2021 ALASKA VISITORS' GUIDE by Anchorage Daily News

A L ASK A VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2021

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SIGHTSEEING BY WATER AND AIR

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CANNABIS: A CONSUMER’S GUIDE

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VISITING DENALI NATIONAL PARK

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EXPLORE ARTS AND CULTURE

Be inspired by the light of the Aurora Borealis. Renew your energy under the Midnight Sun. Experience the warmth of Fairbanks—Alaska’s Golden Heart—and the basecamp to Denali, Interior and Arctic Alaska. Make the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center your first stop as you explore Fairbanks responsibly. Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center 101 Dunkel Street • Downtown Fairbanks

www.explorefairbanks.com (907) 456-5774

TIME TO ENJOY ALL THE MAJESTY ALASKA HAS TO OFFER DEAR READERS, Welcome to Alaska — you made it! Whether you’re catching up on postponed 2020 travels or setting out according to plan, we are glad you’re here. After a tough year for all of us, the state is emerging from the winter looking forward to brightening days. Businesses are open, towns are reviving, days are getting longer and events are returning for the summer. We’re ready to get back to showing off everything that Alaska has to offer.

The almost full moon floats above the Kenai Mountains across Turnagain Arm as seen from the inside of a sea cave near the Seward Highway on Summer Solstice. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

Of course, with the COVID-19 pandemic still an ongoing concern, things can change quickly. We encourage you to check ahead on any event, tour or business before you set out. And while communitywide mask mandates have largely lifted as of May 2021, including in Anchorage, different facilities and businesses may have different requirements for their patrons. Bring your mask along and kindly respect the wishes of local proprietors and community members. After a year of great challenges, we hope

that your trip to Alaska leaves you refreshed, inspired and dreaming of your return. And remember — you can always stay up to date on what’s happening throughout the state by visiting the Anchorage Daily News online for the best in local journalism.

— VICTORIA BARBER Editor

ANCHORAGE 38 / Exploring Anchorage’s terrific trail system

VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2021

39 / Anchorage’s vibrant coffee culture

CONTENTS 6 / GLACIERS Get close to some ice 9

24 / WRANGELL ST. ELIAS Exploring Kennecott Mine and more

/ FLIGHTSEEING 12 / BOAT TRIPS Alaska by water

28 / MARIJUANA A Tourist’s Guide to Legal Marijuana in Alaska

14 / FISHING Where fishing dreams come true

PRODUCTION COORDINATOR

48 / A guide to Alaska breweries

57 / ALASKA FESTIVALS Music, food and fun

22 / WILDLIFE See wild animals up close

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

46 / A wealth of arts and culture

36 / TRAILS Great hikes near Anchorage

18 / DENALI See North America’s tallest peak

EDITOR

44 / Downtown Anchorage packs a lot in a small area

26 / HIKING Tips, etiquette and safety

Alaska by air

PUBLISHER

40 / Searching for Alaska’s finest bites? Start with seafood

VALDEZ 50 / Endless options await

JUNEAU 52 / Visiting is a capital idea

FAIRBANKS 55 / Land of spectacular extremes

MAT-SU • EAGLE RIVER 58 / Art and adventure abound

KODIAK • SOUTHEAST 60 / Life on the water’s edge

GIRDWOOD • WHITTIER • SEWARD 62 / The best of Alaska in one scenic roadtrip

KENAI PENINSULA 65 / Explore Hope, Seward, Soldotna, Kenai and Homer

AD DIRECTOR

Andy Pennington

SALES

Victoria Barber Nina Wladkowski Michael Oldroyd

GRAPHIC DESIGN PHOTO EDITOR

Brandi Nelson Karen Edes, Kiera Clark, Krystyna Rickett, Ryan Estrada, Sarah James, Victoria Hansen Kevin Powell Anne Raup

COVER PHOTO CONTRIBUTORS

Bob Hallinen Laurel Andrews, Mollie Barnes, Bailey Berg, Mike Campbell, Erik Hill, Zack Fields, Robert Gant, Bob Hallinen, Loren Holmes, Marc Lester, Josh Niva, Katie Pesznecker, Bill Roth, Jenna Schnuer, Mara Severin

TION

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STATE of ALASKA DEPARTMENT of TRANSPORTATION & PUBLIC FACILITIES

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Wander through walls of ice with a Matanuska Glacier Park guide. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

WANT TO GET UP CLOSE TO A GLACIER? HERE’S WHERE TO GO IN SOUTHCENTRAL ALASKA the glacier. Crevasses especially are not always visible. If you want to trek on the surface of a glacier, you need to either know what you are doing — i.e. be an experienced outdoorsperson with training in glacier travel — or hire a hether you live in Alaska or guide. are visiting, glaciers are one of If you are on a kayak or boat near a glacier, the state’s most awe-inspiring stay half a mile away, as glaciers shift and calve and unique attractions. Alaska without warning and create massive waves, is, after all, home to most of the glaciers in the Dalpes said. Land on a beach at least a mile United States. from a glacier, and camp 2 miles away. There are glacier trips for people of all ages When walking around the toe, where and abilities. We narrowed those trips down the glacier ends, keep a distance of twice to the glaciers under 150 miles — or a two- to the glacier’s height. Same goes for paddling three-hour drive — from Anchorage. around an iceberg. But before we get to the adventures, let’s talk And keep in mind — some of these glaciers briefly about glacier safety. may be hard to access depending on the time Michelle Dalpes, a park ranger at Denali of year you visit. Make sure to contact local National Park and Preserve, urges all glacier visitors centers for information on current travelers to bring warm, layered clothes, sturdy conditions. shoes or boots, and a windbreak layer. Glaciers Got it? Phew. Now for the fun stuff. are colder than surrounding areas, and often Disclaimer: This list explores some of the windy. most popular glaciers and ways to see them, Walking on glaciers can be dangerous but for brevity’s sake it does not include unless — and sometimes even if — you have many of the tour operators that offer hikes, proper training and equipment. boat trips, scenic flights, kayaking, etc. More “Ice is unpredictable,” Dalpes said. information about tours can be found with a Crevasses and moulins (deep holes) form in simple online search.

By L A U R E L A N D R E W S

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PORTAGE VALLEY About an hour’s drive from Anchorage on the Seward Highway is Portage Valley and the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center. Two glaciers are easily accessible in the valley. Byron Glacier is considered highly accessible for all ages. The 1.4-mile trail is a flat, easy walk. The first half is well-maintained, with a wide path. The second half is rocky, and to get closer to the glacier, visitors must cross boulders and small streams. Then there’s Portage Glacier. The glacier has receded out of view from the visitor center, but in the summer there’s a daily cruise and a pull-off where you can see the glacier from the road. A little farther down the road, Portage Pass trail is a 4-mile round-trip hike with glacier views. During the winter, frozen Portage Lake is a popular spot for skiers and bikers traveling to the toe of the glacier. There are no park rangers around in case of emergency, though, so traverse the ice at your own risk. Please note: The Begich, Boggs Visitor Center was closed for the 2020 summer season. Check the center’s website for up-to-date information, on.adn.com/3eUY49H.

WHITTIER AND PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND Continue down Portage Glacier Road another few miles — including a trip through the 2.5-mile-long Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel — and you wind up in the town of Whittier. Whittier is the launching point for many cruises in Prince William Sound, which boasts more tidewater glaciers than any other region in North America. (Valdez is another launching spot, about a five-hour drive from Anchorage.) Columbia, Meares and Blackstone glaciers are just three of the oft-visited glaciers in the area. There are many different types of tours, kayaking opportunities and public-use cabins in Prince William Sound.

Kids explore the waterline at Spencer Lake with a good view of Spencer Glacier and some of its icebergs. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

SPENCER GLACIER About 60 miles southeast of Anchorage, Spencer Glacier is only accessible via the Alaska Railroad’s Glacier Discovery Train, which runs daily from May 29 through Sept. 6 in 2021. Visitors get off at the Spencer Whistle Stop in Chugach National Forest at 1:45 p.m. You can hike about 1.3 miles one way to the glacier viewing platform, or another 1.7 miles to the edge of the glacier (but be mindful of getting back to the train in time for the 4:40 p.m. pickup). Hike on your own or take a hike guided by a U.S. Forest Service ranger. Campsites and a cabin are open mid-June and can be reserved through the railroad. Tour operators offer guided kayaking, ice climbing or trips down the Placer River. The route continues past Spencer Glacier to Grandview, where Bartlett and Trail glaciers can be seen. There’s a short, 20-minute stop before the train loops around and heads back to Anchorage. A train ride to Seward has the same glacier views. Trips from Anchorage to Spencer Glacier begin May 29, 2021; the full route starts June 5.

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EKLUTNA About an hour northeast of Anchorage is Eklutna Glacier, which provides most of the drinking water for Alaska’s largest city. Part of Chugach State Park, Eklutna Lake Campground has a large campsite, bike and kayak rentals, and a trail system that leads out to the glacier. Glacier access is a bit of a journey — to get up close, take the Eklutna Lakeside Trail, 12.9 miles one way. The path follows the shore of the lake, then to the river and glacier. Alternatively, the Bold Ridge Trail is about 4 miles long with a steep 3,600-foot elevation gain that rewards you with glacier views.

MATANUSKA GLACIER The Matanuska Glacier is about a two-hour drive on the Glenn Highway northeast of Anchorage. It’s touted as one of the few major ice sheets in the world that visitors can drive to and explore on foot. The glacier itself is gigantic — about 26 miles long and 4 miles wide at its terminus. The Matanuska Glacier State Recreation Area has 12 campsites, and a 20-minute walk to glacier-viewing platforms, but no direct access to the glacier. The only road-accessible route direct to the glacier face is through property owned by Matanuska Glacier Park LLC. Tours are sold out of a gift shop and information center. Then, it’s a short drive and hike to reach the glacier. According to owner Bill Stevenson, Glacier Park will only allow access via guided tours for visitors in the 2021 summer season (with the exception of experienced outdoors people). It’s worth calling ahead to confirm pricing, but as of this writing, the cost for the tours is $65 for out-of-state visitors and $35 for Alaska residents (907-745-2534).

SOUTH FORK VALLEY TRAIL The South Fork Valley Trail is an easy- to moderate-level hike to Eagle and Symphony Lakes in Eagle River, about half an hour east of Anchorage. The hike is about 12 miles round-trip. Flute Glacier can be reached by hiking to Eagle Lake, then heading another 4 miles up the valley to the toe of the glacier.

TALKEETNA A little over two hours north of Anchorage, the town of Talkeetna is the staging point for climbers heading to Denali. It also has flightseeing options for those who want to bask in the splendor of North America’s tallest peak without climbing it. There are hundreds of unnamed glaciers on Denali, and 40 named ones, according to the National Park Service. The longest ones

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A runner competing in the Crow Creek Crossing is dwarfed by Raven Glacier as he crosses the pass. PHOTO BY DARON DEAN

— Ruth, Kahiltna and Muldrow — each span more than 30 miles. Multiple Talkeetna air taxi operators offer trips around the mountain. Some land on the different glaciers.

SEWARD Exit Glacier is the only glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park accessible by road. The Exit Glacier Nature Center is the starting point for a system of trails leading to the glacier. Those wanting more can make the strenuous 8.2-mile round-trip hike up the Harding Icefield Trail for spectacular views of the massive ice field. There’s also a 12-site, tents-only campground near the nature center. Exit Glacier Road is only open to cars during the summer, usually mid-May. In the winter, snow machines, skiers, dog sleds and fat bikes are still allowed on the road. Then, there’s the rest of Kenai Fjords National Park. The park website highlights Bear Glacier Lagoon and boat tours that take visitors along the park’s tidewater glaciers.

KNIK RIVER Excursions to Knik Glacier in the Matanuska-Susitna Borough have exploded in popularity during the winter, with fat-tire bikers taking a northern route that crosses a river. Summer access comes by way of Knik Glacier Trail. There’s an 8-mile trail starting from Knik Glacier Tours that requires river crossings. Biking and boating are common. Tours are also offered through Knik River

Lodge. There’s also flightseeing available to Knik and Colony Glacier.

CROW PASS TRAIL AND RAVEN GLACIER Raven Glacier can be seen on the 23-mile Crow Pass Trail, which has trailheads at Girdwood (40 miles from Anchorage on the Seward Highway ) and the Eagle River Nature Center (about 26 miles east of Anchorage). This hike is recommended from late June to early September due to snow and avalanche danger. For a glacier view with an 8-mile round trip, start from Girdwood’s Crow Creek trailhead. Hikers follow a series of switchbacks uphill, passing Jewel Glacier to the east of Crow Pass Cabin, and eventually arrive at Crow Pass and Raven Glacier. Hikers can continue on past the glacier, or turn around.

HATCHER PASS About 80 minutes north of Anchorage is the Hatcher Pass Management Area, a popular recreational area. The Gold Mint Trail is a 16-mile round-trip journey that follows the Little Susitna River to the Mint Glacier Valley, where at the end, hikers can follow a fairly undeveloped trail up to Mint Glacier. There’s also good glacier viewing — and traversing — on the multiday Mint-Bomber Traverse for more advanced outdoor explorers.

NO VIEW IS MORE EPIC THAN THE ONE YOU’LL FIND ON AN ALASKA FLIGHTSEEING TOUR By M I K E C A M P B E L L

663,268 square miles, Alaska is by far the biggest state in the union. But only four states have fewer road miles. It makes sense that perhaps the best way to see Alaska — especially for visitors with limited time — is by air on one of the charters that specialize in flights into the rugged and spectacular Alaska Range. You’ll enter the wilderness cathedral of mountains surrounding 20,310-foot Denali, the tallest peak in North America, and perhaps land on one of the mountain’s glaciers. Prices for flightseeing vary widely, from about $250 to $800 — or more, depending on the length of the trip, the departure point and whether the tour includes a landing. That might seem steep, but on a bluebird day, few trips deliver such gawk-worthy moments as you soar past sheer granite faces and above glaciers. “Flightseeing is getting more and more popular in Alaska,” said Tony Bannock of Regal Air, based in Anchorage. “It’s the way of the world. When we started (in 1982) everybody wanted to hunt and fish. Now, it’s ecotourism.” He’s not alone in that view. In 2017, according to The McDowell Group’s Economic Impact of the Alaska Visitor Industry, all visitor tours (including flightseeing) accounted for $394 million in visitor spending. “Talkeetna has become a destination,”

Journey above glaciers, gorges and peaks on a flightseeing tour for unique views of Alaska’s landscape. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

BEAR VIEWING - FLIGHT FLIGHTSEEING - FISHING

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said Suzanne Rust, co-owner of Rust’s Flying Service, which purchased Talkeetna’s K2 Aviation in 1996. “People are discovering it’s a cool little village. At the same time, they can fly up and see all the granite walls and rivers of ice (in the Alaska Range). On clear days perfect for flying, Rust noted, K2 has been known to make more than four dozen Denali flights. And while Denali may be Alaska’s bestknown flightseeing tour, visitors’ aerial options don’t end there. Dozens of Alaska business licenses describe their operation as “scenic and sightseeing transportation,” according to a state database. Here are a few options:

BEAR VIEWING Rust’s and Regal are among the Anchorage flight services that cross Cook Inlet to Chinitna Bay in Lake Clark National Park and the Brooks River in Katmai National Park in search of brown bears feeding on salmon. Bear-viewing trips are available out of Homer and Kodiak, too. Typically, Regal pilots make early-season scouting flights. Usually, the grizzlies are up and about by May 10, and the season runs into September. The company provides a preflight safety briefing in Anchorage. At Brooks, the brown bears may walk beneath the boardwalk (spanning the river). But passengers never approach closer than 50 feet.

KNIK GLACIER Knik River Lodge glacier tours start less than 60 miles from Anchorage, leaving from Knik River Lodge at the end of Knik River Road in the Matanuska-Susitna Borough. The lodge’s front lawn doubles as a helipad for helicopters that take groups of two or three people to the Knik Glacier, a five-minute flight away. Perhaps the most popular trip is dog sledding on the glacier after a landing. En route, you’ll see the Knik Glacier in all its glory as well as Lake George and a couple of the feeder glaciers.

GIRDWOOD GRANDEUR Less than an hour south of Anchorage is the ski and recreation community of Girdwood. Alpine Air, operating since 1991, will fly you above the Mount Alyeska tram to land on glaciers or to Prince William Sound in search of calving glacial ice. In peak season, helicopters depart regularly from the Girdwood Airport. You can take a 30-minute flight, but the 60-minute tour with a landing on Colony Glacier ($399 per person; 2-person minimum) is even more fun. A walk on the

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glacier — and a sip from a glacial stream — will help you cool off in summer months. Another option is an Alpine Air flight out of Seward to inspect the magnificent tidewater glaciers of Kenai Fjords National Park.

WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is the nation’s largest national park, featuring 14 of the 20 tallest peaks in North America. You can take a regularly scheduled flight from Chitina to McCarthy on the edge of the park to avoid driving the gravelsurfaced McCarthy Road, which is slow going (allow up to three hours) but scenic; flying in from Chitina is typically even more spectacular. A Wrangell Mountain Air flight may take you into the mountains and through the Fourth of July Pass if weather permits. You’ll see rock glaciers and maybe some critters. On the other side of the pass is giant Root Glacier. You’ll fly right past the old copper mine structures in neighboring Kennecott before landing in McCarthy. Flights range from 50 minutes ($250) to two hours ($395). Drivers park at the McCarthy footbridge, where you’ll make your way over to the airport and fly from there.

COLUMBIA GLACIER (VALDEZ) The 400-square-mile Columbia tidewater glacier has retreated nearly a dozen miles since 1982, but there’s still plenty of ice, and the warming climate has triggered a surge of calving, during which large pieces of ice break off and splash into Prince William Sound. A convenient way to see it is to book a flight to Valdez with Ravn Alaska. Try to get a window seat on the left side of the plane. When you land in Valdez, you can circle back by boat on a charter for a Columbia Glacier view from the water. Other Valdez flight services offer tours of Columbia and the Valdez Glacier as well.

JUNEAU Commercial flights into the state capital of Juneau can offer great views of Mendenhall Glacier. But several companies offer helicopter tours, typically an hour or two. And if you want a double-shot of Alaskan on a single trip, book one that includes dog sledding on a glacier. Most helicopter tours require that three seats be booked before the flight, potentially an issue if you’re traveling alone or as a couple. According to Juneau Shore Tours, the most

sought-after Juneau flightseeing option, the Icefield Excursion, is recommended for those looking to see Alaska from a bird’s eye view but not necessarily interested in dogsledding. TEMSCO Helicopters offers an array of trips, too. On most of the tours, you’ll get a nice view of downtown Juneau, including the popular Mount Roberts Tramway, which leaves from the cruise port. On most trips, you’ll see the exposed deep-blue ice that’s the face of Taku Glacier, a sharp contrast to the muddy Taku River.

