FREE ATHENS

STREET

PRESS

FREE ATHENS

SUMMER 2021

200

YEARS AFTER THE GREEK INDEPENDENCE 16 PHILHELLENES WORTH REMEMBERING

The… minutiae of everyday life: the details make the difference…

A space designed to unite art, nature, good coffee and delicious flavors in the center of Athens. Atmosphere that offers relaxation and tranquility, ideal for a break from the walk under the summer sun with cool drinks. The caption of Minu gives its mark: Plants / Objects / Cafe.

The neighborhood of Psirri One of the most characteristic neighborhoods of Athens around which you must wander! Traditional and picturesque, but at the same time, a multicultural neighborhood that covers all tastes. There, Minu found the corner that suits it so as to bring a different touch to the multiface city of Athens.

Design and Art You enter the Minu and the white color that prevails makes you find your balance. With an emphasis on natural materials, the space has been created with architectural lines that bring you closer to nature. Creativity and art are the two elements on which the decoration was based. Thus, works of art are often hosted in the specially designed gallery of the store.

Art prevails in everything. The store itself functions as an exhibition, since whatever you see, you can buy it. Furniture, utensils, plants are all carefully chosen and they can be yours.

Organic Drinks Drinks that support the logic of well being adorn the menu. Organic espresso makes the difference, while the wide variety of teas takes us on a natural journey between flavors, aromas and different cultures. Enjoy your free time at the comfortable Minu tables and chairs, just before shopping all kinds of art.

Nature in the city The wide variety of indoor and outdoor plants makes you think you are not in a city characterized by multiple buildings. The light enters from everywhere and additional holes have been opened in the roof, so that the light enters vertically. Climbing plants and hanging lights catch our eye and remind us of our connection to the natural environment. In addition, you can buy your favourite plants or get ideas for your own personal space.

Minu* 50, Sarri str., Psirri, T.: 0030 21 0323 2022 Fb: Minu / Ig: @minu.athens 230 m. / THISSIO ISAP LINE 1

*MINU: abbreviation of “minutiae”

GEORGE GORDON BYRON

08

SOPHIE DE MARBOIS-LEBRUN

10

THOMAS GORDON

12

LOUISE RIENCOURT

18

VICTOR HUGO PIETRO TARELLA JOHN JACOB MEYER

16 philhellenes

22 24

FRANK ABNEY HASTINGS

30

RICHARD CHURCH

32

JEAN-GABRIEL EYNARD

34

SAMUEL GRIDLEY HOWE

Content

20

MIRZIEWSKI ANTONIO FIGUEIRA D’ALMEIDA

40 42 44

ERNST MICHAEL MANGEL

52

EUGENE DELACROIX

54

HASAN AGAS KOURT ALIS

56

FEATURED PLACES IN ORDER IN WHICH THEY APPEAR IN “FREE ATHENS” p. 2 MINU | PLANTS - OBJECTS - CAFE p. 7 HERAKLEIDON MUSEUM p. 9 EPIGRAPHIC MUSEUM

KOTSANAS MUSEUM p. 11 ALEXANDER THE GREAT | CENTRE OF GREEK LANGUAGE AND CULTURE p. 13 THE BLACK DUCK GARDEN | ATHENS CITY MUSEUM BISTROT

TANINI AGAPI MOU | WINE BAR p. 15 BALDO THE SAUCY PASTA | FRESH PASTA p. 19 TREIS LALOUN | VEGAN RESTAURANT p. 21 MOZZART PIZZA | PIZZERIA MPOUFALOS | BURGER p. 23 PRIGKIPAS | STREET FOOD RESTAURANT

I VOLVI | GREEK RESTAURANT

PIATSA KALAMAKI | GRILL RESTAURANT p. 25 GLYKYS | COFFEE SHOP PLATEIA | GREEK CUISINE AND SPIRITS

DIA TAUTA | GREEK RESTAURANT p. 29 SEVENEIGHTEEN | ALL DAY BAR BARAYO | CAFE-COCKTAIL BAR MACARONI p. 31 TO AVGO TOU KOKKORA | GREEK RESTAURANT

O PIPIS | GREEK CUISINE

TO KAFENEIO | GREEK CUISINE p. 33 WINE O’CLOCK | WINE BAR PAIR | COFFEE BAR p. 35 KLIMATARIA | TAVERNA

ACHILLEAS - VERGINA | GREEK CUISINE p. 39 KOLOKOTRONI 9 | COCKTAIL BAR p. 41 ANDAMAN | THAI BAR RESTAURANT

WABI SABI | ASIAN FOOD & SUSHI p. 43 INTRIGA | CAFE - BAR FRAU | BAR CHARTREUSE | CAFΕTERIA-BAR

THE UNDERDOG | COFFEE SHOP p. 45 ROZALIA | GREEK TAVERN

MARTINIS KOUZINA | GREEK RESTAURANT p. 47 OVEROLL | CROISSANTERIE p. 51 KIVELI | MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT p. 53 LOT 51 | COFFEE BAR

VOLVER A LA SOMBRA | ALL DAY COFFEE BAR IPPOPOTAMOS | BAR p. 55 MIKRI VENETIA | GREEK CUISINE

ΟΙ ΝOSTIMIES TIS MAIRIS | GREEK CUISINE p. 57 TAPFIELD | BEER BAR

MONSIEUR BARBU | FOOD & SPIRITS DIALOGOS | GREEK FOOD p. 59 DJANGO GELATO | GELATO ROLOI | CAFE-RESTAURANT

THE UPSIDE DOWN | CAFE-BAR AND PASTRY p. 63 KOSMOIATRIKI | MEDICAL CENTER p. 65 ANÄNA | CAFE | VEGGIE & VEGAN RESTAURANT KEENKIES | RESTAURANT p. 67 VERGETIS | CLOTHING SEPTEMBER | CLOTHING

EL GRECO | SHOES STORE

THE OPTICIANS | VIEW THE WORLD THROUGH DIFFERENT EYES p. 69 TO KOMPOLOI TOU PSIRRI | HANDMADE SOUVENIRS

AMARILLO SUAVE | BOOKSTORE

LIKE YESTERDAY’S | VINTAGE SHOP

MIMIS TAKIS | JEWELLERY SHOP p. 71 BANANA | ATHENS NIGHT CLUB

GRANNY’S MEATBALLS | FAST FOOD RESTAURANT

AΡΒΑROPIZA | ALL DAY COFFEE COCKTAIL BAR p. 73 THAI ZAB | THAI RESTAURANT p. 75 ETNICO | ETHNIC STREET FOOD

SERIAL GRILLERS | BURGERS

MADAI SUSHI | BAR SUSHI RESTAURANT p. 78 NANCY’S SWEETHOME p. 80 SALUTE BISTRO | BAR

THIS SUMMER MAKE YOUR “REVOLUTION” IN GREECE! An anniversary issue, not only because we celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Greek Revolution, but also because this summer “Free Athens” comes back to the city centre. Our purpose is to meet the urban explorers, who came from far away to merge with the athenian vibes.

We didn’t intend to publish another conventional city guide, but we aim to share with you the soul and the identity of the city we love. You’re holding in your hands a double guide: a historic induction to the philhellenic movement of the 19th century and a touristic manual of Athens of the 21st century. Βecause when the old meets the new, only miracles can happen!

On the following pages you will find the names of 16 Philhellenes and their story to the glory, as well as some historical events which connect the independence of the modern greek state with the action of its international “allies”.

Born of the seed planted by the American and French Revolutions of the 18th century, and the notions of liberalism and nationalism they bequeathed to the 19th century, the Greek Revolution made an assertive entry into both these new ideological fields of the modern world. On the trail of the revolution, national ideas become global and vice versa.

The 200th anniversary of the 1821 Revolution provides fertile ground for alternative narratives of our everyday life and seems more relevant than ever, after all the challenges the whole world faced.

Suggestions for food, drinks and excursions could not be missing from this issue. So, we welcome the greek summer and we invite you to spread your positive vibes in every place you visit!

Sofia Argyri

FREE ATHENS

19 Thiras St. - Athens - 11257 t. +30 210 82 29 040 Link https://ipolizei.gr/category/free-athens/ Mails: info@ipolizei.gr freeathens21@gmail.com Editing: Sofia Argyri Graphics: Iro Pitsikali

EDITORIAL

LOGOTYPO PUBLICATIONS

Editor

DISCOVER

Ancient Greek Technology within walking distance from the Acropolis

MU SE UM B

APO

STO LO

H

ER

AK

LE

ID O

N

ST R

ANCIENT AGORA

A

HERAKLEIDON MUSEUM

UP AVL O

US TR

DIONISIOU AREOPAGITOU STR

Discover inventions you didn’t know about. War and naval equipment, public works and buildings,

astronomy, measuring of time and space, automata, technology in sports and theater.

For guided tours and/or family activities call as to arrange an

appointment at 0030 210 3461981 or info@herakleidon.org

We care: Temperature measurement of all visitors entering the museum, mandatory wearing of face mask, intensified cleaning and disinfection of all spaces, disinfectant dispensers around the museum, no more than 8 visitors in each building at the same time, contactless payment

ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

BUILDING A 16 HERAKLEIDON STR. Thissio, 118 51, Athens t: +30 210 34 61 981, f: +30 210 34 58 225 e: info@herakleidon-art.gr BUILDING B 37 APOSTOLOU PAVLOU STR. Thissio, 118 51, Athens t: +30 211 012 6486

e: museum@herakleidon-art.gr

www.herakleidon.org

Member of the House of Lords

support from representatives of the movement for Greek Independence. After arriving in Missolonghi, Byron joined forces with Alexandros Mavrokordatos, a Greek politician with military power. He moved to a two-floor house and was forced to spend much of his time dealing with unruly Souliotes who demanded that Byron pay them the back-pay owed to them by the Greek government. To help raise money for the revolution, Byron sold his estate in England. Then, he found himself besieged by various people, both Greek and foreign, who tried to persuade him to open up his pocketbook to support them. Meanwhile, the leadership of the Greek cause in the Roumeli region was divided into two rival leaders. Byron used his prestige to persuade the two rival leaders to come together to focus on defeating the Ottomans. At the same time, other leaders of the Greek, like Petrobey Mavromichalis and Theodoros Kolokotronis wrote letters to Byron telling him to disregard all of the Roumeliot leaders and to come to their respective areas in the Peloponnese. This drove Byron to distraction; he complained that Greeks were hopelessly disunited and spent more time feuding with each other than trying to win independence.

1788 - 1824

Outside of the National Garden, in the centre of Athens, there is a statue made by the French sculptors HenriMichel Chapu and Alexandre Falguière, depicting Greece in the form of a woman crowning Byron. Since 2008, the anniversary of Byron’s death, 19 April, has been honoured in Greece as “Byron Day”.

Byron was living in Genoa when, in 1823, he accepted the invitation for

Poet, Politician

“I SHOULD NOT LIKE TO GIVE THE GREEKS BUT A HALF HELPING HAND”

George Gordon Byron, known simply as Lord Byron, was an English peer, who was a poet and politician. He was one of the leading figures of the Romantic movement and is regarded as one of the greatest English poets.

Occupation

▼ ▼ ▼

GEORGE GORDON BYRON

pg 9

INSCRIPTIONS OF ANCIENT GREECE

EPIGRAPHIC MUSEUM Epigraphic Museum of Athens houses the largest collection of ancient inscriptions, the primary historical sources that provide valuable information for all aspects of public and private life of antiquity. Most of the inscriptions derive from Attica, the birth place of democracy, but also from other areas of the ancient Greek world.

Dating from the 8th cent. B.C. until Byzantine, Post Byzantine and later times, the 14078 inscriptions on stone are written mainly in ancient Greek language.

A smaller number of inscriptions are written in Latin as well as in other languages (Phoenician, Hebrew and Ottoman). / 1 Tositsa St. - Athens / t: +30 210 82 32 950 / e-mail: ema@culture.gr / https://epigraphicmuseum.gr / fb: Epigraphical Museum Athens 850 m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1

ANCIENT GREEK TECHNOLOGY

KOTSANAS MUSEUM Are you ready for a journey to cutting edge technology of Ancient Greece?

Permanent collection: “Ancient Greece – The Origins of Technologies” Interactive guided tours | Experimental workshops on different topics | Handmade replicas of the exhibits at the Museum’s shop.

Kotsanas Museum is nominated for the “European Museum Award 2019”.

Working hours: Monday-Sunday 10:0018:00 / 6 Pindarou Str. & Academias - Kolonaki / t: +30 211 41 10 044 / http://kotsanasmuseum.com / fb: @KotsanasMuseumOfAncientGreekTechnology / insta: @kotsanasmuseum 450 m / SINTAGMA METRO LINE 2, 3

FREE ATHENS

Today an Athens Metro station, built on her original lands, is named Doukissis Plakentias station.

Duchess of Plaisance

SOPHIE DE MARBOIS-LEBRUN

Occupation

The AmericanFrench philhellene, Sophie de MarboisLebrun (1785-1854), was better known as the Duchess of Plaisance. She supported the military needs of the Greek national struggle and she continued her social contribution in the first years of the Greek state, by taking care of the education of daughters of revolution fighters.

Noblewoman

▼ ▼ ▼

1785-1854

A DUCHESS WITH AN ECCENTRIC PERSONALITY Sophie de Marbois-Lebrun was a French noblewoman, known as an important figure in Greek high society the first decades after the Greek Independence. She was born in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, where her father, François Barbé-Marbois, was serving as French Consul-General in the United States. Upon the outbreak of the Greek War of Independence, the Duchess and her daughter generously supported the Greek cause and in 1830, they moved to Nafplion, the capital of Greece at that time. She became an ardent financial supporter of public education.

She was reacquainted with the Greek leader Ioannis Kapodistrias, whom she had met in Paris in 1826. Eventually, she became an opponent of him, and after a 17-month stay, she left for Italy. When Kapodistrias was assassinated by Konstantinos Mavromichalis and his nephew Georgios Mavromichalis, she spoke out against the way Kapodistrias had run the Greek government. In 1834, the Duchess returned to Greece and settled in the new greek capital, Athens. She purchased large amounts of agricultural land chiefly near Mt. Penteli, but all around Athens. She engaged the Greek architect Stamatios Kleanthis to design a palace for her on the slopes of Mt. Penteli.

LEARN GREEK WHILE IN ATHENS Enhance your Greek experience You may combine vacation and learning In our courses you may

Here’s your first lesson with the basic Greetings:

Do not hesitate, Greek is easy!

Don’t forget that you already know Greek through thousand of Greek origin words in your language, like:

Γεια (γia) = Hello

live the total Greek Experience. You may combine learning Greek, along with enjoying guided Museums Visits, Traditional Greek Dinners, Greek Films Screenings

Αντίο (andio) = Goodbye

Aerostat & Aeroplane

and Greek Cultural Pres-

Τα λέμε αύριο (ta leme

Philosophy & Philology

entations. Our enthusi-

avrio) = See you tomorrow

Geometry & Geography

astic, multilingual & well

Telephone & Telegram

qualified staff will make

Epidemy & Epidemic

sure your stay will be an

If you do not have a lot of time: our 5-Hour Crash Course (Read – Write – Basic Phrases) is what you need. Our innovative method is based on words that you already know.

experience to remember.

