BeeWear : Can Humans become pollinating agents? by Abhishek Soman

BeeWear by Abhishek Soman

BeeWear

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Can humans become pollinating agents through responsive wearables?â&#x20AC;?

Institute for Advanced Architecture of Catalonia 2018 - 2019

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Sincere and heartfelt thankyou to the people who supported and helped me in various possible ways during my thesis journey -

First and foremost deepest gratitude and respect to my thesis guide Prof. Marcos Cruz for listening to the idea of the project and guiding me with complete enthusiasm. Making me understand that failures are part and parcel of success and the learning process. Giving me full freedom of concept development, getting me on track whenever I digressed from the initial plans and most importantly giving me the time to rethink and figure out how to overcome the roadblocks in design development and fabrication methods. To Núria Conde Pueyo for giving me a new perspective on learning and integrating biology related to ‘BeeWear’ at different scales. Helping me amalgamate and create a scientific base for the project. Supporting me at every step and pushing me to write about the consolidated scientific research. Dr. Mathilde Marengo with her constant positive attitude towards the project and guiding me in rationally developing the methodology during the development process. Thank you for boosting my morale during the lows and lost phases. Special Thank you to Rafael (Tresdenou) for printing my prototypes at short notices and on time. I would also like to extend my sincere thanks to Ashkan Foroughi for helping me with the computational conundrums at the prototyping stage and to Yasmina El-Helou for being thr narrator as well as the model for the project video. A big thankyou to all my close friends from the MAA02 and IaaC family for their constant direct and indirect support without which staying sane wouldn’t have been impossible!

CONTENTS

i. Abstract 1. Introduction 1.1 Pollination: Phenomenon, Animal and Plant relationship 1.2 Types of Pollinators and pollinating parameters 1.3 Bees as pollinators 1.4 Global environmental and agricultural impact 1.5 Pollen Types 2. New potentials 2.1 Humans as pollinating agents 2.2 Clothes as potential surfaces and interfaces 2.3 Textile and Apparel Industry 2.3.1 Sustainable approach 2.4 State of the art projects ii. Project Development and Methodology Overview (chart) 3.Phaneroceptive Tectonomy concept and approach 3.1 Conceptual wearable designs 3.2 Bee hair replication and initial module 3.3 3D printed parametric prototypes 3.4 Magnified images of prototypes 3.5 Macro scale design - BeeWear 4.Urban scale scenario 4.1 Affecting parameters 4.2 Parameters for flora selection 4.3 Urban movement and fuctionality 4.3.1 Vibrating Sensors for pollen dispersal 4.3.2 Toxic particles from air 4.4 BeeWear mobile application 5. Economics and Feasibility 6. Conclusions 7. List of Figures 8. Bibliography

ABSTRACT

In the Anthropocene of complex living systems and networks, behavioral phenomena play a crucial role in sustaining ecosystems and the livelihood of diverse, interdependent species. Pollination is one such bilateral relationship between animals and flowering plants that help each other co-exist. Bees are considered as one of the most effective and active contributors in the process of pollination among other animal species. Decrease in their population due to multiple factors has led to an environmental imbalance globally, affecting not only the natural landscapes and agriculture on a large scale but also the Earth’s biological metabolism. This research project proposes a wearable concept - for humans – designed through the principles of biomimicry and its functionality that could potentially assist and aid pollination in urban areas (cities), semi-urban regions, and natural habitats. The umbrella of wearables is comprised of clothes and accessories designed to cater the wearer. Although, majority of the current wearables behave solely as an intermediate layer of protection and for accentuating visual creativity through fashion and trends; Contemporary technology has added the layer of performative concepts, accommodating information gathered by the external environment or stimuli. These concepts focus on, and are majorly directed towards an individual’s health or creating awe of aesthetics with advanced mechanisms. The performative potential lacks the integration of an active ‘response’ contributing to the surrounding environment. ‘BeeWear’ reflects its functionality concerning the pollination backdrop, drawing parallels between humans and bee navigation and travel behavior. This approach is composed of studying bee morphology, a series of design iterations based on natural interaction and scale optimization, functionality, geometries, fabrication processes, and supplemental fashion aesthetics. It caters to a holistic design aid, bridging the gap and re-establishing the link between humans and other species, by playing a proactive role in responding - actively and passively - towards the environment, refurbishing individual and social awareness and finally rethinking about the envelope of wearables.

Keywords: Beewear, responsive wearables, pollination, bees, hair, pollen.

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INTRODUCTION How can “Clothes as potential interfaces” between the “human as a wearer” and the “surrounding environment”contribute directly or indirectly to the environment regarding a specific “issue”? To exploit these interfaces through research and experimentation that could be receptive to the environment considering an “issue in focus”. Philosophically and physically integrating nature with wearables by blurring the lines of the current clothing envelope which are mainly made for wearer’s benefit and needs. A radical thought process of this clothing envelope and its use apart from only protecting and covering human bodies. Evolving the relationship between the wearer, the clothing envelope and the surrounding environment through parameters such as form, function, responsive behavior, textures and material. This research takes the opportunity of focussing on an environmental issue that can be aided and engaged with on a personal level and urban scale. Hypothesis Can wearables assist in the natural pollination anthropocene with pollen receptive envelope for human tectonomy (tectonics + anatomy) through performative textures, forms, geometries and material for collecting, (storing) and dispersing pollen? 1.1 Pollination: Phenomenon, Animal and Plant relationship [ Importance, Travel based / Species based , Interdependency ] Nature has abundant fascinating species that adapt and co-exist within different ecosystems. Some plants release their pollen in the air, but some other species of plants need assistance for pollination. Pollination is the act of transferring pollen grains from the male anther of a flower to the female stigma. The goal of every living organism, including plant, is to reproduce. Successful pollination allows plants to produce seeds. Seeds are key to producing the next generation of plants, which provide food for the next generation of pollinators and other wildlife.1 Pollinators range from mammals to birds to insects. Preserving and restoring plant-pollinator interactions is crucial, not only to save natural ecosystems but also to assure the future viability of human agriculture. Twothirds of wild plants depend on animal pollinators, as do three-quarters of crop plants. Habitat fragmentation and overuse of pesticides are threatening to extinguish these vital plant-animal interactions are argued in the book, The Forgotten Pollinators, by Stephen L. Buchmann and Gary Paul Nabhan. Depending on their habitat and direct or indirect interaction with surrounding pollinating flowers, each animal species contributes towards a balanced ecosystem. These animals are either pollen carriers or the vectors in 1 Simple Truth Brochure, pollinator.org

specific pollen dispersion. Pollination is travel based as pollen from one flower species needs to be transported to the same species but not necesarrily in the same vegetational zone. Thus traveling is a critical part in transportation of pollen in decentralising erractic quantitative growth of the same species concentrated only in one particular area. The physical interaction between the bee and the flower helps the flower to deposit pollen on the bees. Some peculiar species have developed a unique relationship with each other. Two such relationships evolved over the years is that of the Figs - Fig wasp and

