Gourmand vol 2 (ARTALL) by ACEXIE

VOL.001 N ove m b e r 2 0 1 6

www.meishizazhi.com

NOODLES COMING FROM AFAR CRABS

IN AUTUMN

BEATY TREATMENT

FROM HOT SELECTION OF INGREDIENTS

MASTER CHEF'S LOVE

FOR THE ERA OF REPUBLICS OF CHINA

GIFTED CHEFS STRIVE FOR CREATIVE DISHES

SCAN WITH WECHAT FOR GUIDE

Home Serial Number: CN32-1379/TS International Standard Serial Number (ISSN): ISSN 1005-0345 PRICE: ï¿¡3 Postal code for distribution: 28-169

GOURMAND GOURMAND CHINESE EDITION ESTABLISHED ON JANUARY 1989 FIRST PUBLISHED IN ENGLISH ON 5TH JULY 2016

COPY RIGHT OWNER: SOHO Holdings Group Co. Ltd, Jiangsu PUBLISHER: SOHO Media Company Limited, Jiangsu. CO-ORGANIZING UNITS: Jiangsu Cuisine Association Jiangsu Nutrition Society

CONTENTS 02 NOODLES

Coming from Afar

16 CRABS

In Autumn

22 BEATY TREATMENT from Hot Selection of Ingredients

26 MASTER CHEF'S LOVE

for the Era of Republics of China

32 GIFTED CHEFS STRIVE for Creative Dishes

EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT SECRETARIAT: Liang Yue EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Min Zhou ART DIRECTOR: Chao Wang EDITOR: Xinyue Hu TRANSLATOR: Shella Chen PHOTOGRAPHER: Xiaoli Cheng, Guo Chen ART EDITOR: Naiqiang Wu, Ace Xie NEW MEDIA EDITOR: Chunhui Li HOME ISSUE UNIT: Jiangsu Bureau of Newspaper Distribution INTERNATIONAL ISSUE UNIT: ISSIN 1005-0345 HOME SERIAL NUMBER: CN32-1379/TS INTERNATIONAL STANDARD SERIAL NUMBER (ISSN): ISSN 1005-0345 ADVERTISEMENT LICENSE: 3200004970395

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Noodles Coming from Afar

NOODLES COMING FROM AFAR

Noodles in China boosts its wide varieties, and the top ten popular noodles in China includes but not limits to Lanazhou Ramen, Henan stewed noodles, Beijing noodles in soybean paste, Shanxi sliced noodles, Hangzhou Pian Er Chuan noodles, Kunshan Aozao noodles, Zhenjiang Pot Cover Noodles, Sichuan Spicy Dandan Noodles, Wuhan Hot Noodles, Jilin Yanji Cold Noodles. Those are only a tip of the iceberg when speaking of noodles varieties in China since Chinese people love noodles so much.

Noodles Coming from Afar

DELICIOUS FOOD IN QIANLONG ERA

KUNSHAN AOZAO NOODLES It is said that when emperor Qianlong finished his tour of Yunfeng Mountain in Kunshan, he took a bite of the noodles sold by the street food stall and it became famous thereafter. Kunshan Aozao noodles is known for its rich oily flavor and delicate noodles as thin as hair. The noodles is either soft nor hard, and is traditionally cooked with smoked fish. Emperor Qianlong was elated by the delicious tastes and sent his eunuch to ask for recipe. But the eunuch couldn’t understand the local dialect and told the emperor that the secret of the tasty flavor lies in the stove. Therefore, Aozao (approximates the pronunciation of stove in Chinese) noodles was remembered. Another legendary story is that Aozao (鏖糟) means unhygienic in local dialect, and it is said that Aozao noodles bars were all shabby and unhygienic, but the noodles were delicious. To prevent people conjuring up undesirable sanitary conditions of noodles bars, people replaced the name Aozao (鏖糟) with Aozao (奥灶), with the same pronunciation while the latter looks more elegant (and it means stove as well). The different legendary stories have made Aozao noodles more mysterious. Oily Aozao noodles with smoked fish and Aozao noodles with stewed

Noodles Coming from Afar

DING-DING STIR-FRIED NOODLES Ding-Ding Noodles is one of the most commonly seen noodles varieties in Xinjiang. Its toughness is crunched by the power of teeth since the noodles is hard and elastic at the same time. As its name suggests, the shape and size of Ding-Ding Noodles resemble those of beans, so do those toppings such as lamb, beef, potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, pepper, garlic, onions, cowpea and so on. The noodles is blended with toppings, cut and stirred before it is cooked and seasoned with prepared vegetables and meat. With the cooking finished in the clicking of utensils, Ding-Ding Noodles is finished and ready to be served.

