Timeless Treasures
The Fascination Of Certified Pre-Owned Watches
POP CULTURE
POP CULTURE Player of many parts
Watches can be almost anything. Timepiece. Object of desire. Investment. Status symbol. Miracle of engineering. The possibilities are wellnigh infinite.
Watches also have stories to tell. This is especially true for pre-owned pieces. Just imagine everything a timepiece might have seen and experienced. Perhaps long ago it was worn on a romantic date in the park, accompanied its wearer to an important exam or witnessed a momentous event in world history from close quarters. Your imagination is set practically no limits.
Some timepieces have the honour of witnessing and making history before our very eyes. They become key elements of pop culture, worn by the rich and beautiful, talented artistes and people of power. Some assume character roles in films, are praised across all genres or are described by writers.
The focus is not, or not only, on product placement. The main character in Haruki Murakami’s novel who figures in its title Colorless Tsukuru Tazaki and His Years of Pilgrimage is given a 1960s TAG Heuer by his father. Tsukuru Tazaki is initially unimpressed by his father’s gift. Yet as the reader gradually discovers that Tsukuru Tazaki is not as colourless as he seems, the latter discovers that the heirloom is far more than a timekeeper, namely a work of craftsmanship. The watch symbolises something and becomes part of the story.
We might cite James Bond as the prototypical example of the interaction between watch and art. On the one hand, a statement is made when Her Majesty’s agent drives an Aston Martin and wears a Rolex (Connery and Moore era) or an Omega (Brosnan and Craig era). The Rolex Submariner, an integral component of the first four Bonds, projects the image of their wearer as a man of the world with a sense of the beautiful and exclusive things in life. Vice versa, such high-profile film appearances contribute to the iconic image of a watch, and to its commercial
success. When Pierce Brosnan wore a Omega Seamaster Professional 300 in the 1995 GoldenEye with special features including laser rays and a remote detonator, sales of the model increased tenfold and a new younger set of customers became enamoured with the watches of the Swiss luxury brand.
As far as films are concerned, on the right wrist, a watch can embody anything. Elegance –in the person of Marlene Dietrich, who wears a Flintridge as Shanghai Lily in the 1932 thriller Shanghai Express. Intrepidity – portrayed by Charlize Theron as the spy Lorraine with a Carl F. Bucherer Manero AutoDate in the 2017 film Atomic Blonde. Or intelligence – brilliantly acted by Anya Taylor-Joy, who wears the K model from Bulova’s American Girl series as chess genius Beth Harmon in the Netflix series Queen’s Gambit.
Watches therefore seem to have a talent for integration. They do not care a whit about genres or genders. And they outlive (film) generations. A multiple award winner, the 2013 Wolf of Wall Street, is a remake of sorts without really being one. Jordan Belfort, played by Leonardo DiCaprio, is the perfect reincarnation of Gordon Gekko (Michael Douglas) in Wall Street (1987). The leitmotif linking the two is pure Gekko: “Greed is good!” Watches play a leading role in these films too: the yellow gold Santos model by Cartier worn by Gekko/Douglas and the TAG Heuer 1000 Professional and 2000 WN5141 by Belfort/DiCaprio.
A special example of a watch starring in a film is owed to arguably the coolest of all actors, Steve McQueen. For the legendary film Le Mans about the no less legendary 24-hour race, McQueen had racing driver Jo Siffert explain the Porsche 917 to him as he was going to drive it himself in some of the scenes. To maximise the authenticity of the look, the racing driver also gave him an overall. But that was not all – when McQueen spotted the blue Heuer Monaco on Siffert’s wrist, he exclaimed: “And I need the watch, too, of course!”
However, in this chapter we want to emphasise that watches not only play a role in films, but in all areas of pop culture, directly or indirectly. The list of musicians who wear exclusive watches both in private and in public is long. It includes names like Eric Clapton and his legendary Patek Philippe 2499 (Hodinkee’s Ben Clymer once said of it: “All watches are ‘important’, but some are more important than others”) and Billie Eilish. Born in Los Angeles, like no other she personifies the musical and stylistic avant-garde. Not an eye batted when on a photo shoot with the photographer Kenneth Capello she wore an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in a leopard look that was as striking as it was unusual.