DENALI Those are some highlights for Alaska flightseers, but Denali trips remain at the top of many must-see lists. You can catch a flight right out of Anchorage, but that’s more expensive than driving north to Talkeetna and flying with K2 Aviation, Talkeetna Air Taxi or Sheldon Air Service. The companies offer a selection of tours that include views of the Ruth Glacier, the Wickersham Wall, the climbers’ base camp at Kantishna Glacier and the Denali summit (weather permitting). Particularly memorable is a tour that includes a glacier landing. Most pilots favor Ruth Glacier, because it is so spectacular and the runway is well-marked. But the clouds move in and out quickly, so several other glaciers are available if the Ruth is socked in. “Alaska Range weather certainly is the crux of our business, with every year unique,” said Paul Roderick, who’s owned Talkeetna Air Taxi since 1996. “Some seasons are dry and sunny with at least 20 good flying days per month. Others have the opposite effect, 20 wet days.” “The mountain is almost like a living, breathing organism,” said Roderick, who’s flown in the Alaska Range for decades. “Hopefully you don’t ever get too comfortable with it. It doesn’t matter how many years of flying you have, the conditions are always changing up there — the visibility, lighting, blowing snow, fog. It’s never the same.” While a little more spendy, helicopter flightseeing offer an alternative. Enclosed in Plexiglas with no wings to peer over, even trips as short as 30 minutes can provide exceptional views. Wherever you want to see, there’s probably a flightseeing business nearby. Among the locales where tours are offered: Kenai, Soldotna, Tok, McCarthy, Homer, Girdwood, King Salmon, Talkeetna, Juneau, Ketchikan, Fairbanks, Skagway and Kantishna.

Soar over the Tokositna and Ruth glaciers on a breathtaking flightseeing tour of Denali. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

WHETHER IT’S ON A BOAT TOUR, RAFT OR KAYAK, GET ON THE WATER AND SOAK UP SOME SCENERY Paddlers try out different forms of paddling, including, from left, canoeing, stand-up paddle boarding, and kayaking at Goose Lake. PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

By M I K E C A M P B E L L

ne dependable way to escape crowds of Alaska summertime visitors is simple. Just get wet. When you see the 49th state from the water — whether aboard a tour boat, paddling a kayak, renting a powerboat, or moseying around a lake on a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) — you won’t be trading elbows with anyone. And what’s not to like? You can still see wildlife, glaciers and mountains soaring above the water. Or soak up quiet of a cool July evening paddling on a Southcentral Alaska lake, watching a green-winged teal paddle with her chicks in tow. Options are plentiful.

BOAT TOURS Human-powered trips in rafts or kayaks are rewarding, but to see the most glaciers and marine mammals, consider a boat tour in Resurrection Bay or Prince William Sound. They’re accessible to people of all ages and abilities. 12

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Major Marine Tours has cruises in Kenai Fjords National Park out of Seward from 3½ to 8½ hours on vessels ranging from large catamarans to much smaller ships. Many of them include onboard narration by a National Park Service ranger, turning a pleasure cruise into a learning opportunity. In Prince William Sound, Blackstone Bay or Harriman Fjord both have glaciers that descend from extensive icefields to the ocean. Marine mammals including otters, seals and whales are usually visible. Although a full-day Prince William Sound trip is pricier than a short trip, you usually see much more. Phillips 26 Glacier Cruise, which sails through Oct. 3, travels up College Fjord, taking in views of the perilously steep glaciers that cascade down from Mount Marcus Baker, the highest peak in the Chugach, before traveling through Harriman Fjord. For nervous flatlanders, the company offers what it calls a “no seasickness guarantee.” Family-owned Lazy Otter Charters, now in its 26th season, offers a convenient five-hour trip in the Sound, including the spectacular waterfalls of Blackstone Bay. Kenai Fjords Tours has an array of trips in Resurrection Bay, including a dinner cruise, which delivers breathtaking scenery

of towering peaks and hanging glaciers above Seward. A tour to Northwestern Fjord is popular — you’re likely to see puffins, sea lions and whales, as well as tidewater glaciers plunging from the Harding Icefield. At around $180 for a full day cruising, you probably aren’t paying more than you would to buy gas for your own boat. In spring, a four-hour tour that includes lunch is designed to offer a glimpse of gray whales migrating from the Baja in Mexico to their summer feeding grounds in the Arctic.

WHITEWATER RAFTING Have a hankering to paddle whitewater? Consider a trip with NOVA on the Matanuska River. Lion’s Head, a section of Class III-IV whitewater that cascades between towering cliffs and the Matanuska Glacier’s terminal moraine, is particularly scenic and thrilling. If you prefer a mellower float, NOVA also runs trips through the easier rapids just downstream of Lion’s Head, a location that’s particularly stunning as the leaves change color in August. There’s even an evening raft trip to take advantage of Alaska’s long summer days.

If you’re headed toward the Kenai Peninsula and looking for a bigger adrenaline rush, consider a trip down the Class IV-V Six Mile Creek. Six Mile’s turquoise waters wind between overhanging cliff walls and hammer down intimidating rapids that drop 50 feet per mile and clients paddle under their guide’s supervision. It is one of the most intense guided raft trips you’ll find in the country, due to the powerful rapids on the creek. Only physically fit individuals who can swim well — occasionally people get flung out of the rafts — should sign up for this trip with NOVA or the Chugach Outdoor Center.

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The skies begin to clear following a rain shower as a kayak tour group returns to Miller’s Landing in Seward. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

SEA KAYAKING Though the Gulf of Alaska has some of the world’s worst maritime weather, there are often calm waters and spectacular sea kayaking near Anchorage. Consider a day trip to Resurrection or Kachemak Bay or plan an overnighter to Prince William Sound to observe whales, otters, sea lions, glaciers and towering peaks. To paddle in Resurrection Bay, you might drive to near the road’s end and rent kayaks from Miller’s Landing, which is conveniently located for an easy paddle out to Caines Head and back. Expect to see marine mammals and spectacular sea arches. In Kachemak Bay, Mako’s Water Taxi offers a 20-minute ride across Kachemak Bay. From there you can paddle around Yukon, Grass and the Herring Islands. Mako’s runs trips all day, so you can head out in the morning, paddle for a few hours and come back in the evening. Prince William Sound has one of the most underrated sea kayak trips in the region: an out-and-back paddle to Decision Point, 9 miles each way. Make sure to check the weather before embarking on any sea kayaking trip, and don’t head out unless the marine forecast calls for calm seas (2 feet or less). The marine forecast is easy to find: On weather.gov, simply click on the body of water you plan on visiting.

STAND-UP PADDLEBOARD Rent a board and take a lesson to see whether you’ve got the balance, strength and aptitude for stand-up paddle-boarding. Among the Southcentral companies marketing boards are Liquid Adventures in Seward; Alaska Rivers Company in Cooper Landing, which takes clients to Kenai Lake and Portage Lake; Alaska Paddleboard Guru in Anchorage and Eagle River; and True North Adventures in Homer. What’s the appeal? “The experience of essentially standing on a lake, my feet inches from the surface, gave me a new perspective,” wrote Alaska outdoors columnist Alli Harvey of her inaugural paddle. “It felt playful, a feeling I don’t readily access as an adult since so much of what I do outside is structured — I’m going for an hourlong run; I’m going to ride my bike to the grocery store, etc.”

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POWERBOAT RENTALS If you’ve got a need for speed and a fat checkbook, you can rent a powerboat from such businesses as Whittier Marine Charters. Oneday rates start at $650 and go up from there. Big Lake Boat Rentals in the Mat-Su north of Anchorage also has pontoons for an easygoing tour of the 145-square-mile lake — and jet skis for those with a need for speed. Note: Unless you’re aboard a big cruise ship, expect to get wet when you take to Alaska’s waterways.

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ensational silvers and killer kings. Trophy-worthy trout and fantastically finned grayling. Hearty halibut and rewarding reds. It’s a lineup of Alaska’s finest fishing action and these spectacular species — and many more — are all within casting distance, driving distance and short-flight distance of Anchorage. Yes, Alaska’s largest, busiest and most populated urban hub is also a fishing fantasy come to life … and that isn’t a fishing tale. Even the most secretive fisherman will brag about this fishery, and it couldn’t be kept secret anyway: Anchorage is a mainstay on any “America’s Best Fishing Cities” list. “You can go fishing just about anywhere in Anchorage,” Dan Bosch said in a 2018 interview. Bosch is a passionate fisherman, now retired from a longtime role at Alaska Department of Fish and Game, most recently as regional management coordinator for the Anchorage area, among other Alaska regions. “It’s some of the best fishing around. And the accessibility — it’s so easy. Right at your doorstep.” For Alaska visitors, that includes hotel doorsteps. The community is covered in streams, creeks and lakes that are packed and stocked with tens of thousands of fun, fighting fish. And there are seemingly endless fishing options around Southcentral Alaska that are just a short and scenic drive or flight away. Sport fishing is a year-round activity in Anchorage and Alaska, but the action surges in summer. From May to September, the fish counts are high, the midnight sun is warm and bright, and fishermen are giddy. Where should you wet a line? Around Anchorage, practically anywhere there’s water, there are fish. Many of these fishing holes also offer peace, quiet and the natural vibe of wild Alaska. As you cast and relax, it’s easy to forget you’re in Alaska’s biggest city.

SHIP CREEK - ANCHORAGE One of Anchorage’s most exciting fishing

holes is set in one of the city’s most popular hospitality hot spots — downtown. Ship Creek carves across the northern side of Anchorage, passing by the William Jack Hernandez Hatchery before depositing downtown into picturesque Cook Inlet. It’s a beautiful natural oasis on the edge of Anchorage’s cityscape. Its water is home to a constant run of summer salmon — kings early in the season, silvers (coho) later — and its banks are usually bustling with fishermen. “Right downtown you can fish for king salmon and coho salmon,” said Bosch, himself a Ship Creek regular who has worked and fished the Anchorage area for decades. “If you haven’t fished there before, just watch what everyone is doing, if they’re using eggs or spinners, and where they are setting up along the creek.”

URBAN HOT SPOTS Ship Creek might be the most visible venue, but incredible fishing opportunities abound in every corner of town and every direction of Southcentral Alaska. Anchorage lakes (Campbell, DeLong, Jewel, Mirror, Sand Lake) are loaded, and creeks (Bird, Campbell and Ship) and rivers (Eagle and Eklutna) are crammed with an array of fish: from several freshwater and landlocked salmon species to Dolly Varden/Arctic char and awesome Arctic grayling. Chester Creek runs through the center of town and can be great for rainbow trout (8-12 inches!), too.

OUTSIDE ANCHORAGE ACTION ROAD TRIP REELING Anchorage is also the jumping-off point for fishing adventures all over Southcentral Alaska and beyond. A short drive or quick hike in practically any direction from urban Anchorage adds more casting spots. For nextlevel groundfish and salmon fishing, drive south for an hour (Prince William Sound out of Whittier) or two (Resurrection Bay out of Seward on the Kenai Peninsula) or five (Kachemak Bay out of Homer on the Kenai Peninsula), or drive north for 30 minutes to two hours (Matanuska-Susitna Borough). Some of Alaska’s — and the world’s —

Reel in a whopper of a salmon mere steps from downtown Anchorage on the banks of Ship Creek.

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PHOTO BY RUGILE KALADYTE

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most exciting salmon fishing goes down on the Kenai Peninsula, a few hours’ drive south of Anchorage, where the Kenai, Russian, Anchor and Kasilof rivers flow flush with fish. This is action-packed angling for Alaska’s salmon species. It can also be combat fishing at its gnarliest. When the fish are running, anglers line the banks, practically shoulder to shoulder, while locals and guides motor boats up and down the rivers, homing in on the hot spots. For most, all the work is worth it when they land one of Alaska’s bright and hard-fighting salmon, creating photo-worthy moments that will be social media profi le shots for years. The fishing is also exciting in port towns like Whittier, Seward and Homer, which are all a beautiful drive south of Anchorage. There, you can cast from the banks for salmon, but you’ll improve your odds and your options by jumping aboard a charter boat to chase the big, bad, barn door halibut and cruise along salmon runs as they return to their freshwater spawning grounds. Catching a big halibut is tough work, but it’s a different kind of fish fight. Instead of running and splashing, these flat lunkers are more likely to play like dead weight as you slowly reel them up from the dark of the ocean bottom. They sometimes freak when they surface and see daylight, but handy deckhands are ready with a net and/or a gaff to snatch the flopping fish. The port town of Valdez is an even longer drive away, but the roads there are about as scenic (glaciers, mountains, wildlife,

waterfalls) as it gets and once you’ve arrived, the fishing is equally impressive. Point your vehicle north from Anchorage and you’ll soon have awe-inspiring Denali looming large in your windshield, guiding you toward the glacier-carved and fish-fi lled Matanuska-Susitna Borough. You’ll also find exciting fishing all around the Mat-Su, some less than an hour from Anchorage, some a little farther. When the salmon are running, the region’s rivers are slamming, especially the Deshka River, Willow Creek, Susitna Rivers, Eklutna Tailrace and Montana Creek. If you prefer a slower pace, there are dozens of lakes packed with grayling, trout, Arctic char and landlocked salmon; favorites include Nancy Lake, Big Lake, Rolly Lakes and Knik Lake. If you like lakes, consider packing a lunch and your gear, renting a canoe and soaking up the midnight sun and the peace of the Alaska outdoors.

ACTION OFF THE ROAD SYSTEM FLY-IN FISHING If you’ve come all the way to Alaska to chase fish, you might as well dial up the fun to a once-in-a-lifetime experience by booking a fly-in fishing adventure. From Anchorage, floatplanes, skilled pilots and savvy guides will get you to the fish in high flying fashion. Often, you’ll take off in a floatplane from Anchorage’s Lake Hood, which buzzes

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with around-the-clock activity during Southcentral’s warm, bright summers. If you think the takeoff from the lake is thrilling, what until the landing! And that’s just the start of the fun. (Of course, more conventional plane rides are available; you could even fly commercial to great fishing towns like Cordova, Ketchikan, Juneau and more.) What do you want to catch? A fighting salmon? A plump trout? A vicious pike? All of the above? Your guides have you covered. How long do you want to cast? Half-day, fullday and multiday trips are available. Want to go really big? Hook up with an outfit that will get you to a remote, fly-in lodge, where you can spend your days fishing until your arm is sore from casting and your nights recovering like royalty in massive cabin-like lodge. This is the ultimate in Alaska fishing experiences.

FISHING FACTOIDS Overwhelmed by the options? Too excited to think clearly? Contact Fish and Game in person, on the ADF&G Sport Fish Information Center phone line (907-2672218) or online (adfg.license@alaska.gov or the Fishing section of adfg.alaska.gov) for questions about fishing, licenses, regulations

or anything else Anchorage or Alaska fishing related. Fish and Game’s We Fish AK and Go Fish AK sport fishing websites are especially helpful for ambitious anglers. The Sport Fish Information Center (333 Raspberry Road) provides up-to-date information on all the fisheries. You can even borrow fishing gear. There are also area fishing blogs and message boards, friendly fishermen and retailers who are happy share tips while you shop for tackle or gear. Lures and lines, rods and reels — the choices are endless. But there’s one piece of equipment fishermen (residents 18 or older and nonresidents age 16 or older) must carry: a sport fishing license. Nonresidents have many fishing license options, from one-day ($15) to 14-day ($75) to annual ($100). If you are on a quest for a king, you will also need a king salmon tag, which runs an additional $15 for one day and up to $100 for an annual stamp. For residents, there are numerous license options for different fishermen (military, low income, senior citizens, blind), so do your research. For the savvy shopper, many license prices have dropped from prior seasons following a dip in sales during the pandemic. Note: You might see or hear about Alaskans slaying the salmon and filling the freezers

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VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2021

while dipnetting. Yes, it can be an awesome and fruitful fishing experience, but only Alaska residents are legally allowed to do it. Alaska sport fishing licenses are available at most sporting goods shops, even many grocery and convenience stores, and online, of course. It’s also a fisherman’s responsibility to know regulations, which are easily available in print and online. Bosch said the key to figuring it out is to read the general regulations for each region (example: the Anchorage area), then look for site-specific regulations for streams (example: Ship Creek). In other words, know where you are fishing and what you are fishing for. Oh, and always be bear aware — clean your fish and dispose of fish waste responsibly. If you’re plotting a chartered or guided fishing experience, whether by road, boat or plane, shop around. Most reputable charter companies have years of experience and are easy to study up on via their websites and social media. Find a perfect fishing fit by being specific about what you want to catch, how long you want to fish, and how much you want to spend. One charter fishing bonus: It often comes with sightseeing in some of Alaska’s most incredible landscapes and wildlife, including water wonders like whales, orcas, porpoises

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and countless seabirds. And don’t forget the bevy of fishing derbies that take place all summer in regions across Alaska. Catching a trophy fish in Alaska is memory making; neglecting to buy a derby ticket and then landing a potentially winning fish is heartbreaking.

SPORTFISHING THROUGH THE PANDEMIC As the COVID pandemic devastated the physical, financial and mental health of millions of Americans last year, many found a respite in reeling as fishing, the original social distancing sport, experienced a sharp increase in popularity and participation. People spent more time playing outside and shaking off the hunker-down blues in 2020, so it’s no surprise that the lure of sportfishing rode an upward spike along with other outdoor recreational activities and industries that took off during the pandemic (biking, skiing, camping). And when 2020 turned into the summer of the Alaska Staycation for residents, many sought out fishing fun. “I think the majority of Alaskans were happy to have the opportunity and distraction from the COVID situation – everyone was eager to get some fresh air and take advantage of what we have locally,” said Jay Baumer,

Sports Fisheries Manager Biologist with the Alaska Department of Fish & Game who manages the Anchorage, Prince William Sound and North Gulf Coast regions. “And a lot of Alaskans, because they maybe had a little more time on their hands, were driving a little further, going to new fisheries, and really enjoying going fishing. And with nonresident numbers down, crowds were smaller in a lot of places, too.” Alaska resident fishing license sales were up in 2020, mirroring a national trend. There were more than 95,000 resident sports fishing licenses sold in 2020, the highest total since 2016 and up from 89,313 in 2019 and 85,956 in 2018. Resident King Salmon stamps were especially hot tickets. Conversely, 2020 nonresident license sales were down dramatically, undoubtably due to travel restrictions and concerns: while 121,439 1-day nonresident Alaska sport fishing licenses were purchased in 2019, only 33,463 were bought in 2020. That meant calmer casual fishing conditions around the state, but also that Alaska’s sportfishing charter operators and guides who rely on tourists as their main source of business had to negotiate difficult waters to stay afloat. “It was a mixed bag, from what I heard – some guides were able to accommodate the

mandates, other had difficulty, but I do know that business was not as strong as previous years and there was definitely financial hurt,” said Baumer. “A lot of their normal clientele are tourists, so many charters adjusted their seasons and rates, and also targeted residents to maintain their businesses.” Baumer is hopeful that with travel complications calming and life slowly swimming toward normalcy, the 2021 fishing season could reflect last year’s interest by locals while starting a fresh nonresident fishing run, too. He added, “This coming season, we hope to have an increase in travelers coming back to the state and getting back out into the fisheries… And we’re very fortunate here in Southcentral, where we have so many diverse fisheries. You can go fishing for a wide variety of species and have different opportunities, whether it’s a remote experience or you just want the convenience of something nearby. We’ve got it all here, which is fantastic.” Baumer recommends visitors and residents alike spend time on the ADF&G’s sportfishing website – adfg.alaska.gov – for updates on everything from hot fishing spots, places to rent or buy gear, to potential COVID-19 restrictions. Fish on!

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DENALI NATIONAL PARK: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO By B A I L E Y B E R G

ure, Denali National Park and Preserve is named for the nation’s mightiest mountain, but the 6-million-acre park encompasses so much more. Denali has options for every type of visitor. Whether you’re an avid backpacker looking to forge new trails or a relaxed traveler content to watch for animals on a tour, you’re sure to experience jaw-dropping scenery. Note: This information is current as of April 2021. To check for any new closures or impacts in the park due to the COVID-19 pandemic, check the National Park Service site.

A visit to Denali National Park includes the drama of nature taken to new heights.

