Chow!

Page 1

75 Selected Recipes with Notes on Table Etiquette

優雅的中餐

From its home at the heart of the traditional Chinese kitchen, Chow! has traveled the globe,

餐雅

selling over 300,000 copies across 68 editions in Shanghai, Hong Kong, Tokyo and New York. An accessible introduction to Chinese cookery by a doyenne of Eastern cuisine, Chow! has become a much-loved celebration of old-fashioned

 Rediscover

the all-time classics of Chinese cooking

 Seventy-five

dishes that bring China to your kitchen

 Tips

and tricks on dining etiquette

中優 的

communal dining etiquette. From tips on using chopsticks to insider expertise on traditional ingredients, this book is an authentic slice of culture. As in the first edition, the English text

周德丽 Dolly Chow Dolly Chow was a larger-than-life, fun loving character. Raised in Shanghai in the early twentieth century, her father was a prominent Qing dynasty trade official and her husband was an international diplomat, placing her at the forefront of Sino-western relations. Her marvelous culinary skills made an invitation to dine at her table highly coveted. Her private banquets were

is accompanied by the original Chinese.

an opportunity for Chinese and Western friends to join together and appreciate

Confucius was a famous epicure, demanding

traditional food. It was in this spirit that

only the highest quality of fresh home- grown

Dolly produced Chinese Recipes in English

produce. Were he alive today, Chow! would find

and Chinese – the prototype of Chow!, an

a new home on his bookshelf.

elegant and intellectual guide to etiquette and cuisine.

75 Selected Recipes with Notes on Table Etiquette

優雅的中餐 75 Selected Recipes with Notes on Table Etiquette by Dolly Chow

ISBN: 978-1-78884-075-0

ËxHSLHSIy840750zv&:-:&:!:+ £20.00/$25.00

www.accartbooks.com

Illustrated by Huang Kuo-Shung

The all-time classic!


iv

v

Dinner Parties ��������������� 1 7 Restaurant Dinners ����������� 18 Home Dinners ������������� 19 Plain Daily Meals ������������ 21

Selected Recipes Basics ������������������ 8 3 Fowl Dishes ���������������� 9 3

Table Manners ��������������� 3 7

Meat Dishes ���������������� 1 33

Seating Arrangements ���������� Don’ts at a Chinese Dinner Table ������ How to Hold Chopsticks ���������� How to Hold Rice Bowls ���������

3 8 4 5 46 48

Seafood Dishes ��������������� 1 65

Table Service ��������������� 5 7

Desserts ����������������� 2 47

Tea ������������������� 6 0

Pastry ������������������ 2 61

Wine and Song �������������� 6 4

Suggested Menus �������������� 2 95

Kitchen Utensils �������������� 7 0

Index for Chinese Words ����������� 3 08

Ingredients and Condiments ���������� 7 3

Index ������������������ 3 10

Soya Sauce ��������������� Shaohsing Wine ������������� Winter Mushrooms ������������ How to Boil Mushrooms ���������� Red Haws ��������������� Bamboo Shoots ������������� Ginger ���������������� Chinese Onion �������������

Afterword ����������������� 3 17

7 3 7 3 74 74 76 7 6 7 6 7 6

Vegetable Dishes �������������� 2 03 Soups ������������������ 2 29


iv

v

Dinner Parties ��������������� 1 7 Restaurant Dinners ����������� 18 Home Dinners ������������� 19 Plain Daily Meals ������������ 21

Selected Recipes Basics ������������������ 8 3 Fowl Dishes ���������������� 9 3

Table Manners ��������������� 3 7

Meat Dishes ���������������� 1 33

Seating Arrangements ���������� Don’ts at a Chinese Dinner Table ������ How to Hold Chopsticks ���������� How to Hold Rice Bowls ���������

3 8 4 5 46 48

Seafood Dishes ��������������� 1 65

Table Service ��������������� 5 7

Desserts ����������������� 2 47

Tea ������������������� 6 0

Pastry ������������������ 2 61

Wine and Song �������������� 6 4

Suggested Menus �������������� 2 95

Kitchen Utensils �������������� 7 0

Index for Chinese Words ����������� 3 08

Ingredients and Condiments ���������� 7 3

Index ������������������ 3 10

Soya Sauce ��������������� Shaohsing Wine ������������� Winter Mushrooms ������������ How to Boil Mushrooms ���������� Red Haws ��������������� Bamboo Shoots ������������� Ginger ���������������� Chinese Onion �������������

Afterword ����������������� 3 17

7 3 7 3 74 74 76 7 6 7 6 7 6

Vegetable Dishes �������������� 2 03 Soups ������������������ 2 29


vii

vi

xiii

再版序言

72

炊具

xix

序一

78

配料与调料

xxiii

序二

78

酱油

xxix

自序

78

绍兴酒

78

冬菇

22

家庭主妇与烹饪

79

蘑菇汤

25

烹饪的艺术

79

山楂饼

26

烹饪之方法

79

竹笋

29

调味法

80

29

面粉之用法

80

30

选料

30

侍餐

32

宴席

33

酒席

34

家厨酒席

35

家常便饭

51

餐桌礼仪

52

座位安排

54

中馈珍藏 83

基础类

92

禽类

132

肉类

164

河海鲜类

202

菜蔬类

中国餐仪之禁

228

汤类

55

执箸

246

甜点心

56

持碗

260

面食

59

餐桌食具

302

建议菜单

62

68

酒与歌

314

索引

319

后记


vii

vi

xiii

再版序言

72

炊具

xix

序一

78

配料与调料

xxiii

序二

78

酱油

xxix

自序

78

绍兴酒

78

冬菇

22

家庭主妇与烹饪

79

蘑菇汤

25

烹饪的艺术

79

山楂饼

26

烹饪之方法

79

竹笋

29

调味法

80

29

面粉之用法

80

30

选料

30

侍餐

32

宴席

33

酒席

34

家厨酒席

35

家常便饭

51

餐桌礼仪

52

座位安排

54

中馈珍藏 83

基础类

92

禽类

132

肉类

164

河海鲜类

202

菜蔬类

中国餐仪之禁

228

汤类

55

执箸

246

甜点心

56

持碗

260

面食

59

餐桌食具

302

建议菜单

62

68

酒与歌

314

索引

319

后记


Preface for the Reprinted Version 再 版 序 言

ix

PREFACE FOR THE REPRINTED VERSION

Great-grand-aunt Dolly Chow was known for being a largerthan-life fun-loving lady. She was raised in Shanghai where her father Sir Chow Shouson ( 周寿臣爵士 ), a member of the first Chinese Educational Mission to the West and a prominent trade official during the Qing dynasty, served the nation in a number of government posts. In addition to being attentive to a busy husband [C.T. Wang ( 王正廷 ), an international diplomat, community leader and father of our Chinese Olympics] and overseeing a household, great-grand-aunt Dolly herself had great culinary skills and was a gracious hostess. An invitation to dinner at the Wang household was highly appreciated. Great-grand-aunt Dolly decided to commit her culinary knowledge to paper, and so she infused her family’s private banquet menu with traditional Chinese table etiquette and drafted


Preface for the Reprinted Version 再 版 序 言

ix

PREFACE FOR THE REPRINTED VERSION

Great-grand-aunt Dolly Chow was known for being a largerthan-life fun-loving lady. She was raised in Shanghai where her father Sir Chow Shouson ( 周寿臣爵士 ), a member of the first Chinese Educational Mission to the West and a prominent trade official during the Qing dynasty, served the nation in a number of government posts. In addition to being attentive to a busy husband [C.T. Wang ( 王正廷 ), an international diplomat, community leader and father of our Chinese Olympics] and overseeing a household, great-grand-aunt Dolly herself had great culinary skills and was a gracious hostess. An invitation to dinner at the Wang household was highly appreciated. Great-grand-aunt Dolly decided to commit her culinary knowledge to paper, and so she infused her family’s private banquet menu with traditional Chinese table etiquette and drafted


156

優雅的中餐

CHOW !

