San Juan Skyway summer/fall 2016 by Deb Kees

SanJuan

Skyway VISITOR GUIDE Summer/Fall 2016

Dolores River Brewery

PURSUING BREWING ALCHEMY ANCIENT ARTS REINTERPRETED

Woodfired Pizzas, Sensational Salads, and the finest selection of Ales, Lagers, and Stouts.

Welcome to the flavors of the Southwest

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

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Contents

The Market at Telluride

FIR

COLORADO

ASPEN

PACIFIC OAK

Towns Along the Skyway

COLUMBIA

Station Village Parking

Station Mountain Village

Station St. Sophia

SAN JUAN Station Telluride Base

The Market at Mountain Village

Ridgway

14 Ouray

Silverton

Durango

Mancos

24-25 San Juan Skyway map and routes

Dolores

Cortez

Telluride

Visit Our New Telluride Location!

Mountain Village

157 South Fir (Pacific and Fir) Open 7am - 9pm daily â&#x20AC;˘ (970) 728-6500

Features 10

Rewarding Work Meet artists/award makers Lisa Issenberg and John Billings

16 Navigating the 4WD roads of the San Juans Seven Pro Tips for Off-Road Driving

18 The most notorious road in the West

History of the Million Dollar Highway

22 The six best high-country trails along the Skyway Take a Hike

28 Treetop flyers: falcons and fun-seekers Birds of a Feather

Piece by Piece Dolores Mountain Quilters stitch a community together

A Full-Service Conventional and Natural Foods Market

36 Ute Mountain Indians open first business off tribal lands Off the Reservation

40 Uniting growers and chefs for fine food Farm to Fork

42 Hot air ballooning in the San Juan Mountains Up, Up, and Away

48 Mountain biking mecca in Mountain Village Park and Ride

48 4

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

Upshot Twilight Timeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;photo by Kane Scheidegger

Spirits Open 11am - 9pm daily Mountain Village Town Hall Plaza

(970) 728-6500

Open 7am - 9pm daily 490 Sherman Street, Ridgway

(970) 626-5811

Open 7am - 9pm daily Mountain Village Town Hall Plaza

(970) 728-6500

SanJuan

Skyway VISITOR GUIDE

TELLURIDE PUBLISHING, LLC

SanJuan

Skyway ~

VISITOR GUIDE

ADVERTISING Jenny Page

the

Lupine Lady

~ EDITORIAL Deb Dion Kees ~ CREATIVE DIRECTOR Kristal Rhodes ~ DISTRIBUTION Telluride Delivers ~ WEB GURU Susan Hayse ~

OUR MISSION:

WHIT RICHARDSON

PHOTOGRAPHY Ryan Bonneau, John Clark, DATO, DeAnne Gallegos, Whit Richardson, Kane Scheidegger, Brett Schreckengost ~ The San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide is produced by Telluride Publishing. Telluride Publishing also produces Telluride Magazine For more information, visit telluridemagazine.com For advertising inquiries: advertising@telluridemagazine.com 970-729-0913 For editorial inquiries: editor@telluridemagazine.com 970-708-0060

RYAN BONNEAU

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

~ COVER PHOTO BY Ryan Bonneau

he Lupine Lady is a character in a children’s book, Miss Rumphius. Miss Rumphius earns her nickname after she returns home from traveling across the globe, and realizes she has yet to fulfill her vow to make the world a more beautiful place. So she loads up her pockets with lupine seeds and scatters them all over the countryside, and the next spring, voilá, the land is awash with the purple and blue blooms. Mission accomplished. The Lupine Lady is the perfect icon for the San Juan Skyway, and not just because the San Juan Mountains are dusted from peak to riverbed with the flowers, but also because there are so many people here that champion her cause. There are people all around the skyway that are working hard every day to make the world a more beautiful place. Take, for example, the artists here: from the industrious women quilters in Dolores (Piece by Piece, pp. 3233), to the Ute Indian potters and painters (Off the Reservation, p. 36), and the artists who craft awards (Rewarding Work, pp. 10-12), they are all using their talents to create beautiful pieces for people to enjoy.

The panoramic scenery along the San Juan Skyway is naturally picturesque, but there are lots of ways to facilitate your appreciation of it. Whether you are taking photos of—or taking off in—a hot air balloon (Up, Up, and Away, pp. 4243), speeding downhill on a mountain bike trail (Park and Ride, p. 48), zip lining above the canopy (Birds of a Feather, p. 28), off-roading (7 Pro Tips for Off-Road Driving, p. 16) or enjoying a high-country hike (Take a Hike, p. 22), you will be treated to some of the most stunning landscapes that nature has to offer. However you choose to take in the sights on your trip around the San Juan Skyway, whether it’s exploring the local artwork or adventuring in the outdoors, we hope that this visitor guide helps you discover the beauty in this corner of the world. Happy sojourn,

Deb Dion Kees

Editor, San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide

Saving Animals & Promoting the Human-Animal Bond. We have been uniting homeless pets with forever families since 1994. As a Non-Profit Animal Shelter & Resource Center we serve the counties of Ouray, San Miguel, Montrose and beyond.

Second Chance Animal Resource Center: 177 Cty Rd 10 - Ridgway Open Tues-Sun 11am-5 pm 970.626.2273

• Low Cost Spay/Neuter Clinics • Community Education & Outreach • Foster Ambassador Program • Dog for a Day/Cat for a Cuddle • Volunteer Programs • Individual & Group Tours of our Animal Resource Center

Thrift Stores in Downtown Telluride & Ridgway

355 W. Colorado • Telluride 970.728.1100 09 Sherman St • Ridgway 970.626.3233 a unique shopping experience for finding quality apparel, sporting goods, collectibles, jewelry & MORE!

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

KANE SCHEIDEGGER

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

AUGUST 13 & 27 FLY FISHING AT PA-CO-CHU-PUK BRIDGE Gear is provided at these fun events from 6–7 p.m. at Ridgway State Park.

MAY 14 LOVE YOUR VALLEY FESTIVAL The festival is from 1–6 p.m. and features micro brews, live music, and dog contests.

AUGUST 14 HUCK FINN DAY Fishing for kids 16+ is open 8:30–10:30 a.m. at Ridgway State Park.

MAY 14 ROCC PARKING LOT SALE Starting at 8 a.m., rummage through the treasures and score some deals at this signature annual event behind the Ridgway Library. MAY 20–21 SAN JUAN STRING FEST Two days of concert music at the Chipeta Solar Springs Resort. JUNE 11 RAT FESTIVAL Come support the Ridgway Area Trails at this fundraiser/ benefit for new mountain biking trails. JUNE 12 MOONWALK Celebrate the arts with these semi-regular evening events under the full moon—this event features a sculpture contest. JUNE 25 RIDGWAY RIVER FESTIVAL Annual river festival is held at Rollans park, with races, exhibitions, live music, food and drinks. JULY 7, 14, 21, 28 CONCERT SERIES Catch free, outdoor live music at Hartwell Park. AUGUST 6 MT. SNEFFELS MARATHON/ HALF-MARATHON Runners traverse the county roads back and forth from Ouray in this popular annual race. AUGUST 13–14 32ND ANNUAL RIDGWAY RENDEZVOUS ART FESTIVAL This art festival features arts, crafts, food, and music.

AUGUST 20 MOONWALK Celebrate the arts with these semi-regular evening events under the full moon— this event features farm-to-table dining. AUGUST 21 BOW WOW FILM FESTIVAL A movie festival devoted to our canine companions, held at the Sherbino Theatre and benefitting the Second Chance animal shelter. SEPTEMBER 5 THE AXEL PROJECT BICYCLE CLASSIC Ride round trip from Ridgway to Placerville or Telluride (48 or 80 miles) and support the organization that helps children get bikes. SEPTEMBER 5–7 RODEO IN RIDGWAY Ranch rodeo events on Sept. 5, and professional rodeo on Sept. 6–7 with the CPRA Roughstock events at the Ouray County Fairgrounds in Ridgway. The Labor Day rodeo parade is followed by a barbecue in the park. SEPTEMBER 10 RIDGWAY CHAMBER GOLF SCRAMBLE It’s tee time at the Divide Ranch & Golf Course. SEPTEMBER 24–25 MT. SNEFFELS FIBER FESTIVAL Workshops, classes, and exhibitions of fiberwork. Arts and crafts and more are for sale at this fun annual event. OCTOBER 20 PLEIN AIR Art in the park, painted in the outdoors and for sale.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

JOHN I. CLARK

Ridgway EVEN HOLLYWOOD TOOK NOTE OF RIDGWAY’S SPECTACULAR WESTERN SCENERY AND CHARACTER, SETTING THE ORIGINAL FILM TRUE GRIT HERE DECADES AGO. Ridgway is the northernmost entry to the San Juan Skyway and is known as the Gateway to the San Juans. Its beautifully manicured town park hosts music concerts, arts festivals, and a farmers market and its county fairgrounds is home to a great professional rodeo that caps off the summer. Ridgway has a sprawling reservoir with camping and its tributary the Uncompahgre River, with all sorts of watersports opportunities, boating, SUP, tubing, fishing, and waterskiing. The community is a hub for artists and craftsmen, with lots of galleries and outdoor sculpture, and the

F O R W H AT T O D O , P L A C E S T O P L AY, W H E R E T O S TAY A N D L O C A L D I G S , V I S I T:

Ridgway Railroad Museum pays tribute to the town’s advent as a transportation hub,

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headquarters of the Rio Grande Southern narrow gauge railroad serving miners, ranchers and farmers in the 1800s.

JOHN I. CLARK

MAY–AUGUST RIDGWAY FARMERS MARKET Get your fresh, local produce, baked goods, crafts and other items from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. ever Friday at Hartwell Park.

RIDGWAY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE • UNITED COUNTRY SNEFFELS REALTY • TIMBER CREEK GALLERY • THE MACDOCTOR THE STOCK EXCHANGE GIFTS & GALLERY • TRUE GRIT CAFE • CAFE RIDGWAY A LA MODE• CRAZY B’S SMOKESHOP • ART BY THE PARK GALLERY • WHOLENESS BODYWORK & MASSAGE • SAN JUAN BALLOON • SECOND CHANCE THRIFT SHOP • RIDGWAY LODGE & SUITES

REWARDING WORK

TWO RIDGWAY ARTISTS SHARE A BUILDING AND A PASSION

he building at 609 Clinton Street is weathered, and the wooden floorboards creak when people pass over them. From the outside, the structure looks more historical than industrial, but when you step inside there is a faint smell of machinery and metal in the air, and also a little bit of creative magic.

