PHILIPPE URRACA WITH
French Pastry Master Class
CÉCILE COULIER
Photography by JEAN-MICHEL COULIER
Discover the jewels of French pastry as made by Philippe Urraca, president of the MOF Pastry Chefs since 2003, and 20 recipes by MOF pastry chefs compiled and published for the first time in this book.
CÉCILE COULIER A food writer, food stylist, author of books,* and television consultant, Cécile Coulier is a pastry lover, to the point that she trained in this speciality at the Ferrandi School, gaining her vocational qualifications in 2010. * She has written a large number of books, among which are
Petits gâteaux de grands pâtissiers, in partnership with the chefs at the Club des Sucrés (La Martinière), Mes gâteaux joliment décorés and Happy Birthday! (Solar), and Amorino, trésors glacés (Chêne). See also Les Meilleurs Desserts de France by Christophe Michalak (Gründ, Un grand pâtissier collection) and Chocolat plaisir by Pierre Marcolini (Solar), in addition to Profiteroles by Philippe Urraca (Solar).
French Pastry Master Class
Philippe Urraca and Cécile Coulier offer THE essential guide to French pastry. This complete work, which presents all of the French pastry classics with extreme accuracy and with detailed step-by-step instructions, offers you all of the techniques, skills, and tricks of the trade for success with your desserts. Financiers, macarons, puffs, tarts, cakes, and entremets, the list is endless.
PHILIPPE URRACA
Teaching, creativity and excellence is the key to this book, which will allow any lover of baking, enthusiasts or professionals, to find a recipe that works, with suggestions and tips from Philippe Urraca Meilleur Ouvrier de France pastry chef.
DE FRANCE
F O R E WO R D Pâtisserie
34
Preparation time: 1 1 ⁄2 hrs Resting time: 45 mins Baking time: 2 hrs–2 hrs 10 mins EQUIPMENT Size 20 fluted pastry tip Size 10 plain pastry tip Sultan pastry tip Disposable pastry bags Silicone dome molds, 7 cm (2 3⁄4 in) in diameter and 4 cm (1 1⁄2 in) in diameter Candy thermometer
Choux Pastry
Religieuse
Choux pastry 125 g ( 1⁄2 cup) water 125 g ( 1⁄2 cup) milk 2.5 g ( 1⁄2 tsp) salt 125 g (1 stick + 1 tbsp) butter, at room temperature 150 g (1 cup + 3 1⁄2 tbsp) all-purpose (T55) flour 250 g (8 3⁄4 oz - about 5) eggs
110 g (3 7⁄8 oz - about 6 1⁄2) egg yolks 60 g ( 1⁄2 cup) all-purpose flour 190 g (1 1⁄2 sticks + 1 1⁄2 tbsp) salted butter
35
INGREDIENTS
MAKES APPROX. 16–20 RELIGIEUSES
RELIGIEUSE W ITH SA LTED BUT TER CAR AMEL
Meringue 90 g (3 1⁄8 oz - about 2 3⁄4) egg whites 90 g ( 1⁄4 cup + 3 tbsp) superfine sugar 90 g ( 3⁄4 cup) confectioners’ sugar Craquelin 140 g (1 1⁄4 sticks) butter, softened 170 g (packed 3⁄4 cup + 1 tsp) brown sugar 200 g (1 1⁄2 cups + 1 1⁄2 tbsp) all-purpose (T55) flour 30 g (2 tbsp) water
38
Pâtisserie
Choux Pastry
Religieuse
MICHEL GUÉRARD
39
S A LT E D B U T T E R C A R A M E L P A S T R Y C R E A M
Salted butter caramel pastry cream 530 g (2 1⁄4 cups) milk
1 vanilla bean 110 g ( 1⁄2 cup + 1 tbsp) sugar
Caramel fondant 100 g ( 1⁄2 cup) sugar 35 g (2 tbsp + 1 tsp) hot water 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) white fondant 35 g (2 tbsp + 1 tsp) cocoa butter Final decoration Edible gold leaf
18. Split the vanilla bean and scrape out the seeds. Add the seeds to the milk in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Let infuse for 15 minutes.
19. Put one-third of the sugar into another saucepan and melt without stirring.
20. When it is completely melted, add another third.
21. Mix and let melt while stirring with a spatula to stop the sugar from splashing over the sides of the pan.
22. Add the rest of the sugar and caramelize. It is ready when it begins to smoke.
When the caramel is cooked, it smokes because it no longer contains water. If it left to cook any longer, it will develop a bitter taste.