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

157

STEWED MEATBALLS WITH SHANTUNG CABBAGE [Hung Shao Shih Tzu T’ou(红烧狮子 头 )]

Ingredients for Meatballs:

Method: Mix the above ingredients (except the lard) thoroughly into a

lb. beef or pork (finely minced)

small slice of ginger (chopped)

small stalk of Chinese onion (chopped)

teaspoonful of wine

teaspoonfuls of cornflour

teaspoonful of sesamum oil

after adding the soya sauce, sugar, salt and stock. Turn out into a

3

teaspoonfuls of water

deep pan, place the meatballs on top of the cabbage, and simmer

½

teaspoonful of salt

for � hour.

cup of lard

/3

Ingredients for Cabbage: �

cabbages (coarsely chopped)

6

teaspoonfuls of soya sauce

cup of stock

teaspoonfuls of sugar

½

teaspoonful of salt

stiff mass, then make into � large meatballs. Heat the lard in a pan, and sauté the meatballs until golden brown on both sides. Leave in a dish. Sauté the cabbage in the fat left in the pan for � to 3 minutes,


156

優雅的中餐

CHOW !

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

157

STEWED MEATBALLS WITH SHANTUNG CABBAGE [Hung Shao Shih Tzu T’ou(红烧狮子 头 )]

Ingredients for Meatballs:

Method: Mix the above ingredients (except the lard) thoroughly into a

lb. beef or pork (finely minced)

small slice of ginger (chopped)

small stalk of Chinese onion (chopped)

teaspoonful of wine

teaspoonfuls of cornflour

teaspoonful of sesamum oil

after adding the soya sauce, sugar, salt and stock. Turn out into a

3

teaspoonfuls of water

deep pan, place the meatballs on top of the cabbage, and simmer

½

teaspoonful of salt

for � hour.

cup of lard

/3

Ingredients for Cabbage: �

cabbages (coarsely chopped)

6

teaspoonfuls of soya sauce

cup of stock

teaspoonfuls of sugar

½

teaspoonful of salt

stiff mass, then make into � large meatballs. Heat the lard in a pan, and sauté the meatballs until golden brown on both sides. Leave in a dish. Sauté the cabbage in the fat left in the pan for � to 3 minutes,


158

優雅的中餐

CHOW !

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

159

STEWED RICE FLOUR PORK

米粉肉

[Mi Fên Jou(米粉 肉 )]

材 料 :

Ingredients:

一杯生米

cup of uncooked rice

一又二分之一磅五花肉

�½

lbs. streaky pork

一片生姜,部分切碎

piece of ginger (finely chopped)

stalk of Chinese onion (finely chopped)

½

cup of water

teaspoonfuls of sesamum oil

teaspoonfuls of soya sauce

½

teaspoonful of sugar

½

teaspoonful of salt

一根青葱,部分切碎 半杯水 二小匙麻油 四小匙酱油 半小匙白糖 半小匙细盐

Method:

做 法 : 首先将米放在热锅中炒之,然后把它磨碎。把米粉置在 碗 中, 加 入 生 姜、 青 葱、 细 盐、 白 糖、 酱 油、 麻 油 和 水, 调 成 糊 。 把肉煮上一个小时,然后将它切成薄片。将肉片并排置 在深碗中,带皮的一面朝下,中间糊上米糊。最后放一片厚 生 姜 和 一 大 根 青 葱 在 上 面, 将 它 蒸 二 个 半 小 时。 好 了 之 后, 把整碗肉翻在盘子上食 之 。

Fry the rice in a hot dry pan, then pulverize it. Put the powder into a bowl, then add the ginger, onion, salt, sugar, soya sauce, sesamum oil and water to make into a paste. Boil the pork for � hour, then cut it up into thin slices. These are set in a deep bowl side by side, with a layer of the paste intervening, and with the skin surface downwards. They are then steamed for �½ hours, with a thick slice of ginger and a large piece of Chinese onion. The whole is turned out onto a dish, the lower side up, for serving.