GETTING THERE

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

Located roughly four hours north of Anchorage

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VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2021

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Sightseeing on the Aerial Tram Seven Glaciers Restaurant

PHOTO BY STEPHEN NOWERS

and two hours south of Fairbanks on the George Parks Highway, it’s an easy drive to the heart of the state — after all, there’s only one road entrance to the park. If you don’t have your own wheels, here’s how to get there: BUS: One option is Alaska/Yukon Trails (907-452-3337), a passenger van company capable of transporting up to 16 passengers. They run from Anchorage to Talkeetna to Denali to Fairbanks, and the same route in reverse. Expect to leave town early for either departure and to get in around lunchtime. For a ride in a deluxe motorcoach, another option is The Park Connection (907-245-0200), where travelers can either book tickets from Anchorage or Seward. TRAIN: Taking the train adds about three hours of travel time to your journey, but it goes through wilderness only accessible on the track (plus, there’s a dining and bar car, knowledgeable guides and viewing-dome cars with sweeping views of the mountains and valleys along the way). The train makes a stop on the nearly 1,000-foot-long railroad bridge over an enormous gorge known as Hurricane Gulch. On a clear day, you can see Denali from there. (A more economical option both in terms of funds and time is taking the rails one way and a motorcoach back. Bonus:

You’ll see even more of the state.) Check out alaskarailroad.com for more information on riding the train.

Diverse Dining Options

GETTING AROUND The Park Service maintains the only road leading into the park. It’s a 92-mile, mostly gravel route running parallel to the Alaska Range to what was once the mining community of Kantishna. From late May to early September, visitors can drive the first 14 miles of the road to Savage River with just their park pass. New this year, visitors can access the Teklanika Rest Stop at mile 30, though it’s an additional $25 for that road permit and there will be a limited number of daily scheduled entries (reservations can be made through recreation.gov). To go farther, you have to be on foot, bike or riding on one of the school-bus-style shuttles. You can hop on a cheaper, more flexible bus tour that allows you to get off and on and explore on your own, or you can take a narrated bus tour with a driver who crafts an itinerary for you. There are also courtesy buses that serve the portion of the park road that is publicly driveable, which includes stops at the sled dog kennel and visitors center.

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Tourists gather at the Teklanika Rest Area to watch a couple of grizzly bears on the Teklanika River bed. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

‘WILL THE MOUNTAIN BE OUT?’: WHERE TO SEE DENALI Rising 20,310 feet, Denali can be seen from parts of Anchorage to Fairbanks on a clear day. But clear days can be hard to come by. National Park Service rangers stress to visitors that the mammoth mountain is only out one of every three days (a rule that isn’t hard and fast — it could be out for days at a time and then hidden for a month straight). Even with its great height, the mountain isn’t visible from the park entrance, the surrounding campgrounds or nearby hotels. Miles 9 and 11 are your first chances of spotting it, the latter spot having a pullout and interpretive waysides with information about the cliff. There are myriad other spots along the road that allow for peeks of the peak, though the most iconic view of Denali is at Reflection Pond, near Mile 85.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO SLED DOG KENNEL: Denali is the only national park in the U.S. where rangers do winter patrols via dog sled. But during the few precious months when there isn’t snow on the ground, the dogs have different duties: educating tourists, posing for pictures and getting belly rubs. Their kennel is free to visit, and their handlers are available to chat about what goes into making a sled dog. (Bonus: There’s usually a litter of puppies there training to become full-fledged sled dogs.) DENALI NATIONAL PARK VISITORS CENTER: If you come in by train, the visitors center will be one of the first buildings you see. It’s the main information center in the park, with exhibits on the park’s history and the animals you might see in the boreal forest outside its doors. There are also various ranger-led activities and hikes that launch from there. EIELSON VISITOR CENTER: Located at Mile 66, you can reach the Eielson Visitor Center by shuttle. On a clear day, the views of Denali 20

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VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2021

Celebrating Over 50 Years of Qiviut! • Qiviut is eight times warmer than wool • Finer and softer than cashmere • Traditional based village patterns • Hand knit by 200 Alaska Native indigenous members • Does not itch and will not shrink

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Denali is reflected in the surface of Willow Lake near Willow, off of the George Parks Highway. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

are stunning. Three maintained trails spider out from the center, though hikers are welcome to go off path. Inside the center is also a small art gallery with works depicting the wilderness of Denali. WONDER LAKE: This is where Ansel Adams’ famous photograph of the mountain was taken. When Denali isn’t shrouded in clouds, its image is mirrored in the water below, making Wonder Lake a favorite spot for photographers. ADVENTURE SPORTS AND FLIGHTSEEING: Various operators tout all manners of escape from their storefronts on Glitter Gulch, a half-mile stretch of road near the park entrance. Activities range from ATV rides and ziplining near the park to rafting down the Nenana River or flightseeing around the mountain. Shop around to find an itinerary that matches your interest and budget.

the national park, but they don’t skimp on creature comforts like running water, electricity, heat and private bathrooms (granted, there’s no WiFi or cell reception). Generally much spendier than the options at the park entrance, these lodges are usually all-inclusive. Outside the park, your options vary widely. Denali Park Salmon Bake Restaurant and Cabins offers simple, affordable rooms with private bathrooms, as well as basic dry cabins; Crow’s Nest is made up of terraced rows of cozy cabins tucked up on a hillside, offering exponentially better views of Mount Healy the higher you go; and Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge is one of the biggest lodging options with high-end amenities, including an espresso bar, a dinner theater and laundry services. More accommodation options can be found at denalichamber.com.

WHERE TO STAY THERE ARE SIX CAMPGROUNDS IN DENALI NATIONAL PARK: Riley Creek (at the park entrance), Savage River (13 miles in), Sanctuary River (23 miles), Teklanika River (29 miles), Igloo Creek (35 miles) and Wonder Lake (85 miles). The sites have anywhere from seven to 53 tent-only campsites, with the exception of Riley Creek, which has 150 sites suitable for camping and RVs. Considering how few campsites there are in the park, we highly recommended you make a reservation ahead of time. For more information, go to reservedenali.com. There are also many hotel, cabin, B&B and hostel options for visitors to Denali National Park. Many are clustered just outside the park entrance, a few are found at the end of the park road and more are located in neighboring towns. While remote, the accommodations at the end of the park road in Kantishna are far from roughing it. Places like Denali Backcountry Lodge, Kantishna Roadhouse and Camp Denali may be 92 miles into

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A bull moose walks across a small pond between the Seward Highway and the Alaska Railroad tracks at Potter Marsh in Anchorage. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

HERE’S HOW TO SEE MUSK OXEN, EAGLES, BEARS AND OTHER ALASKA WILDLIFE UP CLOSE — SAFELY By B A I L E Y B E R G

DALL SHEEP

he 49th state is home to an astounding variety of wildlife: Some species are present at the highest density anywhere in the world. These animals have the power to captivate locals and visitors alike; you’ll often see cars pulling over to get a closer look. Here are just a few for your bucket list and tips on where to scope them out.

MOOSE Locals will joke that moose are to Alaska what squirrels are to the Lower 48. While they’re not quite that ubiquitous, they do often show up where you’d least expect them — perusing a backyard garden, browsing shrubs in a grocery store parking lot or enjoying the long grass on the side of the highway. They’re hard to miss: Adult females weigh between 800 to 1,300 pounds and males tip the scales at 1,200 to 1,600 pounds.

BEARS Of the species of bear found in Alaska, the two you’re most likely to see are brown bears and black bears. Black bears, the smallest of the bunch, usually dwell in forested areas, but are also more likely to wander into town or pick through garbage cans. Brown bears, also called grizzlies, are spread throughout much of the state. A subspecies of brown bear, the Kodiak bear, is one of the largest kinds of bears and 22

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found exclusively in the Kodiak Archipelago. Then there’s the Arcticdwelling polar bear, found in coastal areas above the Arctic Circle and on the North Slope.

VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2021

Snow white with small, curved, golden-brown horns, this nimble subspecies of sheep thrives in mountainous terrain, where predators can’t reach and humans don’t bother them. You might see them high up on the near-vertical rock face of the Seward Highway — where they can sometimes distract drivers and present a traffic hazard. They’re also found throughout Chugach State Park and scattered around Denali National Park and Preserve.

SALMON Five kinds of salmon can be found in the rivers and streams of Alaska: sockeye (also called red), pink (aka humpy), king (or chinook), coho (silver) and chum (dog). During the summer months, salmon return from the sea to the waters where they were hatched. Their internal homing devices bring them remarkably close to where they entered the world, and that’s where they mate, spawn and die. You can watch their epic homecoming journeys throughout the state, though one of the easiest viewing areas, Ship Creek, runs through the heart of downtown Anchorage. There you can watch kings, coho and pink salmon charging upstream and eager anglers standing shoulder-toshoulder, trying to fi ll their freezers. Kings start running in late May through July and cohos claim the river from August through midSeptember.

An adult bald eagle feeds a pair of chicks on a nest in South Anchorage. These chicks hatched in mid May and were expected to be fully fledged by August. Fish is the main diet for bald eagles.

BALD EAGLES

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

Bald eagles, Alaska’s largest resident bird of prey with a wing span of up to 7.5 feet, are a frequent sight in the Last Frontier. Some towns, like Unalaska/Dutch Harbor, are practically overrun with this national emblem. It’s estimated that a whopping 30,000 bald eagles are in Alaska.

WHALES Take a boat in Prince William Sound or Resurrection Bay and, if the timing is right, you’ll see the tails of humpback, bowhead and gray whales waving in the distance. A few of the other kinds of whales in Alaska: beluga populations found in Cook Inlet and Turnagain Arm; bowheads, which come close to North Slope villages during their migration; and orcas, found in Glacier Bay area and the Aleutian Islands.

WHERE TO SEE ALASK A ANIMALS UP CLOSE ALASKA WILDLIFE CONSERVATION CENTER (PORTAGE) Each of the animals at the Conservation Center has a story. Uli, the female black bear, was found wandering downtown Juneau as a 5-pound cub; Jade, the red fox, was found by joggers after being orphaned; Artemis, a musk ox calf, was found hiding under a raised utility building near Prudhoe Bay after she was separated from her herd. They’ve all found a lifelong home at the sanctuary, which is dedicated to animal care, conservation, research and education. The center has over 200 acres of habitat for the animals — including moose, wood bison, deer, elk, birds of prey, coyotes and reindeer. Some, like the wood bison, are raised and reintroduced to the wild. (Mile 79 of the Seward Highway, Portage)

ALASKA ZOO (ANCHORAGE) Started in 1969 with just Annabelle, an elephant won by a local grocer in a contest, the zoo now includes more than 100 animals, including polar bears, Dall sheep, harbor seals and Arctic fox. Beyond simply providing a way to view the animals, the zoo focuses on education, research and animal rehabilitation. (4731 O’Malley Road, Anchorage)

ALASKA SEALIFE CENTER (SEWARD) The only coldwater marine-science facility in the Western Hemisphere, the SeaLife Center in Seward is where to go if you want to see Steller sea lions, seals, puffins and other coastal birds, salmon, octopus, crabs, starfish and sea urchins. A big part of the SeaLife Center’s mission is rehabilitating injured or abandoned animals from throughout the state, so you might even see an infant walrus, beluga whale or other sea mammal. (301 Railway Ave., Seward)

REINDEER FARM (PALMER) You can pet and feed the roughly 150 reindeer at the Reindeer Farm in Palmer — they’re friendly and will take grain pellets out of your hand. Fun fact: These same reindeer participate in the annual Running of the Reindeer at the Anchorage Rondy festival each February (think running of the bulls, but with reindeer in downtown Anchorage). (5561 S. Bodenburg Loop Road, Palmer)

ROBERT G. WHITE LARGE ANIMAL RESEARCH STATION (FAIRBANKS) Bordering the University of Alaska Fairbanks, this research station is mostly devoted to studying musk oxen, which gives students at the university experience maintaining colonies of large animals. You don’t have to be a student to meet their musk oxen (and the reindeer and cattle that also live there) — LARS has regularly scheduled open hours in the summer and pre-arranged tours in the winter for visitors to stop by. (2220 Yankovich Road, Fairbanks)

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THE MUSK OX FARM (PALMER) Located on a Colony farm in Palmer, The Musk Ox Farm is a domesticated animal operation began in 1964. Part of the farm’s animal husbandry involves collecting the hair that’s shed from musk ox undercoats each spring. The fibers, called qiviut, are said to be softer than cashmere and warmer than wool when spun into yarn, which you can purchase in the farm’s gift shop. You can only get as close as the fences allow, but you’ll have no problem seeing the handful of new calves born each spring. (12850 E. Archie Road, Palmer)

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Visitors to McCarthy and the Kennecott copper mine site can walk and haul gear across the Kennicott River using a footbridge that replaced a tram system. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

BIGGEST OF THE BIG: WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK AND KENNECOTT MINES By B A I L E Y B E R G

rangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is big. Really big. At 13.2 million acres, it’s the largest national park in the United States and covers roughly the same area as the next two biggest national parks combined (Denali and Gates of the Arctic, also in Alaska). It’s difficult not to talk about the area in superlatives, as that sheer amount of acreage holds a lot: four major mountain ranges; the second- and third-highest peaks on the continent; nine of the 16 highest peaks in the U.S.; incredibly diverse wildlife; and the nation’s largest glacial system. For true adventure seekers and wilderness lovers, the park acts as a kind of El Dorado, a place rife with opportunities to play — from backpacking, fishing and camping to raft ing, hiking and climbing — and see the wilderness in all its glory.

HOW TO GET THERE Only two roads, both dirt, lead into the park: McCarthy Road and Nabesna Road. Of the two, the 60-mile-long McCarthy Road is the one far more traveled. You’ll know when the Edgerton Highway merges with McCarthy Road in Chitina because it will go from pavement to dirt road atop what was once a railroad track. It’s slow going, with 24

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blind corners and potholes, but the scenery makes up for it: spectacular views of distant mountains, the Copper River raging below and the impressive Kuskulana River Bridge, which spans a vertigo-inducing gorge. The road ends at the Kennicott River; from there, you cross the river on a footbridge and can either shuttle or walk the half-mile to McCarthy or 4.5 miles to Kennicott. Alternatively, Copper Valley Air offers biweekly flights from Anchorage and Gulkana to McCarthy (907-822-4200). Wrangell Mountain Air does three daily flights from Chitina into the park (800478-1160).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO KENNECOTT MINES: Within 35 years, the Kennecott Mines went from being an established mining camp — pumping out copper around the clock — to a ghost town. For decades, the mill sat empty and abandoned, until 1998, when the National Park Service purchased the mill, power plant and many other camp buildings from private owners and began restoring them. You can take a tour of the mill, a 14-story behemoth that was used to process ore through a multistage process. The tour is worth it for the glaciers and mountain view from the top floors and the opportunity to check out the massive, nearly 100-yearold machinery. There’s also oodles of information about the history of the mines and the people that once worked there at the Kennecott Visitor Center. MCCARTHY-KENNICOTT HISTORICAL MUSEUM: While it could be argued that both towns are museums in and of themselves, the actual

museum, located in what was once a railway depot, does a good job of showing the history from the town’s inception in the late 1800s to today. You can see old photographs, artifacts, a miniature model of historic McCarthy and a diorama of the Bonanza Mine. ROOT GLACIER TRAIL: Past all the wagon-red buildings of the mining camp on the far end of town is the start of the Root Glacier Trail. It’s an easy 4-mile round-trip jaunt out to one of Alaska’s most accessible glaciers. Even from a distance, you can look for the blue pools and streams speckled across the top of the glacier and admire the nearby peaks. If you intend to walk on the ice, wear appropriate footwear and take appropriate safety measures. GUIDED WILDERNESS ADVENTURES: Companies like Kennicott Wilderness Guides, McCarthy River Tours & Outfitters and St. Elias Alpine Guides offer hiking, ice climbing, packrafting and multi day trips through the spruce forests, alpine tundra, glacier fields and canyons of the park.

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Delve into Alaska’s mining history at Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. NPS PHOTO

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The concentration mill building is the centerpiece of the Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

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Flattop Mountain in Chugach State Park attracts many on the evening of summer solstice. The hike is a solstice tradition for some looking to take in an evening view on the longest day of the year. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

HIKING TIPS AND ETIQUETTE: WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TACKLING THE TRAILS By B A I L E Y B E R G

ikers are spoiled for options in Alaska. From quick jaunts near urban centers to multi-day hikes, there is no shortage of trail options. While some hikes demand special equipment, like crampons for a glacier trek or a tent for overnight ventures, there are other items you need every time. Here are some of the essentials.

GEAR Good shoes: If you’re doing a fairly flat or paved trail, you can probably get by with trail running shoes or a pair of hiking sandals. If you’re on a hike with multiple creek crossings, muddy trails or scree, you may spend more time missing the ankle support and waterproofing powers of your hiking boots than you’ll spend actually enjoying nature. Layers: Even the most beautiful bluebird day can devolve into a downpour of rain. Be sure to bring moisture-wicking base layers, an

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insulating layer and a waterproof outer layer to keep you dry and cozy. A good rule of thumb is to avoid cotton-based clothing, as it doesn’t dry as quickly as others. Bear protection: Did you know that an estimated 30,000 brown bears and 100,000 black bears are spread throughout Alaska? While bear attacks are rare, it’s always a good idea to carry bear spray in an accessible spot (and to know how to use it). Water: Staying well-hydrated while hiking is essential for both performance and general survival, so if you can’t carry the amount you need for your trip, bring a filter or purifying tablets to cleanse the water you find along the way. Clear flowing water, like streams, is usually a better, safer water source than stagnant bodies of water, such as lakes and ponds. Map: Cellphone coverage is a rare gift in Alaska’s backcountry, so don’t plan on relying on your cell service to download maps on the trail. Even busier trails in the city can be out of range. If you’re going to use your phone, download a topographic map on your device before you head out. Otherwise, print maps of your desired trail (plus a few miles more of the surrounding area, in case you accidentally wander too far off the map) or pick one up at stores like Alaska Geographic and REI.

A guide leads hikers on a tour of Matanuska Glacier, one of the most accessible glaciers in Southcentral Alaska. PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

TRAIL ETIQUETTE Consider these nature’s rules of the road. Don’t cut switchbacks: When done repeatedly in high-traffic areas, it can lead to erosion. If you stop for a water break or to take a picture, move to the side of the trail so others can get by easily. Give hikers moving uphill the right of way: They’re working harder than those going downhill. Pack out what you pack in: Don’t leave empty bottles, food wrappers or toilet paper in the woods. Why would you want to destroy the nature you’re out here to see? Be mindful of noise pollution: Many people go out into the woods to get away from city noise and to enjoy the sounds of nature, so don’t blast music on speakers. That being said, consider wearing a bear bell to warn the other mammals in the park that you’re coming — you don’t want to catch them by surprise.

SAFETY AROUND MOOSE AND BEARS Generally speaking, neither bears nor moose want anything to do with you. Try to make noise when you’re on the trails — talking, clapping or singing are all good signals that people are coming. If you’re making enough noise that animals can hear your approach and travel slowly enough that they have time to move, you might not even see them. Alaska’s Department of Fish and Game has some good resources about what to do in case of a close encounter. Here are some general pointers.

