»From a historical point of view, the olive oils we are producing today are the best ever in the entire Mediterranean region and beyond. Never before have we seen olive oils of such high quality.« Prof. Maurizio Servili Full Professor of Food Science and Technology Department of Agriculture, Food and Environmental Sciences, University of Perugia, Italy
2 — Produzentenporträts
SuperOlio
»From a historical point of view, the olive oils we are producing today are the best ever in the entire Mediterranean region and beyond. Never before have we seen olive oils of such high quality.« Prof. Maurizio Servili Full Professor of Food Science and Technology Department of Agriculture, Food and Environmental Sciences, University of Perugia, Italy
2 — Produzentenporträts
SuperOlio
Contents
Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 A journey through history. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14
Olive oil today. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 SuperOlio – The birth of a movement . . . . . . . . . . . 34 SuperOlio – More diverse than ever . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 How is a SuperOlio created? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Producer portraits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 SuperOlio – Healthier than ever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 SuperOlio – More aromatic than ever . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Recipes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Practical tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Appendix. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298
SuperOlio
Contents — 5
Contents
Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 A journey through history. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14
Olive oil today. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 SuperOlio – The birth of a movement . . . . . . . . . . . 34 SuperOlio – More diverse than ever . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 How is a SuperOlio created? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Producer portraits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 SuperOlio – Healthier than ever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 SuperOlio – More aromatic than ever . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Recipes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Practical tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Appendix. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298
SuperOlio
Contents — 5
The Badia a Passignano abbey on a Tuscan hilltop 10
SuperOlio
The Gentile di Chieti olive variety ripening in Abruzzo SuperOlio
11
The Badia a Passignano abbey on a Tuscan hilltop 10
SuperOlio
The Gentile di Chieti olive variety ripening in Abruzzo SuperOlio
11
Olive oil – from remedies to culinary delights
The olive tree – one of the world’s oldest cultivated plants – Wild olive trees and their fruit are believed to have been around since the last ice age, around 35,000 to 40,000 BC. This makes the olive tree one of mankind’s oldest crops and cultivated plants. Olives and very likely the juice pressed from the wild fruit become an integral part of people’s diet and basic body care. The olive branch as a symbol of peace – Some scientists pinpoint the biblical story of Noah’s Ark (Genesis 8:1 to 8:11) to around the end of the last ice age, when the great glacial melt sets in. After the great flood, Noah releases a dove from the ark, which returns with an olive twig in its beak. For Noah, this is a sign that the Earth is once again habitable and that God is no longer angry with humanity. Theologians speak of God’s offering of peace to humanity. In the time of ancient Greece and the Roman Empire, the defeated ask for reconciliation by carrying olive branches in their hands. Heads of households often presented their guests with an olive branch as a sign of friendship and peace. The origin of today’s Olea europaea olive tree – The origin of the modern-day olive tree Olea europaea can be traced back to the south of the Caucasus, the plateaus of today’s Iran and the Mediterranean coastlines of Syria and Palestine. Around 8,500 BC, the first groups of people settle in this region around Mesopotamia. In addition to cropping and livestock breeding, these communities also begin to domesticate wild plants, including olive trees, in order to enhance their usefulness for food and skin care. The Mesopotamians continue to cultivate the olive tree, which later spreads throughout the Mediterranean. Olives become an important source of fat for mankind. 16 — A journey through history
Traces of the oldest olive oil: 8,000 years old – During construction work, the remnants of a sizeable ancient settlement near Zippori in Israel are discovered by chance and subsequently excavated by Israeli archaeologists. The University of Jerusalem identify organic remains in pieces of a clay vessel found at the site as olive oil and dates them at around 8,000 years old. To date, this is the earliest evidence of olive oil production in the world. Olive oil as a remedy and important part of religious rituals – About 2,000 BC, the oil obtained from the fruit of the olive tree is used less as a source of food for man, and more as a remedy. Shamans and the first medicine men use it to clean and care for wounds, and as pain relief and massage oil to stimulate blood circulation and relax muscles. As a remedy, it benefits warriors and soldiers. It is also applied to the skin as sun protection or used for stomach, intestinal and liver complaints. Since time immemorial, olive oil has been an important part of the sacred rites of different civilisations and religions. The Phoenicians bring the olive tree to Greece – Under the reign of the Phoenicians, a Semitic people from the area of today’s Lebanon, Syria and Israel, olive growing begins around 1,600 BC on the Greek islands of Cyprus, Rhodes and Crete. In the west of Crete, the oldest olive trees in Europe, thought to be over 4,000 years old, still stand. About two centuries later, the cultivation of olive trees begins on the Greek mainland. The goddess Athena and her wise gift – In ancient Greece, one of the best-known founding myths of a city plays out around that time: the city built on a rocky outcrop is predicted to have a glorious future. So glorious, in fact, that a dispute erupts between the mighty god of the SuperOlio
sea Poseidon, brother of the king of the gods Zeus, and Athena, the goddess of wisdom and warfare, about the patronage and thus the naming of the city. Zeus calls for a competition and lays down the rules. The city will be named after the one who gives the most useful gift. Poseidon creates a spring, albeit filled with salt water from his kingdom. Forcing her lance into a rock of the city, Athena brings forth an olive tree with silvery leaves. This gives the people wood, which in turn provides fuel for warmth; the fruit provides nourishment, and the juice heals their wounds and gives them light. Zeus declares Athena the winner of the competition and the city is named Athens after its new patron saint. The sacred olive tree on the Acropolis – A sacred olive tree stands in the courtyard of the Pandroseion on the Acropolis, a temple dedicated to Pandrosus, the first priestess of the goddess Athena. It grows in the place where Athena, according to the city’s founding myth, plunged her lance into the ground. When the Persians destroy the temple in 480 BC, the olive tree perishes in the fire. A day later, however, a new, strong shoot is said to have sprouted. The olive tree becomes the symbol of the invincibility of Athens. Today on this site, an olive tree grows, however it was planted by the Greek Queen Sophia of Prussia around the year 1900. The ancient Greeks: leaders in olive oil consumption – In the glorious times of Athens, olive oil is a precious commodity for most of the population, depending on their financial status. A warrior of ancient Athens, who uses the gymnasion, a type of ancient fitness studio, for his intensive and regular training, uses about 30 litres of olive oil per year alone for skin care, another 20 litres for consumption, a couple of litres for religious rituals, around 3 litres as a lubricant and light source, and 0.5 SuperOlio
litres for medicinal or therapeutic purposes. Today, Greece still ranks first in the list of countries with the highest annual consumption of olive oil per capita, albeit with a »mere« 13 litres per person. Homer’s liquid gold – Lasting testimony to the value of the olive tree and the juice of its fruit in ancient Greece can be found in the words of the first great poet of the Occident, Homer (800 to 700 BC), the author of the Iliad and Odyssey Greek epics. In his writings, he refers to olive oil for the first time as »liquid gold«. Olympic Games awards: Premium olive oil – At the first Olympic Games in 776 BC, an olive branch is awarded to the winners of the competitions in memory of the patroness Athena and as a sign of brotherhood and peace. The prize for victory also includes amphorae full of premium quality olive oil. Only a small amount of this olive oil will be consumed, most of it is used for massage, personal care and physical training of the Olympic athletes. Depending on the discipline, the winner receives different quantities of amphorae. The winner of the chariot race – the Formula One of Ancient Olympics – receives 140 vessels, each able to hold about 36.2 litres. The defeated finalist in a javelin-throwing event earns just one amphora. Death penalty for felling olive trees – Given that olive oil is highly valued for personal hygiene as part of the staple diet and revered in many religious rituals, the olive tree is protected under the strictest laws. Solon of Athens, one of the Seven Sages of Greece, issues a decree in the 6th century BC, which states that the felling of olive trees is a crime punishable with exile or even death. Olive oil as a medicinal cure-all – Not long after, around 400 BC, Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine, A journey through history — 17
Olive oil – from remedies to culinary delights
The olive tree – one of the world’s oldest cultivated plants – Wild olive trees and their fruit are believed to have been around since the last ice age, around 35,000 to 40,000 BC. This makes the olive tree one of mankind’s oldest crops and cultivated plants. Olives and very likely the juice pressed from the wild fruit become an integral part of people’s diet and basic body care. The olive branch as a symbol of peace – Some scientists pinpoint the biblical story of Noah’s Ark (Genesis 8:1 to 8:11) to around the end of the last ice age, when the great glacial melt sets in. After the great flood, Noah releases a dove from the ark, which returns with an olive twig in its beak. For Noah, this is a sign that the Earth is once again habitable and that God is no longer angry with humanity. Theologians speak of God’s offering of peace to humanity. In the time of ancient Greece and the Roman Empire, the defeated ask for reconciliation by carrying olive branches in their hands. Heads of households often presented their guests with an olive branch as a sign of friendship and peace. The origin of today’s Olea europaea olive tree – The origin of the modern-day olive tree Olea europaea can be traced back to the south of the Caucasus, the plateaus of today’s Iran and the Mediterranean coastlines of Syria and Palestine. Around 8,500 BC, the first groups of people settle in this region around Mesopotamia. In addition to cropping and livestock breeding, these communities also begin to domesticate wild plants, including olive trees, in order to enhance their usefulness for food and skin care. The Mesopotamians continue to cultivate the olive tree, which later spreads throughout the Mediterranean. Olives become an important source of fat for mankind. 16 — A journey through history
