the experience, especailly as one’s understanding deepens enough to appreciate the variations in the outcome of such miniscule tweaks of sail trim. I snapped out of my daydream, but with a new perspective. Ariel was heading into the wind again. But this time, instead of telling Lisa to fall off yet again, I told everyone to get ready to move the sails to the other side of the boat. Murph tightened the main sheet. Laura readied the windward winch for the jib sheet, and I told Lisa to head into the wind and “keep ‘er going! A little more… a little more… OK! Tack!” And for a brief instant, I thought that maybe I could, too. David Casey is a retired math teacher and semiprofessional woodworker and bass player. He plans on using his retirement to build a small sailboat and a kayak, and to explore the waters of southern Puget Sound.

JANUARY 2025

TODAY!

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June 28

WA360.org

360 MILES OF ENGINELESS, UNSUPPORTED BOAT RACING CIRCLING PUGET SOUND 25

JANUARY 2025

MY BOAT

ARGONAUT II W

hether it’s potential new owners, hard core boat geeks, or casual passers-by, unique boats tend to have a way of drawing people to them. To this end, Argonaut II is a classic example. A lifelong sailor and transplant from the east coast to Seattle, Nicholas Verrochi was captivated by the 73-foot wooden vessel that sat at the end of the dock at Stimson Marina in Salmon Bay. “I am always looking at used boats on Craigslist, and regularly find undervalued boats that I fix up, play around with, and sell to fund the next one,” he said. “For six months, I saw Argonaut II for sale and loved clicking through the photos, but never put any mind to purchasing an old boat of that size... or a motorboat. After learning more about the strong liveaboard community in Seattle, the idea popped into my head to take on a project like Argonaut II, turn it into a small charter business, and use the income to fund a restoration. Meanwhile, I could work remotely from places like the San Juan Islands and do weekend trips up and down Puget Sound.” He took the plunge and purchased Argonaut II in 2021, and has since cruised thousands of miles up and down the Inside Passage. Thus, the tale of distinctive boats captivating people continues, as does the unique and storied history of Argonaut II.

WHAT IS YOUR BACKGROUND IN BOATING? I have always been a sailor, and grew up in community sailing programs outside of Boston, Massachusetts. In college, I raced for the University of Delaware and afterwards co-owned and operated a summer boating camp, as well as a sailboat and kayak rental business with 10 locations across New England and Washington, DC. I learned to love wooden boats through sailing in Maine, and acquired my first wooden boat, a 14foot Whitehall rowboat, in 2012. When I moved to Seattle in March 2020, I purchased a 1948 Kettenberg PC 32 sailboat, Orion, and sailed Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands. Of course, I fell in love with cruising in the Pacific Northwest. This led me to search for a place to live by the water in Seattle, which is where I found Argonaut II and fell in love with her rich history. 48º NORTH

TELL US MORE ABOUT ARGONAUT II AND ITS PAST LIVES. This boat is one of the most historic vessels in the Pacific Northwest. For 103 years, it has lived many lives as a corporate yacht, commercial tugboat, and private liveaboard; but most famously, it was a mission boat that intimately touched the lives of thousands of people each year. Argonaut II was designed by Edson B. Schock and built by W.R. Menchions Shipyard in Coal Harbour, Vancouver, British Columbia in 1922. She is 73 feet in length overall (61 feet at the waterline) and weighs 54 tons. Originally, she was commissioned as a private yacht for Sheldon Brooks (1878 - 1946) who christened the boat Greta M after his wife, Greta Hutchinson MacDonald. The boat then served as a corporate yacht for the Powell River Company, taking executives to and from the remote

logging operations up the coastline of British Columbia, or entertaining corporate guests, family, and friends for pleasure cruises. Greta M was powered by a large threecylinder Fairbanks Morse marine diesel engine and operated by a crew of three, who stayed forward of the engine room in crew quarters below the pilot house. The space aft of the engine room includes the galley, originally heated with a diesel stove, a luxurious aft salon with a wood-fired stove, and an aft state room with a separate head and bunks for two guests. Including fold-up bunks in the salon, there are nine beds that accommodate 12 people on board. In 1937, the United Church of Canada purchased the boat and renamed her Thomas Crosby IV after a famous missionary from the 19th century—the boat became the fourth in a series of five boats that served the United Church up JANUARY 2025

and down the remote coastline of British Columbia. The church performed some major upgrades to the boat, including the installation of a large hydraulic windlass on the bow, and updated the aft salon and state room with beautiful stained glass windows, refrigeration, and benches that chained to the ceilings to create additional bunks. The boat was repowered in 1940 with an air-start Gardner 6L3 marine diesel engine complete with a Gardner reduction gear. The engine now has somewhere between 120,000 and 150,000 hours on it, and still runs quite efficiently burning only 2.2 gallons per hour with a cruising speed of 8.2 knots. I recently learned that the boat was historically run at 9 knots, and am currently working on finding ways to gain back that efficiency by rebuilding the fuel injectors or adjusting the timing of the cylinders. As a mission boat, the Thomas Crosby IV was based out of Ocean Falls and served more than 50 ports of call, covering the northern half of the British Columbia coast. These included 18 lighthouses, remote settlements, canneries, logging operations, and First Nations communities as far as Smith Inlet to the south and Lowe Inlet to the north. Every six weeks, the boat would perform two trips—one to the north, the other to the south, stopping in Ocean Falls to resupply. Run by an engineer, a deckhand, and a minister and his wife, the United Church operated the boat for

50 weeks per year, averaging 1,200 miles each month. Thomas Crosby IV was operated by several significant historical figures, including the Reverend Peter Reginald Kelly (1885-1966) who was a prominent member of the Haida First Nation and an Indigenous rights activist. Kelly served as part of the Native Brotherhood in the 1930s and was a key figure in the consultations in the 1940s that led to revisions of the Indian Act. He was the first college-educated Haida Chief who was ordained into the United Church and served as a minister aboard the Thomas Crosby III and Thomas Crosby IV. Another prominent and controversial figure who occasionally operated the boat was Dr. George Darby of the R.W. Large Memorial Hospital in the Heiltsuk First Nation community of Bella Bella, the longest-standing leader of the hospital of 45 years. The hospital was established to serve primarily the Heiltsuk Nation, and Dr. Darby is known for the treatment of tuberculosis amongst First Nations and other coastal communities. Darby also played a significant role in the mission of the United Church, and there are two sides to this story with some darker histories of treatment of the very people he was there to serve. What has been interesting to learn in my own journeys retracing the history of this boat—as a non-Canadian outsider who is new to the history and culture of the Pacific Northwest—is that the two sides

Argonaut's pilothouse with the original ship's wheel, Wood Freeman autopilot, and mechanical throttle and reduction gear. 48º NORTH

of the stories were split across different demographics than I imagined. Stories from both First Nations elders and former Canadian loggers, fishermen, or coastal community members reflected fondly over this time, citing the community and services the boat would render to remote villages who seldom received visits from anybody else. When engaging with the younger generations, I’ve been met with hesitancy and a more regretful conversation around the history of the United Church which, in conjunction with the Canadian government, actively suppressed the rich culture of First Nations communities. As it stands now, Dr. Darby’s name and the church mission are being removed from names of public buildings and historical sites. In 1966, the United Church sold Thomas Crosby IV to Blackmore Marine Services Ltd. out of Vancouver, British Columbia, where she was renamed Argonaut II and saw quite a rapid decline while being operated commercially as a tugboat. In 1971, a man named Julian Matson purchased the boat and performed a great deal of restoration work and maintenance out of Boat Harbour on Vancouver Island, thus setting Argonaut II up to be able to reach her 100th birthday. Julian was the caretaker of the vessel for more than 30 years, and shared Argonaut II with many people across the Canadian boating community. Over my time with the boat, I have met dozens of people who both lived