Watches also become the subject of pop music in the direct sense when they figure in song lyrics. Be it to accentuate their wearer’s financial clout, as in “Wolves” by Big Sean ft. Post Malone: “Spent a milli’ on a Mille.” Or as a metaphor to drive home to an ex that he has made a bad “swap” with his new lover, as in Shakira’s song message to footballer Gerard Piqué: “You traded a Rolex for a Casio.” Or to share their taste in watches with listeners, as in the case of Pusha T, who only accepts Breitling as a car watch in his Bentley, but not worn on his wrist: “The B in the centre of that left and right wing. The only time you’ll ever see me next to Breitling.”
Thus, the cultural history of the watch evolves with each and every further example enhancing its significance. This is also true of sportspeople who rise above their sport to become figures of contemporary culture. Someone like Michel Jordan, who is equally well-known in public as the flying basketball player “Air” Jordan, the marketer of his own shoe line, and as the protagonist in the successful documentary series The Last Dance. Jordan is a passionate watch fan whose exceptional collection ranges from Panerai to Urwerk, and includes true highlights of the watchmaking art such as the Datograph Flyback by A. Lange & Söhne.
To come full circle: every story of a watch can be special providing it is meaningful to its wearer. Yet arguably the most exciting story is that of an Omega Speedmaster Professional. Strapped to the wrist of Buzz Aldrin it was the first watch on the moon and earned a place in contemporary and pop culture history. It also proved that watches can truly be almost anything…
Leonardo DiCaprio
THE WOLF OF WALL STREET
TAG Heuer 1000 Professional
REF. 984.013B
ILLUSION AND REALITY
In films, watches are not just decorative accessories. Audiences can derive clues about a character from the watch they are wearing. A good example of this is Martin Scorsese’s The Wolf of Wall Street, which references Wall Street in many respects. The spirit of Gordon Gekko’s legendary adage “greed is good” hovers above both. Halfway through the film, Gekko’s reincarnation Jordan Belfort (Leonardo DiCaprio) wears a golden TAG Heuer 1000 Professional (see the lead-in to this chapter). Golden? Not quite. In contrast to the TAG Heuer 2000 that he wears later in the film (this double spread), it is only gold-plated. A subtle clue that in Belfort’s case, appearances can be deceptive. Incidentally, Jordan Belfort was a real person. He related his story in his memoirs published in 2007.
SCHEIN UND SEIN
Uhren in Filmen sind nicht bloß schmückendes Beiwerk. Mit einer bestimmten Uhr am Handgelenk einer Figur kann auch eine Aussage über ihren Charakter getroffen werden. Ein gutes Beispiel dafür liefert Martin Scorseses The Wolf of Wall Street, der in vielerlei Hinsicht an Wall Street anknüpft. Über beiden schwebt Gordon Gekkos legendäres Diktum „Gier ist gut“. Gekkos Wiedergänger Jordan Belfort (Leonardo DiCaprio) trägt im Mittelteil des Films eine goldene TAG Heuer 1000 Professional (siehe Aufmacherseite dieses Kapitels). Golden? Nicht ganz. Im Gegensatz zu der TAG Heuer 2000, die er später im Film trägt (diese Doppelseite), ist sie nur vergoldet. Ein zarter Hinweis darauf, dass es bei Belfort neben Sein auch viel Schein gibt. Übrigens: Jordan Belfort gab es wirklich. Seine Geschichte hat er in seinen 2007 erschienenen Memoiren festgehalten.
Material Case Steel, gold plated
Material Strap Steel, gold plated
Diameter 1.5 in.
Movement/mode Quartz Caliber ETA 964.114
Complication Date
Material Gehäuse Stahl, vergoldet
Material Band Stahl, vergoldet
Durchmesser 38 mm
Uhrwerk/Gangart Quarz Kaliber ETA 964.114
Komplikation Datumsanzeige
CRAZY STUPID LOVE Ryan Gosling
Rolex
Bubbleback REF. 3131
Material Case Yellow gold
Material Strap Leather
Diameter 1.34 in.
Movement/mode Automatic Caliber 260 Complication –
Material Gehäuse Gelbgold
Material Band Leder Durchmesser 34 mm
Uhrwerk/Gangart Automatik Kaliber 260 Komplikation –
NEW MASCULINITY
Ryan Gosling is not only one of the most popular actors, he is also the epitome of a new type of man. To put it bluntly, he is not only allowed to show that he is sensitive and has weaknesses, he also has a different approach to his outward appearance. GQ took a very close look, and tells us that Gosling alias Jacob Palmer changes his outfit 36 times in Crazy, Stupid, Love. Compared to that, the movement on his wrist is relatively consistent. Besides a Rolex Submariner, only a 1940s Rolex Bubbleback shares the limelight. The latter’s nickname is owed to its domed caseback. If you like, its shape is reminiscent of a bubble. Incidentally, in real life, Ryan Gosling has been brand ambassador of TAG Heuer since 2021.