Traces of the oldest olive oil: 8,000 years old – During construction work, the remnants of a sizeable ancient settlement near Zippori in Israel are discovered by chance and subsequently excavated by Israeli archaeologists. The University of Jerusalem identify organic remains in pieces of a clay vessel found at the site as olive oil and dates them at around 8,000 years old. To date, this is the earliest evidence of olive oil production in the world. Olive oil as a remedy and important part of religious rituals – About 2,000 BC, the oil obtained from the fruit of the olive tree is used less as a source of food for man, and more as a remedy. Shamans and the first medicine men use it to clean and care for wounds, and as pain relief and massage oil to stimulate blood circulation and relax muscles. As a remedy, it benefits warriors and soldiers. It is also applied to the skin as sun protection or used for stomach, intestinal and liver complaints. Since time immemorial, olive oil has been an important part of the sacred rites of different civilisations and religions. The Phoenicians bring the olive tree to Greece – Under the reign of the Phoenicians, a Semitic people from the area of today’s Lebanon, Syria and Israel, olive growing begins around 1,600 BC on the Greek islands of Cyprus, Rhodes and Crete. In the west of Crete, the oldest olive trees in Europe, thought to be over 4,000 years old, still stand. About two centuries later, the cultivation of olive trees begins on the Greek mainland. The goddess Athena and her wise gift – In ancient Greece, one of the best-known founding myths of a city plays out around that time: the city built on a rocky outcrop is predicted to have a glorious future. So glorious, in fact, that a dispute erupts between the mighty god of the SuperOlio
sea Poseidon, brother of the king of the gods Zeus, and Athena, the goddess of wisdom and warfare, about the patronage and thus the naming of the city. Zeus calls for a competition and lays down the rules. The city will be named after the one who gives the most useful gift. Poseidon creates a spring, albeit filled with salt water from his kingdom. Forcing her lance into a rock of the city, Athena brings forth an olive tree with silvery leaves. This gives the people wood, which in turn provides fuel for warmth; the fruit provides nourishment, and the juice heals their wounds and gives them light. Zeus declares Athena the winner of the competition and the city is named Athens after its new patron saint. The sacred olive tree on the Acropolis – A sacred olive tree stands in the courtyard of the Pandroseion on the Acropolis, a temple dedicated to Pandrosus, the first priestess of the goddess Athena. It grows in the place where Athena, according to the city’s founding myth, plunged her lance into the ground. When the Persians destroy the temple in 480 BC, the olive tree perishes in the fire. A day later, however, a new, strong shoot is said to have sprouted. The olive tree becomes the symbol of the invincibility of Athens. Today on this site, an olive tree grows, however it was planted by the Greek Queen Sophia of Prussia around the year 1900. The ancient Greeks: leaders in olive oil consumption – In the glorious times of Athens, olive oil is a precious commodity for most of the population, depending on their financial status. A warrior of ancient Athens, who uses the gymnasion, a type of ancient fitness studio, for his intensive and regular training, uses about 30 litres of olive oil per year alone for skin care, another 20 litres for consumption, a couple of litres for religious rituals, around 3 litres as a lubricant and light source, and 0.5 SuperOlio
litres for medicinal or therapeutic purposes. Today, Greece still ranks first in the list of countries with the highest annual consumption of olive oil per capita, albeit with a »mere« 13 litres per person. Homer’s liquid gold – Lasting testimony to the value of the olive tree and the juice of its fruit in ancient Greece can be found in the words of the first great poet of the Occident, Homer (800 to 700 BC), the author of the Iliad and Odyssey Greek epics. In his writings, he refers to olive oil for the first time as »liquid gold«. Olympic Games awards: Premium olive oil – At the first Olympic Games in 776 BC, an olive branch is awarded to the winners of the competitions in memory of the patroness Athena and as a sign of brotherhood and peace. The prize for victory also includes amphorae full of premium quality olive oil. Only a small amount of this olive oil will be consumed, most of it is used for massage, personal care and physical training of the Olympic athletes. Depending on the discipline, the winner receives different quantities of amphorae. The winner of the chariot race – the Formula One of Ancient Olympics – receives 140 vessels, each able to hold about 36.2 litres. The defeated finalist in a javelin-throwing event earns just one amphora. Death penalty for felling olive trees – Given that olive oil is highly valued for personal hygiene as part of the staple diet and revered in many religious rituals, the olive tree is protected under the strictest laws. Solon of Athens, one of the Seven Sages of Greece, issues a decree in the 6th century BC, which states that the felling of olive trees is a crime punishable with exile or even death. Olive oil as a medicinal cure-all – Not long after, around 400 BC, Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine, A journey through history — 17
Andreas März Founder and editor in chief of the German magazine MERUM, Olive oil producer Lamporecchio Tuscany
The native of Switzerland, Andreas März, is the founder of MERUM, a magazine that focusses on Italian wine and olive oil. For almost 40 years he has lived with his family in the Tuscan hills near Vinci, the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci. With help from his sons, the agronomy graduate farms the Azienda Agricola Balduccio, including 15 hectares planted with more than 5,000 olive trees. In their state-ofthe-art oil mill, they process their own and bought-in olives as well as neighbours’ harvests. For decades, the 69-year-old dynamo has been fighting for better quality olive oil and for preserving the olive tree landscape. In 2005, an oil bottling group sued him for harming its image after a MERUM editorial team published an olive oil test. In the test at that time, an officially recognised panel of olive oil tasters in Italy sampled 31 supermarket oils and came to the conclusion that only one of them deserved the highest extra-virgin quality grade. The trial lasted for years until a judge ruled in favour of Andreas März. »That was my salvation. A different verdict would have ruined me financially,« März says of those stressful years. 28 — Olive oil today
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
A consumer stands in front of a supermarket shelf filled with olive oils and sees products ranging in price from less than eight to over 40 euro per litre. Almost all labels state the same quality grade: extra-virgin olive oil. Which bottle should the consumer choose? Supermarket shelves are almost always filled with oils from industrial bottlers. These are the companies that buy olive oil on the wholesale market and then bottle them under their various brand names. It would be rare to find a high-quality olive oil and certainly not in a discount store. It’s best to buy it at a specialised retailer. Unfortunately, consumers can’t determine the quality of olive oil by the label or the price. It’s only possible to differentiate between good and bad olive oil by the smell and taste. In MERUM, you write that 95% of the commercially available oils should not be declared as extra-virgin and that all these cases are label fraud. How do you come to this assessment? EU legislation on the quality and marketing of olive oils states that extra-virgin olive oil may not have any organoleptic or sensory deficiencies. However, it’s enormously complicated to produce a completely flawless, pure olive oil that deserves the name of this quality class. Only the very best succeed. It’s sigOlive oil today — 29
Andreas März Founder and editor in chief of the German magazine MERUM, Olive oil producer Lamporecchio Tuscany
The native of Switzerland, Andreas März, is the founder of MERUM, a magazine that focusses on Italian wine and olive oil. For almost 40 years he has lived with his family in the Tuscan hills near Vinci, the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci. With help from his sons, the agronomy graduate farms the Azienda Agricola Balduccio, including 15 hectares planted with more than 5,000 olive trees. In their state-ofthe-art oil mill, they process their own and bought-in olives as well as neighbours’ harvests. For decades, the 69-year-old dynamo has been fighting for better quality olive oil and for preserving the olive tree landscape. In 2005, an oil bottling group sued him for harming its image after a MERUM editorial team published an olive oil test. In the test at that time, an officially recognised panel of olive oil tasters in Italy sampled 31 supermarket oils and came to the conclusion that only one of them deserved the highest extra-virgin quality grade. The trial lasted for years until a judge ruled in favour of Andreas März. »That was my salvation. A different verdict would have ruined me financially,« März says of those stressful years. 28 — Olive oil today
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
A consumer stands in front of a supermarket shelf filled with olive oils and sees products ranging in price from less than eight to over 40 euro per litre. Almost all labels state the same quality grade: extra-virgin olive oil. Which bottle should the consumer choose? Supermarket shelves are almost always filled with oils from industrial bottlers. These are the companies that buy olive oil on the wholesale market and then bottle them under their various brand names. It would be rare to find a high-quality olive oil and certainly not in a discount store. It’s best to buy it at a specialised retailer. Unfortunately, consumers can’t determine the quality of olive oil by the label or the price. It’s only possible to differentiate between good and bad olive oil by the smell and taste. In MERUM, you write that 95% of the commercially available oils should not be declared as extra-virgin and that all these cases are label fraud. How do you come to this assessment? EU legislation on the quality and marketing of olive oils states that extra-virgin olive oil may not have any organoleptic or sensory deficiencies. However, it’s enormously complicated to produce a completely flawless, pure olive oil that deserves the name of this quality class. Only the very best succeed. It’s sigOlive oil today — 29
Oil is no longer simply »made« from olives, it’s created.
