Aashni + Co Bride_Issue 2

BRIDE ISSUE NO 2

EDITOR’S NOTE

P

eople often ask me what made me open a bridal store with Indian aesthetics in a place like Notting Hill, London. My answer is where else. A blend of originality, versatility, quirkiness and always room for romance- there couldn’t have been a more suited place than to offer a spread of luxury and contemporary at par to art lovers from across borders.

With the above in mind and Aashni + Co completing two years this month, there isn’t a better time to introduce outside of the Designer space, Industry experts within this issue. Deep Kailey gives the Bride a low down on The Style Edit this couture season along with Ekta Rajani directing the feature The Look Book Spy and the Cover.

Outside of the main fashion stories, we have launched a new section called The Little White Book, highlighting our edit of this season’s must visits for the Brides-to-be.

Giving a Bride The Perfect Plan, Siddhartha Sacheti- CEO, Jaipur Gems talks about the rich heritage of Gems and reveals key investment worthy pieces.

In love with the idea of effortless, ethereal and edgy, this season’s couture trends has hit the mark. From Anamika Khanna’s floral fashion to Manish Arora’s metal mayhem, the take is dark, modern and feminine allowing you to be pretty and powerful- perfectly in sync with the Aashni + Co woman.

Aashni Shah, Editor-in-Chief September 2014

3

CONTENTS 6.

46. FOREVER THE BRIDESMAID

THE STYLE EDIT This season’s top trends unpicked.

DETAILING

All the looks you need to know

about for the bridesmaid this season.

50. THE PERFECT PLAN:

12. JEWELLERY: POWER

A spotlight on those all important finishing touches.

14. ONE FOR THE GROOM

De-mystifying the colour every Indian bride shys away from.

16. THE LITTLE WHITE BOOK

SIDDHARTHA SACHETI, CEO JAIPUR GEMS

Interview with the man leading Jaipur Gems

52. AASHNI + CO: REAL BRIDE

Our edit of this season’s must visit sites.

Words from in-store bridal alumni.

54.

WEDDING SHOW: BRIDAL BLISS

20.

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

The collections examined — the nitty gritty from each designer.

Experience being a bride with AASHNI + CO.

AASHNI + CO BRIDE Editor-in-Chief Aashni Shah Fashion Features- Andrew Whitty Art Editor- Steve Pearse Features Assistant- Slikha Sidhu Guest Contributor- Deep Kailey for The Style Edit Look-book Spy

Cover

Image Contributors

Creative Director/ Stylist- Ekta Rajani Fashion Assistant- Shradha Sardana Photographer- Taras Taraporvala Photography assistant- Mitesh Mirchandani Hair and make-up - Sandhya Shekhar Hair and Make-up Assistant- Devika Herror Model- Suzy (Anima Creative Management)

Lehenga by Sabyasachi Neckpiece by Anmol Jewellers

Amrapali Bedika and Richa Jaipur Gems Mira Parmar Nidhi Agarwal Penhaligons Preeti Mohan Rosalind Miller Vasundhara Viral Bhayani Zita Elze Zouch and Lamare

Gehna Jewellers Anmol Jewellers Kakad Palace, Turner Road, Turner Road, Bandra, Mumbai 400 050 Bandra (w), Mumbai - 400 050 Tel: +91 22 6120 1234 Tel: +91 22 6133 3444

5

THE STYLE EDIT

RED ALERT: In this day and age, with Indian Fashion being much more widely available and experimental, brides should be exploring away from one single colour for their wedding ceremony. Despite this, there is no hiding from the traditional hue of red.

Here it’s seen in different tones, densities and more importantly new silhouettes giving the colour a much more modern and current edge.

THE

While Manish Arora went boho in his aesthetic, at the opposite end of the spectrum we saw Manish Malhotra at his traditional best for this season’s Couture offering. Giving a more feminine approach to the strong reds, designers Sabyasachi and Shehlaa gave us flattering silhouettes via the use of deeper necklines, sheers and much fuller skirts.

STYLE EDIT

The Indian bride is built on tradition and an inherited aesthetic. Current couture collections have made these sentiments accessible to the bride in the here-and-now. The Style Edit highlights the key trends for this bridal season, exploring where and who a bride should look to for the designs that are right for her. It also gives her a chance to play with alter ego. Let’ call her the bridal warrior.

BY DEEP KAILEY

MANISH MALHOTRA

MANISH MALHOTRA

SABYASACHI

SHEHLAA

MANISH ARORA

7

THE STYLE EDIT

THE STYLE EDIT

JACKETS:

FLORAL:

India’s version of modern tailoring varies dramatically from that of the Western fashion industry. Be it a beautiful draping jacket or a dupatta worn in a superhero cape manner, the key is with India’s designs is femininity with a twist.

Little to lots, eclectic or simple, the Winter/Festive season’s floral favourite have never been chicer or expertly put together.