Upstairs, artist Lisa Issenberg of Kiitellä is busy polishing metal in her studio, and in the basement workshop, artist John Billings stands among a tall pile of boxes ready to be shipped. They each have their own business, but they share something in common besides the building and working as artists: They both make awards. Kiitellä creates custom awards for the outdoor industry—from national skiing events including the U.S. Alpine Championships, the Audi Birds of Prey World Cups, U.S. Freeskiing & Snowboarding National Championships, and a host of other outdoor events, to non-profits such as American Alpine Club, American Mountain Guides Association, American Avalanche Association, and American Mountaineering Museum, to outdoor product manufacturers prAna, The North Face, and Marmot, to donor recognition walls and many local organizations where she got her introduction to the award-making business—her first award commission was for Telluride Mountainfilm in 1994. Issenberg custom designs each piece, and fabricates using both industrial and hand techniques. The main material is metal—steel, brass, or bronze—and often incorporates other materials. Because they are handcrafted, each piece is slightly different, or “delightfully imperfect,” says Issenberg. “I’m so thankful the Japanese have an official term for this: wabi-sabi.” Billings, on the other hand, creates the Grammy awards, and his task is producing flawless copies of the signature gramophone design. Each Grammy has to be an exact replica. To reproduce the design, he had to create a bronze mold and casts with a special

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

molten zinc alloy. He produces the John R. Wooden and Annie Awards in the same way. “I’ve always been a tinker,” says Billings modestly. “I really have never considered myself an artist, I’m more of a craftsman. I’m actually a master mold-maker, so most of my life has been spent re-interpreting other people’s work.”

Issenberg and Billings each came to the artists’ haven of Ridgway, one of Colorado’s Creative Districts, and each fell into the same specialty, creating awards, but they took very different paths toward the same end. Issenberg first developed an interest in jewelry making during her study-abroad program in Greece in her junior

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

Ouray Victorian Inn

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“THERE ARE MORE THAN 300 WAYS TO DESIGN A BOTTLE. FOR ME IT MADE THE DESIGN PROCESS MUCH RICHER, KNOWING THAT THERE WAS ALWAYS A BETTER DESIGN THAT WOULD SURFACE IF I JUST KEPT WORKING AT IT.”

year of college at Tufts; upon returning she dove into the disciplines of all metals—from small jewelry to large steel pieces. She moved to Telluride and Ophir in the early 90s and set up a jewelry studio and a steel shop, and her jewelry was picked up by Telluride Gallery of Fine Art. Issenberg spent all of her free time playing in the mountains and establishing a love of the outdoors and the environment that would inform all of her work, including her iconic Telluride trash and recycling receptacles. She continued her studies at San Francisco State, and eventually got her master’s degree in Industrial Design at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, NY. Pratt was

a revelatory experience, in particular one of her assignments to come up with 300 different designs for a bottle. “Even though I’m not in the industrial design world, it taught me that there’s no one design or single answer for any project,” says Issenberg. “There are more than 300 ways to design a bottle. For me it made the design process much richer, knowing that there was always a better design that would surface if I just kept working at it.” Billings started building models as a kid, and developed an interest in casting when he started making silver and turquoise jewelry. But his schooling revolved around a different type of mold-making—he went to dental school and learned how to make teeth—until his career took a sharp turn. He started as an apprentice to his neighbor, the original maker of the Grammy, and he took over the business when his mentor passed away in 1983. The Grammy Awards are his biggest contract, but his business seems to attract a host of obscure and high profile jobs: reproducing the original light fixtures from the Titanic for the eponymous movie, restoring an air race trophy that belonged to Amelia Earhart which had been shattered into a thousand pieces, molding the duck hood ornaments from the movie Convoy, making Bob Dylan’s lifetime achievement award. When Jack Nicholson handed his award to Bob Dylan, Billings was watching, and he was moved to tears. “I’ve done some really really cool things—I actually held one of

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

the pieces that was from the Titanic—but I’m mostly invisible. They don’t march me on the stage; I’m in the audience. But I’m cool with that.” Issenberg has designed a lot of objets d’art throughout her career, from benches to railings to kiosks and trash receptacles, all with her signature look: functional pieces inspired by modern design and nature. But of all the projects she worked on, the awards were her favorite; and she gravitated toward this new specialty and founded Kiitellä, the Finnish word meaning to thank, applaud, praise. Her client list went from local to national and tripled in size, but more importantly she found the synthesis of her passion for the outdoors and nature and her art. “This is where my heart is…it feels right. Someone is being honored for their accomplishments or philanthropy, and you are a part of that appreciation through your art.” That gratification is what keeps both artists engaged, Issenberg with her mask on as she fires up the welder, grinds, polishes, stamps, rivets, and Billings pouring his molten metal alloys into casts. “My studio is practically a dungeon,” laughs Billings. “It’s not glamorous work when you’re grinding and casting and working. But we’re not making widgets. When people are being recognized for something, being part of that is really special. It’s very fulfilling.”

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS

MAY 28 NEW WEST GUITAR GROUP The New West Guitar Group performs at the Wright Opera House.

JULY 23 & AUGUST 20 CEMETERY TOUR Join the Ouray County Historical Museum archivist on a walking tour of the Cedar Hill Cemetery.

JUNE 2, 9, 16, 23 & 30 MOUNTAIN AIR MUSIC SERIES Every Thursday from 6–9 p.m. enjoy free, live outdoor music by the Hot Springs Pool at Fellin Park.

AUGUST 2 EVENINGS OF HISTORY Don Paulson speaks about Albert Reynolds, Hubbard Reed, and the history of the Revenue Mine at the Wright Opera House.

JUNE 19 BICYCLE TOUR OF COLORADO Welcome the cyclists in Fellin Park.

AUGUST 3, 5 & 6 SAN JUAN CHAMBER MUSICFEST Chamber music at the Ouray County 4H Event Center on Aug. 3, and at the Wright Opera House on Aug. 5–6, presented by the Ouray County Performing Arts Guild.

JUNE 21 HISTORY OF OURAY HIKES Local guidebook author Kelvin Kent gives an overview of the hiking trails in Ouray County at the Wright Opera House. JUNE 21 WILD WEST GHOSTS Mark and Kim Todd give a talk about the ghosts of hotels in the San Juans at the Wright Opera House. JULY 2 ARCHITECTURAL TOUR Five historical buildings in Ouray will be open for tour, with docents at each location to answer questions in this Ouray County Museum event. JULY 2 MAGIC SHOW The Amazing Eli the Magician performs at the Wright Opera House. JULY 3 FIRE DEPARTMENT CONCERT Live music by Tight Thump and dancing and drinks at this fundraiser for the local fire department at Fellin Park. JULY 4 OLD FASHIONED CELEBRATION Enjoy the Fourth of July in Ouray, starting with the Ourayce 10k, a parade, kids games, water fights, a concert by Fictionist at Fellin Park, a jeep light parade at dusk and fireworks after dark. JULY 5 EVENINGS OF HISTORY Dr. Jim Kornberg presents a look at medicine in Ouray in the 19th century in his talk, “The Trials and Tribulations of Doc Rowan,” at the Wright Opera House.

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AUGUST 17–19, AUGUST 29–SEPTEMBER 6 QUILT SHOW The Ouray County Historical Society showcases quilts created prior to 1960. AUGUST 19–20 OURAY FORK FEST A culinary celebration featuring a farmer’s market, a restaurant crawl, cooking classes, and a farm-to-table dinner. JULY 30–AUGUST 9 56TH ANNUAL ALPINE ARTIST HOLIDAY Celebrate the arts with this longstanding event and summer tradition at the Ouray Community Center. AUGUST 13 MT. SNEFFELS 1/2 & MARATHON RUN/WALK Runners traverse the country roads back and forth from Ouray in this popular annual race. AUGUST 10–14 OURAY CANYONEERING FESTIVAL Under the big tent in Fellin Park, this rendezvous includes canyon trips, gear display and demos, raffles, and presentations. AUGUST 15 MOUNTAIN AIR MUSIC Nothing says “summer” like this brew and music festival: barbecue, craft beers, and live music, all held at the Fellin Park next to the Hot Springs Pool.

JULY 8–10, 15–17 SHAKESPEARE “NO HOLDS BARD” Local repertory theatre performs fun, interactive shows: Romeo and Juliet and Taming of the Shrew.

AUGUST 20–30 HIGHGRADERS HOLIDAY MINING COMPETITION & HERITAGE WEEKEND – Celebrate the region’s mining history and watch the hardrock competitions at the Ouray Hot Springs Park.

JULY 12 EVENINGS OF HISTORY Larry Moore presents the history of the Cornforth Family of Ouray’s Oak Street at the Wright Opera House.

SEPTEMBER 6–7 OURAY COUNTY RODEO – A professional rodeo (CPRA), county fair, and ranching events are held at the Ouray

Continually Flowing Natural Hot Springs, Vapor Cave, Outdoor Pool and Private Lorelei.

JULY 19 EVENINGS OF HISTORY Craig Jackman hosts the discussion of the early history of Colona at the Wright Opera House.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

OuRaY WHEN YOU DRIVE INTO OURAY YOU MAY WONDER WHERE YOU TOOK A WRONG TURN AND HOW YOU ENDED UP IN THE EUROPEAN ALPS. From Ouray’s incredible Uncompahgre Gorge (which is famous for its manmade ice climbing park in winter) to the pristine and beautiful mountains in which it is encircled, as well as its quaint Victorian architecture, old-fashioned shops, and historic main drag and museum, the town has a distinctly alpine feel. Ouray has all kinds of recreational opportunities, such as hiking, running, camping, jeeping, river sports, and mountaineering; whatever you do, don’t miss the Perimeter Trail, which

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offers a stunning view of the Cascade Falls and the gorge. After you recreate, relax by visiting one of Ouray’s geothermal treats, hot springs, a pool, or vapor caves.

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MAY 12–14 SPIRIT FEST Multi-day event featuring poetry, meditation, yoga, dance; opens with a Taize worship service on Thursday and closes with a Dance of Universal Peace.

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Ride with the Best, Colorado West...