The boat was repowered in 1940 with an air-start Gardner 6L3 marine diesel engine. JANUARY 2025

and worked on it, and were even married on it. I have heard rumors of Julian’s friendship with the American movie actor, John Wayne, who enjoyed cruising the southern Canadian waters on his yachts Wild Goose and Norwester. This may or may not be true, but I have been told that Argonaut II’s tender, Lil’ Argo, was formerly a dinghy owned by John Wayne, who traded it to Julian for a brass cannon. We now give the dinghy the nickname, “JWD,” or the “John Wayne Dinghy.” Since 2002, Argonaut II has passed through several owners, and the boat moved to Stimson Marina in Seattle. She has stayed in the same end-slip as a flagship boat of the marina and a recognized landmark in Salmon Bay. More recently, the boat has primarily been used as a live aboard, but I am on a mission to return Argonaut II to its full capabilities of cruising the remote coastlines of the Pacific Northwest and sharing it with as many people as I can. Since purchasing Argonaut II in 2021, I have put nearly 400 days underway covering more than 6,000 miles up and down Puget Sound and the Inside Passage. WHAT DO YOU LIKE BEST ABOUT YOUR BOAT? I love how much Argonaut II has touched the lives of so many people. Unlike private yachts or commercial ships, she’s made an impression on thousands of people in an extraordinary way throughout her history, creating intimate connections throughout remote areas alive with people who depended on Argonaut II for supplies, transportation, community, and even medical needs. With each stop I make along the coastline, people come up to the boat eager to share stories of their childhood memories aboard her—how their parents were married or christened on the boat, how they had their tonsils removed aboard, or worked as a deckhand, minister, or engineer. Often, it feels as though the entire village community wants to come down to the dock and connect with me and see the boat again. I also appreciate Argonaut II’s unique, regal look of classic beauty, and the way she draws even those who are unfamiliar with classic yachts to take a look and ask 48º NORTH

Argonaut retraces history en route to Bella Coola from Ocean Falls, her home port from 1937-1966.

a question. I love when people come to tell me a story of an old wooden boat they enjoyed and labored over with their family, or simply ask about Argonaut’s history not knowing much about boats but sensing there’s something there to ask about. I enjoy inviting the curious aboard to have a tour or a drink, and the boat has served as an incredible way for me to build my own community. I owe it to the boat’s history to continue sharing it with as many people as I can. WHAT DO YOU KNOW NOW ABOUT YOUR BOAT THAT YOU WISH YOU’D KNOWN WHEN YOU BOUGHT IT? WOULD THAT HAVE CHANGED YOUR MIND? I knew a fair amount of the boat’s history when I purchased it, and loved how classy the boat felt on the inside— stepping through the pilot house or the salon is like a step back in time. I knew I was taking on a big project, likely something larger than I could handle, but was interested in the challenge of something new and the opportunity to create my own contribution to the boat’s legacy. When I first encountered Argonaut II, I knew that the boat was behind in its maintenance schedule as a wooden boat, and knowingly purchased it with the intention of rebuilding the starboard side. In 2023, I hauled the boat out in Port Townsend, and with the leadership of the shipwrights Pete Stein, Quillan

Hunt, and Rowan Schatz, replaced 37 planks and 22 frames on the starboard side, along with the inner and outer sponson, guard, and miscellaneous projects over the course of a 10-week, very intensive haulout resulting in 2000+ hours of work. I committed a certain amount of initial investment into the boat, but this was all that I could afford. I am currently working to fundraise to perform a similar, and much larger, repair on the port side (mainly via YouTube and Patreon under the name “Argonaut II”, and direct donations on my website, www.argonaut1922.com). I plan to document these repairs on YouTube to continue sharing this boat’s ongoing story with the rest of the world. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE STORY INVOLVING YOUR BOAT? This past summer, I took time off of work to embark on a personal endeavor to retrace the history of Argonaut II up the remote coastline of Northern British Columbia, and document the journey on YouTube. Now back from my four-month, 2,100-mile journey, I am proud to have visited many of her old ports of call when she was a mission boat and met hundreds of people with stories of personal connection to the boat. I also shared this journey with some great friends, and can narrow my favorite stories down to two. First, after supporting the Race to Alaska, I began my journey north JANUARY 2025

The aft state room is available to charter guests, including a private head.

The stately chartroom is located aft of the pilot house. alongside another “really old and quite famous boat,” Tally Ho!, crewed by a team of young people involved in the restoration of wooden boats and keeping the tradition of wooden boat building and stewardship alive among younger generations. Part of my passion for wooden boats is to inspire young people to keep caring for these wonderful pieces of history and examples of traditional craftsmanship. 48° North readers will likely be familiar, but if you don’t know the story, Tally Ho! represents this well as an incredible seven-year endeavor of a seemingly impossible restoration project of a 1910 gaff-rigged cutter led by Leo Goolden. This summer, he and his crew embarked on a shakedown cruise and we decided to share the northbound segment of our journeys, because the only thing better than boating is boating with friends who share your same passion. What was rewarding about this experience is that each night, we dropped the hook in a different beautiful anchorage and rafted alongside each other—about a dozen of us—to truly enjoy everything that cruising has to offer. The cast of crew were a mix of my friends from Seattle, shipwrights, riggers, and tradespeople who supported the project, and friends whose backgrounds include working as captains, engineers, and deckhands on yachts around the world. At every stop, the activity was 48º NORTH

instantaneous, jumping into the water, throwing dinghies, paddleboards, and floats over the side, freediving, crabbing, and fishing, as well as exploring ashore. This came at a time of my life where I was having a lot of difficulty personally, and sharing everyone’s cruising happiness lifted my spirits. It’s one of the best memories I will ever have. I also had a special moment towards the tail end of my journey. While I was heading north through Dent Rapids, I passed a sailboat captained by Phil Little who hailed me on the radio exclaiming that he was the engineer aboard Argonaut II back in 1959 when she was the Thomas Crosby IV. We exchanged contact information and I reached out three months later as I headed south to Vancouver and overnighted at Heritage Harbour at the Vancouver Maritime Museum. Not only was I able to host Phil aboard, but he also joined me several days later on a crossing of the Strait of Georgia to Sidney on Vancouver Island. I learned about his time aboard Thomas Crosby IV, the people he encountered along the coastal communities in the 1950s and 1960s, and a thing or two about the boat. Phil connected me with longtime friends of his, Bob and Joan Burrows, who served with him aboard Argonaut II. Bob was a United Church minister, and he and Joan served on Thomas Crosby IV from 1960-1962 alongside Phil. Inviting them

aboard and re-living their experiences and observing their reactions to the boat was a very special experience. WHAT DIDN’T WE ASK YOU ABOUT YOUR BOAT THAT YOU WISH WE HAD? I would like to share just how unique and wonderful it is to have encountered such a strong liveaboard community in Seattle, and all the interesting characters and personalities who share a passion for the water and have discovered a secret to living in small slices of waterfronts around Puget Sound. In a similar regard, the shipyard in Port Townsend is bustling with tradespeople who are passionate about what they do, showcase craftsmanship and traditional woodworking at the highest level, and share in a community serving as a foundation that’s keeping these old wooden vessels alive. Wooden boat stewardship is a costly, time-consuming, and dying art form, and each year you see more and more boats head to the crusher. I do note a growing interest among young people who see the romance in the history and maritime tradition that these boats have to offer. I am passionate about sharing this worthy endeavor and spirit of restoration and preservation with as many people as I can. I’m a firm believer in supporting the trades, supporting the history, and learning about just how much the maritime community touches the lives of people up and down the coast. JANUARY 2025