Want more? We provide you for free a full event guide for the Weekends!

WHERE LEARNING MEETS FUN In the heart of Athens, at a very nice neoclassical building, 101 years old, among adult students from all over the world you may both learn Greek and get introduced into Greek culture.

Besides you will learn Greek using the most effective teaching methods based on our experience -since 1972- and the use of high quality educational material, which we have developed in cooperation with European Universities and Schools and the support of E.U. We are 300m away from Victoria metro station and very near a lot of Bus Lines.

We are open from 09.00 to 20.00 from Monday to Friday. Come by to learn more about our programs, or contact us via our website!

/ 25 Mavrommataion str. – Athens 10434 / t: +30 210 82 17 710 / http://alexander-edu.org/en/ / mail: alexander@bhc.gr / fb: greekschoolalexander / insta: greekschoolalexander

Gordon built his house in Argos in 1829. A few years later, the neighbourhood was named in his honour “Gordonos district”. The Gordon’s house was declared a listed building and in 1987 it was purchased by the French Archaeological School of Athens and restored to be used as a library.

Colonel

1788-1841

Occupation

Lieutenant general

THOMAS GORDON ▼ ▼ ▼ A DISAPPOINTED LIEUTENANT GENERAL Gordon took part in the fall of Tripolitsa in September, 1821 but he strongly protested against the massacre that Greek committed. As he was ignored, he retired from the military service. In November 1821 he moved to Zakynthos and from there he returned to Scotland. In November 1822, the provisional Greek government sent a letter asking him to return. He refused, but he joined the Greek committee in London and contributed money and military supplies. He returned to Greece in 1828. From 1828 to 1831, he carried out excavations at the Temple of Hera, near Argos. Gordon took part in the chain of events that led to the Although Gordon’s activity in the Greek Revolution was short, he was the first English philhellene to join the Greek forces. He chartered and equipped at his own expense a ship in Marseilles, with which he transported fighters to Greece.

assassination of Greece’s first governor, Ioannis Kapodistrias. Immediately after these events, Gordon returned to Scotland, where he finished his book “History of the Greek Revolution” in 1833. After the establishment of the monarchy in Greece, Gordon came to Greece again in 1833 and joined the Greek army. He was later appointed president of the Military Court. Due to his poor health, he resigned in February 1839 and returned to Scotland. A brief visit to Greece took place in 1840.

pg 13

ATHENS CITY MUSEUM BISTROT

THE BLACK DUCK GARDEN Black Duck isn’t a typical bistrot. The history of this place goes back to the time of Otto’s reign. Quality food, coffee and signature cocktails: all these in a wellhidden, full of green trees and flowers garden. The smell of the jasmine in combination with the taste of the food will awaken your senses. Choose the “duck” for brunch, wine and fine dining!

/ 5-7 Ioanou Paparigopoulou St. - Athens / t: +30 210 32 52 396 / www.blackduck.gr / fb: BlackDuckGarden / Insta: black_duck_athens

290 m / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2

WINE BAR

TANINI AGAPI MOU Tanini Agapi Mou (Tannin My Love) is the home of the greek vineyard! Find out the best vinifications Greece has to offer in a list of more than 100 labels where organic, biodynamic and natural wine stars. Accompany your wine with traditional greek cheeses and cold cuts from independent producers located in the islands and the mainland but also with side dishes created by the chef Maria Kofitsa.

All labels are served by the glass, by the bottle and for take away in our wine store. / 91 Ippokratous & Methonis St.- Athens / t: +30 211 11 50 145 / www.taniniagapimou.gr / fb: tanini agapi mou / Insta: tanini_agapi_mou 800 m / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2

FREE ATHENS

1798-1863

Artist

Occupation

` EUGENE DELACROIX

▼ ▼ ▼ THE MASSACRE AT CHIOS It is the second major oil painting by the French artist. It is more than four meters tall and shows some of the horror of the wartime destruction on the Island of Chios. The painting hangs at the Louvre Museum in Paris.

pg 15

FREE ATHENS

FRESH PASTA

BALDO THE SAUCY PASTA Baldo The Saucy Pasta is named after the famous Italian gangster’s nickname Amato Baldassarre, who was a keen fan of the authentic Italian pasta. Pop atmosphere, colours, lights and smiley hearts describe a place full of delicious dishes and generous portions. Pasta are made daily of high-quality italian and greek raw materials and compose an ode to the italian taste tradition. Four different kinds of pasta and eleven combinations to choose for your pizza base, give you numerous options to match your personal preferences. If it’s hard for you to choose, we suggest the tasty bomb “ChickenGorgonzola” or the lighter and full of protein “Salmon-Lime Maccheroni”. Your sensations will be definitely triggered by the “Truffle Mushrooms” and the “Beef Stifado”. You can get your order delivered in your place or even better visit the restaurant for a complete experience of your senses!

/ 39 Veikou St. - Athens / t: +30 210 92 41 010 / www.baldopasta.com / fb: Baldo • The Saucy Pasta

280 m / SYGROU-FIX METRO LINE 2

The French newspaper “Journal des debats” was published between 1789 and 1944. In this issue of August 24, 1821, it reports: “The Russian ambassador to Constantinople called on the Ottoman authorities to stop the killing of innocent Greeks”.

The publisher of this multilingual newspaper, translated in French, Italian, English and German, was Pietro Gamba, Lord Byron’s secretary.

“Telegrafo Greco” was published in Missolonghi and it was used as a tool of the Philhellenes and the democrats.

EUROPEAN NEWSPAPERS TAKE PART IN THE REVOLUTION The European newspapers were the first to know about the events that were taking place in Greece and undertook to spread the facts. Their circulation in european cafés and reading rooms helped the public to be informed and functioned as a mass call to the revolution of the oppressed people. These newspapers didn’t have real correspondents in the places of the military operations. Regarding the events in Greece, the complicated routes and the long transmission time of the news were added to the lack of reliability of the insufficient news sources. Inaccuracies and false news were favored, usually in order to raise the morale of the rebellious people, holding also the fort to be a means of approval of the Greek Revolution.

English, French, Italian and German were the languages which put revolutionary ideas across Europe. Of course, not all the newspapers were friendly adjacent to the Greek Revolution, serving the interests of their publishers accordingly.

The German newspaper “Schwabischer Merkur”, founded in 1785, refers in its issue of February 19, 1824, to the siege of Missolonghi, where: “20.000 Turks couldn’t defeat 500 Greeks”.

“Courrier de l’Orient” was published in Nafplio in 1829 and was essentially a response to the Frenchlanguage Istanbul newspaper “Le Courrier de l´Orient”.

The ‘’Morning Post’’ was an English conservative daily newspaper, published in London from 1772 to 1937.

It was opposed to the Greek Revolution, as it supported the aristocracy.

Countess

LOUISE RIENCOURT

She loved Greece and although she got married to Earl Riencourt in France, she moved to Athens with her two kids. In her huge living room, dance parties were organised and kings, princes and aristocrats of Athens were invited. She constantly offered money for various reasons, such as for the victims of the Macedonian Struggle, for the asylum of the incurable patients and for the people of Serres who were in need because of the bulgarian atrocities. She organized charity dances, she set up an embroidery factory for girls in need and she gave prizes to excellent students. Her love for Greece was so great that she made her son a Greek soldier and he took part in the Balkan wars as a commissioned officer. She died on February 27, 1941 in old age in Athens.

1846-1941

There is an avenue named after her in Ampelokipoi, Athens.

Louise Riencourt was born in Saint Didier of France on January 19, 1846.

Philanthropist

A FRENCH WOMAN WITH A GREEK HEART

Occupation

▼ ▼ ▼

Louise Riencourt ( 1846-1941) was a French philanthropist. She admired the greek culture and she visited Athens to learn about it. After returning to France, her philhellenic feelings led her back to Greece where she lived until her death.

pg 19

FREE ATHENS

VEGAN RESTAURANT

TREIS LALOUN “Treis Laloun” is a restaurant with purely vegan cuisine and is located in the center of Athens, in Gazi, just a minute from the Kerameikos metro station.

The combination of vintage and modern aesthetics in the interior will amaze you.

Start your day here with coffee, rich breakfast, açai bowls, scrambled tofu, refreshing and nutritious smoothies and milkshakes. For your meal you can choose between handmade seitan with fresh mushrooms and rise, vegan shrimps with palm and sweet potato puree, soutzoukakia from Smyrna, hearty burgers and crepes, large pancakes, are just a few of the wide variety of our products that you can taste in the comfort and our friendly outdoor space. Do not forget to try the rich variety of our ice creams! We are waiting for you!

/ Daily 08:30-01:00 / 23 Persephonis St. - Gazi / t: +30 211 41 82 251 / www.3-laloun.gr / fb: 3lalounk2xoreuoun / insta: treislaloun

100 m / KERAMEIKOS METRO LINE 3

“The Miserables” was written for all nations. I do not know if it will be read by everyone, but I wrote it for everyone.

Representative of French Romanticism

Poet, novelist, and dramatist, Victor Hugo is considered the most important of the French Romantic writers. Though regarded in France as one of its greatest poets, he is better known abroad for his novels such as NotreDame de Paris and Les Miserables.

VICTOR HUGO

Writer

Occupation

1802-1885 ▼ ▼ ▼ “THE WORLD IS THE EXPANDING GREECE AND GREECE IS THE SHRINKING WORLD” Victor Hugo’s interest in liberated Greece was particularly evident in relation to the Cretan question. During the period of the Cretan Revolution (1866 - 1869) he published three letters in favor of the Cretans in the European press in December 1866, February 1867 and February 1869, despite the general negative climate for Greek issues of the time.

Apart from supporting the Cretans, he also showed interest in the Parthenon marbles, accusing Elgin of this act, based on his perception that the cultural heritage of one people should not become the property of another. Hugo knew well the history of ancient Greece and was inspired by the Revolutionary Struggle of 1821 and the passion of Lord Byron shortly before the founding of the Greek state. He, in turn, influenced the work of many Greek writers. His death, finally, had a great impact on Greece and almost the entire Greek press covered the fact as the loss of a distinguished Greek writer. In fact, ceremonies, similar to those that took place in France, were held in Greece.

pg 21

PIZZERIA

MOZZART PIZZA The art of Italian pizza can be found in this place: a dough that matures for 36 hours at least, pizzas baked at 400 degrees Celsius for 1.5 minute and all of these made of high quality materials. In Mozzart, you can order either a whole pizza or individual pieces, especially for those who want to try more than one pizza recipe. / 1 Chrisospiliotissis St.- Athens / t: +30 210 32 14 183 / fb: Mozzart Pizza

400 m/ PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2

BURGER

MPOUFALOS Classic American burgers and of course burgers with a greek twist will satisfy your appetite. Salads and starters with a note of street food for a filling brunch to start your day. The pop-art decoration with graffitis on the walls gives a great ambiance to visit this place for a cocktail with the signature of Mpouffalos.

Delivery and take-away options are also available!

/ 13 Eptanisou St. - Kipseli / t: +30 210 82 38 082 / fb: mpoufalos / insta: mpoufalos

900 m / VICTORIA ISAP LINE 1

FREE ATHENS

Hero of the battle of Peta

Pietro Tarella was one of the first organizers of a regular army in Greece and a hero of the battle of Peta, which took place on July 4, 1822 in Peta village, 5km out of Arta.

PIETRO TARELLA ▼ ▼ ▼

of Italy, he was a member of Napoleon’s Great Army during the Napoleonic Wars. He took part in the Battle of Waterloo on June 18, 1815 but after the french defeat and the resignation of Napoleon from the french throne on June 22, 1815, Tarella returned to Turin, where he joined the

Officer

Pietro Tarella was born in Turin. As an officer in the army of the Kingdom

Occupation

A FIGHTER UNTIL THE LAST MINUTE

1781 – 1822

liberal movements of his country. With the beginning of the Greek Revolution of 1821, Tarella was one of the first Philhellenes to decide to go to Greece and offer his services. He left Trieste and arrived in Greece (in Hydra) on June 7, 1821, with the same ship that carried Dimitrios Joseph Baleste and the important Italian Philhellene Dania. After the battle of Tripolitsa, Tarella returned to Italy, with the aim of introducing more of his compatriots to the Philhellenic movement, and to procure ammunition for the Greeks fighters and the Philhellenes. After completing his mission in Italy, Tarella returned to Greece on January 3, 1822.

There he undertook the Monumetask of forming the Infantry of the first Regular Army in Greece. The battle of Peta in Arta was unfortunately his last battle.

Greece pays tribute to Pietro Tarella and his brave comrades, who fought to the end for the Freedom of Greece, with the monument in Peta and is eternally grateful for their sacrifice.

Ypsilantis, Panagiotis Anagnostopoulos, the heroic French Philhellene

pg 23

STREET FOOD RESTAURANT

GREEK RESTAURANT

“Prigkipas’’ opened its doors in a new space next to Alimos metro station. Apart from greek souvlaki, taste special meats like black pig or buffalo, even fish wrapped in pitta. Don’t miss to try its tsipouro production. Visit it for lunch after a long day at the beach or for dinner.

Delicious souvlaki made with virgin, simple and handmade ingredients. Tomatoes, onions and paprika sauce made by fresh peppers of Northern Greece, spicy chili flakes -for the brave ones- accompany the minced pork, which is bought with care by the neighboring butcher shop. All these are wrapped in fresh pita bread. Enjoy!

PRIGKIPAS

/ 560 Vouliagmenis Ave. - Alimos / t: +30 211 18 24 242 / www.prigkipas.gr

I VOLVI

/ 23 Charilaou Trikoupi St. - Athens / t: +30 211 40 50 070 / fb: Prigkipas.Exarcheia

30 m / ALIMOS

500 m / PANEPISTIMIO

500 m / OMONIA

METRO LINE 2

METRO LINE 2

ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 2

GRILL RESTAURANT

PIATSA KALAMAKI An awarded for its taste grill restaurant is located in the pedestrian area of Fokionos Negri. The secret of all the delicacies you can find in its varied menu is the quality of raw materials. Tip: Except for the Greek souvlaki, try definitely the Thracian bread, as it’s difficult to find it somewhere else.

And don’t forget: All hygiene rules are followed!