NEUE MÄNNLICHKEIT
Ryan Gosling ist nicht nur einer der beliebtesten Schauspieler, er verkörpert auch einen neuen Typ Mann. Platt gesagt, darf der nicht nur Sensibilität und Schwächen zeigen, er hat auch ein anderes Verhältnis zu seiner äußerlichen Erscheinung. Die GQ hat ganz genau hingeschaut und lässt uns wissen, dass Gosling als Jacob Palmer in Crazy, Stupid, Love. ganze 36-mal sein Outfit ändert. Verglichen damit geht es an seinem Handgelenk relativ konstant zu. Dort findet sich neben einer Rolex Submariner nur noch eine Rolex „Bubbleback“ aus den 1940er Jahren. Ihren Spitznamen hat diese Uhr der gewölbten Rückseite des Gehäuses zu verdanken. Sie hat, wenn man so will, die Form einer Blase. Im „echten Leben“ ist Ryan Gosling übrigens seit 2021 Markenbotschafter von TAG Heuer.
Serena Williams
AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
HOTSPOT
Certain locations provide particularly fertile soil for the production of watches. The small town of Glashütte in Eastern Germany is a good example. It is home to famous brands such as A. Lange & Söhne, Nomos and Glashütte Original. A similar phenomenon can be found in the Vallée de Joux in the Swiss Jura mountains, which earned the nickname of Valley of Inventors with some of the major players in the watch industry. They include Breguet, Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars Piguet. The latter’s top model, the Royal Oak, was launched in 1972. On this double spread Serena Williams is wearing a Royal Oak Offshore, which with its rubber bracelet and rose gold case combines elegance with sportiness. Like Williams, who in the course of her unparalleled career won 23 Grand Slam tournaments.
BALLUNGSRAUM
Es gibt Orte, die einen besonders fruchtbaren Boden für die Uhrenproduktion bieten. Die Kleinstadt Glashütte in Ostdeutschland ist dafür ein Beispiel: Hier sind bekannte Marken wie A. Lange & Söhne, Nomos oder Glashütte Original angesiedelt. Ein ähnliches Phänomen lässt sich im Vallée de Joux im Schweizer Jura finden, das sich mit etlichen großen Playern der Uhrenbranche den Beinamen „Tal der Tüftler“ verdiente. Dort sind u. a. Breguet, Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre beheimatet – und Audemars Piguet. Dessen Topmodell, die Royal Oak, wurde 1972 eingeführt. Auf dieser Doppelseite sehen wir Serena Williams mit einer Royal Oak Offshore, die mit ihrem Kautschuk-Armband und dem Gehäuse aus Roségold und Keramik Eleganz mit Sportlichkeit vereint. So wie Williams, die in ihrer unvergleichlichen Karriere 23 Grand Slam-Turniere gewann.
Material Case Rose gold
Material Strap Rubber Diameter 1.46 in.
Movement/mode Quartz Caliber 2714
Complication Modified: crown on left side
Material Gehäuse Roségold
Material Band Kautschuk
Durchmesser 37 mm
Uhrwerk/Gangart Quarz Kaliber 2714
Komplikation
Modifiziert: Krone auf der linken Seite
BUY A WATCH Where can I with confidence?
There is an old saying in the watch world: “You buy the seller, not the watch.” For many of us, acquiring a watch is a long, demanding and sometimes risky process. Firstly, you have to understand your own taste and which watch you are looking for. The list of criteria can be quite long: sports/classic, stainless steel/precious metal, bracelet/strap, time only/complicated, vintage/ modern etc. Depending on your experience, knowledge of watches and your tastes, this research can take several days, weeks or months and can be done online, by visiting retailers and pre-owned boutiques or by discussing with other passionate people. If possible, it is preferable to try the watch on the wrist to make sure the magic is there and to confirm the choice. But sometimes buying a watch online might be the better or only option, e.g. for reasons of availability. In this way, customers can buy watches from literally all over the world. If you are a seasoned collector or someone just looking to acquire a beautiful timepiece, the choice can be extremely precise, for example a Rolex Daytona 6263 with a black sigma dial and Mark 1 pushers, matching bezel, bracelet and clasp with box and punched papers, or it could be much vaguer, like a vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava. This stage of the process is part of the pleasure and should be about enjoying discovering and learning about new brands and models, as well as about oneself.