The fact that today’s premium olive oil is healthier and more aromatic than ever before can be closely attributed to the development of cutting-edge oil mill technology. Around the turn of the millennium, several pioneers of today’s SuperOlio scene initiated this wave of innovation. One of them was the esteemed Italian wine journalist Luigi Veronelli ( † 2004 ). In 2001, he instigated an olive oil manifesto. With this, he aimed to set in motion in the olive oil sector what the wine industry had achieved decades prior: to make incomparable products that reflect the terroir, the particular olive variety, and the producer’s unique signature. Around the same time, the Tuscan agronomist and oenologist Dr. Marco Mugelli ( † 2011 ), began to look at the processing of olives to oil from a completely fresh perspective: moving away from the traditional approach of the greatest possible oil yield and towards sensory qualities. His extraordinary talent for recognising oils by smell and taste, identifying problems in the oil and understanding the link with the respective processing method, led to groundbreaking discoveries in the development of new oil mill technology. He found kindred campaigners in the Tuscan oil mill engineer Giorgio Mori and the food chemist Dr. Marzia Migliorini, the director of the research and analysis laboratory of the Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Florence at that time. A lively exchange between universities, chambers of commerce and specialists in the sector accelerated the advancement of quality that suddenly became possible. 36 — SuperOlio – the birth of a movement
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
The work of the University of Perugia with internationally acclaimed scientists such as Maurizio Servili, Professor of Food Science and Technology, contributed greatly to the quality push. Could this olive oil revolution have taken place without such strong and exceptionally talented characters like Marco Mugelli? Probably not. Initially, the resistance and concerns against anything new were huge; setbacks were the order of the day. However, this man, the agronomist and pioneer, did not give in, but clung tightly to his intuitive theories. He was stubborn and irritating, yet these were the very qualities that enabled his new ideas to eventually gain attention and traction amongst the inside establishment. Over the years, many of his assumptions would be scientifically substantiated. With today’s knowledge of enzymatic actions and reactions in olive processing, producers can regulate and control the production processes much more than ever before thanks to new oil mill technologies. They no longer just »make« oil from olives, they create it. Thanks to Mugelli, Mori and their comrades-in-arms from Tuscany, to Servili and his academic colleagues from the University of Perugia, the oil mill manufacturer Pieralisi from the town of Jesi in the Marche region, and other trailblazers in the producer scene such as Giorgio Franci from Tuscany and Marco Viola from Umbria, these central Italian regions have become the cradle of a new olive oil culture that has spread across national borders and beyond. A completely new quality category for olive oil has emerged. SuperOlio – the birth of a movement — 37
Oil is no longer simply »made« from olives, it’s created.
The fact that today’s premium olive oil is healthier and more aromatic than ever before can be closely attributed to the development of cutting-edge oil mill technology. Around the turn of the millennium, several pioneers of today’s SuperOlio scene initiated this wave of innovation. One of them was the esteemed Italian wine journalist Luigi Veronelli ( † 2004 ). In 2001, he instigated an olive oil manifesto. With this, he aimed to set in motion in the olive oil sector what the wine industry had achieved decades prior: to make incomparable products that reflect the terroir, the particular olive variety, and the producer’s unique signature. Around the same time, the Tuscan agronomist and oenologist Dr. Marco Mugelli ( † 2011 ), began to look at the processing of olives to oil from a completely fresh perspective: moving away from the traditional approach of the greatest possible oil yield and towards sensory qualities. His extraordinary talent for recognising oils by smell and taste, identifying problems in the oil and understanding the link with the respective processing method, led to groundbreaking discoveries in the development of new oil mill technology. He found kindred campaigners in the Tuscan oil mill engineer Giorgio Mori and the food chemist Dr. Marzia Migliorini, the director of the research and analysis laboratory of the Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Florence at that time. A lively exchange between universities, chambers of commerce and specialists in the sector accelerated the advancement of quality that suddenly became possible. 36 — SuperOlio – the birth of a movement
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
The work of the University of Perugia with internationally acclaimed scientists such as Maurizio Servili, Professor of Food Science and Technology, contributed greatly to the quality push. Could this olive oil revolution have taken place without such strong and exceptionally talented characters like Marco Mugelli? Probably not. Initially, the resistance and concerns against anything new were huge; setbacks were the order of the day. However, this man, the agronomist and pioneer, did not give in, but clung tightly to his intuitive theories. He was stubborn and irritating, yet these were the very qualities that enabled his new ideas to eventually gain attention and traction amongst the inside establishment. Over the years, many of his assumptions would be scientifically substantiated. With today’s knowledge of enzymatic actions and reactions in olive processing, producers can regulate and control the production processes much more than ever before thanks to new oil mill technologies. They no longer just »make« oil from olives, they create it. Thanks to Mugelli, Mori and their comrades-in-arms from Tuscany, to Servili and his academic colleagues from the University of Perugia, the oil mill manufacturer Pieralisi from the town of Jesi in the Marche region, and other trailblazers in the producer scene such as Giorgio Franci from Tuscany and Marco Viola from Umbria, these central Italian regions have become the cradle of a new olive oil culture that has spread across national borders and beyond. A completely new quality category for olive oil has emerged. SuperOlio – the birth of a movement — 37
Barbara Alfei Agronomist and leader of the ASSAM Marche tasters’ panel Jesi Marche region
The exuberant agronomist Barbara Alfei is constantly on the go. Her mission: to preserve the diversity of Italian olive varieties and promote their further development. In the early 1990s, she joined forces with ASSAM, the public authority for the promotion of agriculture in the Marche region, to research autochthonous olive varieties and the virgin olive oils extracted from them. For ASSAM, she organised the »Rassegna Nazionale degli Oli Monovarietali« in 2003 together with the renowned olive expert and publicist Antonio Ricci ( † 2017 ) and one of the most influential agronomists for olive cultivation, Giorgio Pannelli. The »Rassegna«, since then held annually, is a fair for monovarietal olive oils from Italy for interested consumers. Meanwhile, ASSAM and its Bologna-based partner organisation, the Istituto di Biometeorologia, were compiling the largest database of monovarietal olive oils from Italy. This database represents a treasure trove of knowledge about Italy’s olive culture. Barbara, what makes Italy different to other olive growing countries? It’s undoubtedly our great heritage of biodiversity. In Italy, there are around 540 different types of olives. No other country has such a wide variety. Spain ranks second with around 270 olive varieties, Greece is in third place with around 50. Our biodiversity is based on our different climatic zones and soil conditions. The olive varieties are closely linked to the respec48 — SuperOlio – more diverse than ever
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
tive growing regions. An olive oil that we produce in a certain region with a certain olive variety cannot be reproduced anywhere else in the world. Why is it that a region like the Marche, which contributes less than two percent of the national olive oil production, is so engaged in this topic? Although the Marche region is small, we have about 20 olive varieties here. This has motivated us to improve and promote our autochthonous varieties. We can’t do it on our own, obviously. We have to create synergies, and that’s what we’ve been doing for the last 15 years with our Rassegna Nazionale degli Oli Monovarietali. It’s about sharing knowledge, and improving the quality throughout Italy. How has the quality of the oils improved in recent years? It has increased enormously. Our tasting panel gives every producer who supplies us with olive oil, the chemical analysis as well as a sensory assessment of their oil. It’s important to know where you stand. And so the Rassegna has given producers an incentive to improve from year to year. We request data such as when the olives were harvested, whether the olive grove was irrigated or not, which oil mill system was used to process the olives, and whether the oil was filtered or not. Over the years, this sharing of knowledge has led to a significant improvement in quality among producers. I still remember that hardly anyone filtered their oil in the early SuperOlio – more diverse than ever — 49
Barbara Alfei Agronomist and leader of the ASSAM Marche tasters’ panel Jesi Marche region
The exuberant agronomist Barbara Alfei is constantly on the go. Her mission: to preserve the diversity of Italian olive varieties and promote their further development. In the early 1990s, she joined forces with ASSAM, the public authority for the promotion of agriculture in the Marche region, to research autochthonous olive varieties and the virgin olive oils extracted from them. For ASSAM, she organised the »Rassegna Nazionale degli Oli Monovarietali« in 2003 together with the renowned olive expert and publicist Antonio Ricci ( † 2017 ) and one of the most influential agronomists for olive cultivation, Giorgio Pannelli. The »Rassegna«, since then held annually, is a fair for monovarietal olive oils from Italy for interested consumers. Meanwhile, ASSAM and its Bologna-based partner organisation, the Istituto di Biometeorologia, were compiling the largest database of monovarietal olive oils from Italy. This database represents a treasure trove of knowledge about Italy’s olive culture. Barbara, what makes Italy different to other olive growing countries? It’s undoubtedly our great heritage of biodiversity. In Italy, there are around 540 different types of olives. No other country has such a wide variety. Spain ranks second with around 270 olive varieties, Greece is in third place with around 50. Our biodiversity is based on our different climatic zones and soil conditions. The olive varieties are closely linked to the respec48 — SuperOlio – more diverse than ever
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
tive growing regions. An olive oil that we produce in a certain region with a certain olive variety cannot be reproduced anywhere else in the world. Why is it that a region like the Marche, which contributes less than two percent of the national olive oil production, is so engaged in this topic? Although the Marche region is small, we have about 20 olive varieties here. This has motivated us to improve and promote our autochthonous varieties. We can’t do it on our own, obviously. We have to create synergies, and that’s what we’ve been doing for the last 15 years with our Rassegna Nazionale degli Oli Monovarietali. It’s about sharing knowledge, and improving the quality throughout Italy. How has the quality of the oils improved in recent years? It has increased enormously. Our tasting panel gives every producer who supplies us with olive oil, the chemical analysis as well as a sensory assessment of their oil. It’s important to know where you stand. And so the Rassegna has given producers an incentive to improve from year to year. We request data such as when the olives were harvested, whether the olive grove was irrigated or not, which oil mill system was used to process the olives, and whether the oil was filtered or not. Over the years, this sharing of knowledge has led to a significant improvement in quality among producers. I still remember that hardly anyone filtered their oil in the early SuperOlio – more diverse than ever — 49
An overview of the most important Italian olive varieties
Italy is the country with the largest number of olive varieties in the world. Around 540 species grow in very different climate zones: from the southernmost island of Sicily to the northern shores of Lake Garda. The following pages highlight the aroma and taste profiles as well as the original cultivation regions of the most important varieties. Aromas and tastes can vary slightly depending on the year and time of the harvest. The averages have been taken from information collated in the Marche region over the last 15 years for the annual Italian virgin olive oil trade fair.