PRO TIPS FOR

Off-Road Driving SURVIVING THE 4X4 ROADS IN THE SAN JUANS

Tours Startin g at $45

Ask Ab out Our

Outlaw Mounta in C Great F ookout ood & F

There are plenty of professional tour drivers who can guide you on an off-road adventure. But if you’ve got the gumption to take the wheel yourself, here are a few tips for staying safe from Ken Garard, a driver from Colorado West Jeep Tours and Rentals in Ouray: READ THE TERRAIN Elevate your gaze and watch for when the trail dips beyond the horizon. Scout the trail and see which rocks you want your tires to be on (and which ones you don’t). “The trails change based on the time of the year, weather, snow other drivers. Have a healthy respect for it. You can’t afford to be complacent about looking over the trails. Passing situations on a narrow steep road is where a fair amount of accidents happen,” says Garard.

PICK THE RIGHT GEAR Most of the hard trails require 4WD low, which puts the engine through another set of gears before it reaches the wheels. This helps you drive slower with increased torque at the wheels. First gear for crawling over rocks, but a higher gear for momentum on soft or sandy soil or deep, sticky mud. “The low range slows the engine speed down so the tires can go at a consistent rate. 4WD is important because of the steepness and elevation. It’s really important to use the low ranges going downhill, otherwise you’re going to be riding your brakes, and they’ll overheat and become ineffective. When I see someone’s brake lights on, I know they don’t know what’s going on.”

BRING TOOLS IN CASE YOU GET STUCK Sometimes you can use just a shovel, a floor mat or stack rocks in holes to help get un-stuck, but for more serious situations you’ll need a 2-inch wide tow strap with fabric loops. (Never wrap the strap around an axle or bumper.) In case there’s no one to pull you out, you

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

might consider buying an electric winch rated for your vehicle. “I’ve been able to get myself out, but everyone gets stuck. Off in a ditch, most of the time, but I’ve seen vehicles hanging off the side of the road by their frame. Use common sense—the uphill vehicle has the right of way, but you don’t want to put somebody 2 or 3 inches from the drop-off.”

CHECK YOUR TIRE PRESSURE Lower tire pressure helps to increase traction, allowing the tread and sidewall to adhere better to the obstacles on the trail—but not too low, or you risk the tire popping off the rim and getting a flat or having too little clearance. “Don’t lower your tire too much. You’re actually bulging the tire out and could puncture the sidewall. If you’re not reading the road or trying to avoid sharp rocks, you’ll have a lot of flats. You need to make sure your spare tire is in good shape and your jack works. If you get a flat, block the wheels and put rocks under the axel so that if the jack fails, the car won’t fall on you!”

MORE TRACTION Drivers instinctively hit the throttle when they lose traction. Instead, back off the gas and saw back and forth on the steering wheel, keeping your thumbs outside the steering wheel in case it kicks suddenly when you encounter an obstacle. “The idea is to keep the wheels moving, but slowly. If you come to a stop it’s going to be hard to get going. If you do stop, you’re going to have to go backwards…which seems to scare people,” laughs Garard.

CROSSING STREAMS Check the depth before you decide to cross the water—and know the fording depth of your vehicle. Shallow water could have a dip or ledge and be deeper than you think, and you don’t want to flood your interior or hydrolock your engine. “I prefer to watch somebody go through it first, where they go and how deep it is. It’s a little bit unnerving because the force of the water can move you. But If you have good clearance and a snorkel …. Just don’t try to cross it in a motorcycle.”

CLEARANCE It’s not just ground clearance you need when driving off-road—you’ll also need to have a clear picture of the approach and departure angles (how high your front and rear bumpers are) and the break-over angle, which tells you how high of an obstacle you can clear without getting high-centered. “Know your vehicle. People do get hung up on rocks. It’s important to know your clearance—your bell housing on your differentials. That’s where you’re going to hit something. I always look underneath the vehicle.” Drivers should also be prepared with a first aid kit, extra water, and rain gear, advises Garard. But the easiest way to see the high country in a 4x4 vehicle is to let someone else do the driving, so you can focus on the scenery and not on the road. Garard has been driving these old roads his whole life, and professionally for the last seven years—and he says it’s a labor of love. “Every day, every trip is different. It’s the prettiest country in the world. I don’t ever get bored,” says Garard. “It beats sitting at a desk.”

un!

Ryan Bonneau

here are hundreds of miles of road in the San Juan Mountains, and not just the paved kind. The legacy left behind from decades of mining for gold, silver, lead, zinc and other minerals is a treasure of a different type: a network of old jeep roads, just passable enough for 4X4 vehicles, just rugged enough to keep it exciting, and with a panorama that is spectacular enough to make your jaw drop.

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Go Behind the Scenes! Let your journey begin with Colorado West as we take you away from your busy schedule. Explore the San Juan passes with our professional and knowledgeable guides who will share fascinating facts on the history, culture, geology, flora, fauna, and all that surrounds you on your exceptional adventure. Private or semi-private tours available. If you are feeling adventurous, and want to go it alone, grab one of our trail maps, hop in one of our 2016 Jeep rentals, and explore all that Ouray and the San Juans have to offer. See the ghost towns, the spring and early summer waterfalls, or visit us later to see the wildlife, fields of flowers, or even the fall colors on the ever-changing aspens.

Your Memories Begin with Colorado West. Located in the heart of Ouray, corner of 7th & Main

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History of the Million Dollar Highway

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Where you matter.

OTTO MEARS

he Million Dollar Highway, the 23-mile stretch of the San Juan Skyway between Silverton and Ouray, is breathtaking in all senses of the word. Some consider it the most beautiful, scenic drive in the world, and others consider it the scariest road they’ve ever navigated. They’re both right. The extreme mountain terrain makes for an unbelievably gorgeous backdrop, but it also makes a very precipitous place for a highway. People often ask why there are so few guardrails, but the narrow shoulders of unstable rock and the volume of snow that needs to be plowed make guardrails impossible. Avalanches, ice, and rockslides are common hazards on this stretch of highway—but it’s much safer now than it was during its humble beginnings. Before 1884, the only routes in or out of Silverton were dangerous, narrow pack trails or by train, but the mining boom created a need in the region for roads. Enter the enterprising Russian immigrant Otto Mears, who helped build the original toll road spanning the formidable Red Mountain Pass and connecting the towns of Ouray and Silverton. The San Juan Wagon Road was its original name, and the section from Ouray to Red Mountain Pass was constructed in 1883. The next year, with the help of 350+ workers, the section from Red Mountain Pass to Silverton was completed. What had once been a rugged pack trail could now accommodate wagons—for a price. The tolls were 35 cents for each pack animal, up to $5 for a team and wagon (the equivalent of $122 in modern times), and ultimately the county of Ouray purchased the road from Mears, but for much less than the “Million Dollar” nickname it has been given. The highway was significantly upgraded between 1919 and 1924, and again in 1954 when it was widened to include shoulders. In 1999 the Bear Creek Tunnel was reconstructed, and in 2014, the Colorado Department of Transportation spent weeks mitigating the huge rockfall event that caused the highway’s temporary closure. Some 2,200 vehicles navigate the hairpin turns and the sheer drop-offs on the Million Dollar Highway every day—if you’re one of them, stay safe and enjoy the ride of a lifetime.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

In the heart of Ouray, surrounded by spectacular views of the beautiful San Juan Mountains. King and queen size pillow top mattresses Flat screen TVs Complimentary breakfast

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

MAY 22 BAR D DINNER The Silverton Chamber of Commerce hosts this annual fundraiser dinner, and announces the Citizen of the Year. MAY 28 IRON HORSE BICYCLE CLASSIC Cyclists race the train from Durango to Silverton in this annual bike race. JUNE 18 CEMETERY WORK DAY Locals pitch in to spiff up the beautiful local cemetery. JUNE 25 TASTE OF SILVERTON BLOCK PARTY AND STREET DANCE Revelry takes to the streets in Silverton, with music, food and drink at this annual party. JUNE 25 ANTIQUE TRUCK SHOW Check out these beautiful vehicles at the parade and on display on Blair Street. JULY 4 FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION AND FIREWORKS Local festivities kick off with a Blue Ribbon fun run/walk, then roll into a parade, a Fire Department’s water fight, the International Rhubarb Festival, a Silverton Brass Band Concert, a Ducky Derby, a theatre matinee, and a fireworks display after dark. JULY 15-17 HARDROCK HUNDRED ENDURANCE RUN Perhaps the most grueling of any mountain trail race, the Hardrock Hundred starts and finishes in Silverton and traverses the San Juan Mountains. JULY 23 SILVERTON MOUNTAIN RUN AND K2 DOUBLE Race up Kendall Mountain once—or twice—at this popular mountain endurance run, starting at 12th and Greene Streets and finishing in Memorial Park. AUGUST 6 SILVERTON BARBERSHOP MUSIC FESTIVAL Enjoy the quaint sound of barbershop music at the Silverton gym. AUGUST 6–7 MOUNTAIN MAN SOFTBALL TOURNAMENT Ball players convene at the ball field at the Visitors Center for this annual tourney.

AUGUST 14–20 SILVERTON 1,000 MULTI-DAY RUNS Mountain endurance runners race for 24 hours, 48 hours, 72 hours, six days, or 100 or 1,000 miles, starting at the Kendall Mountain Recreation Area. AUGUST 19–21 42ND ANNUAL HARDROCKERS HOLIDAYS This event celebrates the town’s mining history with drilling contests and a tug-of-war. AUGUST 19–21 GREAT WESTERN ROCKY MOUNTAIN BRASS BAND FESTIVAL Delight in these special, old-fashioned concerts featuring musicians from all over the country at the Silverton School gym.

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AUGUST 19–22 TRUE WEST RAILFEST Celebrate the special narrow gauge railroad with events in Silverton and Durango. AUGUST 22 SILVERTON ALPINE MARATHON & 50K A unique, high alpine course marks these running races, which start and finish at Memorial Park. AUGUST 27 DILLON’S RUN Participants race to see how many laps they can complete on a one-mile trail loop in this fundraiser at Kendall Mountain Recreation Area. SEPTEMBER 2–3 SILVERTON COLORFEST QUILT SHOW AND SALE Check out the local fabric artistry at the Silverton School gym. SEPTEMBER 16–17 STEP BACK IN TIME Relive the Victorian era and learn about Silverton’s history with a Miner’s Ball, a Murder Mystery Dinner, a cemetery tour, and an ice cream social at this San Juan County Historical Society event. SEPTEMBER 24 SILVERTON DOUBLE DIRTY 30 Runners compete in this new event, a 100 kilometer race.