Figure 1.1 Orchid Bee on an Orchid

Figure 1.2 Fig Wasp on fig flower

Orchids - Orchid Bee. As seen above the shape and size of the Orchid and Orchid bee corrspond to each other. Orchid is easily able to deposit its pollen on the back of the bee for it to carry and deposit when interacts with another orchid. Similarly the fig tree and pollinating fig wasp association is a classicexample of a coevolved mutualism.2 “Flowers give food and insects help in intertwine. When they are linked in a win-win situation, as flowers and their pollinators is mutualism” as quoted by Dan Puplett. This interdependency is global. 1.2 Types of Pollinators Contribution of each type of pollinator varies from region, size, type, food, color, and interdependacy with flowering species of plants that need a carrier of a distributor of their pollen for species survival. Below are two charts for the types and aspects of their relationship with corresponding floral species. These can be broadly categorized in to living and non-living sections and could be further classified in detail. 80 percent of all the flowering plants are pollinated by pollinators.3 2 Cruaud A, Rønsted N, Chantarasuwan B, Chou LS, Clement WL, et al. (2012), An extreme case of plant-insect co-diversification: figs and fig-pollinating wasps.Syst Biol 61: 1029–1047. 3 Pollinatpors under pressure, Michael Hill, Enterprise team landscape architect, US Forest Service

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Left : Figure 1.3 Types of Pollinators (Chart)

Right : Figure 1.4 Po Pollen and Pollinator parameters

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1.3 Bees as pollinators [behaviour and morphology] The main insect pollinators, by far, are bees, and while European honey bees are the best known and widely managed pollinators, there are also hundreds of other species of bees, mostly solitary ground nesting species, that contribute some level of pollination services to crops and are very important in natural plant communities. Bees make excellent pollinators because most of their life is spent collecting pollen. 4 A constant intimate interaction with flowers for nectar makes their body surface filled with hair collect pollen easily. The match between pollinator body region hairiness and plant reproductive structure morphology is a powerful predictor of pollinator effectiveness.5 Bee hair acts as a brush, the gaps and density of bee hair help further in holding the pollen as pollen surface and bee hair both have an oily external surface to an extent. Individual bees tend to focus on one kind of flower at a time, which means it is more likely that pollen from one flower will be transferred to another flower of the same species by a particular bee.6 This helps particularly in cross-pollination which is required for reproduction of many flowering plants which do not depend on water or air-borne pollination. Not all pollen is used or goes back in the pollination loop for reproduction. The collected pollen on bee-hair is brushed by the bees and collected and stored in pollen kits/sacs on their hind legs. This pollen is later taken back to the nest and is either stored or used to feed the young ones. Observational studies suggest that insect body hairs are important for collecting pollenthat is used by insects for food and larval provisioning.7 Hairs facilitate active pollen collection, e.g., many bees have specialised hair structures called scopae that are used to transport pollen to the nest for larval provisioning.8 Pollinator hairiness is strongly linked to pollination an important ecosystem function. Thus one can understand the importance and critical necessity of incect or bee hair and its fuction in the process pollination. 1.4 Global Environmental and Agricultural impact of pollinating population [scientific data, decreasing population and impact] The global thematic assessment of pollinators, pollination and food production published last year by the Intergovernmental Science-Policy Platform on Biodiversity 4 Pollination, Native plants and ecosystem services, Department of Etymology, Michigan State University 5 Stavert et al. (2016), Hairiness: the missing link between pollinators and pollination. PeerJ 4:e2779; DOI 10.7717/peerj.2779 6 Stavert et al. (2016), Hairiness: the missing link between pollinators and pollination. PeerJ 4:e2779; DOI 10.7717/peerj.2779 7 Holloway BA. 1976. Pollen-feeding in hover-flies (Diptera: Syrphidae). New ZealandJournal of Zoology 3:339350 DOI 10.1080/03014223.1976.9517924. 8 Thorp RW. 2000. The collection of pollen by bees. Plant Systematics and Evolution 222(1):211223 DOI 10.1007/BF00984103.

halictus Ligatus (sweat bee)

melipona beecheii (stingless bee)

Female Eucera (rosae bee)

apis Mellifera (honey bee)

peponapis Pruinosa (squash bee)

Male Bombus bimaculatus bee

Female Anthophora affabilis bee

Megachile fortis bee

Female Halictus Ligatus with Pollen

Figure 1.5 Types of bees

Figure 1.6 Measured Vaues for the bristle geometries of the honey bee eye and grooming leg. Measured froma single worker honeybee