158

優雅的中餐

CHOW !

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

159

STEWED RICE FLOUR PORK

米粉肉

[Mi Fên Jou(米粉 肉 )]

材 料 :

Ingredients:

一杯生米

cup of uncooked rice

一又二分之一磅五花肉

�½

lbs. streaky pork

一片生姜,部分切碎

piece of ginger (finely chopped)

stalk of Chinese onion (finely chopped)

½

cup of water

teaspoonfuls of sesamum oil

teaspoonfuls of soya sauce

½

teaspoonful of sugar

½

teaspoonful of salt

一根青葱,部分切碎 半杯水 二小匙麻油 四小匙酱油 半小匙白糖 半小匙细盐

Method:

做 法 : 首先将米放在热锅中炒之,然后把它磨碎。把米粉置在 碗 中, 加 入 生 姜、 青 葱、 细 盐、 白 糖、 酱 油、 麻 油 和 水, 调 成 糊 。 把肉煮上一个小时,然后将它切成薄片。将肉片并排置 在深碗中,带皮的一面朝下,中间糊上米糊。最后放一片厚 生 姜 和 一 大 根 青 葱 在 上 面, 将 它 蒸 二 个 半 小 时。 好 了 之 后, 把整碗肉翻在盘子上食 之 。

Fry the rice in a hot dry pan, then pulverize it. Put the powder into a bowl, then add the ginger, onion, salt, sugar, soya sauce, sesamum oil and water to make into a paste. Boil the pork for � hour, then cut it up into thin slices. These are set in a deep bowl side by side, with a layer of the paste intervening, and with the skin surface downwards. They are then steamed for �½ hours, with a thick slice of ginger and a large piece of Chinese onion. The whole is turned out onto a dish, the lower side up, for serving.


168

優雅的中餐

CHOW !

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

169

BROWN SAUCE MANDARIN FISH [Hung Shao Kuei Yü(红烧鳜鱼)]

Ingredients:

Wine Pot and Cups 酒壶和杯子

mandarin fish (about 2 lbs.)

¼

lb. fatty pork (cut into squares)

6

mushrooms (soaked)

½

bamboo shoot (sliced)

slice of ginger

small stalk of Chinese onion

large clove of garlic

/3

cup of lard

teaspoonfuls of soya sauce

teaspoonful of salt

teaspoonfuls of wine

cup of meat stock

½

teaspoonful of sugar

piece of star aniseed

Method: Heat the lard in a frying pan, and sauté the fish, which has been previously scored, for 5 minutes until it is brown on both sides. Add in the ginger, onion, garlic, mushrooms, bamboo shoot, Ten Wine Cups 十个酒杯

soya sauce, salt, wine, fatty pork and meat stock. Cook for a while, and finally add the sugar and aniseed. Bring to the boil, then simmer for ½ hour with a cover on the frying pan. Serve the fish whole.


168

優雅的中餐

CHOW !

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

169

BROWN SAUCE MANDARIN FISH [Hung Shao Kuei Yü(红烧鳜鱼)]

Ingredients:

Wine Pot and Cups 酒壶和杯子

mandarin fish (about 2 lbs.)

¼

lb. fatty pork (cut into squares)

6

mushrooms (soaked)

½

bamboo shoot (sliced)

slice of ginger

small stalk of Chinese onion

large clove of garlic

/3

cup of lard

teaspoonfuls of soya sauce

teaspoonful of salt

teaspoonfuls of wine

cup of meat stock

½

teaspoonful of sugar

piece of star aniseed

Method: Heat the lard in a frying pan, and sauté the fish, which has been previously scored, for 5 minutes until it is brown on both sides. Add in the ginger, onion, garlic, mushrooms, bamboo shoot, Ten Wine Cups 十个酒杯

soya sauce, salt, wine, fatty pork and meat stock. Cook for a while, and finally add the sugar and aniseed. Bring to the boil, then simmer for ½ hour with a cover on the frying pan. Serve the fish whole.