/ 17 Fokionos Negri St. - Kipseli / t: +30 210 86 12 195 / www.piatsakalamaki.gr / fb: Piatsakalamaki.kypseli

1.000 m / VICTORIA ISAP LINE 1

FREE ATHENS

/ 24 Evripidou St. - Athens / t: +30 211 11 80 587 / fb: souvlakiavolvi / insta: volvi_souvlakia

The first journalist in Greece

A DOCTOR FOR ALL THE WOUNDED IN MISSOLONGHI John Jacob Meyer, born in Zurich in 1798, was an upper-middle-class pharmacist with a deep interest in the movement for Greek Independence in 1821. Liberal, active and adventurous as a character, Meyer presented himself as a physician and surgeon to the Philhellenes’ Committee of Bern

Doctor, Publisher

▼ ▼ ▼

JOHN JACOB MEYER 1798-1826

Occupation

The Swiss philhellene, John Jacob Meyer (December 30, 1798 - April 4, 1826), was a great patriot of Greece and was internationally recognised as the pioneer of Greek journalism and publisher of the newspaper “Greek Chronicles”, the first printed newspaper of the greek freedom movement against the Ottoman Empire, which was published in rebellious Missolonghi

the Ottoman Empire in order to help with the medical care of the Greek fighters. Ηe joined the greek freedom movement against the Ottomans after moving to Missolonghi in 1822. After he was baptized an Orthodox Christian, he got married to Altana Inglezou and they had two children.

His full integration into the Greek society was highly appreciated by the notables of Missolonghi, so he quickly became one of the reputable citizens of the city. He helped the greek rebels by offering medical care in a small hospital, which he set up with a German doctor. He also contributed to the spread of the ideas of the Revolution by publishing the newspaper ‘’Greek Chronicles’’. In this newspaper, announcements of the Greek Administration, internal and external news and translated extracts about the Greek Revolution from European and American newspapers were published. Meyer was killed along with his wife and children, as well as, their maidservant Sanna, amongst the mass of Greeks who, at 2 o’clock in the night, started the Exodus and the heroic sacrifice for freedom.

Meyer used his newspaper in order to express his political ideas about democracy, monarchy, freedom and he published poetry as well. Although he didn’t like him very much, Meyer published “Greek Chronicles” with the help of Lord Byron. Today the archive of this newspaper is found at the Library of the Greek Parliament.

and came to Greece in the first months of the Greek Revolution against

pg 25

COFFEE SHOP

GREEK CUISINE AND SPIRITS

The warm and friendly vibes of the traditional coffee shop ‘’Glykys” will make you feel like home. Located in a picturesque, quiet street in the heart of Plaka, ‘’Glykys” offers great coffee, homemade sweets and greek ouzo accompanied by homemade meze.

Plateia, which means square, is located literally on a beautiful square named Amalia Merkouri. Here, all dishes are made with seasonal materials and offered at reasonable prices. Enjoy the greek summer nights with your friends eating fresh fish and drinking the local drink “tsipouro”, while sitting outdoors.

GLYKYS

450 m / ACROPOLI METRO LINE 2

GREEK RESTAURANT

DIA TAUTA In “Dia Tauta”, the special greek tastes meet the warm greek atmosphere. You’ll fall in love with the delicious greek plates while your gaze will get lost in the view of Acropolis rock. This old-fashioned restaurant, decorated with stones and wood, matches perfectly with the vibes of the historical place of Monastiraki. High quality wine accompanies your traditional meal, of course!

Live music on the weekends. / 37 Adrianou St. - Monastiraki / t: +30 210 32 12 347 / www.diatauta.com / fb: DiaTauta.Resto / Insta: diatautaresto

150 m / MONASTIRAKI ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 3

FREE ATHENS

PLATEIA

/ 2 Geronta St. - Plaka / t: 210 32 23 925 / www.glykys.gr

371 m / PETRALONA METRO LINE 1

/ 3 Deinoharous St. - Petralοna - Athens / t: +30 210 34 20 705 / www.oinomagireio-platia.gr / fb: Οινομαγειρειο η πλατεια

Α TRIBUTE TO ALL PHILHELLENES

BY THE GREEK STATE In 1823, Nafplio was designated as the first capital of the newly formed Greek state. Here, the first greek government was sworn in and the first governor, Ioannis Kapodistrias, was assassinated.

The presence of the Philhellenes couldn’t be missing from this place. The Philhellenes square was named after the French Philhellenes who fought and were sacrificed for the liberation of Greece from Turks during the Greek Revolution.

The monument of the Philhellenes fighters, erected in 1903, dominates on the square. This monument was designed in Paris but it was built in Athens, in Ioannis Haldou’s marble workshop. It has the form of a gray marble votive column and on the one side, there is a carving of two figures on white marble, the Greek goddess Athena and the French Republic, which represent Greece and France.

On the other side of the gray marble there is a votive inscription that mentions the great French Philhellenes, such as the generals Nicolas Joseph Maison and Charles Nicolas Fabvier, the naval chief officer Henri de Rigny and all the sailors and soldiers of France who fought for the Greek Independence.

A bust of the heroine of the Greek Revolution, Manto Mavrogenous, who lived in Nafplio from 1824 to 1831, has been placed recently in the north-western part of the square.

Except for Philhellenes square in Nafplio, there is a street in the centre of Athens, the second historical capital of the Greek state since 1834, dedicated to the Philhellenes.

This is one of the most important main streets of Athens, which was formed in 1860, by the city authorities in order to honor all those foreigners who supported the Greek nation’s Revolution against the turkish occupation. Important people of letters, such as Emmanouil Roidis and Jeanne Moreau, preferred the Philhellenes street for their residence, while the Greek naval fighter of 1821, Konstantinos Kanaris settled there for a while, in June 1822, before moving permanently in the neighbourhood of Kypseli.

The Greek poet, Andreas Empirikos, praises in his emblematic poem “In the Philhellenes Street” the glory of all those who transformed their fear of death into lust for freedom and independence, giving answers to questions, such as: -What was this force that pushed them to such sacrifices?

-Why does Greek civilization stand out?

-Why does it have such an impact on people?

Every time we cross this street in the city center, we recall all these thousands of Philhellenes who were mobilized in Europe and the USA, but also in Greece, while many of them even sacrificed their lives during the Greek War of Independence.

1800-1856

Painter

Occupation

LUDOVICO LIPPARINI

▼ ▼ ▼ THE OATH OF LORD BYRON IN FRONT OF MARKOS BOTSARI’S TOMB (1850) Ludovico Liparini was another 19th century artist inspired by the Greek Revolution. The Italian painterwas influenced from an early age by the four-volume “History of the Renaissance of Greece” by the French philhellene François Pouqueville. Thus, during the Greek Revolution, he painted a series of paintings with Greek themes. A typical example is this painting, where he depicted the moment when Lord Byron visited the tomb of the chief and took an oath to fight to the death for the liberation of Greece.

pg 29

ALL DAY BAR

CAFE-COCKTAIL BAR

Don’t miss to visit the Seveneighteen café next to Stavros Niarchos Foundation! Take a break in its special yard and enjoy your coffee accompanying your brunch. Continue your meal picking your favourite lunch among delicious choices: pasta, pizza and sandwiches. Otherwise, join Seveneighteen at sunset for an aperitif.

After a long visit at Stavros Niarchos Foundation, Barayo will satisfy your hunger with its large meals. Open by the morning until late at night, you have plenty of options: burgers, pizza and a variety of beers to quench your thirst. Evening tip: Relax on its terrace with a cocktail!

SEVENEIGHTEEN

450 m / BUS STOP PENTELIS BUS A2 FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE

/ 18 A Pentelis - Palaio Faliro / t: +30 211 01 39 199 / fb: seveneighteen - ALL DAY MOOD BAR

FREE ATHENS

BARAYO

650 m / BUS STOP INTERAMERICAN BUS A2 FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE

/ 298 Dimosthenous & 44 Euripidou St. - Kallithea, Athens / t: +30 210 94 03 926 / fb: Barayo / insta: barayobar

/ 14 Kolokotroni St. - Athens / t: +30 210 75 21 111 / fb: macaronikolonaki / insta: macaroni_athens

Officer

▼ ▼ ▼ THE LEADER OF THE MEDITERRANEAN Frank Abney Hastings was born on February 14, 1794 in Leicestershire and died on June 1, 1828 in Zacynthus of Ionian Islands in Greece.

Born to a noble British family, he served in the Royal Navy. In 1819 he was discharged from the Royal Navy, and a few years later traveled to Greece to aid the Greeks in their struggle for independence. To remedy the shortcomings of the outmoded Greek navy, he obtained the financial backing of Lord Byron and the London Greek Committee to buy six steam-powered warships in 1824; but only one was completed, which was the fastest and the most modern ship in the Mediterranean at that time. Hastings sank seven Turkish ships in the Bay of Salona, off the Gulf of Corinth, an act that forced the Egyptian-Turkish fleet to break through the allied naval blockade resulting in Egypt’s withdrawal from the war. Hastings’ operations in the islands and along the coastline of the Greek mainland enabled the Greeks to expand their territory and gain important strategic points. On 25 May 1828 he was wounded in an attempt to reclaim Missolonghi, and he died a few days later from his injuries in Zakynthos.

Frank Abney Hastings was a British naval officer who fought in the War of Greek Independence and was the first commander to use a ship with auxiliary steam power in naval action.

Hastings was laid to rest beneath the arsenal of Poros, which is today a Hellenic Naval Academy, and his heart is preserved in the Anglican Church in Athens. Multiple monuments in Greece have been built in his honor and several streets have been named after him.

1794-1828

Occupation

Naval Officer

FRANK ABNEY HASTINGS

pg 31

FREE ATHENS

GREEK RESTAURANT

TO AVGO TOU KOKKORA “To Avgo tou Kokkora”, which means the egg of the rooster, was born in 1982 in one of the most famous neighbourhoods of Athens. Unique dishes accompanied with great drinks compose a traditional greek meal. Either you visit it for lunch or for dinner, this old-fashioned restaurant, decorated with portraits of famous Greeks, will travel you to a historical and tasteful athenian past.

/ 25 Millerou & Leonidou St. - Metaxourgio - Athens / t: +30 217 70 50 103 / www.toavgotoukokkora.gr / fb: toaugotoukokkora / insta: to_avgo_tou_kokkora

564 m / METAXOURGIO METRO LINE 2

GREEK CUISINE

GREEK CUISINE

An authentic greek café with traditional character is located in the heart of Athens. Sophia, the owner, is faithful to small greek producers, that’s why she uses in her dishes only high-quality local ingredients produced in the greek countryside. Finest wine is added to complete an unforgettable experience.

“To Kafeneio” is a traditional place, where tourists mix with locals and the revelry begins. Share with your bunch meatballs with sauce and the meze variety of pork, beef and lamb meat.

Fill your glasses with high quality house wine and homemade raki. Don’t forget to make a reservation before visiting it!

O PIPIS

650 m / METAXOURGIO METRO LINE 2

TO KAFENEIO

/ 86 Megalou Alexandrou St. - Athens / t: 697 66 15 881 / fb: pipiskerameikos

459 m / ACROPOLI METRO LINE 2

/ 1 Epicharmou St. - Plaka / t: +30 210 32 46 916 / www.tokafeneio.gr / fb: tokafeneion

He visited Greece for the first time as a 16-year-old ensign in 1800 and wrote home: ‘The Greeks, who are slaves to the Turks and are Christians, are ... a brave, honest, open generous people, continually making us presents of fruit’

Commander of the Greek forces

MORE GREEK THAN THE GREEKS Sir Richard Church was an Irish military officer in the British Army and commander of the Greek forces during the last stages of the Greek War of Independence after 1827. After Greek independence, he became a general in the Hellenic Army and a member of the Greek Senate. The rising of the Greeks against the Turks, which began at this time, had his

1784-1873

Occupation

▼ ▼ ▼

Military officer

RICHARD CHURCH

full sympathy from the first. In 1827 he took the honorable but unfortuAt that point of anarchy and indiscipline to which they had now fallen, the Greeks could no longer form an efficient army, and could look for salvation only to foreign intervention. Sir Richard Church, who landed in March, was sworn commander in chief on 15 April 1827. But he could not secure loyal co-operation or obedience. The rout of his army in an attempt to relieve the acropolis of Athens, then besieged by the Ottomans, proved that it was incapable of conducting regular operations.

The acropolis capitulated, and Sir Richard turned to partisan warfare in western Greece. After the Battle of Navarino, and during the Capodistrias period, he was placed commander-in-chief of the Greek regular forces in Central Greece, together with Demetrios Ypsilantis. He lived for the rest of his life in Greece.

He died after an illness and he was buried at the First Cemetery of Athens at public expense on 27 March 1873.

The funeral monument is at the First Cemetery of Athens, opposite the Church of St. Lazarus, and it has an inscription in English on the front and Greek on the back.

nate step of accepting the commandership-in-chief of the Greek army.

pg 33

WINE BAR

WINE O’CLOCK Under the shadow of Acropolis, you’ll find Wine O’Clock, where you can taste the finest Greek wines from indigenous grape varieties! With over 200 labels of Greek wines on the regular Wine List, you won’t be disappointed! Every first of the month we discover new diamonds by boutique wineries from all over Greece!

Just remember: It’s always Wine O’clock, you can take away with you your favourite wine! We dare you to choose only one! / 10 Lempesi St. - Athens / t: +30 210 92 49 398 / fb: Wine O’Clock / insta: wineoclockathens

130 m / ACROPOLI METRO LINE 2

COFFEE BAR

PAIR A newly opened café calls you to start your day as you deserve, with coffee and breakfast next to Acropolis. Continue your day with a variety of spaghetti, salads and cold cuts for lunch or dinner. Let the experienced staff spell you and enjoy the quick service. A secret garden awaits you to taste wines and fanciful cocktails after your long evening walk under Acropolis.

/ 6 Athanasiou Diakou Str. - Athens / t: +30 216 00 24 276 / fb: Pair acropoli / insta: pair.acropoli

26 m / ACROPOLIS METRO LINE 2

FREE ATHENS

Financial supporter of the Greek War of Independence

Eynard was moved by the sale of Greeks in slave markets in the Mediterranean. After the Missolonghi sacrifice, he was convinced that more effective action was needed.

So, he sent 51,000 francs to ransom the enslaved women and children.

JEAN-GABRIEL EYNARD

Banker

Occupation

1775-1863 ▼ ▼ ▼ THE FINANCIAL SUPPORTER OF GREEKS Although he belonged to a Swiss family, Eynard was actually born in Lyon of France. Being a friend of Ioannis Kapodistrias, he was very enthusiastic about the struggle of the Greeks during the Greek War of Independence. He was the chief of the philhellenic community in Europe and he aided the revolutionaries financially. He was made a Greek citizen for his services to this cause. He also advised the new state of Greece. His recommendation of Otho of Bavaria for the throne of Greece was adopted.

His philhellenic feelings and sincere interest never stopped. In 1841 Eynard declared a “new alarm for the Greeks”, and he undertook efforts to help the Cretan Revolution of 1841 in order to liberate Megalonisos (Crete) and to unite it with Greece. However, he didn’t manage to send aid, because the revolution was quickly suppressed. In 1842, he became one of the co-founders of the National Bank of Greece. In 1839, he was one of the first Swiss to use the daguerreotype, a passion which he had until his death in 1863. His fortune was bequeathed to various charitable In his honor, the National Bank has named “Eynard’s mansion” the building that houses its Educational Institution, at the junction of Agios Konstantinos and Menandros streets, in the center of Athens. His name has also been given to a street in the Municipality of Athens.

enterprises.

pg 35

TAVERNA

KLIMATARIA Klimataria, which means «arbor» in greek, “has been spreading its leaves” since 1927 above the Temple of Apollo and next to the first covered theatre of Athens. You will immediately feel the vibes of the historic city centre!