Bears: If you encounter a bear, give it plenty of space and remain calm. If it appears that the bear hasn’t seen you, move away slowly, never taking your eyes off it. If it has seen you, face the bear, stand your ground and talk to it in a normal voice so it recognizes you as a human. Try to seem bigger by standing near others in your group or putting your arms above your head. If the bear comes toward you, raise your voice, throw rocks or sticks and use a deterrent like bear spray if you have it. Don’t try to outrun the bear — you can’t, and running will trigger the animal’s prey drive, causing it to chase you instinctively. In the very unlikely event that you are attacked, either play dead or fight back. To play dead, lie as still as possible on your stomach and protect the back of your neck with your hands. If the bear no longer feels you’re a threat, it will most likely leave. Stay motionless as long as you’re able. If the bear sees you moving again, it may renew its attack. To read up more on the topic, see the Alaska Department of Fish and Game’s guide: “The Essentials for Traveling in Alaska’s Bear Country.” Regarding situation where you might have to fight back: “Fight any bear that has been calmly focused on you and makes contact or that breaks into a tent or building. In almost all situations, your best defense against an attacking black bear is to fight back. Concentrate on the bear’s face or muzzle with anything you have on hand.” Moose: Like bears, moose aren’t usually aggressive unless they’re provoked. Unlike bears, if one is charging, you should run — a bull moose can weigh over 1,400 pounds, which can do some serious damage. Get behind a tree, car, fence, or put some kind of sturdy object or structure between you and the moose. VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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HOW TO BUY AND ENJOY CANNABIS LEGALLY IN ALASKA

Talk with budtenders at cannabis retail shops around the state about local marijuana varieties. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

By S A M A N T H A D A V E N P O R T

his summer will be Alaska’s fifth tourism season featuring a legal cannabis industry. For out-of-state visitors, here’s the lowdown on what you can and can’t do under the midnight sun. (For more resources, the State of Alaska has a handbook available for download about responsible marijuana consumption.)

WHERE CAN I SMOKE? In Alaska, anyone 21 or older can possess up to an ounce of cannabis for personal use. You can be gifted or give up to an ounce. Under state law, public consumption of cannabis isn’t allowed — leaving parks, playgrounds and roads unavailable as a smoking spot. If you get caught, you’re subject to a fine of up to $100. Using cannabis in national parks is also illegal — in addition to being a public place, marijuana is still federally classified as a Schedule 1 drug, which can translate to a federal citation, typically a misdemeanor. Consuming cannabis is legal on private property, but only if property owners allow it — so check your hotel’s policy. If you’re staying at an Airbnb or other vacation rental, it’s best to ask your host in advance what their policy is. The State of Alaska approved regulations allowing on-site consumption in retail cannabis stores in 2018, but years later the effort to set up “cannabis lounges” has been slow-going, complicated recently by the COVID-19 pandemic. As of this writing, there is at least one shop allowing consumption

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As of this writing, there is at least one shop allowing consumption on-site: Good Titrations’ smoking area opened April 21, 2021, in Fairbanks. There’s a lounge area with a coffee bar, and customers can purchase up to a gram of flower each day.

WHERE CAN I BUY WEED? Alaska has pot shops from Kotzebue to Ketchikan. Some sell prepackaged buds, others are deli-style: allowing customers to pick the green of their choice for their budtender to weigh and pack in front of them. Stores are cash-only, but shops usually have an ATM for customers to use for a nominal fee. Alaska law requires businesses to check your ID — some do it twice — so make sure you have it on hand. Most stores have menus online you can browse. Some offer an online ordering option, but not delivery, and you still have to pay in cash. Tipping isn’t required, but it’s appreciated by the budtenders.

DRIVING WITH MARIJUANA Anchorage law says people must carry weed in the trunk of their car. If the car doesn’t have a trunk, the purchase needs to be stored behind the last row of seats. Make sure to keep your bud in its sealed container; you could still get in trouble with the law if it’s open, even if a passenger is the one who’s opened it. Neither passengers nor drivers can smoke in the vehicle. If you drive under the influence, you could get a DUI. According to the Anchorage Police Department, if someone is suspected of drug impairment, a drug recognition officer will be called PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

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to investigate further. Renee Oistad with APD said in an email that the driver will be asked to perform a sobriety test. If “probable cause exists” for impaired driving, APD will transport the person to the Anchorage jail for a breath test. Those who refuse the breath test could be charged with an additional crime, Oistad wrote.

TRAVELING WITH MARIJUANA Rules for cannabis possession vary depending on how you’re getting around in the state. On federal waterways, the U.S. Coast Guard maintains jurisdiction. Lt. Evan Rothfeld of the U.S. Coast Guard said possession of cannabis — for whatever purpose — remains illegal federally.

“The U.S. Coast Guard, as a federal law enforcement agency, will enforce federal laws regarding marijuana,” Rothfield said in an email. But the Alaska Marine Highway System, operated by the Alaska Department of Transportation and Public Facilities, said they aren’t actively looking for passengers possessing, said Sam Dapcevich. On Alaska Airlines flights, cannabis is prohibited — both in checked and carry-on bags. Lt. Krag Campbell with the Juneau Police Department said JPD won’t confiscate marijuana from people trying to fly with weed. But TSA still doesn’t allow you to travel with it through security checkpoints, he said. “JPD will just ask the passenger to do something with it before being allowed to pass through the screening checkpoint,” Campbell wrote in an email.

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A SHOPPER’S GUIDE TO BUYING WEED IN ALASKA

A customer pays for a purchase. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

By S A M A N T H A D A V E N P O R T

he cannabis industry in the 49th state has evolved in recent years, providing Alaskans and visitors with a wide array of consumption choices. From infused ice cream to concentrates and locally grown flower, there are options for first-time users and daily smokers alike.

FLOWER AND PRE-ROLLS In marijuana shops, customers can choose between sativa, indica and hybrid strains, all of which are known to have varied effects. Traditionally, indica strains have had a reputation for creating a more full-body, relaxing effect, whereas sativa strains are reputed to be more cerebral and energizing. Hybrids have traits of both. But predicting the effects of a strain is far more nuanced, and there’s no hard and fast rule. If you aren’t sure where to start, consult a budtender at the shop who can provide you with recommendations suited to your taste.

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Randy Wells is the owner of The Tufted Puffin in Seward. He said one thing he and his employees spend a lot of time educating his customers about is terpenes — the compounds that contribute aroma and flavor in plants, including cannabis, and can influence its effects. He encourages customers to ask questions to budtenders about certain terpenes in strains. “Having no idea what all the terpenes are that are in that same strain, you’re not necessarily going to get the effect you’re shopping for. If they’re looking for sleep, that doesn’t necessarily mean you want an indica,” because the dominant terpene in the strain could change the effect it has on a user, Wells said. Kevin Schwan, co-owner of Denali’s Cannabis Cache, says his store puts a lot of emphasis on terpene profiles, too. “There are so many great cannabis strains, and some strains that kind of outperform a lot of cannabis strains (with) high THC numbers because they have really high terpene numbers,” Schwan said.

FOR LOCAL STRAINS Gavin Spudwills is a budtender at Uncle Herb’s, which has locations in Anchorage and Homer. If visitors are looking to test out some local strains, he recommends Mercy Fruit Haze, a sativa grown by Mercy

Tree of Alaska, and Jolly Rancher by Ace of Spades, a CBD-heavy strain. “(Mercy Fruit Haze has) a fruity taste, it’s not terribly strong. It’s a good dog-walking joint,” Spudwills said. “(Jolly Rancher is) a generally nice, pain-relieving, anxietyinducing strain that has a great taste to it overall.” Although it tends to test pretty high in THC, Schwan recommends some strains from GOOD Cannabis. “If someone is really looking for a highly energetic experience, we carry (GOOD Cannabis’) Durban Poison. Our one budtender calls it the espresso of cannabis.” Michelle Cleaver, owner of Weed Dudes in Sitka, says you have to match each person with the effects they prefer. From strains that are over 30% THC to CBD strains that tend to be lower in THC — less than 10% — she thinks new users should fall somewhere in the middle.

FOR NEW USERS Schwan has a saying for those who either have never smoked or haven’t in years: “Start low and go slow.” “I say to take maybe one to two puffs, and then you put it out and wait 15 minutes ... see how you feel and if you want any more,” Schwan said. “If it’s a first-time user, I always go with some pretty low THC numbers. They can always go up from there.” In general, “We really like Rosie Creek Farms, and Rosebud is one strain in particular … it’s just really nice. It’s actually a staff pick for us.” For newbies, Spudwills recommends CBD prerolls; he says they have a great taste, aren’t “crazy stoney” and “can ease you into what A marijuana bud is displayed for sale at a marijuana dispensary. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

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Cannabis edibles called Boingos being produced at a local bakery. Each gummy-like serving has 5mg of THC. PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

cannabis has to offer.” “It won’t shock your system and you won’t get too high or anything like that and scare yourself away from a good experience,” Spudwills said. Cleaver notes that top-shelf items may be a bit strong for first-time users; she recommends Pineapple Express, which can be found at shops around Alaska “(It’s) a daytime weed … so they can go out and have fun with their activities and not be sucked into the couch,” Cleaver said.

FOR THE STRONG STUFF David Parker, owner of Fat Tops, which has two locations on the Kenai Peninsula, carries several high-potency THC strains from Smoking Joe’s Terps in Kasilof. “Our highest bud is testing at 32%, and it’s Love Potion Number Nine,” Parker said. “And then we have another one called Grease Monkey, that’s a real good one — it’ll test at 28% to 30% as well.” If you prefer a more in-the-couch type of weed, Cleaver likes Gorilla Glue, which can be found statewide. “It’s a sticky, stoney, fun high kind of weed,” Cleaver said.

EDIBLES From gummy candies to mints, edible options are available in single servings all the way up to 10-packs. Edibles are a way for visitors to consume cannabis that’s smoke-free. Wells and Cleaver both note the popularity of edibles is due to their set dosage. Each edible is 5 milligrams per dose and 50 milligrams per package. Parker says some options are available on the market for 2.5-milligram edibles. A proposed change currently under consideration from Alaska’s Marijuana Control Board would bump up edibles from 5 to 10 milligrams per dose, or 50 to 100 per package. Wells’ store carries a variety of edibles, including items from Lady Gray Medibles, a company based on the Kenai Peninsula. Lady Gray creates chocolates, cookies, ice cream, nectar, spreads and more. You can find their products throughout stores in the state, including The 420 in Petersburg, Pipe & Leaf in Fairbanks, Weed Dudes in Sitka and numerous shops in Anchorage. Cleaver says edibles can take an hour, sometimes two to feel the full effects. Schwan says it can take as long as 2 1/2 hours, depending on the person. 34

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“It stays with you for a very long time, six to eight hours, which is more than, say, if you’re just smoking off a pipe, where that effect may only last an hour,” Cleaver said. Parker carries edible chocolate chip cookies from the Anchorage Bowl and Red Run Cannabis Company’s hashade — an infused lemonade beverage. Capsules and topicals are also options. “(Edibles are not) a real strong high, but it’s definitely effective to a person who does not smoke,” Parker said.

CONCENTRATES Marijuana concentrates — highly potent products that have a greater proportion of terpenes and cannabinoids — are an option for more avid marijuana users. Cleaver’s store and many others carry products like shatter and crumble, but the most popular concentrate for travelers is vape cartridges. “We sell a lot of vape cartridges, which are those concentrates,” Cleaver said. Convenience is a big factor. “It’s easy, but not for your serious concentrate person. Cartridges are an easy way to do it, where you can bring it along. It’s not something that looks really funny, and when you smoke it, it doesn’t smell very bad.” Spudwills agrees. “I have definitely seen a trend of the older crowd, I’d say the 50 plus, getting the disposable pens,” Spudwills said. “Those are generally cheap, they’re nice and portable and they’re pretty nondescript.”

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BREATHTAKING HIKES NEAR ANCHORAGE, NO MATTER HOW MUCH TIME YOU HAVE By B A I L E Y B E R G

t’s no secret that hiking opportunities in Alaska are world-class. But while the state is geographically massive, it doesn’t mean all the good stuff is remote — even Anchorage, the largest city, has quick and convenient access to incredible nature. Here are just a few hikes, with varying degrees of length and difficulty, that epitomize the beauty and majesty of Alaska, all within a 30-minute drive of downtown Anchorage.

IF YOU HAVE 3-4 HOURS Flattop Mountain: Easily the most climbed mountain in Alaska, Flattop is a perennial favorite among locals and visitors alike, thanks to its well-maintained trail and views encompassing all of Anchorage (and stretching as far as Denali on a clear day). While the entire mountain stands at 3,510 feet, you’ll only ascend the final 1,280 over the course of a mile and a half. The mountain’s popularity has its pros and cons. On one hand, it’s accessible even if you don’t have a car — Flattop Mountain Shuttle is a service that takes visitors there ($23 round-trip or $21 if you rent a bike from the company before or after; runs May 15 to Sept. 15 at 12:30 p.m.; 907-279-3334). The service starts and ends in downtown and allows hikers 2.5 hours to complete the trail. The downside is that it’s easily the most crowded trail in Anchorage, so you may be jockeying for space with other visitors (and often their dogs). The trail becomes steep near the summit and the last 300 or so feet calls for some rocky scrambling that might be a little scary for novice hikers. Tony Knowles Coastal Trail: If you’re 36

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looking for a walk that can be done with coffee in hand, this is it. Starting in downtown Anchorage, this paved 11-mile trail hugs the coast all the way to its terminus in Kincaid Park. It’s a leisurely path (save for a daunting final half-mile that rises steeply) that links up with several sightseeing spots, including Westchester Lagoon, Earthquake Park and Point Woronzof. Aside from the occasional urban moose, there isn’t much possibility of animal sightings until you reach Kincaid Park (unless you count the metal birds blasting off at the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport), but the land and cityscapes are lovely.

IF YOU HAVE A HALF-DAY Rabbit Lake: Eight and a half miles out

Late-day sun brightened a hike up Flattop Mountain in Chugach State Park on the summer solstice. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

A man walking on the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail at Point Woronzof is silhouetted against Mount Susitna. PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

and back, it’s a gorgeous hike the whole way, but the big payoff comes right at the end with views of Rabbit Lake in the shadows of the mighty Suicide Peaks. An easy (but still 8.7 mile round trip) hike with pretty minimal elevation gain, the first half cuts through brush as it runs parallel to the Flattop ridgeline before emerging into an open valley for the final couple of miles. Pack in a picnic and spend some time soaking in the lakeside views before heading back. Keep an eye out for blueberries in late summer! Eagle and Symphony Lakes: Just northeast of Anchorage near Eagle River, this 12-mile round-trip hike is outrageously photogenic from start to finish. Even though it’s a longer hike, the bulk of the trail is level, making it easy to breeze through. It’s not until the end

A runner strides down into Raven Creek Valley during the Crow Pass Crossing race. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

when you reach a boulder field where you really need to watch your step (this part can be challenging for small kids and dogs). But the finale, including the two lakes — one mint green, the other a deep aquamarine — separated by a single moraine, and the towering peaks on all sides, makes the effort worth it.

YOU HAVE A FULL DAY OR WANT TO DO AN OVERNIGHT TRIP Williwaw Lakes: Tucked in Chugach State Park, this string of nine alpine lakes allows for the most customizable itinerary. You could do a big loop, starting at the Prospect Heights Trailhead parking lot and coming back via the Campbell Creek Canyon Trail and Near Point.

You could take it easy, going down Powerline Pass to Middle Fork to the Williwaw Lakes Trail, following the creek through the valley as long as you care to before turning around. Or, if you start at the Glen Alps Trailhead, you could go up and over via the “football field” (also called the “ballfield”) for a workout that’ll make your legs burn but offers the most awe-inspiring views of the valley. Whichever way you choose, you’ll almost certainly see moose, Dall sheep and various waterfowl. Crow Pass: If you travel light, move quickly and start early, you can cover the 21-mile trail in a single day. Most people choose to break it up over two days, though. Starting in Girdwood, the trail passes glaciers, waterfalls, mine ruins and a Forest Service cabin, then

winds through a valley to the Eagle River before terminating at the Eagle River Nature Center. The river crossing can be dangerous (the depth of its frigid waters can reach your belly button, though it’s lower earlier in the morning, and the current is swift), so it’s not recommended for a solo trek. Your odds of seeing wild animals — ranging from arctic ground squirrels, marmots and Dall sheep to bears and moose — are good, considering the trail isn’t as trafficked as others in the Chugach. Make sure to arrange for transport back to town from the end of the trail in Eagle River, though: The hike back to Girdwood is uphill.

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Cyclists pause along the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail to watch cargo planes take off from Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport at Point Woronzof. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

TACKLE ANCHORAGE’S TERRIFIC CITY TRAIL SYSTEM By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

ne of the best ways to understand Anchorage’s unique relationship and coexistence with nature is to tackle the city’s enviable and award-winning network of trails. Anchorage boasts more than 120 miles of paved bike and multi-use trails, not to mention 130 miles of plowed winter walkways, 105 miles of maintained ski trails, 36 miles of dog mushing trails, and 87 miles of non-paved hiking trails — and that’s just within the municipality! Many trails take you beyond city boundaries, connecting adventurers to the mountainous Chugach State Park, where you can wander high into the alpine tundra to access some 495,000 acres of jaw-dropping scenery. Within town limits, Anchorage’s impressive trail system meanders along the stunning city coast, travels along trickling creeks and threads through thick forests. Sturdy tunnels barrel beneath busy roadways, and wood-planked bridges span meandering waters. This comprehensive system effectively delivers active commuters to work, and offers up an infrastructure entrée for visitors venturing for variety in a city known for its natural surroundings. The crown jewel of the system is the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail, a recreational conduit that teems with walkers, bicyclists, runners, roller bladers, and more in its popular summer months. The trail stretches nearly 11 miles from one of downtown’s most historic sectors on Second Ave. to the multi-use chalet at Kincaid Park. Its mostly level terrain affords an incredibly accessible and easily traversable footpath for all ages, abilities and families. Because there are multiple locations throughout where you can park and access this picturesque route, it’s a customizable experience — from a short stroll to a multi-hour outing. Westchester Lagoon is a perfect place to start your Coastal Trail jaunt. Just 1.6 miles from the trail’s downtown start, the lagoon features plenty of parking and an expansive park, with stunning views of the Chugach Mountains, glittering stretches of serene water, picnic tables and benches for contemplative breaks and a lively playground for kids. Birders will appreciate flocks of waterfowl, migrating shorebirds, mallards, grebes, swallows and more. In the summer, the pond makes for a pretty paddle, and there are typically flotation devices on hand if you’re without one. In the winter, the iced-over lagoon is transformed into a popular skating spot. From Westchester, you can travel 9 miles on the Coastal Trail to Kincaid Park, or access the eastbound 4-mile-long Chester Creek Trail. The Chester Creek Trail follows its namesake waterway, and passes by Valley of the Moon Park, another spot worth a visit. It features an impressive playground, picnic areas and sprawling grass fields, all 38

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abutting the creek. Chester Creek Trail ends at Goose Lake Park, in central Anchorage near the University District. If you’re not ready for your walk to end, follow the 3-mile paved trail surrounding this scenic lake. On a sunny day, this popular swimming spot makes for a respite from the high Alaska sunshine. Visitors can enjoy opportunities for fun and exercise, and closer viewing of loons, Canada Geese, mew and herring gulls, and a few songbirds. There is an on-site snack café, a playground area, and municipal life guards on duty during sunny summer days. Another popular entry point or rest stop along the Coastal Trail en route to its Kincaid terminus is Earthquake Park. Famous for the long-gone houses that slid into the sea with the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake, the park today is a modest lot and viewpoint adjacent to the Coastal Trail, with interpretive signs and photo-ops of downtown Anchorage. On clear days, you may see North America’s tallest peak, Denali, and its companion mountains on the northern horizon. For those eager to bike the trail system, multiple downtown vendors rent bikes all year round. Rates and lengths of rentals vary from hourly to by the day or even the week. Downtown Bicycle Rental, Sales and Repair (333 W. Fourth Ave.; 907-279-5293) offers all kinds options and accessories, including complimentary bear spray. Alaska Pablo’s Bicycle Rentals (415 L St.; 277-2453) is also open for the 2021 season and taking reservations for its equipment online. Don’t forget: When using Anchorage’s trail system, it’s important to remember some basic rules around safety and courtesy. The municipality reminds users that trails are usually multi-use and not intended for racing, so people should be aware of their surroundings, travel at safe speeds and never take up more than half the trail, leaving space for other users. Keep right, except to pass. Listen for others upon approach; it’s common for bicyclists and others to have bells on, or to verbally warn those ahead of their approach by saying things like, “On your left!” Pets must be leashed and the law requires any animal or human litter be picked up and disposed of. Even so, keep an eye out for meandering dogs as you navigate turns and narrow spaces. Also, be aware of wildlife. Moose, bears, coyotes and other animals share city trails, and that’s especially true the farther one travels from downtown. Be alert and give wildlife plenty of room. Applying bug spray and carrying bear spray are smart moves. When traveling in bear country, be mindful of making noise, traveling with one or more people whenever possible, and staying observant. Also of note: A perennial issue in Anchorage are homeless camps along some of the city greenbelts, particularly in more urban areas. Daytime is the best time to access the trails, and as always, be aware of your environment and exercise caution when traveling, especially if you’re on your own.

