Rolex becomes the official Title Sponsor of the 24-hour race of Daytona
First Daytona in white gold
Launch of the in-house Caliber 4130 on the new reference 116520
Rolex becomes the Official Timekeeper for the 24 Hours of Le Mans
First Daytona with a Cerachrom bezel
First Daytona in platinum
Rolex becomes a Global Partner and Official Timepiece of Formula 1®
First Daytona with an Oysterflex strap
New Caliber 4131 housed inside the reference 1265xx family
Launch of the white gold “Le Mans” Daytona to celebrate 100 years of the race (reference 126529LN)
2023
DAYTONA LE MANS EDITION
In 2023, Rolex launched the white gold ‘Le Mans’ Daytona Ref. 126529LN which was immediately met with fervor and admiration by the watch community.
Made to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the 24 Hours of Le Mans race, Rolex announced a very special Cosmograph Daytona. With one glance, collectors and hobbyists were able to see a direct link between this watch and Rolex’s heritage. In particular the “reverse Panda” – white registers on a black dial– featuring squares within the registers and serifed text, pointed to none other than the famous “Paul Newman” Daytonas of the past. Another small yet significant detail was the “100” graduation on the bezel rendered in red, a nod to the 100 th anniversary of Le Mans. Moreover, another tribute to this legendary race was the hours counter increased to 24 hours instead of the usual 12, which required a modification in the movement, renamed Caliber 4132 and visible through a sapphire crystal back.
While this new model was not a mere copy of vintage Daytonas – and here it must be noted that with Rolex such is never the case – Rolex’s acknowledgment of its past paves a new way for the brand, one that pays homage to its colorful and storied heritage. And it is in some way also a tribute to the first name planned for its Cosmograph in 1963: Le Mans.
OPPOSITE PAGE:
The “Le Mans” edition released in 2023 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the legendary race. Produced in a very limited quantity, this white gold Daytona will make its mark on the history of the model.
CALIBERS
FIRST GENERATION: CALIBER 4030
Movement diameter: 30.5 mm
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph)
Power reserve: ~50 hours
The story of the self-winding Cosmograph Daytona begins with Caliber 4030. Rolex relied on Zenith to supply its very first automatic movements.
However, despite the quality of the existing ébauche , Rolex made approximately 200 modifications to the Zenith caliber El Primero 400 before being satisfied with the product.
Components that underwent changes included a balance wheel with the Breguet hairspring and the addition of Rolex’s Micro-Stella adjustment system, as well as the shock-proofing system.
The oscillating weight was replaced by the Rolex Perpetual rotor. Finally, the date function was removed.
The power reserve was furthermore increased from 42 to 50 hours and the oscillations frequency of the original Zenith caliber was reduced from 36,000 vibrations per hour to 28,800 in order to make it more robust and less demanding in terms of lubrication.
The entire watch underwent chronometer and waterproofness testing by Rolex in addition to the movement certification issued by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). As a result, the dials bore the inscription “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”.
CALIBER 4030 (1988-2000)
The caliber number, 4030, is engraved on the chronograph bridge. The movement number is on the main bridge, below the balance wheel (the serial number being hidden here). The rotor bears the brand name, the number of jewels (31) and the various adjustments (information necessary for exportation to the USA).
BEZELS
In 1963 the tachymeter scale of the first Daytona that was usually printed on the dial was moved and engraved on the bezel to enhance legibility. A tachymeter scale is used to calculate the speed of an objet moving over a given distance, for example a car. From 1988 onwards, most bezels were made of metal, but in 2011 Rolex started to introduce a ceramic bezel called Cerachrom. From 2023 onwards, the ceramic bezel is edged by a ring of metal corresponding to the case (steel, gold or platinum).
MARK 1. 200
Approximate production years: 1988-1989
Usual serial range: R-L
In 1988, when the Daytona Automatic was launched, Rolex used the same bezel design (graduation) of the latest manual-winding Daytona models – meaning a 200-unit graduated scale – with the text “UNITS PER HOUR” located at 3 o’clock. There is however one difference: the numbers 170 and 190 have been replaced by hashes. This bezel available in steel and in 18K yellow gold was used only until about 1989.
MARK 2. 400/250
Approximate production years: 1989-(1990)
Usual serial range: L
The second generation is characterized by a difference in the graduation, now with a maximum value of 400 and the text “UNITS PER HOUR” located at 1 o’clock. This version shows graduation numbers that would not be used in the Mark 3: 250 and 225. This bezel is even rarer than the first one, because it was produced for approximately one year only. Very few examples in yellow gold have been observed.