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and Ecosystem Services (IPBES) clearly outlined the vital role played by pollinators in supporting food production, natural ecosystems and human well being. It showed that wild pollinators have declined on regional scales in North West Europe and North America, but that there aren’t enough data to make such general statements for the rest of the world.9 Pollinator declines are a growing social and ecological issue and one that is not sufficiently recognised.10 The data collected in Europe and USA suggest our agricultural dependancy in terms of food production is largely affected by the decine in pollinator population, specifically bees. The variety of plants and food products we get is due to the pollinators, for example, cows eat alfalafa which is pollinated by pollinators, but we are dependant on cows for milk.11 The dependence is not just for our food necessities, but also for other species that are interconnected in various food chains and micro eco systems. But when it comes to agricultural product that is directly consumed by humans or used in any type of food is largely dependeant on honey bees and other sub species of bees and butterflies. More than one third of all the bee colonies in the United States have perished and about 40 percent of the remaining may face extinction in the coming decade.12 One major factor affecting their population is ‘habitat loss’. It is either due to food availability for the bees throughout the year or the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides that adversely affect not just the crop but the bees dependant on them as well. Colonu Collapse Disorder (CCD) is another reason for population decrease as the bees are put under pressure due to imbalance in the ratio of (excessive) bee population and floral vegetation (nectar quantity). 1.5 Pollen Types [scale, form, textures] Plant pollens are microscopic particles exhibiting a remarkable breadth of complex solid surface features.13 Pollens have different surface textures that help them to attach and stay inact huddled amidst bee hair. Pollen grains are additionally coated with an oily liquid thatb resides on or whithin the cavities of the exine wall.14 This is crucial for pollen adherence which helps them quickly sticks to the bee hair. The adhesion of particles to

9 Foreword - Simon Potts, Co-chair of the IPBES global pollination assessment and Professor of Biodiversity & Ecosystem Services, University of Reading for The pollination deficit: Towards supply chain resilience in the face of pollinator decline 10 Foreword -Andre de Freitas, Executive Director, Sustainable Agriculture Network for The pollination deficit: Towards supply chain resilience in the face of pollinator decline 11 Pollinators under pressure, Dr. Kimberly Winter, Naturewatch National Program leader, U.S. Forest services 12 Pollinators under pressure, Scott Hoffman Black, Executive Editor, Xerces Society 13 Haisheng Lin, Ismael Gomez and J.Carson Meredith, Pollenkitt Wetting Mechanism Enables Species-Specific Tunable Pollen Adhesion, School of Chemical & Biomolecular Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 311 Ferst Drive NW, Atlanta, Georgia, 30332-0100, United States 14 Haisheng Lin, Ismael Gomez and J.Carson Meredith, Pollenkitt Wetting Mechanism Enables Species-Specific Tunable Pollen Adhesion, School of Chemical & Biomolecular Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 311 Ferst Drive NW, Atlanta, Georgia, 30332-0100, United States

Figure 1.7 World map showing agriculture dependence on pollinators (i.e., the percentage of expected agriculture production volume loss in the absence of animal pollination (categories depicted in the coloured bar) in 1961 and 2012, based on FAO dataset (FAOSTAT 2013) and following the methodology of Aizen et al. (2009).

Figure 1.8 Decline of pollinators in percentage

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Figure 1.9 Importance of pollinators with five main parameters for seven different aspects

Figure 1.10 Actions needed to improve knowledgeamong different sectors (in %)

Figure 1.11 Importance of actions needed to tackle the decline in specific sectors (in %)

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surfaces has been of long-standing interest to scientific investigation of many natural and environmental phenomena, including pollination15. Thus the dispersing process needs the bee to brush its hair like a comb to remove the pollen or brush it off on another flower of the same species. Another important factor in the pollen and bee hair relationship is the size of these micro particles. Pollen grains > or = 100 μm and < or = 10 μm constitute less than 4% of the total. Bees have evolved specialized hairs to collect and transport extremely large, extremely small, and tangled (interconnected) pollen.16 The dimensions of pollen grains range from 5 - 210 μm with a mean of 34 μm. 97 percent of the total pollen range from 10 μm to 100 μm (average size range).17 Pollen below 10 μm are considered smaller than usual and the ones above 100 μm are considered larger than usual. Smaller pollens are generally smooth without having an oily outer cover and are mostly pollinated by air borne or water borne ways. There can be multiple ways in which pollens can be used after being collected. Pollen could be used directly or as biotemplates to produce microparticles for encapsulation and dispersal (sensors, drug delivery, and agrochemical delivery), promoting stability and delivery of contents over long time and distance spans.18 Due to their micro scale and protective outer shell, pollens are considered to be industructible in nature. Genetic and bilological information can is stored in pollen which can be retrieved via radiocarbon dating and a whole new world of a specific era can be unfolded through the scientifc information. Region based plant and pollen sizes can be looked for a consolidated pollen species documentation to understand the regional diversity.These small particles play a major role in this research project with three other crucial components that of the Hair. the Human and the Urban.

2. NEW POTENTIALS The various facets of pollinators and pollination such as its importance, necessity, human and ecological dependancy or its behavioral loop system, all of these give us an understanding of the tremendous potential it has at its core function for macro and mirco (species) interdependancy. With around 7.7 billion people around world we as humans have the potential to directly or indirectly affect, support or indulge in any enviornmental issue at differnt hierarchial, group or individual levels, on a daily basis, as 15 Haisheng Lin, Ismael Gomez and J.Carson Meredith, Pollenkitt Wetting Mechanism Enables Species-Specific Tunable Pollen Adhesion, School of Chemical & Biomolecular Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 311 Ferst Drive NW, Atlanta, Georgia, 30332-0100, United States 16 -17 Radclyffe B. Roberts and Steven L. Vallespir, Specisalization of hairs bearing pollen and oil on legs of bees. (Apoidea : Hymenoptera, Etymological Society of America, 1978. 18 Haisheng Lin et.al., Pollenkitt Wetting Mechanism Enables Species-Specific Tunable Pollen Adhesion, School of Chemical & Biomolecular Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 311 Ferst Drive NW, Atlanta, Georgia, 30332-0100, United States

Dandelion Pollen

Olive Pollken

Poplar Pollen

Dandelion Pollen Texture Olive Pollen Texture

Ellipsoid - psilate

Ragweed Pollen

Sunflower Pollen

Poplar Pollen Texture Ragweed Pollen Texture Sunflower Pollen Texture

Sphere - granulaye - rugulate

Cylinder - rugulate

Figure 1.12 Types of pollen, pollen textures and shapes

Figure 1.13 Experiment with commercial pollen attached to a bee, time and pollen dispersal quantity analysis