A myriad of designers including Anamika Khanna, Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi, and Shehlaa, all advocated the cover-up by means of jackets and capes in their collections. Apart from being a guaranteed standout during the celebration, one can swear by the multipurpose use of this drape outside of the wedding milieu, with the garment forming a wardrobe staple for seasons to come.

Now is a season that sees blooms flourish and a rebirth of all that is beautiful and delicate. With hints of embellished confection in different forms, the one common denominator was the use of vintage-inspired greens, creams and blushes.

ANJU MODI

SHEHLAA

SHEHLAA

SABYASACHI

SABYASACHI

MANISH MALHOTRA

ANAMIKA KHANNA ANAMIKA KHANNA

MONISHA JAISINGH ANUSHREE REDDY

9

THE STYLE EDIT

THE STYLE EDIT

BUTTON DOWN:

SHARARAS: The word lehenga is thrown about so much throughout Indian fashion, and now with so many now readily available it can be difficult for any bride to select one that best reflect her personality on her wedding day.

Numerous designers are now offering a secondary option when it comes to dressing below the waist - namely shararas.

Sabyasachi and Ridhi Mehra opted for more subtle tones of champagne when including these flared fancies in their collections, with a focus on embellishment.

Of course, if you’re going to make a statement and ditch the lehenga you may as well do it in style! Arpita Mehta showed shararas in tones of pink, from neon through to girlish dusty.

One of the major complaints around Indian bridal wear is that it can often be tricky to manoeuvre when wearing it often causing frustration and tiredness. Luckily for the Winter/Festive season, India’s best designers have taken this into account and presented looks that are versatile and much more appropriate for today’s modern bride.

The button-down blouses shown by Anju Modi and Anita Dongre are perfectly fitted to the body, eliminating excess draping and unnecessary fabric. What’s more, they embrace two very different themes. The first being simplistic block colours - The aforementioned Modi was a champion of this, as was Monisha Jaisingh during her Couture Week show.

Secondly, if you’re a fan of wonderfully embroidered detailing and print you’re guaranteed to find one to suit you thanks to the likes of Manish Arora and Sonakshi Raaj who created some real stand out pieces.

As Indian bridal wear continues to move forward, whilst still remaining true to its past and the culture it is rooted in, it a testament to the countries design talent that they find new ways each season to please so many different types of Indian woman.

SONAKSHI RAAJ MANISH ARORA

ARPITA MEHTA

ARPITA MEHTA

ANITA DONGRE RIDHI MEHRA MANISH ARORA

RIDHI MEHRA

SABYASACHI

ANJU MODI

MONISHA JAISINGH WITH LIZA HAYDON MONISHA JAISINGH

11

JEWELLERY

JEWELLERY

O

POWER DETAILING

ne can often feel underdressed in the best clothes when not accessorising properly. In terms of dressing on a daily basis, selecting the wrong handbag, shoes and jewellery can have a tremendous effect on how we feel about what we’ve chosen to wear. On a wedding day, with the added adrenaline and nerves, this feeling can be heightened.

India’s jewellery designers are amongst the best in the world yet often go unnoticed on a global scale. They have unprecedented access to some of the finest jewels in the world. This is apparent via the truly breathtaking offering they have created for this Winter/Festive season.

Amrapali For the bride looking to dazzle a little more, Amarpali is the brand to select. The edit focuses on emeralds and diamonds - the most classic of stones. These can be seen across necklaces, earrings and hand wear meaning that whichever part of you body you feel needs accenting the most, you can do in the most glamorous way possible.

Preeti Mohan Her earring are destined to perfectly frame any brides face due to the wide selection available. Jhumkis and longer shapes proving to be a particular penchant for the designer, the introduction of smaller stones are ideal and do not distract too much from the bride’s beauty.

Bedika and Richa Vasundhara Mantri A staple in the Aashni + Co selection is designer Vasundhara Mantri. Her designs are somewhat more refined than those of her counterparts, often focusing on rustic tones such as bronze and gold, this is probably why they look best when photographed in an outdoor environment. Mantri then highlights with carefully placed gems and stones, ensuring that the bride gets that injected dose of glamour.

Of course, there is the bride that is always somewhere in between. The selection from Bedika and Richa perfectly straddles the two trends described above. The designs embrace the more casual aspect of jewellery but with larger stones still command attention. Turquoise and pearl, as well as an abundance of tear drop shapes give the Winter/Festive edit a completely traditional feel, honoring the importance in the Indian Wedding and the commitment the bride is about to make.

13

SABYASACHI ANJU MODI

ONE for the GROOM

Indian menswear are instantly recognisable by their silhouette and classic structural shapes. The groom too wants to look his best on the day to impress his bride-to-be. He too gains some sense of individuality, making his day as special and as personal as possible.

Manish Malhotra presented a classic collection at Couture Week and Lakme Fashion Week with a muted monochrome colour palette of black, navy, red and steel grey. For the minimalist groom, the simple off-white kurta with black bandhgala layered on top ensures that he remains looking understated but still as if he has taken time in getting prepared for the ceremony.