Noodles Coming from Afar

EXOTIC XINJIANG NOODLES Xinjiang excavation were for the first time listed as the top ten archeological findings in the world. The excavation is neither Hetian Jade nor precious local utensils, but the noodles remains 2,400 years ago. These findings provided rich material for research and investigation, and also sufficient evidence of food culture in the area.

OIL NOODLES Oil noodles shredded with pork, oil noodles with green bean and oil noodles with shredded potatoes. These are all common varieties of oil noodles to people in Xinjiang, and many people are truly obsessed with them. Noodles in Xinjiang can be served with great varieties of other toppings, such as oil noodles mixed with shredded pork in Qitai County, noodles with smashed pork in Yili and homemade noodles in Nanjiang are all local favorites. In comparison, people are generally interested in noodles in Toksun county.

Noodles Coming from Afar

INNER MONGOLIA TASTE OF OAT FLOUR FROM THE PLAIN The so-called oat flour is actually made from one type of plant named naked oat. When the naked oat is ground into powder (which is edible), it becomes oat flour. As a low-yielding crop under the arctic alpine climate, the naked oat flour is rich in fat and fibre, yet low in starch, which marks its difference from the whole meal flour because it cannot ferment as normal flour does. Meanwhile, the naked oat flour aslo lacks tenacity and viscosity, but it is particularly absorptive, which makes it a great combination with all kinds of broth. The villagers from Wuchuan county in Inner Mongolia will manually knead the flour into shapes of rolls, noodle strips, river fishes, lumps and so on, and cook it in different types of broth, which in a way itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very similar to how buckwheat flour is done. There is not a big selection of vegetables available on the plain, but the sandy soil condition produces potatoes with extra softness and sweetness. The potatoes will go soft soon when boiled, and has a lovely sandy texture that melts on your tongue when you taste it. The most typical dishes here are potato with naked oat flour, or mutton and mushroom with naked oat flour.

Noodles Coming from Afar

ZHENJIANG

“PAN LID NOODLE” The most famous noodle from Emperor Qianlong’s time belongs to the “Pan Lid Noodle” in Zhenjiang. Story tells one time when Emperor Qianlong was tasting food on an unofficial trip passing by Zhenjiang, the cook Mrs Zhang who was an expert at cooking noodles, got so anxious that she threw a lid into the big pan to cook together with the noodles. Surprisingly, with the water boiling in the pan yet not overflowing, and the noodle right under the lid, it became very chewy and tastier because there was no gap between the water and noodle. That dish has won a great favor from Emperor Qianlong and since then, the unique cooking method of “Pan Lid Noodle” has become the best representative for Zhenjing noodle. With authentic “Pan Lid Noodle”, the noodle has to be handmade, because the machine made noodle simply cannot beat its taste. To make it a success, the flour will need to have soda in it, and most crucially, the flour is not kneaded, but “jumped” into shapes. To elaborate on the meaning of “jumping the flour”, the dough will be placed on a work top, right under one end of a long and chunky bamboo pole, the cook will sit on the other end and jump up and down on the pole, which repeatedly presses the dough into extremely thin and elastic pastry. The pastry will then be cut into either wide or thin noodle depending on the customers’ taste. Requiring both patience and energy, the jumping exercise will repeat for five or six times, taking over half an hour until the tasty noodle is done.