THE BREATH OF CEDAR: BRINGING THE SAIL BACK TO LIFE

People have always sailed, across every corner of the world. But somewhere along the way, we traded cedar for canvas, and in that shift, we turned our gaze away, never to look back. The secret lies in the strength woven into the bark of cedar, a mystery that time has held close. – Guujaaw 48º NORTH

by The Haida Sails Resurgence Project with Simon Davies

efore stories were told, we Haida sailed the Pacific Ocean and the turbulent waters of Hecate Strait, navigating our way from Haida Gwaii, west across the open ocean to Hawai'i and Japan, and south to California and beyond. Our ancestors worked massive cedar trees into ocean-going canoes, carefully steaming and bending them to create vessels capable of long voyages. The sails—woven from the bark of cedar— were essential for harnessing the winds and carrying us to distant lands, where we traded, communicated, and forged relationships with other nations. These sails were more than tools of navigation; they were woven with the knowledge, wisdom, and spirit of our ancestors, carrying who we are and what we know across the wide Pacific Ocean. The arrival of European colonization in the 18th century disrupted this connection, driving the passing of knowledge underground. The cedar sails, once integral to travel and trade, were gradually replaced by European materials like canvas. Over time, the art of weaving cedar sails waned. Yet, the deep bond between ourselves and the ocean, and the knowledge of those who came before, remained. In recent years, a group of artists, colleagues, and friends came together to awaken the Haida sail, not simply as an exercise in the craft of making but as a vital part of remembering who we are. Haida sail making represents a powerful reclamation of our sovereignty and a

An on-the-water trial of a Haida sailing canoe. JANUARY 2025

reaffirmation of our deep connection to the ocean. Led by weavers, carvers, and cultural knowledge keepers, this enquiry is a profound act of cultural restoration—a way to re-establish another aspect of our relationship with the sea and the land. A CHANCE ENCOUNTER The resurgence of Haida sail making is more than a technical exercise; it is a reclamation. Paula Varnell, a member of the House of Haida Weavers, is one of the key figures in this effort. Together with her family of textile artists and carvers, she has embarked on a journey to weave the first Haida cedar sail in two centuries. This endeavor began with a vision rooted in oral histories, and a desire to reconnect with our ancestral ways. Varnell’s teachings and artistic practice were passed down through matriarch, Ilskylas Delores Churchill, a 93-year-old weaver, who guided her through the old stories, the examination of historical weavings, and accounts of our ancestors’ voyages. One of these stories tells of seal hunters who were swept out to sea by a storm and navigated to what is now known as the island of Hawai’i. Their cedar sails carried them across the ocean, and when they were welcomed by the Hawaiian people, it marked the beginning of a bond between the Haida and Hawaiians. This story, along with others from our oral traditions, forms the foundation of the current Haida sail making project, which bridges our past and present and strengthens our connection to other Indigenous peoples who share similar maritime histories. In 2022, Paula visited Haida carver Jaalen Edenshaw’s workshop, where a canoe with mast holes was being finished—a rare and significant feature in modern Haida canoe construction. This sparked a conversation about recreating Haida sails, which has led to many cultural exchanges and collaborative ideas, locally and with weavers from Aotearoa (New Zealand) and Hawai’i. These communities, like ours, possess a wealth of knowledge about traditional sail making, and their expertise was invaluable in our effort to explore our local weaving materials and technology to create a sail. “I’ve always seen the old photos of our canoes, with sails like wings, gliding through the water,” said carver and canoe-maker, Jaalen Edenshaw. “Even though I had never sailed before, I kept thinking about these images and the stories I had heard of the old timers sailing along the coast. So, when I built the canoe, I made mast holes. Hoping that one day they would be used.”

"Cedar is not merely a material; it is a living being, she is our sister and sacred to us."

Paula Varnell is a key figure in the effort to revive traditional Haida sail making and is a member of the House of Haida Weavers.

Working the living material of cedar bark into a state that it may be woven is both technical and a cultural connection to Haida ancestors.

LISTENING TO WHAT WE ARE TOLD Our canoes, constructed from cedar, are a tangible representation of our long connection to the land and sea. Cedar is not merely a material; it is a living being, she is our sister and sacred to us. For centuries, cedar was used to create canoes, homes, clothing, baskets, and other goods. It is central to our worldview, embodying the interconnectedness of all things— plant, animal, and human. Though much of the knowledge of cedar sail making was hidden, fragments have remained in oral history and the archival record. The Hudson’s Bay Company journals from 1831 mention the theft of a Haida canoe sail; and photographs from the 19th century, such as those taken by Richard Maynard, capture images of Haida canoes with sails made from European 48º NORTH

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canvas. These records offer glimpses into the past but do not fully convey the techniques our ancestors employed in weaving cedar sails. For that, we turned to the oral histories of our people, like those shared by elder Stephen Brown, who described how our ancestors used sails, called gya’áangu in our northern Haida dialect, to travel the waters surrounding Haida Gwaii. These stories and the collective memory of our people guide us, and bring the art of sail making into our minds today.

Using a jury rig to assess mast height and outline dimensions for a cedar sail.

OUR PACIFIC COUSINS In the absence of a physical Haida sail, our weavers turned to our Pacific cousins—the Māori of Aotearoa and the Hawaiians of the Pacific Islands—for guidance. These communities, too, have a rich tradition of navigating the open ocean, and their knowledge of sail making has proved invaluable to us. Through cultural exchanges and visits to museums and workshops, we had the opportunity to study Pacific Island sails and learn their techniques for constructing sails using natural materials. “Examining the many styles of sails at the Bishop Museum, the Burke Museum, and the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, was very enlightening. I realized there are many techniques to create sails that can work within our own unique weather patterns, currents, and environment,” said weaver and painter, Evelyn Vanderhoop. These exchanges were not only about the sharing of technical knowledge and techniques, but also about our shared history facing the impacts of colonization. This work is deep and connected and the restoration of traditional sail making is an act of solidarity.

Haida carver, Jaalen Edenshaw, built a canoe that sparked the conversation about reclaiming cedar sail making.

RETURNING TO OUR SISTER, AGAIN AND AGAIN At the heart of a Haida sail is the cedar tree. The cedar provides not only the material for the sail and the canoe but also a deeper, spiritual connection to our land. The act of weaving a cedar sail is an offering to the cedar tree and to the ocean, an expression of respect and gratitude for the sustenance it has provided the Haida for thousands of years. Just as our ancestors used sails to navigate and sustain our way of life, we now return to this practice as a reaffirmation of our commitment to the natural world. The cedar sail, woven with care and intention, is not just a tool; it is a ceremony—a living expression of our cultural identity.

“The cedar sail, woven with care and intention, is not just a tool; it is a ceremony—a living expression of our cultural identity.” 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2025

As we bring this knowledge into our minds, we are reminded of our responsibilities as caretakers of the land and sea. The power of the wind that fills our sails is of a supernatural force that we must respect and balance with the rhythms of our behavior. Our renewed practice of ocean-going wayfinding is a reminder of our long relationship with the sea and the responsibility we bear to protect and honor it. Today when the health of the oceans is under threat, the resurgence of a cedar sail serves as both a symbol and a call to action. It reminds us that the vast ocean is not merely a resource to be exploited, but a sacred space to be honored—one that, like all relationships, is rooted in reciprocity and respect. TOWARD THE HORIZON OF TOMORROW Our return to sail making is not a journey into the past; it is a path forward—a way of weaving together the wisdom of our dear ancestors and the aspirations of those to come. As we continue to practice our culture and navigate the contradictions of the

Today, the Haida are renewing not only the tradition of cedar sail making but also the practice of ocean-going wayfinding. modern world, the vision of canoes adorned with cedar sails on the horizon represents a future where our sovereignty is rooted on the land and expressed through the practice of our seafaring ways. As our canoes once again catch the wind, carrying us across the waters of Haida Gwaii and beyond, we will look to the stars and be carried into the future on the wind of our ancestors.