Entertainment starts from traditional greek recipes enriched with modern touches and is successfully combined with tap wine of high quality. Sit comfortably and enjoy! / 2 Theatrou Sq. - Athens / t: +30 210 32 16 629 / www.klimataria.gr / fb: Klimataria

500 m / OMONIA ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 2

GREEK CUISINE

ACHILLEAS - VERGINA Don’t leave Athens without tasting the real greek souvlaki at Exarchia. Served with side dishes or with pita bread, Vergina’s souvlaki will please your palate.

You can also try the “skepasti”, a special version of greek pizza with gyros! Soups and hotpots are worth trying, as they are cooked with high quality oil and fresh ingredients following the tradition of the mediterranean cuisine.

/ 62 Valtetsiou St. - Exarchia / t: +30 210 33 02 933 / fb: Achileas1978

700 m / OMONIA ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 2

FREE ATHENS

THE FIRST “GREY CLOUDS” OVER THE GREEK REVOLUTION In the outbreak of the Greek Revolution there weren’t only supporters by the side of Greeks. Europeans condemned the Greek Revolution, although it hadn’t a social character, like other movements in Europe, but a purely liberation character after 400 whole years of slavery. They were aware that a possible expropriation of the Ottoman Empire would upset the balance in Europe to a great extent, a fact that the powerful of the Old Continent wanted to avoid.

Klemens von Metternich, the Austrian chancellor, was one of the first to discourage the Greek Revolution because of his monarchist sentiments. Due to his extreme conservative beliefs, Metternich wanted for Austria but also for Europe an entire system of government organisation based on the authority of

KLEMENS VON METTERNICH

the monarch, aided by a powerful bureaucracy.

British governors were also against the Greek Revolution of 1821, as the French consul mentioned in a memorandum to the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs in 1822 in Thessaloniki, with the main proponent of the anti-hellenic attitude the British Minister of Foreign Affairs, Lord Castlereagh. In the reborn Greek nation, British powers recognised an uprising naval power, which had to be drowned.

The French monarchy, recently wounded by the consequences of the French Revolution, was also leery of the demands of the Greek revolutionists.

In the case of Russia, the situation was controversial. Although Russia had placed under its protection the Christian populations of the Ottoman Empire, tsar Alexander didn’t exert political pressure on the Ottomans, as he didn’t seek to support the liberation of Greece.

Finally, the distant American state didn’t support the Greek Revolution, still American Philhellenism had a popular expression. America, aiming to serve

LORD CASTLEREAGH

her financial interests, followed a pro-turkish policy in order to sign a conducive trade agreement.

The people of the time, and not only the Greeks, seemed ready to claim their right to life, but the state authorities resisted with all their strength the impending social modernization.

TSAR ALEXANDER

▼ ▼ ▼

▼ ▼ ▼

The world is the expanding Greece and Greece is the shrinking world.

If it is true that the violin is the most perfect of musical instruments, then Greek is the violin

Victor Hugo, 1802-1885,

▼ ▼ ▼ The light of Greece opened my eyes, penetrated my pores, expanded my whole being.

of human thought.

French author

Helen Keller, 1880-1968, American Writer

To those who think that Greece does not matter today, let me say that they could not make a bigger mistake.

Today, like ancient Greece, is of the utmost importance for anyone look-

▼ ▼ ▼

ing to find himself.

Henry Miller, 1891-1980, American author

Hence, we will not say that Greeks fight like heroes, but that heroes fight like Greeks.

▼ ▼ ▼

Winston Churchill,

What the mind and the heart is for a human,

1874-1965, British Prime Minister, Nobel Prize

Greece is for humanity.

1953

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

▼ ▼ ▼ The world can be as dark as it wants, but it is enough to insert a piece of Greek life, to be

THEY SAID ABOUT GREECE OVER THE YEARS ▼ ▼ ▼

▼ ▼ ▼

Greece ... It all started here and will end

If in the library of your house you do not have the works of the ancient Greek writers, then you

here!

live in a house with no light.

immediately fully enlightened.

Jalaluddin Al Rumi,

Friedrich Nietzsche (1844-1900)

▼ ▼ ▼ Cursed Greek, you discovered everything, philosophy, geometry, physics, astronomy. You left

▼ ▼ ▼ Apart from the machines, everything timeless comes from ancient Greece: Schools, Gyms, Arithmetic, Geometry, History, Rhetoric, Physics, Biology, Anatomy, Hygiene, Decoration, Poetry, Music, Tragedy, Comedy.

George Bernard Shaw

1207-1273, Persian poet

nothing for us

Friedrich Schiller (1759-1805)

▼ ▼ ▼ Other countries offer you the discovery of customs, popular belief or the landscape, but Greece offers you something more difficult: the discovery of yourself.

Lawrence Darrell, 1912-1990, British author

Will Durand (1885-1981)

THE FIRST COUNTRY TO RECOGNIZE THE GREEK REVOLUTION Although we could expect that the Greek Revolution of 1821 would be supported by the Europeans neighbors, one small island in the west Atlantic ocean was the first to approve the Greek struggle, not only by offering help, but also recognizing the Revolution as a movement towards the making of the Greek state.

Prominent Greeks living in Paris, such as Adamantios Korais, announced their plea for help to the world community, but the only answer came from “Haition”, today’s Haiti. Poor Haiti was the second country in the Western Hemisphere, after the United States of America, to declare its independence from France on January 1, 1804.

The country became the first independent African-American Republic and the only state to be born after a successful slave revolution.

Having had a similar experience on the road to freedom, the Haitian president, a man of French descent from his father, with European culture and studies in France, was the only one who responded positively to the call, as he was inspired by strong philhellenic feelings. In a reply letter dated on January 15, 1822, Boyer acknowledged the Greeks’ right to self-determination and spoke warmly of the revolution.

Haiti sent 45 tons of coffee for sale to the Greeks in order to buy weapons and ammunition, but most importantly sent 100 Haitian volunteers. Unfortunately, the 100 romantic Haitians never arrived in Greece! They died because of hardship during their long and arduous voyage across the Atlantic ocean. Their sacrifice is considered one of the most heroic acts committed by non-Greeks during the Revolution.

Note that the first of the “Great Powers”, which differentiated and supported the Greeks, was finally Great Britain, which recognized the Revolution a year and a half after Haiti!

On the occasion of the celebrations for the 200 years since the Greek Revolution, it was proposed to place a marble votive plaque in the Greek Parliament and to award 100 scholarships to Haitian students for Greek educational institutions. Also, the municipality of Kalavrita honored Haiti in a special event, while the mayor started an information campaign of the local authorities of the whole country in order to raise money for the construction of a school in Haiti, which is facing serious financial problems with much of its population living in poverty.

pg 39

FREE ATHENS

COCKTAIL BAR

KOLOKOTRONI 9 Two minutes away from Syntagma Square, in the heart of Athens, you will find the urban courtyard of “9”. Its purpose is your aesthetic and imaginary journey through the award-winning cocktails and the eclectic atmosphere. In this artistic hangout, the meetings are accompanied with cocktails that love the handmade, the Greek land, the flowers, the surprises. In the signature suggestions of the menu you can discover raw materials, such as the Mediterranean cedar, the bergamot or the dittany from Crete, while our music choices travel you from Asia to the future. Tip: “Kolokotroni 9” is also ideal for meetings or appointments after the office, with alcoholic and nonalcoholic cocktails from 16.00 onwards. / 9 Kolokotroni St. - Syntagma / t: +30 210 32 32 795 / fb: Kolokotroni9 / insta: kolokotroni_9 550 m / SYNTAGMA METRO LINE 2 / METRO LINE 3

Abolitionist

▼ ▼ ▼

Samuel Gridley Howe was one of the most iconic figures in American history in the emancipation of the colored in the United States. Born in 1801 in Boston, he studied medicine at Brown University and later at Harvard.

THE “LAFAYETTE OF THE GREEK REVOLUTION”

after graduating. His problem was that he had fallen in love, but that love affair didn’t go well so Howe was disappointed. He needed to leave, do something important and change a page in his life. So after his studies and influenced by the writings of Lord Byron, he set sail for the revolted Greece to offer his knowledge handling the weapons as well as the scalpel. In 1824 he arrived in Greece to serve in the revolution as a surgeon but his duties were of a more military nature. In 1827 he returned to the United States to raise money to buy ammunition for the needs of the revolution. He managed to raise about $ 60,000. He also brought many Greek children back with him to Boston for their education. In 1828 he published his memoirs entitled “Historical Sketch of the Greek Revolution’’. Samuel Howe remained active and politically involved until the end of his life. He made a last trip to Greece in 1866, to carry relief to Cretan refugees during the Cretan Revolution

Surgeon

setts on November 10, 1801. He didn’t remain in his birthplace for long

Occupation

Samuel Gridley Howe was born on Pearl Street in Boston, Massachu-

1801-1876

Howe died on January 9, 1876. His remains are buried in Mount Auburn Cemetery in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

SAMUEL GRIDLEY HOWE

pg 41

THAI BAR RESTAURANT

ANDAMAN A roof garden full of exotic blooming plants and a great view that composes a wandering atmosphere. Join Andaman after 8 p.m. and enjoy the orange and pink shades of the sunset. Feel the athenian vibes that are diffused while tasting the thai cuisine, based on rice, seasonal vegetables, spices and coconut milk.

Wines made by small producers and colourful cocktails keep you company until late at night. / 187 Piraeus & 65 Alopis St. - Petralona / t: +30 211 21 04 939 / fb: Andaman

700 m / PETRALONA ISAP LINE 1

ASIAN FOOD & SUSHI

WABI SABI Located downtown, near Omonia square, Wabi Sabi is a very convenient place to get down to for your lunch, dinner or even for a variety of iced tea or a snack break during your town roamings. Fresh sushi and salads, great chinese and asian cuisine, ramen, pho and asian noodles soups, but also desserts are being served all day long. Highly recommended by Google and TripAdvisor.

/ 8 Kanigos St. - Athens / t: +30 210 33 06 562 / www.wabisabi.gr / fb: Wabi Sabi

270 m / OMONIA ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 2

FREE ATHENS

Army Officer

Mirziewski was among the select officers who accompanied the exiled former emperor Napoleon to the island of Elbe. Napoleon’s Guard included only the best military officers, and this Polish cavalry officer had proven his fighting skills.

MIRZIEWSKI ▼ ▼ ▼ CHE GUEVARA OF THE REVOLUTION

they wanted to pray. Unfortunately, the Greek Revolution didn’t manage to benefit from the services of the Polish officer for long. Mirziewski was one of the many European philhellenes who were slaughtered at the Battle of Peta on July 4, 1822, as he attempted to break the Turkish siege. Before the battle he had said: “Everywhere I fought, under Napoleon and Bolivar, in France, in Russia, in Piedmont, in Naples and in South America, I saw how badly people were doing. But I have a clear consciousness because from a young age I fought for the justification of the oppressed people. Faithful to this principle, I only have one wish: To die for the liberation of the Greeks. May God grant me rest in this heroic land. “

In honor of his memory, the Greek State gave his name to a street in the area of Filopappou, Athens.

his language and they crossed their arms as they did in church when

Cavalry Officer

confidence that the Greeks bowed before him without understanding

Unknown Occupation

The Italian colonel Dania had written about him that he spoke with such

Dates

pg 43

CAFE - BAR

BAR

The oldest bar in the area and one of the oldest in Athens has been serving high quality coffees and cocktails since 1981. Feel the vibes of Exarchia while tasting a wide variety of beers starting with Guinness draught to international and greek crafted beers by microbreweries.

A bar set up for parties, awashed with drinks and cocktails made with fresh fruit and pure ingredients at affordable prices. You will listen to all kinds of music while dancing the night away. You will be wowed even with the decoration made by artists-close friends of Frau!

INTRIGA

FREE ATHENS

FRAU

/ 60 Dervenion St. - Exarchia / t: +30 210 33 00 936 / fb: Intriga Cafe Bar / insta: intriga_cafe_bar

900 m / OMONIA ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 2

350 m / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2

/ 6 Feidiou St. - Athens / t: +30 210 38 10 640 / fb: FRAU cafe-bar / insta: @frau_cafe_bar

´ CAFΕTERIA-BAR

COFFEE SHOP

Greek hospitality is combined with French finesse in a cozy bar in the center of Athens. It is loved by all Athenians, since the good coffee they offer helps to start our day well, while the cocktails are of a high standard.

In The Underdog Flagship store in Thissio, you will find everyday a wide selection of freshly roasted specialty coffees prepared by World barista champions. Accompany your coffee with their awarded brunch menu from 09:00 to 17:00 in their open yard or in the interior, where all health measurements are maintained.

THE UNDERDOG

CHARTREUSE

450 m / OMONOIA ISAP LINE 1, METRO LINE 2

/ 2 Mavrokordatou St. - Athens / t: +30 210 38 10 716 / fb: Chartreuse Caféteria-Bar / insta: chartreuse_cafe_bar

350 m / THISSIO ISAP LINE 1

/ 8 Iraklidon St. - Thissio / t: +30 213 03 65 393 / www.underdog.gr / fb: The Underdog / insta: the_underdog_project

A handwritten document of the guard Antonios Figueira d’Almeida is kept in the historical Archive of Nafplio, in Greece.

Cavalry Colonel

ANTONIO FIGUEIRA D’ALMEIDA

Occupation

Antonio Figueira d’Almeida was born in 1784 in the Portuguese city of Elbe. He served as an officer and fought against the French army sent to Spain to support the Bourbon dynasty. He was the first Portuguese philhellene who supported Greeks.

Army officer

1783-1847 ▼ ▼ ▼ THE CREATOR OF THE GREEK CAVALRY ARMY After the beginning of the Greek Revolution, Antonio Figueira d’ Almeida came to Greece. In August 1826, having the command of the colonel of the cavalry, he distinguished himself as a corps commander in Tripoli. In March of the following year, he fought under George Karaiskakis in Attica. With the arrival of the governor Kapodistrias in Greece, d’Almeida became an inspector of the regular cavalry and was assigned the reorganization of the corps of the newly formed Greek state. On January 22, 1830 he was appointed as a guard of Nafplio. After the murder of Kapodistrias, he arrested one of the perpetrators, Georgios Mavromichalis. For his lawful attitude he was named an honorary citizen of Nafplio by the 5th National Assembly and in March 1832 he was promoted to general. However, after king Otto arrived in Greece, the Regency didn’t recognize him as a general and finally on May 10, 1833, he was appointed guardian of Aegina. He was promoted to lieutenant general after the suppression of Colonel N. Zervas’s rebellion in Messolonghi, where d’Almeida was appointed military commander in 1836. In 1839 he was appointed military commander in Nafplio. He died in 1847 in Batalia, Venice. He was married to the greek woman, Zoe Mavrokordatou.

pg 45

GREEK TAVERN

ROZALIA On the pedestrian street of Exarchia, Rozalia invites you to get in touch with the traditional greek cuisine. Maybe you have already heard of the greek moussaka and pastitsio. So, it’s about time to taste the plates that characterize the greek cuisine.