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Silverton SILVERTON IS THE BEST-KEPT SECRET IN THE SAN JUANS. The tiny, historic town only has about 400 residents, and they like it that way—they have miles and miles of ruggedly beautiful mountains as their private playground, with great jeeping, hiking, biking, trail running, mountaineering and river running in their own backyard. There are beautiful Victorian buildings to explore, including the notorious Blair Street establishments, mining tours and gold-panning, music, and theatre. Silverton is also home to the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, where visitors arriving on the first train each summer are treated to locals dressed in

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Victorian-era costumes and the old-time sounds of a brass band.

SEPTEMBER 24-25 FALL PHOTOGRAPHERS WEEKEND Photographers shoot the beautiful fall landscapes at this event, hosted by the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. OCTOBER 29 LAST TRAIN The last summer train ride from Durango to Silverton heralds the coming of winter.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

COURTESY DATO

MAY 7 TRAIN’S FIRST DAY The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad makes its first trip of the summer.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

Take a Hike

SERIOUS GEAR FOR SERIOUS PEOPLE SMITH & JULBO KUHL KLOTHING

THE TOP SIX TRAILS ALONG THE SAN JUAN SKYWAY

THE NORTH FACE

iking is not just good for the body and the mind, it’s also good for the soul. And there’s no better soul food than the divine trails along the San Juan Skyway, full of incredible alpine scenery, mountain lakes and rivers, and sandstone desert landscapes. While the views are beautiful on the highway, the experience is even more special once you’re off the asphalt and on the trails. It takes a little effort, but so does anything worthwhile; and if you’re up for an adventure, here are the top six hikes in the region.

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Highland Mary Lakes

4-7.8 miles (round trip) The trailhead sits at Cunningham Gulch near Silverton, and the path winds upward steeply to a series of lakes and meadows in the Weminuche Wilderness, some of the most beautiful backcountry in the San Juan Mountains. It’s possible to extend the distance by catching the Continental Divide Trail above the lakes, or just do the out and back length.

Horsethief Trail to Bridge of Heaven

8 miles (round trip) This is a challenging hike with 3,000 feet of elevation gain, but the reward is the “heavenly” views from the top. Accessed from the town of Ouray, you’ll need 4WD to cross the Dexter Creek and climb the rough road to the trailhead parking, and once you’re on the trail it’s not much easier, as the trail ascends sharply on a knife-edge ridge.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

Sneffels Highline Sharkstooth Pass

6.6 miles (round trip) Access the trailhead from Mancos by driving up County Road 42 to Forest Road 561, then start climbing the switchbacks to get a great view of Hesperus and the La Plata Mountains. The trail is an out and back, and you can even scramble up to the top of Sharkstooth Peak.

Lizard Head

11.7 miles (round trip) The trail head is at the top of Lizard Head Pass and there is ample parking right along the San Juan Skyway. The loop hike traverses the spine of Blackface Mountain and climbs to the base of the iconic spire, said to resemble the head of a lizard.

12.7 miles (round trip) This is a very strenuous loop hike with plenty of climbing, and it crosses a high alpine saddle between two beautiful basins. Late season is best for the wildflowers, and ski poles or trekking poles are recommended for the downhill section. The trailhead is accessed from the west side of the Jud Wiebe trail in Telluride.

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Perimeter Trail

4.2 miles (round trip) This is one of the most unique hikes in the region, and it’s easily accessed from the town of Ouray. There is some moderate climbing, and the views are terrific, but the most spectacular part of the trail is at the Box Cañon bridge, where the Uncompahgre River tumbles madly through a towering gorge. After the bridge, hikers duck their heads and walk through an old mining tunnel.

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

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Unaweep/Tabeguache Scenic and Historic Byway

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Uncompahgre National Forest

Dallas Divide 8,970 ft.

Uncompahgre National Forest

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8 Miles

Mount Wilson 14,246 ft.

San Juan National Forest

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

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Lemon Reservoir

Hot Springs

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Dolores

Trail of the 491 Ancients

Durango Mountain Resort

San Juan Skyway

Vallecito Reservoir

Mancos

Cortez

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Colorado Welcome Center

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Mesa Verde National Park

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U.S. HIGHWAY 550 From Ridgway, the byway turns south onto US 550 following the Uncompahgre River into the Victorian mining town of Ouray. From Ouray south back to Durango, the highway is referred to as the Million Dollar Highway, not for its priceless beauty but for the extreme costs of its initial construction. The first 7.0 miles (11.3 km) south of Ouray, the byway follows through the Uncompahgre Gorge. Just past the only tunnel on the route, just south of Ouray, the road

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STATE HIGHWAY 145 At Cortez, the byway turns north following State Highway 145 (SH 145) through the town of Dolores and follows the Dolores River into the San Juan National Forest. The byway passes through the small town of Rico, county seat of Dolores County prior to 1941; the old courthouse still remains. From Rico, the byway crosses 10,222 ft (3116 m) Lizard Head Pass and enters the Uncompahgre National Forest. Lizard Head Pass provides views of the 14,159-foot (4,316 m) El Diente Peak, the 14,246-foot (4,342 m) Mount Wilson, the 14,017-foot (4,272 m) Wilson Peak and the pass’s namesake, the 13,113-foot (3,997 m) Lizard Head Peak. The byway descends near the little town of Ophir past the location of the famous Ophir Loop of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. A spur road heads off to the old mining town turned ski resort of Telluride. The

STATE HIGHWAY 62 The byway turns east at Placerville onto SH 62 and follows it over Dallas Divide. There are many excellent views of the San Juan Mountains, especially of the mountains around the 14,150-foot (4,310 m) Mount Sneffels. From top of the divide the byway descends into the town of Ridgway. The entire route of the byway from Durango to Ridgway roughly follows the route of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad.

crosses over Bear Creek Falls on a bridge at the location of an impassable toll booth on the original road. The Alpine Loop National Back Country Byway, a fourwheel-drive jeep road takes off in the gorge south of Bear Creek Falls. Before leaving the gorge, the byway passes through a snow shed under the Riverside Slide avalanche zone. A monument stands near here honoring those who have lost their lives in the avalanche, including several snowplow operators. At this point the byway enters Ironton Park, a nice flat valley in contrast to the gorge. The road ascends several switchbacks, or S-curves, past the Idarado mining operation to the 11,018-foot (3,358 m) summit of Red Mountain Pass, providing views of Red Mountain (Colorado) and several ghost towns. Back into the San Juan National Forest, the highway descends through the Chattanooga Valley to Silverton. From Silverton, the byway passes over the 10,910-foot (3,330 m) Molas Pass and the 10,640foot (3,240 m) Coal Bank Pass descending past the ski resort of Durango Mountain. From Hermosa, the road parallels the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad before returning to Durango.

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Christ of the Mines Shrine

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Mountain Village

Ouray

Telluride Telluride Ski Area

Uncompahgre National Forest

Groundhog Reservoir

byway follows the San Miguel River down to the little town of Placerville.

Ouray Hot Springs

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he San Juan Skyway is the ultimate road trip. Along its breathtaking 236-mile loop are vibrant alpine communities, historic landmarks, Mesa Verde National Park, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, wild rivers, pristine waterfalls and lakes, high-elevation passes and the gorgeous, jagged San Juan Mountain Range for which it is named.

U.S. HIGHWAY 160 Starting in Durango, Colorado, the largest city on San Juan Skyway, the byway follows U.S. Highway 160 (US 160) west through the town of Mancos to Cortez passing the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park.

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2015

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

MAY 15 TASTE OF DURANGO Sample the best from Durango’s many restaurants and listen to live music on Main Avenue in downtown Durango. MAY 28–30 IRON HORSE BICYCLE CLASSIC Bicycles race the narrow gauge train from Durango to Silverton in this annual event, which also includes a criterion in Durango. JUNE 4 ANIMAS RIVER DAYS Celebrate the Animas River with fun events, including a parade, dog contest, river races, and more. JUNE 3–4 DURANGO BLUES TRAIN This exclusive ‘moving’ musical experience features seven live blues acts, while passengers travel on The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad’s coal-fired, steam-powered locomotive. JUNE 18–19, 25–26 DINOSAUR TRAIN Based on the hit PBS series for kids, Jim Henson’s Dinosaur Train at the D&SNGR features Buddy the T. rex, and fossil dig sites, dinosaur tracking, face painting, and temporary tattoos. JUNE 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, & JULY 6, 13, 20 TRUE WEST PRO RODEO Watch a professional rodeo at the La Plata County Fairgrounds. JULY 4 INDEPENDENCE DAY IN DURANGO Come join in the fun for all of Durango’s 4th of July events, starting with a breakfast, a 5k run at Rotary Park, and a floating river parade, and ending with a street dance and Stars and Stripes parade on Main Avenue and fireworks at dusk. JULY 8–10 GEM AND MINERAL SHOW Located at the La Plata County Fairgrounds, the gem and mineral show features kids’ activities, a silent auction, raffle, mineral displays, and about 40 vendors.

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JULY 23–31 FIESTA DAYS Celebrate the region’s Spanish history and cowboy heritage with rodeos, a parade, and other activities.

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AUGUST 10–14 LA PLATA COUNTY FAIR Enjoy this classic county fair at the La Plata County Fairgrounds. AUGUST 21-22 DURANGO BLUES TRAIN This exclusive ‘moving’ musical experience features seven live blues acts, while passengers travel on The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad’s coal-fired, steam-powered locomotive.

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AUGUST 27 SAN JUAN BREWFEST Durango is known as the “City of Brewery Love” and the “Napa Valley of Beer,” and you can find out why with a food and beer tasting on Main Avenue. AUGUST 27 THIRSTY THIRTEEN HALF MARATHON The race starts at the Hesperus church and follows a mostly downhill course to Ska Brewing, just in time for the San Juan Brewfest.

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Durango JUAN SKYWAY’S VERSION OF A METROPOLIS—THERE ARE

SEPTEMBER 17–18 DURANGO AUTUMN ARTS FESTIVAL Select artists share their work at the outdoor fine arts and craft show.