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LEARNING CURVE

TRANSLATING LOCAL CRUISING SKILLS ABROAD by Andy Cross

winging on anchor in a picturesque cove in the eastern Caribbean, my wife Jill and I still love reminiscing about special places in the Pacific Northwest where we’ve had the good fortune to drop our hook. A few nights ago, we enthusiastically story-topped each other with favorite anchorages in the San Juan and Gulf islands, the west coast of Vancouver Island, and Alaska, and all the fun and sometimes stressful moments that came with them. There was that unseasonably warm and sunny week in January when we had Princess Cove on Wallace Island all to ourselves. We didn’t need to stern-tie, but we did anyway. Or the stunning views in Alaska of snow-capped mountains and glaciers hanging high above us in impossibly carved valleys that made us feel tiny. And the afternoon we spent watching our oldest son, Porter, practice rowing the dinghy by himself in Barkley Sound. Those are memories and places that we’ll always cherish. When we cut Yahtzee’s dock lines in Alaska and headed offshore for California and beyond, we felt that our experiences cruising the waters of the Inside Passage had upped our game and prepared us for what was to come. Now, over five years and thousands of miles later, I can confidently say that they did. Here’s a bit of what we learned that has paid off since, which may be useful to PNW cruisers wondering whether their local skills adequately prepare them for faraway destinations. 48º NORTH

WEATHER PLANNING It all starts with the weather. As sailors, checking and rechecking forecasts and weather models is a daily task. I’m always trying to learn more about how lows and highs move, how winds develop and shift, and how ridges or troughs form. In the Pacific Northwest, particularly in the winter, we lived by the weather and had to pay close attention when storms were approaching and from what direction. Safe anchorages for the conditions had to be planned accordingly, and we certainly learned our lesson on a few occasions, especially when unforecast winds left us scrambling. We endured a sleepless night off Saddlebag Island near Anacortes when a southerly wind was surprisingly much stronger than we anticipated. The wee-hour restlessness gave us time to reflect on what we might have done differently. Soon thereafter, we put the lesson to good use, planning properly for an approaching winter storm by setting two anchors and two stern-tie lines at Portland Island. The wind howled over the trees and through Royal Cove, and Yahtzee rode out 40+ knot gusts without a problem. If you’re planning to head out cruising, my best piece of advice is to learn as much as you can about the weather in micro and macro ways. Zoom out at the bigger picture and back in when you get to a new locale. By watching the weather for the areas you’ll be cruising well in advance, you can pick up on any nuances or patterns that might come as less of a surprise later. Try to find maps with topographical information, too. A

JANUARY 2025

Spaanse Waters lagoon on Curaçao became Yahtzee's home for several months while arranging for repairs.

REEFING We all know some version of the saying that, “The right time to reef is when you first think about it.” That’s because it’s true. But how long it takes you to put in that reef is as important as timing. Similar to anchoring, you can’t do it well or get better at it if you don’t practice. When we first started cruising full-time in the winter in the ANCHORING AND STERN-TYING Being well practiced at anchoring your boat in a variety Salish Sea, this lesson came quickly. We reefed early and often, of geographical situations and wind and swell conditions is and in doing so, we really learned what was the best practice important no matter where you cruise. In the Pacific Northwest, for executing this task efficiently on Yahtzee. Also, I was able we almost exclusively anchored with a single anchor from to make some minor changes to our setup that would help our bow. That is, until we started going north of the San Juan later. On the passage from Alaska to California, we ended up putting in reefs and shaking them out multiple times. Islands. Most of those instances were before more wind In the Gulf Islands and Desolation Sound, we arrived, but when we needed it done fast, I was became proficient in stern-tying to rings or Yahtzee (right) glad to have had all the reps. Depending on chains that are specifically designed and and fellow buddy boats whether you cruise with friends, family, or set for that purpose. Then, when we went stern-anchored in Mexico. shorthanded, be sure to develop confident north of those cruising grounds and the reefing skills locally with the number of helpful rings were no longer there, we hands you expect to have available to started stern-tying to logs, trees, and you at sea. rocks with chafe sleeves. In Alaska, where Remember, reefing isn’t just to keep anchorages are deep, it was common the boat from heeling too much and practice for us to set our anchor against a decreasing weather helm when you’re steep sloping beach and then stern-tie to sailing closehauled. Though it wasn’t shore. something we practiced a lot in the Pacific All of that practice was helpful along the Northwest, because so many of our cruising coasts of Mexico and Central America. There, waterways are relatively protected, cruising abroad we became adept at using a stern anchor to keep Yahtzee’s bow facing the ground swell coming in off the ocean. has reinforced the understanding that reefing for downwind Without it, we’d be uncomfortably rolling from gunnel to sailing is important for maintaining control of the boat in bigger winds and seas. After tucking that first reef in the main, gunnel. This probably goes without saying, but by being well versed sometimes rolling up a little bit of your headsail can make a big in different anchoring scenarios and techniques you will, in difference too. extension, become very well acquainted with your ground tackle and how to use it. Having complete trust in the anchors, SELF-SUFFICIENCY By far one of the best benefits of getting lots of cruising chain, and rode that you carry is imperative, and the only way experience in the Pacific Northwest and Alaska before heading you can gain trust is by setting them… often. bay that appears protected might be funneling breeze between mountains over a low isthmus. And tap any connections who you know have visited the area you’re planning to go to find out if there are any weird weather anomalies or any other useful tips.