Source of information: Guida agli Oli Monovarietali d’Italia, ASSAM Marche, 2018; Oli Monovarietali – Agenzia Servizi Settore Agroalimentare delle Marche; Barbara Alfei, Giorgio Pannelli, Antonio Ricci, 2013
Origin
Dominant aroma
Secondary aromas
Taste
Ascolana Tenera
This olive variety originates from the Marche region and is distributed mainly around the town of Ascoli Piceno. Its thin skin gives the olive its name: »Tenera« means thin or delicate. The Ascolana Tenera is also popular as a table olive.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass and leaves
Vine tomato, artichoke, green almond
Pungent, bitter notes, medium to intense fruitiness
Bianchera
This olive variety originates from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia province and is also grown in neighbouring Slovenia and Croatia. The Bianchera olive tree has adapted well to extreme weather conditions, from icy dry winds from the north and the hot sirocco from the Sahara.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass, leaves and artichoke
Vine tomato, green almond
Pungent, bitter notes, medium to intense fruitiness
Biancolilla
This olive variety is grown mainly in Sicily in the provinces of Trapani, Palermo and Agrigento. It thrives at higher altitudes, as it copes well with cold and late frosts. Its name comes from its colour: The fruit is initially almost a whitish-green »bianco« before changing to pink and violet »lilla«.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass and leaves
Green almond, artichoke and vine tomato
Pungent, bitter notes, medium fruitiness
Bosana
Sardinia is the home of the Bosana. It is particularly common in the provinces of Sassari and Nuoro. This olive variety withstands the cold well, but is prone to olive fruit fly infestation. The fruit tends to ripen late.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass, leaves and artichoke
Green almond and vine tomato
Pungent, bitter notes, medium fruitiness
Carolea
This olive variety originates from the region of Calabria, which produces around 17 percent of Italy’s olive oil. This puts Calabria second to Apulia in the regional rankings for the largest olive oil production, followed by Sicily in third place with around 12 percent. The Carolea is planted mainly in northern Calabria. Its shape is similar to that of a lemon.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass and wild herbs
Green almond, artichoke and occasionally vine tomato
Pungent, bitter notes, medium fruitiness
56 — SuperOlio – more diverse than ever
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
SuperOlio – more diverse than ever — 57
An overview of the most important Italian olive varieties
Italy is the country with the largest number of olive varieties in the world. Around 540 species grow in very different climate zones: from the southernmost island of Sicily to the northern shores of Lake Garda. The following pages highlight the aroma and taste profiles as well as the original cultivation regions of the most important varieties. Aromas and tastes can vary slightly depending on the year and time of the harvest. The averages have been taken from information collated in the Marche region over the last 15 years for the annual Italian virgin olive oil trade fair.
Source of information: Guida agli Oli Monovarietali d’Italia, ASSAM Marche, 2018; Oli Monovarietali – Agenzia Servizi Settore Agroalimentare delle Marche; Barbara Alfei, Giorgio Pannelli, Antonio Ricci, 2013
Origin
Dominant aroma
Secondary aromas
Taste
Ascolana Tenera
This olive variety originates from the Marche region and is distributed mainly around the town of Ascoli Piceno. Its thin skin gives the olive its name: »Tenera« means thin or delicate. The Ascolana Tenera is also popular as a table olive.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass and leaves
Vine tomato, artichoke, green almond
Pungent, bitter notes, medium to intense fruitiness
Bianchera
This olive variety originates from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia province and is also grown in neighbouring Slovenia and Croatia. The Bianchera olive tree has adapted well to extreme weather conditions, from icy dry winds from the north and the hot sirocco from the Sahara.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass, leaves and artichoke
Vine tomato, green almond
Pungent, bitter notes, medium to intense fruitiness
Biancolilla
This olive variety is grown mainly in Sicily in the provinces of Trapani, Palermo and Agrigento. It thrives at higher altitudes, as it copes well with cold and late frosts. Its name comes from its colour: The fruit is initially almost a whitish-green »bianco« before changing to pink and violet »lilla«.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass and leaves
Green almond, artichoke and vine tomato
Pungent, bitter notes, medium fruitiness
Bosana
Sardinia is the home of the Bosana. It is particularly common in the provinces of Sassari and Nuoro. This olive variety withstands the cold well, but is prone to olive fruit fly infestation. The fruit tends to ripen late.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass, leaves and artichoke
Green almond and vine tomato
Pungent, bitter notes, medium fruitiness
Carolea
This olive variety originates from the region of Calabria, which produces around 17 percent of Italy’s olive oil. This puts Calabria second to Apulia in the regional rankings for the largest olive oil production, followed by Sicily in third place with around 12 percent. The Carolea is planted mainly in northern Calabria. Its shape is similar to that of a lemon.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass and wild herbs
Green almond, artichoke and occasionally vine tomato
Pungent, bitter notes, medium fruitiness
56 — SuperOlio – more diverse than ever
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
SuperOlio – more diverse than ever — 57
Origin
Dominant aroma
Secondary aromas
Taste
Casaliva
This olive variety is found in all three regions around Lake Garda: Trento, Lombardy and Veneto. Genetically, it is very similar to the Tuscan olive varieties Frantoio and the Ligurian Taggiasca.
Green almond
Herbaceous, grassy notes, artichoke, occasionally green apple
Mostly medium strength bitter notes. Pungency is mid-tostrong in intensity depending on harvest time and crop year.
Cerasuola
The Cerasuola is grown all over Sicily. Of all Sicilian olive varieties, the Cerasuola has the highest levels of polyphenols, which lend the oil a strong bitterness, higher than all other Sicilian olive varieties such as Biancolilla, Tonda Iblea or Nocellara del Belice.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass and leaves
Green almond, artichoke, vine tomato
Medium tending to intense pungency and bitterness
Coratina
The Coratina from Apulia is notorious for its powerful bitterness and pungency. In good years, Coratina oils achieve peak levels in excess of 1,000 mg/kg of antioxidative polyphenols. The olive variety is grown mainly in the Bari province.
Green almond
Grassy notes, artichoke, globe artichoke
Medium tending to intense pungency and strong bitter notes
Frantoio
Frantoio is one of the most commonly planted olive varieties in the world. It originated from Tuscany. A whole range of genetically similar olive varieties emerged from the Frantoio olive: Taggiasca in Liguria, Casaliva at Lake Garda and Raggia or Raggiola in the Marche region.
Green almond
Grassy notes, artichoke
Medium to intense fruitiness, with well-balanced bitterness and medium pungency
Gentile di Chieti
The name translates as »the mild one from Chieti«, which alludes to the taste of the olive oil. It is mildly fruity with a subtle bitterness and pleasantly spicy. The olive variety is mainly cultivated in the Chieti province of the Abruzzo region.
Green almond
Grassy notes, artichoke
Mild to medium fruitiness, with subtle bitter notes and medium pungency
Intosso
Up until the early 1970s, the Intosso olive from the Chieti area of the Abruzzo region was the most popular table olive in Italy. Oil was rarely extracted from these olives, as the variety contains less oil than other olives in relation to its size and weight. Local producers have only recently rediscovered this almost forgotten olive variety.
Grassy, herbaceous notes, artichoke
Green almond, vine tomato
Medium to intense fruitiness, moderately bitter notes in the mouth with medium-peppery pungency
Itrana
This olive variety is characterised by its intense aroma of vine tomatoes, similar to the bouquet of the Sicilian Tonda Iblea or Nocellara del Belice. The Itrana originates from the Lazio region and is predominantly grown in the province of Latina.
Leaves and fruit of vine tomato
Artichoke, green almond
Medium to intense fruitiness, moderately bitter notes in the mouth with medium-peppery pungency
58 — SuperOlio – more diverse than ever
SuperOlio
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SuperOlio – more diverse than ever — 59
Origin
Dominant aroma
Secondary aromas
Taste
Casaliva
This olive variety is found in all three regions around Lake Garda: Trento, Lombardy and Veneto. Genetically, it is very similar to the Tuscan olive varieties Frantoio and the Ligurian Taggiasca.
Green almond
Herbaceous, grassy notes, artichoke, occasionally green apple
Mostly medium strength bitter notes. Pungency is mid-tostrong in intensity depending on harvest time and crop year.
Cerasuola
The Cerasuola is grown all over Sicily. Of all Sicilian olive varieties, the Cerasuola has the highest levels of polyphenols, which lend the oil a strong bitterness, higher than all other Sicilian olive varieties such as Biancolilla, Tonda Iblea or Nocellara del Belice.
Herbaceous notes of freshly cut grass and leaves
Green almond, artichoke, vine tomato
Medium tending to intense pungency and bitterness
Coratina
The Coratina from Apulia is notorious for its powerful bitterness and pungency. In good years, Coratina oils achieve peak levels in excess of 1,000 mg/kg of antioxidative polyphenols. The olive variety is grown mainly in the Bari province.
Green almond
Grassy notes, artichoke, globe artichoke
Medium tending to intense pungency and strong bitter notes
Frantoio
Frantoio is one of the most commonly planted olive varieties in the world. It originated from Tuscany. A whole range of genetically similar olive varieties emerged from the Frantoio olive: Taggiasca in Liguria, Casaliva at Lake Garda and Raggia or Raggiola in the Marche region.
Green almond
Grassy notes, artichoke
Medium to intense fruitiness, with well-balanced bitterness and medium pungency
Gentile di Chieti
The name translates as »the mild one from Chieti«, which alludes to the taste of the olive oil. It is mildly fruity with a subtle bitterness and pleasantly spicy. The olive variety is mainly cultivated in the Chieti province of the Abruzzo region.
Green almond
Grassy notes, artichoke
Mild to medium fruitiness, with subtle bitter notes and medium pungency
Intosso
Up until the early 1970s, the Intosso olive from the Chieti area of the Abruzzo region was the most popular table olive in Italy. Oil was rarely extracted from these olives, as the variety contains less oil than other olives in relation to its size and weight. Local producers have only recently rediscovered this almost forgotten olive variety.