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per individual convenience, destination and route based or due to seasonal variations in the pollen production. 2.1 Humans as pollinating agents As humans we travel through multiple spaces and locations in a day or a week. We tend to choose our path from location ‘A’ to location ‘B’ or from ‘B’ to ‘C.’ Similarly, bees travel to specific flower and path, interacting with same flower species in a single journey, increasing the flowers potential to get pollinated. It is called Single Visit Pollination (SVP). This urban movement of humans and bees leads to a co-relation point considering the basics - travel - destination - travel (with a pupose). Flower for bees for nectar and a local or regional landmark or place for humans. Though the purpose for humans is not necessarily related to food or work always, leisure and recreational travel adds up. This behavior of (humans) starting from point A - going to point B - point C and back to point A and ( bees) starting from point A - going to point B - point B1 and back to point A (assuming there might be points D,E,F and so on for humans and points B1, B2, B3 and so on for bees) have a similar patterns of traveling. The concept and location of the intermediate, pre-final or final destination is known and the path is chosen accordinly. While traveling on this path our body and clothing envelope acts as an intermediatory protecttive layer or covering between our skina and the immediate environment. Secondly surface area (body exposed to the environment) of single adult human being is far more greater than that of an adult working bee. It creates a greater potential to capture air-borne as well as on-flower pollen to a considerable extent. Adding a support link to the pollination loop to preserve and grow the reducing species and pollinator habitat is the key intervention of this project. 2.2 Clothes as potential surfaces and interfaces [ Case Study ] Five of the most common fabrics in the United States (cotton, wool, polyester, silk and linen) were used to trap pollen. The five fabrics were placed at a collection site in rural, suburban, and urban habitats in Rhode Island for a 24 hour period at weekly or biweekly intervals throughout 2002–2003.19 Pollen captured from the fabrics was collected and acetolysed for scientific purposes and counting the number of pollen and their sizes. Per sq.cm. pollen was estimated and calulated to be around 200 grains using a haemocytometer. A variety of pollen types were identified. Collecting the pollen from clothing fabrics determine the capacity of these clothing materials to collect passive pollen. But after one wash a considerable amount of pollen is washed off and eliminated from the fabrics. The first washing removed greater than 99.9% of the pollen. Pollen 19 Michael.S.Zavada et. al., The role of clothing fabrics as passive pollen collectors in North-Eastern United states, Department of Biological Sciences, East Tennessee State University, Johnson City TN, USA and 2Department of Biology,Providence College, Providence, RI, USA

Figure 2.1 Comparison and parallels between human (urban) movement and bee travel.

Figure 2.2 TThe collecting apparatus showing the vertically mounted needlepoint hoop, and the dowel that was driven into the ground to a height of about 1.5 m

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recovered from clothes may qualitative suggest proximity to unique species or habitats, and may mirror quantitative and qualitative seasonal variation that will establish the exposure of the clothing to a particular seasonal airborne pollen profile, and possibly place the collection of the sample in a specific time frame and/or a specific location20. This passive already existing behavior between our clothing envelope and these micro particles give rise to a unique connection than can be functionalized in a manner that would establish a stronger and informative bond between these three elements - our body (vector), clothing envelope (collector) and the pollen (reproducer). Results and Conclusions as specified in the Case Study : The pooled data for the five different fabrics at the three locations (15 samples in all) ranged between 0 - 1485 pollen grains per square centimeter. Apart from difference in days, there are no significant differences among the fabric types with regard to their ability to trap particles at a higher or lower rate in comparison to the other fabric types. Seasonal trends of pollen producing quantity can be estimated clearly where the pollen intervals are spring and fall. On peak pollen producing days a T-shirt of about 5000sq.cm can collect upto 7,000,000 pollens in 24 hours.21 This case study throws light on differents aspects and importance of our existing relationship with pollen via our clothes. Thus clothing material and its active-passive fuctionality plays a significant role in adding humans (currently invisible) in the process of pollination who can potentaially assist and support the cyclic loop. 2.3 Textile and Apparel industry In the era of fast fashion, collections and rapidly changing trends one thinks less about the need of what one buys before buying it. The fashion industry has gained the status of a trillion dollar industry over the years.22 With the continuous increase in the global population estimated by the United Nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Department of Economic and Social Affairs (December 2017 report), the need and use of clothing will also increase in parallel. As the Fashion and Textile industries are both consumer-driven, the demand and production are directly related to and dependent on each other. The rapid escalation in the process of production is due to the current market scenario of fast fashion which brings in new collections almost every week. This trend of fast fashion is also reducing the life of the product, directly affecting their quality and the amount of textile waste produced after its short-term use. The pollution caused by the fashion industry is not only dependent on the life of the garment but also on the kind of materials and dyes are used during the manufacturing process. For example, in 2017, the total consumption of polyester fibers was dominated by polyester yarn, which accounts for about 69% of the overall 20 Michael S. Zavada et. al 21 Michael.S.Zavada et. al., The role of clothing fabrics as passive pollen collectors in North-Eastern United states, Department of Biological Sciences, East Tennessee State University, Johnson City TN, USA and 2Department of Biology,Providence College, Providence, RI, USA 22 Fashion United - Independent International Industry Network

consumption of the global fiber market.23 On the other hand commercial textile dying uses approximately 3,500 human-made chemicals, including lead- and petroleumbased substances, according to the Swedish Chemicals Agency Report. From consuming energy and resources to creating pollution in production and disposal, it is necessary to analyze and inform these prevalent linear cycle of production - consumption - waste. 2.3.1 Sustainable approach This project looks at sustainability through the lens of its functionality. The active and passive response of the wearable and userâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s active participation in natural process has a large potential in creating an awareness. Individual engagement on a daily or seasonal basis to preserve and maintain species and pollinator habitats that would also act as the ecological and vegatational lungs of a local area, city or region. Materiality and durability are a continuous developing lines with newer and cheaper (least or most) sustainable materials and fabrication methods. Biomimicry is used in learning, understanding, and recreating the feel and usage of naturally occuring elements (bee hair) for broader concepts yet at an individual level. 23 Chemical Economics Handbook, IHS Marktit, June 2018

Figure 2.3 Project Issue in relation to the Fashion, Textile, Apparel and Accessories Industry with the global environmental and consumerist scenario

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2.4 State of Art Projects [ A : Projects related to pollination ] a. The Human Pollination Project by Laura Allcorn : The designer has created an apparatus that can be used carefully to remove, store pollen manually and re-apply it onto the next one. Bee hair mimicry is used during the re-application of the pollen.