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farther afield is that you organically become self-sufficient. The may not have been part of your original itinerary. While cruising in British Columbia, we had unexpected engine weather and geography of the Inside Passage forces you to have the proper knowledge and resources aboard your vessel in order problems that were beyond my scope as an amateur mechanic. to take care of your crew and the boat, and to handle a whole host We found a capable mechanic in Ganges on Salt Spring Island and ended up spending two weeks there, thoroughly enjoying of big and small maintenance issues that will arise. When cruising in Southeast Alaska and then over to Kodiak the town and island. We took this important lesson to heart Island and up to Prince William Sound, we had to be very careful when the same thing happened years later in the Caribbean. about how much fuel we used. Fuel stops were far apart and, even Our transmission failed and the fix happened on the island of though it’s notoriously windy there in the winter, days went by Curaçao. We ended up absolutely loving it there and definitely with little to no wind for sailing in the summer cruising season. hope to go back. This ability to adjust and adapt with a positive This was similar along the Pacific coast, especially in Mexico and attitude is definitely a cruising skill. When boat problems didn’t stop us in our tracks, we’ve simply Central America. When the wind switches between land and sea breezes during the day and night, it can be fickle. Couple that done without. In Mexico, our old water heater developed a leak with long distances between ports with amenities, and planning, and then gave out. I took it out, donated it to a worker at the boatyard, and on we went. We’ve gone years with it now and patience, and attentiveness underway are key. Along with fuel, the remote areas of the Pacific Northwest haven’t missed it. taught us how to stretch our food and water supply between ports. We became proficient at provisioning with fresh fruits and FOR THE CHARTERERS In reality, I know that the vast majority of boaters aren’t vegetables, frozen items, food that needed to be kept cold, and shelf stable items that could be used when we started to run low. heading out for years of cruising. It’s not everyone’s dream, and other obligations or hobbies can need attending to. It’s a learning experience that really can’t be simulated The good thing is, lots of people charter boats in during overnight or weekend cruises, but you’ll Yahtzee stretches exotic locales around the world, and if you’re get good at it the longer you’re out. Trust the her legs downwind in one of them, some of our learning and tips process. northern British Columbia. may be helpful. Yacht charters are supposed to be BUDDY BOATING relaxing sailing vacations with friends One of the very best things about and family in beautiful locations, but cruising in the Pacific Northwest is there are several pitfalls that can cause that, for all the secluded splendor you them to go awry. When I taught charter can find, you can also be part of an cruising in the British Virgin Islands, the incredible community of like-minded biggest mistake I saw eager charterers boaters. For those planning to make the make is to try and stick to a strict schedule. big left turn and head south, cherish the Yes, you obviously are going to have an friends you have at the marina, raft-up with overarching plan, but it’s important to be open in an anchorage, or have a few drinks with at to change. Maybe the weather isn’t cooperating or the yacht club bar. one of your crew wants to add a stop that you didn’t In Mexico, we were fortunate to meet up with close friends that we made in Seattle and then buddy boated with have on the itinerary. Being flexible will make it a lot more them through Central America. Then, they went west across the enjoyable for everyone. Speaking of schedules, if you can, give yourself extra time by Pacific and we went east through the Panama Canal and into the Caribbean Sea. We still keep in touch, but I’m grateful for the arriving at least a day early and staying an extra day after your times we had while cutting our cruising teeth around the Salish charter ends. Chances are, you flew a long way to get to your Sea. Not only do we value these relationships, but we really did charter, so rushing in and jumping on a boat you’ve probably share knowledge, both locally and abroad. Our collaborations in never used before and then getting out of the marina can be route planning, weather analysis, boat maintenance, and lots of stressful for all involved. Likewise, when you come back, give other elements of seamanship helped everyone gain competence yourself at least an extra day to enjoy where you are rather than rushing to the airport. You’ll thank yourself later. and confidence more rapidly. Another flub that people who may be less experienced at living Friends make cruising better. Don’t take your PNW boat buddies day-in-day-out on a boat make is to rip through their supply of for granted, and be open to making new ones along the way. freshwater. This happens all the time on charter boats. Like I said above about self-sufficiency, you only have a finite amount of PROBLEMS HAPPEN Any moderately experienced cruiser knows that issues arise on resources on your boat. If you use all the freshwater showering a boat, and some of them aren’t easy to fix in the moment. No and doing dishes, you’re going to have to either go back to the matter how perfect you try to make your boat before casting off, charter base or find a marina. That equates to lost time and, if even the newest and best gear can fail. What’s important is that you’re trying to stick to that almighty schedule, you’ll get behind you can either keep going and do without whatever’s broken, or and will be left with unnecessary stress. The nice thing is that anyone who has spent a great deal of you embrace making the best of any downtime in a location that 48º NORTH

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The anchoring practice and technique that cruising in the Pacific Northwest provided the author and his family has been invaluable to them as international cruisers.

time cruising Puget Sound is likely to find many charter locations dead easy when it comes to the actual sailing. The tides and currents, weather changes, and wind shifts mean that PNW sailors are trained to be on their nautical toes in a way that simply may not be as necessary elsewhere, even in unfamiliar waters. Navigationally, our time in the South Sound proved useful when other areas with narrow passages and shallows required constant diligence. HAVE FUN In the end, cruising is supposed to be a fun and rewarding experience. Yes, there are challenges that come with the fun, but I’ve always said that the highs of the cruising life are far higher than the lows. That’s been true for us since we bought Yahtzee in 2012 in Seattle, and it’s still true today as I type this at the nav desk while anchored in sunny and breezy St. Barths. Whether you get out for a weekend, a month, the summer, for many years, or on a charter, I wish you the best of luck and cruising success. Your experience on the waters of the Pacific Northwest will undoubtedly help you develop your own bag of tips or tricks to share with the cruisers who follow in your wake. Andy Cross is the editor of 48° North. After years cruising the Pacific Northwest and Alaska with his family aboard their Grand Soleil 39, Yahtzee, they sailed south and are currently in the Caribbean Sea. You can follow their adventures at SailingYahtzee.com 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2025

BOAT TIME DEEP ENGAGEMENT AND ALTERED PERCEPTION ON THE WATER

by Alex Zimmerman

’ve been thinking about time lately. The aspect of time that I have been thinking most about, however, is how I perceive it when I am spending time in small boats out on the water. It seems different from the other ways I experience time. I have come to think of it as boat time. It seems more elastic than clock time, either expanding or contracting when I am immersed in it. And these experiences of boat time are almost always intensely vivid, thanks to their deep in-the-moment engagement of happiness, focus, and occasionally struggle. This has happened all my life. The first instance I can clearly recall was when I was 14, during a canoe trip with my Boy Scout troop that took us through a series of small lakes connected by slow-moving marshy rivers. In the late evening of our third day out, we were heading for a campsite at the far end of one of those lakes when a thunderstorm that had been brewing for some time descended on us. The wind, rain, and fading daylight reduced the visibility to near zero. We lost sight of the other canoes and entered a 48º NORTH

zone where time ceased to be. There was only the endless movement of our arms as we paddled and bailed in the darkness, wind, and rain. It seemed like forever, but to this day I could not tell you how long it took, by the clock, to reach the other end of that lake. When the storm finally passed, the campsite hove into view, and the normal flow of time resumed. More recently, nearly 50 years after that canoe trip, I experienced another

example of boat time. It occurred on my last day in Grenville Channel during my trip south down the Inside Passage in my sail and oar boat, Fire-Drake. From my overnight anchorage in Lowe Inlet, I rowed all morning in the calm and dropped the hook about noon for lunch. As I got ready to go again, a moderate breeze came up on the nose, just right for sailing. The afternoon was wonderful, under hazy but bright skies, the moderate wind gave me

The author's self-designed and built sail and oar boat beached in British Columbia.

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enough power to sail, while the sea state remained low. I made tack after tack across the channel, paying close attention to the helm and sail trim to make the best speed to windward. It was a tacking duel against myself with no one to witness. The least lapse in attention and I would lose a half a knot to a knot. I was completely engaged in sailing, and the concept of time dissipated entirely from my consciousness. Time only started to surface into my awareness again as the wind faded and the tide turned against me while I approached Sainty Point. The lighthouse on the point marked both the effective end of Grenville Channel and the corner to a channel leading eastward. I had vaguely thought of spending the night at the nearby community of Hartley Bay and I started to think about how far I still had to go to get there. I looked at my watch as I transitioned from sailing to rowing and was genuinely shocked to see that it was then 7:30 p.m., seven hours of chronometer time since I started sailing, but only a measureless instant of captivating boat time. Experiencing or conceiving of time in different ways, depending on the context or the circumstance, is not a new idea. The ancient Greeks conceived of at least three types of time and, characteristically, those concepts were embodied or personified in their gods. The god Aion was associated with eternal