Your tasty choices include fish, seafood, appetizers, but also a wide range of greek wines that will satisfy your sensations.

/ 59 Valtetsiou St. - Exarchia / t: +30 210 38 02 725 / www.rozalia.gr / fb: Ροζαλια-Rozalia

850 m / OMONIA ISAP LINE 1/ METRO LINE 2

GREEK RESTAURANT

MARTINIS KOUZINA This restaurant has been offering traditional Greek and Mediterranean flavors since 1969. Its grills stand out for their quality, while its meat and fish are fresh and cooked in a special way by experts. Enjoy your meal in the magical garden and feel like you are in the yard of an old Athenian house, where neighbors meet and share their news!

/ 289 Patision & Iakovaton St. - Athens / t: +30 210 21 11 063 / www.martiniskouzina.gr / fb: Μartinis Kouzina

800 m / KATO PATISSIA METRO LINE 1

FREE ATHENS

1792-1871

Painter

Occupation

PETER VON HESS

▼ ▼ ▼ THE ARRIVAL OF OTTO IN NAFPLIO In 1833 Peter von Hess traveled to Greece with King Otto. He depicted his arrival in Nafplio, which documents the establishment of the Greek state. Bright colors dominate the landscape to emphasize the joy of the event to the viewer.

pg 47

FREE ATHENS

CROISSANTERIE

OVEROLL Overoll Croissanterie was born when three young pastry chefs wanted to share their desire for classic french croissants with all the croissant lovers.

The inspiration around the product and the whole style of the space came from Australia. When entering Overoll or even watching from the street, you can see the window case filled with croissants. If you are even a little curious, you can’t resist the temptation to enter and see what’s happening inside!

When it comes to product quality, the best ingredients are used, starting from the basics, like butter and flour, to the fruits and vegetables. The same goes for coffee products of course and the tea selection offered at the store, which is a high quality French brand.

/ 27 Praxitelous St. - Athens / t: +30 211 41 98 151 / fb: Overoll Croissanterie / Insta: overoll.croissanterie

400 m / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2

SCULPTURES IN MEMORY OF THE PHILEHELLENES The honor of the heroes is to remain in the collective memory. And for this reason, statues, busts and monuments are a way for each city to keep the imprint of each hero in squares, parks and streets. The Philhellenes who helped so much in the success of the Greek Revolution have been honored and continue to be honored by laying wreaths at memorial sites.

▼ ▼ ▼ MONUMENT TO THE FRENCH PHILHELLENES / MESSOLONGHI It is a marble construction consisting of two parts on the basis of which is written in French and Greek: “In memory of the French Philhellenes”. It is a creation of George Megoulas. The most famous and most visited place in Messolonghi attracts dozens of tourists every year and is the trademark of the city that went down in history through the revolution of 1821. It is a unique, for Greece, park with monuments to famous and anonymous heroes who fell in the Struggle for Freedom.

▼ ▼ ▼ STATUE OF WILLIAM GLADSTONE / UNIVERSITY OF ATHENS William Gladstone’s Adrian is the work of George Vitalis and is located outside the University of Athens. The Greek government sent George Vitalis to England to study the characteristics of Gladstone’s physiognomy and to complete his studies. A bust of Pentelic marble was also sent to the English politician himself. Gladstone is depicted standing, in the position of an orator. He has his right hand extended, while his left hand holds the scroll with the Treaty of Berlin, and below, next to his left foot, are two books, a reference to his special love for Homeric poems. The artist captures him the moment he talks about the laws of Greece, dressed in a suit of his time, combining realistic elements and idealistic classicist types.

pg 49

▼ ▼ ▼ EDWARD EVERETT AND SAMUEL GRINDLEY HOWE / BUSTS IN TRIPOLI In the center of Tripoli, in the Peloponnese, going from the exit to the center, on the left, and in front of the wagon, is the bust of Edward Everett and on the right, in the park of the Cultural Center, the bust of Samuel Grindley Howe.

Edward Everett was born in 1794 and served in various political positions during his lifetime. He was the first Professor of Greek at Harvard University. He had met Adamantios Korais in 1817 in Paris. Two years later he visited Greece, making a trip that deeply affected him for the rest of his life. In May 1821, shortly after the outbreak of the Revolution, the President of the Messinian Senate, Petrobeis Mavromichalis, addressed a letter to the citizens of America asking for their support and help. This letter arrived in July 1821, through Adamantios Korais, to Edward Everett, requesting to be published. Everett took strong action in favor of the Greek cause, constantly writing articles, asking for the support of the Americans in the Greek struggle. He paralleled the struggle of the Greeks with that of his fellow citizens during the American Revolution. Everett’s writings decisively influenced and sensitized the public, but also many public officials, who raised the issue of American intervention in favor of Greece in the US Congress.

Samuel Grindley Howe was the “Lafayette” of the Greek revolution, as he was called. He was born in November 1801 in Boston. He studied medicine at Harvard University. In 1824 he declared that he would go to the revolution in Greece and try to amuse the concern of his family, arguing that there, during the war, he would have more opportunities to practice and improve his surgical skills! He arrived in Greece in 1825 and served in the Greek army, first as a volunteer soldier and then as a doctor-surgeon. He participated in several battles and gained the respect of all. In 1827, he returned to the United States to raise supplies and money for the Greek cause. He managed to raise the impressive, for the time, amount of 60,000 dollars and traveled again to Greece in 1828 to distribute the aid himself. Howe returned to Greece in 1867, with the outbreak of the Cretan Revolution.

FREE ATHENS

▼ ▼ ▼ MONUMENT OF THE PHILEHELLENES / NAFPLIO The monument consists of a wooden arch, donated by the French philhellene officer Augustus Hilarion Toure, which adorns the inner side of the entrance of a church and dates from 1841. The arch, which became known as the “Toure arch”, is made of pine wood and refers to in an ancient Greek temple.

The names of foreign Philhellenes and the place where they fell are inscribed in white letters.

Among the names are the Poles who were killed in the Battle of Peta and on the islands of Evia and Poros. The designer of the monument was the Bavarian sculptor Christian Seigel.

By Victor Hugo

«Les Orientales»

THE GREEK BOY «Les Οrientales» is a collection of poems by Victor Hugo, inspired by the Greek Revolution. They were published in January 1829.

▼ ▼ ▼ All is a ruin where rage knew no bounds: Chio is levelled, and loathed by the hounds, For shivered yest’reen was her lance; Sulphurous vapors envenom the place Where her true beauties of Beauty’s true race Were lately linked close in the dance.

Dark is the desert, with one single soul; Cerulean eyes! whence the burning tears roll In anguish of uttermost shame, Under the shadow of one shrub of May, Splashed still with ruddy drops, bent in decay Where fiercely the hand of Lust came.

“Soft and sweet urchin, still red with the lash Of rein and of scabbard of wild Kuzzilbash, What lack you for changing your sob — If not unto laughter beseeming a child — To utterance milder, though they have defiled The graves which they shrank not to rob?

“Would’st thou a trinket, a flower, or scarf, Would’st thou have silver? I’m ready with half These sequins a-shine in the sun!

Still more have I money — if you’ll but speak!”

He spoke: and furious the cry of the Greek, “Oh, give me your dagger and gun!”

pg 51

FREE ATHENS

MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT

KIVELI If you want to mix with the Athenian crowd, then visit Kiveli and do it like a local. A traditional meze-restaurant of modern aesthetic at the same time, which has been a hangout for Athenians for a long time, since it’s located on a beautiful pedestrian area in a neighbourhood full of history. Traditional greek products, like feta cheese, and recipes with greek yoghurt accompany pumpkin croquettes and meatballs made of minced beef.

Vegetarian and vegan plates are also available for a complete combination of mediterranean and greek flavours.

Quench your thirst either with a beer or with house and bottled greek wine; there is a good choice of drinks, it’s hard to pick. Book your table before your lunch or dinner!

/ 15 Eptanisou St. - Athens / t: +30 210 82 19 406 / fb: Kivelirest / insta: kyveli_kypseli

900 m / VICTORIA ISAP LINE 1

Ernst Michael Mangel was a Hungarian musician, composer, and philhellene, who became the director of the first military band of Revolutionary Greece and the Greek Kingdom. He had served before as a lieutenant in the French Army.

Director of the first military band of Revolutionary Greece and the Greek Kingdom

Ernst Mangel was born in 1800 in the Transylvanian city of Karlsburg.

After the outbreak of the Greek Revolution in 1821, he joined the movement of Philhellenism and in 1823 he went to Greece to fight alongside the Greeks. In 1824, Mangel and his father arrived in Missolonghi, where they entered the regular brigade, which was under formation under the auspices of Lord Byron. After Byron’s death, he followed the French philhellene, Colonel Charles Nicolas Fabvier, who was tasked with creating a regular army. Fabvier organized a military band, called the Musical Troupe, and entrusted its direction to Mangel. In 1828, with the arrival of the first Governor of Greece, John Kapodistrias, Mangel and his orchestra settled in Nafplio. In 1834 Mangel converted to Greek Orthodox, choosing the name “Michael”, he married a local woman and left the army. Following the establishment of a Music School in Athens in 1843, Mangel was recalled to active duty and appointed the School’s director.

At the same time, Mangel wrote military marches based on Greek folk music and adapted European marches for local use. Later, he was promoted to musical inspector and retired in 1870 with the rank of Major.

1800-1887

Manuscripts of three triumphal marches dedicated to King Otto are stored in the Bavarian State Library in the city of Munich.

AN ENCOURAGING MUSICIAN

Occupation

▼ ▼ ▼

Musician, Composer

ERNST MICHAEL MANGEL

pg 53

COFFEE BAR

ALL DAY COFFEE BAR

A minimal café with surf influences: Discover its cold brew coffee packed in a can and take a look at the brand new drinks menu. Don’t miss to taste the cinnamon roll and the ocean beef, while watching surfing videos that are displayed on the projector in the evenings.

Although located downtown Athens,this boho-style coffee-bar invites you to take a break from the noisy streets,under its shady tree.Traditional wood-roasted italian coffee,fresh smoothies and beverages,spirits and cocktails are accompanied by handmade sweet and savoury snacks and salads.

LOT 51

290 m / MEGARO MOUSIKIS METRO LINE 3

VOLVER A LA SOMBRA

/ 24B Papadiamantopoulou St. - Athens / t: +30 693 733 7066 / www.lot51.gr / fb: LOT51 / insta: lot.51

BAR

IPPOPOTAMOS There is a cute “hippo” in one of the most famous pedestrian streets in the centre of Athens. It’s about the Ippopotamos bar, which means “hippo” in greek. Small rooms, corners with bars and a green yard compose the one of the oldest bars of the city. Visit it for a snack and coffee in the morning or for a drink in the evening.

/ 3Β Delfon St. - Kolonaki / t: +30 210 36 34 583 / fb: Ippopotamos Bar

600 m / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2

FREE ATHENS

400 m / SYNTAGMA METRO LINES 2, 3

/ 7a Valaoritou St. - Syntagma / t: +30 210 36 35 557 / fb: Volver

The second painting he created about the Greek Revolution was about the siege of Messolonghi in 1825. It was completed a year later, capturing history much faster than humanity had become accustomed to. This painting also pays tribute to Lord Byron, who died on the side of the Greek front in the same city.

Leader of the French Romantic school

` EUGENE DELACROIX Delacroix’s desire for inspiration of dramatic and romantic content led him to travel in North Africa, in search of the exotic. He believed that the North Africans provided a visual equivalent to the people of Classical Rome and Greece.

Artist

Occupation

1798-1863

▼ ▼ ▼ AN ENGAGED ARTIST Eugène Delacroix was born on April 26, 1798 at Charenton-Saint-Maurice in Île-de-France, near Paris. Delacroix was inspired by contemporary events to invoke this romantic image of the spirit of liberty. The great station of his creative course is the work inspired by the Greek Revolution of 1821. When in 1824 the English philhellene poet and leader of the struggling Romanticism, Byron, dies in Messolonghi, Delacroix, deeply moved by this event, exhibits in the Salon the “Slaughter of Chios”, a work in which the horror of the war, the passions of the enslaved people and the course of the dramatic developments in Greece, which was watched by the whole of progressive Europe, found expression. This monumental work, which is the beginning of a series of works inspired by the Greek Revolution, placed him first among the Romantic painters of his time and among the great philhellenes. Eugene Delacroix died on August 13, 1863 in Paris, at the age of 65.

pg 55

GREEK CUISINE

MIKRI VENETIA On Acropolis feet you will have the chance to experience a journey in the traditional tastes of different places of Greece even before you visit them! Mikri Venetia mixes cultures and ingredients from all over Greece and offers you a gastronomic tour! Plates from Volos, Crete, Corfu and Cycladic islands meet each other in the friendly atmosphere of Mikri Venetia, located on a pedestrian area in one of the most famous neighbourhoods of Athens, Koukaki. / 15 Geor. Olympiou St. - Koukaki / t: +30 213 02 59 158 / www.mikrivenetia.gr / fb: Μικρή Βενετία / insta: mikri_venetia 546 m / SYGGROU-FIX METRO LINE 2

GREEK CUISINE

ΟΙ ΝOSTIMIES TIS MAIRIS Either for lunch or dinner, this place offers authentic and traditional food at its finest! Here is your chance to discover everything you have heard about the Mediterranean and Greek cuisine, freshly cooked with the purest ingredients and served in a traditional Greek environment.

Take a glance at their display window before choosing your meal! There are excellent choices for vegans too!

/ 2-4 Idras St. - Kypseli / t: +30 210 82 13 136 / fb: OiNostimiesTesMaires

900 m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1

FREE ATHENS

Doctor of the Greek army

▼ ▼ ▼ A TURK AGAINST HIS NATION Hasan Agas Kourt Alis was born before 1800 and lived with his family in Atalanti, a town in the centre of Greece. He was working as an empirical surgeon, when the Greek Revolution burst in his town and his family was slaughtered in front of his eyes. Although he lost his wife and children by the greek forces, he offered his medical services for the Greek cause.

His name is mentioned in the Memoirs of the army general Makriyannis, as he cured several Greek fighters. In 1822 he settled in Acropolis on the side of Odysseas Androutsos, when he became the chief of Athens.

He supported the Greek fighters while they were confined in Acropolis during the siege of the Turks. After the fall of Athens, Hasan Agas Kourt Alis moved in Halkida of Euboea, where he lived until his death. There, he was married for the second time to a Turkish woman. He continued offering his services as a surgeon until he got blind, sio he started giving medical lessons to young Greek and Turkish doctors. The Greek State granted a pension to his wife after his death as it was used to all the families of the Greek fighters of 1821.

