6 minute read
Hurunui Trail
KAIKŌURA to AMBERLEY - 3-4 days, 205km
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South Island’s rural beauty is all-consuming. This is a ride where you’ll stop often; bike stationed before yet another glorious landscape while you pause to appreciate the rolling views.
Fresh country air, punctured permanently, yet somewhat pleasantly, by the rich smell of farmland, the Hurunui Trail provides a quieter, safer alternative to SH1, through gorgeous countryside communities laced by large pastoral farms, tussock land, creeks, rivers,vineyards and hilltops crackled with remnants of snow.
Connecting Kaikōura to Canterbury, the trail can be ridden in either direction via a series of low traffic country roads. Cars are infrequent but trundling tractors must be expected. Cattle being moved may also slow your progress, but is there anything more delightfully rural than stopping to watch a farmer work their land?
The journey will see you crossing both the Kowhai and Waiau rivers, using a mix of seal and gravel roads over a mostly flat terrain, but with just enough segments of undulated track to allow for some fun slopes. Fling your legs up and re-enact childhood.
There is an opportunity just past the small village of Culverden to detour off the trail by 36km to Hanmer Springs. Cyclists feeling the aches of exertion will welcome the hot pools at Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa.
Back on the main track, solitude is an expected highlight; sometimes there will be nothing but you, the road and views as far as the eye can see, but keep a look out for ancient landforms chiselled into their new faces by the massive 2016 earthquake, the beautiful vineyards of the Waipara wine region and limestone outcrops along Pyramid Valley Rd.
Once in Christchurch, your ride expels its agricultural cloak, and the fizz, pop, whizz of a modern city takes centre stage.
TRAIL INFO
TRAIL GRADES:
KAIKŌURA TO MT LYFORD VILLAGE - GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
MT LYFORD VILLAGE TO WAIAU - GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
WAIAU TO CULVERDEN - GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
CULVERDEN TO HURUNUI BRIDGE - GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
HURUNUI BRIDGE TO WAIKARI TURN OFF - GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
WAIKARI TURN OFF TO AMBERLEY - GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Generally good with just two trail sections currently with no coverage – 50km of the Inland Kaikōura Rd (10km from Kaikōura through to Mt Lyford); and also a 12km section on Broxton, MacDonald Downs and Ram Paddock roads in the hills to the north of Amberley.
FOOD & WATER: There are numerous cafés and shops in all the towns on the route, with the longest unserviced stretch the 61km between Kaikōura and Mt Lyford Lodge.
TYPE OF BIKE: With approximately 20km of gravel, a sturdy touring style bike is recommended. E-bikes, with sufficient battery capacity, are permitted in accordance with New Zealand Road Code. Riders should ideally have basic mechanical skills and carry a tool kit; most villages on the route have general mechanical repairs available.
St James Cycle Trail
Canterbury Christchurch Tourism
RIDING THE TRAIL
KAIKŌURA TO MT LYFORD VILLAGE, 61KM - The ride starts by crossing the Kōwhai River via a ford and on to SH 70 – also known as the Inland Kaikōura Road. Entering rolling hill country, the route soon crosses from the Kaikōura District to the Hurunui, climbing several inclines and passing over the Conway River and the historic Doone Station and grave site. The landforms around here still show the effects of the massive November 2016 earthquake, with the road crossing faultlines and scars. From the high point at the Whalesback it is downhill to Mt Lyford Village where the lodge will be a welcome sight.
MT LYFORD VILLAGE TO WAIAU, 22KM - From the village, it’s a downhill run to the farming town of Waiau, the village most damaged by the 2016 earthquake and famous for its country hotel and ice creams.
WAIAU TO CULVERDEN, 30KM - After crossing the Waiau River, the route turns towards the Kaiwara Hills, with some rolling gravel roads before crossing the Amuri Basin to Culverden. Hanmer Springs is a 36km side trip up SH 7/7a. A popular visitor resort for its hot springs, cafés and mountain biking, it is also the gateway to the St James, Rainbow and Molesworth Muster trails.
CULVERDEN TO HURUNUI BRIDGE, 26KM - This largely flat, sealed section leaves Culverden in a westward direction to follow the edge of the Amuri Basin out to Balmoral Station. It then heads back to the Hurunui Bridge, on the south side of which is an historic hotel.
HURUNUI BRIDGE TO WAIKARI TURN OFF, 20KM - Another flat, sealed road section, this starts on SH 7 for 3km before heading off on quiet rural roads through Hawarden and on towards Waikari.
WAIKARI TURN OFF TO AMBERLEY, 45KM - The route turns to the west at Pyramid Valley Rd, famous for its limestone outcrops and winery. The route heads over the hill country of the Waipara Gorge, with 19.5km of gravel riding including several climbs. Care is required due to rural traffic, sheep, tractors, milk tankers among it.
Kaikōura countryside
Getty Images
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Get a taste of Hurunui’s backyard situated well away from the state highway and discover plenty of little townships frequented by few.
• Gorge on Kaikōura. Famed for its seafood, notably the plump crayfish, cute roadside food shacks such as Nins Bin ensure visitors are well fed.
• Kaikōura is also a haven for animal lovers, with various whale species, dolphins, albatross and fur seals all taking up residence in the area. Jump on a boat tour to get up close.
Dolphins, Kaikōura
Kai Schworer
• Sample the wine varietals in the boutique wine region of Waipara.
• Terrace Edge is a delightful family owned vineyard in Waipara, tended purely by hand. As well as exceptional grapes, the vineyard features a 2000-strong grove of olive trees. Enjoy a tasting of eight premium wines, extra virgin olive oil and fresh table olives.
Waipara vineyard
Getty Images
• Waiau was the village most damaged by the 2016 eathquake and famous for its country hotel and indulgent ice creams.
• Cosy Mt Lyford Lodge offers food, drink and accommodation.
• Charming inside and out, the historic Hurunui Hotel has held its licence continuously since 1860 and has maintained its vintage good looks. Nip inside for home brews and good food.
• Accommodation options include campsites, B&Bs, farm stays, motels and hotels.
• Spend some time exploring Amberley and soak up a bustling Christchurch.
TOP PLACES IN HURUNUI
CHEVIOT - Enjoy coastal scenery, wander through the The Cheviot Domain and experience 1850s rural life at Cheviot Museum. Nearby Gore Bay is a holiday hot spot,complete with surf and rock pools.
HANMER SPRINGS - This alpine town has excellent walks, ski fields and its highly praised Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa.
Vintage Cruiser, Hanmer Springs
Natasha Shearer
CULVERDEN - Browse the selection of paintings and prints by local artists at Culverden Gallery, with prices that won’t make you eyes water. The gallery has limited opening hours so call ahead.
WAIKARI - Come for the Māori rock drawings found on the Weka Pass Walkway and stay for breathtaking sunsets over the hinterland.
Frog Rock, Waikari
Getty Images
AMBERLEY - This relaxed rural town pours some of the area’s best coffee and Little Vintage Espresso serves a particularly good brew. Venture 17km south for the Old School Collective, a boutique retail complex operating out of a former school, complete with florist, gift store and antiques sold from revamped classrooms.