or perpetual time, which for the Greeks was a recurring phenomenon, with the idea that time had no beginning or end but was cyclical, with all past things eventually returning in the future. Aion gave us the modern word eon, which we now apply to geological lengths of time. Kairos was a minor deity associated with luck and opportunity. Kairos time for the Greeks was the time to act at an opportune or appropriate moment, the fleeting time in which to take action, which may never come again. I can’t think of an equivalent modern word. Chronos was the god of linear time, time that we measure with a clock (origin of the word chronometer). He was often depicted as an old grey-haired man with a beard, sometimes wielding a scythe— old father time who waits for no man. Most of us are acutely conscious of Chronos time. We live our lives by the clock, we catch trains or airplanes, we attend scheduled meetings, and we parcel out our lives in minutes, days, weeks, and years. Our modern technological civilization depends on ever-smaller and ever-more-precise definitions, so much so that we find it necessary to define a second as 9,192,631,770 oscillations of a cesium-133 atom. The GPS systems that we use to navigate depend on this precision, but even that precision is not enough for them. They also must account for the effects that occur due to Einstein’s Theory of General Relativity. One of the effects is that time moves differently for

the GPS satellites in microgravity than it does for us down on the water, because time is actually inseparable from space, mass, and gravity. As Stephen Hawking put it in his 1988 book, A Brief History of Time, “In the theory of relativity there is no unique absolute time, but instead each individual has his own personal measure of time that depends on how he is moving.” As a sailor in a small boat, I know that I am moving so slowly relative to my surroundings that my own literal chronometer measure of time is no different from anyone else’s, but the idea of a time experience that depends on how you are moving strikes a chord with me. Moving in a small boat, I experience a kind of visceral or intuitive time, which I would argue is a fourth, subjective kind of time, different from any of the three types of time that the ancient Greeks named—boat time. While most of my boating experience has been in small boats, I have also encountered boat time in larger boats. One occurrence that stands out for me happened during an offshore passage on my friend Peter’s 32-foot sloop, when I helped him and his wife Mary sail it from Victoria to San Francisco. We were off the coast of Oregon when the wind died on the morning of the fourth day out. After wallowing about on the windless swell with sails slatting for most of the day, a light north wind came up during the second dog watch. We happily hoisted

When sailing the coast of B.C., it's easy to get lost in boat time.

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the spinnaker and set off downwind, hand steering, as there wasn’t enough apparent wind for the self-steering gear. I was on watch from 8:00 p.m. to midnight and my friends went below to get some sleep before they came back on watch. It was a fine night, clear and not too cold. I settled down in the cockpit, tiller in hand, to concentrate on steering to keep the spinnaker filled and the boat moving. It was a moonless night, with only the zodiac of the stars to mark any change, and that was almost imperceptible as they revolved slowly around Polaris. The task was mesmerising, watching the just-discernible balloon shape of the spinnaker in the starlight, but it required increasing alertness as the wind gradually built throughout my watch. The steering became more sensitive so that if I let my attention wander, one of the edges of the sail would start to collapse. I was so focused on the steering that I completely lost track of the clock time. When Peter poked his head out of the hatch, I wondered why he had gotten up early. I was a little startled when he told me that it was nearly midnight. The fourhour watch had flown by in a fleeting moment of boat time. The boat time that night didn’t end with the watch handover. I had become so attuned to the sea state, boat, and spinnaker that I had it all balanced and under control, but when Peter took over the helm, he couldn’t stop it from oscillating and collapsing in the

The author's friend Tim, takes a break from rowing aboard his Hvalsoe 18.

strengthened wind. It was clear the sail would have to come down, but it was at least a two-person job to shift to the right set of sails for the changed conditions. Although I was technically off watch, I helped Peter douse and stow the spinnaker. We then had to bring up the twin jibs from below, hank them on, hoist them, set up their whisker poles and get them trimmed properly. Now that I was no longer on the tiller, I was suddenly tired from being awake all day and from the continuous effort of steering. The work felt never-ending and seemed to go on for hours—unsnarling tangled lines, grappling with unruly sailcloth and recalcitrant pole ends under the uncertain glow of the spreader lights

The passing of boat time while underway is a profound experience.

while the dark water rushed by on either side. In reality, when we were finished and I went below, it had only taken an hour. I have had many experiences of boat time over the years, and the intensity of these moments makes them nearly indelible in my mind’s eye. I have vivid memories of specific weeks spent kayaking or sailing or rowing from decades ago, but have almost no recollection of events from the rest of those years. As with the three episodes I related, I can sometimes recall entire days of paddling, rowing, or sailing when I was not aware of time passing. I treasure those memories, but have a hard time explaining why they should seem so valuable to me. Perhaps it is the intense connectedness with the natural world. Perhaps it is the profound integration of mind and body that I experience. Perhaps it is both. Or maybe it is something that defies rational description, but which feels right and true. So, here’s to boat time, and may we all have more of it. Alex Zimmerman retired from a career in engineering to better pursue his lifelong avocation of boating and amateur boatbuilding. He writes about boats and the people who sail them. He is the author of Becoming Coastal, a book about 25 years of small boat voyaging along British Columbia’s coast. He swears he could stop building boats any time he chooses to… really.

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JANUARY 2025

DAMP, BUT DARN FUN! TYC WINTER VASHON

Photo by Sean Trew. 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2025

by Peter Stewart

acoma Yacht Club’s (TYC) Winter Vashon race is the first event of the four-race Southern Sound Series, and the official kickoff of winter racing on Puget Sound. As the weekend approached, the hardy racers who don’t box up and store the foulies through the cold season watched the weather and got ready for a rainy first Saturday of December. With southwest winds forecast, we planned for teens in Colvos Passage, increasing at the north end of the island and building into high teens and low 20s through East Passage. The tide would be at the end of a flood around the warning, followed by a modest ebb. Our Cherokee crew assembled early in Des Moines for a delivery to TYC’s annual circumnavigation of Vashon Island. Taking advantage of the Cal 33’s characteristics as a racer-cruiser, my crew enjoyed hot coffee and breakfast while delivering south. With ample time at the starting area, we plotted which sails to start with, and

Morgan Larson and crew on the Moore 24 Bruzer sailed to the top of Class 7, with the author's Cherokee coming second. Photo by Sean Trew.

soon we were in sequence. A little early for the line, we maneuvered to burn time and set up the A2 spinnaker in a good position out near the pin. With nice pace, we were headed for Colvos in good company—Moore 24s Bruzer and Skosh as well as the Pt. Bonita 27 Pell Mell and Ranger 33 Aurora were all with us on port jibe, all close at times. With Bruzer to leeward, I noticed some guest stars aboard and thought, ‘In what other sport could you share the field with that many locally-based Olympic

J/Sport - J/70 J/80 J/88 J/9 J/99 J/111 J/121 J/Elegant - J/112e J/45 J/40

medalists?” PRO Charley Rathkopf had announced during a brief postponement that there would be a one-minute delay between sequences. The handheld VHF was still in the cockpit, so my ears perked up when our Charley was hailing one of our competitors, the crew on Pell Mell. Realizing they were not hearing the hail, I got their attention and told them the RC had them in Class 6 not Class 7 so they had been in the wrong start. They had lobbied to race with our group and

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JANUARY 2025

The upwind start was followed by a rollicking run down Colvos Passage. Photo by Sean Trew.

