9 minute read
MANAWATŪ Cycleway
BEST FOR: Pure escapism. Your only distractions are soaring cliffs and dramatic backdrops.
MANGAWEKA to PALMERSTON NORTH
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2-3 days/115km
There is more to the Manawatū Cycleway than first meets the eye. Tracing the quiet, backcountry roads connecting Mangaweka to Palmerston North, the colours somehow seem brighter here; the hues vivid and more defined. This off-the-beaten escape is not just a bike ride, it’ll completely re-establish your connection with nature.
A full two days is recommended to experience the Manawatū Cycleway, allocating plenty of time to stop and absorb the scenery, or to bunker down for the night at a farmland retreat. Every inch of this cycleway offers something retina-pleasing. The dazzling-white cliffs of Mangaweka defy the usual conventions of mountain peaks, instead, topping their creamy papa rock faces with a verdant green frosting. Nearby, Ruahine Dress Circle Reserve, so called for its opera-house aesthetics, offers an idyllic spot for picnics and swimming, and the Mangahuia Wetlands are so lush, one full inhale and you’ll feel replenished.
For glowworms, detour onto Table Flat Rd, or later, Totara Reserve. In autumn, the entire Pōhāngina Valley turns gold, while in summer, roadside blueberry picking is not only nostalgic, it makes for a great snack, too. The bijou townships of Rangiwāhia and Apiti throb with community spirit, and once you arrive in the bustling city of Palmerston North, a mecca of street art and sculpture, museums, history and culture awaits.
Raumai Reserve, Pōhāngina River © ManawatuNZ.co.nz
TRAIL INFO
TRAIL GRADES
ALL GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MANGAWEKA TO ĀPITI, 45KM
ĀPITI TO ASHHURST, 55KM
ASHHURST TO PALMERSTON NORTH, 20KM
MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is available in most places but not along the whole route.
DRINKING WATER: There are a number of settlements where you can fill your water bottle. River water should be boiled or treated.
TYPE OF BIKE: Road bikes and touring bikes are best suited for the terrain. E-bikes are also suitable. Riders should ideally have basic mechanical skills and carry a tool kit and spares.
Manawatū Cycleway © ManawatuNZ.co.nz
Riding the trail
MANGAWEKA TO APITI, 45KM
Ride past the Mangaweka Campground and over the bridge where you will be greeted with the impressive sight of soaring white papa (mudstone) cliffs and magnificent cobbled river terraces.Just 12km from the start of Ruahine Rd, you will find Mairenui Rural Retreat.Be sure to check out the Ruahine Dress Circle Scenic Reserve. This swimming and picnic spot off Lagoon Rd sits on a river bend and is surrounded by cliffs and dotted with waterfalls. Early settlers named the spot the dress circle because the cliffs reminded them of an opera house. The turn-off is 11km south of the Mangaweka Bridge.
At Mangaweka, stop off at Awastone for something to eat and drink at their café or take a rafting or kayaking trip along the Rangitīkei River.Rangiwāhia is only 10km from Mairenui. It has public toilets, campsites, free WiFi and interesting stories to tell.Get back on the road and head down Te Parapara Rd. Be sure to savour the views along this particularly scenic stretch.Lush farmland with the Ruahine Ranges as a backdrop greets you as you enter Main South Rd. Stop for a break at Mangahuia Wetlands, a series of ponds that are home to native birdlife and trout.Heading along Main South Rd, you’ll travel through the dramatic Mangoira Gorge. After the Gorge, you can take a detour by turning into Table Flat Rd (gravel) for some great panoramas alongside Table Flat Farmstay and the Limestone Creek Reserve glowworm cavesBack on Main South Rd, continue down and detour onwards into Āpiti for artist studios and camping at the Āpiti Domain.
ĀPITI TO ASHHURST, 55KM
On from Apiti, head back up Ōroua Valley Rd and into Pōhāngina Valley East Rd. There are some amazing photo opportunities as you wind your way down into the Pōhāngina Valley, especially in autumn when the foliage turns gold. In summer, look out for blueberry picking and swimming spots in the river.From the Valley Rd junction, it’s 26km to the small, basic Piripiri Campsite run by the Department of Conservation. Just down the road is Springvale Gardens and accommodation.This area is rich in native bush and has a good range of bush walks for all abilities. Head down past the historic Komako Church and you will find Totara Reserve, a playground of native bush, glowworm caves, swimming holes and campsites with great facilities.Another 12km on from here is Raumai Reserve, a great place to cool off in the river; there are also restrooms here.
Ride the trail down the road and turn left onto Pōhāngina Rd (on weekends, a 5km detour into Pōhāngina Village is worthwhile to visit County Fayre, a community-run tea room and heritage display site, and the nearby Cartwheel Creamery, award-winning makers of artisan cheese). You will pass by Valley Rd, which is home to Pōhāngina Valley Estate winery.Continue down Pōhāngina Rd for 8km to reach Ashhurst. Stop for coffee and baked goods from the local cafés or grocery shop, picnic on the village green, or explore Ashhurst Domain where there is camping available. Ashhurst Inn offers all day dining and good accommodation.
ASHHURST TO PALMERSTON NORTH, 20KM
From Cambridge Ave, turn left onto SH 3 (Napier Rd). Continue down and pull off to the left before the bridge, then ride down under the bridge and onto the first section of the Manawatū River Pathway. You’ll ride along for 3km before turning right onto Raukawa Rd, bringing you back out onto SH 3.
