1__ 67 Steps Beach Stairway to heaven
Beaches on the North Fork have their own unique vibe. While the ocean beaches on the South Fork are beloved for their soft sand and crashing waves, the beaches here are more laid-back. The north-facing ones offer expansive views of Long Island Sound, while beaches facing south look out over Peconic and Gardiners Bays. The shorelines tend to be more rocky, but the waves are warmer and more gentle – perfect for swimming. You’ll find show-stopping views at 67 Steps Beach, hidden on the dead end of a residential road in Greenport. Step onto the wooden landing, and you’ll see sweeping views of the sea with its glistening cerulean and emerald-tinged waters. You’d swear you have landed on a private plage on the French Riviera. The 67 wooden steps bring you down to the shoreline, where soft pebbles crunch beneath your feet. In the summertime, it’s the perfect place for a secret swim. During the rest of the year you can hang out on the big beachside boulders and simply stare out into the endless blue. The tiny parking lot here requires a local permit, so you may want to ride your bike or have someone drop you off. It’s worth the effort. One beach where you can park your car is the beguiling Orient Beach State Park (40000 Main Road, Orient, NY). It’s located on the far eastern tip of the North Fork with some 45-thousand feet of shoreline. Looking out over Gardiners Bay, you can glimpse wildlife like blue heron and osprey. It’s great for kayaking or fishing, and there are plenty of picnic sites with covet-worthy views. Then, for a classic family beach, head to the public Town Beach in Southold (53005 County Road 48, Southold, NY). Here you will have broad views across the Long Island Sound. On a summer afternoon, the shoreline is filled with beach chairs, umbrellas, and swimmers. After a full day of visiting area vineyards, it’s the perfect place to watch the sun go down. 10
Address 67 Steps Beach, 66 Sound Road, Greenport, NY 11944 | Getting there NY 25 to Greenport, north on Sound Road to the end, local parking permit required | Hours Daily 6am – 10pm | Tip Located on a bluff with panoramic water views, have a sip of Riesling at the handsome Kontokosta Winery (825 North Road, Greenport, NY11944, www.kontokostawinery.com).
2__ Amber Waves Farm Where female farmers rule
It’s the cusp of summer, and some two dozen guests are seated at a long, wooden table – placed right out in the farm field. A chef is preparing the special menu with fruit, vegetables, and herbs – all freshly picked from a field just yards away. The sun sets. Fireflies flit past. The twinkling sky is laid out above – this is what summer is all about. These regular A Night at the Farm dinners are the very DNA of Amber Waves Farm in Amagansett. Run by two women, Amanda Merrow and Katie Baldwin, the emphasis here is on biodiversity, delicious food, and conviviality. The two met after college on a farming apprenticeship nearby. They opened this organic non-profit farm in 2009, and now, with the help of a group of female farm apprentices, they raise more than 300 varieties of vegetables. They also reintroduced wheat to the Eastern Long Island food community. Farming here is always about people. Visit their farm market on Main Street, and you’ll see the rolling fields right behind, where you can see the crops up close. Then in the market, pick up some carrots, collards, corn, beets, basil, and leeks, all freshly picked. You can also eat like a farmer in their little café, where they serve porridge, openfaced sandwiches, and fish tacos. Have a seat under the gigantic trees and picnic in the open air – Amagansett style. Throughout the summer, they offer regular DIY pizza-making nights in their outdoor wood-burning oven, with fresh toppings right from the field. Children and families can visit the chickens and meet with farm educators, who can teach them all about plants. There are music offerings and even occasional performances inspired by the fruits and flowers all around. But there’s nothing quite like their dazzling dinners under the stars – a communal celebration of bounty and fellowship. Keep an eye on their website for dates, as the dinners sell out fast. 12
Address Amber Waves Market, 367 Main Street, Amagansett, NY 11930, +1 (631) 267-5664, www.amberwavesfarm.org | Getting there NY 27 to Amagansett Main Street | Hours See website for seasonal hours | Tip Staying at Gansett Green Manor, with its little cottages hidden behind Main Street, makes you feel like a local (273 Main Street, Amagansett, www.gansettgreenmanor.com).