believed they were placed in our class. Total bummer, I felt really bad for them, but it was a reminder to check the official notice board on the morning of the race. Sailing north in Colvos Passage, we all stayed mostly in the middle, only jibing a few times and relishing great speeds in the 12 to 15 knots of shifting southerly wind. We damaged the A2 in a fouled jibe, so the S2 was flying halfway through Colvos. Some distance was lost in the sail change, and Aurora was now ahead and Skosh was close behind. The last five nautical miles of the leg were sailed in an 18 to 25 knot southerly. Our class was first to the turning mark off the north side of Vashon. Glancing behind us, everyone looked fast and was

catching up quickly. We had teed up the J3 for the beat back to Tacoma, and that was a great choice. With wind in the high teens to low 20s, we needed to connect the shifts and catch these very well sailed boats. A few tacks west on port, and we enjoyed a nice high starboard lift to Point Robinson. With some of the faster boats now passing us, we were in good shape. Past Point Robinson the wind shifted south-southwest and built to 20 to 27 knots. We were crossing tacks with Bruzer and reefing the main at the same time. Pell Mell was quite close ahead, and we had been catching them, but they now split from the class, heading to the east side. The forecast was more southwest

breeze, so my plan had been to play the Vashon side so the probable shift would be a nice starboard lift to the finish. Needing to beat Bruzer by almost eight minutes to correct ahead, we rolled the dice and split off toward Brown’s Point across Commencement Bay. Hoping for a left shift and a lifted port tack to the finish, we pressed toward our layline. We got our left shift, but it wasn’t enough and Bruzer converged with us at the line, finishing ahead boat for boat and winning the class. All the while, we were battling Aurora and needing to save our time on them. We managed to do that, winding up second in our class. Crossing the line, we dropped the J3 and turned downwind toward Des Moines.

The author's Cal 33 Cherokee bashes to weather in building breeze. Photo by Sean Trew.

Splashes of sunshine eventually appeared, but with that much breeze, it was still a wet day. Photo by Sean Trew. 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2025

The breeze pushed into the mid 20s near the finish. Photo by Sean Trew.

Foil wrapped sandwiches went into the oven, and I handed out some welldeserved beverages topside. The boats that passed Point Robinson holding a long starboard tack toward Redondo did very well, including Class 5 winner Hobie 33, TC, skippered by JJ Hoag, and the overall winners on the Olson 40 String Theory led by skipper

48º NORTH

Bob King. This year‘s Winter Vashon started as a very rainy morning, but did get dry later on. However, great wind and chop made enough spray off the bow to keep everything wet even when the rain stopped. That’s winter racing! I’d like to extend a special thank you to all of the volunteers and the race

committee who put on the race. The first race of the 2024-2025 Southern Sound Series is in the books. Next up is the Three Tree Point Yacht Club Duwamish Head Race on the first weekend in January. Full results at: https://www.ssssclub. com/southern-sound-series-racing/ Photos courtesy of Sean Trew.

JANUARY 2025

RED RUBY

REPORT: PARTING THOUGHTS by Jonathan McKee

Fastnet Race, they persevered and thrived, despite injury and big seas, finishing seventh out of 106 doublehanders, with Chris ll good things must end eventually, and so it is with earning accolades as the top finishing woman skipper. Then, our beloved Red Ruby racing project aboard our shared they won the Middle Sea Race in ORC and Doublehanded. Not Jeanneau SunFast 3300. For my boat partners Chris many examples of a married couple doing that… in any sport! It’s all about the partners. I was and Justin Wolfe (who 48° North fortunate to have an amazing cast of readers have heard from many times doublehanded partners in this project. in this column over the last few years), Alyosha Strum-Palerm was a critical and for me and those I’ve had the part of Red Ruby’s success. And Peter privilege to sail with on Red Ruby— Isler, Will Harris, Olivier Diouris, Justin this has been an immensely satisfying Wolfe, and Carl Buchan all raced with adventure on many levels. It has been me. I learned so much from each of quite a ride at times, with unexpected them, and we shared some great and twists, successes, and also humbling intense times together. moments. Racing in another part of the world The sea is benevolent yet powerful, is difficult yet satisfying. It turns out especially in Brittany and the English that our discipline on Red Ruby— Channel. We have all been tested. But doublehanded offshore sailboat we had some victories as well—winning The core four—two doublehanded Red racing—is not regularly practiced here the ORC Doublehanded Worlds (Class B) Ruby teams—all representing the PNW! in the Pacific Northwest. But it is quite and the IRC Doublehanded Europeans, popular in France and England, with in addition to Middle Sea and Fastnet race exploits. Here are some of our takeaways from two years large fleets of nearly identical boats. Running a program from afar takes some effort. The journey is the reward of course, and of intense doublehanded ocean racing. A married couple can kick ass at this. Chris and Justin’s the experiences we had made it all worthwhile. We made some amazing friends along the way. From Malta to incredible partnership allowed them to sail at a very high level while showing steady improvement. In a brutally tough Rolex Cowes, we have gotten to know some really great people from

48º NORTH

JANUARY 2025

Chris and Justin crush the start of an epic Fastnet Race on Red Ruby.

other countries. We also saw beautiful sights, from St. Malo to Barcelona, and our appreciation of the world and its waterways only grew. Two sailing teams is better than one. By sharing one boat between two sailing teams, we attended a lot more races than you could as one team. And by sharing our debriefs after each event, both teams could improve more rapidly. Collaborating in this way also made us feel like we were part of something larger. To make this arrangement work, you obviously need the right partners, and in this case our goals were well matched and we had a previous history of working together. It takes some extreme trust and mutual respect to make it work optimally. Effective planning and continuous learning wins. The Wolfes set an excellent example of upskilling themselves and preparing all aspects of the program between events. I learned a lot about this from them! So after two years of great ocean racing, it is with heavy hearts that the Red Ruby team says goodbye to this chapter. We have been gratified and humbled by our followers’ interest in the project. It feels really great to have folks back home in the Pacific Northwest support us and care about what we were doing. We have enjoyed passing along some of our tales and lessons along the way. Be on the lookout for future racing projects from us all. Chris and Justin are having fun with their new boat, the Riptide 35 Ripple. And I can usually find some trouble to get into, so you may hear from us again in these pages. 48º NORTH

After four days at sea, Jonathan and Will Harris take a podium finish in the La Drheam-Cup.

JANUARY 2025

MULTIPLE GENERATIONS GOBBLE UP GOOD BREEZE CYC TURKEY BOWL 2024

efore the bird is brining, the cranberries are drowned in sugar and rum, and that one uncle goes too far at the dinner table, Corinthian Yacht Club of Seattle puts on its annual Turkey Bowl Regatta for small boats. Especially in recent years, the turnout has been stellar, bringing young sailors and some of the region’s best adult dinghy and sport boat sailors to the waters of Shilshole Bay for some pre-holiday fun! And 2024 was no exception. Sixty-six boats spanning nine classes enjoyed some fabulous sailing on Saturday, with 8-18 knots of solid late-November southerly and peeks of sunshine breaking through the clouds. Everybody got to sail powered-up and, at the top end of the breeze, had the chance to enjoy a bit of planing and surfing! One of the most special aspects of Turkey Bowl is its intergenerational dynamic. On the water, the classes were mostly all-youth or all-adults, but it’s still unique and wonderful to see the race course shared by skippers from 7 to 70 years old! When there was an extended wait for wind on Sunday, a spontaneous debrief began among the burgeoning J/70 fleet, and according to coach Ron Rosenberg, high schoolers were “so engaged” in the discussion. Pretty cool! For all its good vibes, of course, Turkey Bowl is still a friendly competition. Around the fleet, class honors went to Eleanor Blakemore and Leif Hauge in the C420 fleet, Isa Ford and Eloise Herrera among the FJs, Siri Biswas from the ILCA 4.7s, Alex Shemwell in the ILCA 6 (Radial) class, Alex Zaputil in the ILCA 7, Boris Luchterhand and the Riff crew among the J/70s, Mack Cullen in the 15-boat Opti fleet, Dan Falk in the 15-boat RS Aero class, and Derek DeCouteau and Jamie Stewart took the win amongst the Star boats. Turkey Bowl really is something special. Gobble gobble! Full results at www.cycseattle.org. Photos by Geoffrey Grosenbach.