COLORADO, SO THERE ARE PLENTY OF BUSINESSES AND

SEPTEMBER 29–OCTOBER 2 DURANGO COWBOY POETRY GATHERING A celebration of the culture and heritage of the American cowboy with performances by poets and musicians.

and lots of great hiking, biking and mountaineering. There are all kinds of unique

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

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SEPTEMBER 1–4 FOUR CORNERS BIKE RALLY Experience the Four Corners, some of the best motorcycle riding in the world.

OCTOBER 8–9 DURANGO DOUBLE MARATHON Runners from the region compete in the double marathon, the half marathon and/or a trail run, in support of the Women’s Resource Center.

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EVEN A FEW TRAFFIC LIGHTS ON ITS MAIN CORRIDOR—AND TOWN IS THE MAIN POPULATION CENTER OF SOUTHWESTERN NIGHTLIFE IN THE DOWNTOWN AREA. But the town is also a hub for outdoor recreation, with the Animas River, local lakes,

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experiences you can have in Durango, from the interactive Durango Discovery Museum, to a trip on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, a day of zip lining or a paintball fight, to an old-fashioned shootout at the quick draw competition each year. Durango is the perfect mix of Old West and New West culture.

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MAY 6 NARROW GAUGE DAY Known locally as “hot dog” day, this event celebrates the start of the Durango–Silverton summer service route on the train; the first train of the season makes its inaugural run on May 7.

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TREETOP FLYERS: FALCONS AND FUN SEEKERS

n 1976, there were only five nesting pairs of Peregrine falcons left in Colorado when state officials undertook an ambitious program to reintroduce the birds. Falconers incubated eggs and installed “hack boxes,” wooden crates on steep cliffs where the young birds were protected and provided with food until they could survive on their own. One of the cliffs was Perins Peak, and Peregrine falcons regularly return to their special aerie in Durango. Perins Peak is the backdrop for another type of flight: zip-lining at Full Blast Adventures. The company has been operating for seven years, and their canopy tours offer guests the same sensation of flying above the tree tops that Peregrine falcons and other birds take for granted. Owner Cameron Winters says he loves being able to share the experience with his clients. “You have a bird’s eye view of the world when you’re up in the tree tops. It’s a cool feeling. It’s literally a sense of flying, and it’s exhilarating.” It is the sense of kinship with the falcons, which are occasionally visible from the canopy tours, that led Winters to adopt the birds as the Full Blast mascot. “When you’re zipping, sometimes falcons fly right by the zip line towers. It’s a success story of restoring an endangered species, and every theme park needs a mascot. We’re putting the falcons on our t-shirts.” Full Blast offers two tours, the 2-hour Ponderosa tour and the extended Ponderosa Grande tour, which offers another option to the intrepid treetop flyers: the freefall. Guests can either complete the loop above the canopy, which is akin to flying, or they can opt for the freefall or “jump stop,” a precipitous drop from 50 feet that starts out fast but ends in a gentle descent and landing. It’s an extra thrill that is also similar to the way Peregrine falcons behave. The falcons reach faster speeds than any other animal when performing

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

“YOU HAVE A BIRD’S EYE VIEW OF THE WORLD WHEN YOU’RE UP IN THE TREE TOPS. IT’S A COOL FEELING. IT’S LITERALLY A SENSE OF FLYING, AND IT’S EXHILARATING.”

the “stoop,” soaring to high altitudes and then diving steeply at speeds of more than 200 mph as they attack their prey, then slowing down to gently land. The birds are specially adapted for these dives—the air pres-

sure is so great it could damage their lungs, but their noses have bony tubercles to guide the airflow away, and their eyes have third eyelids called “nictitating membranes” to keep them moist and free of debris so they can see their prey. It is the birds’ propensity for hunting, their athleticism, and their amiable disposition that have made them so useful and such good partners to falconers. Peregrine falcons have been used in falconry for more than 3,000 years. Full Blast’s relationship with the birds is much more recent. Winters originally leased the land for ATV tours, but a decade ago, he looked skyward and had the idea for zip-lining, before the sport had achieved such widespread popularity. He had a consultant come and look at the property, and was told that it was indeed perfect for the sport. It took two years to build the course, he says, but it was a success from the first day they opened, and he’s never looked back. The most gratifying part of operating the tours, according to Winters, is watching the guests who are scared of heights when they set out become comfortable with the sensation and end up having the experience of a lifetime. “It’s fun to see somebody’s face after they do the first zip. We feed off their adrenaline,” he says. “It becomes this unforgettable thing, and we get a lot of repeat clients, mostly families. Building memories with your family—that’s what it’s all about.”

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS

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JUNE 25 MANCOS HALF MARATHON/5K/FUN RUN Runners meet at Boyle/ Wayside Park for this event, which is sponsored by the Mancos Project, a running club and training center.

MAY 28–29 INDIAN ARTS & CULTURE FESTIVAL The communities of Cortez, Dolores, Mancos, and Towaoc and their partners at Mesa Verde National Park celebrate the 15th Annual Mesa Verde Country Indian Arts & Culture Festival. Visitors are invited to explore the area’s cultural and archeological features.

JULY 30–AUGUST 6 MONTEZUMA COUNTY FAIR Enjoy this classic 4H county fair with livestock auctions, food, arts and crafts at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds.

JUNE MANCOS GALLERY & STUDIO TOUR Experience the blossoming Mancos arts scene and meet the artists as they host open studios throughout June. JUNE 2–SEPTEMBER 29 MANCOS FARMERS MARKET Mancos hosts a farmers market every Thursday evening, 4:30-6:30 p.m. at Boyle Park. Live music, crafts, and lots of local producers and growers vending fresh food items.

JULY 29–31 MANCOS DAYS Mancos Days features family fun, parades, softball, music, and great food.

AUGUST 13 MANCOS BEER FESTIVAL Sample the local brews and food and listen to live music at this summer festival. SEPTEMBER 23–25 MANCOS VALLEY-MESA VERDE COUNTRY BALLOON & ARTS FESTIVAL Watch hot air balloons float in the sky and enjoy art from all over the region. The balloons ascend as a group, are tethered for balloon rides, and set aglow at night for viewing. The Arts Festival features food and local vendors. This is the 12th annual event, and is held at Boyle Park.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

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MaNcos IT IS EASY TO SEE WHY THE PROLIFIC WESTERN AUTHOR LOUIS L’AMOUR CHOSE THE MANCOS AREA AS HIS HOME AND AS THE SETTING FOR HIS BOOKS. The Mancos Valley continues a 140-year tradition as the center of ranching at the

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

PIECE BY PIECE

The History of Quilting

Every month, the Dolores Mountain Quilters, with over 100 members, meets to handle business. In between these meetings they separate into smaller groups, quilting bees, to fashion their artwork. They work alone at home and they work communally, sharing ideas, planning their patterns, and even working together on special projects—charity quilts for people in nursing homes, or the Child Advocacy Center in Cortez for abused children, or people whose homes have been lost to fire, and even Christmas stockings for foster kids. “Most of us had grandmothers who quilted, but our mothers didn’t,” says Sheryl Merritt, a member of Dolores Mountain Quilters. “Our mothers sewed clothes, and many of us sewed clothes, but now it’s so much easier to buy them. So this is just a way to keep our hands on fabric, to make things, and be creative.” The fabric work they create is meaningful. Some quilts are called “friendship quilts,” when they are made by a group of people. Quilts are often made for weddings or new babies or anniversaries. A quilt can bring people closer, as when a mother pieces together the squares of fabric that she and her child have picked out. Every quilt has a story, and Merritt says that’s what gets shared when members bring their quilts to show the group. “Seeing the quilts is interesting, but the stories behind them— why they were made—is the fascinating part. Because there’s always a story.”

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

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1800–1835

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Mid 1800s and Civil War

For the first colonists in America, quilts were strictly utilitarian. Quilts were used not just for beds, but to hang in front of doors and windows to keep out the cold. When there was little money, it was a matter of thrift—saving pieces from worn blankets and clothing and repurposing them as patchwork or filler for quilts.

QUILTING TOGETHER A COMMUNITY

ife can be pretty busy, and it seems like almost nobody takes the time to do anything the old-fashioned way anymore, by hand. The same way women used to sew patches of fabric, piecing together beautiful quilts that became heirlooms to be passed down from generation to generation. Almost nobody...but the tradition the tradition of quilting is alive and well, at least in Dolores.

•

During this era, fine fabrics were imported from England and the emerging cloth industry supplied affordable, washable cottons, igniting a new creative type of quilting. Patchwork started to become a popular, with such patterns as Nine-Patch, Irish Chain, Pinwheel, Sawtooth Star and Flying Geese. Quilting became more elaborate, and some work from this era is preserved in museums. Whole cloth quilts, broderie perse and medallion quilts were popular styles of quilts made during this time, as was the applique quilt, where pieces are applied to the top of a whole cloth, often using fine needlework. Like any longstanding tradition, the craft of quilting is evolving. There are new trends: “art quilts” that are not made with a pattern, each creation being one of a kind. They can be inspired by photos or objects, and often the quilter dyes their own fabrics, and adds embellishments like beading or stencils or bleached areas. “A lot of art quilt artists come from drawing and painting backgrounds rather than sewing,” says Merritt. “Fabric has become their new medium, instead of canvas. It looks more like a piece of modern art.” Another trend, says Merritt, is the “modern quilts.” They are characterized by having a lot of white or light, pale backgrounds, and they generally aren’t made from repeated blocks. The stitching is angular, with clean lines; straight lines and grids rather than the swirled, feathery stitching. The quilters are not just making fabric art. They’re also making friends during the retreats and the quilting bees. They talk about their kids, or husbands, or dogs, or gardening, says Merritt. The same way women have been sitting together for generations, talking about the same kinds of things, while their hands are busy. They spend quality time together, and they are connecting more than the pieces of fabric. “You really get to know people. We develop friendships through our common interest.” Merritt says the craftwork doesn’t just connect her to her community of quilters, it also connects her to the future. She has been a shop owner, a schoolteacher, and managed her family’s hotel/restaurant, but now she’s something even more special: a grandmother. “I love fabric, and it’s a way to be creative and to keep my hands sewing. And it’s a way to pass things on to another generation, something lasting they can remember me by.”

