4 DAYS IN PARADISE: Great Barrier Island

Ready for an off-grid adventure, a slice of wilderness and an exotic island all rolled into one? Aotea/ Great Barrier Island is an oasis to rival Rarotonga, and it’s just 40 minutes from Auckland.

ESSENTIAL KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

• There are many campsites. DOC sites have simple amenities: long-drop toilets, cold outdoor showers and zero cooking facilities.

• Phone signal can be patchy.

• No signal for Google? Grab an island map from Claris Airport. Or download beforehand.

• There are various car rental companies on the island. Book ahead in summer.

• There are no taxis or public transport.

Mt Heal Hut, Great Barrier Island © Todd Eyre

• There are no rubbish bins. Purchase a council rubbish bag

from Claris and leave it with resident rubbish before 8am on Monday. Or drop it off directly at the Claris landfill.

• There are no banks or supermarkets, but local grocery stores are well-stocked and accept cards.

• Electricity is run solely off generators so don’t pack your hairdryer!

• Most things are more expensive than mainland New Zealand.

• Budget for roughly $3.11 per litre for petrol.

ABOVE: Dolphin, Hauraki Gulf © Auckland Unlimited

GETTING THERE

• Fly from Auckland Domestic Airport to Claris Airport in 40 minutes.

• Ferry from Auckland Wynyard to Tryphena Wharf in 4.5 hours. Good for foot passengers, cars, push bikes and scooters.

• The ferry and plane arrive and depart at Tryphena and Claris respectively: 17.5km from one another.

• The ferry has a small café and some indoor seating. On a bluebird day, sit on the bow and look for dolphins.

TRIED-AND-TESTED CAMPING ITINERARY: 4 DAYS/3 NIGHTS

DAY ONE: MORNING

Departing central Auckland at 8am, the SeaLink ferry shuttles its passengers to paradise in 4.5 hours, rolling over the turquoise waters of the Hauraki Gulf Marine, gliding past dolphins and the Jurassic-like terrain of Coromandel Peninsula.

Soon enough a hint of Aotea appears on the horizon, growing steadily until the deep hues of the ocean transform into ripples of mint-teal lapping Tryphena Wharf. By 12.40pm, luggage that has been stowed in a separate van (so don’t pack anything you might want on the crossing) is off-loaded, and pre-booked car rentals await retrieval.

You’re on island mode now, so cars are likely left unlocked, windows down and ready to go.

DAY ONE: NOON

Immediately, you’re in subtropical bliss. The road is narrow and windy from here on in, initially weaving a route away from the wharf in a flurry of verdant flora and flashes of beach peeking through the gaps.First stop – refreshment! Drive 10 minutes to Tryphena village, snatching glimpses of sugary soft sand as you go. Home to Pa Beach Café, park up for an alfresco lunch by the water.

Around about now the pull of the ocean – in all its sparkling blue glory – proves irresistible. Throw on your togs and walk barefoot across the road to Pa Beach. Sheltered by coastline, there is little wind and no waves, resulting in a lagoon-like bay licked by golden sand. Perfect for a lazy afternoon of sunbathing and safe swimming.

DAY ONE: NIGHT

Head to The Currach Irish Pub for an early dinner. Based in Tryphena, you can practically fall from the beach into the beer garden.

Come early evening, we suggest making camp at Medlands Beach, one of the more popular campsites on Aotea and favoured for its reliable surf conditions. The small, gated paddock is located just minutes from silky beach and there’s a tidal stream with surrounding short walks.

At low tide, a mermaid pool forms around Memory Rock. Look for the large outcrop midway along Medlands Beach and hop in.

Great Barrier Island enjoys almost zero light pollution and was awarded Dark Sky Sanctuary status in 2017. The galaxy-stained night sky is phenomenal. Make the most of it with a Good Heavens stargazing experience. Group tours take place at Medlands Beach, combining thousands of stars, telescope viewings, a knowledgeable guide and a big mug of hot chocolate.

For private stargazing experiences, the Good Heavens team will come to you. Your location must have a clear view of the sky, with Tryphena, Medlands and Ōkupu highly recommended.

Night sky, Great Barrier Island © Ariel Camera Limited

DAY TWO: MORNING

Start your day the right way with an early morning swim, surf or stroll at Medlands Beach and then walk to Station Rock Lookout. A short, 30-minute jaunt from the beach itself, the last 170km are steep but the farreaching views are worth every puff. You can reward your hourlong hike with brunch at My Fat Puku in Claris, a 20-minute drive east from Medlands.