48º NORTH

JANUARY 2025

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15’ BOLGER GLOUCESTER GULL DORY The Artful Sailor is selling the famed 15’ Bolger Gloucester Gull, TASWENS, veteran of three, round trip 70/48 races, a circumnavigation of Kitsap Peninsula and the Salish 100. Traditionally finished, complete with sails, spars, oars, cruising gear, cover and dolly. Ready to row. Visit TASWENS, by appointment at The Artful Sailor shop in Port Townsend at Point Hudson. Visit: theartfulsailor.com » Contact The Artful Sailor • (360) 344-8120 • theartfulsailor@gmail.com • $9,000

0 4 ,0

ALBIN 25 TRAWLER 1973/2024 Boat totally restored: Westerbeke 38b4 low hours. New prop shaft with dripless seal and prop exhaust. New barrier coat, through holes and bottom paint. New gelcoat up to deck. New paint on deck and cabins. All wood refinished. Diesel heater and ac panel,battery charger,new electronics,auto-pilot,chart plotter,radio. New canvas. Maxwell windless, bow thruster. » Contact Roger Larson • (360) 582-1330 • rogerspirit28@gmail.com • $34,000

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46' MORGAN 462 (1981) 46.5 ft long. Owned since 2011. Solid Cruiser. Comfortable boat that will make a great live aboard. Located in Marina Fonatur, San Blas, Nayarit, Mexico. Ten-hour day sail South to Puerto Vallarta. Overnight sail North to Mazatlan. New stainless steel port lights. Reconditioned hatches. New instruments. Reconditioned engine. More pictures: https://bit.ly/morgan462 » Contact Steve Koole • koolekat1958@hotmail.com • $10,000

0 9, 9

, 90

1977 ALAJUELA 38 MK 1 Upgrades (2019 – 2022) include engine (Beta 43), Navionics Suite, Solar, standing / running rigging, roller furling genoa, main and staysail. Monitor self steering, new max prop 4 blade, new electrical switchboard and cabling throughout. Completed 12 month circumnavigation 2022-2023. Ready for more. » Contact Douglas Wertz • (509) 438-1151 • dougwertz55@gmail.com • $79,900

30’ YANKEE ONE SLOOP SAILBOAT Master Mariner award winning, designed by William Starling Burgess/Stone built. Wooden hull. Roller furler. Flame totally restored in 2015. Complete survey in 2023 available. “A Sailor’s Sailboat”. Located in Richmond, CA. » Contact Bob • stefroche916@gmail.com • $49,900

,0 0

22" CLASSIC DAYSAILER Latitude 46 Tofinou 7 built in 1994. 22’ classic daysailer, with inboard diesel and varnished wood detailing, perfect for solo sailing or groups of 4. Furling jib, spinnaker, lazy jacks, tiller lock, retractable keel, with halyards and sheets accessible from the cockpit. » Contact Bruce Bjerke • brucetbjerke@comcast.net • $30,000

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QUALITY YACHTS FROM SWIFTSUREYACHTS.COM The Bestevaer 45ST is the complete package for a rugged cruising yacht. The aluminum hull allows you to travel anywhere in the world and her bright modern interior appeals to all generations of sailors. The 45ST is a semi-custom design from the reputable KM Yachtbuilders in the Netherlands. After a year-long refit at CSR Marine in Seattle, she is on the market again. The refit included a full Victron electrical suite with two separate lithium house battery banks totalling 900 amp hours, 730 watts of solar, air conditioning, and Starlink. The exterior was renewed by sand blasting the deck and house, with the only painted surface now her light gray nonskid. Her sail plan was upgraded to in boom furling, two new furling headsails and new running rigging, all completed by Ballard Sails and Rigging. Down below is wonderfully bright, modern, and cozy all at the same time with the addition of the new upholstery. Sitting at the base of the companionway, the galley is large, and the simple twin cabin single head (with a separate shower stall) layout keeps the salon big enough for entertaining. She is presently lying in Seattle and awaiting a Pacific cruise or Northwest Passage transit. – molly how e

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JANUARY 2025

MARINE SERVICENTER

Seattle Bellingham Los Angeles San Diego 2442 Westlake Ave. N 1801 Roeder Ave. #128 4655 Admiralty Way, #208 955 Harbor Island Dr., #160 206.323.2405 360.770.0180 310.963.3750 619.733.0559 Dealer of the Year Yacht Sales - Since 1977

info@marinesc.com • www.marinesc.com

AFLOAT SHOW SAVE $127,640

‘23 • ‘22 • ‘21 • ‘20 • ‘19 • ‘16

AFLOAT SHOW SAVE $179,595

JAN 31-FEB 8, 2025 Indoors + Afloat

2023 Jeanneau 490 #77424: $589,896

2024 Lagoon 42 #835: $748,612

WINTER CLEARANCE In Stock! SAVE $36,060

SAVE $25,693 Just Arrived! SAVE $28,128

INDOOR SHOW Just Arrived! SAVE $6,547

2025 2C/1H Jeanneau 410 #78674: $469,995 2025 3C/2H Jeanneau 410 #78983: $476,859

2025 Jeanneau 350 #78984: $303,432

WINTER CLEARANCE Just Arrived! SAVE $38,000

SAVE Just Arrived! $35,377

2025 Jeanneau 440 #78675: $579,860

2024 LaMare Modern 11 #442: $349,866

LA MARE HOUSEBOATS Reduced

2011 Dufour 525 GL • $329,000

2024 Jeanneau 380 #77927: $374,876

AFLOATInSHOW Stock! SAVE $41,000

2024 Catalina 355 #182: $329,634

CROSSOVER

New Listing

LISTINGS WANTED! • WE GET RESULTS!

See Your Boat in 48° North & Five Online Ads!

2018 Jeanneau Yacht 51• $520,000

2020 Jeanneau 490 • $548,000

2015 Beneteau Oceanis 45 • $344,500

2021 Jeanneau 440 • $394,500

Reduced

1996 Hylas 46 • $299,500

New NewListing Listing

Reduced

2011 DufourSun 525Magic GL • 44 $385,000 1990 Jeanneau • $99,500

50' Taswell 50 RS ‘00 ......... Sale Pending 44' Morgan 44cc ‘89.................$110,000 42' Catalina 42 MkII ‘97..................SOLD 40' Jeanneau 409 ‘12..New Listing..$160,000 40' Jeanneau 409 ‘11,‘13 & ‘14 .. 3 SOLD 38' Nauticat 38 '85 ......................$98,000 38' Catalina 380 ‘99 ........................SOLD 35' Catalina 350 ‘03 ........................SOLD 35' Jeanneau 349 ‘22 ..New Listing ...$224,500 35' Jeanneau 349 ‘20 .....................SOLD 35' Ericson 35 MkIII ‘83 ...................SOLD 34' True North 34 OE ‘24............$631,581 32' Catalina 320 ‘00 .......................SOLD 32' Cheoy Lee Offshore 32 ‘78...$32,500 30' XO EXPLR 10 S+ ‘24 .............$398,813 28' XO DFNDR 9 ‘24 ...................$398,784

2000 Catalina 380 • $98,500

2016 Nautitech 40 • $448,000

Reduced

Dan Krier

John Sheppard Dean Iwata

Call Today! 1993 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37 • $134,800

48º NORTH

2011 J/111 • $229,900

2016 Jeanneau 349 • $169,000

Don Smith

Curt Bagley

Broker Wanted!

JANUARY 2025

Don Smi