ANJU MODI

A

Manish Malhotra’s offering also featured creating a feast for the eyes, and also a striking silhouette guaranteed to impress the gathered crowds.

cross the globe’s many different cultures, wedding traditions vary greatly.

The ceremonies, the style of outfits worn by the party and its guests - even the food served all help give the day a certain identity. There is one thing that remains constant however; the ceremony and the build up to it, focus heavily on the bride.

It’s often seen as ‘her big day’ and the time she truly looks her most beautiful.

Anju Modi is of course known for her striking women’s bridal wear, however she too creates some interesting pieces for men that are just as coveted as her feminine designs. The Anju Modi groom is somewhat relaxed, as was clear from the dhotis and kurtas the models sported at Couture Week 2014. However, using the regal pairing of navy blue and gold, the designer ensured that the groom will not look as if he’s not made an effort to win over his bride-to-be.

However, a marriage is a partnership between two people, so what about the groom? The designs in

Sabyasachi takes it one step further with his menswear shown at Couture Week. The fitted banarasi and ultraslim churidar would not have looked out of place on the London Fashion Week catwalk. When taking into account the muted pink and orange colour story, and the giant floral print pattern, the Sabyasachi groom is definitely a modern one. Let’s just hope he doesn’t out shine his bride!

SABYASACHI

MANISH MALHOTRA

ANJU MODI

SABYASACHI

MANISH MALHOTRA

SABYASACHI

MANISH MALHOTRA SABYASACHI

MANISH MALHOTRA

LITTLE white BOOK Cakes Rosalind Miller Rosalind Miller Cakes specialises in bespoke wedding cakes celebration cakes, and cupcakes, that are both contemporary and timeless. Having won The Wedding Industry Awards ‘National and London Best Wedding Cake Designer of The Year’ in 2012 and 2013, Rosalind is recognised as one of London’s top cake designers.

Scents Penhaligon’s William Penhaligon, was appointed Royal Barber and Perfumer to the Royal Court during Queen Victoria reign and in 1903 the business was granted its first Royal Warrant from Queen Alexandra. Now over 140 years later, Penhaligons are proud to hold Royal Warrants from The Prince of Wales (granted in 1988) and the Duke of Edinburgh (granted in 1956). Warrants have always been regarded as demonstrating excellence and quality, and are highly prized. Penhaligon’s is where the aristocratic luxuries of yesteryear become covetable necessities for a modern lifestyle.

No two boutiques are the same; each one is filled with antiques, nick-nacks and most importantly, personality.

For stockists and further information please contact Lauren MacAskill w: http://www.penhaligons.com e: lmacaskill@penhaligons.com p: +44 (0)207 590 6125

w: http://www.rosalindmillercakes.com e: info@rosalindmillercakes.com p: +44 (0) 207 635 5447

Wedding Planner Zouch & Lamare Zouch & Lamare promise the discerning bride and groom the ultimate in luxury and elegance in bespoke wedding planning. Based in London, with a keen eye for detail, they pride themselves on their ability to understand each couple’s vision to create a wedding day that shows off the bride and groom’s unique personality and style. Their dedicated service will guide you every step of the way to ensure your day is perfect and memorable. w: http://www.zouchandlamare.com e: hello@zouchandlamare.com p: +44 (0)203 697 1183

Florist Zita Elze Zita’s individual and distinctive approach to events and especially floral design combines an unerring sense for the beautiful with an unusual degree of creativity and a fine sensitivity to her clients’ wishes, for whom she delivers imaginative concepts with careful attention to detail and quality. w: www.zitaelze.com e: zita@zitaelze.com p:+44 (0)208 940 0040

Make-Up and Hair Mira Parmar Mira Parmar is a freelance Celebrity Make-up artist & Hair Stylist based in London.

Clients include Katrina Kaif, Deepika Padukone, Anushka Sharma, Joanna Lumley, Vogue Italia, Vogue India, Harper’s Bazaar, L’officiel and others. w:www.miraparmarmakeup.com e:mira@miraparmarmakeup.com p:+44 (0)780 136 4155

Bridal Beauty Graceful Brides Getting married is one of the most exciting moments in your life, it can also be one of the most stressful. Taking time out for yourself is essential, so we have created the Grace Bridal Membership, ensuring that you will not only look and feel your very best on the Big Day, but can also take care of your health and wellbeing long into the future, as a married woman.

Grace Belgravia Full Membership Package includes full access to London’s most beautiful private health, wellbeing and lifestyle club for women.

Grace Belgravia is built on a philosophy that successful women in today’s society thrive from optimal health in mind, body and soul. Our vision is led by a team of internationally recognised experts and therapists; our mantra is inside out beauty. The 11,500 sq. ft. private Club has been created for women with busy, demanding lives who want the very best for their health and wellbeing, particularly when leading up to something as important as their wedding day.

Our philosophy that “Prevention is the Medicine of the 21st Century” informs every element of the Club, from our integrated medical clinic, spa retreat, results driven gym, Grace Café and eclectic events programme. The result; our members benefit from feeling the very best they can, in every aspect of their lives whether that is in business, with family or with friends.

