10 minute read
WEST COAST WILDERNESS Trail
GREYMOUTH to ROSS, 4-5 days, 133km
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‘Oh jeez, not another natural wonder to behold,’ said no one ever on this wild, winsome ride. The scenery is flush with enough nature-made marvels to warrant a Grimm Brothers’ fairy tale.
This ride offers excellent variation in landscape and scenery. From the mountainous backdrop of the Southern Alps to ancient rainforest, wetland, rugged beaches and glacial rivers, New Zealand’s diversity is on full display. While you may be heavily captivated by the natural history, the ride is equally famed for its human history. Forged from a gold-rush heyday and peppered with packhorse tracks, tramlines, railways and rickety bridges, the window into the past is a highly engaging one.
The trail is divided into four mostly equal sections between Greymouth, Kumara, Cowboy Paradise, Hokitika and Ross. Commonly, most riders cycle from Greymouth (the West Coast’s ‘Big Smoke’) to the old gold town of Ross, but it is possible to travel the route in either direction. Each leg takes around three to five hours, so you have plenty of time to dawdle and detour.
Unique points of interest include the twists and turns of an historic water race. For the uninitiated, these are channels cut into hillside to bring water from streams (in this case, the Kaniere River) to places where gold was mined. Cowboy Paradise, a set of crumbling buildings staged to resemble an old Western town is known as the Lost City of the Wild West. Located halfway between Kumara and Hokitika, you get to play cowboy or cowgirl for the day. Between here and Kumara, you can also stop at Trappers Rest for a cup of Billy tea and fireside chat with local man, Paul Sinclair. He lives in a tepee and you simply make a donation for the brew.
TRAIL INFO
TRAIL GRADES:
GREYMOUTH TO KUMARA, 31KM - GRADE 2 (EASY)
KUMARA TO COWBOY PARADISE, 36KM - GRADE 2 (EASY) to GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
COWBOY PARADISE TO HOKITIKA, 36KM - GRADE 2 (EASY) to GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
HOKITIKA TO ROSS, 33KM - GRADE 2 (EASY) to GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good in towns and on much of the coastal sections of the trail. Virtually no coverage south of Kumara to Kaniere township.
DRINKING WATER: Water is readily available in towns and tourist stops along the way.
TYPE OF BIKE: A hybrid bike is sufficient for the terrain. E-bikes are also permitted.
RIDING THE TRAIL
GREYMOUTH TO KUMARA, 31KM
A photo stop is obligatory at the flood wall official start/finish gate before heading off along the Grey River flood wall. The river-mouth breakwater is a dramatic spot to reflect on the perilous river mouth and shipwrecks, and enjoy the rugged coastline. From here the trail follows the coast south, tucked behind flax-lined sand dunes and beside tidal lagoons. A signposted detour at Paroa leads to Shantytown Heritage Park (6.5km return), a major West Coast attraction and a must-visit for the history buff. The trail crosses its first notable river, the Taramakau, then hops onto the historic Kumara Bush Tramway for a delightful wind through regenerating forest and farmland with some terrific views out over the river. This leg finishes at Kumara’s splendidly restored Theatre Royal Hotel, a fine place for a pub lunch or a memorable overnight stay.
KUMARA TO COWBOY PARADISE, 36KM
Smooth terrain with a gentle gradient makes easy work of the 317m climb to Kawhaka Pass, which starts by winding through Kumara’s back blocks up to Kapitea Reservoir. Carrying onward, the subsequent Loopline Reservoir features a stone-face dam hand-laid in 1883 by gold miners. A sweeping boardwalk leads to a predominantly bush-lined gravel road section before the trail picks up old water races, logging trams and pack tracks up the valley, passing man-made dams and weirs. The Southern Alps are well and truly in view as you reach Kawhaka Pass and begin the descent through virgin rainforest to reach a suspension bridge stretching across a stunning gorge. The home run continues through more native bush, before arriving at the replica Wild West town, Cowboy Paradise.