Once the model has been decided on, one has to find the right opportunity. This is the second and maybe the most important reason why acquiring a pre-owned piece could be seen as difficult and perilous by many. Acquiring a collectible watch means a significant financial investment for many of us. It can require parting with other belongings or saving for months or even years to be able to purchase the timepiece. An important transaction demands a reliable partner. Someone who has the knowledge and the experience to understand your situation. That partner also needs to have access to the right pieces while
guiding you and protecting your interests before considering his own profit. Professionals usually have a deeper knowledge than their private customers. They can easily influence them and prioritise their own interests instead of providing a trustworthy service. They usually know their watches better than what an inspection at the boutique can offer to a potential purchaser. Given the required time and financial investments, added to the promised pleasure of enjoying the watch and the lack of liquidity of a “wrong” timepiece, going to the right place is crucial. Like in any business, some dealers are better than others, are more suitable for your quest or simply have a better reputation.
There are five main sources for acquiring a watch from: a retailer, a pre-owned watch dealer, an auction house, a private person or a watch fair. This also applies for the field of certified preowned (CPO) watches.
The retailer offers brand-new watches from the current collections, accompanied by their accessories and with a guarantee. It is the most “secure” way to buy a watch in perfect working condition. The priority of the retailers is to protect the reputation of their boutique and the brands they represent by offering the best possible service before, during and after the sale to their clients. The limit is the choice within the current collections of the manufacturers, though they are usually quite broad. If you are considering buying a timepiece from a retailer, it is always interesting to compare the retail versus second-hand price as the difference can be significant or insignificant. But, as mentioned before, there are limitations in terms of the availability of certain models. In other words, starting a few years ago and still these days it might be impossible to buy a new Rolex sports model for example at a retailer whereas you may have the chance to buy one at a CPO dealer.
The pre-owned watch dealer focuses on used watches, though they can also offer “new old stock”. The watches are usually offered after hav-
Uhren waren schon immer modische Accessoires. Die Ära der klassischen Damenuhr ist allerdings vorbei. Mittlerweile gilt: Anything goes – Frauen kombinieren Armbanduhren vom Sportmodell bis zur verspielten Secret Watch als Schmuckstücke für jeden Look und Anlass des Lebens. Armbanduhren sind ein Männerding. Eine Behauptung, die sich wie viele Stereotype erstaunlich hartnäckig gehalten hat. Zugegeben, die Vermarktung hochwertiger Zeitmesser hat dieses Klischee lange bedient. Dabei zeigt ein schneller Blick in die Geschichte der Armbanduhr: Mit den Frauen fing überhaupt erst alles an. Eine der ersten dokumentierten Armbanduhren fertigte AbrahamLouis Breguet Anfang des 19. Jahrhunderts für Napoleons Schwester Caroline Murat, die Königin von Neapel – eine ultraflache Repetieruhr mit Thermometer an einem Armband aus mit Goldfäden verflochtenem Haar. Erst hundert Jahre später entdeckten Männer, die bis dahin ausschließlich Taschenuhren getragen hatten, die praktischen Zeitmesser am Handgelenk für sich.
Seitdem ist viel passiert. In den 1920er Jahren entwickelten sich kleine, kunstvoll gestaltete Armbanduhren zum modischen Alltagsbegleiter vieler Frauen. Die Uhr wurde zum unverzichtbaren Bestandteil eines Outfits. Ein Accessoire, das einen Look vervollständigt, wie eine Handtasche, ein Collier oder eine Sonnenbrille. Neben der Bedeutung der Uhr als Modeobjekt wird aber ein anderer Aspekt immer wichtiger: Auch Frauen interessieren sich für das Innenleben von Armbanduhren, ihre Herkunft und Qualität, für Materialien, Farben und die vielfältigen Kombinationsmöglichkeiten mit dem eigenen Style. Die Ära des Pink it and shrink it ist vorbei, in der das Damenuhren-Segment vor allem aus verkleinerten Herrenmodellen mit Quarz-Werk und üppigem Edelsteinbesatz bestand. Für Frauen gelten Uhren mittlerweile als Schmuckstücke fürs Leben, die auch deshalb außergewöhnlich sind, weil in ihnen so viel Handwerkskunst und Leidenschaft steckt. Sichtbar wird dieser Trend unter anderem auf dem roten Teppich, wo spätestens in den 2020ern neben erlesenem Schmuck auch Armbanduhren zum Styling gehören. So sah man Schauspielerin Michelle Yeoh bei der Met Gala in
New York in einer schulterfreien grünen Robe, kombiniert mit einem aufwendigen Collier mit Diamanten und Smaragden und eine mit DiamantBaguettes besetzte Uhr von Richard Mille mit sportlichem Karbongehäuse und skelettiertem Automatikwerk. Bei der Premiere von Steven Spielbergs Verfilmung von „West Side Story“ trug Laura Dern die Heures Créatives Heure Romantique von Vacheron Constantin, eine elegante Uhr aus Weißgold mit Handaufzug, die inspiriert ist von einem Art-déco-Modell aus dem Jahr 1916. Charlize Theron, Elle Fanning und Rihanna sieht man regelmäßig mit Modellen von Chopard auf dem roten Teppich, wo die Schweizer Uhren- und Schmuckmarke schon vor vielen Jahren die Haute Joaillerie etabliert hat.
