5 minute read
Island Hopping by Kayak: Bay of Islands
Discover pockets of untouched paradise and entire beaches all to yourself. With just a dash of civilisation, spend three days kayaking the beautiful Bay of Islands.
THIS ESCAPADE BEGINS ON THE BEACH... START AS YOU MEAN TO GO ON.
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Launch from Long Beach, just over the brow from Russell. It’s the closest strip of mainland to Motuarohia/Roberton Island and for a few extra bucks, Bay of Islands Kayaking Tours will drop your kayak off on the sand.
Leaving early means the water is calmer but allow at least 30 minutes to pack three days’ worth of your life into a 3.5-metre vessel. But where there’s a will there’s a way.
It’ll take 30 to 60 minutes to cross the water to Motuarohia Island. Here are the Twin Lagoons, famed for their crystal-clear water and dazzling marine life. Before donning your snorkel, climb the bluff to the lookout.
A large wooden deck presents far-reaching views; golden beach meets aquamarine water meets sparkling yachts.
Urupukapuka Island © Camilla Rutherford
Now for a bit of chop. From Motuarohia, Moturua Island is in eyeshot, but the water isn’t protected by motu so 30 minutes of graft is required to navigate the waves. Fortunately, you can head for any stretch of sand; the entire island is a circuit walk so anywhere you stop will form a loop.
Moturua takes roughly two hours to walk but with so many irresistible coves and snorkelling, allow twice that. Army Bay is renowned for its abundant fish life and on land there are trenches and a military pillbox. The birdlife delivers a constant cacophony of tweets, chirps and singsong, all thanks to Project Birdsong. The native species are well protected and they, along with their orchestral lungs, have flourished.
Kayaking in the Bay of Islands © Adventure HQ
Come late afternoon, push off towards Urupukapuka Island, giving yourself a good hour to get there. This ocean-licked expanse is peppered with pleasure boats and passenger ferries, so brace for larger ripples.
Upon nearing Urupukapuka, look out for Explore ferries; they will be heading in and out of Ōtehei Bay (which can be hard to locate from the water). Once on land, there’s a choice of three DOC campsites, all of which sit to the right of Ōtehei.
Kayaking in the Bay of Islands © Adventure HQ
CAMPSITES ON URUPUKAPUKA ISLAND
• SUNSET BAY: Closest to Ōtehei Bay, where the ferries dock, there’s a licensed bar. Also the closest site to row to from Moturua Island. However, spaces are limited to two (lucky) tents.
• CABLE BAY: The next site along from Sunset Bay, accommodates up to 20 tents.
• URUPUKAPUKA BAY: The furthest campsite to kayak from Moturua Island. Largest campsite on the island with space for 60 tents.
*Book campsites in advance and expect basic amenities: long-drop toilets and cold showers.
Camping in New Zealand © Getty Images
WAKE UP TO SEA VIEWS FROM YOUR TENT.
A fantastic variety of walks are accessible from every campground on Urupukapuka Island and all three sites are within a 10-minute walk of Ōtehei Bay and its beachfront café.
For a full-day excursion, leave the kayak moored to the beach and stretch your body poles. Walks range from easy to steep and you’ll find some undulating terrain on every path.
Connect onto the right paths and you’ll drop into Indico Bay within the hour. A small cove of serene water, it’s seldom busy and provides the ideal spot for swimming and elevenses.
Urupukapuka Island, Bay of Islands © Getty Images
Dry off, march on and join the Pateke Loop which connects with the Clifftop Pā Loop – an unmissable section of the island which climbs skyward via a series of stairways. Exposed cliff bluffs tumble precariously into deep corridors of ocean, guaranteed to take your breath away. Stop for a picnic at the top of an elevated crag, where the views stretch for miles.
Fantail / pīwakawaka © Getty Images
Heading back to Ōtehei Bay, link onto the Paradise Bay Loop and midway you’ll drop into Paradise Bay itself. Deserving of its moniker, flop and drop. The sand is sugary fine and the water is a delicious shade of teal.
Drunk on sea and sunshine, saunter back to Ōtehei Bay in 45 minutes. Frosted pitchers of beer and bar food awaits. Live music is often on the agenda and the 10-minute walk back to camp is easy when you’re full and merry.
PACK UP AND PUSH OFF!
Time to pack up the kayak again, albeit a little lighter now you’ve eaten all the supplies. A last hurrah in the placid waters of Cable Bay will relax your muscles; the rocky outcrop is good for snorkelling and fossicking.
If you’re feeling energetic, detour into Ōtehei Bay for a final island coffee. Ordinarily the beachfronting beanbags are highly sought after but at this time of day you’ll be able to sit and sip in solitude.I
Return via Moturua Island for stops at empty bays you didn’t discover the first time and repeat your stint at Twin Lagoons. The pools are just metres from the water’s edge and the marine life always stages a different performance. Stingrays aren’t uncommon so keep your eyes peeled.
Oystercatcher © Alan Cressker
Back on board, point your kayak in the direction of the longest strip of sand; Long Beach was aptly named. It’ll take an hour to reach shoreline but on a bluebird day, the seabed – at least 20 metres below – is fully visible, and when the water’s glass-like, it’s an absolute pleasure to slice though.
Bay of Islands © Northland Tourism
Once back on the mainland, Bay of Islands Kayaking Tours will pack up your vessel. Long Beach has a small coffee cart should you be needing refreshments or you could revisit the water for one final frolic in the Bay’s irresistible waves.