COWBOY PARADISE TO HOKITIKA, 36KM
It’s time for the largely effortless sweep down towards the Arahura River. Emerging from bush into farmland after a few kilometres, the views of the Arahura Valley are quite the reveal. Across the river, the trail follows Milltown Rd for the gentle climb over Pyramid Hill to Lake Kaniere. Heading onward to Hokitika, the historic Kaniere Water Race is a pretty and fun section of trail. It connects with Lake Kaniere Rd, a quiet byway leading to Hokitika. If the skies are clear late in the day, don’t miss an evening ride (or stroll) along the beachfront to Sunset Point.
HOKITIKA TO ROSS, 33KM
An excellent option for beginners and families, this particularly flat section of trail starts by crossing Hokitika Bridge, with the Southern Alps in full view up front. A few kilometres in, a signpost indicates West Coast Scenic Waterways where a boat cruise or kayak trip on Mahināpua Creek can be factored in before continuing onward through impressive forest to meet the intriguing Mananui Tramline that cuts through bush and a historic pocket of exotic forest. Excellent information panels relay stories of Mahināpua’s rich past. From the end of the tramline, the trail follows a rural road to reach the West Coast Treetop Walkway where there’s a canopy tour and café. Beyond that, the trail soon reaches the main highway and follows it a short way to meet the historic Ross rail route. The old railway line is a long and straight haul, broken up with information panels and bridged creeks. It offers ever-changing views of wetlands and farmland backed by the mighty Southern Alps. The restored Totara Bridge (1908) is also a scenic highlight. From there it is a leisurely cruise into Ross, an old goldfields town with an information centre and small museum (where you can try your hand at gold-panning). Complete your ride with a photo in the photo frame south of the centre overlooking the lake.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Nature, anyone? Find scenic reserves, wetland, rainforest, pristine lakes, snow-dipped peaks, rivers, beaches and beautiful waterways, complete with swing bridges.
• Don’t miss the photo frame overlooking the lake behind the visitor centre at Ross.
• Cowboy Paradise boasts on-site accommodation. The owner is a colourful character, and he certainly makes the experience unique.
• The Kaniere Water Race is crystal clear. Listen out for the noise it makes, which is a gentle gurgle.
• The Theatre Royal Hotel in Kumara is loved by many. The restaurant has been beautifully restored, and the brand-new standalone cottages are brimming with fetching antique furniture.
Theatre Royal Hotel
West Coast Wilderness Trail
• Come nightfall, venture a step or two behind the Theatre Royal Hotel to spy glowworms.
• Stay at Scenic Waterways and hire their kayaks for a four to eight-hour sojourn on Lake Mahināpua. Alternatively, enjoy a sunset lake cruise aboard the Eco Adventurer.
• Arahura River is an important source of pounamu (greenstone) for the local Māori people. Pounamu, glass and other art studios abound.
View of Arahura river
West Coast Wilderness Trail
ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAIL
Touring the West Coast: 402km/6–8 days
Connecting the West Coast Wilderness Trail with Central Otago via Haast Pass and the national highway, this mammoth voyage serves up some dazzling scenery.
Haast © West Coast Tourism
TOP 10 THINGS TO DO ON THE WEST COAST
1. Hidden in the treetops
Using 450m of steel platform built 20m above the ground, weave in between dense forest, admiring the flora and fauna at West Coast Treetop Walks, then climb the spiraling 40m-high Hokitika Tower.
2. Golden Kumara
From boom to bust and back again, Kumara was the site of the last great gold rush in 1876. Read the information panels dotted around town and scattered along various walking trails.
3. Green jewels galore
Hokitika is located near a traditional source of pounamu (jade). Crafted jewellery and sculptures are sold here. Watch master carvers at work or have a go at carving your own.
Pounamu carving
Mountain Jade
4. All aboard for Shantytown
Shantytown train
Shantytown
Travelling 11km south of Greymouth will take you back in time over 200 years. Shantytown is a recreated gold-rush village with more than 30 authentic buildings, including the original 19th century church and schoolhouse. Enjoy a ride on a vintage steam train, pan for gold, experience a working sawmill, and dress up in olden day costumes.