Magnifying Wand to distinguish between Tweezers to individually pluck Anthers Soraper for finger mobility and efficient anther and pollen bearing part with ease pollen removal

Container for storing the removed pollen Appliator with six brush arms mimicing Final stage of application fuzzy body of a bee Figure 2.4 The Human pollination project by Laura Allcorn

b. Japanese cherry tree hand pollination

Figure 2.5 Cherry Tree Long neck brush hand pollination

[ B : Projects related to micro hair replication ] a. Cilllia by MIT Media Lab - Tangible Media Group : This work presents a computational method of 3D printing hair structures.24 Resolution up to 50 microns. These customized is said to have super fine surface texture; mechanical adhesion property; new passive actuators and touch sensors on a 3D printed artifact.

Figure 2.6 Cilllia (micro hair replication) and parametric modules

b. Surfers suit by Patagonia : A new material modeled on cold-water animalsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; coats could lead to thinner, warmer wetsuits.25 It is a sheet of rubberized hair that mimics the pelt of beavers and otters. The material used is PDMS a low viscousity silicone.

Figure 2.7 Polydimethyl siloxane (PDMS) micro hair replicated sheet

24 Jifei Ou, Gershon Dublon, Chin-Yi Chen, Mike Wang, Liang Zhou, Felix Heibeck, Hiroshi Ishii / Tangible Media Group, MIT Media Lab, 2016 25 Graham Averill, Outside, Your next suit will mimic otter fur, 2016

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PROJECT CONCEPT

PROJECT DEVELOPMENT PROJECT DEVELOPMENT

RESEARCH PARAMETERS

[WORK IN PROGRESS]

BEES

INSECTS

Shape RODENTS WATER

POLLINATION

AIR

Texture

Scale

MORPHOLOGY

BIRDS

Passive Collection

HUMANS

MECHANISM

CLOTHES

POLLEN

FLOWERS

ENVIRONMENT ISSUE

AFFECTING PARAMETERS

HUMANS AS POLLINATING AGENTS

Active Dispersion

DESIGN

Human - Flower Int

M Organic / Natural Inorganic / Synthetic

MATERIAL TYPES

Degradable Non Degradable

Scalability

Surface Treatment

DESIGN GEOMETRIES

Com

Toxic

WEARABLES pre-production

WASTE

manufacturing process post-production

MATERIALS

Project Development and Methodology Overview 28

CT DEVELOPMENT

PROTOTYPE TESTING

ORK IN PROGRESS]

FINAL RESULT

Seasons Species

FECTING AMETERS

Colors Allergies

Human Pedestrian Movement

Pollinating Hubs/Parks

Modifying Urban Landscape

Interiors

URBAN SCALE SCENARIO

Friction

HANISM

Vibrating Micro Motors

Urban Impacts and Redesigning

Static Charge

Human - Flower Interaction

ESIGN METRIES

TERIALS

PROTOTYPES

Pollen Capture Testing

Micro Hair Contoured Texture Scaled Components Muscle Morphology

Stereolithography

FABRICATION PDMS silicone

Micro molding and Casting 3D Printing

Bio Plastics Resin Kombucha Leather

PHANEROCEPTIVE WEARABLE

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3.PHANEROCEPTIVE TECTONOMY CONCEPT AND APPROACH Phanreoceptive (phanerogams + receptive) Tectonomy (Human body tectonics and anatomy) is a design approach that combines the behavior of the wearable equally integrating the design factor as per the human body (lines, curves, movements and body parts). Individually studying both these layers and combining them to form a single wearable that responds actively yet selectively is the primary position of this project. 3.1 Initial Wearable Concepts a. Orbicular Formations : Taking inspiration form pollen sacks situated on the hind legs of bees for pollen collection, these forms were developed to explore the juxtaposition of various bulbous volumes in connection with the human body. The interweaved pattern with interlinked connections were proposed to capture and maximize air borne pollen. Different parts of the body, their shape, joints, size and movements set the parameters for design and volume exploration.

Figure 3.1 Orbicular forms and human body volumetric study and juxtapositioning

b. Chaotic Growth : To capture air borne and floral pollen, a controlled yet organic growth patterns inspired from leaf like and hair like forms was digitally designed and studed in relation with the human body. The niches and micro cavitities created due to the chaotic dense growth patterns were to store the captured pollen for later use.

Figure 3.2 Orbicular form design for arm, shoulder and back (partially)

Figure 3,3 Chaotic controlled growth with leaf patterns

Figure 3.4 Chaotic controlled growth with parametric hair patterns

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c. Pollen Pods : The idea behind this concept was to capture pollen in smaller pods with the help of wind pressure and its interaction created while walking or vectoral movement in any direction. Keeping in mind the earlier chaotic growth concept, the small niches were organised further creating pod like shapes for sucking in pollen from the air and invariably storing it for future use. The growth patterns was tested on various parts of the body also for aesthtic purpose from the fashion point of view. These pods were made to have needle like hair inside them so that the captured pollen gets entangled in them for systematic release or removal whenever necessary. The pods were 3D printed in black flexible material (filaflex). The maleability and flexibility of the material was used as a tool which could react to the body movement. The flexible printed organic pods released air when pressurized and sucked in the air when the pressure was released. The shapes were designed in such a way that these pods molded and reacted with the pods surrounding them or adjacent to them to create a combination of behavioral patterns. The limitations to all these designs were the resolution and intricacy needed to interact with pollen, surrounding environment and react to human body movements efficiently.

Figure 3.5 Pollen pods and its aesthetic performance

Figure 3.6 3D printed pod cluster with filaflex

Figure 3.7 forms of pollen pods and sectional view in its non-distorted form

Figure 3.8 Close Up view of the 3D printed pollrn pod cluster

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3.2 Bee Hair replication and Initial module With the initial studies and understanding bee morphology and importance of hair in the bi-lateral relationship with pollen the focus narrowed dwon on replicating bee hair and marcro scale textures that could interact in a similar manner but not exactly like bees. Microscopic and micron scale structure and organization of the bee hair was studied to digitally replicate it first. The initial attempts to replicate bee hair ranged from, using clay and sieve, waste micro fibers on silicone sheets, conventional 3D printing to newer methods like SLA (stereolithography) and DLP (digital light processing). The first module of SLA printed hair was on area of 1.5cm x 3cm with a height of 1 and 1.5cm. These modules are the basis of experimentation and prototyping that could be expanded and spanned of the marco design through wearables increasing the surface area for pollen capture.