All of the facilities of the Club, from our medical clinic, spa and restaurant are available to Bridal Members, but included in the special package are the following three consultations.

- GP Consultation for both you and your partner. This is an opportunity to discuss with our Medical Director, Dr Tim Evans, any health concerns you might have.

- One hour skin (facial) consultation with Dr Rabia Malik, our cosmetic doctor complete with Visia scanner to address any skin problems and create a bespoke product planner in the lead up to the wedding.

- Body Assessment - 30 minute assessment with Grace spa therapist to advise on best treatments for firming, toning, cellulite busting, anti-ageing, detoxification and general grooming.

Included in the Bridal Membership are 10 x Guest Day Passes for you to enjoy the Club with your girlfriends.

6 month Bridal Membership - £2,500

12 month Bridal Membership - £4,500

For more information about the Grace Bridal package please contact our membership team

020 7235 8900 ext 3 or membership@gracebelgravia.com

www.gracebelgravia.com

THE

LOOKBOOK SPY

A

n inundation of catwalk images, mixed with the constant celebrity focussed paparazzi lens can make current designer collections hard to digest. The Look-book Spy gives an exclusive insight into these collections for you; the bride who inspires the designers’ minds and hands that craft them.

With words from the couturier’s themselves, this is a chance for the brideto-be to unveil a unique perspective from behind the seams. Discovering your bridal wardrobe is like finding another perfect matrimony itself.

21

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

Arora MANISH

“ Fearless and confident truly describes a Manish Arora bride. Stars would be her followers, as she would be the

cynosure of everybody’s eye.”

Body Suit by Manish Arora Earrings by Anmol Jewellers

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

I

f there’s anything that proves just how talented Manish Arora is it’s his Autumn offering, which is dissected into six separate mini-collections. The fact that the designer is able to find inspiration from many different sources in one season, just shows how well trained his eye is.

Starting the Winter/Festive story, Arora took inspiration from gold. Of course, being a creative, it is not quite as simple as it sounds. The gold hues used were a mixture of many different shades the precious metal takes its form in - always trying to remain true to the Indian sense of style. The smallest details of garments were actually gold plated making this couture at its finest.

In a move away from India as an inspiration, the second part of the collection - entitled ‘Lights’, looked to the European Capitals of Paris and Belgium and their illustrious light shows known the world over.

Of course, couture didn’t come with light bulbs attached, this is not for Lady Gaga! Instead Arora used his talent to replicate the sense of illumination my mixing textures such as velvet and silk, and embellishing saris with various sizes of sequins designed to catch light.

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY Next, it was a particular iconic piece of headwear not a geographical location that Manish used an inspirational starting point - the crowns of royalty. Italian designer duo Dolce & Gabbana have touched on this trend too, however they literally dressed their models in tiaras and crowns. Instead Arora chose a more abstract approach, including gold elements and pearls in the embroidery, against a backdrop of emerald green, royal blue and beige.

Japan is known for its futuristic approach to technology, but Arora, to bring yet another element into his Winter/Festive offering looked to the traditional technique of creating Temari balls. The sharp and detailed technique was transformed into CHIP embroidery, where each chip ,1/2 centimetre was cut manually, and then tucked to create the geometric and futuristic patterns.

Each piece is constructed with thousands of these chips.

With so many different elements on offer from Manish Arora this season, the designer is guaranteed to be able to make all brides-to-be happy and dressed exactly how they want during their wedding.

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY Peacock Bandhgala and Lehenga by Anamika Khanna Neckpiece and Earrings by Anmol Jewellers

Khanna ANAMIKA

“The Anamika Khanna bride is not the stereotypical bride.

She is intelligent, has a mind of her own and is willing to experiment. At the same time she respects the

heritage and tradition of the auspicious occasion.�

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

T

here is one common theme that runs through Anamika Khanna collections, and that is craft. Viewing her collections up close, you can clearly see how much hand-work goes into creating the pieces that make it.

Whether that be the intricate lace-work or the handpainted motifs, when buying something of Khanna’s you are truly investing in a piece of art.

For Winter/Festive 2014, Khanna’s emphasis on craft is heightened even more. The designer has chosen to use many different styles and techniques in the hope that she can honour her forefathers and the skills they used daily in ancient times.

In fact, the natural world seemed to pop up throughout the collection.

On many of the jackets a technique was used to bring together teardrop shapes. Looked at from afar these could be mistaken for the scales of an exotic animal, catching the light and creating a sort of armour. Again, this is a testament to Khanna's appreciation of craft and the techniques used to create the garments in her Winter/ Festive collection.

As for colours, the theme of the season from Anamika Khanna is very muted. Soft beiges, creams and brown are mixed with pops of deep red.

What the designer presented more than others we were lucky enough to view were the clever use of dhoti and sharara bottoms. These came either simply plain for that understated, more casual approach to dressing or heavily printed to create a stand-out look. The addition of cropped capes also added to the overall, relaxed feeling of the collection.