COFFEE CULTURE, ANCHORAGE STYLE BY M A R A S E V E R I N

Even the hardiest Alaskans need a coping mechanism or two to help us through the long winter: supplements, blackout curtains, mood lamps. You name it, we’ve probably tried it. And, sure, long walks and Vitamin D are great, but have you tried coffee? One thing many Alaskans rely on is year-round coffee-therapy. A hot, frothy cappuccino, sipped in a cozy café, can be the perfect cure for the low-winter-sun blues. But caffeinated pick-me-ups are no less valuable in summer when Alaskans are burning the candle at both ends. After all, if the sun never goes down, is it ever really bedtime? Which is why Alaska’s coffee roasters are household names to the locals. There’s Kaladi Brothers, which grew from a lone espresso cart in 1984 to a burgeoning business with 14 stores around the state (and one in Seattle). There is SteamDot Coffee Co., whose Midtown café features a “slow bar,” where your coffee is ground and brewed fresh to order (600 E Northern Light Blvd.). And then there’s Black Cup Coffee — they serve a full menu of espresso drinks but their motto, as their name implies, is: “extraordinary coffee best served black.” (341 E Benson Blvd.) Undecided? Head over to Sip Coffee Lounge (510 W Tudor Rd. Ste 7) where you can order a coffee flight featuring both Kaladi Brothers and Black Cup brews. It’s a friendly battle of the beans. Everyone has their favorite, but each of these coffee purveyors enjoys a well-earned popularity. But coffee can be as much about café culture as it is about beans. A good coffee house is part community center, part extended office, part mental day spa and part art gallery. It’s a great way to learn about someplace new. And in downtown Anchorage, café culture is thriving. Kaladi Brothers Café at the Performing Arts Center (621 W. Sixth Ave.) in downtown is a bustling space and a convenient spot to grab a cup of stamina while in the midst of souvenir shopping or if you’re on the way to see a show. Another cozy spot is Moose A’La Mode (360 K St.), featuring Homer’s K Bay organic coffee served alongside some of the most delicious cupcakes in town with inventive flavors like s’mores and blueberry lemonade. Another spot that specializes in sweet treats and brew is Gelatte (500 W. Sixth Ave) where, as the name suggests, you can warm up with a specialty drink or cool down with housemade ice cream. Or you can thread both needles and order an affogato, if you want a grown-up sip that pleases your inner child. Another local favorite is Dark Horse Coffee (646 F St.), a cozy, slightly out-of-the-way spot with a reputation for great coffee drinks (which they source from Heritage Coffee in Juneau) and avocado toast. Bonus points for their inviting little porch, where you can sit and sip on sunny days. If you require a hearty meal alongside your Americano, Kaladi Brothers coffee is served up at the friendly Snow City Café (1034 W. Fourth Ave.). A favorite with locals, this funky, vibrant spot features rotating local art, an impressive variety of eggs Benedict and expertly crafted espresso drinks. I’m particularly partial to their use of tall, sleeved pint glasses to serve large-sized lattes and mochas. Hot drinks taste better served this way. I don’t know why. Originale serves a variety of traditional specialty Italian coffee drinks. And if you can resist their incredible sandwiches stuffed with imported Italian salumi, then I bow to your superior will power (400 D St.).

PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

For a unique coffee house experience with bohemian vibe, check out Uncle Leroy’s coffee, a local business that began its roasting in a 1968 bus. The origin story is scrappy but it’s known for serving beautifully refined drinks in a fun, hip atmosphere (701 W 36th Ave #18 in Midtown). Or hit up AK Alchemist (103 E. Fourth Ave.), which describes itself as the perfect mix of “Alaskan culture, urban city swank, and steam punk artistry” all wrapped up into one coffee house. On the other end of the ambiance spectrum is Kobuk Coffee Co. (corner of Fifth Avenue and E Street). By Town Square, in the historic Kimball Building (1915), this charming little gift shop retains some of its original fixtures and flooring. In a store packed full of unnecessary necessities (old-timey candy, scented candles and teacups), you’ll be hard-pressed to make it to the coffee room without doing some impromptu browsing (and, if you’re like me, buying). Kobuk offers a whole range of espresso drinks and a wide variety of teas but, whichever you choose, make sure you get house-made doughnuts to keep it company. What kind of doughnuts, you ask? Like everything else in the store: old-fashioned. Husband-and-wife owners George Gee and Deborah Seaton have been running Side Street Espresso (412 G St.) for 25 years and it has evolved from a café into a neighborhood institution. In contrast to the gleaming fixtures of trendier, newer cafés in town, Side Street Espresso is like a living scrapbook commemorating 2 1/2 decades of the Anchorage community. The cozy space is filled with curios, a Buddhist shrine, a lending library, a rack of local postcards, board games and layers of notices about local events. Espresso drinks are expertly made, and George treats everyone like an old friend. But my favorite thing about Side Street Espresso is the art. George has been creating an original piece of art on white “specials” board almost every day for 20 years. Inspired by his morning thoughts on his walk to work, Monday’s board might announce a Toasted Marshmallow Mocha atop a portrait of Maria Callas. Or Atticus Finch might share space with the price-point for a cherry-flavored latte. George used to erase these daily (with a Zen-like attitude that I cannot fathom) but local public outcry inspired him to begin to preserve them. They’ve now been assembled into a book of collected works called “Flutters from Side Street.” It’s a reminder that a cup of coffee can invigorate, but a café can inspire.

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The chef at the Crow’s Nest restaurant prepares the first of the season sockeye salmon. PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

SEARCHING FOR ALASKA’S FINEST BITES? START WITH SEAFOOD

Simon & Seafort’s in Downtown Anchorage. PHOTO BY JIM LAVRAKAS

By M A R A S E V E R I N

like to explore a new place fork first. A destination’s culinary landscape is often as interesting as its topographical one. And Alaska is no different. If you want to break the ice with a local, ask them about their favorite pizza. Or burger. Or bowl of pho. You’ll definitely hear about Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria, which might be described as one of the city’s most important social hubs. You’ll hear about the broth-to-noodle soup ratios at old school Vietnamese eatery, Ray’s Place on Spenard Road vs. the trendy Phonatik in South Anchorage. You’ll hear about Tommy’s Burger Stop, Lucky Wishbone, and Arctic Roadrunner, where the loyal locals have gotten their burger-and-fries fi xes for decades. You’ll even hear spirited debates about the city’s best hot dog stands. Seriously: Reindeer sausage is not just for tourists. Alaskans eat it year-round and we take it seriously. Are you loyal to Yeti Dogs, past winner of the Mobile Cuisine Magazine’s Hot Dog Vendor of the Year (yes, that’s a thing)? Or are you a fan of International House of Hot Dogs, where you can order your reindeer sausage topped with ham and pineapple and served with a side of cilantro garlic fries? Landlubbers, quit reading here. For most visitors to Alaska, fork-first travel means seafood. Seafood is at the top of our gourmet (and recreational) food chain. Many residents love to fish, and those who don’t make sure to befriend someone who does. How else will you keep your second freezer packed tight with salmon and halibut? However, if during your Alaska vacation you’re not lucky enough to finagle a dinner invitation from a well-stocked local, never fear. The seafood-savvy chefs at Anchorage’s

best restaurants have got you covered. From sweet king crab legs to humble halibut tacos, dining out in Anchorage means eating the way many Alaskans dine in. Which is to say, beautifully.

SPECTACULAR SALMON Salmon, in Alaska, is both a luxury and a staple. Flaky, fatty (the good kind of fat) and full-flavored, salmon stands up to a wide range of preparations, including the smokiness and heat of an open flame. There are five salmon species found in Alaska but the king variety is, well, king. If you’re going to tuck into a glistening piece of Alaska king salmon (also known as chinook), you might as well get the royal treatment at The Crow’s Nest, the elegant restaurant at the top of the Hotel Captain Cook in downtown. A recent king salmon preparation is served with

Salmon burger from Salmon Hookup Truck. PHOTO BY MARA SEVERIN

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a cauliflower emulsion, roasted florets, couscous, and crispy chickpeas with a raisin and sherry jam. Food comes to the table with flair and finesse, and every dish comes with 360 degrees of stunning views. For similarly beautiful views with a more relaxed vibe, check out the 49th State Brewing Co., downtown on Third Avenue, where you can pair your grilled salmon fi let with a lemon cream sauce and a housebrewed IPA. Bonus points for grabbing a spot at the best deck in town. Or keep your eyes peeled for the Salmon HookUp Truck, which makes appearances at festivals, breweries and food truck fairs around Anchorage throughout the summer. Owned and operated by commercial fishermen, the salmon in their sandwiches, quesadillas, tacos and kebabs is as fresh as it’s possible to get anywhere. It’s like a taste of the ocean on wheels. For a meal with a little Latin flair, duck into the chic and trendy Tequila 61 downtown on Fourth Avenue for salmon tacos garnished with crispy fried onions, grilled pineapple and chipotle slaw. Make sure to wash them down with one of their top-notch scratch margaritas. Or get your seafood fi x at the most important meal of the day and hit up Snow City Café (1034 W. Fourth Ave.) for a Ship Creek Benedict made with smoked salmon cakes. This local favorite also offers a Kodiak Benedict with Alaska red king crab cakes. Or go all out with the Deadliest Catch Benedict, which is a sampling of each. When it comes to Alaska breakfasts it’s go big or go home.

HEAVENLY HALIBUT Considering the size of this behemoth catch (some exceed 400 pounds), Alaska halibut is prized for its delicate, buttery flavor. Its name derivation comes from half (holy) and butte (flat fish) and a beautifully prepared fi let can indeed be a spiritual experience. Its immaculate white flesh, firm textured and clean tasting, lends itself to a wide variety of flavor profi les.

At Simon & Seafort’s Saloon & Grill (420 L St.), a downtown Anchorage seafood landmark with a classic culinary sensibility, halibut cheeks are crusted in asiago and served with a velvety beurre blanc. This upscale eatery also boasts a bustling bar with beautiful views of Mount Susitna (known locally as the “Sleeping Lady”). The halibut fi let at Glacier Brewhouse (737 W. Fift h Ave.) is coated with basil pesto and spent grain breadcrumbs. And for a playful take on this revered fish, head to Haute Quarter Grill for halibut served with a citrus glaze and strawberry salsa (525 W. Fourth Ave.) At the new downtown hot spot, Tent City Taphouse, try the Halibut Alaskana served Olympia style with fresh dill, lemon crème fraiche, smoked lemon pan jus, and braised fennel. Just across Sixth Avenue, Pangea serves up a banana cashew crusted halibut with green curry and mango chutney on jasmine rice. But if you want to eat halibut like a true local, look for the hand-held variety. The White Spot Cafe (109 W. Fourth Ave.), established in 1946, is an old-school lunch counter that serves up a lightly battered halibut sandwich revered by Anchorage residents for decades. At El GreenGo’s food truck, you can customize your fish tacos with either halibut or salmon. At F Street Station (325 F St.), a thick slab of perfectly grilled halibut is served as a classic sandwich with lettuce, tomato and tartar sauce. (Also, make sure to check out the bar’s famous block of cheese.) And Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse (610 W. Sixth Ave.) serves up ever-popular halibut tacos that most locals could describe from memory.

THE KING OF CRAB Alaska king crab legs have such a subtle and unique flavor that I’m resistant to experimental recipes. Drawn butter and perhaps a few lemon wedges are, for me, the ideal accompaniment to this peculiarly

The halibut sandwich is one of the favorites at the White Spot Café on Fourth Avenue in Anchorage PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

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907.278.9283

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VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2021

sweet delicacy. Happily, many of Anchorage’s best restaurants share my view. Haute Quarter Grill, Glacier Brewhouse, 49th State Brewing Company, Simon & Seafort’s, and Tent City Taphouse all offer this decadent treat, by the pound, in its simplest form. And if you want your old-school dish served in an old-school dining room, head to Club Paris, which has been serving seafood and steak since the 1950s, and where you can eat your crab with a side of nostalgia and a dash of “Mad Men” flair (417 W. Fift h Ave.). That said, I’m not always crabby about creative crab and I’m charmed by the king crab fritters on the appetizer menu at The Crow’s Nest. I find it hard to resist a fritter of any kind but one that’s served with a pickle juice aioli? Resistance is futile.

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A raw oyster from Simpson Bay, near Cordova, at the Bubbly Mermaid Champagne and Oyster Bar PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS A fine-dining destination with low-key charm is The Marx Brothers Café, located in a diminutive, freestanding, historic house on Third Avenue in downtown. A bit of planning is called for to snag one of the 14 tables at this cozy culinary gem. Once there, try the pan-seared Kodiak scallops with leeks, tomatoes, tarragon, and saff ron served over a house made spinach pasta. Marx Brothers also boasts one of the best wine cellars in the state and will be happy to help you find the perfect sip for your scallops. Other upscale but comforting takes on the sweet and savory scallop can be found at Crow’s Nest, where Kodiak scallops are served with fennel cream, chorizo, and sweet corn succotash made with brown butter and tarragon. Or head over to Ginger Restaurant where seared diver scallops are served atop a basil-pine nut crusted three-cheese pasta, tomato brunoise, and finished with truffle oil and fresh basil (425 W. Fift h Ave.). This is not your grandma’s mac and cheese.

King crab legs and blue cheese stuffed filet at the Club Paris in downtown Anchorage. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

OUT-OF-THE-ORDINARY OYSTERS As my family will tell you, I love oysters. Every year, I dutifully bring my family to the Alaska State Fair in Palmer. I like giant pumpkins and baby piglets as much as the next person, but secretly, I go for the oysters. When I arrive, I saddle up to the Pristine Products oyster booth and down a quick dozen of Prince William Sound’s finest while watching the pros shuck the next plateful. At the end of the day, after my family has stuffed themselves full of funnel cake and onion blossoms, I’ve been biding my time. My farewell gesture to the fair is to slurp back another dozen oysters. They’re that good. If you aren’t lucky enough to be in town during the Alaska State Fair, you’ll just have to suck it up (so to speak) and get your fi x in a more civilized manner. Many restaurants serve fresh-shucked local oysters with a traditional mignonette or cocktail sauce, including F Street Station and Sullivan’s Steakhouse (320 W. Fift h Ave.). For something more refined, Haute Quarter Grill offers a cold oyster dish served with a strawberry, cucumber and ginger mignonette. Ginger serves their oysters with a kick, freshly shucked into a shot glass with a spicy sake tomato water. For more oyster options, throw an exclusive oyster party at The Bubbly Mermaid, a hip and quirky little oyster bar that is, literally, ship-shaped. They’re offering a private, pre-book only chef-to-table experience with over a dozen hot and cold oyster choices. From the traditional mignonette and Rockefeller preparations to funky shooters like kale, sriracha and Pabst Blue Ribbon. Oysters are accompanied by carefully curated champagnes. Booking must be done by noon for same day dining (417 D St.). That said, the cold salt waters of Alaskan’s coast produce the most delicious oysters in the world — plump, sweet and briny — so after dabbling with dips, toppings and sauces, do yourself a flavor and end your meal with at least one oyster eaten au naturel. A little taste of the sea is the perfect dessert. NOTE: Hours, occupancy, COVID-19 mandates, and (most importantly) seasonal specials can change, so be sure to check ahead before checking out Anchorage’s best dining destinations.

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HISTORY, SHOPPING AND NIGHTLIFE IN DOWNTOWN ANCHORAGE

Town Square Park is a riot of color in downtown Anchorage during the summer. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

CELEBRATING OVER 60 YEARS OF EXCELLENCE

owntown Anchorage is just busy enough to entertain yet compact enough to easily navigate — a perfect combination for curious visitors ready to explore Alaska’s largest city by foot, either during the light of day or into the tantalizing twilight of the midnight sun. Of the roughly 731,000 people who live in Alaska, nearly 293,000 people call Anchorage home. The city celebrated its centennial in 2015, and its frontier-town past lingers alongside today’s modernity; downtown is full of creative art galleries and museums, hip boutiques and shops, upscale eateries and moody dive bars. Its compressed size and sensible street grids render it pleasantly walkable, and its share of hotels make it a probable home base for tourists, if not a logical stopping-off point for any Alaska vacationer. To get started, stop by the downtown Log Cabin Visitor Information Center at the corner of F Street and Fourth Avenue, a central location for launching Anchorage explorations. Staffed year-round, here you’ll find information about town history and connect with exciting out-oftown excursions or city tours. While the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake did a number of downtown’s architecture (a 9.2 magnitude to be exact!), some scenic structures remain. Next door to the visitor center sits the two-story cast concrete Historic City Hall, which first opened in 1936. The art deco 4th Avenue Theatre (currently closed) remains a prominent Fourth Avenue landmark. A handful of quaint circa-1915 cottages on Third Avenue are among the city’s oldest structures. Just below downtown in Ship Creek, the Alaska Railroad Anchorage Depot, built in 1942, still serves the state’s rails today. 44

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VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2021

Voted “Best Steak” 23 Years

Press Picks 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

CLUB PARIS Monday - Friday: Lunch served 11:30am-2:30pm with Dinner service beginning at 5:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Dinner service begins at 4pm Reservations Recommended: 277-6332 • 417 West 5th Avenue,Anchorage

Classic Cuisine, Classic Alaska

Visit Fans of Club Paris in Anchorage:

Downtown Anchorage PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

In downtown, watch for interpretive signs that tell stories of Anchorage’s earliest days and important landmarks. Or visit the circa-1915 Oscar Anderson House museum at 420 M St. The charming cottage is scheduled to open in May 2021. Anderson, its namesake, claimed to be the 18th settler to arrive in Anchorage, and his widow donated the property to posterity in 1976. Other downtown stops for the historically curious include the Anchorage Museum, at 625 C St., packed with historical, arts, and cultural exhibits; the Alaska Experience Theatre, which boasts an experiential show dedicated to the historic 1964 quake with seats that shake and tremble; and even the picturesque Anchorage Memorial Park Cemetery, established in 1915 by President Woodrow Wilson, where some of Anchorage’s most significant pioneers are buried. Downtown has plenty of shopping too. Fourth and Fifth avenues are never short of tourist shops with reasonably priced T-shirts, hats, trinkets and more. The more discerning shopper will find clothing and jewelry boutiques, art galleries, and dessert and wine shops.