Turn right and head along SH 3, keeping to the shoulder for 2.6km then turn left onto Te Matai Rd. Follow Te Matai Rd until Riverside Dr. Turn left down Riverside Dr and at the end of this road is the second section of the Manawatū River Pathway. You’ll follow a gentle, undulating path that follows the Manawatū River into Palmerston North city for 6km. At the Fitzherbert Ave Bridge, take the path under and around the bridge to the right (where you can detour into the stunning Victoria Esplanade gardens and café) and head up Fitzherbert Ave. It’s just 2km to The Square.
For a longer cycle, carry on another 1.5km along the river pathway to the new He Ara Kotahi bridge which will take you across the Manawatū River, along boardwalks and through native bush to Linton Military Camp (5.6km). For a shorter 3.8km cycle, you can do the Fitzherbert Avenue Bridge to He Ara Kotahi Bridge Loop. Palmerston North City i-SITE has luggage lockers and showers and can arrange your bookings while providing you information on your next stop. ‘Palmy’ has plenty to offer the visiting cycle-tourer, including street art and a sculpture trail, plus Te Manawa Museum of Art, Science & Heritage and the New Zealand Rugby Museum. It’s also great for dining, with a range of cafés, restaurants and pubs dotted throughout the central city centre.
Make the most of Palmerston North
Nudging the banks of Manawatū River, maximise your downtime in Palmerston North.
1. Bike Rides
If you’re missing the saddle, jump back on for a skedaddle around the city. Skirt the banks of the Manawatū River on a 10km riverside jaunt or step it up a gear on the Grade 3 Turitea Loop Track.
2. Beer
Grab a cold one at Brewers Apprentice, or head to Brew Union on Broadway Ave for 21 taps all pouring the gold stuff. Just 30 minutes south of Palmerston North is the iconic Tui Brewery, featuring its recognisable brick tower, brew house, tours, café and free museum.
3. Mountain Biking
Palmerston North is jam-packed with mountain biking areas. Arapuke Forest Park (Grade 2-5) is the city’s premier mountain bike park for all skill levels but if you’re a total beginner, stick to the Jack Frost trail. In the surrounding Manawatū District, there’s Te Ara O Mahurangi (Grade 4) which is technical and downhill, as well as Takapari Rd (Grade 4-5) which climbs high into the Ruahine Range. For epic downhill mountain biking, try Kohitere Trig (Grade 3-4) in Kohitere Forest.
4. Museums
Te Manawa Museum of Art, Science and History is a must-do, with engaging exhibits that reflect the history in a way that’s meaningful to all ages. Right next door is the New Zealand Rugby Museum. You’ll find some of the world’s rarest rugby artefacts here.
5. The Square
With its striking clock tower and manicured lawns, The Square offers a peaceful sanctuary for everyone. The Māori name is Te Marae o Hine and within its borders there’s a pond, giant chess set, Māori carvings, interesting statues and scores of ducks. Come Thursday, The Square hosts a Food Truck Street Feast, with music and meals from around the world.
6. Street Art
In January 2020 a bevy of local and international artists were invited to help paint 20 murals emblazoned across the CBD. There now exists an impressive array of street art to soak up with both your eyes and your camera. Pick up a map from the Palmerston North City i-SITE to find the larger-than-life creations in all manner of unexpected places.
The Square, Palmerston North © ManawatuNZ.co.nz
Highlights of the trail
• Swim at the secluded Ruahine Dress Circle Reserve: waterfalls bathed in native forest.
• Found in an old dairy factory, the Rangiwāhia Environmental Arts Centre (REACT) reuses and upcycles almost anything into artwork.
• For handcrafted cheese from the Pōhāngina Valley, the Cartwheel Creamery is open for sales and tastings, by appointment only so call ahead.
• Travel 35km west of Palmerston North to the coast and eat fish and chips on Hīmatangi Beach, watch the sun set and then enjoy a twilight walk.
• Te Parapara Rd is particularly scenic, but no photograph does it justice. Seeing is believing.
• Detour one hour from Apiti for a 600m walk to Limestone Creek where there are caves, arches and glowworms.
• Entry to Mangahuia Wetlands is free. Pack a picnic and laze around the lake.
• Victoria Esplanade is a beautiful public garden in Palmerston North. Packed with rose gardens, barbecues, aviaries, croquet lawns and a miniature railway.
Mangaweka
At Mangaweka, the Mangaweka Adventure Company and campgrounds are the gateway to the playground of the Rangitīkei River, which is popular for river rafting and kayaking. In summer (and by special arrangement in winter) the fully licensed Awastone Café offers relaxed riverside dining with impressive views.
Offering top-notch food and a warm welcome, the Apiti Tavern is a great place to rest and refuel before the next leg. The Totara Reserve between Apiti and Ashhurst has good camping facilities surrounded by a large native forest. Bush walks, nature trails with glowworm caves and great swimming spots are all good reasons to spend some time here.
In Ashhurst, make sure you stop off at The Herb Farm, with its family-friendly gardens, day spa and great café. In summer, pop into the Ashhurst Domain for a swim in the Manawatū River. Te Apiti Wind Farm is always worth a look, affording a great view of the Manawatū and Wairarapa beneath the massive wind turbines.
Mangaweka Adventure Company and Awastone © Destination Manawatū
Add-on Heartland Ride
Tararua Traverse: 67km/1 day A challenging route over the Tararua Ranges. Check for closures: sections by taxi may be required.