Of course, this being bridal wear there are some awe-inspiring pieces too. The billowing lehenga, with its embroidery rising from the hem like a beautiful garden are features we’ve not witnessed in any other collection.

Other creations guaranteed to turn heads are Khanna’s sherwanis. Not content with having these finish at the ankle, the designer elongated her for the Winter/Festive season, having a train flowing behind the bride as she walks.

29

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

Malhotra ANISH

“A Manish Malhotra bride celebrates femininity. She is confident, modest and encourages individuality.

She values our traditions, cultures and heritage

�

along with a modern outlook towards life.

Hand Embroidered Lehenga by Manish Malhotra Neckpiece by Anmol Jewellers.

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

M

anish Malhotra enters this Winter/Festive season riding on the back of a very successful year. His critically acclaimed collection took pride of place as he closed Lakme Fashion Week back in August as the coveted Grand Finale designer.

Then came the show-stopping jhumkas created in conjunction with ForeverMark, inspired from the sartorial legacy and impeccable taste of a well travelled aristrocracy of 1930’s and 1940’s. They debuted with a full catwalk show firmly positioning Malhotra as one of India’s premier creative.

“Every year, there is a new inspiration that inspires my collection which is entwined with my signature style. This year I have showcased two diverse collections, one is absolutely bridal where I am going back to the old world charm, then there is Lakme Fashion Week, where it’s mainly focused on the celebrations that lead to the main day” What is clear, is that Malhotra certainly has something to offer every bride. For this season, the focus is heavily on regality and luxury. Deep golds, metallic bronze and black, add an air of sophistication to the collection. When you take into account the intricate detailing and embellishment, most notably on jackets, the sleeves in sherwanis and lehengas wearer commands attention.

“ “

ON...BRIDAL BEAUTY

Keep it simple and clean. A happy, glowing bride is the way to go.

”

ON...THIS SEASONS TREND SETTING SILHOUETTE

Trailing Lehenga – for a simple reason that it’s very princess/queen like and has the ability to create drama like no other silhouette. It’s a very old world inspired silhouette. .

”

As is the tradition for Bollywood stars to close Indian Couture shows, we asked Malhotra who outside the industry epitomised his woman, “Meryl Streep! For her timeless and confident style, and the fact that she embraces her individuality on screen as well as off screen.”

With Malhotra now at a seemingly high point of his career, what can come next?

He already has his main line, diffusion line, menswear and jewellery. We at Aashni+Co certainly can’t wait to see and will definitely be keeping a watchful eye over this creative.

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY The Lookbook Spy

Lehenga by Anju Modi Neckpiece by Anmol Jewellers

Modi Anju

“Every Couture season I keep my core inspiration and collection theme centered to a strong female character, that has been the essence of my design philosophy and aesthetic�

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

D

esigner Anju Modi looked to the past and expertly brought it into the future with her latest collection, through clever use of classic tones such as sepia and rose, and embroidery techniques that took their inspiration from ancient architecture.

It wasn’t just man-made structures that stoked Modi’s creative fires. The Ajanta-Ellora caves in the Aurangabad district of Maharashtra, India too proved fruitful with their paintings and Buddhist heritage providing the visionary with a starting point to build on.

The collection is titled ‘Manikarnika’. The woman of the season is a spiritual soul, reincarnated, wise and self aware, connected to the past and the olden ways but very much in the future.

“

I think my brand’s ethos are very rooted in our culture and tradition, and while many International celebrities would do complete justice to the ensembles, they may not epitomise my label

”

The Manikarnika woman certainly is a strong character.

Despite the collection featuring some ultra-feminine tones such as blue and pink, the bulk of the it was rich in deep, rustic red and black, giving the models that walked the ramp a demeanour of a woman on a mission.

Even the detailing on the lehengas and dhotis were more distressed than we’re used the seeing with Indian bridal wear, proving that the Anju Modi woman has lived a life filled with experiences and stories.

Of course, a bride wears more than clothing on her wedding day. The make-up and jewellery she chooses too can reflect her personality, “Keep it simple. A bride’s natural glow - with the anticipation, the nervousness, the happiness - gets masked by heavy make up, which also ends up making them look uncomfortable and out of ease”, states Modi, “Highlighting that natural glow and keeping the look simple, elegant and classic would be the way to go.”

ON...THIS SEASON’S TRENDING SILHOUETTE

“

The dhoti-suit for men and dhoti with a longer jacket for women - it’s interesting, traditional and yet contemporary

”

The fine zari and wool thread embroideries were the champions along with the antique, distressed finish of the fabrics,” Modi adds, “The collection also introduced some new silhouettes and interesting pairing of separates - with an attempt of showcasing the revival of the lost art form and silhouette albeit in a modern voice.”

37

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY The Lookbook Spy

Ivory Lehenga and Tennis Blouse by Sabyasachi Neckpiece by Anmol Jewellers

Mukherjee SABYASACHI

“Dignity, culture and a respect for tradition

epitomises the Sabyasachi bride. Her wedding decor would be a

royal organic theme, done with

hand block printed fabrics, flowers and a meal that is

”

completely Indian.