Grassy, herbaceous notes, artichoke
Green almond, vine tomato
Medium to intense fruitiness, moderately bitter notes in the mouth with medium-peppery pungency
Itrana
This olive variety is characterised by its intense aroma of vine tomatoes, similar to the bouquet of the Sicilian Tonda Iblea or Nocellara del Belice. The Itrana originates from the Lazio region and is predominantly grown in the province of Latina.
Leaves and fruit of vine tomato
Artichoke, green almond
Medium to intense fruitiness, moderately bitter notes in the mouth with medium-peppery pungency
58 — SuperOlio – more diverse than ever
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
SuperOlio – more diverse than ever — 59
The harvest
To achieve top quality, the producer must recognise the most favourable time to harvest, which can vary between varieties and from year to year due to climatic conditions. The goal is to produce a highly-aromatic olive oil with a high polyphenol content, which growers can only achieve if they pick early when the olives are still at an early ripening stage. This is usually determined by the colour of the fruit. This means that the optimal harvesting time for excellence is reached when the colour of the olives on the tree change from an intense green to a bright yellow and light purple. All olives are green at first and then turn black depending on the degree of ripeness. The producer cannot rely solely on this by looks alone. He must also be able to »read« them. Was the weather very hot? Has the fruit suffered from drought? In these cases, the olives will change colour more quickly, but the olive flesh itself will not have ripened enough and the yield of the resulting oil will be very low and not particularly aromatic. For this reason, top producers always process small test batches of olives in the oil mill to assess how they stand. Through the oil’s smell and taste, a top producer can determine the best harvest time. Researchers are currently looking at more objective criteria, such as the sugar or phenol content in the fruit, a method that the wine-growing industry has used for years. However, the chemical analysis values can still only be used in conjunction with the sensory evaluation. The human nose and palate are still the most important monitoring organs for quality.
branches by means of electric motors or compressed air generators attached to telescopic poles. The olives fall on fine-weave synthetic nets spread out under the trees. If the olives are out of reach on higher branches and twigs, the workers climb a ladder and harvest them by hand with a plastic rake. On large, flatter olive groves, a tree shaker can be used. These are machines that grasp the trunk and give the tree a good shake for a few seconds. The olives detach and fall onto the net.
It is essential that the olives are harvested from the trees. Never use olives that have fallen to the ground, as they have usually been attacked by pests such as the olive fly or fungi and mould or they are overripe and are already well on the way to decomposing. In many growing areas, olives are still collected from the ground and taken to the oil mill for processing. Oil can be made from such olives, for instance low-grade lampante oil ( 3 Glossary Quality Categories pg. 307 ), but never a quality product. Careful harvesting from the trees takes a lot of time and money. Harvesters ‘pick’ the olives from the
This is the point at which things become tricky for small-scale, quality-conscious hobby producers. They are required to bring a minimum volume of at least 200 kilos of olives to their local oil mill to ensure that their fruit is processed separately and not added to the boxes of olives, which often vary in quality, that are delivered by other small landowners in the area. Often, the smallscale farmer needs several days to harvest enough olives to reach this minimum quantity, which means that some of the olives have been in storage for some days and the oxidative processes have already taken place.
72 — How is a SuperOlio created?
Afterwards, the harvested olives are placed in wellventilated, stackable plastic boxes and are then transported as quickly as possible to the oil mill. This type of harvest box ensures that enough air circulates around the fruit and they are not squashed by their own weight. It is definitely not recommended to temporarily store the fruit in large plastic or jute bags, as is still practised in some growing areas. In such bags, the deteriorating process progresses within just a few hours. But why should olives be transported to the oil mill as quickly as possible? From the moment the olives are harvested from the tree, the biological decomposition process begins, slowly at first then at an increasing rate. How quickly the quality of the olives decreases depends on how ripe they are, their variety and the temperature at which the olives are stored until they are processed. The riper and warmer the olives, the faster the rate of decomposition.
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
How is a SuperOlio created? — 73
The harvest
To achieve top quality, the producer must recognise the most favourable time to harvest, which can vary between varieties and from year to year due to climatic conditions. The goal is to produce a highly-aromatic olive oil with a high polyphenol content, which growers can only achieve if they pick early when the olives are still at an early ripening stage. This is usually determined by the colour of the fruit. This means that the optimal harvesting time for excellence is reached when the colour of the olives on the tree change from an intense green to a bright yellow and light purple. All olives are green at first and then turn black depending on the degree of ripeness. The producer cannot rely solely on this by looks alone. He must also be able to »read« them. Was the weather very hot? Has the fruit suffered from drought? In these cases, the olives will change colour more quickly, but the olive flesh itself will not have ripened enough and the yield of the resulting oil will be very low and not particularly aromatic. For this reason, top producers always process small test batches of olives in the oil mill to assess how they stand. Through the oil’s smell and taste, a top producer can determine the best harvest time. Researchers are currently looking at more objective criteria, such as the sugar or phenol content in the fruit, a method that the wine-growing industry has used for years. However, the chemical analysis values can still only be used in conjunction with the sensory evaluation. The human nose and palate are still the most important monitoring organs for quality.
branches by means of electric motors or compressed air generators attached to telescopic poles. The olives fall on fine-weave synthetic nets spread out under the trees. If the olives are out of reach on higher branches and twigs, the workers climb a ladder and harvest them by hand with a plastic rake. On large, flatter olive groves, a tree shaker can be used. These are machines that grasp the trunk and give the tree a good shake for a few seconds. The olives detach and fall onto the net.
It is essential that the olives are harvested from the trees. Never use olives that have fallen to the ground, as they have usually been attacked by pests such as the olive fly or fungi and mould or they are overripe and are already well on the way to decomposing. In many growing areas, olives are still collected from the ground and taken to the oil mill for processing. Oil can be made from such olives, for instance low-grade lampante oil ( 3 Glossary Quality Categories pg. 307 ), but never a quality product. Careful harvesting from the trees takes a lot of time and money. Harvesters ‘pick’ the olives from the
This is the point at which things become tricky for small-scale, quality-conscious hobby producers. They are required to bring a minimum volume of at least 200 kilos of olives to their local oil mill to ensure that their fruit is processed separately and not added to the boxes of olives, which often vary in quality, that are delivered by other small landowners in the area. Often, the smallscale farmer needs several days to harvest enough olives to reach this minimum quantity, which means that some of the olives have been in storage for some days and the oxidative processes have already taken place.
72 — How is a SuperOlio created?
Afterwards, the harvested olives are placed in wellventilated, stackable plastic boxes and are then transported as quickly as possible to the oil mill. This type of harvest box ensures that enough air circulates around the fruit and they are not squashed by their own weight. It is definitely not recommended to temporarily store the fruit in large plastic or jute bags, as is still practised in some growing areas. In such bags, the deteriorating process progresses within just a few hours. But why should olives be transported to the oil mill as quickly as possible? From the moment the olives are harvested from the tree, the biological decomposition process begins, slowly at first then at an increasing rate. How quickly the quality of the olives decreases depends on how ripe they are, their variety and the temperature at which the olives are stored until they are processed. The riper and warmer the olives, the faster the rate of decomposition.