Figure 3.9 (Left) SLA printed module with 1cm height (Right) Single hair with base radius of 1mm

Figure 3.10 Prototype 1 printed in transclucent flexible photopolymer

Figure 3.11 (Left) Microscopic image of bee hair. (Right) Digital replication of parametric hair by author

Figure 3.12 Prototype 1

Figure 3.13 Plan view of Prototype 1

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3.3 3D printed parametric prototypes The parameters used to parametrically design the prototypes includes: Base radius, top radius, height variation, material type, adjacent distance between two hair strands.

Base Radius : 100 - 300 μm Top Radii : 50 μm Adjacent Distance between hair 50 μm - 300 μm Max height : 10mm

Base Radius : 50 - 260 μm Top Radii : 50 μm Adjacent Distance between hair 200 μm - 750 μm Max height : 10mm

Base Radius : 75 - 220μm Top Radii : 50 μm Adjacent Distance between hair 70 μm - 500 μm Max height : 10mm

Base Radius : 65 - 130 μm Top Radii : 5 μm Adjacent Distance between hair 80μm - 260 μm Max height : 10mm

Base Radius : 50 - 150 μm Top Radii : 50 μm Adjacent Distance between hair 50 μm - 350 μm Max height : 10mm

Base Radius : 50 - 200 μm Top Radii : 50 μm Adjacent Distance between hair 50 μm - 400 μm Max height : 10mm

Figure 3.14 Stage two Prototypes (6 nos.)

Figure 3.15 Hair typologies to trap pollen

Figure 3.16 Printed selective prototypes with Digital Light Processing methods (in no particular order)

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3.4 Magnified images of prototypes

Figure 3.17 Microscopic imagery of prototypes

Figure 3.18 Microscopic imagery of prototypes

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Figure 3.18 Sectional teeth like micro hair

Figure 3.19 Top and Base of the First Module

Range 2000 - 3000 Îź

300 - 500 Îź

Figure 3.20 Height and distance betweem adjacent hair

3.5 Macro scale design - BeeWear The division of parts has been carried out taking inspiration from the muscles lines of the arm. Parts have been carefully designed to fit with a boundary of 14cm x 7cm required as per DLP machines.

Figure 3.21 Total parts composed to create the Macro Prototype of Beewear

Figure 3.22 Macro scale design of (arm) BeeWear

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4 URBAN SCALE SCENARIO The wearable in an Urban scenario is dependant on human travel behavior. But in addition to that it can potentially and positively alter the urban landscape and vegetation. Certain urban parameters in relation to the wearable and pollination are listed below. 4.1 Affecting Parameters a. Seasons: pollen release and pollen producing days are dependant on seasons. Seasonal cycles vary from region to region and month to month. Thus the usage of the wearable could be limited to the pollen producing and releasing seasons such as autumn and summer (varying months as per the region). b. Species: Each species has a specific period in the year, longer or shorter depends on the plant species, geographical and climatic conditions. Local and native species would maximize its pollinating potential. c. Allergies: A considerable amout of people are allergic to pollen. Though this phenomenon is common, the basis of this project is not curing allergies or protecting people from pollen. But is a supporting and adding an external limb in assisting in the vital and necessary ecological process of pollination. d. Interior Spaces: Interior spaces also might get altered. To prevent the pollen from entering the interior spaces and adversely affecting the household population, cloak rooms or intermediatery spaces to keep the wearable might add a new dimension of space dynamics in the interior house areas. 4.2 Parameters for Flora Selection As the research and process of the entired project has been based in Barcelona, Spain a plant inventory as an example for selected depending on three parameters : Native species of Spain, Height range between 1ft - 3ft from the ground and protruting stamens that expose the pollens which makes it easier for physical interaction. Shown on the right are some of the species suitable for â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;BeeWearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Species from each locale, city, region or country can be categorized based on the above mentioned parameters. Another parameter can be added which is of plants pollinating via air borne pollen.

Figure 4.2 Parameters for plant selectection : rnative, height range, and protruding stamen

WINTER

JAN DEC

FEB

NOV

AUTUMN

SEASONS

MAR

MONTHS

OCT

SUMMER

APR

SEP

MAY

AUG

JUN JUL

SPRING

Figure 4.1 Affecting parameters - seasons and months (less and high intensity of pollen production)

ACIANOS

ACONITO NAPELLO

ORNAMENTAL ONION

ANEMONE NARCISSIFLORA

ENGLISH DAISY

PLUMED THISTLE

CANDYTUFT

MARSH MARIGOLD

EVENING PRIMOSE

YARROW

HOLLYHOCK

SCABBOUS

Figure 4.3 Selected species of flowers (example) as per three mentioned parameters

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4.3 Urban movement and fuctionality To have a balanced behavior that can correspond to environment that allows ‘BeeWear’ to perform is equally necessary. Urban vegetation and green spaces are the key drivers behind the getting all the elements playing an important role together. Green spaces can be categorized in a non-linear yet hierarchical manner. The spaces can be divided as per their type, size or geo-location. Linear planted vegetation along walking tracks, footpaths - Arteries. Major roads for transport with pedestrian movement continuing on the sides - Connectors. Parks, urban hillocks, round abouts, main crossings, playgrounds and spaces similar to these, where they have a possibility of movement withing a limited enclosed or non enclosed space (having physical, visual or non-visual boundary) - Hubs. The user can pick any hub close to his/her home, work place, in between or anywhere in the city to pollinate by actively engaging with the local green spaces and native species. 4.3.1 Vibrating Sensors for pollen dispersal: One vibrating sensor per three - four printed pieces (depending on the size, location on the arm and hair density) is attached from behind. It is connected to a switch spearately for the upper and lower arm of ‘BeeWear’. The user can selectively vibrate the pieces at specific loactions after certain distances. User will also be able to select the intensity of vibration depending on the pollen size and the intensity needed to disperse specific pollen within size range. 4.3.2 Toxic Particles in the air: Toxic and harmful particles from air have a size range <10μm. The bracket of pollen range ‘BeeWear’ deals with is between 10μm to 100μm. Thus the adjacent spaces between the fabricated his equal to or more than 10μm, giving less chance for the toxic particles to get attached or stay rooted in any part of the wearable. 4.4 BeeWear mobile application The mobile app will help the user connect more see, understand and analyze his/her pollination performance. [a] The user can choose/select his/her current geo-location. [b] As per the location BeeWear App will show independant pollinating hubs nearby. [c] The user can also fill in a destination, the app will suggest possible routes that come under arteries, corridors, and hubs. Thus the user can select the path as per their choice. [d] It will also show the which species needs pollination and which season or month is good for particular species to pollinate. [e] The user will get daily updates of their interaction with BeeWear and species and which species they have so far pollinated. [f ] Each week/month the user will get a pollination score, making it a bit competitive and encouraging them to increase the score.