DOWNTOWN NIGHTLIFE Anchorage is full of nighttime pursuits, too, with an inclusive array of bar-hopping options ranging from higher-end cocktail bars to breezy outdoor spaces to no-frills Alaska dive bars. Start out at the corner of G Street and Sixth Avenue, where you’ll find a nexus of bars, anchored by Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse (610 W. Sixth Ave.). The menu covers the gamut of Alaska pub grub, like fried halibut and king crab nuggets, and its beer selection is toptier. Next door to Humpy’s is Flattop Pizza + Pool (600 W. Sixth Ave.), featuring solid pizza and a laid-back, urban vibe. Across the street is Williwaw (601 F St.), whose gem is a rooftop bar that opens on nice summer days and is unparalleled for its sun-soaked seating and views of Town Square. For a fancy evening, several fine-dining restaurants downtown have similarly delicious cocktail creations and extensive wine selections. Ginger (425 W. Fifth Ave.) serves Pacific Rim-influenced cuisine amid a modern, warm interior, and a chic bar area where craft cocktails reign. Crush (328 G St.) consistently offers wine flights alongside small, foodie-pleasing plates like feta-stuffed dates wrapped

There’s always a place to sip an evening away in downtown Anchorage. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

in prosciutto; the menu subtly shifts with the seasons. Haute Quarter Grill (525 W. Fourth Ave.) boasts upscale American cuisine featuring Alaska seafood and produce whenever possible. This is a great spot on a warm summer night when the bar opens up its front-facing accordion walls and diners can enjoy patio seating. To mingle with locals at authentic dive bars, try Darwin’s Theory and Pioneer Bar. Both have been around for decades and share some commonalities: no food, no-frills bartenders and no shortage of loyal regulars. Mad Myrna’s (530 E. Fifth Ave.) is downtown’s lively and welcoming gay club, recently remodeled. With drag shows, cabaret performances, karaoke nights and dancing, Myrna’s is a true standout with a highenergy vibe. In your nightlife explorations, don’t forget Anchorage’s growing number of breweries. Downtown hosts 49th State Brewing Co. (717 W. Third Ave.), complete with a huge bar, massive menu, and an epic rooftop deck with fantastic views of the inlet and distant mountains – even Denali on a clear day.

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Visit the Alaska Native Heritage Center, a renowned cultural center and museum in Anchorage, to understand more about Alaska’s indigenous people. PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

HERE’S WHERE TO IMMERSE YOURSELF IN ARTS AND CULTURE IN ANCHORAGE By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

hether you’re drawn to fine art, hungry for history, or seeking a singular cultural tourism experience, Anchorage’s arts and culture scene has you covered. For many, the journey begins at the Anchorage Museum, an all-encompassing hub centrally located at 625 C St., in easy walking distance for downtown-dwelling tourists. The sprawling and modern museum boasts boundless galleries that reverently showcase Alaska Native history, arts and culture. You’ll find dainty but durable woven grass baskets, traditional clothing fashioned from skins and furs, and intricate bead work and hand tools dating to long-ago times. The museum’s Art of the North exhibit reveals perceptions of the Alaskan landscape, with historical, contemporary, and Indigenous depictions showcased by impressive gallery bays. Visitors can enjoy sculptures, videos, photography and paintings, including the timeless works of Sydney Laurence, Alaska’s most-loved romantic landscape artist. Rotating exhibits running during the summer of 2021 include “Listen Up: Northern Soundscapes,” a sound art experience whose artists herald from Alaska, elsewhere in the U.S., Russia, Canada, and Scandinavia. Also featured is retrospective work of Inupiaq artist Ronald Senungetuk, a renowned sculptor, silversmith and woodcarver who passed away in 2020. Because of COVID-19, standard museum fare such as the cafe and planetarium are closed as of this writing (you can call 907-929-9200 for more current information). But the museum has expanded online exploration, including featuring online shopping options for its gift shop, and has unveiled its Museum From Home experience, which allows visitors to peruse information and exhibits virtually. For those particularly interested in Alaska’s first people, venture to the north side of town to the venerable Alaska Native Heritage Center. This unique and enthralling cultural tourism hub celebrates the history and experience of Alaska’s Native people. The Native Heritage Center is an indoor and outdoor facility that covers some 26 scenic acres, located northwest of the Glenn Highway and Muldoon Road. It educates visitors about the enduring and incredible legacy of Alaska Natives and includes exhibits, demonstrations, a café and gift shop. Many visitors will be surprised by Alaska’s broad range of Native cultures and traditions, and the Heritage Center presents an extraordinary chance to see it all in one place. Situated beside a lovely lake, the center includes recreated village sites, a glimpse into more traditional ways of life that visitors can freely explore. The Heritage Center is open May 11 to mid-September. The Anchorage Museum and the Heritage Center are the two biggies in town, but are complemented by other cultural centers and museums that address both broad topics and niche interests. The 1964 Good Friday Earthquake changed Alaska, and visitors may have a renewed interest in the state’s unique geology after the wellpublicized 7.1 quake that made international headlines in November 2018. The Alaska Experience Theatre’s premiere event is an ongoing and experiential show dedicated to the historic 1964 quake. Seats literally shake as moviegoers absorb this intense theatrical experience.

But that’s not all: the theater also offers immersive shows that delve into Alaska’s rugged and regal terrain and animals. It’s a show that’s all-ages friendly; its 30-minute run time the perfect length for a break for downtown summer tourists who are looking to rest their feet and peer into Alaska’s wild spaces. Also downtown is the Fraternal Order of the Alaska State Troopers Alaska Law Enforcement Museum (245 W. Fifth Ave., Suite 113). Admission is free, and the museum is open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. weekdays and noon to 4 p.m. Saturdays. This specialty museum houses the state’s only collection of historical law enforcement memorabilia, including an authentically restored 1952 Hudson Hornet automobile. The Troopers museum also sports antique radios, handcuffs and leg irons, early wiretapping equipment, old photographs and documents and Alaska policing uniforms. There’s even a gift shop with Alaska State Troopers memorabilia and souvenirs. Over on Anchorage’s east side is the Alaska Museum of Science and Nature (201 N. Bragaw St.), showcasing the unique science of Alaska, from prehistoric times to present. That includes the state’s unique geological, cultural and ecological history. The museum is open from 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Thursday to Saturday. Museums in Anchorage are sometimes found in unusual places. Case in point, the Alaska Heritage Museum located in the Wells Fargo building in Midtown Anchorage (301 W. Northern Lights Blvd.). The museum highlights Wells Fargo’s history in the Alaska Gold Rush era, including an almost-to-scale stagecoach. Beyond that, this enormous private collection includes fine Alaska art, hundreds of Alaska Native artifacts and remarkable paintings by Alaska’s masters. As an added bonus, a stroll through the lobby of Alaska’s main Wells Fargo Branch offers an opportunity to enjoy stunning Sydney Laurence paintings. Near the airport is the Alaska Aviation Museum, situated on the shores of Lake Hood, a bustling seaplane base that in and of itself is worth a stop and photo op. Among the city’s top attractions, this museum includes artifacts and relics of Alaska’s incredible air travel history that will delight aviation buffs. There are more than two dozen vintage aircraft on display in four hangars, and also outdoor exhibits. Even as your Alaska vacation is ending, you have opportunities for arts and cultural immersion at Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport. First, on the lower level is the Alaska Sports Hall of Fame. This ever-growing exhibit celebrates Alaska athletes, sporting events and moments, paying homage to some of the state’s greats. A few names will ring bells with visitors from the Lower 48, like cross-country skiing Olympic gold medalist Kikkan Randall, and NBA vet Mario Chalmers. Other inductees offer interesting peeks into Alaska’s unique sports culture and arctic pursuits, known for celebrating dog mushing feats, mountain climbing and other athletic advocacy. The main airport past security features a bronze life-size statue of venerable U.S. Sen. Ted Stevens, for whom the airport is named. The statue depicts “Uncle Ted,” as Alaskans fondly called him, seated on a bench with an arm outstretched, as though mid-sentence and making a point. It’s a must-see for anyone interested in Alaska’s politics and history, in which Stevens played an essential role for many decades. Finally, on the airport’s top level is a display of Alaska Native art, where visitors can soak in beautiful creations unique to the 49th state before their northern adventure draws to a close.

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A beer flight at King Street Brewing Co. PHOTO BY MARA SEVERIN

BREWERIES IN ALASKA ARE BOOMING. HERE’S WHERE TO GET A TASTE. By M A R A S E V E R I N

exchange for living in what is perhaps the country’s most beautiful state, Alaskans sometimes have to do without: professional sports teams, In-N-Out Burger and, well, sunlight for half the year. But we make up for it with the Iditarod, reindeer sausages and aurora borealis chasing. In other words, we often have to make our own fun. And, sometimes, by “fun” I mean “beer.” Those words are interchangeable, right? Beer is a big part of life for Alaskans. We hike with it, camp with it, boat with it, cook with it and pair it with foods like the stuffiest of sommeliers. We throw it monthly birthday parties like the First Tap events at Broken Tooth Brewing Co. (otherwise known as Bear Tooth Theatrepub and Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria), complete with national musical acts like Norah Jones and Imagine Dragons. We 48

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even do yoga with it (at downtown’s sprawling Williwaw venue). In other words, we take it everywhere and we take it seriously. Beers from the state’s biggest brewery, Alaskan Brewing Co. based in Juneau, might already be in your refrigerator if you live in one of the 25 Western and Midwestern states where it’s available. Or you might have refreshed yourself with an Alaskan Amber on your Alaska Airlines flight on the way into Anchorage. By sales volume, it is the 19th largest craft brewery in the United States. With a steady line of signature brews — and some seasonal specialties that incorporate cranberries, raspberries, locally roasted coffee and even Alaska spruce tips — it’s the most well-established of all the state’s breweries. Ubiquitous around Alaska, this long-running brewery is our Papa Beer, if you will (I’ll show myself out). But Alaskan Brewing is just one of over 40 breweries in the state. And while almost half of them are in Anchorage or within a short drive of our state’s largest city (including the relatively populous communities of Girdwood, Eagle River, Palmer and Wasilla),

some of our most remote ports of call and tiniest towns (I’m looking at you, Gakona Brewery in Gakona, population 218) are emphatically in on the brewing action. The ever-expanding Denali Brewing Co. in Talkeetna (population 876) may be a small-town hero, but it’s anything but small. In fact, it’s currently the second-largest beer producer in Alaska. Their four signature beers — Mother Ale, Chuli Stout, Single Engine Red and the ever-popular Twister Creek IPA — are year-round mainstays of summer barbecues and winter bonfires around the state. Their brewery is also home to the recently established Alaska Cider Works, Alaska Meadery (featuring “Razzery,” a mead made with raspberries, sour cherries and apples) and Denali Spirits (featuring vodka, gin, whiskey and “smoke” whiskey) because when you’ve fermented one, why not ferment them all? But some breweries are even more remote. Ports of call and island hopping here can be one way to get your fill of hops. Breweries can be found in Ketchikan (Bawden Street Brewing Co. and Baleen Brewing Co.), Kodiak

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(Kodiak Island Brewing Co.), Homer (Homer Brewing Co. and Grace Ridge Brewing Co.), Valdez (Valdez Brewing), and Skagway (Klondike Brewing Co. and Skagway Brewing Co.). Of course, many trips to Alaska begin and end in Anchorage. And if, during your travels, you’ve foolishly left some beers untasted, you can make up for lost time in our state’s biggest city. Glacier Brewhouse specializes in “English and American West Coast style beers along with a elaborate oak aging program.” Opt for their Raspberry Wheat, Oatmeal Stout, Imperial Blonde, Bavarian Hefeweizen or a flight that includes them all. Or try their special cask-conditioned ale, which undergoes a secondary fermentation, resulting in a creamier end product. Matanuska Brewing Co., with two Anchorage locations, is part of a growing family of pubs serving their own beer, locally brewed at the former Matanuska Maid Creamery in Palmer. I’m a fan of the tart Backcountry Blue (berry) and the citrusy Magnitude 9.2. Down the street in downtown is 49th State Brewing Co., which expanded into Anchorage from its original location in Healy, at the edge of Denali National Park and Preserve. If you were unable to visit their flagship location, where you can sip beer while playing bocce or horseshoes on the lawn, you can catch up with them here. There are unique beer offerings like White Peach White (described as a “beer bellini”) or the dunkelweizen, a dark, unfiltered wheat beer that is, let’s face it, super fun to say. This location also boasts some

Midnight Sun Brewing Company patrons sample the product at the brewery in Anchorage. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

of the best views in town and an expansive outdoor rooftop patio (717 W. Third Ave.). Just about all of the full-service restaurants in downtown Anchorage proudly feature some variety of Alaska beers. Fat Ptarmigan pizzeria has an extensive list of local brews and is collaborating with Double Shovel Cider to open Anchorage Cider House, if your tastes run toward fermented fruit (441 W. Fifth Ave.). In the heart of downtown, Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse prides itself on a huge selection of beers, both international and local (610 W. Sixth Ave.). If you have transportation around the city, treat yourself to a brewery tasting-room tour. Found in unassuming little side streets in the more industrial areas of Anchorage, some of our best beers can be sipped and savored at the source. Finding these funky little spots can feel like being invited to a secret party. And it’s a glimpse into Anchorage’s most authentic beer culture. You might start by trying the most popular beer at Resolution Brewing Co.: Neighborhood IPA. Jokingly referred to as “the most diverse beer in Anchorage,” it celebrates its home neighborhood of Mountain View, which in recent years has received widespread media attention as the most diverse census tract in the United States (3024 Mountain View Dr. #106). Farther south are Onsite Brewing Co. (3211 Denali St.), King Street Brewing Co. (9050 King St.), Anchorage Brewing Co. (148 W. 91st Ave.), Turnagain Brewing (7920 King St.), Cynosure Brewing (144 E. Potter Dr.), Double Shovel Cider Co. (for a little variety; 502 W. 58th Ave. C), some of which are a stone’s

throw of one another. If you’re lucky, you might run into one of Anchorage’s popular food trucks parked outside, so you’ll have something to wash down with your flights. Nearby, Midnight Sun Brewing Co. is part tasting room and part community center, with First Friday art openings, a rotating menu of creative comfort food and an all-around cool, local vibe. My next-door neighbors frequent the brewery for their great brews (favorites include the Panty Peeler Belgian-style tripel and the Pleasure Town IPA) and also to pick up free spent grain to feed to their chickens (8111 Dimond Hook Dr.) Bear in mind that tasting rooms often have limited and varying hours, so be sure to check ahead — especially with pandemic precautions in play. If your travels are over and you still haven’t had your fill, check out the Silver Gulch Brewing & Bottling Co. inside Terminal C at the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport on your way out of town. An offshoot of the flagship Silver Gulch brewery in Fox, Alaska (about 10 miles north of Fairbanks), this location has a bar and restaurant as well as a retail shop, which means you can bring a taste of Alaska home in the shape of a growler. Whether your travels take you to finedining restaurants, low-key alehouses or even rustic cabins in the woods, make like an Alaskan and fuel your adventures with one of our beloved, home-grown brews. When in Alaska, drink as the Alaskans do.

A whitewater kayaker paddles down Mineral Creek in Valdez. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

VALDEZ: THERE ARE ENDLESS OPTIONS AT THE END OF THE ROAD By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

rriving at the end-of-the-road town of Valdez, visitors will be delighted to learn their Alaska adventure is just beginning. Located at the head of a fjord in eastern Prince William Sound, getting there is half the fun: From Anchorage, the 300-mile drive meanders past glaciers and striking mountains, edging along Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. But it is the Richardson Highway’s last stretch past Worthington Glacier, scaling dramatic Thompson Pass in the Chugach Range, and slicing through Keystone Canyon and its plummeting waterfalls where tourists must make use of photo-stop pullouts. In the canyon, watch for a half-built, hand-dug railroad tunnel whose completion was thwarted by an early-1900s shootout that also effectively crushed the future of the railway itself. While the Richardson route is stunning, travelers can mix it up by alternatively venturing to Valdez via Whittier aboard an Alaska Marine Highway System ferry, enjoying its unparalleled front-row views of beautiful Prince William Sound. Utilizing this option means that rather than drive in and out the same way, one can make a loop using the land and water routes. In many ways, Valdez is a delightfully small town. There is one post office, and many residents work for or in connection to the terminus of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System, visible across Port Valdez. But 50

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Valdez abounds in a surprising surplus of recreational options. It’s simple and fun to navigate, featuring a walkable downtown with long open roads, frequent and sweeping views of the surrounding incisor mountains that beckon to daring backcountry adventurers, and easy access to a glittering port that fills with fishermen, shrimpers, kayakers and sightseers. A number of hotels, camping and RV options promise choices when booking overnight accommodations. To delve into the town’s unique history, start with a visit to the original Valdez town site. In the early 1900s, like so many blooming Alaska locales, Valdez was a gold rush town. But its landscape changed forever when the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake triggered a tsunami that caused the deaths of 32 residents and the demise of the town as they knew it. The old site — just a few miles east of Valdez today — is now a quiet natural place of remembrance, marked with signage and a seaside pioneer cemetery. Salvageable buildings were moved to the town’s location today. Curious visitors can download a self-guided walking tour to view those buildings that survived the quake. The Valdez Museum and Historical Archive is another must-see for history buffs, full of relics and stories showcasing the town’s colorful history, from its earliest Alaska Native settlers to its modern form. The museum recommends visitors first stop by its location on Egan Drive — a main Valdez thoroughfare named for one of its more Alaskafamous citizens, Gov. William “Bill” Egan (1914-1984), whose birth home is nearby. For more on the earthquake, visit the museum site nearby on Hazelet Avenue. Valdez boasts a surprising assortment of satisfying restaurants

for a town of just 4,000 people. Topping the list is creative pizza joint The Fat Mermaid on North Harbor Drive, with a full bar and comprehensive menu, occasional live music and an outdoor dining area that offers sensational harbor mountain views. A cluster of food trucks also on North Harbor Drive offer delicious variety, among them local favorites Nat Shack, with artisan tacos and Cal-Mex fare; and Aunti Yum Yum’s, boasting bountiful Thai food options. Further east on North Harbor is The Roadside Potatohead, a corner-spot restaurant with the best beer and wine options in town, not to mention fantastic outdoor dining with dramatic views of the docks as fishermen haul in their catches of the day, and experts swift ly fi llet impressive salmon and halibut. Magpie’s, a bakery and restaurant on the corner of Hazelet and Galena Drive, offers delectable pastries and mimosas, a weekly farmers market, and a “Far North Follies” Valdez-themed variety show, with beer and wine available. For fine dining, and some of the best bar views in Alaska, don’t miss the nearby Wheelhouse at the Best Western Hotel. The menu boasts locally sourced seafood dishes and the bar affords unassailable views of the picturesque Port Valdez, especially on those long-lit summer nights. Valdez visitors will face endless opportunities to hike, bike, boat, kayak, fish and more. Valdez Stay and Play offers guided adventures like glacier tours and also electric bikes for rent. Anadyr Adventures and Pangea are the two main kayak outfits in town known for Nasturtiums brighten the delivering safe and unforgettable, fully outfitted experiences. scene at Valdez harbor. If paddling or fishing isn’t your thing, sit back and relax on a PHOTO BY ERIK HILL sightseeing charter; Stan Stephens Glacier and Wildlife Cruises is the most venerable and established, with smooth and far-reaching catamarans. Or stay on land entirely and hike up the short hill that hosts the Valdez Civic Center for sweeping views of Port Valdez; lounge in Adirondack chairs at the ferry dock to observe boats taxiing to and fro; or hang VALDEZ, ALASKA out at Ruth Pond to fish for trout and nibble a picnic lunch. For an added bonus, visit the first weekend in August during Valdez Gold Rush Days, when the town is transformed by its annual festival, adding events and street vendors to an already enticing mix. The Valdez vicinity serves as a jumpingoff point for countless remarkable hikes and trails, including the Dock Point Trail, Gold Creek Trail, the Valdez Glacier area for hikes and kayaking, and Mineral Creek, which cuts deep into the folds of the surrounding mountains toward old mining territory. Wildlife lovers should keep eyes on the harbor waters for lolling otters or the occasional orca, and look skyward for bald eagles. In summertime, it’s worth a drive around the bay to Allison Point for a chance to see black bears pawing waters near the hatchery for pink salmon. PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND GLACIER & WILDLIFE CRUISES For visitors seeking souvenirs to cement We take the time to let you experience ALL of the Sound - from the those Valdez memories, multiple local magnificent icebergs of Columbia Glacier, calving Meares Glacier, to companies cater to the discerning shopper. incredible wildlife. Let us show you what the he The Prospector remains the go-to spot for Sound has to offer as we share with you the outdoor gear. The Salty Lupine is a new shop remarkable history, geology and information featuring trendy Valdez-branded clothing of this abundant region. and gifts. The Valdez Art Co-Op sells adorable wares by local artists. And on the stanstephenscruises.com • 866.867.1297 waterfront, The Painted Moose is an excellent spot for gifts and trinkets. VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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Water gushes down Nugget Falls as visitors make a short hike to the cataract adjacent to Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