HASAN AGAS KOURT ALIS

Hasan Agas Kourt Alis was a full-blooded Turkish doctor.

However, he ministered to all Greek combatants of the Greek Revolution and he was announced by the Greek State officer after his death.

In the Department of Manuscripts of the National Library, a letter of Hasan Agas Kourt Alis’ wife has been saved in the official registers of fighters of 1821, which dates back to 1856, when her husband had already died.

Surgeon

Occupation

18th century

pg 57

BEER BAR

FOOD & SPIRITS

Tapfield is the fountain of beers as its name reveals. Greek craft beers from greek microbreweries spring from 23 taps, placed on a designed wooden bar, leaking out their fresh aftertaste. Side dishes complete your beer journey in a cozy place with mixed new yorker and british details.

A family-run café with warm ambiance and vintage decoration, that reminds us of the old but cozy Athenian houses, is located in the neighbourhood of Koukaki.

Monsieur Barbu opens its doors for coffee, brunch and all-day meals. Drinks and special cocktails are added to your late-night choices.

TAPFIELD

400 m / MONASTIRAKI ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 3

GREEK FOOD

DIALOGOS The place where the past welcomes the present! Historical place, open since 1989, Dialogos, which means “conversation” in greek, challenges you to stop talking on the phone with your friends and come together to our spot under Acropolis. Coffee, beverages and a variety of options for breakfast, lunch and dinner following the greek traditional cuisine, always sprinkled with the chef’s personal touches. Here, face-to-face communication along with high-quality products are placed first!

/ 23A Adrianou St. - Monastiraki / t: +30 210 32 38 276 / fb: Δialogos / insta: dialogos_restaurant 220 m / MONASTIRAKI ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 3

FREE ATHENS

MONSIEUR BARBU

/ 4 Navarchou Apostoli - Athens / t: +30 210 32 21 923 / www.tapfield.gr / fb: Tapfield

115 m / SIGGROU-FIX METRO LINE 2

/ 59 Falirou St. - Koukaki - Athens / t: +30 210 92 47 555 / fb: Monsieur Barbu

Restaurant cocktail bar

By Percey Shelley

HELLAS Poem

by Percey Shelley (1792-1822), written in 1821 and published in 1822

▼ ▼ ▼ He world’s great age begins anew, The golden years return, The earth doth like a snake renew Her wintry weeds outworn: Heaven smiles, and faiths and empires gleam Like wrecks of a dissolving dream.

A brighter Hellas rears its mountains From waves serener far; A new Peneus rolls his fountains Against the morning star; Where fairer Tempes bloom, there sleep Young Cyclads on a sunnier deep.

A loftier Argo claims the main, Fraught with a later prize; Another Orpheus sings again, And loves, and weeps, and dies; A new Ulysses leaves once more Calypso for his native shore.

O write no more the tale of Troy, If earth Death’s scroll must be-Nor mix with Laian rage the joy Which dawns upon the free, Although a subtler Sphinx renew Riddles of death Thebes never knew.

Another Athens shall arise, And to remoter time Bequeath, like sunset to the skies, The splendour of its prime; And leave, if naught so bright may live, All earth can take or Heaven give.

Saturn and Love their long repose Shall burst, more bright and good Than all who fell, than One who rose, Than many unsubdued: Not gold, not blood, their altar dowers, But votive tears and symbol flowers.

O cease! must hate and death return?

Cease! must men kill and die?

Cease! drain not its dregs the urn Of bitter prophecy!

The world is weary of the past-O might it die or rest at last!

pg 59

GELATO

CAFE-RESTAURANT

DJANGO GELATO

ROLOI

Maybe you haven’t tasted such fresh gelato like that produced in Django Gelato. Handmade, natural gelato, made on a daily basis and in small quantities, since no artificial ingredients are used. Premium raw materials, like bio milk and eggs, nuts and chocolate, come from small greek producers.

300 m / ACROPOLIS METRO LINE 2

CAFE-BAR AND PASTRY

THE UPSIDE DOWN Theme design, inspired by the ‘80s disco and rock vibes, and four sitting rooms decorated with different aesthetics. The outdoor lit seats give their place to a typical american sitting room. In the third space, you can sit and see the production of all our goods, while the backyard has murals of video games. The extravagant, colourful sweets and drinks are also a masterpiece.

/ 14 Lepeniotou St. - Athens / t: +30 210 33 10 509 / www.theupsidedown.gr / fb: The Upside Down / insta: theupsidedown_gr

900 m / OMONIA ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 2

FREE ATHENS

/ 15 Veikou St. - Athens / t: +30 693 739 5363 / www.djangogelato.com / fb: Django Gelato Athens / insta: djangogelato_ath

Built in 1880, ROLOI has been established as the hot spot of Lavrio. A place where you can taste the traditional mediterranean cuisine right by the sea, while wandering the speedboats in the marina of Lavrio. Sit comfortable and get lost in the variety of the greek menu!

190 m/ MARINA LAVRIO BUS ATHENS - LAVRIO

/ Papandreou coast - Lavrio, 19500 / t: +30 2292 028188 / fb: Roloi Lavrio

USEFUL ADVICE Wake up early, for god’s shake! (of course, you did not expect us to remind that to you).

ATHENS: A... LIVE MUSEUM Can you imagine a museum in which the entrance is free? In which you can speak as loudly as you want, drink and eat whatever you want? A museum that never closes its doors? Oh, that would be awesome if it was real… And, hopefully, it is.

USEFUL ADVICE Organise well your day. Some really good museums can be found in the same part of the city. Famous museum spots are of course Plaka, Monastiraki, Kolonaki and Syntagma. Choose which day you are going to visit EACH museum.

This magical museum is Athens. Even if you have no time to spend in an official museum out there, you can smell the history in every street of this city.

Ancient walls, big stones where maybe a great philosopher standed one day, streets that have been walked by warriors or famous politician, such as Periklis or Eleftherios Venizelos. Try to understand that history in Athens did not end with the ancient Greeks and Socrates. The continue is even more fascinating: Romans, Bizantine Empire, modern greek history.

In addition, all those years many artists lived and created in Athens, such as famous architects, poets and musicians. Can you discover their masterpieces which are spread in all over the city? Can you recognize some statues? Are you familiar with names such as Kostis Palamas, Alekos Fasianos, Dimitris Fotiadis, Melina Merkouri? Can you see the signs that lead to the most strategic points of Athens?

Religion has played an important role to the evolution of our history.

Beautiful Christian orthodox churches are located everywhere and they are so different from the catholic ones, which exist in Athens but they are not so many. What about mosques? Our city is the only European capital in which they are not official mosques and the ones which are in function are…illegal and/or unofficial. As for the modern, political and social history of Athens, this can be read in the walls. Mottos and graffitis show the difficult economic situation of our country or shout for freedom, equality and love. History in Athens-and, to be honest, in every city as vivid as it- is written every day…

If you stand a few minutes in Monastiraki Square you can see the history of Athens in 10 minutes. Recently renovated, the Square was covered with mosaic blocks of marble, stone and carved cast iron, which symbolize the «flows» and the people of the Mediterranean.

You can find the train station (1895) and the metro station (2004).

The lines of the metro are meeting the ancient river Iridanos. In front of you, there is the Tzistaraki Mosque (1759), the small Pantanassa Church, which used to be a church only for women during the ottoman domination, as well as a part of Library’s Wall (132 A.C), as a gift from the Roman Emperor Adrianos.

Athens Flea Market starts from Monastiraki Square everybody knows that, after history classes, a shopping therapy is the best you can do!

What is your favourite corner of this alive museum?

Take a photo and send it at info@ipolizei.gr.

USEFUL ADVICE Keep the purchase of some special presents for the people you love in museums’ shops. Really good qualitY, originality and a variety of options will help you return home as a real collector of greek history!

▼ ▼ ▼ INTERESTING ORIGINAL MUSEUMS In Athens you are not going to miss two things: food and history.

Both of them are everywhere. Both of them are precious, but not expensive. The numerous museums of almost every corner of this city prove that, if you like to expand your knowledge while vacating, you are in the right place. Except for the already known to you museums, such as the one of Acropolis, there are so many others, that can really surprise you!

Because, nowadays, the philosophy of museums in the whole world, and for sure in the greek capital, has changed: they are more interactive, thanks to the new technologies. Some of them have free entrance some days of the month or of the week. Stay informed about the special exhibitions of your favourite museums and give a chance to places that even Greeks do not know very well, those little spaces which reveal interesting stories about the greek society, gastronomy, education as well as everything else you can imagine.

Do not forget that greek history goes really deep and far into the centuries, while Greek people have been mixed throughout the years with different and numerable populations of other countries and cultures. The beauty of our country, and, of course, of our colourful capital is that we are a spicy and unique mixture of elements that can be found in almost all over the world!

To know us better, there are many ways. One of them, maybe one of the best ways, is a walk to what is dramatically changing day by day. Plan to visit the places that you want, but also relax and enjoy what your own spontaneous steps in the city will reveal to your eyes! Surprises of knowledge and discovery will be waiting for you…

▼ ▼ ▼

▼ ▼ ▼

ATHENS EPIDAURUS FESTIVAL 2021

ATHENS OPEN AIR FESTIVAL

23-25 Jul, 21:00

Thursday, July 29th, 21:30

Ancient Theater of Epidaurus

THE WAGES OF FEAR / LE SALAIRE

Michail Marmarinos Trackers

DE LA PEUR

by Sophocles

By Henri-Georges Clouzot (1953, 147’) AB open air cinema, 36 Theotokopoulou str., Patissia

26-29 Jul, 21:00

Screening in collaboration with the

Peiraios 260, Hall E

French Institute of Greece

Anestis Azas The republic of Baklava

Friday, August 20th, 21:30

KLUTE

25, 27, 29 Jul, 21:00

By Alan J. Pakula (1971, 114’)

Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Trianon open air cinema, 21 Kodrigk-

Greek National Opera

tonos str., Patissia

Manos Hadjidakis

50th anniversary screening of the film

Dance with my shadow

Free Admission for all screenings Entrance e-ticket reservations are required in advance. For more information visit aoaff.gr.

CONCERTS AND PERFORMANCES YOU NEED TO SEE! ▼ ▼ ▼

▼ ▼ ▼

PLISSKËN FESTIVAL

ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS

11& 12 September Technopolis, Athens 11/9/2021

27 September 2021

▼ ▼ ▼ SUMMER NOSTOS FESTIVAL

LA FEMME // KID FRANCESCOLI

YANN TIERSEN LIVE

+ MORE TBA

29 September 2021

Stavros Niarchos

Tiger Lillies: A musical performance

Foundation

from the famous artists

27 August 2021

12/9/2021

GOAT // BBYMUTHA // LSDXOXO + MORE TBA

Good Job NIcky

KOSMOIATRIKI MEDICAL CENTER

high quality health care services

MEDICAL DIAGNOSTIC DEPARTMENTS Magnetic Resonance Tomography (MRI) Computed Tomography Digital Mammography – Tomosynthesis Digital Radiography Digital Panoramic X-Ray Digital Cephalometric X-Ray

el y Enjo Safe holidays Trav Safe back home Covid Testing Departments • Ano Patissia • Sepolia With required TEST COVID-19 certificate • PCR Test • Rapid Test Same day available appointments for test COVID-19

T. +30 210 8640918

Email: covid-19@kosmoiatriki.com www.kosmoiatriki.com/covid19-form

Cone Beam Computed Tomography CBCT Bone Densitometry Body Composition Analysis Ultrasound of the Body Doppler Ultrasound of the Vessels Transvaginal - Transrectal Ultrasound Musculoskeletal Ultrasound – Ultrasound of the Joints - Ultrasound of the Small parts Biopsies Department of Nuclear Medicine Cardiology Department Doppler Echocardiography Stress Echo - Stress test Neurophysiological Department Electroencephalogram (EEG) Electromyogram (EMG) Gastroenterological - Endoscopy Gastroscopy-Colonoscopy Virtual Colonoscopy Biopathological Microbiological Immunological Biochemical Hormonal Molecular Cytopathology

SEPOLIA 165 AMFIARAOU STR Metro station SEPOLIA (Line 2)

ANO PATISSIA 12 CHALKIDOS STR Metro station ANO PATISSIA (ISAP- Line 1)

COVID-19 TESTING HOURS: Monday – Friday: 8:00 – 20:00 Saturday: 9:00-13:00

Rast Test Drug levels Test PAP Prenatal Screening Check Up

▼ ▼ ▼ KOTSANAS MUSEUM OF ANCIENT GREEK TECHNOLOGY WEARS ITS SUMMER MOOD AND WELCOMES ITS AUDIENCE; CHILDREN AND ADULTS WITH A DOUBLE TRIBUTE! What could have in common the revolution of 1821 with the inventions of the ancient Greeks?

The cutting-edge technology of the past is at its best and invites you to travel, starting from the emblematic inventors of antiquity up to the protagonists of the Greek revolution.

The thread begins to unfold with the Antikythera Mechanism. The first computer in history is introduced to us like we have never seen it before.

Four different thematic tours in the permanent collection “Ancient Greece – the Origins of Technologies” and two educational workshops that highlight unknown aspects of the Mechanism such as who may have invented it, what are its functions, who were involved in the research and its decryption, what information can provide us the

200 YEARS SINCE THE GREEK REVOLUTION OR 2000 SINCE THE ORIGINS OF MODERN TECHNOLOGY? “The Inventors” |Thematic Tour for teenagers and adults Who invented the Antikythera Mechanism?

Archimedes, Hipparchus and Posidonius are suggested as possible inspirators of the Mechanism. The work and the course of knowledge around technology and astronomy stand out to illuminate invisible aspects of science.

Duration: 45΄

The “enigma” | Thematic Tour for teenagers and adults

What parts might compose the “puzzle” of the Antikythera Mechanism?

Starting from the outside part, the Egyptian and the zodiac calendar up to the Sun, the Earth and the Moon, and from the cycles of Meton, Kallipos, Saros and the athletic games even the different signs that we can read on it, we “assemble” piece by piece all known information until today and reveal the enigma of the Mechanism!

Duration: 60΄

“The researchers” | Thematic Tour for teenagers and adults

Who are those who researched the construction and operation of the Mechanism from time to time? What techniques did they use? What are their findings?

The researchers of the Antikythera Mechanism are introduced to the public through their life

famous Antikythera wreck and the functional heart

and work!

of the Mechanism.

Duration: 60΄

“20 + 1 sunken gears”, the “War correspondents” and an exciting “naval battle” with the famous Syracusia welcome you on board to discover all the hidden cards of the Greek Revolution!

“The plot twists of Ancient Greeks” | Thematic Tour for teenagers and adults What if this is not just what it seems? Behind obvious conclusions, the technological

inventions of the ancient Greeks have influences from sciences such as Physics, Mathematics, Engineering, Astronomy and Music! Ready for a journey into the non-apparent?

Duration: 60΄

“On the Seabed” | Interactive Workshop for children

What kind of secrets hide the waters of the seas? How long can something be kept intact at the bottom of the sea?