MK 1. 200
MK 2. 400/250
16520 Wide SWISS MADE
Once tritium was no longer used and replaced by non-radioactive luminescent materials, the T letters on either side of SWISS MADE were dropped. This tritium phase-out period began towards the end of the U series and ended during series A. The first variant of this new dial is called “Wide Swiss Made” because this inscription is wider than the subsequent version. An easy way to spot it is the first “S” of “SWISS”, which is close to the index marking 33. Another identification clue is the short central stroke in the “E” of “ROLEX”.
MODELS – ZENITH DAYTONA
16520 Narrow SWISS MADE
Compared to the watch on the previous page, the words “Swiss Made” are ever so slightly closer together, earning the name “Narrow Swiss Made”. In addition, the “E” in “ROLEX” has a much longer middle stroke and the “M” in “CHRONOMETER” has a long central junction. This variant is the last one of the “Zenith” Daytonas. Note the 1999 introduction of a new bezel variant (Mk 3.4) with more distance between the letters of the words “UNIT PER HOUR”.
16528 Floating Cosmograph Mk 1
This example represents the first version of the yellow gold automatic Daytona, reference 16528, produced from 1988. It is called “Floating Cosmograph Mk 1”, with its “COSMOGRAPH” distant from the other text lines and its early bezel graduated to 200. Note the hands, hour-markers and counter rims in gold.
16528 Inverted 6 Wide 40
This 16528 from the early 1990s is characterized by its “inverted 6” in the subsidiary register at 6 o’clock. The bezel is an “Mk 3.3 Floating 400” with a larger distance between the number 400 and its corresponding dot.
116528 Panda Racing
This Cosmograph Daytona is known as the “Panda Racing” due to the contrasting black subsidiary registers with the white background, evoking the face of a panda. The Arabic numerals and the red accents contributed to the name “Racing”. The same dial exists for the Rolesor Daytona, as well as for the white gold Daytona, with white gold numerals.
2003
MODELS – IN-HOUSE CALIBER DAYTONA
116508 Green Racing – John Mayer
Released at Baselworld 2016, the present Rolex Daytona reference 116508 was the first Daytona model in yellow gold to showcase the firm’s signature emerald green color on its dial. It is nicknamed “John Mayer” by collectors, as the singer, an avid watch collector, was spotted with this watch on his wrist. The model was discontinued in 2023.
HARDSTONE DIALS
Selecting and cutting hard stones to create dials requires a great deal of expertise, time as well as effort and Rolex has always been in the vanguard when it comes to experimenting with new materials.
As a naturally occurring element, no two hardstones have the same appearance, meaning that each slice looks completely different from another, giving each watch is unique character.
Sodalite, grossularia and meteorite are just a few of the stones used by Rolex to enhance the Cosmograph Daytona.
16519 Sodalite 8 Diamonds
This reference 16519 is fitted with a sodalite dial. While hardstones are now regularly used in timepieces, Rolex was very imaginative during the 1990s in pairing a sports chronograph with such a dial. Given the fragility of the material and the expertise required to create these dials, production remained extremely limited.
1997
116519 Beach Green
This version of the “Beach” displays a green chrysoprase dial with matching lizard strap. In the second half of the 2000s, the same dial was used in reference 116509 with a white gold Oyster bracelet, but it does not belong to the “Beach” collection.
116519 Beach Turquoise
This version of the “Beach” displays a blue turquoise dial with matching lizard strap. Given the serial number starting with K, fat hands with luminous material inside were most probably changed during a service on the watch or at the customer’s request. In the second half of the 2000s, the same dial was used in reference 116509 with a white gold Oyster bracelet, but it is not part of the “Beach” collection.
2000
FELINE MOTIFS
While the adjective “daring” is not a word one commonly used to describe Rolex watches, the brand has once in a while pushed the boundaries of design.
The first of these models on the unofficial “feline” theme was produced in the early 2000s and nicknamed “leopard”. Legend has it that a lady companion of a top Rolex executive was the inspiration for the flamboyant design of this model set with precious stones and featuring a dial and strap reminiscent of this graceful feline.
Rolex has recently produced models on this same theme, available in yellow gold and white gold, this time with a tiger-like resemblance.
116598SACO Leopard
Introduced at the Basel Fair in 2004, reference 116598 SACO immediately captured the eyes and hearts of certain Rolex fans. Adorned with diamond-set hour-markers contrasting with the leopard-print dial and strap, this watch was very different from anything Rolex had previously done. A bezel set with 36 orange sapphires and a case set with brilliant-cut diamonds complete the picture.