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

B

eing one of India’s premier fashion designers, and having a truly loyal growing fan base, allows Sabyasachi the creative freedom to be a bit risky when it comes to sourcing inspiration for his collections.

This is probably why he used the darker side of his hometown - Kolkata - for the basis of his Couture Week show. Calling it the ‘personalised imperfection of the human hand’ he took the barren desert, gypsies and prostitutes as a starting point and has worked them into something beautiful. This is not an easy task for a designer as he has two challenges - creating breathtaking clothing and then convincing his public to see past the negative aspects of inspiration.

The key word for Sabyasachi for the session was ‘fusion’.

You can see this in his use of patchwork elements and the clashing of prints and colours across the saris, lehengas and dupattas Despite the wildness and tumultuousness of his inspiration source, the collection itself appears somewhat refined and elegant. Sabyasachi’s clever use of sheer fabrics such as organza work expertly well in breaking up the - often heavy - dramatic prints.

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY Choli and lehenga were presented in tones of beige and champagne with some of the best use of embroidery we've seen from the designer. The subtle introduction of striking black stopped the collection from looking washed out and pulled together all that was going on.

There was also a slight nod to a woman embracing her sexuality, when a model walked the ramp in an outfit with larger sheer elements, playfully exposing the classic pieces worn underneath.

Many of the looks presented were accessorised with bags, both for the shoulder and to clutch. These were plain as to not distract from the main outfit, but can come perfectly handy for storing those special trinkets and gifts you're likely to receive as you take the next step in life as man and wife.

Closing the show, was a look that wouldn't have been out of place on the runway of say Oscar de la Renta or Carolina Herrera in New York.

A choli and lehenga perfectly matched in white and red, with sleeves cut seductively at the elbow was the epitome of elegance and class - surely what every bride wants to represent on her wedding day.

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

Anushree

Reddy “The collection this season is inspired from vintage floral prints which is my first love in terms of inspirations so its been more like creating a fantasy than a collection”

Floral lehenga by Anushree Reddy Earrings by Gehna Jewellers

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

A

THE LOOK-BOOK SPY

s is often the case with fashion, trends and themes

The floral prints used give the wearer an innocent quality,

between designers can prove to be quite a paradox. Where

almost as if she herself is a flower - a thing of true beauty.

as numerous Indi-

“

an designers chose

The collection last season was volumous, dramatic and embellished. This collection is more wearable, classic cuts and minimal intricate zardozi being infused. I wanted the prints to do the talking.

to focus on the strong, determined side of the woman this season, Nawabi visionary

”

Anush-

ree Reddy opted to embrace the ultra-

The collection certainly is wearable. There are lim-

feminine.

ited, unnecessary embellishments. You could tell by the way the clothing moved along the ramp at Cou-

Her

Winter/Fes-

ture Week, and by the way that each individual piece

tive collection was

photographs so well that every aspect of the design

inspired mainly by

has been considered. This simple approach to de-

all things vintage

sign also allows complete focus to be on the bride

- most notably the

throughout the day.

boutiques, colours

“

and prints of London’s

Portobello

Road Market. Rose, dusty pink and sea green all make an appearance across Reddy’s saris, lehengas and dupattas.

Indian bridal should stay true to its DNA and keep going. However i think it can be modified and slightly simplified to suit the modern indian bride who is independent , fun and wants to have fun on her own big day without being bogged down by the mere weight of her bridal attire.

”

In a move to keep things traditional and rooted in the past, the silhouettes from Anushree Reddy this season are classic in design. Lehengas flow and billow elegantly in the breeze, with the choli being heavily embroidered to create maximum effect.

The collection itself isn’t without a modern take and a slight bit of humour. One dupatta features the exaggerated detailing of a standard tape measure, clearly referencing Portobello’s famous reputation with design and tailoring.

This works perfectly well with the aforementioned palette of greens and pink that are so often seen adorning the flower boxes of the houses along the neighbouring streets of Portobello Market and the Notting Hill neighbourhood.

Taking all of this into consideration, a bride wearing Anushree Reddy on her wedding day can be sure that the pieces making up her stunning ensemble have been made with

ON...THIS SEASON’S TRENDING SILHOUETTE

“

Embelished crop tops all the way

”

love, injected with humour and most importantly designed to be both practical and stylish

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BRIDESMAIDS

FOREVER

BRIDESMAIDS

T

ANAMIKA

THE

ake the offering from designer Anita Dongre as the perfect example. She showed this pure white jacket with sleeves expertly cropped. As well as allowing the bridesmaids to look chic on the wedding day, its lack of heavy embroidery or detailing not only allows people to focus on the lehenga, it also means that post-ceremony, it can be teamed with everything from basic lehengas, formal trousers and jeans.