TAKING IN THE SIGHTS AROUND ALASKA’S CAPITAL CITY, JUNEAU

A pedestrian walks the Gold Creek Flume Trail on a soggy morning in Juneau. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

By M O L L I E B A R N E S

If you’re the person who says “both” when asked, “Do you prefer the mountains or the beach?” then Juneau is the place for you. Surrounded by sea and ice, Juneau’s mountains jut out, giving travelers a little bit of both. Long the land inhabited by the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian people, the capital city of Alaska got its Western name and infrastructure during the Gold Rush. This waterfront town is an outdoor enthusiast’s haven, and boasts that it has more miles of trails and mining tunnels than road (of which there are just 190). The absolute must-see for most travelers is the Mendenhall Glacier. There are many ways to see the glacier, depending on your level of comfort. The West Glacier Trail is by far one of the best bangs for your buck. While it includes a little bit of scrambling (up a waterfall, for example) the payoff is worth far more than it will cost you to get there. The trail is 3.5 miles out and back and brings you right up to the face of the glacier. For a more family-friendly/accessible option, the Nugget Falls Trail brings you around the other side of the Mendenhall Lake directly to a massive waterfall with views of the glacier from a bit farther away. (The short, informational video in the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is the cheapest tour of Juneau you’ll get.) Liquid Alaska offers canoe tours that go across the lake to bring you to the face of the glacier and across the top of the ice. Or, if you’re balling without a budget, you can charter a helicopter through Northstar, Coastal or Temsco Helicopters for a flightseeing tour that will land you on the glacier (tours cost about $300 or more). If you’re looking for a more relaxing way

than hiking to sightsee and get up close to a glacier, try a full day boat trip to Tracy Arm Fjord with Adventure Bound. For $165, this 10-hour tour is an exceptional value. Make sure to pack a cooler with snacks and beverages to enjoy while you cruise through a steep fjord, usually seeing whales, bears, eagles, harbor seals along the way, and culminating at one of the Sawyer Glaciers, which are often actively calving. Even if it’s cloudy or rainy, this trip is sure to be memorable and enjoyable — the glacier can look more blue when it’s overcast. If you’re looking for a shorter tour, several other companies offer two- to three-hour whale watching or city tours during the summer cruise ship season (check out Juneau Tours & Whale Watch and Allen Marine for options).

If you’re more of a plant lover than animal lover, check out the upside-down tree gardens at Glacier Gardens. They also offer tours up the mountain in small trams during the summer season. A good place to see fireweed is along Point Bridget Trail. The drive out the road to this trail also makes for great views of the looming Chilkat Mountains. Another top-notch Juneau experience is cabin camping. You can rent cabins online; however, weekends can generally get booked up to six months in advance so make sure to book far ahead of time. Most public cabins are in backcountry and require hiking your gear out. However, there are some private cabins that can be rented that are more accessible, such as those at the Shrine of St. Therese or on Airbnb. VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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Low clouds hug the mountains at Mendenhall Lake near the Mendenhall Glacier Visitors Center in Juneau. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

Good family activities include walking along Sandy Beach on Douglas Island. Ruins from the old mine that collapsed there give the beach a historic vibe, and informational signs along the way entertain and inform little ones. The Mount Roberts Tram usually runs during the summer cruise season, although hours may vary in 2021 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Most bars and restaurants remain open, although mask policies may still be in place. Here are some of my quick favorites if you’re looking for places to eat, drink, and shop: BEST VALUE BREAKFAST: Donna’s Restaurant. BEST FOOD IN THE MENDENHALL VALLEY: Zerelda’s Bistro (check their Instagram for specials). BEST FOOD DOWNTOWN: In Bocca Al Lupo (the chef specials are where it’s at). BEST FOOD ON DOUGLAS ISLAND: The Island Pub (try the salmon dip).

BEST FAMILY DINING: The Hangar on the Wharf (can’t go wrong with anything with the halibut). BEST BAR: Alaskan Hotel & Bar (especially on open mic nights or live music nights). BEST COCKTAILS: Amalga Distillery (early hours — closes at 8 p.m.), The Narrows (late night). BEST BREWERY: Devil’s Club Brewery Co. BEST PLACE TO DRINK WITH KIDS: Forbidden Peak Brewery, BEST DRUNK FOOD: Pelmini’s. BEST PEOPLE WATCHING: Triangle Club Bar and the downtown cruise ship docks, BEST PLACE TO NURSE A HANGOVER WITH SALTY POPCORN AND A BLOODY MARY: Red Dog Saloon (also best kitschy decor). BEST COFFEE: The Grind Coffee Co. BEST SHOPPING: Resolute Boutique, Treetop Tees. BEST CHEAP SOUVENIRS: Alaska Shirt Company.

BEST INSTAGRAM PHOTO OPS: The Whale Project, the flower wallpaper at Amalga Distillery, Nugget Falls, holding crab legs at Tracy’s Crab Shack, atop the platforms on the top of the Mount Roberts Tram. BEST SOUVENIRS: Whale tail necklaces from various downtown jewelry stores, whale tail salad tossers, Tlingit silver bracelets from Mt. Juneau Trading Post and others, kitschy matching shirts from the T-Shirt Company, Alaskan Brewing Company sweatshirts, smoked salmon from Taku Store, a Ray Troll “Spawn Till You Die” shirt. BEST PLACE TO CATCH A SUNSET WHEN IT’S SUNNY: Bonfire on the Outer Point Beach on North Douglas or Auke Recreation Area. BEST FOOD WHEN YOU’RE COLD FROM WALKING AROUND IN THE RAIN: Old Friend Noodle Soup from Lemon Tree Cafe.

Located at 535 Second Ave. in the Historic Empress Theater Upstairs in the Co-Op Plaza.

Dog Mushing

museum

Exhibits: Exhi bits:

Summer, Daily: 11– 5pm Winter, Daily: 11– 3pm

ADMISSION FREE(907) 457-3669

Winter in Fairbanks • The Great Flood • Klondike Gold Rush Early Fairbanks • The Driving Spirit (Dog Mushing) • Monthly Art Show

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EXPLORING FAIRBANKS, THE GOLDEN HEART CITY By D A V I D J A M E S

ocated near the geographic center of the state, Fairbanks is Alaska’s year-round tourism destination. Established along the Chena River in 1901, it originally served prospectors working outlying gold claims. In the 119 years since, it’s grown to include a university, two military bases, and has become the commercial hub of Interior Alaska. Owing to its inland climate, the town enjoys drier weather than most of Alaska, and hotter summers. On summer solstice, Fairbanksans bask in 22 hours and 49 minutes of direct sunlight. But with the sun setting just below the horizon before rising again, the town does not see darkness from early May until mid August. With the COVID-19 pandemic still an ongoing concern, it’s important to check with all businesses and facilities before visiting. While there are no borough or state restrictions outside of governmentrun buildings at present, masking, social

Soak up some sun on or off the water in Fairbanks. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

distancing and maximum capacity limits might be enforced on site. It’s best to know what’s requested of the public in advance, and kindly respect the wishes of those in charge of the establishments you wish to enter. The Fairbanks Convention and Visitors Bureau (101 Dunkel St.) is the place for

information, and has welcome centers along the riverfront downtown and in the nearby Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center. The Thompson Center provides an excellent introduction to the history and culture of Interior Alaska’s original inhabitants, the Athabascan people. Downtown has many shops and restaurants. The annual Midnight Sun Festival, hosted by the Downton Association, will take place in the city’s center on June 19. Though smaller than usual owing to the pandemic, it is still being billed as a “large outdoor gathering” and will include live music, vendors, and activities. Open yearround, nearby Pioneer Park (2300 Airport Way) offers fun for the whole family with playground equipment, historic buildings, a train ride, museums and more. Museums are scattered throughout town, including the Museum of the North on the University campus, which holds one of the state’s premier collections of Alaskan and Arctic artifacts. The Fairbanks Community Museum (535 Second Ave., #215) focuses on city history. Car buffs will motor toward the Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum (212 Wedgewood Dr.), while summer visitors wanting a taste of winter can experience

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twenty below temperatures at the Ice Museum. And restless young ones will enjoy a stop at the Fairbanks Children’s Museum (302 Cushman St. Suite 101). Fairbanks has a lively, close knit, and very supportive arts community, with several galleries open year round to display the work of local artists. For those seeking a deeper knowledge of Alaska and its culture, its people, and its history, the secondhand bookstore Forget-Me-Not Books (517 Gaffney Rd.) operated by and benefiting the Literacy Council of Alaska, always has a large selection of Alaska-related books – some of them quite rare – along with plenty of other volumes on all topics. Much of Fairbanks’ growth has been driven by the gold and oil industries. A tour of Gold Dredge 8 north of town gives visitors a taste of the rich gold mining history of Fairbanks, while the nearby Trans-Alaska Pipeline Viewpoint lets people walk right up to one of the world’s engineering marvels. For a taste of nature, Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge, located on the north side of town, offers birding and wildlife viewing as well as miles of walking trails. The Large Animal Research Station (2220 Yankovich Rd.) on the north part of the University of Alaska Fairbanks campus allows visitors a close look at musk oxen. Sportspersons looking to go fishing or hunting first need to obtain the proper license from the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. The Department also has advice for obtaining a licensed and qualified guide to help arrange transportation, supplies, and other needs to make the experience complete. For outdoors recreation, hiking and/ or mountain biking trails can be found on the UAF campus, at the nearby Birch Hill Recreation Area, in the Chena River State Recreation Area east of town, and elsewhere. All of these trails are open to skiers in winter. The Chena River winds through downtown and is popular with paddlers. Mountain bikes, canoes, and kayaks can be rented from several

establishments, skis and fat bikes can be rented in winter. The Fairbanks Hiking Club, Fairbanks Cycle Club, Fairbanks Paddlers, and Running Club North can be contacted for information. All four welcome out of town guests to their events. ATVs and snowmachines can be rented for excursions on the vast network of public multiple-use trails that extend in all directions beyond Fairbanks. Check with rental companies for information on accessing the best trails. For getaways, Denali National Park is just a two hour drive south, and the Arctic Circle about five hours north. The Riverboat Discovery Tour provides the opportunity to slip out of town and head down the Chena and Tanana Rivers via sternwheeler. The nearby town of North Pole is home to the Santa Claus House, where it’s Christmas all year. A bit further down the road is the Chena Lake Recreation Area. Popular with paddlers cyclists, walkers, and swimmers, the park also has 45 campsites. Many races are available for those seeking a workout. The Midnight Sun Run, held on the Saturday night closest to the June solstice usually attracts as many as 3000 participants to a 10 p.m., 10K dash. This year the event will be held virtually. Entrants need to run a 10K route of their choice between June 19-22 and submit their results. See the race website for further details. In September, the Equinox Marathon, starting and finishing at the University, is one of the most grueling marathon courses in America. This year there will be a full marathon, as well as a half, but no relay. Restaurants for all tastes and budgets abound, including a remarkable number of very good Thai restaurants. And later, visitors can kick back at one of the growing number of breweries and distilleries.

FAIRBANKS IN WINTER Winters bring icy temperatures dipping to minus 40 or more, and visitors should come

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prepared. But usually it’s nowhere near this severe. And with the dry climate and minimal wind, zero in Fairbanks can feel warmer than 30 above in Anchorage. Winter solstice brings just three hours and 41 minutes of daylight, but the low lying sun envelops the town and hills in a beautiful pink and golden glow. And by late January the light is back. Fairbanks is the ideal location for aurora viewing and a number of local businesses cater to this growing clientele. It also offers some of the best winter recreational opportunities in Alaska. Snowmobile tours are gaining in popularity, and several guides offer them, both near town and further afield. Dogsled tours are available for those wanting to experience mushing. For spectators, the Yukon Quest alternates beginning and finishing with the city of Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory every year. For winter athletes, the Chena River to Ridge Race offers 25 and 50 mile routes for skiers, fat bikers, and runners every March, while the White Mountains 100 presents those same groups with a challenging 100 mile trip though the White Mountains National Recreation Area about an hour north of town. Even those with more modest ambitions can rent fat bikes for winter excursions on the trails in Goldstream Valley and cross country skis for the trails on Birch Hill and the University campus. Downhill ski runs can be found on Birch Hill and Moose Mountain. Finally, no visit to Fairbanks is complete without a trip to Chena Hot Springs Resort, 56 miles east of town. While open year round, winter is the best time to climb into the outdoor pools. The hot water keeps bathers comfortable even as air temperatures drop below zero, snow and ice sweep upward from the pool edges, and the northern lights dance in the sky. It’s the quintessential Fairbanks experience, and one of the reasons why many residents consider winter in Fairbanks the best season of all.

FAIRS AND FESTIVALS HAPPENING AROUND ALASKA THIS SUMMER Alaskans know how to throw a party in the summer. Here are the fairs and festivals scheduled across the state in summer 2021.

FOURTH OF JULY AND MOUNT MARATHON July 1-4 and 7, Seward The Seward Chamber of Commerce is planning a “one-of-a-kind Seward Fourth of July” extended weekend. There will be a boat parade on the evening of July 3, with fireworks at midnight. On the morning of July 4, there will be a mini-Mount Marathon Race — a relay for the youngsters — with the Fourth of July Parade in the afternoon. Mount Marathon is taking place on Wednesday, July 7, a move designed to spread out the volume of visitors over the holiday weekend. (seward.com)

KIP MOORE AND ASHLEY MCBRYDE 6-11 p.m., July 3, Wasilla Nashville musician Kip Moore and singer-songwriter Ashley McBryde will headline the Menard Sports Center for a Fourth of July concert, featuring special guest Kendall Marvel. $48. (ericksonevents.com)

3 BARONS PRESENTS: THE CROWN’S MARKET PLACE July 10-11, Anchorage A Renaissance market with fair food, vendors and performances at the Tozier Dog Track. (3barons.org)

BEAR PAW FESTIVAL July 14-18, Eagle River There will be food and carnival rides in Eagle River. Additional details to be announced. (bearpawfestival.org)

FAIRBANKS SUMMER ARTS FESTIVAL Various times and locations, July 18-Aug. 1, Fairbanks This July arts festival will feature 60 guest artists from Fairbanks and around the world. A spokesperson for the festival said there will also be 120 workshops for aspiring artists of all skill levels and ages, spanning 15 different genres. Registrants can take workshops to learn anything from the marimba to jazz percussion and Celtic fiddle. (fsaf.org)

SOUTHEAST ALASKA STATE FAIR July 29-Aug. 1, Haines Plans are underway for a 2021 Southeast State Fair, with additional details to come. (seakfair.org)

BACK TO BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL July 31-Aug. 1, McGrath McGrath’s local station, KSKO, hosts this two-day festival every year in support of public radio — featuring music, food and fun for everyone. (facebook.com/backtobluegrass)

COPPER RIVER SALMON JAM Various times and locations, July 12-17, Cordova This spread-out celebration for the city of Cordova will allow residents and out-of-town attendees to participate when they please. In addition to the marathon, halfmarathon race, 10-kilometer and 5-kilometer races, the festival will host a food show, canvas painting class and artisan market. (salmonjam.org)

Horseshoes & Hand Grenades plays during the 2017 Salmonfest in Ninilchik. PHOTO BY RUGILE KALADYTE

SALMONFEST Aug. 6-8, Kenai Peninsula Fairgrounds, Ninilchik One of Alaska’s biggest music festivals, this year spread across 50 acres to allow for more social distancing. Tickets range from $138.50-$145. (salmonfestalaska. org)

ALASKA STATE FAIR Aug. 20-Sept. 6, Palmer The Alaska State Fair is back, with schedule spanning three weekends to spread out fairgoers. The concert lineup includes Billy Idol, Martina McBride, Jon Pardi, Dashboard Confessional, The Guess Who and more. The fair will be closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Ticket prices vary. (alaskastatefair.org)

SELDOVIA CRAFT INVITATIONAL CHAINSAW CARVING COMPETITION 8 a.m.-11 p.m., Sept. 4, Seldovia

Talk a walk down main street and view works of art from chainsaw carvers. Following the competition, carvings become property of the Seldovia Chamber of Commerce and are hosted across Seldovia by local businesses and parks.

GIRDWOOD FUNGUS FAIR Sept. 4-5, Girdwood Celebrate the fall season during Labor Day weekend while learning fungus facts and discovering local mushrooms. More details expected in July. (fungusfair.com)

SELDOVIA LABOR DAY FESTIVAL Sept. 4-5, Seldovia Enjoy performances on the main stage over the holiday weekend in Seldovia. More details to come. (youotterbehere.com)

CORDOVA FUNGUS FESTIVAL Sept. 10-12, Cordova There will be events available inperson and online for fungi-lovers alike, with options for all ages. More details to come. (cordovafungusfest. com)

SEWARD MUSIC AND ARTS FESTIVAL Sept. 24-25, Seward Swing by Seward for live music and dance performances, in addition to food vendors and artisan crafters. More details to come. (sewardfestival.com) People enjoy the Golden Wheel Amusements carnival at the Bear Paw Festival in Eagle River. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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There’s no knowing what kind of friendly faces you’ll find in the Matanuska-Susitna Borough. PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

VISIT MAT-SU AND GET A TASTE OF EVERYTHING THAT’S MAGIC ABOUT ALASKA By A L L I H A R V E Y

rive less than an hour north of Anchorage and the landscape changes dramatically as you enter Mat-Su. The view opens up to showcase dramatic peaks rising steeply from a vast, flat valley floor. This is only the beginning. At 25,000 square miles, the MatanuskaSusitna Borough is nearly the size of West Virginia. The attractions of this region are varied and surprising; you will find everything from world-class wilderness experiences to historic sites and museums and delicious and uniquely Alaskan eats. The charms of the Mat-Su start even before you reach its official boundary. In Eagle River, be like a local on a sunny Saturday and hike up Mount Baldy; a short, steep climb to above treeline with terrific views. You’ll earn your lunch — and schooner-sized signature beer — at Pizza Man, chased by a quick pick-me-up from the well-loved coffee shop Jitters. Not quite ready to leave the area? Head a little farther north on the Glenn Highway and take the exit to Eklutna Lake. Rent kayaks for the day and paddle out on this pristine, glacial lake that supplies Anchorage with its drinking water.