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
How is a SuperOlio created? — 73
Matìa Barciulli Chef, Food & Beverage Manager Marchesi Antinori, San Casciano Val di Pesa Tuscany
Nestled in the rolling hills of Chianti, the Osteria di Passignano stands next to a picturesque medieval monastery. The restaurant with Michelin-star status is part of the company empire of the Antinori family, one of Tuscany’s oldest aristocratic families. Wine connoisseurs from all over the globe are familiar with this name. Their Tignanello red wine, created in 1970 in collaboration with the oenologist Giacomo Tachis, is regarded as the birthplace of the Super Tuscan, a big, bold red wine that ignored DOC regulations and established itself in a category of its own. An interview with Matìa Barciulli, the former chef of the Osteria and now the Food & Beverage Manager of the Marchesi Antinori, is held in the dining room with its impressive terracotta vaulted ceiling. With a cheery »hello«, the energetic young man walks in, joking with a group of American tourists who are on a culinary tour of Tuscany. He briefly chats to the young service staff, who look after the guests with charm and expertise. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the room echoes with an international babble of voices. For such an upmarket restaurant, the atmosphere is lively. Matìa simply says: »If you’re looking for quiet, the church is next door. People come here to eat, drink, and be merry. It shouldn’t be too serious and formal here!« Lunch with the great connoisseur and ambassador for premium olive oil is very enjoyable. In 2013, he and the international association »Ristoranti dell’Olio« (AIRO) initiated the annual olive oil award »Il Magnifico«. 212 — Cuisine
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
Matìa, many people in the olive oil sector talk about a new quality of olive oil that has never existed before. Yes, that’s correct. Thanks to new processing technologies, we’re now in the position to produce clean, pure olive oils. To explain what olive oil is in layman’s terms, I would compare it to an unfinished Michelangelo statue. Michelangelo always said, ‘the sculpture is already complete within the marble block, before I start my work. It is already there, I just have to chisel away the superfluous material.’ Olives are like a marble block. The oil miller ›only‹ has to remove some pulp and skin. They have to find the best possible methods to extract this liquid gold from the fruit and then preserve it well. We’ve made great progress in this regard. As far as quality is concerned, olive oil is now in its heyday. Now is the time to go outside and shout: »People, wake up! When we talk about this type of olive oil, we’re talking about a completely different product!« We don’t compare an alcoholic grape juice in a Tetra Pak with an exquisite bottle of cellared wine. In this new age of olive oil, the price difference between 3 euro for an extra-virgin olive oil from an industrial bottler and a 30 euro bottle of SuperOlio is justified. The extra-virgin category counts for nothing anymore. The industrial bottlers have hijacked this word. We’re tasting three different olive oils in small bowls with chickpeas. It looks lovely! How do you come up with this form of presentation? Marco Mugelli returned from a trip to Spain, where he advised olive oil Cuisine — 213
Matìa Barciulli Chef, Food & Beverage Manager Marchesi Antinori, San Casciano Val di Pesa Tuscany
Nestled in the rolling hills of Chianti, the Osteria di Passignano stands next to a picturesque medieval monastery. The restaurant with Michelin-star status is part of the company empire of the Antinori family, one of Tuscany’s oldest aristocratic families. Wine connoisseurs from all over the globe are familiar with this name. Their Tignanello red wine, created in 1970 in collaboration with the oenologist Giacomo Tachis, is regarded as the birthplace of the Super Tuscan, a big, bold red wine that ignored DOC regulations and established itself in a category of its own. An interview with Matìa Barciulli, the former chef of the Osteria and now the Food & Beverage Manager of the Marchesi Antinori, is held in the dining room with its impressive terracotta vaulted ceiling. With a cheery »hello«, the energetic young man walks in, joking with a group of American tourists who are on a culinary tour of Tuscany. He briefly chats to the young service staff, who look after the guests with charm and expertise. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the room echoes with an international babble of voices. For such an upmarket restaurant, the atmosphere is lively. Matìa simply says: »If you’re looking for quiet, the church is next door. People come here to eat, drink, and be merry. It shouldn’t be too serious and formal here!« Lunch with the great connoisseur and ambassador for premium olive oil is very enjoyable. In 2013, he and the international association »Ristoranti dell’Olio« (AIRO) initiated the annual olive oil award »Il Magnifico«. 212 — Cuisine
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
Matìa, many people in the olive oil sector talk about a new quality of olive oil that has never existed before. Yes, that’s correct. Thanks to new processing technologies, we’re now in the position to produce clean, pure olive oils. To explain what olive oil is in layman’s terms, I would compare it to an unfinished Michelangelo statue. Michelangelo always said, ‘the sculpture is already complete within the marble block, before I start my work. It is already there, I just have to chisel away the superfluous material.’ Olives are like a marble block. The oil miller ›only‹ has to remove some pulp and skin. They have to find the best possible methods to extract this liquid gold from the fruit and then preserve it well. We’ve made great progress in this regard. As far as quality is concerned, olive oil is now in its heyday. Now is the time to go outside and shout: »People, wake up! When we talk about this type of olive oil, we’re talking about a completely different product!« We don’t compare an alcoholic grape juice in a Tetra Pak with an exquisite bottle of cellared wine. In this new age of olive oil, the price difference between 3 euro for an extra-virgin olive oil from an industrial bottler and a 30 euro bottle of SuperOlio is justified. The extra-virgin category counts for nothing anymore. The industrial bottlers have hijacked this word. We’re tasting three different olive oils in small bowls with chickpeas. It looks lovely! How do you come up with this form of presentation? Marco Mugelli returned from a trip to Spain, where he advised olive oil Cuisine — 213
As far as quality is concerned, olive oil is now in its heyday. Now is the time to go outside and shout: »People, wake up! When we talk about this type of olive oil, we’re talking about a completely different product!«
producers. He told me that they do olive oil tastings with chickpeas because they are neutral and are a good match with everything. We’ve taken this idea on and are doing the same with the oil tastings in all our restaurants and wineries. Through us, around 15,000 guests come into contact with premium olive oil every year. Of course, the tastings are also a big help for us to sell our own oil all over the world. How do guests respond to the tastings? Not one has said ›yuck‹, but 99% have said: »What? Really? This is how olive oil tastes?« They are pleasantly surprised. If you do a comparison tasting with an industrially-bottled olive oil, the difference is even more pronounced. The world is ready for this new type of olive oil. However, these oils are almost as hard to come by as gold nuggets. The retail industry still has a lot to do. You are heavily involved in the olive oil sector. Since 2013, you’ve been the president of an association that organised »Il Magnifico«, an annual award event for high-quality olive oil. What was the catalyst for this? This award is dedicated to Marco Mugelli and Massimo Pasquini, two men who contributed a great deal to the modern-day understanding of quality in olive oil. Both died one after the other in the summer of 2011. Marco was a constant prodder, spurring on the research and development. He is one of the conceptual fathers of this new quality category. Thanks to his persistence, his stubborn-
ness, he made a strong impression. What he did certainly got noticed. Massimo, on the other hand, was the director of the Chamber of Commerce in Florence. He started the first tasting panel there and was incredibly active in building bridges between new quality producers and the retail and gastronomy. Together, these two were the driving force behind many changes in this sector. The death of these men has left a painful gap. But as with so many things in life, from great grief something new arises, and the idea for the »Il Magnifico« olive oil award was born. What would you like to achieve with the award? We want to contribute to less olive groves being abandoned, which changes the look of our landscape. In Italy, and in other countries, olive cultivation is no longer economically worthwhile – except for super-intensive cropping. If we manage to sell high-quality olive oil at a price that makes sense to the producer, then this will bring new job opportunities to rural areas. These new quality oils are also an opportunity for gastronomy cultures to thrive in the respective areas. We want to support this. We see all of these goals as a moral obligation to the people who provide us with wonderful products day after day. We are a cultural association. »Il Magnifico« is not a business model with which we earn money. From the outset, we wanted our award to be a sales support for the producers. I think good marketing is enormously important. That’s why we communicate the name Extra Quality Olive Oil, or EQOO for short. I’m convinced that a word can create a new quality Perfect ravioli – filled with SuperOlio
214 — Cuisine
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
Cuisine — 215
As far as quality is concerned, olive oil is now in its heyday. Now is the time to go outside and shout: »People, wake up! When we talk about this type of olive oil, we’re talking about a completely different product!«
producers. He told me that they do olive oil tastings with chickpeas because they are neutral and are a good match with everything. We’ve taken this idea on and are doing the same with the oil tastings in all our restaurants and wineries. Through us, around 15,000 guests come into contact with premium olive oil every year. Of course, the tastings are also a big help for us to sell our own oil all over the world. How do guests respond to the tastings? Not one has said ›yuck‹, but 99% have said: »What? Really? This is how olive oil tastes?« They are pleasantly surprised. If you do a comparison tasting with an industrially-bottled olive oil, the difference is even more pronounced. The world is ready for this new type of olive oil. However, these oils are almost as hard to come by as gold nuggets. The retail industry still has a lot to do. You are heavily involved in the olive oil sector. Since 2013, you’ve been the president of an association that organised »Il Magnifico«, an annual award event for high-quality olive oil. What was the catalyst for this? This award is dedicated to Marco Mugelli and Massimo Pasquini, two men who contributed a great deal to the modern-day understanding of quality in olive oil. Both died one after the other in the summer of 2011. Marco was a constant prodder, spurring on the research and development. He is one of the conceptual fathers of this new quality category. Thanks to his persistence, his stubborn-
ness, he made a strong impression. What he did certainly got noticed. Massimo, on the other hand, was the director of the Chamber of Commerce in Florence. He started the first tasting panel there and was incredibly active in building bridges between new quality producers and the retail and gastronomy. Together, these two were the driving force behind many changes in this sector. The death of these men has left a painful gap. But as with so many things in life, from great grief something new arises, and the idea for the »Il Magnifico« olive oil award was born. What would you like to achieve with the award? We want to contribute to less olive groves being abandoned, which changes the look of our landscape. In Italy, and in other countries, olive cultivation is no longer economically worthwhile – except for super-intensive cropping. If we manage to sell high-quality olive oil at a price that makes sense to the producer, then this will bring new job opportunities to rural areas. These new quality oils are also an opportunity for gastronomy cultures to thrive in the respective areas. We want to support this. We see all of these goals as a moral obligation to the people who provide us with wonderful products day after day. We are a cultural association. »Il Magnifico« is not a business model with which we earn money. From the outset, we wanted our award to be a sales support for the producers. I think good marketing is enormously important. That’s why we communicate the name Extra Quality Olive Oil, or EQOO for short. I’m convinced that a word can create a new quality Perfect ravioli – filled with SuperOlio
214 — Cuisine
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
Cuisine — 215
Olive Oil Butter R avioli Cherry Tomato Salsa, Basil Oil
Serves: 4 people Preparation time: 1½ hours
Ingredients Ingredients for the tomato salsa: 2 garlic cloves 700 g (1½ lbs) cherry tomatoes Olive oil Salt Ingredients for the basil oil: 30 g (1 oz) fresh basil leaves 70 g (⅓ cup) mild olive oil, e.g. Taggiasca from Liguria or Casaliva from Lake Garda
224 — Recipes – Osteria di Passignano
SuperOlio
Preparation For the salsa: Remove stems from cherry tomatoes and slice in half. Sauté the garlic cloves with skin on in olive oil over a low heat, add the cherry tomatoes and simmer at a medium heat for 40 minutes. Press the salsa through a fine sieve, return to the stove and continue to simmer until the desired consistency is formed. Season with a little salt. For the basil oil: Blanch the basil leaves in boiling water, cool with iced water to preserve the green colour. Dry the leaves on a paper towel, place in a blender with the olive oil and mix. For the olive oil butter: Dissolve salt and fructose in the water, then slowly and gradually add the pectin. When a smooth mixture has formed, gently stir in the olive oil. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and let it set for about 40 to 60 minutes, before placing in the fridge. The olive oil butter can be made in advance and will keep in the fridge for about one week.
Ingredients for the olive oil butter: 400 g (1¾ cups) olive oil from Tuscany, medium intensity (hints of green almond) 2 g (½ tsp) salt 5 g (1 tsp) fructose 5 g (1 tsp) pectin 90 g (⅓-½ cup) water Ice cream maker for the preparation
For the pasta dough: Knead all the ingredients well in a food processor for 10 minutes. Wrap the dough in cling film and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes. Roll out the pasta dough on a well-floured surface as thinly as possible by hand or with a pasta machine. Cut the dough in strips of equal width, add cold olive oil butter to each one at regular intervals, 1 teaspoon per ravioli. Overlay a second strip of dough and cut the ravioli into squares. Press all the edges of the ravioli together by hand or with a fork.