3__ The American Hotel Bar Sag Harbor’s most civilized spot
The wall is covered with paintings, the lighting is low, and there’s a big moose head hanging in the corner. Have a seat at the bar to debate the merits of a good Negroni or tuck into the corner for some backgammon and fondue – it’s all about old-style elegance here. “It seems everyone eventually ends up at the American Hotel,” admits hotel spokesperson Taylor Berry. “It’s just a matter of time.” This soaring brick structure has been lording over Main Street in Sag Harbor since 1846. It fell into disrepair but was revived in 1972 by the present owner. Ever since then, it’s been the go-to place for writers, musicians, politicians, artists, locals, and tourists. People say the cozy bar has a cinematic, European feel, with its rattan chairs, wispy ferns, and tiny table lamps. Writer John Steinbeck used to hang out on the porch. Singer Billy Joel is known to stop in for a night cap. But mostly it’s the sense of familiarity that brings people here. Even first-time visitors start to feel like regulars. No doubt many secrets have been spilled in this dark paneled bar, a sort of modern- day speakeasy. And presiding over it all are the beloved bartenders, the stars of the show. “They can pour a perfect martini or make a margarita with a secret ingredient,” Berry admits. “They are part priest, part therapist, part bartender.” In the summertime, the cozy front porch is the best place to watch the Hamptons world go by. Graceful white columns and crisp tablecloths set a very civilized tone. Fresh flowers dot the tables, while boxwood plantings frame this intimate space. Countless business deals have been hatched here amidst stories of the old days, when the police would handcuff prisoners to the porch if the jail located just behind was full. This bar is filled with history, good cheer, and camaraderie – a sort of communal living room for the entire town. “We are a constant,” admits Berry. “You enter as strangers but leave as friends.” 14
Address 49 Main Street, Sag Harbor, NY 11963, +1 (631) 725-3535, www.theamericanhotel.com | Getting there NY 27 to Bridgehampton, Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgehampton Main Street | Hours Daily noon – midnight | Tip Visit the tiny ca. 1916 Old Jail Museum right behind the hotel, where prisoners were once kept. Open late May – Columbus Day by appointment only (70 Division Street, Sag Harbor, www.sagharborhistorical.org/the-old-jail-museum).
Address 1100 Village Lane, Orient, NY 11957, +1 (631) 521-3711 | Getting there NY 25 to Orient, to Village Lane | Hours Times and days vary, open many weekends | Tip Take a beach walk at Orient County Park (41425 NY 25, Orient, www.suffolkcountyny.gov/Departments/Parks/Our-Parks/Orient-County-Park).
75__ Osprey Nests Big birds up close
These Ospreys certainly have taste – after all they’ve built their nest right in the middle of “Billionaire Lane” (aka Meadow Lane) in Southampton. This narrow strip of land gracefully winds between the Atlantic Ocean and Shinnecock Bay. And with the best water views around, some of New York’s top financiers, designers, and celebrities have bought mansions here. It’s splendor in the Hamptons. But about halfway down the lane on the right, you’ll find a long wooden dock that leads out into the bay waters. Surrounded by whispery grasses, it’s a peaceful place to watch the hypnotic East End skies. And at the end of the dock, you’ll spot a tall pole with a giant nest on top. Look closely, and you’ll likely see an adult osprey resting on top of this open-air home. Like some of the billionaires around, he guards his property tenaciously. There was a time in the 1960s when ospreys were dying out in this area, casualties of the pesticide DDT, used to control mosquitoes. The chemical caused the outer shell of osprey eggs to become so thin that adult birds roosting on the eggs would crush them. But in recent years, conservationists like the Group for the East End have been giving these sea hawks a hand, providing tall poles and wooden platforms on which to build nests. They’ve placed the poles near bodies of water all over the East End, and in recent years, the osprey population has been rebounding. Look up, and you may see these cunning birds gliding by, with wingspans several feet wide. Their faces are snow-white, bisected with a dark eye stripe, making them look like bandits as they dive into the water to snatch up small fish. Their double-jointed talons come in handy, helping them to grasp the slippery treats. And just like the billionaires all around, these ospreys are just seasonal residents in Southampton, as they migrate to the Caribbean during the winter. 158
Address Meadow Lane, Southampton, NY 11968 | Getting there NY 27 to Southampton, south on North Sea Road, to Main Street, right on Gin Lane, left on Meadow Lane, 1.5 miles to the boardwalk | Hours Unrestricted | Tip Nearby Dune Beach is one of the most secluded and beautiful spots in the Hamptons (1678 Meadow Lane, Southampton).