25. Away from the heat, pour a mixture made from the egg yolks and flour, previously mixed in a bowl with a little hot milk ( See the principle of premixing on p. 25), into the pan while blending with a handheld blender.
26. Bring the mixture to a boil while stirring constantly with a whisk.
27. Add the salted butter, cut into small pieces.
28. Mix with the whisk until the butter is completely incorporated.
29. Blend with the handheld blender for a few seconds to fully incorporate the fat particles and until the cream is smooth. Pour the cream over a baking sheet lined with plastic wrap. Cover with plastic wrap in direct contact with the cream.
30. Freeze for 15–30 minutes.
32. Take the salted butter caramel pastry cream out of the refrigerator and transfer it to a bowl. Whisk the cream until smooth, then fill a pastry bag fitted with a size 10 plain tip. Fill the puffs through the bottom and stand them upside down on a rack.
Fill the puffs with enough cream. The cream should rise to the top of the hole. Be careful: too much cream may cause the puff to burst.
MERINGUE
1. Make a meringue. See p. 345.
2. Use a disposable pastry bag fitted with a sultan tip to pipe meringue rings over a nonstick baking sheet.
3. Preheat the oven to 90°C (195°F). Bake the rings for 1 hour 30 minutes.
WHY?
CR AQUELIN
TIP : The brown sugar melts little 4. Always start by making the craquelin before making the choux pastry. In a mixer when baked, which is what gives the craquelin topping its crackly texture. fitted with a flat beater attachment, mix the softened butter with the brown sugar.
42
FILLING THE PUFFS
5. Add the sifted flour, followed by the water. Mix to a smooth dough.
23. Away from the heat (off the stove), stop CAUTION: When the milk is added the caramel by adding the very hot vanilla- to the caramel, a reaction causes the milk to rise suddenly inside the infused milk, all at once or half at a time, pan. Be careful of splashing. while stirring constantly.
24. Mix well.
31. Use the end of a fine pastry tip to make a hole in the bottom of each cooled puff.
TIP :
Philippe Urraca, MOF 1994 MAKES 12 RELIGIEUSES Preparation time: 1 hr Baking time: 30 mins EQUIPMENT Size 10 plain pastry tip Sultan pastry tip Disposable pastry bags Stainless steel rectangular cake ring, 40 x 30 cm (15 1⁄2 x 11 3⁄4 in) Candy thermometer
Craquelin 120 g (1 stick + 1⁄2 tbsp) butter, softened 140 g (packed 2⁄3 cup) brown sugar 165 g (1 1⁄3 cups) all-purpose (T55) flour 25 g (1 tbsp + 2 tsp) water Choux pastry 60 g ( 1⁄4 cup) milk 60 g ( 1⁄4 cup) water 60 g (4 tbsp) butter, at room temperature 75 g ( 1⁄2 cup + 1 1⁄2 tbsp) all-purpose (T55) flour 1 g ( 1⁄6 tsp) salt 150 g (5 1⁄4 oz - about 2 2⁄3) eggs
CHOUX PASTRY Make the choux pastry. See p. 23. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a size 15 plain tip with the pastry. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and pipe twelve 5-cm (2-inch)-diameter puffs on one, and twelve 2.5-cm (1-inch)-diameter puffs on the other. Place the craquelin disks over their corresponding puffs. Preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F). Put the puffs into the oven and immediately turn it off. Wait 10 minutes and turn the oven back on, this time to 170°C (340°F), and bake for another 20–30 minutes. Transfer the puffs to a rack to cool.
Cover photograph © Jean-Michel Coulier.
9782812314056-J_EN.indd 1
The jewels of French pastry illustrated with 3,000 step-by-step photographies.
INGREDIENTS
CRAQUELIN Make the craquelin. See p. 35. Use a cookie cutter to cut out twelve 6-cm (2 1⁄2-inch)-diameter disks and twelve 3.5-cm (1 3⁄8-inch)-diameter disks. Refrigerate.
After training at a school of fine arts, this lover of the image and printing naturally turned to advertising. He is the artistic director of an agency and particularly appreciates the contrast between the hard-hitting message and the subtlety of graphics and lettering. Twenty-five years later, driven by his admitted love of good food and his long-standing hobby, he adds the same ingredients to his food photos, for the sole purpose of creating an image that whets the appetite.