Ingredients for the pasta dough: 900 g (2 lbs) flour, type 00 100 g (¾ cup) durum wheat (dusting flour) 400 g (14 oz) eggs, whole 140 g (5 oz) egg yolks
Bring a large pot of water to the boil, add plenty of salt and carefully add the ravioli. Cook for 3–4 minutes and remove with a slotted spoon. Arrange the salsa on plates, add the ravioli and season with basil oil and some parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.
SuperOlio
Recipes – Osteria di Passignano — 225
Olive Oil Butter R avioli Cherry Tomato Salsa, Basil Oil
Serves: 4 people Preparation time: 1½ hours
Ingredients Ingredients for the tomato salsa: 2 garlic cloves 700 g (1½ lbs) cherry tomatoes Olive oil Salt Ingredients for the basil oil: 30 g (1 oz) fresh basil leaves 70 g (⅓ cup) mild olive oil, e.g. Taggiasca from Liguria or Casaliva from Lake Garda
224 — Recipes – Osteria di Passignano
SuperOlio
Preparation For the salsa: Remove stems from cherry tomatoes and slice in half. Sauté the garlic cloves with skin on in olive oil over a low heat, add the cherry tomatoes and simmer at a medium heat for 40 minutes. Press the salsa through a fine sieve, return to the stove and continue to simmer until the desired consistency is formed. Season with a little salt. For the basil oil: Blanch the basil leaves in boiling water, cool with iced water to preserve the green colour. Dry the leaves on a paper towel, place in a blender with the olive oil and mix. For the olive oil butter: Dissolve salt and fructose in the water, then slowly and gradually add the pectin. When a smooth mixture has formed, gently stir in the olive oil. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and let it set for about 40 to 60 minutes, before placing in the fridge. The olive oil butter can be made in advance and will keep in the fridge for about one week.
Ingredients for the olive oil butter: 400 g (1¾ cups) olive oil from Tuscany, medium intensity (hints of green almond) 2 g (½ tsp) salt 5 g (1 tsp) fructose 5 g (1 tsp) pectin 90 g (⅓-½ cup) water Ice cream maker for the preparation
For the pasta dough: Knead all the ingredients well in a food processor for 10 minutes. Wrap the dough in cling film and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes. Roll out the pasta dough on a well-floured surface as thinly as possible by hand or with a pasta machine. Cut the dough in strips of equal width, add cold olive oil butter to each one at regular intervals, 1 teaspoon per ravioli. Overlay a second strip of dough and cut the ravioli into squares. Press all the edges of the ravioli together by hand or with a fork.
Ingredients for the pasta dough: 900 g (2 lbs) flour, type 00 100 g (¾ cup) durum wheat (dusting flour) 400 g (14 oz) eggs, whole 140 g (5 oz) egg yolks
Bring a large pot of water to the boil, add plenty of salt and carefully add the ravioli. Cook for 3–4 minutes and remove with a slotted spoon. Arrange the salsa on plates, add the ravioli and season with basil oil and some parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.
SuperOlio
Recipes – Osteria di Passignano — 225
Tris di Spaghetti aglio e olio Spaghetti with Garlic and Oil – three methods of preparation Serves: 4 people Preparation time: 15–20 minutes Recommended olive oil: medium to robust intensity Dominating aroma: green almond or herbaceous grassy notes Olive oil varieties: Ascolana Tenera, Casaliva, Frantoio, Coratina, Cima di Mola
232 — Recipes – Pasta
SuperOlio
With such a simple dish, the quality of the ingredients is particularly crucial. Many garlic bulbs no longer smell or taste like garlic. Try a reddish variety such as Nubia garlic. Get the most out of the aroma by chopping it just before you serve the pasta. To ensure that the pasta absorbs the olive oil better, choose pasta with a rougher surface, made in the so-called bronze-cut process (trafilatura al bronzo). Below are three different methods of preparation:
Ingredients for the pasta:
Preparation
360 g (13 oz) spaghetti, vermicelli or linguine 24 g (2 Tbsp) coarse sea salt 3 stems of flat leaf parsley 1 large, pink garlic clove
Fill a large pot with 4 litres (1 gallon) of water, add the parsley stems and a peeled garlic clove, crushed with a knife. Shortly before the water boils, add the salt and cook the pasta until al dente. Drain off the cooking water, retaining about 200 ml (¾–1 cup). Choose a method of preparation for the sauce. Place a bottle of olive oil on the table to drizzle more over the pasta as desired.
SuperOlio
Recipes – Pasta — 233
Tris di Spaghetti aglio e olio Spaghetti with Garlic and Oil – three methods of preparation Serves: 4 people Preparation time: 15–20 minutes Recommended olive oil: medium to robust intensity Dominating aroma: green almond or herbaceous grassy notes Olive oil varieties: Ascolana Tenera, Casaliva, Frantoio, Coratina, Cima di Mola
232 — Recipes – Pasta
SuperOlio
With such a simple dish, the quality of the ingredients is particularly crucial. Many garlic bulbs no longer smell or taste like garlic. Try a reddish variety such as Nubia garlic. Get the most out of the aroma by chopping it just before you serve the pasta. To ensure that the pasta absorbs the olive oil better, choose pasta with a rougher surface, made in the so-called bronze-cut process (trafilatura al bronzo). Below are three different methods of preparation:
Ingredients for the pasta:
Preparation
360 g (13 oz) spaghetti, vermicelli or linguine 24 g (2 Tbsp) coarse sea salt 3 stems of flat leaf parsley 1 large, pink garlic clove
Fill a large pot with 4 litres (1 gallon) of water, add the parsley stems and a peeled garlic clove, crushed with a knife. Shortly before the water boils, add the salt and cook the pasta until al dente. Drain off the cooking water, retaining about 200 ml (¾–1 cup). Choose a method of preparation for the sauce. Place a bottle of olive oil on the table to drizzle more over the pasta as desired.
SuperOlio
Recipes – Pasta — 233
Focaccia Focaccia
Serves: 4 people Preparation time: 15 minutes. Baking time: 40 minutes. Resting time: 5½ hours Recommended olive oil: medium intensity Dominating aroma: vine tomatoes, tomato leaves Olive oil varieties: Nocellara del Belice, Nocellara Etnea, Itrana, Peranzana
Ingredients, 1 flatbread 6 g (1 tsp) fresh yeast Pinch of sugar 300 g (2 cups) wheat flour (Tipo 00 or type 550) 150 g (5 oz) floury potato, cooked and mashed Sea salt and sea salt flakes 2 cherry tomatoes, or more if desired 4 black olives, or more if desired Herbs, e.g. sage leaves, sprigs of rosemary, dried oregano, red peppercorns Some semolina or similar dusting flour for working the dough
Preparation Cook the floury potatoes in salted water until tender, allow to steam slightly in a closed pot. Peel and mash. Dissolve the yeast with sugar in 200 ml (1 cup) of lukewarm water. Mix the flour with 10 g (2 tsp) of sea salt. Add the potatoes, 20 ml (4 tsp) of olive oil and the dissolved yeast and knead with the hands only until everything is mixed together and a dough forms. Form the dough into a ball and place in a bowl. Cover and leave to rise for 5 hours in a warm draught-free place. Sprinkle some semolina on baking paper. Carefully drop the dough onto the paper, drizzle with a little olive
242 — Recipes – Pane – Bread
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
oil and spread with the fingers into a rectangular shape. Lightly press the olives and tomatoes into the dough. Sprinkle over some sea salt flakes and let the dough rest for 30 minutes away from any draughts. Preheat the oven and the oven tray to 220˚ C (425˚ F) Place the focaccia with the baking paper on the hot oven tray and bake for about 40 minutes in the middle of the oven until golden brown. Remove from the oven, drizzle immediately with a little olive oil and serve.
Recipes – Pane – Bread — 243
Focaccia Focaccia
Serves: 4 people Preparation time: 15 minutes. Baking time: 40 minutes. Resting time: 5½ hours Recommended olive oil: medium intensity Dominating aroma: vine tomatoes, tomato leaves Olive oil varieties: Nocellara del Belice, Nocellara Etnea, Itrana, Peranzana
Ingredients, 1 flatbread 6 g (1 tsp) fresh yeast Pinch of sugar 300 g (2 cups) wheat flour (Tipo 00 or type 550) 150 g (5 oz) floury potato, cooked and mashed Sea salt and sea salt flakes 2 cherry tomatoes, or more if desired 4 black olives, or more if desired Herbs, e.g. sage leaves, sprigs of rosemary, dried oregano, red peppercorns Some semolina or similar dusting flour for working the dough
Preparation Cook the floury potatoes in salted water until tender, allow to steam slightly in a closed pot. Peel and mash. Dissolve the yeast with sugar in 200 ml (1 cup) of lukewarm water. Mix the flour with 10 g (2 tsp) of sea salt. Add the potatoes, 20 ml (4 tsp) of olive oil and the dissolved yeast and knead with the hands only until everything is mixed together and a dough forms. Form the dough into a ball and place in a bowl. Cover and leave to rise for 5 hours in a warm draught-free place. Sprinkle some semolina on baking paper. Carefully drop the dough onto the paper, drizzle with a little olive
242 — Recipes – Pane – Bread
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
oil and spread with the fingers into a rectangular shape. Lightly press the olives and tomatoes into the dough. Sprinkle over some sea salt flakes and let the dough rest for 30 minutes away from any draughts. Preheat the oven and the oven tray to 220˚ C (425˚ F) Place the focaccia with the baking paper on the hot oven tray and bake for about 40 minutes in the middle of the oven until golden brown. Remove from the oven, drizzle immediately with a little olive oil and serve.