It was customary for young women of this era to make a baker’s dozen of quilt tops before she was engaged to be married—typically 12 pieced or patchwork tops, and one applique top for her bridal bed. Once she was engaged, she would finish the tops into quilts, often with a group of friends. These bees were a part of the social structure: all of the stages of a woman’s life, from girlhood, to marriage, to raising children, and even death, were shared with the women of her community over the quilting frame.

The advent of the sewing machine, first operated by a foot treadle or hand crank and much later by electricity, made the work easier, although hand quilting was still preferred. When the Civil War began and the men left to fight, the women gathered together to comfort each other and to mobilize to make bedding, clothes, and bandages for soldiers.

• •

Late 1800s

As the frontier moved westward, and towns and settlements were established, quilting became more of an art form than just a necessity. This was when the Victorian “crazy quilt” became popular, using delicate fabrics, ribbons, and embroidered messages.

Early 1900s

The U.S. became more industrialized, with everything from washing machines to telephones, but still quilting remained popular. Quilts from this era often had scalloped edges and pastel colors, as opposed to the earlier style of bold colors and straight lines. During the Great Depression, quilts went back to becoming a matter of thrift, saving pieces of material from old blankets, worn clothing, and even feed sacks to create the blankets. During the 50s and 60s, quilting fell out of favor as it came to be associated with economic hardship, and essentially the craft “skipped” a generation.

•

1960s to Modern Era

In the late 60s and the subsequent decades, the interest in quilt-making was revived by the granddaughters of the older women. The fabrics of these early years were cheaper, often polyester, and in bright, loud, and kitschy colors, but in the 70s and 80s, pretty cotton fabrics emerged along with the renewed interest in quilting spawned in part by the Bicentennial Celebrations of 1776. Rotary cutters and plastic templates further evolved quilting, and in the 90s, quilts were hung on walls and treated as art. Source: “Listening to Herstory,” Texas Tech University

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

MAY 11–15 UTE MOUNTAIN-MESA VERDE BIRDING FESTIVAL Spring migrants and early nesters attract birdwatchers from across the nation to the Birding Festival. Located in the Archaeological Center of America, many of the field trips visit spectacular areas such as Mesa Verde National Park and Ute Tribal Park. Workshops, an art show, and a special dinner speaker round out the events at the festival. MAY 28–29 INDIAN ARTS & CULTURE FESTIVAL The communities of Cortez, Dolores, Mancos, and Towaoc and their partners at Mesa Verde National Park celebrate the 16th Annual Mesa Verde Country Indian Arts & Culture Festival. Visitors are invited to “Celebrate Our Song” and the area’s cultural and archeological features are showcased. JUNE 1–OCTOBER 26 DOLORES FARMERS MARKET Get fresh food and meet your local growers and ranchers every Wednesday from 4–7 p.m. at Flanders Park. JUNE 11 DOLORES RIVER FESTIVAL Listen to great music outdoors, participate in river events, free raft rides, and the river dog contest, and sample the food and craft from vendor booths at the Joe Rowell River Park in Dolores. JULY 4 DOLORES TOWN FOOD AND FIREWORKS Celebrate Independence Day in Dolores.

JULY 30–AUGUST 6 MONTEZUMA COUNTY FAIR Enjoy this classic 4H county fair with livestock auctions, food, arts and crafts at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. AUGUST 12–14 40TH ANNUAL ESCALANTE DAYS Escalante Days features parades, booths for vendors, a Kiwanis Club duck race, the Rotary Club mountain bike race, chainsaw and arm wrestling competitions, live music featuring ten great bands, food, arts and crafts, Galloping Goose Days activities and more for the whole family at Flanders Park.

dolores DOLORES HAS A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING THAT MAKES A

AUGUST 13 ESCALANTE DAYS MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE Ride Boggy Draw in this 18th annual bike race and stay for the fun at Flanders Park.

WESTERN TOWN GREAT: HISTORY, CULTURE AND OUTDOOR

AUGUST 26–27 QUILT SHOW Dolores Mountain Quilters hosts this biennial event, a quilt show at the Dolores Community Center featuring more than 100 quilts, and the public gets to pick the winner. There is also a boutique selling handmade gifts and items, and vendors offering fabric, patterns, and sewing machines. Raffle tickets will be sold for the grand prize, a gorgeous king-sized quilt “98 Stars.”

largest body of water in the state), and other water sports on the local lakes and rivers.

OCTOBER 13 HARVEST FESTIVAL Harvest Fest is a fun outdoor fall event, featuring local foods, produce, crafts, music, and fun.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

RECREATION. There is incredible fishing, boating, and waterskiing on McPhee Reservoir (the second

Hiking, camping and mountain biking abound in the surrounding San Juan National Forest. The Anasazi Heritage Center is a fun, interactive museum devoted to the history of the ancient cultures of Pueblo, Ute, and Navajo Native Americans, and has two 12th century pueblo ruins on site. Dolores has an exact replica of an original train depot and a Rio Grande Southern Railroad Museum and a restored Galloping Goose car. Escalante Days is the region’s celebration of its historic Dolores River Valleys, where the Dominguez-Escalante expedition camped in 1776 and mapped and logged the first record of the lands and people in what would become Colorado and Utah.

CABINS & HORSES

OFF THE

Reservation UTE MOUNTAIN UTE TRIBE OPENS FIRST BUSINESS OFF TRIBAL LAND

t started as an off-hand comment to the former owners of the Mesa Verde pottery studio on U.S. 160, Scott and Jay Tipton. They were selling the building, which was no longer operating, and members of the Ute Mountain Tribe said, “What if we bought it?” There was already another interested buyer, but the Tiptons were keen on keeping the location as a pottery studio and art gallery, so they sold it to the tribe instead. The building had been home to a unique type of business, where the potters and the painters could be viewed through a glass wall. Native American artists were employed, the traditional craftwork was kept alive, and tourists got to watch the creative process in real life. The Ute Mountain Utes are keeping that business model alive, and they’ve also added a museum with exhibits about tribal history and even a tasting room with local

Guy Drew Vineyard wines. The Ute Mountain Indian Trading Company and Museum is now more than just a trading post and pottery studio with a glass wall for viewing—it’s a full cultural experience for visitors. Tawnie Knight is the economic development specialist for the tribe, and she says that since they combined the businesses, the artists have all learned the various styles. It used to be mostly Navajo artists, she explains, but now there are Ute artists, and they are sharing their techniques and traditions. Some of the painters have been painting for 30 years. There is a huge variety of work on display, from the traditional Ute pottery with its signature black and white design, to the high-end hand coil pottery, to Native American jewelry, kachina dolls, woven rugs, and all kinds of

craftwork from the Four Corners region. “Before we set up everything, it was so blank,” says Knight. “Now it’s so colorful and alive. It’s been going really great.” The trading company and museum is the first time the tribe ventured outside of the reservation to open a business, but the gamble has paid off. Knight says that in just the single summer that the gallery and studio has been open, they doubled the revenue that they used to make in a whole year at the old Ute Mountain Pottery location tucked away on the reservation. The tribe has just 2,200 registered members for its expansive 587,000 acres of reservation land, but it is the biggest single employer in Montezuma County. This new venture is only raising the profile of the tribe in the region, allowing them to share their culture not just with the local population, but also with the steady stream of visitors who pass through the high-traffic corridor as they explore other historically significant sites like Mesa Verde, Hovenweep, and Canyon of the Ancients. More than that, the trading company and museum is source of esteem for the members of the tribe. “The members are so proud, and so happy, that the tribe owns it now,” says Knight.

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Legend of the Sleeping Ute Mountain A tremendous battle between the Great Warrior God and the Evil Ones followed. As they stepped hard upon the earth and braced themselves to fight, their feet pushed the land into mountains and valleys. This is how the country of this region came to be as it is today. The Great Warrior God was hurt, so he lay down

to rest and fell into a deep sleep. The blood from his wound turned into living water for all creatures to drink. When the fog or clouds settle over the Sleeping Warrior God, it is a sign that he is changing his blankets for the four seasons. When the Indians see the light green blanket over their “God,” they know it is spring. The dark green blanket is summer, the yellow

and red one is fall, and the white one is winter. The Indians believe that when the clouds gather on the highest peak, the Warrior God is pleased with his people and is letting rain clouds slip from his pockets. They also believe that the Great Warrior God will rise again to help them in the fight against their enemies.

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

MAY 7 12 HOURS OF MESA VERDE MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE Mountain bikers compete in this popular annual team relay endurance race at Phil’s World in Cortez. MAY 11–15 UTE MOUNTAIN-MESA VERDE BIRDING FESTIVAL Spring migrants and early nesters attract birdwatchers from across the nation to the Birding Festival. Located in the Archaeological Center of America, many of the field trips visit spectacular areas such as Mesa Verde National Park and Ute Tribal Park. Workshops, an art show, and a special dinner speaker round out the events at the festival. MAY 27–JULY 30 NATIVE AMERICAN DANCES Special performances at the Cortez Cultural Center, at 7 p.m. on the plaza every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. MAY 28–29 INDIAN ARTS & CULTURE FESTIVAL The communities of Cortez, Dolores, Mancos, and Towaoc and their partners at Mesa Verde National Park celebrate the 15th Annual Mesa Verde Country Indian Arts & Culture Festival. Visitors are invited to explore the area’s cultural and archeological features. JUNE 8–12 RODEO CARNIVAL Festivities kick off with a Rodeo Chuckwagon Supper in Cortez City Park and the carnival is at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds.