Six famous shipwrecks, Dokos, Kasos, Kyrenia, Modi and Alonissos tell us their stories. Treasures and great secrets from the past come to light through an “underwater exploration” that will “immerse” us in the sanctuaries of antiquity!

Duration: 90΄

“The heart” | Interactive Workshop for children and youngsters 6 Pindarou Str. & Academias - Kolonaki t: +30 211 41 10 044 Ε: info@kotsanas.com

The most important challenge begins! The heart of the Antikythera Mechanism is in our hands!

Will we be able to keep it alive?

Working hours: Monday-Sunday 10:00-18:00

Each piece of the heart is studied and designed wisely. Every piece has its own role. Caution!

Each gear is able to transfer us to the past or travel us to the future but also to bring us to the present. Could the position of the Sun or the phase of the Moon be the key? A test will convince us!

Duration: 90΄

pg 65

CAFE | VEGGIE & VEGAN RESTAURANT

ANÄNA You will find a famous and cozy cafe restaurant on the street of Praxitelous.

Famous because it offers specialty coffee, that you can enjoy with handmade vegan sweets and chocolates. Plus, in the menu, you can find something tasteful to eat for meal, especially if you have vegan or vegetarian taste, made by high quality organic products.

/ 33 Praxitelous St. - Athens / t: +30 211 11 51 788 / fb: ANÄNA / insta: ananacoffeefood

400 m / AKADIMIAS METRO LINE 2

RESTAURANT

KEENKIES The best spot for odd salty and sweet choices! Try the greek baby donuts and peinirlis made with traditional doughs, but enriched with tasty modern twists.

Choose the greek pastitsio served on donut for your lunch and after get lost in the wide variety of desserts. All food choices are also available in vegan versions! Tell us that you found Keenkies in “FREE ATHENS” and get a 10% discount in our restaurant. / 56 Themistokleous St. - Athens / t: +30 210 38 15 278 / fb: Keenkies / insta: keenkies

500 m / OMONIA ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 2

FREE ATHENS

Feel the energy of Kerameikos and have infinite fun!

Do not forget to take a picture of your favourite spot and send it at “info@ipolizei.gr”.

www.ipolizei.gr/freeathens

▼ ▼ ▼ 4 INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT KERAMEIKOS Today, about 46% of the buildings in the area of Kerameikos are empty! Nevertheless, because of the rich architectural heritage and culture of the region, it is believed that the area has many chances to be transformed into a modern neighborhood without social exclusions.

Workmen, shopkeepers and craftsmen were the main inhabitants of Kerameikos in the late 1950s. The only “elite” of the region were doctors and dentists, useful for the needs of the residents.

After 2000, the hallmark of the area is not anymore the factories, but the recreation areas, which may be housed in former industrial facilities. Property prices go up and, gradually, populations such as Greeks Muslims or Roma are eliminated.

It’ s from 1990 that Kerameikos and the neighbourhoods around it start becoming popular in Bohemian, alternative artists, painters, writersand people of art. Even rich Greek people start seeking a different anD less crowded place to be and to create.

ΚERAMEIKOS “Kerameis” in greek means potters. The area Kerameikos took its name from those people who worked with their hands and created the famous in all over the world Attic vases-real masterpieces. Kerameikos, their settlement back to the centuries, is located to the northwest of the Acropolis and the whole area has undergone a number of archaeological excavations in recent years.

Kerameikos border from the east was the Agora and from the west, outside the wall, was the biggest and most important cemetery.

You can reach there through Ermou, Asomaton or Pireos Sreet. Except for the important Kerameikos Museum which is housed in a picturesque neoclassical building there, the area offers a variety of options for entertainment and not only.

From the metro Gazi you can easily reach to everywhere in Kerameikos on foot. The bars and restaurants close to the metro, in the “Tehcnopolis” area are more mainstream and “noisy”, that’ why young people are usually those who prefer them. But, walking a little deeper, to the more quiet streets, you are going to discover the more traditional aspect of the region. But, to be honest, not only traditional: graffitis, theatres, original, greek tavernas with homemade food, street artists and modern art houses, like galleries, or handmade jewellery shops are there and create, all together, the really special atmosphere of Kerameikos.

Do not expect menus in English or touristic corners. The area is an authentic face of downtown Athens, cosmopolitan and low budget in the same time.

Go there if you want to see some less classical but still fascinating museums, such as the Islamic Art Museum, the Art Space Asomaton and the Evonimos Ecological Library. One of our personal preferences, here, in “Free Athens”,are the Seminars in Mikro Polytechneio, a cozy multiplex full of inspiration and art.

Kerameikos meets Metaxourgio and Votanikos, and all together are the absolute mix and match of the city of Athens. Multicultural, with unlimited choices for things to do, to taste, to learn. How could it be different? Those neighbourhoods are located, like crossroads, between Plato’s Academy, the Akropolis and the roads leading to Piraeus.

pg 67

CLOTHING

CLOTHING

VERGETIS

SEPTEMBER

Vergetis Clothing has dressed men of all ages with high quality greek brands since 1968. Although housed in a historical building of 200 years old, Vergetis follows the latest fashion trends offering affordable clothes without sacrificing their quality. Find here your favourite outfit and create your timeless style!

400 m / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2

/ 10 Kolokotroni St. - Athens / t: +30 210 32 36 116 / www.vergetisclothing.gr / fb: Vergetis Clothing| Shop / insta: vergetisclothing

SHOES STORE

600 m / MONASTIRAKI ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 3

/ 16 Apollonos & 1 Patroou St. - Athens / t: +30 210 32 34 891 / fb: September

THE OPTICIANS

“El Greco” has been based in Athens since 1984, making handcrafted leather sandals that satisfy all female tastes without sacrificing your comfort. This greek brand combines sustainability with style, filling your sunny days with colour. Take a traditional souvenir that will remind you of your visit to Greece!

ISAP LINE 1

In the heart of Athens, there is a small shop with a happy mood, full of surprises by Greek designers - and not only. A colorful note in the grey cityspace, just like September in autumn. Clothes and accessories with a special character, that will touch even the most demanding amateurs of style.

VIEW THE WORLD THROUGH DIFFERENT EYES

EL GRECO

350 m / ANO PATISSIA

FREE ATHENS

/ 364 Patission St. - Athens / t: +30 210 20 23 635 / www.elgrecoshoes.com / fb: El Greco Handcrafted Leather Goods / insta: elgrecoshoes

The harsh glare of the Hawaiian sun is what inspired Maui Jim to design a lens that not only shields the eye, but also improves the colour, clarity, and dettail of the world around. Designed with your comfort in mind, the PolarizedPlus2® technology reduces the impact of the sun’s harsh glare while offering relief from a number of long-term health risks. With lens materials and colours for every condition, the view’s better from here!

400 m / SYNTAGMA METRO LINES 2, 3

/ 18 Valaoritou St. - Syntagma / t: +30 210 95 60 369 / https://theopticians.gr/ / fb: THEOPTICIANS.GR

Are you an Acropolis foot lover?

Prove it!

Send a photo of yours in the most spectacular spot at “info@ ipolizei.gr”.

www.ipolizei.gr/freeathens

“IN ACROPOLIS’ FEET”! (LITERALLY) Monastiraki, Plaka and Koukaki are Acropolis’ best friends. From special points of those neighbourhoods you can see the famous Athenian hill with Parthenon, shining like a rare stone in the night.

But, the value of those blocks does not only to have with the historical monument. Quality, smiley faces and a variety of choices have led those spots in the city to be the most famous not only for tourists and visitors, but also for Greeks and Athenians.

People who came to shop, to drink coffee or to eat the best souvlaki in Athens are exactly in front of your eyes. Ice cream and frozen yogurt shops, as well as fresh juice points, are always in fashion and offer a great break for the “hard walkers” of the city.

▼ ▼ ▼ TIPS FOR ACROPOLIS LOVERS If you are walking from the Plaka, near the end of Adrianou street you will come to a small square, every inch of which has been taken over by fancy tourist restaurants and cafes. Hurry through it until you come face to face with Hadrian’s wall. You can’t miss it.

Don’t lose the chance to see the famous Tower of the Winds in Plaka. This monument is located only a block up from Adrianou on Aeolou street and it is a part of the ancient Roman Agora. It was believed to be a place of great magic, but, in fact, it was a meteorological station from the first century, built by the Syrian Astronomer Andronikos Kyrrhestes.

In Koukaki, do not miss the chance to walk through Tsami Karatasou Street and admire the neoclassical mansions. One will surely stand out from the rest; it is the home of artist Margarita Theodorakis, daughter of Zorba the Greek composer, Mikis Theodorakis.

Monastiraki for ever!

Monastiraki means in greek the little church and is worldwide known for its flea market. It is a major tourist attraction in Athens for bargain shopping.

Enjoy the African parties in the square with their traditional instruments giving a rhythm in everyone’s steps. Enjoy, as well, the surprises! History is written here in every corner. Keep your eyes open, because this very history is more interesting than its museum edition.

Plaka, the Queen of Athens Stairs, cats, old, greek-style cafes, the best selfies ever and, above all, this light form the sky which fits so much with the white houses. Plaka was always synonymous with Athens by itself. Walk around the shops and tavernas, smell the pink and red flowers from the yards of the old Athenian who still live there and feel like you are in any greek island. Oh, this is happiness.

Koukaki, you, super star…

Creative, youthful and hippie Koukaki captures, and not without reason, the attention of all! Bars and restaurant masterpieces, small galleries and streets to walk like a hero of a romantic greek movie. Modern, but still traditional, this aristocratically minimal neighbourhood of Athens is maybe the reason why you fell in love with this city.

pg 69

HANDMADE SOUVENIRS

BOOKSTORE

Have you ever wondered what a “kompoloi” is? ‘’To Kompoloi Tou Psirri’’ reveals to you the folk neohellenic culture represented by this souvenir. Don’t neglect to take a look at the jewelry! This place hides a surprise too! Walk into the store holding our magazine and earn a 15% discount on all products!

In Amarillo Suave you can find your summer reading written in your mother language: Newspapers and a variety of books await you. For the lovers of the ancient greek writers, there are masterpieces translated in several languages and in modern greek, so you can get in touch with the contemporary greek language!

TO KOMPOLOI TOU PSIRRI

/ 13 Ag. Anargiron St. - Psirri / t: +30 210 32 43 012 / kobojewels.gr / fb: TO KOMPOLOI TOY PSIRRI

350 m / MONASTIRAKI ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 3

AMARILLO SUAVE

1.400 m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1 / BUSES 3, 608, 11

VINTAGE SHOP

MIMIS TAKIS

Like Yesterday’s is a perfect choice to buy presents for your friends and yourself, keeping the best souvenirs along with the pictures from your trip to Athens. Choose among clothes, accessories, faux bijoux and other small treasures that will surprise you, everything at reasonable prices! / 96-98 Dimitrakopoulou St. - Koukaki - 117 41 / t: +30 211 41 75 839 / insta: likeydays

260 m / MONASTIRAKI ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 3

450 m / SYGROU-FIX METRO LINE 2

/ 17 Lelas Karagianni St. - Athens / t: +30 210 86 71 466 / fb: Amarillo suave

JEWELLERY SHOP

LIKE YESTERDAY’S

/ 16 Protogenous St. - Athens - 105 54 / t: +30 216 70 04 810 / fb: likeyesterdays2ndhand

FREE ATHENS

Mimis Takis dresses you up with watches, as well as with gold and silver jewels. We have been repairing your watches and jewels since 1978. Our creative ideas take on flesh and blood through our handmade jewelry. Let us give you a little sparkle with our precious creations!

1500 m / VICTORIA ISAP LINE 1

/ 64 Fokionos Negri St. - Athens / t: +30 210 82 32 018

How much did your figure fit to Kolonaki?

Take a picture and send it at “info@ipolizei.gr”.

www.ipolizei.gr/freeathens

▼ ▼ ▼ The metro stop from Kolonaki, if you are not a real fan of walking, is Evangelismos. Kolonaki, by the way, means literally “the little column” named for the column once standing alone on the edge of town.But, for the origin of the name, there are many theories. Ask, search and choose your best!

Do not forget to have a look and a walk at Dexameni Square. Dexameni means cistern which is what the square sits upon. It used to be the water supply for THE WHOLE CITY and was actually built by the Emperor Hadrian.Awesome!

If your budget permits this to you, buy some fancy clothes and accessories from the shops in and around Kolonaki. “The last word of Fashion” is being told here for many years now.

KOLONAKI, THE KING OF ATHENIAN LUXURY Kolonaki is considered the most elegant, trendy and…posh neighborhood of Athens, with many high end boutiques, distinguished bars and chic restaurants. In this neighbourhood, old and historical one, people nowadays go to see and to be seen. Its cosmopolitan style and its place in the centre of Athens make it to be loved by many generations of people. Many museums, boutiques, cafes and restaurants invite Greek people and visitors from other countries to visit them. You are going for sure to observe the numerous foreign embassies, as well. The National Park on Irodou Attikou street is a real oasis during the summer and, in general, try to walk it. You can do it during the afternoon, when the sun is not so hot. Walking to Kolonaki takes about twenty minutes from Syntagma and a half hour from Plaka, while from the student district of Exarhia is less than ten minutes.

Oh, yes. A walk through the streets of Kolonaki, “the neighbourhood of poets and nobles” is absolutely worthwhile. Start off in Plateia Kolonaki and Plateia Dexameni, the main shopping street of Patriarchou Ioakim, and investigate the parallel streets up from it, such as Haritos, with its mixture of old neoclassical houses, upscale modern flats, and art galleries. If you are full of Athenian energy, you can climb to the top streets to reach the rim of Lykavettos and enjoy from there magnificent views of Athens, some of them including the Acropolis.

For the real downtown experience do not forget to make a stop at the Kolonaki Square, where locals enjoy their coffee, while talking to each other or to their...cell phones! Not many foreigners show up in these cafes, they are not touristic, so why not to try to mix up with the real Athenians? Lawyers, students, young models, famous actors and singers are there, between the nervous taxi drivers, the people who sell flowers in the streets, the old residents who buy their newspaper. Can you discover them, can you start a conversation with them?

pg 71

FREE ATHENS

NIGHT CLUB

BANANA ATHENS A hidden «island», placed on a historic road in the heart of the city, offers us unforgettable summer nights! Banana makes you feel like you are in an exotic place: four large bars in an open-air space, summer colors and a stone terrain that reminds us of the narrow streets of Greek islands. Open all week with a different party every night. Feel the summer breeze and see the dawn in Athens, dancing in Banana! / 1 Ardittou St. - Mets - Athens / t: +30 698 100 9190 / fb: Banana Athens / insta: banana_athens

433 m / ACROPOLIS METRO LINE 2

FAST FOOD RESTAURANT

ALL DAY COFFEE COCKTAIL BAR

Taste handmade meatballs, like Greek grannies use to cook! Unique combinations of flavours and aromas, triple-fried potatoes and different sauces made with extremely pure ingredients will break your nose. Relax and enjoy the moment by tasting the most beloved Greek dish in the right place!

