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Downtown Anchorage packs a lot in a small area

resistant to experimental recipes. Drawn butter and perhaps a few lemon wedges are, for me, the ideal accompaniment to this peculiarly sweet delicacy. Happily, many of Anchorage’s best restaurants share my view. Haute Quarter Grill, Crow’s Nest, 49th State Brewing Company, Simon & Seafort’s, and Tent City Taphouse all o er this decadent treat, by the pound, in its simplest form. And if you want your old-school dish served in an old-school dining room, head to Club Paris, which has been serving seafood and steak since the 1950s, and where you can eat your crab with a side of nostalgia and a dash of “Mad Men” air.

Of course, I’m still open to a cheeky king crab o ering like Altura Bistro’s deeply decadent red king crab macaroni and cheese featuring fresh gemelli, hatch chilies, aged white cheddar, fontina, grana, and gremolata. And while there do not — I repeat, do not pass up a bowl of their sweet prawn bisque.

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SCALLOPS

A ne-dining destination with low-key charm is e Marx Brothers Café, located in a diminutive, freestanding, historic house on ird Avenue in downtown. A bit of planning is called for to snag one of the 14 tables at this cozy culinary gem. Once there, try their Kodiak scallops like the ones served over butternut squash puree, sherry gastrique, and carrot-parsnip salad. Marx Brothers also boasts one of the best wine cellars in the state and will be happy to help you nd the perfect sip for your scallops.

Or head over to Ginger Restaurant where seared diver scallops are served atop a basil-pine nut crusted three-cheese pasta, tomato brunoise, and nished with tru e oil and fresh basil. is is not your grandma’s mac and cheese.

Altura Bistro’s recent Kodiak Weathervane Scallop special featured forbidden rice, mint-pea puree, togarashi bacon, pickled onion, dashi tuile, and basil owers if you’re looking for a dish that looks as beautiful as it tastes.

And the always exceptional Kincaid Grill serves a French take on scallops in an upscale environment with their Kodiak Scallops Nicoise served with haricots verts, roasted cherry tomatoes, Castelvetrano olives, roasted garlic, mashed potatoes, and lemon butter nage.

OUT-OF-THE-ORDINARY OYSTERS

As my family will tell you, I love oysters. Every year, I dutifully bring my family to the Alaska State Fair. I like giant pumpkins and baby piglets as much as the next person, but secretly, I go for the oysters. When I arrive, I saddle up to the Pristine Products oyster booth and down a quick dozen of Prince William Sound’s nest while watching the pros shuck the next plateful. At the end of the day, a er my family has stu ed themselves full of funnel cake and onion blossoms, I’ve been biding my time. My farewell gesture to the fair is to slurp back another dozen oysters. ey’re that good.

If you aren’t lucky enough to be in town during the Alaska State Fair, you’ll just have to suck it up (so to speak) and get your x without the funnel-cake palate cleanser.

Many restaurants serve fresh-shucked local oysters with a traditional mignonette or cocktail sauce, including Fletcher’s (the more casual dining option in the Hotel Captain Cook), F Street Station, and Sullivan’s Steakhouse. For something more re ned, the Crow’s Nest o ers theirs with a melon sorbet and serrano chili, Haute Quarter Grill o ers a cold oyster dish served with a strawberry-ginger mignonette.

In midtown, Altura Bistro serves fresh oysters with cucumber caviar, yuzu mignonette, and ruby grapefruit while nearby, Kinley’s serves them cold or au gratin in roasted shallot cream sauce topped with basil and sauteed spinach. at said, the cold salt waters of Alaskan’s coast produce the most delicious oysters in the world — plump, sweet and briny — so a er dabbling with dips, toppings and sauces, do yourself a avor and end your meal with at least one oyster eaten au naturel. A little taste of the sea is the perfect dessert.

A raw oyster from Simpson Bay, near Cordova, at the Bubbly Mermaid Champagne and Oyster Bar

PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

Downtown features plenty of shopping too. Fourth and Fi h avenues are never short of tourist shops with reasonably priced T-shirts, hats, trinkets and more. More valuable Alaska mementos like fur, ivory, and Alaska Native art are plentiful too. e more discerning shopper will nd clothing and jewelry boutiques, art galleries, and dessert and wine shops. For a centralized experience, explore the Fi h Avenue Mall.

DOWNTOWN NIGHTLIFE

Anchorage’s nighttime pursuits range from sporty pubs to higher-end cocktail bars to no-frills Alaska dive bars. A hot ticket during Anchorage’s long-lit summer days is to score a seat some on a patio or deck and soak in the novelty of late-hour sunshine.

Start out at the corner of G Street and Sixth Avenue, across from the Performing Arts Center, where a nexus of bars includes Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse (610 W. Sixth Ave.). e menu covers the gamut of Alaska pub grub, like fried halibut and king crab nuggets with garlic aioli, and its expansive beer selection is top-tier. Next door to Humpy’s is Flattop Pizza + Pool (600 W. Sixth Ave.), featuring a laid-back, urban vibe, solid pizza and pool tables.

Across the street, Williwaw Social (601 F St.) contains multitudes. ere’s a large ground- oor space for dining courtesy of Alaska Burger Company. e space transforms when it’s show time, with a rotating roster of performances from both local and national artists. e second- oor speakeasy features cra cocktails and moody ambiance, with an arcade area nearby. Williwaw’s crowning gem is a roo op bar that opens on nice summer days and is unparalleled for its sun-soaked views of Anchorage’s Town Square.

For a fancier evening, several ne-dining restaurants downtown have similarly delicious cocktail creations and extensive wine selections.

Ginger (425 W. Fi h Ave.) serves Paci c Rim-in uenced cuisine amid a modern, warm interior and a chic bar. Crush (328 G St.) features wine ights from an impressive cellar presented by competent sta , alongside shareable small plates and seasonal entrees.

Haute Quarter Grill (525 W. Fourth Ave.) boasts upscale American cuisine, featuring Alaska seafood and home-grown produce whenever possible. is is a great spot on a warm summer night when the bar opens up its front-facing accordion walls and diners can enjoy patio seating.

For a more laid-back dive-bar experience, try Darwin’s eory (426 G St.) and Pioneer Bar (739 W. Fourth Ave). Both have been around for decades and share some commonalities: no food, personable and longstanding bartenders, and plenty of friendly and loyal regulars.

Mad Myrna’s (530 E. Fi h Ave.) is downtown’s lively and welcoming gay club, recently remodeled. With drag shows, cabaret performances, karaoke nights and dancing, Myrna’s is a true standout with a highenergy vibe and a long tradition of inclusive entertainment in the Last Frontier.

In your nightlife explorations, don’t forget Anchorage’s growing number of breweries. Downtown hosts 49th State Brewing Co. (717 W. ird Ave.), complete with a huge bar, massive menu, and an epic roo op deck with fantastic views of the inlet and distant mountains — even Denali on a clear day.

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