JUNE 9–11 86TH ANNUAL UTE MOUNTAIN ROUNDUP The Ute Mountain Roundup is a rodeo that started after World War I, and today is sanctioned by the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association. The rodeo features all the classic roping, barrel racing, bronc busting, and bull riding events, and is accompanied by a county fair held at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. JULY 4 CORTEZ BURST TRIATHLON AND ROTARY FIREWORKS Catch the action at this Independence Day triathlon and the fireworks display at Centennial Park. JULY 30–AUGUST 6 MONTEZUMA COUNTY FAIR Enjoy this classic 4H county fair with livestock auctions, food, arts and crafts at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. AUGUST 5–7 CORTEZ RENDEZVOUS HOT AIR BALLOON RALLY Watch the hot air balloons launch from the Parque de Vida and fly over the landscape. AUGUST 13 GEORGE GEER MEMORIAL CAR SHOW A classic car exhibition with local food, vendors, and music at Centennial Park. AUGUST 25 MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK FOUNDER’S DAY Come and celebrate the 100th anniversary of our national park system at Mesa Verde. SEPTEMBER 10 18TH ANNUAL HARVEST BEER FESTIVAL Enjoy the great fall food and taste craft beers at the Parque de Vida.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

cortez CORTEZ IS THE MOST ANCIENT STOP YOU’LL MAKE ON THE SAN JUAN SKYWAY TOUR—MONTEZUMA COUNTY HAS BEEN SETTLED SINCE AROUND A.D. 600 WHEN APPROXIMATELY 100,000 PUEBLO INDIANS MADE THIS AREA THEIR HOME. Today you can explore the archaeology of the first settlers as well as the arts and culture that still bears their imprint. Cortez also has great networks of mountain biking trails, hiking trails and terrific fishing. The cowboy culture from more recent eras is still alive and well, and you can experience it firsthand at the Ute Mountain Roundup Rodeo, the 86th annual event and a professionally sanctioned rodeo. The region also offers agritourism opportunities, where you can see dryland beans such as the unique old cultivar Anasazi bean or visit some of the lovely modern wineries in the McElmo Canyon and Montezuma Valley.

Farm to Fork

The Farm Bistro

UNITING GROWERS AND CHEFS FOR FINE FOOD

here has been a food revolution over the past decade—people are more connected to their food sources, and consumers want fresh, organic, locally grown, and sustainably harvested products. Eating used to be about convenience and affordability, but there’s been a paradigm shift, and now discerning diners expect a quality, farm-to-table experience.

Laurie and Rusty Hall, the owners of The Farm Bistro in Cortez, embraced the trend back in 2009, when it was just starting to take root. They own a 70acre organic farm twelve miles from downtown Cortez, and they had a surplus of vegetables, so they started out delivering salads to town. This blossomed into a storefront restaurant that grew so popular the couple had to move to a bigger location. “When we moved to this location, with more space and more clients, we couldn’t grow all the produce ourselves…so now we buy from about 25 different farms and ranches in Montezuma and Dolores Counties,” says Laurie Hall. Most farmers aren’t fortunate enough to have their own storefront. The Halls were a part of an agricultural roundtable, a group of growers in the region who would meet to discuss issues. Local farmers and ranchers agreed, says Hall, that their biggest challenge was distribution and marketing. How could they move their organic vegetables, grass-fed meats, and handmade cheeses from the farm to someone’s fork? Ironically, the growers were not the only people in the food industry with a big challenge. Chefs also had a problem: finding and ordering fresh food from local farms and ranches takes a lot of precious time. Most restaurateurs used to order all their food from one or two national distributors; a couple of phone calls, and the ordering was done. But the big national distributors don’t sell local goods. “One of the big barriers chefs have always faced is that they don’t have time to make 15 phone calls to find out who has organic carrots or whatever specific thing they need,” says Hall. And so they hatched an idea, and the Southwest Farm Fresh Cooperative was born. The coop acts as the middle man, representing 18 regional organic producers and handling their marketing and distribution to wholesalers such as hospitals, schools, and especially restaurants. For chefs, the coop is one-stop shopping: They make a single call, ask for what they need, and it gets delivered to their back door. It is brilliantly simple, and the coop has been wildly successful at uniting the growers and chefs. Brandon Shubert is the chef and owner at Stonefish Sushi, one of the most popular restaurants in Cortez, and the winner of the “Best Restaurant” and “Best Chef” award from Montezuma County Readers Choice for five years running. Shubert is a culinary school graduate who ran food and beverage systems on a huge scale, at Mesa Verde and Lake Powell, but he wanted to simplify life and raise his family here in the mountains, so in 2010 he opened his own restaurant. There are lots of great dining options for fine food in Cortez, so he decided to do something different: sushi. “I picked sushi because there wasn’t any here,

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

and because it’s an inherently beautiful food,” says Shubert. “It’s not too difficult to make great sushi, as long as you find good quality fish and take care of it.” Shubert uses a few different purveyors to be able to fly fresh fish into the region, and he is diligent about keeping his operation sustainable. He is constantly checking the Monterey Bay Seafood Watch list, he says. “We want to make sure we’re not using anything on the endangered list, which is a moving target.” Shubert already spends a lot of time sourcing his fish, so when it comes to fresh produce and meat, he is glad to have the Southwest Farm Fresh Coop as a resource. “We use the coop a lot, and in the summer 95% of our produce is local. They’ve streamlined the process—they give me a call and send out an email list of what’s available. It’s really nice, and there are so many great farms around.” The coop distilled the whole “buying local” concept, and word has spread beyond just the row of fine restaurants in Cortez—now they deliver all around the San Juan Skyway, to Dolores, Mancos, and even Telluride. The service has been so successful that the group held a fundraiser this spring so that they can buy a bigger truck. “The response has been fantastic,” says Hall. “Between all those towns, there are enough restaurants with chefs that cook from scratch. They had to be convinced at first that the food was the right quality and the service was reliable—and it was. It has really worked out for everyone.”

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Up, Up,

and Away HOT AIR BALLOONING AROUND THE SKYWAY

lying in the mountains is different than hot air ballooning across flat land. Even though the air is invisible, if you could see it, it would look a lot like water. And similarly to the way water interacts with varying terrain, swirling or “eddying,” currents rising and falling, so too does the wind when it travels across the rugged mountain landscape. So experienced pilots fly only in the very early hours after dawn, when the winds are still light and the passengers in the basket below the hot air balloon can enjoy a safe voyage. “Early in the morning, the winds are gentle and predictable,” says Gary Woods, the owner of San Juan Balloon Adventures and a longtime balloon pilot. “It’s a gentle adventure. We’re not riding the rapids.” For most passengers, it’s an experience of a lifetime. It is sort of the opposite of the adrenaline rush of skydiving or bungee jumping—instead of falling out of the sky, you are floating aloft. There’s no steering wheel, so the only controls the pilot has are a valve and hot air to let the balloon go up or down, and the wind carries the balloon in whatever direction it’s going. Skilled pilots can read the winds and make small adjustments to the altitude to shift direction, but basically, the balloon is beholden to the sky.

A few passengers have a different kind of experience. Decades ago, Gary Woods was the sponsor of a balloon at a rally, and he was invited to take a flight with the pilot. He says it took about 30 seconds of that inaugural 10-minute flight for it to kick in, that obsession with the sport that inhabits certain people. “I was so captivated, I bought a balloon and started taking lessons immediately.” Woods was indoctrinated into a tribe of enthusiasts, people who travel all across the country to balloon rallies, with crews of people to help them with the task of setting up and inflating the balloon and deflating and de-rigging it after the flights. They haul the baskets and the balloons, which can made up of 3,000 yards of fabric and weigh close to 1,000 pounds. But for the intrepid people who are fascinated by the sport of ballooning, the wanderlust comes naturally. Woods was the founder and producer of the Ridgway Balloon Festival, and was the “balloonmeister” of the Telluride Balloon Festival in 89-90, but he has participated in balloon rallies all over the San Juan Skyway and beyond: the invitation-only event in Monument Valley, Lake Powell, Phoenix, Gallup Red Rock Rally, and the world’s biggest ballooning event, the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta. He still travels to a lot of events in the fall and winter, but since he operates the commercial business out of Ridgway, he spends his summer sharing that special feeling he gets from flying with his passengers. “Everyone should at least see one of these festivals. They’re really special, so scenic, so photogenic. The pictures just don’t do it justice.”

CHECK OUT SOME OF THESE HOT AIR BALLOONING EVENTS ALONG THE SAN JUAN SKYWAY: TELLURIDE BALLOON FESTIVAL Telluride Main Street & Valley Floor June 3–5, 2016

CORTEZ HOT AIR BALLOON RALLY Parque de Vida July 31–August 2, 2016

MANCOS BALLOON FEST Downtown Mancos, Boyle Park September 26–28, 2016

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Over the Ridgway Valley

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SNOWDOWN BALLOON RALLY Durango February 1–5, 2017

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

San Juan Balloon Adventures (970) 626 5495 • www.sanjuanballoon.com

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

JUNE 3–5 TELLURIDE BALLOON FESTIVAL Watch hot air balloons soar above the San Miguel Valley or stroll past them, tethered and aglow on main street during the early evening. JUNE 16–19 TELLURIDE BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL This year marks the 43rd annual festival, one of the country’s most renowned bluegrass music events, held during the weekend of the summer solstice. This year’s lineup includes John Prine, Dave Rawlings Machine, Emmylou Harris, Ryan Adams, Greensky Bluegrass, Punch Brothers, Leftover Salmon, and more. JUNE 23–26 TELLURIDE WINE FESTIVAL The festival features four days of fine wines, seminars, tastings, winemakers’ luncheons, and cooking demonstrations. JUNE 28–JULY 4 TELLURIDE PLEIN AIR FESTIVAL Landscape artists from across the country come to paint the region’s vistas; plein air painting is done outdoors, and the art is exhibited and sold to benefit the event’s host, the Sheridan Arts Foundation.

AUGUST 5–7 TELLURIDE JAZZ CELEBRATION From international jazz legends to up-and-coming brass ensembles, the annual festival hosts the best of the genre at Town Park during the day and at the local venues in the evening. This year’s lineup features Jon Cleary, Galactic, Jon Scofield, Marcus Miller, The Rebirth Brass Band, and more. AUGUST 11–21 TELLURIDE CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL Classical music concerts are held outdoors and in various small venues around town. AUGUST 18–21 TELLURIDE MUSHROOM FESTIVAL Symposiums, classes, forays, and a parade all celebrate fungi in this fun weekend event. SEPTEMBER 2–5 TELLURIDE FILM FESTIVAL Telluride hosts an internationally acclaimed film festival with world premieres, movie stars, filmmakers, directors, and a free outdoor cinema.

JULY 9–10 THE RIDE FESTIVAL KOTO Community Radio hosts a two-day music concert in Town Park, featuring Pearl Jam, The Dirty Knobs, The Temperance Movement, Jerry Joseph & the Jackmormons, and more.

SEPTEMBER 16–18 TELLURIDE BLUES & BREWS FESTIVAL This popular fall music festival features craft beers from all over the country and a beer tasting, as well as big name music acts in Town Park and at late night “Juke Joints” performances in local venues.

