Khadi Revival: Brand development and fashion project

KHADI

A Cloth The Movement A Lifestyle The Brand

INTRODUCTION Khadi, (pronounced Khādī) refers to handspun and hand-woven cloth. The raw materials may be cotton, silk, or wool, which are spun into threads on a Charkha (A traditional spinning implement).

Khadi was launched in 1920 as a political weapon in the Swadeshi movement of Mahatma Gandhi.

Khadi is sourced from different parts of India, depending upon its raw materials - While the silk variety is sourced from West Bengal, Bihar, Odisha and North Eastern states, the cotton variety comes from Andhra Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and West Bengal. Khadi poly is spun in Gujarat and Rajasthan while Haryana, Himachal Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir karnataka are known for the woolen variety.

Mahatma Gandhi urged people to burn their imported clothes and wear khadi.

Each person was encouraged to spin his own khadi, and then wear clothes made from it. The rationale behind it was to reject the clothes which were manufactured in England. The Britishers took cotton from India to England, and sold the finished goods here, pocketing a healthy margin. Why let the Britishers pocket the margin, was Gandhiji’s rationale. It is this margin, and the revenue they earn from it, that gives them the economic might to keep India under their thumbs. The whole concept of ‘Swadeshi’ was an economic strategy to minimise the colonised bankrolling the colonisers.

FIRST

IMPRESSION

Perceptionof KHADI

Khadi , earlier referred to as the freedom fabric of India, a unique product that has great value and enormous business potential, even at the international level, suffers from a perception problem within the country. A perception mapping of Indians shows how khadi’s value has changed phenomenally in the minds of the people spread across the country.

THEN During the colonial rule in India, khadi was used as a weapon, creating the notion, as developed by Mahatma Gandhi that, ‘When one wears Khadi, he wears freedom. Persons who possess an attitude of simple and contented life,wear khadi. Back in 1940s, Khadi was perceived as atool of defiance against the British Government. Mahatma Gandhi created an image of Khadi being symbolic of self-reliance and dignity.The idea behind khadi was to create a long lasting sustainable employment opportunity in rural ares to establish economic growth and stability.

Now, In popular culture, the perception of khadi has become synonymous with politicians and hence corruption, elderly people and the thinkers.

Though it continues to be perceived as a fabric of an independent individual with firm opinions and status, its popularity remains low due to it being perceived as a strong symbol of political associations, patriotism and historical relevance.

NOW

Politicians Older Generation Thinkers

In popular culture, the perception of khadi has become synonymous with politicians and hence corruption, elderly people and the thinkers.

Though it continues to be perceived as a fabric of an independent individual with firm opinions and status, its popularity remains low due to it being perceived as a strong symbol of political associations, patriotism and historical relevance.

Unaware

Between those who have embraced khadi as a style statement and those who associate with patriotism and political know-how, there is another class of people who are UNAWARE of Khadi as a product or the concept it has come to emulate.

Freedom Style Income

Khadi has become a trend, expressed by fashion designers who have begun to use it as a canvas to showcase their creations. From a fabric of freedom to fabric of fashion, Khadi has begun to reincarnate itself in the minds of people, who are not only conscious of its value, but also of its heritage, exclusivity and the philosophy it carries. People have also begun to perceive Khadi as synonymous to a ‘green’ lifestyle.

CURRENT MARKET SITUATION Khadi production activity is spread all over India, mostly in villages and small town.

Yearly India produces Rs 600 crore worth of khadi and has garnered sales worth Rs 900 crore. These numbers have increased over time, as of 2014.

As mentioned, in the last few years, production, sales and employment in the khadi sector has increased. The efforts put into changing the youth’s perception of khadi and creating products that would appeal to this generation has been a contributory factor to this increase.

2014, saw the credit given to youth-centric designs to boost sales, innovation of fabric and apparel in collaboration with NIFT and NID (government supported institutes of fashion and design) to promote khadi.

Today, with various perceptions of khadi floating around, the current market of khadi is something along the lines of ‘experimentative’. Though many have come to realise the true luxury and premium aspect of khadi, it still competes with the unorganised sector at large, instead of with various brands and retail outlets.