Figure 4.4 Urban lungs and green corridors of Barcelona city as an example

HUBS

Figure 4.5 Potential hubs and green corridors of the city

Figure 4.6 Potential landscape options (plantation areas) for plant species

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5 Economics and Feasibility Currently the process of bio-mimicing, replicating and fabricating micro hair is comparatively difficult and expensive than conventional 3D printing. The options available in materials that are feasible for such micro precision are limited. Apart from photopolymers and resin, PDMS (poly dimethyl siloxane) is a type of silicone which is used for micro molding. Using PDMS in a limited financial situation is not feasible, as the machinery required for the entire process is exclusive and used only in labs where similar micro-molding activities and processes are carried out. Dow Corning’s Sylgard 184 elastromer kit is usually preffered by people wworking with PDMS for micro molding. The cost of 50ml of PDMS with a mixer is approximately 200$ or more. Thus this project due to its limited economical budget focussed of DLP printing with resins. Different resins have different properties - color, cost, precision capacity, flexibility and texture. The second huddle in the DLP fabrication is the size of machines available. Currently the commercially available machines at a small scale have a printing area of about 100sq.cm. which invariably limits the sizes of pieces to be printed. It adversly affects the printing time for the entire design. The time for sending a piece to print, getting it printed, removing it and then cleaning it with an alcohol based liquid adds up with each piece. Due to this the cost of each piece also increases. Each part of ‘Beewear’ costed 14Euros. Total number of pieces (upper and lower arm) add up to 18. Masks, shoulder pads, Calf pads, and gloves are other design options that can be explored to suit the fuctionality of ‘BeeWear’. Thus with each step of design research and fabrication methodology ‘BeeWear 1.0’ will keep developing and evolving in different directions in the coming years. Project Timeline: Research and concept development : October ‘18 - January ‘19

(four months). Prototyping, design and fabrication: February - June ‘19 (5 months)

Abhis he k S oman

6 Conclusions Wearables or the fashion and apparel industry being one of the largest in the world, with each individual being a part of it directly or indirectly has a tremendous reach globally. Taking advantage of human movement and our constant interaction with our direct surroundings is the cusp at which this project germinates. In the Anthropocene of wearables that peek into the future possibilities of applications, ‘BeeWear’ places itself in a realm that can be accessible by all age groups around the globe. The basic principles behind ‘BeeWear’ are egalitarian. By making human a part of the local as well as larger eco-systems and natural loops instead of looking at ourselves separately from rest of the species. The core idea of ‘BeeWear’; thus responds to a broader multi-scalar scenario taking inspiration from naturally available behaviors of species that let each other flourish. As newer technologies evolve with innovation due to the demand and need, the cost of production will start to optimize with scaled-up production, making it more feasible and viable for fabrication methods and concepts like such to attain reality. Opening up synthetic possibilities of bio-mimicry to gain a specific objective by superimposing a performative layer of second skin would enable humans to take an active role in aiding habitat security to the surrounding flora and fauna. With success in capturing pollen of different scales with varied hair densities they can be either collected for a pre-decided function or it can be released back in the natural loop of pollination. It will also push the otherwise diminishing pedestrian movement in the cities to interact with urban greens. Inserting layers of digital interaction via apps in documenting individual social behavior for self awareness would generate curiosity in knowing individual's input and efforts in fulfilling social responsibility with minimal efforts and maximum engagement. Pollinating Hubs have a potential in creating niches to initiate new livelihoods of indigenous vegetation, that could behave as the spatial lungs for the neighboring settlements in urban or semi urban areas. A holistic approach having a strong scientific base and rationale creates a viable design that initiates dialogue for collaborative expertise to expand the horizon of application based products - helping humans and nature simultaneously to bridge the gap that is increasing between the two.