170

CHOW !

優雅的中餐

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

171

炸松鼠鱼

主菜的材料:

调味汁的材 料 :

做 法 :

一条鳜鱼 ( 约三磅 )

一小根青葱

六小匙玉米粉

一小片生姜

一小匙细盐

三小匙白糖

现在可以做那些调味料,如 下 :

二小匙米酒

二小匙玉米粉

将猪油置在炒锅里烧热。把姜、葱略炒一下,然后加入

二小匙酱油

四分之一杯米醋

四分之一杯猪油

四分之一磅猪肉,切片

首 先 将 鱼 洗 涤 去 骨, 两 面 划 上 几 刀, 抹 一 点 酒 和 细 盐, 再擦上一些玉米粉 ( 约六小匙 ),将鱼炸成金黄 色 。

二小匙酱油、米醋、白糖和猪肉 片 。 用一点水将二小匙玉米粉调和,慢慢地加入的同时不停 地拌之。这些调味料做好之后,倒在鱼的上头供 食 。


170

CHOW !

優雅的中餐

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

171

炸松鼠鱼

主菜的材料:

调味汁的材 料 :

做 法 :

一条鳜鱼 ( 约三磅 )

一小根青葱

六小匙玉米粉

一小片生姜

一小匙细盐

三小匙白糖

现在可以做那些调味料,如 下 :

二小匙米酒

二小匙玉米粉

将猪油置在炒锅里烧热。把姜、葱略炒一下,然后加入

二小匙酱油

四分之一杯米醋

四分之一杯猪油

四分之一磅猪肉,切片

首 先 将 鱼 洗 涤 去 骨, 两 面 划 上 几 刀, 抹 一 点 酒 和 细 盐, 再擦上一些玉米粉 ( 约六小匙 ),将鱼炸成金黄 色 。

二小匙酱油、米醋、白糖和猪肉 片 。 用一点水将二小匙玉米粉调和,慢慢地加入的同时不停 地拌之。这些调味料做好之后,倒在鱼的上头供 食 。


172

優雅的中餐

CHOW !

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

173

FRIED FISH WITH SOUR SAUCE [Cha Sung Shu Yü(炸松鼠 鱼 )]

Main Ingredients: � mandarin fish (about 3 lbs.)

Method: Bone the fish and score the outside. Add the wine and salt.

6 teaspoonfuls of cornflour

Rub thoroughly with 6 teaspoonfuls of cornflour and fry the fish

� teaspoonful of salt

until golden brown and crisp.

� teaspoonfuls of wine

Now make the sauce as follows: Heat the lard in a frying pan. Fry the ginger and onion a little,

Sauce Ingredients:

then add � teaspoonfuls of soya sauce, the vinegar, sugar and sliced pork.

small stalk of Chinese onion

small slice of ginger

3

teaspoonfuls of sugar

slowly, stirring all the time, then pour the sauce on the fish and

teaspoonfuls of cornflour

serve.

teaspoonfuls of soya sauce

¼ cup of vinegar ¼ cup of lard ¼ lb. pork (sliced)

Mix � teaspoonfuls of cornflour with a little water, and add


172

優雅的中餐

CHOW !

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

173

FRIED FISH WITH SOUR SAUCE [Cha Sung Shu Yü(炸松鼠 鱼 )]

Main Ingredients: � mandarin fish (about 3 lbs.)

Method: Bone the fish and score the outside. Add the wine and salt.

6 teaspoonfuls of cornflour

Rub thoroughly with 6 teaspoonfuls of cornflour and fry the fish

� teaspoonful of salt

until golden brown and crisp.