Few ventures that have led to the increased popularity of khadi in the recent times are: Fashion designers using Khadi in their collections. Popularly admired Prime Minister Modi encouraging the purchase of khadi products, introduction of Khadi Denim and the increased popularity of khadi as a trend internationally, from which the Indian youth of today borrow fashion sensibilities.

However, in the recent years, KVIC has gone ahead with private partnerships to manage its outlets with brands like Fabindia and Shoppers Stop being involved.

Khadi is at the very cusp of luxury and mass markets, with its labour intensive aspect of exclusivity and low production cost reasoning out each of the segments.

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Khadi Denim, one of the most revolutionary and youth- centric approaches to popularise and revive khadi, was taken up by Arvind Ltd in 2011. The yarn was hand spun and dyed with indigo and weavers from the khadi institutions set up by Gujarat Khadi Board worked to create this fabric. It has been globally marketed and has gained popularity in international markets due to its premium identity.

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With the youth of India, blindly following the ramps and walks of the western fashion, as khadi develops an international market, the youth are bound to wake up and take pride in their own fashion heritage.

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Designers, like Wendell Rodericks and Rohit Bal have launched Khadi lines too. It is soon becoming a trend in the fashion industry.

However, it lacks the power to reach out to the masses as it holds no appeal in their minds.

Sabyasachi, renowned fashion designer, believes khadi is a luxurious and sophisticated fabric and has styled entire lines using khadi.

To break the stereotype associated with khadi, he created an entire bridal wear collection – the ultimate realm of luxury clothing – from the fabric.

KHADI PRODUCTS Khadi, as defined by Mahatma Gandhi, is a cloth, handwoven in India from hand spun yarn. This cloth in itself has unique properties and an essence of ‘exclusivity’.

Khadi products are unique in the sense that they are ‘one of a kind’, besides being truly cottage. They are ‘flawed’ and not mindless creations of machines. Though the legal definition states it to be a fabric, khadi has now widely been accepted into the category of ‘natural’, ‘eco friendly’ and ‘organic’, due to its handmade quality.

REVITALISING KHADI CONCEPT Society today is far removed from what it once was. Rather than conforming to traditional expectations and assuming cookie-cutter versions of an idealized perfection; people want to be fearless in their individuality. No two people are the same, and the modern youth is embracing this reality more than ever. Today’s generation is not only accepting, but proud of what makes them different. They reject stereotypes and instead proudly wear their differences on their sleeve. People are slowly rebelling against perfection – individual flaws and imperfections are seen as something to be celebrated, rather than hidden away.

Khadi clothing has been a symbol of rebellion since its inception. Everything from its philosophy to its workmanship embodies a staunch, unwavering confidence. The clothes are hand-woven from indigenous materials, supporting local weavers and perpetuating the spirit of patriotism. As each piece is handmade, no two can be the same. While some may see these differences as undesirable, they are in fact what make the design unique.

This imperfection, this purposeful individuality, is a clothing concept that would appeal to the diversification of today’s youth – individuals who seek fashion that has an identity, as opposed to the typically mass-produced generic creations that are always on offer.

Khadi is perfectly imperfect – as are we.

TARGET MARKET According to Technopak data, 2014, Every third person in an Indian city is a youth. In about seven years, the median individual in India will be a 29 year old city dweller, making it the youngest countryin the world. India is set to experience a dynamic transformation as the population burden of the past, turns into a demographic dividend. However, the benefits will be tempered with social and spatial inequalitites.

The Brand Vraana, targets the young adult population, north of the age group 22, with reasonably high levels of disposable income. These are fashion forward consumers who have the liberty to make ecologically conscious purchasing decisions, without compromising on their style sensibilities.

They want to know where their money goes and can choose to make informed purchases in environmentally sound organisations, that cut out the middlemen.

The consumer is aware of their impact on society and understands that by supporting the revolution of Khadi and its products, they have the opportunity to give back, without wavering on style and inequality.

STRATEGY Vraana will have a largely influential online presence. Using various outlets of social media, the brand will be able to capture the attention and connect with the target audience. Promotional offers and events such as discounts, sales and occassions will be effectively broadcasted in ways that may encourage consumer participation. Awareness events and campaigns to shed light upon the ongoing situations with artisans and the industry is just one of the possible methods of social outreach.

BRAND POSITIONING

Aarushi Saxena

Fashion Communication National Institute of Fashion Technology