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7. List of figures Figure 1.1 Orchid Bee (Euglosinne Bee) on an Orchid flower. Figure 1.2 Fig wasp in the process of finding nectar and depositing pollen in the ovules of a Fig plant. Figure 1.3 Types and categories of pollinators (chart by author). Figure 1.4 Pollinators and pollinating parameters. Figure 1.5 Type of bees, photos courtesy Sam Droege and the USGS Bee inventory and monitoring lab. Figure 1.6 Measured Vaues for the bristle geometries of the honey bee eye and grooming leg. Measured froma single worker honeybee. Figure 1.7 Dependence on pollination of agriculture in 2012 at the country level (Safeguarding pollinators and their values to human well-being) , Simon G. Potts, Vera Imperatriz-Fonseca, Hien T. Ngo, Marcelo A. Aizen, Jacobus C. Biesmeijer, Thomas D. Breeze, Lynn V. Dicks, Lucas A. Garibaldi, Rosemary Hill, Josef Settele & Adam J. Vanbergen, Nature volume540, pages220â&#x20AC;&#x201C;229 (08 December 2016). Figure 1.8 Decline of pollinators in percentage, EU pollinators initiative, Summary of the results of the Public consultation. Figure 1.9 Importanc eof pollinators for five parameters of the seven selected aspects, EU pollinators initiative, Summary of the results of the Public consultation. Figure 1.10 Actions needed to improve knowledgeamong different sectors (in %), EU pollinators initiative, Summary of the results of the Public consultation. Figure 1.11 Importance of actions needed to tackle the decline in specific sectors (in %), EU pollinators initiative, Summary of the results of the Public consultation. Figure 1.12 Types of Pollen, Pollen Textures and shapes, Photos courtesy - Haisheng Lin, Ismael Gomez and J.Carson Meredith, Pollenkitt Wetting Mechanism Enables Species-Specific Tunable Pollen Adhesion, School of Chemical & Biomolecular Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 311 Ferst Drive NW, Atlanta, Georgia, 30332-0100, United States. Figure 1.13 Experiment with commercial pollen attached to a bee, time and pollen dispersal quantity analysis. Figure 2.1 Comparison and parallels between human (urban) movement and bee travel. (by author) Figure2.2 The collecting apparatus showing the vertically mounted needlepoint hoop, and the dowel that was driven into the ground to a height of about 1.5 m, Michael.S.Zavada et. al., The role of clothing fabrics as passive pollen collectors in North-Eastern United states, Department of Biological Sciences, East Tennessee State University, Johnson City TN, USA and 2Department of Biology,Providence College, Providence, RI, USA . Figure 2.3 Project Issue in relation to the Fashion, Textile, Apparel and Accessories Industry with the global environmental and consumerist scenario. Figure 2.4 The Human Pollination Project by Laura Allcorn. Figure 2.5 Cherry tree hand pollinated with long neck brushes: Photo courtesy Kevin Frayer. Figure 2.6 Cilllia by Tangible Media Group at MIT Media Lab, USA. Figure 2.7 Polydimethyl siloxane (PDMS) micro hair replicated sheet by Patagonia, USA. Figure 3.1 Orbicular forms and human body volumetric study and juxtapositioning Figure 3.2 Orbicular form design for arm, shoulder and back (partially) Figure 3,3 Chaotic controlled growth with leaf patterns Figure 3.4 Chaotic controlled growth with parametric hair patterns

Figure 3.5 Pollen pods and its aesthetic performance Figure 3.6 3D printed pod cluster with filaflex Figure 3.7 forms of pollen pods and sectional view in its non-distorted form Figure 3.8 Close Up view of the 3D printed pollrn pod cluster Figure 3.9 (Left) SLA printed module with 1cm height (Right) Single hair with base radius of 1mm. Figure 3.10 Prototype 1 printed in transclucent flexible photopolymer. Figure 3.11 Microcopic image of bee hair and Digital replication of parametric hair by author. Figure 3.12 and 3.13 Prototype 1 Figure 3.14 Stage two Prototypes (6 nos.) digital representation of prototypes. Figure 3.15 Hair typologies to trap pollen. Figure 3.16 Printed prototypes with Digital Light Processing methods (in no particular order. Figure 3.17 - 3.19 Microscopic imagery of prototypes. Figure 3.20 Height and distance betweem adjacent hair. Figure 3.21 Total parts composed to create the Macro Prototype of Beewear. Figure 3.22 Macro scale design of (arm) BeeWear. Figure 4.1 Affecting parameters - seasons and months (less and high intensity of pollen production) Figure 4.2 Parameters for plant selectection : rnative, height range, and protruding stamen. Figure 4.3 Selected species of flowers (example) as per three mentioned parameter. s Figure 4.4 Urban lungs and green corridors of Barcelona city as an example. Figure 4.5 Potential hubs and green corridors of the city. Figure 4.6 Potential landscape options (plantation areas) for plant species. Pg Nos 48, 49,50 and 51 Images of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;BeeWearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; amidst Urban Vegetation.

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8. Bibliography: Simple Truth Brochure, pollinator.org Cruaud A, RĂ¸nsted N, Chantarasuwan B, Chou LS, Clement WL, et al. (2012), An extreme case of plant-insect co-diversification: figs and fig-pollinating wasps.Syst Biol 61: 1029â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1047. Pollination, Native plants and ecosystem services, Department of Etymology, Michigan State University. Stavert et al. (2016), Hairiness: the missing link between pollinators and pollination. PeerJ 4:e2779; DOI 10.7717/peerj.2779 Holloway BA. 1976. Pollen-feeding in hover-flies (Diptera: Syrphidae). New ZealandJournal of Zoology 3:339350 DOI 10.1080/03014223.1976.9517924. Thorp RW. 2000. The collection of pollen by bees. Plant Systematics and Evolution 222(1):211223 DOI 10.1007/BF0098410 Foreword - Simon Potts, Co-chair of the IPBES global pollination assessment and Professor of Biodiversity & Ecosystem Services, University of Reading for The pollination deficit: Towards supply chain resilience in the face of pollinator decline Foreword -Andre de Freitas, Executive Director, Sustainable Agriculture Network for The pollination deficit: Towards supply chain resilience in the face of pollinator decline Pollinators under pressure, Dr. Kimberly Winter, Naturewatch National Program leader, U.S. Forest services Pollinators under pressure, Scott Hoffman Black, Executive Editor, Xerces Society Haisheng Lin, Ismael Gomez and J.Carson Meredith, Pollenkitt Wetting Mechanism Enables Species-Specific Tunable Pollen Adhesion, School of Chemical & Biomolecular Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 311 Ferst Drive NW, Atlanta, Georgia, 30332-0100, United States Radclyffe B. Roberts and Steven L. Vallespir, Specisalization of hairs bearing pollen and oil on legs of bees. (Apoidea : Hymenoptera, Etymological Society of America, 1978. Michael.S.Zavada et. al., The role of clothing fabrics as passive pollen collectors in North-Eastern United states, Department of Biological Sciences, East Tennessee State University, Johnson City TN, USA and 2Department of Biology,Providence College, Providence, RI, USA Fashion United - Independent International Industry Network Chemical Economics Handbook, IHS Marktit, June 2018 Jifei Ou, Gershon Dublon, Chin-Yi Chen, Mike Wang, Liang Zhou, Felix Heibeck, Hiroshi Ishii / Tangible Media Group, MIT Media Lab, 2016 Graham Averill, Outside, Your next suit will mimic otter fur, 2016

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