BRIDESMAID C

Versatility is a key factor for most designers this Winter/ Festive season. Looking at Anju Modi’s collection, there were a lot of longer blouses that once all the top layers of dressing are removed really are stand out pieces on their own.

ompared with those at Western weddings, bridesmaids at an Indian celebration should consider themselves very lucky in the fact that the looks that are chosen can often been reused and from a staple piece for third continued daily wardrobe.

ANITA DONGRE

MANISH MALHOTRA

ANAMIKA KHANNA

SONAKSHI RAAJ

ANJU MODI

RIDHI MEHRA

45 SONAKSHI RAAJ

BRIDESMAIDS

BRIDESMAIDS MANISH MALHOTRA

L

ooking at Manish Malhotra, there were also designs - most specifically Anarkalis, Jackets and toned down Lehengas worn with capes - that could be transformed into ongoing daywear. By removing the dupatta, a more basic, but still striking gown is created for future events.

A

SABYASACHI

s well as versatility, wearability and comfort played a factor in the designs of, again, Manish Malhotra and Sonaakshi Raaj. The saris created by both came draped and in light fabrics, making movement around much easier and simple. Perfect should the bride need assistance at any point during the celebrations.

Across many other shows including Anamika Khanna, Anushree Reddy Sabyasachi and Shehlaa, models showcased looks that transcend seasons and trends.

Blouses, cropped capes, Jackets and Florals were all paraded down the ramp proving that the Winter/Festive will be a season that continues to give for years to come.

ANUSHREE REDDY

SHEHLAA

SABYASACHI

MANISH MALHOTRA

SHEHLAA SABYASACHI

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THE PERFECT PLAN:

INTERVIEW WITH THE MAN LEADING JAIPUR GEMS

SIDDHARTHA SACHETI

J

aipur Gems has such a rich heritage. How much has changed since you opened your first store in the 1970s?

“Everything has changed. The way a consumer justifies a purchase and finds value in a product, may it be clothing accessories or fine jewelry. The perception of value and style has changed. From being a socialist based closed economy in the 70s to a moderately capital centric economy, the mindset of the Indian consumer has also has changed similarly. I also believe that the consumers invest heavily in established brands rather than small mom and pops..”

The peacock symbol is becoming synonymous with the brand. Why did you choose this?

“Jaipur Gems is borne of a family which has 7 generations of history from Rajasthan. The timeless beauty , the poise elegance and vividness of the colors everything is well represented in a gait of a peacock. We have loved peacocks, the mughals have loved peacocks, and the Peacock has been a source of inspirations for 100s and thousands of years of jewels, paintings and arts.”

What about a groom?

“A groom must invest in fabulous Jadau Buttons for the sherwani and Mardana Kantha for the wedding ceremonies.”

What are the key pieces a Bride should include in her trousseau?

“Trousseau jewels are equally as important as the wedding jewels, since this is the collection that you will wear for the next 10 years at least. You have to have a pair of solitaires, some gorgeous emeralds , ruby earrings , studs, some Cuffs, bangles and bracelets. Make sure to have a few pieces from every category, Gorgeous Gold, timeless treasures of emeralds rubies and other colored stones to match with your dresses and gowns and as well as your daily jewels.”

Timelessness of our design has been the hallmark of our brand, and we with time, always keep in mind the timelessness factor for every design and product that we deliver.”

What is a customer investing in when they purchase a Jaipur gem?

Do you think a London customer is looking for something different that a Mumbai / Delhi based customer?

“Jaipur Gems has always stood for high quality of diamonds and manufacturing details and unique one of a kind design.

“Well by experience, affluent consumers after a point behave similarly. Therefore most of our clients globally look for similar products, whether they be from London Los Angeles , New York, Dubai or Mumbai.

Everyone wants unique beautifully designed pieces, with the highest quality of raw materials and attention to detail, and that has always been the hallmark for JaipurGems.”

How can a bride best use jewellery on her wedding day?

“A bride should always remember she is the Hero of the wedding, and she must stand out more than anything. Many jewelers and stylists often make the mistake of suggesting large opulent garish jewels, which often make the bride look like a walking talking bank on the move. I always suggest to the contrary. A bride must choose a beautifully crafted piece of Gold Jewellery for her Wedding Ceremonies, since Gold is pure and it reflects the pureness of the sanctity of the event. For her Mehendi or Sangeet i would always advice stunning Jadau Jewellery, again not too LOUD, but definitely very unique and outstanding. For her Cocktails too i suggest contemporary Jadau, which are amazingly in Vogue and one can pair them with Gowns, and make them absolutely unique while being simple and not over the top”

Which is the best investment value piece as per you?

“You have to Invest in the right Brand, that is the biggest advice I would like to give. Often to save a few pennies a consumer doesn’t realize they have lost the entire pound spent on that purchase. A Brand delivers value and a promise, that no other vendor can deliver. And your investment in a chosen brand, will always be the wisest investment because a brand has to stand by its word and deliver values which is the reason we are more credible than others.

Other than that, I do believe Top Quality Emeralds and Colored Diamonds are great investments and one should collect these as a part of their portfolios of jewels.”