Claris is the island’s premier services hub so stock up on provisions and petrol from The Store and Mobil gas station. There is also a bottle shop.

Leave the car parked and wander to Claris Community Heritage and Arts Village, with its small but delightful art gallery packed with mementoes, and a bijou museum housed in 1922 Gray Cottage. A pleasant, two-minute stroll leads to Claris Airport, past a series of fun, brightly painted rocks hiding in the grass.

Out to surf, Great Barrier Island © Auckland Unlimited

DAY TWO: NOON

While in Claris, hire an electric motorbike from Motubikes and explore the backroads. A full New Zealand driver licence is required but with no pedals, chains or gears, it’s the easiest way to have a windin-your-hair adventure.

For lunch today, drop the bike off in Claris and walk to nearby Swallow, a laidback burger shack. Sit on the grass and tuck into one of their lauded deep-fried mussel burgers.

Back on the road again, drive north from Claris to Awana Bay in 20 minutes. With its enormous campground, epic surf and long sheet of pearlescent sand, a lazy afternoon is on the cards.

DAY TWO: NIGHT

Fire up the barbie for snags and steaks devoured to the soundtrack of Awana’s waves.

ABOVE: Barbecue sausages © Markus Spiske

DAY THREE: MORNING

Blow out the morning cobwebs on the Windy Canyon walking track from Awana, a 15-minute climb past sheer rock face to a spectacular viewpoint. There are numerous steps to ascend but working up a sweat will serve you well for the next attraction: Kaitoke Hot Springs.

It’s a 12-minute inland drive to access the walkway to Aotea’s all-natural hot spring. Snaking through native bush rustling with fantails, the 30-minute walk is both easy and serene. Soon enough, the trees part and a secret lagoon is revealed, cradled in greenery and brimming with hot, sulphurous water. Relax into New Zealand’s most wallet-friendly spa experience.

Kaitoke Springs, Aotea Track © Todd Eyre

DAY THREE: NOON

How does an isolated sliver of sand and crystal-clear water sound? Whangapoua Bay and campsite is a 45-minute drive from Kaitoke Springs and seldom busy. When the tide’s out, the sea is barely visible on the horizon, but the estuary flows temptingly to its edges, perfect for quick dips and a shallow but fast flowing current to float along.

DAY THREE: NIGHT

Port Fitzroy is located on the northern side of the island, favoured by boaties and home to Akapoua Bay Campsite. There is no beach here, but a small, driftwood-littered bay hosts a scattering of yachts.

Kererū / wood pigeon © Shellie Evans / Department of Conservation

Before day’s end, venture to Glenfern Sanctuary, a 15-minute walk from the campsite. Run by a family, this privately owned hideaway is flush with native flora. Highlights include a swingbridge, duck pond teeming with brown teal ducks and exceptional island views from Sunset Rock. The birdlife is abundant and you’ll encounter pāteke, kāka and kererū. Entry is free but a donation goes a long way in maintaining this marvel.

DAY FOUR: MORNING

Your ferry departs Tryphena Wharf at 3pm today but that leaves plenty of time for a relaxed morning.

Immediately opposite Akapoua Bay Campsite is Warrens Track, a 10-minute walk to a waterfall, complete with swimming lagoon. After a quick dip, continue along the pathway for a further 50 minutes and you’ll find yourself at Port Fitzroy General Store. Grab a cold drink and stroll back to camp.

Great Barrier Island © AA Traveller

DAY FOUR: NOON

It’s a one-hour drive back to Tryphena Harbour from Port Fitzroy but a stop en route at Harataonga Bay will allow for some excellent snorkelling right offshore.

As you near Tryphena Wharf for your return ferry to Auckland, don’t miss Shoal Bay Pottery, just minutes from the marina. This small studio is owned by successful artist, Sarah Harrison and her medley of ceramic wares make the perfect departing gift.

© SeaLink

ESSENTIAL CAMPING PACKLIST

• Stove and gas/portable barbecue.

• The full camping shebang: utensils, pans, pots, plates etc.

• Washing-up liquid.

• USB car charger – there is no electricity if you’re camping.

• Torch and headlight.

• Thermals for sleeping. It drops to cool at night even in the height of summer.

• Solar panel charger.