JULY 21–24 TELLURIDE YOGA FESTIVAL Yoga instructors from all over the world convene in Telluride to offer workshops in all types of yoga, meditation, and kirtan.

SEPTEMBER 29–OCTOBER 2 TELLURIDE FESTIVAL OF CARS & COLORS An annual celebration for automobile enthusiasts with the mountain foliage as a backdrop.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

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JULY 4 TELLURIDE 4TH OF JULY CELEBRATION Telluride’s Independence Day features a parade, a community barbecue, games and activities for families in Town Park, and a grand fireworks display after dark.

JULY 15 AH HAA ART AUCTION This madcap annual fundraiser for the local arts school features a live auction with entertainment and a silent auction for all types of artwork and prizes.

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JUNE 6–12 WILD WEST FEST Celebrate the culture of the West at this weeklong, familyoriented festival hosted by the Sheridan Arts Foundation.

JULY 27–31 TELLURIDE PLAYWRIGHTS FESTIVAL The festival offers a laboratory setting for actors, playwrights, and directors to network and to nurture new work. Presenting The Hispanic Women’s Project this summer, a collection of true local stories.

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MAY 27–30 MOUNTAINFILM IN TELLURIDE The festival celebrates the outdoors, featuring films about adventure and ecology, symposiums, and lectures.

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located at mile marker 80 on highway 145 between placerville and telluride

970.728.9898 SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

KEEPING YOUR SUMMER GREEN PLEASE STAY ON THE GRASS

HERITAGE PARKING GARAGE AND NORTH VILLAGE CENTER FIRST TWO HOURS FREE

townofmountainvillage.com/getting-around/parking

RECREATIONAL & MEDICAL CANNABIS CENTER

250 SOUTH FIR STREET 728-7999

ONE BLOCK EAST OF THE TELLURIDE GONDOLA STATION

RYAN BONNEAU

JULY 3 RED, WHITE AND BLUES CONCERT Free outdoor music on the Sunset stage opens up the Fourth of July festivities.

JUNE 15–AUGUST 17 MARKET ON THE PLAZA Regional farmers and artisans vend food and crafts on the plaza from 11 a.m. until 4 p.m. every Wednesday.

JULY 8 THE RIDE FESTIVAL PRESENTS AN EVENING OF ROCK AND ROLL Catch music by The Sheepdogs and The Record Company for free, the evening before The Ride Festival begins.

JUNE 15 FIRSTGRASS FESTIVAL The Telluride Bluegrass Festival kicks off with a free show, outdoors in Mountain Village. JUNE 25 TOUCH A TRUCK A fun fundraiser for local Mountain Munchkins preschool where toddlers get to explore big trucks. JUNE 29, JULY 13, 20, & 27, AUGUST 3, 10, 17 SUNSET CONCERT SERIES Free outdoor concert on the Sunset stage, with the Mt. Wilson range as a backdrop.

JULY 20–23, AUGUST 25–27, SEPTEMBER 28–30 WELLNESS SYMPOSIUM Renowned doctors and researchers hold lectures about evidence-based medicine, answering questions about health. SEPTEMBER 9–11 INTEGRATIVE WELLNESS SUMMIT Telluride First Foundation hosts experts on health, medicine, meditation, and well-being.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

Mountain village

Life is messy.

MOUNTAIN VILLAGE IS A TINY ALPINE HAMLET, CONNECTED TO

• Fully Insured & Bonded • Locally Owned & Operated • Residential & Commercial • Carpet, Upholstery & Rugs • Pet & Family Friendly • Organic & Biodegradeable • 24 Hour Water Removal • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee

TELLURIDE BY A FREE GONDOLA TRANSPORTATION SYSTEM. Established in 1995, the town is elegant, with high-end hotels and spas, excellent restaurants, and an 18-hole golf course. Nestled in the mountains, there are networks of hiking and biking trails emanating from the town’s core and endless recreational opportunities.

There is ample parking available at the gondola station, and the entire village is a pedestrian haven. Free music concerts on an outdoor stage happen regularly throughout the summer, and every week a farmers market with local vendors takes over the plaza. The views of the surrounding peaks, from the town’s center or from the top of the gondola, are stunning.

Carpet pro Cleaning ServiCeS

by Giorgio

JUNE 9–12 WOW WEEKEND OF WELLNESS FESTIVAL Celebrate fitness and wellness at this weekend of speakers and events.

OPEN 11 AM – 7 PM

Model: Miss Mizu Varese

We can help!

Giorgio Varese Resident Since 2000

970.729.0059

carpetpro2009@gmail.com

Let it be known that: GIORGIO VARESE

Is a registrant in good standing with IICRC, and has qualified by service and examination for Certification in the following areas: FLOOR CARE, UPHOLSTERY & FABRIC CLEANING, CARPET CLEANING, WATER DAMAGE RESTORATION, JOURNEYMAN TEXTILE CLEANER, ODOR CONTROL, FIRE RESTORATION and has pledged to perform services in these areas with skill, honesty, and integrity in order to provide the consumer with the highest degree of professionalism possible. SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

PARK AND

The best selection, the best service, & the best prices for 35 years and counting.

RIDE

MOUNTAIN BIKING MECCA IN MOUNTAIN VILLAGE

It may be easy to catch a ride “THE PARK IS NOT Most downhill parks in the country charge for both a ride up and up to the top, but getting down access, says Lawshe. is most definitely not easy. The FOR THE The free ride is not just for mountain bike park was initially FAINT-OF-HEART downhill mountain bikers. There constructed to accommodate a are some incredible cross-counWorld Cup downhill mountain DOWNHILL try mountain biking trails that are biking race, and the trails are also accessed from the top of the decidedly expert in nature—the BIKERS.” gondola, like the super popular most difficult trail has a gap jump Prospect Loop, an 8.4-mile singletrack loop that that spans a road, and some of the jumps are taller offers amazing views of the surrounding scenery, than head-high. In the years since the course was including the Wilson range. Prospect connects to first built for the World Cup race, other trails have some other epic trails, the Alta Lakes network and been constructed and new sections have been added, but they are all in the intermediate to advanced/ T35 trails, or further along riders can hit the Jurassic expert range. “The park is not for the faint-of-heart or Boomerang trails. The options are endless, and downhill bikers,” says Will Lawshe, a recreation serthe best part? Riders got a leg up with the gondola vices specialist for Mountain Village. ride to 10,000 feet, saving their energy for a longer ride and enjoying some great, flowing downhill Lawshe is part of the crew tasked with restoring the park each spring after the snow recedes sections. “You can start at 10,000 feet. There’s a lot from the ski resort. Hundreds of inches of snow fall less uphill and you get above treeline fairly quickly, every winter, and in the spring, the downhill runs so that’s the biggest benefit. Being able to get way are the natural path for the snowmelt to drain. “We up there and ride,” says Lawshe. pretty much have to rebuild it every year because If you’re into downhill mountain biking, of the snowmelt. It’s a big job,” says Lawshe. though, the park is truly a unique and challenging Lawshe and his crew work very hard every experience. The rides are rated similarly to ski spring to make easy access for mountain bikers. runs, but because it’s all advanced terrain, there All riders need to do is pull up to the multi-level are only blue and black diamond runs. “There are parking garage and pull out their bikes. All of the no greens in the bike park,” advises Lawshe, and gondola cabins carry bikes, and the ride up to the he says that it’s good to have the right equipment top of the park is free. The ride down is free, too, for downhill biking. “I always recommend at the as there is no charge to access the park—riders very minimum a helmet, but when it comes to just need to fill out a waiver and they get a pass. padding in the bike park, the more the merrier.”

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

THE TRAILS IN THE BIKE PARK:

NO-BRAINER: 1.5 miles, rated difficult. Expect a 24-inch wide trail, moderate slopes, and unavoidable obstacles less than six inches tall consisting of gravel, rocks and roots. Avoidable obstacles present. T-BONE TRAIL: .3 miles, rated more difficult. Moderate slopes, forks off from No-Brainer and reconnects. Expect a 12-inch wide trail, moderate slopes and unavoidable obstacles less than six inches tall consisting of gravel, rocks and roots. Avoidable obstacles up to 24 inches tall present. COCOA LOCO TRAIL: .1 miles, rated advanced. Forks off the T-Bone and reconnects. Expect a 12-inch wide trail, steep slopes and unavoidable obstacles up to 12 inches tall. Avoidable man-made features up to 30 inches tall present. GOLD RUSH TRAIL: .75 miles, rated most difficult. Forks off the No-Brainer and features small jumps and drops. Expect a 12-inch wide trail, steep slopes, and unavoidable obstacles less than 24 inches tall consisting of roots, stumps, rocks and loose gravel. Avoidable obstacles up to 36 inches tall present. PAN-COASTER TRAIL: .5 miles, rated most difficult. Begins at the road gap adjacent to World Cup trail, featuring berms and jumps and flows in and out of trees. Expect a 12-inch wide trail, steep slopes, and unavoidable obstacles less than 24 inches tall consisting of roots, stumps, rocks and loose gravel. Avoidable obstacles up to 36 inches tall present. WORLD CUP TRAIL: .75 miles, rated expert only. Very steep slopes, forks off the Gold Rush Trail .4 miles from the Bike Park entrance. Expect a 12-inch or less wide trail, very steep slopes, and unavoidable obstacles of up to 10 feet tall consisting of log jams, steep drops, jumps and berms.

he number of places in the United States where you can take a free gondola ride up above 10,000 feet in elevation to access a downhill mountain bike park is…one. And it’s in Mountain Village.

Now delivering to Telluride every second Wednesday of every month. Shipping and pickup also available, see our website for details. 2438 Patterson Road - Grand Junction

970.242.0999

fisherliquorbarn.com

UPSHOT

Twilight Time

Photographer Kane Scheidegger captured this SUP mission on Columbine Lake under the night sky. Columbine Lake is typically cerulean, but with a few seconds of illumination, it was transformed into an ethereal green. If you look closely, you can see he also caught a shooting star in the frame. Photo by Kane Scheidegger

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2016

NEVER A DULL MOMENT

24/7

Owned & operated by the Southern Ute Indian Tribe

IGNACIO, COLORADO • 888.842.4180 • SKYUTECASINO.COM

STAY AT THE PEAKS RESORT FOR ACCESS TO TELLURIDE–

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Visit ThePeaksResort.com or call 855.422.4348 to speak to a vacation specialist.