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THE REAL BRIDE I was excited to go back to Aashni + Co to share my news and my hope to find a dress, it was a matter of mere moments before we found the cream embroidered, gold embellished and black Sabyasachi Lehenga.

In fact I think it was the first outfit I picked out.

It was a joy! Rochelle gave me all the time I needed to think about my impulsive choice, to return to the shop with my mother, to bring a girlfriend of mine, closing off the lower large room for privacy each time.

There was no theme to our wedding other than trying to make it as best a representation of ourselves as possible.

We wanted it to be intimate, personal and without too much convention which neither Tarquin or I relate to.

I wore brown lace up boots from Stronghold in California bought for me by Tarquin immediately after his proposal.

The food at our wedding was by Gideon Hitchin from the River Cottage and classically English in its feel. We listened to live American folk music all day and all night by Cut A Shine. And our family and friends were from all over the world. There was no theme other than our eclectic personal tastes merged together, so I guess the theme was ‘us’.

What was so very interesting was people’s response to my outfit, there were many compliments alongside a keen

REAL BRIDE Pia Pack

“I

had honestly never thought about my wedding before and although I knew very early on in our relationship that Tarquin and I would spend the rest of our lives together, I did not think we would marry. When Tarquin proposed to me, while on a motorbike road trip through Los Angeles National Park California, I immediately thought of Sabyasachi.

There is a sweet symbolism for us with Sabyasachi as once upon a time we were in Aashni + Co and unbeknownst to me while I was still in the changing rooms, Tarquin secretly bought me my first Sabyasachi dress.

Working as an artist and textile designer I have a high appreciation for colour and detail, and the Indian textiles incorporate this completely. I live between Notting Hill and Wiltshire, so Ledbury Road is my local stomping ground.

After my first visit to Aashni + Co, I was very excited about the different Indian collections, and then I met Rochelle and Liam who were so engaging and informative about the designers.

As we chose to get married in England in February I wanted to find something that had a luxurious weight to it, something heavily embroidered and with well worked detail - nothing airy fairy or flimsy.

I was also adamant that whatever I wore on my wedding I could wear again in the future and that it would not be white.

I wore a muskrat fur tiara made by Justin Smith who most recently designed all of Angelina Jolie’s headgear for the movie Maleficent, Justin also turned the shawl of the Lehenga into my veil to tie the two elements of my outfit together.

interest to know its origin.

Many guessed Indian workmanship but some thought it was a vintage Victorian english gown and others thought it could be a Russian design.

I thought that the Sabyasachi Lehenga was seemless with the rest of the wedding and looked especially good next to Tarquin who wore an purple and grey tweed suit.

My first Sabyasachi dress and my Sabyasachi wedding outfit hold equal importance to me, above all other garments that I own. I am very proud to own them both. I strongly believe in owning a fewer number of unique, well made pieces of clothing than owning a mass of ubiquitous, poorly made clothes.

My advice with most things is go with your instincts and do not revert to others for opinions, its confuses one and usually dilutes one’s true identity which is always more beautiful. I think that a strong sense of identity is the greatest beauty one can possess.

I am a bit sad the whole experience is over to be honest, and it was the most enjoyable part of the whole wedding debacle by far!

Pia’s beautiful wedding photographs were taken by James Green

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WEDDING SHOW

BRIDAL BLISS

WEDDING SHOW London, United Kingdom JANUARY 2015

WEDDING SHOW Founded in Autumn of 2012, Aashni + Co pioneers the most desirable edit in Indian high fashion.

A beautiful concept store set in the heart of London’s Notting Hill with e-commerce site www.aashniandco.com, Aashni + Co has been established with the purpose of providing access to visionary designers of India for the residents of United Kingdom.

Designers in-store include Anamika Khanna, Manish Arora, Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi, Pankaj and Nidhi, Tarun Tahiliani and like.

WEDDING SHOW, JANUARY 2015 At Aashni+Co we have one vision- an amalgamation of all things beautiful under one umbrella.

With accessibility being key to this, the Aashni+Co wedding show will be held in January 2015 showcasing the latest offerings by a host of India’s best designers.

While more than 20 Wedding shows featuring Asian designs take place in the United Kingdom, Aashni+Co aims for a high-fashion offering with a focus on the luxury market. The difference is in the edit, which is what Aashni+Co prides itself on.

With every designer - whether they create clothing, fine jewellery, or events - being handpicked, you can be sure that designs will be viewed from the top end of the spectrum.

While the wedding show will focus on mainly Indian bridal and evening wear, the offering in other aspects of the day, such as the florists, cake designer, wedding planner and live bands will be handpicked from the creme de la creme within the United Kingdom.

To register your interest and ticket sales, please email the Aashni + Co team on info@aashniandco.com

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AASHNI + CO 47 LEDBURY ROAD, NOTTING HILL, LONDON, W11 2AA + (44) 207 985 0155. INFO@AASHNIANDCO.COM WWW.AASHNIANDCO.COM