Recipes – Pane – Bread — 243
Insalata di lenticchie con nocciole, miele, rucola e uovo in camicia Lentil Salad with Hazelnuts, Honey, Arugula and Poached Egg Serves: 4 people Preparation time: 45 minutes Recommended olive oil: mild to robust intensity Variations: mild to medium intensity Dominating aroma: vine tomatoes or green almond Tonda Iblea, Gentile di Chieti Medium intensity Dominating aroma: grassy, herbaceous notes Bosana, Carolea, Moraiolo
Ingredients 320 g (11 oz) mountain lentils 1 garlic clove, peeled 1 bay leaf 1 sprig thyme 750–800 ml (3¼ cups) vegetable stock 100 g (3½ oz) carrots, diced 50 g (1¾ oz) hazelnuts, chopped ½ tsp cinnamon 2–3 Tbsp honey 4 very fresh eggs Dash of vinegar 3 handfuls arugula leaves Fine sea salt Black pepper, freshly ground
Preparation Rinse the lentils in a colander and cook with the garlic, bay leaf and thyme sprig in the vegetable stock. After about 15– 20 minutes the lentils should be firm (al dente) and all of the stock should have been absorbed. Remove the bay leaf, the garlic clove and the herbs. Put the lentils with the cinnamon, honey, finely diced carrots and about 80–100 ml (⅓–½ cup) of olive oil in a bowl and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Lightly roast the hazelnuts in a pan without oil and add the lentils. Arrange the arugula on four plates, season lightly with salt and pepper and top it off with the lentil salad.
254 — Recipes – Legumi – Legumes
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
For the poached eggs, heat a pot of water, add a dash of vinegar and bring to the boil. Using a wooden spoon, stir the water in a circular direction, creating a vortex in the centre. Prepare each egg separately. To do this, break the egg into a small cup and pour it into the middle of the vortex. After about 3–4 minutes, lift the egg out with a ladle, allow to drain briefly. Place on the lentil salad. Lightly season the eggs with salt and pepper, drizzle with olive oil and serve the salad immediately.
Recipes – Legumi – Legumes — 255
Insalata di lenticchie con nocciole, miele, rucola e uovo in camicia Lentil Salad with Hazelnuts, Honey, Arugula and Poached Egg Serves: 4 people Preparation time: 45 minutes Recommended olive oil: mild to robust intensity Variations: mild to medium intensity Dominating aroma: vine tomatoes or green almond Tonda Iblea, Gentile di Chieti Medium intensity Dominating aroma: grassy, herbaceous notes Bosana, Carolea, Moraiolo
Ingredients 320 g (11 oz) mountain lentils 1 garlic clove, peeled 1 bay leaf 1 sprig thyme 750–800 ml (3¼ cups) vegetable stock 100 g (3½ oz) carrots, diced 50 g (1¾ oz) hazelnuts, chopped ½ tsp cinnamon 2–3 Tbsp honey 4 very fresh eggs Dash of vinegar 3 handfuls arugula leaves Fine sea salt Black pepper, freshly ground
Preparation Rinse the lentils in a colander and cook with the garlic, bay leaf and thyme sprig in the vegetable stock. After about 15– 20 minutes the lentils should be firm (al dente) and all of the stock should have been absorbed. Remove the bay leaf, the garlic clove and the herbs. Put the lentils with the cinnamon, honey, finely diced carrots and about 80–100 ml (⅓–½ cup) of olive oil in a bowl and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Lightly roast the hazelnuts in a pan without oil and add the lentils. Arrange the arugula on four plates, season lightly with salt and pepper and top it off with the lentil salad.
254 — Recipes – Legumi – Legumes
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
For the poached eggs, heat a pot of water, add a dash of vinegar and bring to the boil. Using a wooden spoon, stir the water in a circular direction, creating a vortex in the centre. Prepare each egg separately. To do this, break the egg into a small cup and pour it into the middle of the vortex. After about 3–4 minutes, lift the egg out with a ladle, allow to drain briefly. Place on the lentil salad. Lightly season the eggs with salt and pepper, drizzle with olive oil and serve the salad immediately.
Recipes – Legumi – Legumes — 255
Vellutata di pomodori e peperoni arrosto Roasted, Creamy Tomato and Red Bell Pepper Cream Soup
Ingredients
Serves: 6 people Preparation time: 1½ hours Recommended olive oil: medium to robust intensity Dominating aroma: vine tomatoes, tomato leaves Olive oil varieties: Tonda Iblea, Itrana, Nocellara del Belice, Peranzana
For the thick soup: 2 kg (4½ lb) large, ripe tomatoes, halved 500 g (1 lb) red bell pepper, quartered 2 red onions, peeled and quartered 4 garlic cloves, peeled and halved 2 celery stalks, finely sliced 250 g (9 oz) carrots, grated Small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped 1 level Tbsp sugar (or honey) Organic orange zest, optional Extras: Basil leaves Thyme leaves 250–300 g (9–10½ oz) cow’s milk ricotta Sea salt Black pepper, freshly ground
Preparation Set the oven to grill and preheat to 200˚ C (400˚ F). Pour all the vegetables into a large cast-iron pot, add salt, sprinkle with the sugar, drizzle with olive oil and roast on the middle rack for 80–90 minutes. Turn the vegetables from time to time. When the vegetables are ready, mash them and then put them in a food processor. For a chunkier consistency leave this step out. However, blending the soup gives a creamier consistency and removes any fibres. Season the creamy soup with salt and pepper and some orange zest.
266 — Recipes – Verdura – Vegetables
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
Mix the ricotta with 1–2 Tbsp of olive oil. Share the cream soup amongst the plates, dollop 1 Tbsp of ricotta on top and drizzle with a little olive oil. Garnish with basil leaves and a little thyme. Variations: The Vellutata di pomodori e peperoni can also be enjoyed cold on hot summer days. Leave out the ricotta and include a few croutons roasted in olive oil as well as a splash of olive oil.
Recipes – Verdura – Vegetables — 267
Vellutata di pomodori e peperoni arrosto Roasted, Creamy Tomato and Red Bell Pepper Cream Soup
Ingredients
Serves: 6 people Preparation time: 1½ hours Recommended olive oil: medium to robust intensity Dominating aroma: vine tomatoes, tomato leaves Olive oil varieties: Tonda Iblea, Itrana, Nocellara del Belice, Peranzana
For the thick soup: 2 kg (4½ lb) large, ripe tomatoes, halved 500 g (1 lb) red bell pepper, quartered 2 red onions, peeled and quartered 4 garlic cloves, peeled and halved 2 celery stalks, finely sliced 250 g (9 oz) carrots, grated Small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped 1 level Tbsp sugar (or honey) Organic orange zest, optional Extras: Basil leaves Thyme leaves 250–300 g (9–10½ oz) cow’s milk ricotta Sea salt Black pepper, freshly ground
Preparation Set the oven to grill and preheat to 200˚ C (400˚ F). Pour all the vegetables into a large cast-iron pot, add salt, sprinkle with the sugar, drizzle with olive oil and roast on the middle rack for 80–90 minutes. Turn the vegetables from time to time. When the vegetables are ready, mash them and then put them in a food processor. For a chunkier consistency leave this step out. However, blending the soup gives a creamier consistency and removes any fibres. Season the creamy soup with salt and pepper and some orange zest.
266 — Recipes – Verdura – Vegetables
SuperOlio
SuperOlio
Mix the ricotta with 1–2 Tbsp of olive oil. Share the cream soup amongst the plates, dollop 1 Tbsp of ricotta on top and drizzle with a little olive oil. Garnish with basil leaves and a little thyme. Variations: The Vellutata di pomodori e peperoni can also be enjoyed cold on hot summer days. Leave out the ricotta and include a few croutons roasted in olive oil as well as a splash of olive oil.
Recipes – Verdura – Vegetables — 267
Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek. The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliograpic data are available in the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. 1st edition ISBN 978-3-667-11455-6 ©Delius Klasing & Co. KG, Bielefeld Concept & Text: Michaela Bogner Recipe development & Food Photography: Cettina Vicenzino Editor: Birgit Radebold / Dr. Ruthild Kropp Translation: Kaye Mueller Translation guest article by Prof. Claudio Peri: Sister Mary Frances Traynor Layout & Photos: Stefan Bogner Artwork: Michael Dorn Production: Jörn Heese Printing: Firmengruppe APPL, aprinta-druck, Wemding Printed in Germany 2019 Photos: Stefan Bogner except: P. 8/9, Tenute Librandi P. 94/95 b. P. 99, 2. row left, Michaela Bogner, at family Meneghelli, Locanda Restel de Fer, www.resteldefer.com, Riva del Garda P. 132/133 b. P. 135, 1. row middle, Michele Stallo, www.michelestallo.eu P. 145, 2. row left and middle, 3. row right, Tenute Librandi P. 170, Prof. Maurizio Servili private P. 234–296, Cettina Vicenzino P. 318, Portrait Cettina Vicenzino: Cettina Vicenzino, Portrait Stefan Bogner: Mierswa & Kluska All information and data included in this book have been compiled by the author to the best of her knowledge and checked by her and the publisher with due diligence. Nevertheless, we cannot assume any guarantee or liability for the correctness, completeness and topicality of the information provided. All rights reserved. The work mays neither be entirely nor parially reproduced, transmitted or copied – such as manually or by means of electronic and mechanical systems, including photo-copying, tape recording and data storage – without explicit permission oft he publisher. Delius Klasing Verlag Siekerwall 21 D-33602 Bielefeld Tel.: +49 (0)521/559-0 Fax: +49 (0)521-559-115 E-Mail: info@delius-klasing.de www.delius-klasing.de