A leading figure in the pastry arts, he is in great demand the world over. Following in his father’s footsteps, this talented pastry chef opened his first store at the age He already had a strong belief in of7 nineteen. P REFACES highlighting the skills and tradition that formed of the French pastrymaking a7part Foreword by Michel Guértradition. ard He gained recognition as a Meilleur Ouvrier de in 1994. The he places France 8 Foreword by importance Philippe Urr aca on teaching and sharing led him to become president Committee of MOF Pastry Chefs, a role he of9 the Fore word by Cécile Coulier still occupies. pastry As 12 executive SSE E N T chef I A Land technical director of La Compagnie in 2014 he launched U T E N Sdes I LDesserts, S Profiterole Chérie, a Parisian store specializing in this 14 traditional F O C U S pastry. O N I NPhilippe G R E D IUrraca E N T Sis the only MOF winner on the jury of the television program sera le T prochain Qui 18 IN R O Dgrand U Cpâtissier? T I O N broadcast by France 2.
Pâtisserie
RED BERRY A ND V IOLET RELIG IEUSE
THE PHOTOGRAPHER: JEAN-MICHEL COULIER
PHILIPPE URRACA
MEILLEUR OUVRIER
RED BERRY PASTRY CREAM Combine the milk with the fruit purees in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and pour a little of the mixture over the previously beaten egg yolks and mix well with a whisk. Add the cornstarch and mix with a whisk until smooth. Add the sugar to the remaining milk and fruit mixture. Pour the yolk, milk, and cornstarch mixture into the pan while blending with a handheld blender. Blend for a few seconds until the mixture is completely smooth.
Red berry pastry cream 370 g (1 1⁄2 cups) raspberry puree 100 g ( 1⁄3 cup) black currant puree 170 g ( 3⁄4 cup + 1 1⁄2 tbsp) sugar 150 g ( 1⁄2 cup + 2 tbsp) milk 120 g (4 1⁄4 oz - about 7) egg yolks 40 g ( 1⁄3 cup) cornstarch 180 g (1 1⁄2 sticks + 3⁄4 tbsp) butter, at room temperature 2 g ( 1⁄2 tsp) violet flavoring
290 g (1 1⁄4 cups) water 100 g ( 1⁄3 cup + 1 tbsp) glucose 20 g (4 tsp) lemon juice 1 g ( 1⁄2 tsp) edible gold dust Red food coloring Chantilly cream 150 g ( 1⁄2 cup + 2 tbsp) light cream (35% fat) 10 g (4 tsp) confectioners’ sugar
Red berry icing 300 g (1 1⁄2 cups) sugar (50 g + 250 g - 1⁄4 cup + 1 1⁄4 cups) 26 g ( 7⁄8 oz) pectin NH 150 g ( 2⁄3 cup) raspberry puree 70 g ( 1⁄4 cup + 2 tsp) black currant puree
Recipes by MOF pastry chefs who give their take on the grand classics of French pastry.
Bring to a boil while stirring constantly with a whisk. Remove the pan from the heat and add the butter, cut into small pieces. Mix with a whisk, then blend with a handheld blender until the cream is completely smooth. Spread the cream out over a baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap in direct contact with it. Freeze for about 15 minutes. RED BERRY ICING Mix 50 g ( 1⁄4 cup) sugar with the pectin in a bowl. Combine the fruit puree, glucose, remaining sugar (250 g - 1 1⁄4 cups), and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. When the temperature reaches 50–60°C (120–140°F), add the sugar and pectin mixture. Bring to a boil while stirring constantly. Then mix in the lemon juice. Remove the pan from the heat and add the red coloring and gold dust. CHANTILLY CREAM, ASSEMBLY, AND FINISHING Make a hole in the bottom of each puff with the end of a fine pastry tip. Put the red berry pastry cream into a pastry bag fitted with a size 10 plain tip and fill the puffs. Dip the top of each puff into the red berry icing. Make a Chantilly cream by whipping the very cold cream with the confectioners’ sugar. Put the cream into a pastry bag fitted with a sultan tip and pipe a double ring of cream over each large puff. Finish by placing a small puff on top of the religieuse.
An exceptional book for both amateurs and professionals.
79 3577 0 ISBN 978-2-81231-741-5 45$ / 39.90€ / 35£
www.editionsduchene.fr
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B A B A S
B R I O C H E S
91
141
French Pastry Master Class
C H O U X P A S T R Y
P U F F
PA S T RY
183
C R O I S S A N T S
203
C H A R L O T T E S
225
S P O N G E
327
L O A F
343
M E R I N G U E S
385
S O F T
411
S H O R T B R E A D
CAKES AND CREAMS CAKES
AND MACARONS CAKES
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