76__ Paddle Diva Life lessons on the water
The energetic people behind Paddle Diva are determined to get you out on the water. Tucked into Three Mile Harbor in East Hampton, this is the place to come for stand-up paddleboarding, also known as SUP. It’s an ancient form of surfing from the Hawaiian islands that allows people to glide over lakes, rivers, and bays, all while getting a full-body workout. “My business is about empowering people,” owner Gina Bradley says. “We want you to feel good about yourself.” Men and women of all ages lather on the sunscreen, and then carry the colorful boards down to the bay where paddle sessions commence. Beginner classes are plentiful, and people of all ranges of fitness are invited to join in. Advanced groups paddle together through more challenging waters. There are even classes for the kids. And there’s a bonus: Bradley hopes the ideas she teaches out on the water will filter into daily life. She encourages everyone to dig deep and find their hidden strengths. And even though they are pushing the paddle through the water below, she reminds everyone to remember to look up and enjoy the ride. It’s great advice because there is so much to see. Paddling out into the big bay, or exploring little inlets along the shoreline, you glimpse the land with a new perspective. Fresh water splashes your feet, gentle breezes guide you along. Paddle after paddle, suddenly you are lulled into a meditative state. The rest of the world feels very far away. Certainly nature is a big part of the experience. Classes bring you into peaceful pockets of the Hamptons that are hidden to most. You may glide past an osprey nest or notice little striped bass darting beneath your board. Shifting clouds animate the skies above. “That’s my Hamptons,” Bradley admits. “I want people to think about taking care of the planet. And if they can make one small change in their lives, it might just make a ripple.” 160
Address 279 Montauk Highway (NY 27), Water Mill, NY 11976, +1 (631) 283-2118, www.parrishart.org, info@parrishart.org | Getting there NY 27 towards Water Mill | Hours Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat & Sun 10am – 5pm, Fri 10am – 8pm | Tip Attend one of their beloved PechaKucha nights – where presenters talk about living a creative life, showing 20 images, 20 seconds per image.
78__ Pelletreau Silver Shop A modern-day Paul Revere
Pelletreau Silver Shop is possibly the tiniest shop in the Hamptons. Enter this dollhouse-looking barn on Southampton’s Main Street, and you’ve stepped back to 1686. Silversmith and Revolutionary War patriot Elias Pelletreau forged a reputation here in the 1750s as a meticulous craftsman. Today, a teapot made by Pelletreau might fetch $20,000 at auction. And it was all made right on this spot. These days, a very modern silversmith, Eric Messin, has set up shop in this diminutive studio. He makes custom rings and necklaces for special clients who want that one-of-a-kind feel. His bespoke design drawings line the walls. Trays of precious stones glisten near a tiny window. Messin is a French native who once worked for the luxury jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels in Manhattan. But he moved east for the lifestyle. “I came for the windsurfing,” Messin admits, “but then I didn’t want to leave.” Maintained today by the Southampton History Museum, this rough-hewn space is a perfect blending of history and commerce. It’s the oldest continuously operated trade shop in America. With post-and-beam construction, the wooden floors have a brownish-gray patina. The original brick forge is preserved in the corner. And on display are silver spoons and a pitcher, both crafted by Pelletreau in this very space. The silversmith was also a leader during the Revolutionary War, when he organized the local militia, with the soldiers running drills nearby. You feel that history today. You’ll see contemporary pieces by Messin dotted throughout that look modern and fresh. An anniversary ring awaits a client’s approval. Emeralds are laid out to form a necklace design. His style is classicism mixed with fantasy. And if you are inspired to become a jeweler yourself, Messin teaches classes in the space. It’s the timeless art of adornment, set inside this wooden workshop, mixed with a colonial past. 164
Wendy Lubovich is an art and lifestyle writer living in New York City and Southampton. She is the author of 111 Museums in New York That You Must Not Miss. With a Fine and Decorative Arts degree from Christie’s Education in London, she is a private museum guide in New York City. A former TV news anchor, she is also a life-long artist and spends time painting in her East End studio.
Jean Hodgens is a native and lifelong resident of Springs, East Hampton, where she is a professional photographer. When she’s not shooting weddings on breathtaking beaches, she photographs the largely unseen beauty of the Hamptons through the eyes of a local. She rides horses and sails, and she feels lucky to live in a place where most people only dream of vacationing. She holds a BFA from SUNY Purchase.