Dabei ist eine Armbanduhr nicht nur für Celebrities bei Weitem mehr als nur ein modisches Accessoire. Mit ihr drückt man eine Haltung und einen Lifestyle aus. Dazu verleiht sie ihrer Besitzerin reichlich Prestige. Wie das vorherige Kapitel zeigt, geht es ja nicht allein darum, sich eine Uhr leisten zu können. Für viele gilt: Man muss sie angesichts der immer weiter steigenden Nachfrage erst einmal bekommen.
Rihanna ist eine der Trendsetterinnen, die sich auch im Alltag mit hochwertigen Armbanduhren zeigen. Die Popsängerin, Beauty- und Modeunternehmerin besitzt eine ansehnliche Sammlung exklusiver Modelle, die sie mit unterschiedlichsten Outfits kombiniert. Zum auffälligen total look von Gucci trägt sie einen Flyback-Chronographen aus der ikonischen Nautilus-Kollektion von Patek Philippe in Roségold. Eine Rolex DayDate in klassischem Gelbgold mit champagnerfarbenem Zifferblatt kombiniert sie sportlich: mit Jeans, Jeansjacke und Sneakers. Ein weiteres DayDate-Modell in rötlichem Everose-Gold trägt sie mit viel Diamantschmuck und einem weißen Sportblouson zum Basketballspiel.
Auch für Victoria Beckham gehören exklusive Uhren zu ihrem Image als erfolgreiche Businessfrau, die Power-Looks für ihresgleichen entwirft. Früher sammelte sie Birkin Bags in allen Farben des Regenbogens; seit das ehemalige Spice Girl als Modeunternehmerin erwachsen geworden ist, genügen ihr eine roségoldene Rolex
Haute couture and haute horlogerie: outfit and bag by Louis Vuitton, timepiece by Richard Mille with a ceramic case and skeletonised dial – a bold statement.
High Fashion und Haute Horlogerie: Outfit und Tasche von Louis Vuitton, dazu ein Modell von Richard Mille mit Keramikgehäuse und skelettiertem Zifferblatt – ein starkes Statement.
The pre-owned watch market is booming. High time, then, for this beautifully crafted coffee-table book that celebrates the passion for luxury watches: a guide to buying certified pre-owned watches, a fashion guide for finding the right timepiece for a particular outfit, a showcase of iconic “performances” of watches in movies, and a parade of famous wearers and collectors. Six authors, including a watchmaker, a watch specialist from an auction house and a fashion expert, reveal different perspectives on the subject. They make Timeless Treasures a must-read for watch aficionados and those who want to become one!
Der Handel mit gebrauchten Uhren boomt. Höchste Zeit also für dieses wunderschön gestaltete Coffee Table Book, das die Leidenschaft für Luxusuhren in all ihren Facetten feiert: ein Guide für den Kauf von Certified Pre-Owned-Uhren, ein FashionRatgeber für den richtigen Zeitmesser zum jeweiligen Outfit, eine Schau ikonischer „Auftritte“ von Uhren in Filmen und ein Defilee von berühmten Trägern und Sammlern. Sechs Autoren eröffnen unterschiedliche Blickwinkel auf das Thema, unter ihnen ein Uhrmacher, ein Uhrenspezialist eines Auktionshauses und eine Modeexpertin. Sie machen Timeless Treasures zu einem Muss für Uhrenkenner und alle, die es werden wollen!