The cozy ambience of Arbaroriza has colors, aromas and a special identity! Discover its innovative signature cocktails that combine Greek spirits with special flavors, as well as its food: breakfast, brunch and delicious comfort foods, such as delicious burgers and of course… the PFC (Pagkrati Fried Chicken)!

GRANNY’S MEATBALLS

1000 m / EVAGGELISMOS METRO LINE 3

/ 2 Plastira Square St. - Pagkrati / t: +30 210 75 68 717 / www.grannys-meatballs.gr / fb: Granny’s Meatballs

AΡΒΑROPIZA

1000 m / EVAGGELISMOS METRO LINE 3

/ 10 Plastira Square - Pagkrati - Athens / t: +30 210 70 19 530 / fb: Αρbarόριζα

If you are around the district on a Saturday, do not forget to visit Laiki Agora (Groceries Flee Market), in Kallidromiou Street that has a great variety of fruits and vegetables. Walk among the producers’ stalls and try some of the seasonal products.

Please, send us a photo at “info@ ipolizei.gr”.

www.ipolizei.gr/freeathens

▼ ▼ ▼ In this really particular neighbourhood, you can find bohemian shops, hidden courtyards and squares. Here you can explore street art, politically charged murals and some of the most unique shops in Athens.

The political culture of the region is really similar of the one in Kreuzberg, the famous, bohemian district of Berlin. Exarchia is a place where many intellectuals and artists live and where many socialist, anarchist, and antifascist groups are accommodated. Numerous graffitis and posters remind the character of the area. In December 2008, the murder of 15-year-old Alexandros Grigoropoulos by a policeman in Exarchia caused rioting throughout Greece.

Exarchia, has a large migrant and refugee community. The overcrowding and abuse within Greek refugee camps has propelled a movement of squatting within Athens and across Greece. There are more than a dozen squats in Athens, primarily centered in Exarchia, serving as housing, healthcare, and social centers for refugees, migrants, or anarchists. These squats provide space for highly diverse communities.

EXARCHIA Exarchia is one of Athens’ oldest neighbourhoods and full of life, mainly due to the presence of the nearby University of Athens and Polytechnio. Despite its youthful energy, it is not a touristy district, and the region has become associated with protests and anarchists.

If the centre of the capital and the areas around Syntagma Square were the hub of the country’s political and commercial life, Exarhia and Neapoli (New City) of Exarhia were the meeting points for the intellectual Athenians.

The name Exarchia was given from a resident who ran a grocery store at the junction of Themistokleous and Solomou streets, above the current Exarchia Square.

Starting from the main square, you can see the “blue building”, which is here from the early 1930s, as a significant part of the area’s history. Many famous people, politicians and artists have lived there through the years. As you continue from the square, walking through the back streets, you’ll find small restaurants and tavernas, alternative bars, vinyl record stores, cinemas, bookstores and everything else you can imagine!

Just a few minutes’ walk from the Square, you will encounter the amazing view of Athens from Strefi Hill — a very nice spot, where every summer, interesting events are hosted at the stone-paved open theatre at the hill. The closest museum to Exarhia is The National Archaeological Museum of Athens, the largest museum in Greece, which is housed in a neoclassical 19th-century building.

pg 73

FREE ATHENS

THAI RESTAURANT

THAI ZAB The Thai...verna of Athens is in the neighborhood of Kerameikos.

A thai restaurant that brings the authentic recipes of Thailand in the center of Athens is what you need for a good meal or dinner! Their goal is to travel us around the most delicious gastronomic delights of Thailand. Since 2018, Thai Zab is making a good impression around Athenians, because the hospitality of the place was combined with the innate hospitality of the Thai people.

From the moment you enter the simply decorated space with the exotic touches, you start wandering in the paths of traditional & modern Thai cuisine.

Thai Zab has everything you would want to find in an authentic Thai restaurant; colors, aromas and unique flavors that satisfy even the most demanding palates. In the role of creator are 5 chefs originated from Thailand, who bring to your plate classic, modern and world-famous Thai recipes with the freshest ingredients: larb, pad thai, spicy beef salad, fresh rolls are the most famous dishes, but you can choose your meal among a rich menu.

Surely, the friendly atmosphere of the Thai-verna will win you over and you will spend wonderful moments.

/ 22 Dekeleon St. - Athens / t: +30 211 11 15 486 / fb: Thai Zab - Authentic Thaiverna / insta: @thai.zab.athens 100 m. / KERAMEIKOS METRO LINE 3

THE MOST ANNOYING TYPES OF GREEKS

“Monastiraki” square is a great place to find adorable weirdos

THE “KRACHTIS”

and every other type of Athenian. Make a point of it to take at least one photo with every interesting being you meet. The entrance of the metro station (which is 120 years old) is a good spot.

Different crowds populate different areas. Try and notice 5 differences between the people you encounter at Syntagma square versus the legendary Exarchia neighborhood

(from the greek verb krazo: to shout) barker, person employed to solicit customers by calling out to passersby A high pitched voice and a lifelong tendency for exaggeration are the distinctive qualities of this breed of urban persona. Whether you meet them at their professional capacity in front of a tavern or you make their acquaintance by chance, you will immediately recognize their characteristic manner of speaking: a lot of adjectives combined with a lot of false information, built on cheap marketing techniques from the 80s. They can convince you that anything, from their favorite local cafe to some miraculous vitamins for hair loss is the solution to your lifelong existential struggle. Worst of all, they tend to advertise themselves with the same passion of a retired car dealer. Take their words with a grain of salt and pretend it’s part of the audiovisual background.

THE “HELLEN” (Ancient Greek: Έλλην, Hellēn, «bright») was the progenitor of the Hellenes (Έλληνες). His name is also another name for Greek.

This is usually a specimen that speaks foreign languages very approximately, but praises himself on his knowledge and devotion to all the aspects of greek tradition. In the few words he operates he can describe centuries of greek history, proving without a doubt how greeks invented everything there is to invent, including space travel and chinese dumplings. According to him, his beloved country is cheated and mistreated by everyone, including but not limited to politicians, immigrants, non- christians and small domestic animals. Their beliefs however can come from a good place, one of genuine national pride. Skip the simplistic interpretation and you may get invaluable info about the best hidden spots to visit, known only to locals.

THE MOST ANNOYING TYPES OF TOURISTS

There is no right or wrong way to explore the city. If you prefer a

THE SELFIE-ISH

big group, you are sure to have a smoother and more planned holiday. If you are lone wanderer you will discover some hidden treasures that no guide can describe.

The city is not a static scenery. It can show whatever you choose to see.

Looking for an unusual photo opportunity?

Choose a zebra crossing in the center and blend in the crowd. An all time favorite is between Voukourestiou and Panepistimiou streets.

This is the sticky type. Sticky in terms of auxiliary devices for commemorating the same smiling version of themselves against different backgrounds. Even when not armed with sticks, they are still dangerous. They perceive the world through the lens of a camera, with their worst nightmare being running out of battery. They do not live, they document the life around them.

Unfortunately, most of the time they miss the most juicy details, because they are slightly out of focus. Take care: these individuals rarely notice physical obstacles and moving objects, so be gentle and cautious. Lastly, don’t forget to photobomb their creations at every chance. At least, that way they will be some real life going on on the pictures.

THE PEDANT That’s the type of knowledgeable traveler you encounter in front of every long and obscure historical note in the museum. They have done their research and know how everything SHOULD work. If the timetables of the archeological site are slightly different from what was written in the tour guide, they make a point out of demonstrating it to every single person in their immediate reach. If by chance they weren’t able to visit every single landmark on their 5 page list, the whole trip wasn’t worth it. These scholarly fellows are good for getting precious historic data, so shadow them while sightseeing and then just wander off to live the really important experiences.

pg 75

ETHNIC STREET FOOD

BURGERS

Etnico challenges you to taste the world! A gastronomic journey to mexican, arab, indian and south-east asian cuisine, including choices such as tacos, fajitas, chimichangas, quesadillas, falafel and corean salad. The journey is continued with sweets, like mexican cake made of tortillas and chocolate, refreshing juices and drinks with herbs.

Don’t miss to try the special Margarita and the heady Sangria.

The ultimate place for the brave burger lovers. Start with traditional tastes like “hangover burger” and chicken nuggets.

Continue your burger journey with the “country burger”: mutton burger covered with feta cream. If you are looking for more sophisticated tastes, choose the “umami burger” with goat cheese and mayonnaise with truffle oil. Open every day except Mondays.

ETNICO

700 m / SYNTAGMA METRO LINES 2, 3

/ 22 Kolokotroni St. - Athens / t: +30 211 41 13 880 / www.etnico.gr / fb: Etnico / Alternative Street Cuisine / insta: etnicostreet

SUSHI RESTAURANT

MADAI SUSHI BAR A classy sushi restaurant that gives some european details to the oriental aesthetics. Madai Sushi Bar composes the purest homemade japanese dishes made with fresh fish gutted in their own kitchen. Homemade sauces, like ponzu and teriyaki, dress your signature menu choices. Vegan alternatives, that will definitely surprise you with their taste, are also available! Time for dessert: try the black bao bun and the mascarpone.

Indulge your desire for a premium homemade cocktail that you’ll find in the brand-new menu.

/ 17 Archelaou St. - Athens / t: +30 210 72 15 538 / fb: Madai sushi bar 700 m / EVANGELISMOS METRO LINE 3

FREE ATHENS

SERIAL GRILLERS

/ 130 Tralleon St. - Galatsi / t: +30 211 41 81 010

/ 4 Neotitos St. - Iraklio / t: +30 210 28 50 004

400 m / Irodotou station

210 m / Iraklio

BUS LINE 608

ISAP LINE 1

/ www.serial-grillers.gr / fb: Serial Grillers / insta: serialgrillers_umami

▼ ▼ ▼

▼ ▼ ▼

THE “BACK TO NATURE”:

THE “LIKE ATHENS, NOWHERE”:

The one who thinks city life is unhealthy and outdated, but if you sent him to the countryside, he is scared of the flies!

The real Athenian, the child of the city and its center, he even worships the trash on the pavements and snobs every other European city

▼ ▼ ▼ THE COFFEE GUY: Here in Greece, the coffee time can last forever. Don’t be surprised if you see the same person in a cafeteria from morning till night. He has nothing to do so he starts with coffee, ends with beer. Usually, he plays “tavli” MEANS (BACKGAMMON) for hours.

▼ ▼ ▼ THE PUBLIC TRANSPORT GUY:

▼ ▼ ▼

He respects the nature; he prefers to spend 3 hours per day in public transportation than take his car. Afraid of pollution, afraid of traffic, he knows the row of metro stations and bus lines by heart!

THE CAR LOVER: He goes everywhere by car, parks illegally, ignores traffic and anti-pollution settings of the center and has no idea of the city’s public transport.

▼ ▼ ▼ THE LAWYER: The most common profession in Greece is the lawyer. Always struggling with the Greek bureaucracy, you will see him with a portfolio, chasing papers drawn by the wind, making the route office - courts 20 times a day.

10 TYPES OF ATHENIANS ▼ ▼ ▼

▼ ▼ ▼

THE GPS:

THE UNDERGRADUATE STUDENT:

He knows every street in Athens by name, always ready to explain where to go, even if you are in the Center and you want to go to the beach. You will make his day if you approach him with a map!

Always happy, with many books in the bag, he goes to the university, but then you will see him in cafes and bar studying or chatting. He can do anything except for one thing: return home.

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THE “PROTEST” GUY:

THE GREEK LOVER:

As protests have become a habit in Athens, this guy will participate to every one of them. No matter the subject. Where you will find him? In Syntagma Square.

Famous all around the world, the Greek lover makes his appearance especially in Thissio and Monastiraki. Most of the times he is flirting in (bad) English language and is annoying. Sometimes, he is a good guy and maybe you will find true love!

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FREE ATHENS

EXHIBITION EUREKA: SCIENCE, ART & TECHNOLOGY OF ANCIENT GREEKS IN HERAKLEIDON MUSEUM The Herakleidon Museum, which has been described by the press as “the small - big miracle”, invites you to get acquainted with Ancient Greek Technology - a relatively unknown aspect of ancient Greek culture – in a short distance from the Acropolis of Athens.

The exhibition “EUREKA, Science, Art and Technology of the Ancient Greeks” is hosted in two beautiful urban buildings of the 19th century, in the middle of the route from the Acropolis to the Ancient Agora. The visitor can learn about the method of building the temples of the Acropolis, about the construction technology of the Ancient Theater, about unknown large works that are milestones in the course of the construction, such as the Eupaline Trench or the diolkos. You can see how the Antikythera mechanism worked, to admire the first robot in history, to travel to the time of the Persian wars and the trireme, but also to the first wonders of technology, the time before history, almost 4,000 years before our time.

Guided tours are available throughout the summer free of charge at the entrance fee, and upon request and appointment, family or group activities can be organized which may include exhibition-related board games or patterned canvas painting. * All measures are in place to prevent the spread of Covid-19: mandatory Building A 16 Herakleidon str.

Thissio, 118 51, Athens t: +30 210 34 61 981, f: +30 210 34 58 225 e: info@herakleidon-art.gr Building B 37 Apostolou Pavlou str.

Thissio, 118 51, Athens t: +30 211 012 6486 e: museum@herakleidon-art.gr

www.herakleidon.org

mask use, sampling thermometry, up to 8 people at the same time, frequent disinfection of premises, hand sanitizers everywhere, electronic transactions, possibility of online bookings and payments. * Hrekleidon Museum is located at 37, str. Apostolou Pavlou and 16, str.

Working hours: Wednesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00

Iraklidon. It is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. For more information or group activities, you can call at +30 210 3461981 ή send an email: info@herakleidon.org

The sweetest corner in Athens!

If you want to taste something sweet, Nancy’s sweethome is the place to be. Psyrri square smells like chocolate so you will definitely find the route you have to follow. After all, it is now a meeting point for Athenians. Nancy ‘s sweets stand out for their large portions and special taste. Chocolate pies, strawberry pies, oriental sweets are the best way to get to know the Greek treatment. Above all, you will have a good time, since the people of the sweethouse always welcome you with fun and a big smile.

Nancy’s Sweethome Iroon Square 1 & Karaiskaki str., Athens Τ: +30 210 32 11 323 Fb: @NancysSweetHome Ig: @to_sermpetospito_ths_nancy WWW.NANCYSWEETHOME.GR 300 m / MONASTIRAKI ISAP LINE 1 / METRO LINE 3

All Day Delicious Choice!

Brunch with oriental influence, handmade dishes with special flavors, made with the best ingredients.

When the night falls, Salute is there to make us have a good time with cocktails and drinks. It became the favorite hangout of the city. You will recognize it from the jazz notes heard under the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.

Scan for more!

19, str. Erechthiou, Koukaki, Athens | FB: SALUTE BISTRO | IG: @salutebistroath 550 m. from ACROPOLIS / METRO LINE 2