5. Calorie-free pancakes
Pancake Rocks in Paparoa National Park are – as the name suggests – a formation of rocks that resemble stacked pancakes. Forged 30 million years ago, when dead marine creatures accumulated on the seabed, compressed and then formed several layers of limestone, they eventually nudged their way to the surface. Today, the pancakes are joined by erupting blowholes and a ferocious surge pool named the Devil’s Cauldron.
Pancake Rocks
West Coast Tourism
6. Waterway cruising
Explore the impressive wetland area of Lake Mahināpua on a West Coast Scenic Waterways Cruise. The lakes, creeks and swamps host an array of native trees, fish and birdlife.
7. Gold-coated Greymouth
As the largest town on the West Coast, Greymouth made a name for itself during the coal-mining and gold-rush eras. The History House is a museum packed with relics from this time, while nearby Brunner Mine Site was a significant mining location with coke ovens, a brick factory and tunnel remnants. Back in town, various jade stone galleries line the main street, and Monteith’s Brewery offers behind-the-scenes tours and pint-pulling.
8. Get in the boat – oar else!
Not far from Pancake Rocks, located in the Paparoa National Park, spend a few leisurely hours kayaking Pororari River’s rapids and eddies. Nearby operators provide all the equipment and the clean, crystalline water is surrounded by forested limestone shelves.
9. Black mirror
Lake Brunner receives so many tannins from surrounding rainforest, it’s almost black. This makes for startling reflections of the mountains. These glacial waters are a magnet for trout fishing devotees, boat trippers and outdoor enthusiasts embarking on one of the walks.
10. A wild west seaside town
A slower pace of life exists in Hokitika. Wild and rugged, with a moody coastline that meets magnificent mountains, Hokitika Beach is strewn with driftwood. The streets are abuzz with greenstone, glassware and textiles, and the buildings date back to 1860. Walks stretch out in every direction and 33km away, Hokitika Gorge is admired for its milky-blue glacial waters.
MORE MOUNTAIN BIKING, PLEASE
Reefton mountain biking
West Coast Tourism
HOKITIKA: Within rideable distance from downtown Hokitika, Blue Spur combines 32 single track trails. You’ll need advanced skills to negotiate the mix of rough and smooth.
GREYMOUTH: Navigate 4WD tracks on the Grade 3 Napoleon Hill mountain bike track. Riders need prior permission from the landowner. Visit www.doc.govt.nz for contact numbers.
REEFTON: Kirwans Track, Blacks Pt and Big River Rd and Hut are all Grade 3+ trails, with some technical sections reaching Grade 5.
HOKITIKA
Hokitika Beach
Getty Images
Hokitika is a town of many riches. Founded on a gold rush in 1864, it emerged as a bustling town with a roaring nightlife along its ‘golden mile’. Today, Hokitika retains much of that frontier-town countenance with its wild west features. Though quieter now, there’s still plenty of riches to discover – namely, pounamu.
Hokitika is located near a traditional source of pounamu (jade) and there is a range of expertly crafted jewellery and sculptures sold here. The town’s creative spirit is also evident in its interesting art and craft trail.
Hokitika’s coastline is an experience in itself. No visit is complete without a walk along the wild West Coast beach, awash with stories and strewn with driftwood.
At the National Kiwi Centre, you can view kiwi rummaging in dimly lit enclosures and see tuatara, native fish and 80- to 100-year-old eels.
For panoramic views of the Hokitika Valley and access to displays of the mining heritage of the area, head up to the Rimu Point Lookout at the top of Rimu Hill. The one-hour, 4km loop walk takes you over the Kaniere Bridge. Alternatively, pick up a leaflet from the Hokitika i-SITE and follow the Heritage Trail that loops the perimeter of the township.
Riding the West Coast Wilderness Trail
West Coast Wilderness Trail
