A whitewater kayaker paddles down Mineral Creek in Valdez. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL
VALDEZ: THERE ARE ENDLESS OPTIONS AT THE END OF THE ROAD By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R
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rriving at the end-of-the-road town of Valdez, visitors will be delighted to learn their Alaska adventure is just beginning. Located at the head of a fjord in eastern Prince William Sound, getting there is half the fun: From Anchorage, the 300-mile drive meanders past glaciers and striking mountains, edging along Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. But it is the Richardson Highway’s last stretch past Worthington Glacier, scaling dramatic Thompson Pass in the Chugach Range, and slicing through Keystone Canyon and its plummeting waterfalls where tourists must make use of photo-stop pullouts. In the canyon, watch for a half-built, hand-dug railroad tunnel whose completion was thwarted by an early-1900s shootout that also effectively crushed the future of the railway itself. While the Richardson route is stunning, travelers can mix it up by alternatively venturing to Valdez via Whittier aboard an Alaska Marine Highway System ferry, enjoying its unparalleled front-row views of beautiful Prince William Sound. Utilizing this option means that rather than drive in and out the same way, one can make a loop using the land and water routes. In many ways, Valdez is a delightfully small town. There is one post office, and many residents work for or in connection to the terminus of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System, visible across Port Valdez. But 50
ALASKA —
VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2021
Valdez abounds in a surprising surplus of recreational options. It’s simple and fun to navigate, featuring a walkable downtown with long open roads, frequent and sweeping views of the surrounding incisor mountains that beckon to daring backcountry adventurers, and easy access to a glittering port that fills with fishermen, shrimpers, kayakers and sightseers. A number of hotels, camping and RV options promise choices when booking overnight accommodations. To delve into the town’s unique history, start with a visit to the original Valdez town site. In the early 1900s, like so many blooming Alaska locales, Valdez was a gold rush town. But its landscape changed forever when the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake triggered a tsunami that caused the deaths of 32 residents and the demise of the town as they knew it. The old site — just a few miles east of Valdez today — is now a quiet natural place of remembrance, marked with signage and a seaside pioneer cemetery. Salvageable buildings were moved to the town’s location today. Curious visitors can download a self-guided walking tour to view those buildings that survived the quake. The Valdez Museum and Historical Archive is another must-see for history buffs, full of relics and stories showcasing the town’s colorful history, from its earliest Alaska Native settlers to its modern form. The museum recommends visitors first stop by its location on Egan Drive — a main Valdez thoroughfare named for one of its more Alaskafamous citizens, Gov. William “Bill” Egan (1914-1984), whose birth home is nearby. For more on the earthquake, visit the museum site nearby on Hazelet Avenue. Valdez boasts a surprising assortment of satisfying restaurants