� teaspoonfuls of wine

Now make the sauce as follows: Heat the lard in a frying pan. Fry the ginger and onion a little,

Sauce Ingredients:

then add � teaspoonfuls of soya sauce, the vinegar, sugar and sliced pork.

small stalk of Chinese onion

small slice of ginger

3

teaspoonfuls of sugar

slowly, stirring all the time, then pour the sauce on the fish and

teaspoonfuls of cornflour

serve.

teaspoonfuls of soya sauce

¼ cup of vinegar ¼ cup of lard ¼ lb. pork (sliced)

Mix � teaspoonfuls of cornflour with a little water, and add


174

優雅的中餐

CHOW !

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

175

熏  鱼

做 法 :

主菜的材 料 : 一又二分之一磅黄鱼或其他的鱼,切成大片

然后将鱼片逐一徐徐地放入热油中炸成金黄 色 。

一大片生姜

用四分之一杯猪油再将鱼片炸一下,然后加入全部调味

一大根青葱

材料煮到快没有水分时为止。这道菜可吃热的或冷 的 。

一粒蒜头 少许胡椒粉 八小匙酱油 一小匙麻油 三小匙米酒 二小匙白糖

调味汁的材 料 : 二小匙酱油

一小匙白糖

半小匙细盐

三分之一杯原汁肉汤

以上的作料混合在一 起 。

首先将切好的鱼片和以上其他主菜材料混合泡至一小时,


174

優雅的中餐

CHOW !

Selected Recipes

中馈珍藏

175

熏  鱼

做 法 :

主菜的材 料 : 一又二分之一磅黄鱼或其他的鱼,切成大片

然后将鱼片逐一徐徐地放入热油中炸成金黄 色 。

一大片生姜

用四分之一杯猪油再将鱼片炸一下,然后加入全部调味

一大根青葱

材料煮到快没有水分时为止。这道菜可吃热的或冷 的 。

一粒蒜头 少许胡椒粉 八小匙酱油 一小匙麻油 三小匙米酒 二小匙白糖

调味汁的材 料 : 二小匙酱油

一小匙白糖

半小匙细盐

三分之一杯原汁肉汤

以上的作料混合在一 起 。

首先将切好的鱼片和以上其他主菜材料混合泡至一小时,


75 Selected Recipes with Notes on Table Etiquette

優雅的中餐

From its home at the heart of the traditional Chinese kitchen, Chow! has traveled the globe,

餐雅

selling over 300,000 copies across 68 editions in Shanghai, Hong Kong, Tokyo and New York. An accessible introduction to Chinese cookery by a doyenne of Eastern cuisine, Chow! has become a much-loved celebration of old-fashioned

 Rediscover

the all-time classics of Chinese cooking

 Seventy-five

dishes that bring China to your kitchen

 Tips

and tricks on dining etiquette

中優 的

communal dining etiquette. From tips on using chopsticks to insider expertise on traditional ingredients, this book is an authentic slice of culture. As in the first edition, the English text

周德丽 Dolly Chow Dolly Chow was a larger-than-life, fun loving character. Raised in Shanghai in the early twentieth century, her father was a prominent Qing dynasty trade official and her husband was an international diplomat, placing her at the forefront of Sino-western relations. Her marvelous culinary skills made an invitation to dine at her table highly coveted. Her private banquets were

is accompanied by the original Chinese.

an opportunity for Chinese and Western friends to join together and appreciate

Confucius was a famous epicure, demanding

traditional food. It was in this spirit that

only the highest quality of fresh home- grown

Dolly produced Chinese Recipes in English

produce. Were he alive today, Chow! would find

and Chinese – the prototype of Chow!, an

a new home on his bookshelf.

elegant and intellectual guide to etiquette and cuisine.

75 Selected Recipes with Notes on Table Etiquette

優雅的中餐 75 Selected Recipes with Notes on Table Etiquette by Dolly Chow

ISBN: 978-1-78884-075-0

ËxHSLHSIy840750zv&:-:&:!:+ £20.00/$25.00

www.accartbooks.com

Illustrated by Huang Kuo-Shung

The all-time classic!


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