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Next stop: Palmer. You could spend an afternoon or a lifetime here and have plenty to do. Downtown is postcard-picturesque with breathtaking mountain views. Park the car and take a walk: check out the Palmer Museum of History and Art, duck into the well-loved independent Fireside Books, fuel up at delicious and superbly run Turkey Red restaurant, and top your visit off with a flight at 203 Kombucha, a modern and community-minded kombuchery. Need to Experience and photograph this Ice Age survivor up-close with an interpretive tour of our unique working farm

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stretch your legs? Options range from hiking the well-loved local Butte to more strenuous hiking on Lazy Mountain. On your way out of town, pay a visit to the Musk Ox Farm to learn firsthand about this unique and iconic Arctic creature from knowledgeable guides. Heading north, don’t miss historic Hatcher Pass. Hatcher Pass Road winds 12 miles from downtown Palmer and over 3,000 feet up into the Talkeetna mountains, with incredible views at every turn. Learn about the area’s mining history by visiting the museum set right in the alpine at Independence Mine State Historic Park; take a hike and see remnants from perilous gold mining operations amid the jaw-dropping tundra scenery. If an afternoon visit isn’t enough, stay over at Hatcher Pass Lodge in one of the adorable red A-frame cabins. Or, just grab a bite in the cozy cafe with stellar views. Wasilla gets a bad rap for its strip malls and big box stores. Locals know there’s much more just off the beaten path. Pay a visit to the Wasilla Museum and Visitors Center to orient yourself. Venture down Knik-Goose Bay Road to the Knik Museum, situated at what was once the most populated community along Cook Inlet. Golf much? Keep driving, and tee off at Settlers Bay Golf Course. Back in the core of Wasilla? Don’t miss a meal at delicious and creative Basil Ginger restaurant. Take advantage of convenient one-stop-shopping by fueling up the car and getting groceries before continuing north. Talkeetna is as charming and quirky as Alaska towns come. The walkable downtown is like a scene from the ‘90s TV show “Northern Exposure” — if it were actually filmed in Alaska. The journey down the 14-mile spur road to town from the main highway is long because there’s so much to see. Inventive and tasty Denali Brewing Co. cannot be missed; ditto with Flying Squirrel Bakery Cafe, a standalone gem tucked away in the forest. Alaska Wild Harvest offers tours and tastings in its birch syrup production

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Sunbathers at Newcomb Park wade in Wasilla Lake during a sunny day. PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

facility and wonderful gift shop. Approaching town, the Denali view on a clear day is worth the entire trek. A visit to Talkeetna Roadhouse is a must — either to stay or to feast, or both; visit Dancing Leaf Gallery for a flavor of well-curated local art and craft. Want to get a closer look at Denali? Check out the options for flightseeing tours. Finally, push the boundary of the Mat-Su region and your physical ability by paying a visit to Denali State Park. No, this isn’t the national park and you won’t actually summit The Mountain. But you’ll still experience thrilling and wild Alaska outdoors with an

overnight at K’esugi Ken Campground, and a hike up the slow but steadily uphill Curry Ridge trail that has stellar and consistent Denali views. If there’s one region in Alaska with a little taste of everything magic about the state, it’s Mat-Su. Fuel up, power down, explore and enjoy all that you’ll find in this amazing corner of the world.

VISITORS’ GUIDE •

2021 —

ALASKA

The city of Kodiak PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

KODIAK AND THE ALASKA PANHANDLE: LUSH GREEN LANDSCAPES ARE JUST THE BEGINNING by J E N N A S C H N U E R

ust a taste of Kodiak’s island life or the summer hustle of the fishing towns of Southeast Alaska leave most people wanting more. So much more. With busy fishing fleets, thriving art and food scenes, vibrant Native communities and quirky little museums, it’s hard not to fall deeply, madly in love with Alaska’s largest island and coastal communities. You can drive to a few towns in Southeast, but those road trips require many, many miles. For a first visit, your best bet is to travel by boat or plane. (Note: Travel by boat has become more complicated lately due to the beleaguered state of Alaska’s ferry system; if you’re hoping to travel the Alaska Marine Highway System, be sure to check updates at dot.alaska.gov/amhs and the latest news at ADN.com.) One word of advice — pack some waterproof layers. Known as the Alaska Panhandle, Southeast Alaska is part of the world’s largest temperate rainforest. There’s a reason for all that lush greenery you’ll see as you travel through. Ketchikan normally gets just under 23 inches of rain between June and August — but some years, it blows that average out of the, um, water. From May to August 2001, Ketchikan residents (grudgingly) welcomed 57.12 inches of rain to town.

KODIAK Famous for its sizable namesake brown bears, Kodiak should be just as well known to outsiders for its ever-so-green landscape — its nickname is the Emerald Isle. Kodiak Island is, to put it mildly, a beauty. Between Kodiak City and the villages, there are around 13,000 year-round residents on the island. Hike the local trails. Launch a kayak or stand-up paddleboard in Anton Larsen Bay. Keep watch for whales or, often just as thrilling, puffins speeding by. Drive out Anton Larsen Bay Road to see the island’s famed wild bison. (Just slow down as you approach them. You don’t want to startle a herd of something

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VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2021

so sizable.) Dig into Kodiak’s history at the Alutiiq Museum — home to more than 250,000 artifacts, recordings and documents — or the Kodiak History Museum (formerly known as the Baranov Museum). Get ideas for the next day’s adventures over a brew at Kodiak Island Brewing Co.

SITKA It could be the mist or fog that often hugs Sitka. Or perhaps it’s the insane sunsets that take over the entire sky. Maybe it’s just the really good coffee at the local bookstore. Whichever “it” of Sitka grabs you, the place sticks with visitors forever. Ignore the rain and keep on paddling during a guided kayak trip around the islands off Sitka. Walk the pathways and take time at each totem pole at Sitka National Historical Park. The park, where Russians invaded and fought the Kiks.adi Tlingit people, offers an immersion course in the Russian occupation of the town. Sitka served as the capital of Russian America from 1808 until Alaska became part of the the United States 59 years later. Open the drawers in the exhibition space of the Sheldon Jackson Museum — first opened in 1887 — to see antique children’s

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toys, jewelry and more beautiful artifacts. It’s quite the intimate and peaceful museum experience. Classical music fans would do well to time their visit to the annual Sitka Summer Music Festival (occurring over June 5-26), when some of the world’s best chamber music groups perform. The festival turns 50 this year and there will be a grand celebration of the reopening of Stevenson Hall. For a locally-made treasure, head straight to the Island Arts Gallery, a co-op run by 24 of the town’s artists.

KETCHIKAN Ketchikan tends to be all hustle and bustle in the summer when cruise ships are in, but there’s more to the town than just that. Ketchikan has one of Southeast Alaska’s most colorful art scenes. Get the lowdown on who creates what on the Ketchikan Area Arts and Humanities Council site. The city’s bestknown artist, Ray Troll, is the talent behind the punny T-shirts you’ll see everywhere from airport gift shops to festivals across the state. Check out Troll’s work, along with pieces by Evon Zerbetz and many of Ketchikan’s other fine artists, at the Soho Coho art gallery (5 Creek St.). But the art goes on … from the docks to the school buildings, the island community celebrates local artists at every turn. Turn a walk around town into a public art treasure hunt. Or, for art that’s equal parts craftsmanship and storytelling, visit the Totem Heritage Center — or just keep your eyes open for some of the many, many totem poles around town. Prefer learning about the, ahem, saucier side of olden times? Stop in at Dolly’s House Museum (24 Creek St.) to learn about Ketchikan’s Prohibition-era red light district. Then, take a flight trip out to Misty Fjords National Monument for the chance to kayak among whales.

A ranger discusses a totem pole in the Sitka National Historic Park. NPS PHOTO

SKAGWAY This is Klondike Gold Rush territory, flat out. Skagway has its modern bits —Glacial Smoothies & Espresso, two breweries Skagway Brewing Co. and Klondike Brewing Co. and gift shops that sell things that aren’t made in Alaska — but at its core it’s a town-sized Gold Rush museum. Home of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, visitors intent on camping should consider staking their tents in the former town of Dyea, home to ruins and cemeteries that include gravesites of many a person who once moved to the area to strike it rich. Of course, there’s plenty more to explore here, with trails to hike and, after a helicopter ride out, glaciers to dog sled on. One of the only Southeast towns accessible by road (via the Klondike Highway), visitors can also get to town by air, ferry or, during nonpandemic summers, cruise ship.

VISITORS’ GUIDE •

2021 —

ALASKA

Independence Day fireworks in Seward shortly after midnight PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

YOUR GUIDE TO AN EPIC SEWARD HIGHWAY ROAD TRIP By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

fter exhausting Anchorage’s excursions, ditch the city for a stunning southbound road trip on the Seward Highway, enjoying side diversions galore, culminating in the scenic harbor town of Seward. This fabled 125-mile stretch of road runs alongside a slender tendril of water called Turnagain Arm before ascending into the dramatic Chugach and Kenai Mountains, where ancient glaciers wink through summertime greenery. The road slides past tiny communities, roadhouses and aquamarine alpine lakes before dropping down at last into Seward, situated on the edge of Resurrection Bay. The time-pressed traveler could make it to Seward and back in

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one long, full day, logging five-plus hours of road travel alone. This memorable trip is better enjoyed across two or more days and nights, allowing for ponderous side stops to take in distinctive Alaskan experiences and surprisingly delicious dining, making plenty of time for meandering, picture-taking, and enjoying Alaska’s unparalleled beauty.

GIRDWOOD Don’t miss a stop-off in Girdwood, located about 45 minutes south of Anchorage. This laid-back artsy ski resort town sits a few miles inland from the highway. Girdwood relocated inland after the 1964 earthquake, and today is a collection of small but memorable restaurants, charming art galleries, ski chalets and condos, and a single school for the town’s youth. Girdwood is a recreation mecca. Winter slopes and ski lifts are transformed to host adventurous downhill mountain biking come summer. Play it safer and pedal paved paths across town, enjoying the mild climate and slow pace. A popular pit stop for hikers, the Winner Creek Trail is accessible just behind the lovely Hotel Alyeska. The more athletic might forge the famous Crow Pass trail, an undertaking 21 miles long.

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The good news: it can be enjoyed in smaller bites as a scenic day hike. The first few miles of the trail yield rewards aplenty, winding upward from Girdwood with breathtaking views of glaciers, remnants of long-gone gold mining, and jagged mountaintops. For dining, there are a number of great options. Begin your day with breakfast at a local icon, the Bake Shop (194 Olympic Mountain Loop). A morning-time staple for 40-plus years, the Bake Shop features homestyle favorites like sourdough pancakes and sweet rolls. Or, go for lunch and enjoy scratch homemade soups and sandwiches on freshly baked bread. If you find yourself in Girdwood in the evening, try dinner at Jack Sprat (165 Olympic Mountain Loop). Its regional cuisine with an Alaska touch is truly special, highlighting seasonal fresh produce and locally sourced protein such as halibut. Its tall chalet windows offer lovely views of the mountainous landscape. Nearby, the menu rarely changes at Double Musky Inn (Mile 0.3 Crow Creek Road), but why mess with perfection? The tucked-away steakhouse known for its busy French Quarter décor and even busier wait times on weekends combines a world-class wine cellar with spot-

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on Creole classics enlivened with an Alaskan flair. It has delighted locals and tourists alike for decades.

PORTAGE Portage was once a highway-side town at the head of Turnagain Arm, another ‘64 earthquake casualty with little remaining today but decomposing cabins overtaken by aggressive brush. In its place, the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center (Mile 79 Seward Highway) is a sprawling sanctuary teeming with activity, sure to please the animal lovers. This nonprofit complex provides large-enclosure spaces for orphaned and rehabilitating Alaska animals such as bears, moose, musk ox and caribou, and is open year-round. Visitors can view the animals by either driving or walking the 1.5-mile loop that encircles the center and venturing along multiple boardwalks and paths. There is a snack bar on site, and a gift shop with charming momentos. Hours are 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. May to August, and 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. in September.

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VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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ALASKA

exhibits fi ll its snug space, capturing the story of Whittier’s very original history, including reflections of its military heritage during World War II and the Cold War.

SEWARD

A crew member harpoons a 70-pound halibut. PHOTO BY MATTHEW ELLIS

Valley Road will deliver the curious traveler to two worthy destinations: the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center, and beyond that, the city of Whittier. The Begich, Boggs Visitor Center (Portage Lake Loop) sits about 5 miles east of the highway and opens from late May to early September. The center is built on the edge of Portage Lake on the moraine left by the receding Portage Glacier in 1914. The glacier is visible via boat trips to its front. The center itself offers science-geared educational opportunities for adults and kids alike. Drive farther and travelers will encounter a truly different experience by way of the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. The 2.5-mile-long, one-way highway toll tunnel is the longest in North America, a dark and moody viaduct slicing through the formidable mountains, originally a train tunnel connecting the western side of Turnagain Arm to the military port town of Whittier. Find tunnel schedules online to time your visit accordingly. Whittier exists as an important deep-water port, with a quirky community where most residents call one of two large buildings home; the visible lack of buildable land quickly explains this odd residential reality. For activities, there are glacier-viewing boats, regular cruise ship stops, a fine harbor-view hotel called the Inn at Whittier (5A Harbor Loop Road) and also camping and RV options. Frankly, the tunnel experience itself is strange enough to be worth a one-hour side trip. But if you have time, visit the small but surprisingly comprehensive Prince William Sound Museum. An impressive number of 64

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Finally, the Seward Highway delivers you to scenic Seward, a town of about 2,800 year-round residents surrounded by the magnificent mountains of Resurrection Bay. The town’s economy is a hodgepodge of of fishing outfits, kayak companies, sightseeing excursions, shops, restaurants and bars, the Alaska Vocational Technical Center, and the eerie Spring Creek Correctional Center, a maximum security prison just visible across the bay. Highlights of Seward include the Alaska SeaLife Center (301 Railway Ave.), a hands-on aquarium and working science facility that boasts opportunities to ogle diving puffins and swimming sea lions, peer at octopus up close, and learn about the special place that is Resurrection Bay. From the SeaLife Center, a leisurely walk up Fourth Avenue provides a serene sense of Seward’s long-ago frontier culture, with its Old West storefronts, historical murals, steepled churches, commemorative plaques and charming old architecture. Additionally, a paved footpath runs from the SeaLife Center along the waterfront, past RV spots and campgrounds. Seward has plenty of hotel, rental and camping options for those overnighting it. Day cruises through Kenai Fjords National Park are an incredibly popular way to see the glorious waters just beyond this pretty waterfront town. Otters, seals, puffins, orcas and various migrating whales all may play cameos on these half- or full-day charters, some of which include island stopovers for meals. If you would rather see a glacier by foot, carve out a couple of hours for Exit Glacier. Located just inside Kenai Fjords National Park, this glacier at the edge of the Harding Icefield has notably receded in recent years, and signposts mark where the glacier fronted in years past. A moderately graded walking path leads to overlooks where the glacier is easily visible and photographable. While in Seward, adventurous anglers may opt for a half- or full-day halibut or salmon fishing charter. Charters typically provide all fishing gear, and in town, there are options for having fish fi lleted and flash-frozen for shipping after your excursion ends. These trips depart early and return late and make for a full Alaskan experience. Play your cards right, and you will enjoy the scenery of a wildlife-viewing trip while returning home with a freezer full of fish to commemorate your unique and unforgettable Alaska experience long after it’s over.

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KENAI PENINSULA: BIG FISH, GORGEOUS VISTAS, SMALL TOWN CHARM bY B A I L E Y B E R G

Fishermen clean their catch at Miller’s Landing outside of Seward.

PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

ccessible wilderness, heaps of trails and enough trophy fish to spawn “it was THIS big” stories for years to come, it’s easy to see why the Kenai Peninsula is often referred to as “Alaska’s playground.” While there are oodles of worthwhile spots to visit, here are just a few to get you started.

HOPE Impossibly charming, Hope is a worthwhile detour for those zipping down to conquer the Kenai Peninsula. The atmospheric downtown with stunning views of Turnagain Arm offers a good jumping-off point for a variety of hikes. Gull Rock Trail, an old wagon road, is a local favorite — it’s 5 miles one way with negligible elevation gain. Hope Point is a strenuous climb following an alpine ridge that offers incredible views (and serious bragging rights). Those looking for an adrenaline rush can book a rafting trip down Six Mile Creek. For those looking for a more relaxing trip, there are heaps of cabins with cozy porches ideal for cracking into a book, the Dirty Skillet makes for a solid dinner spot, and the Seaview Cafe attracts some of the better Alaska bands for nighttime entertainment.

SEWARD Just over 120 miles away, Seward could make a nice day trip from Anchorage. But why rush? It has all the Alaska elements: water, mountains, forests, fishing and quirky local charm. Want to see a glacier up close? Access them by water in Kenai Fjords National Park or by land at Exit Glacier. Want to see sweeping views of Resurrection Bay? Meet Mount Marathon and marvel at how local and international athletes get to the top, and back again, in one of Alaska’s most iconic footraces each year (traditionally held on the Fourth of July, but moved to July 7 for 2021). Looking for something the whole family will enjoy? Don’t miss the touch pool at the Alaska SeaLife Center and look for vessels with pun-inspired names in the harbor. Complement your adventures with a meal at one of the local eateries, many of which are housed in historic buildings.

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SOLDOTNA AND KENAI Drive through these towns in the height of summer and you’ll notice many cars laden with big, round dipnets, rods and reels with all the bells and whistles, coolers and muddy Xtratuf boots. The salmon that return en masse to the Kenai River are legendary, and locals look to fill their freezers with the muscular kings, shiny silvers and ruby reds.

VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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ALASKA

Sea otters bob along the surface of Kachemak Bay offshore from Homer. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

(Be advised: The area’s dipnet fishery is deservedly famous but open to state residents only. See our fishing guide for an overview of other great options, and always make sure you have the correct permits; the Department of Fish and Game’s We Fish AK site is a good place to start, or call 907-267-2218.) If fishing doesn’t call to you, there are breweries with airy patios, the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters & Visitors Center offers naturalist-led outdoor programs, and Soldotna’s Homestead Museum showcases homesteaders’ cabins with free guided tours.

a bird’s-eye view of nearby glaciers and wildlife on a flightseeing tour; cruise around on a water taxi looking for sea creatures; try your hand at reeling in a “barn-door” sized halibut on a charter; or take a water taxi across the bay to Halibut Cove, an artist enclave known for divine dishes at The Saltry Restaurant and stunning scenery.

HOMER Visitors to Homer find there are many ways to explore “the end of the road.” Just 220 miles from Anchorage, the town sits between the water and the mountains and extends out onto a skinny, 4.5-milelong spit. It’s a town where fisherman, artists, beer-lovers, foodies, musicians, adventurers and beachcombers all feel at home. It’s easy to while away a few days — tramp along the beautiful trail systems, check out the tide pools, eat at first-rate restaurants, pick through the various art galleries and handicraft stores. You can learn a bit more about the 49th state’s local ecosystem at the Center for Alaskan Coastal Studies or the Exxon oil spill at the Pratt Museum. If time and budget allow, tick off some bucket list experiences: Get

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2021 ALASKA VISITORS' GUIDE

Articles inside

Visiting is a capital idea

Explore Hope, Seward Soldotna, Kenai and Homer

The best of Alaska in one scenic roadtrip

Life on the water’s edge

Art and adventure abound

ALASKA FESTIVALS

Land of spectacular extremes

Endless options await

Downtown Anchorage packs a lot in a small area

A wealth of arts and culture

A guide to Alaska breweries

Searching for Alaska’s fi nest bites? Start with seafood

Anchorage’s vibrant coffee culture

FLIGHTSEEING

TRAILS

DENALI

WILDLIFE

HIKING

WRANGELL ST. ELIAS

Exploring Anchorage’s terrifi c trail system

GLACIERS