Noodles Coming from Afar

SICHUAN A ROMANTIC DATE WITH

POLE NOODLE

The name “pole noodle” came from a history of over a hundred years old, when pots of noodle were carried using the pole along the streets for sale. In the old days in Chengdu, the “pole noodle” could be seen among the streets and paths being cooked in a copper pan which was divided into two sections, one section with the noodle bubbling in and the other section with either chicken or pork trotter stew. It was the most popular and economical street food back then, and still quite often now one will see it being presented at banquets, and even praised as one of the ten major dishes in Chengdu. One can say that the “pole noodle” is the most representative Sichuan street food and seems a fairly easy dish to make as well, comparing to the other local cuisine cooked in Gourmet-style. However, it is nowhere near a piece of cake to cook authentic “pole noodle”. The noodle itself should be thin and narrow, the sauce is rich in flavor, when the noodles merge into the chilly oil soup, there is a great mixture of saltiness and mild spicy flavor, it’s mouth-watering just to smell it. Therefore, if a cook can produce “pole noodle” with the right taste, he/she must be a highly skilled master in cooking Sichuan cuisine as well.

Noodles Coming from Afar

Another main feature about the “pole noodle” is the serving. The noodle is served in a small bowl full of red chilly oil, topped with a layer of chopped bean sprouts. To present a bowl of noodle that has the look, the taste and the smell, there are a few notes. The key is to use the authentic bean sprout (has to be from local Sichuan), crushed garlic, diced ginger and dry chilly to bring to flavor when frying the minced meat. Last but not the least, throw in some crunchy chopped peanuts for finishing up. It’s almost impossible for any foodie to resist such temptation.

Noodles Coming from Afar

TAIWAN HOMESICKNESS FROM A BOWL OF

BEEF NOODLE It can be said that beef noodle is representative of Taiwan street food, although it actually has nothing to do with local Taiwan dishes. In fact, it’s a symbol of people from foreign provinces who went to Taiwan after 1949. Authentic Taiwan braised beef noodle has a few elements to it: the soup colored in red with a touch of black, the meat itself tasting slightly spicy, and chewy thin noodle. It tastes too good to be real. According to the research conducted by earlier experts in Taiwan food industry Professor Lu Yaodong and a good number of other beef noodle experts, there is a historical background to the popularity of beef noodle in Taiwan, which goes back to a place called Juan village (an army courtyard) from Gangshan, southern Taiwan. At that time majority of the air force soldiers in that village were from Sichuan, which was famous for one of its dishes called “Small Bowl of Beef in Red Soup” in which the beef was usually braised and stewed in spicy thick broad-bean sauce. The Sichuan people in Juan village missed the taste of home so much that they started making their own Gangshan broad-bean sauce based on the ingredients that they knew from back home. In particular, one of the Sichuan fellows who was a big noodle fan, started selling beef noodle at the entry of Juan village using the Gangshan broad-bean sauce and the thin noodle from the south. Little did that fellow know that he would be the start of the legend of beef noodle which was to carry on for a few decades since then. “One should be looking for the original taste from the beef noodle itself, instead of making it into an overly-complicated dish, or adding many unnecessary ingredients. Simply throw in some chopped spring onions to bring out the flavor more, scoff the meat down and drink the soup like a thirsty man. Get noisy, get sweaty, that’s how one should enjoy the beef noodle! ” Remarked by the master chefs of beef noodle.

Crabs in Autumn

CRABS IN AUTUMN

Crabs in Autumn

Crabs become the most delicious in September, as the old saying goes “crabs are fattest when autumn comes”. It’s the prime season for crabs and you will not be disappointed by the delicious crab roe and tender meat. Belonging to the arthropods family, crabs are found in both fresh water and salt water. There are about 600 kinds of crabs in China, among which the hairy crabs from Yangchen lake is top of the list for its fine and tender meat, and its creamy roe.

KING OF CRABS Big Watergate Crab from Yangchen Lake The name of “Watergate Crab” comes from the way they are caught—through grates. During the crabbing season, the crabbers will build the gates made from bamboo or reed (also known as “crab grates”) in the centre of the lake or around the harbor after sunset everyday. When night falls, the lights hanging around the gates will be on and shining like stars. Crabs are attractive to light, therefore they will fight along in big groups to climb up along the gates. The crabbers usually can bring back tens of kilos of crabs in one night from one gate if they stay close to the light. This crab catching method in Wu dialect is called “Watergate crab”. The crabs from Yangchen lake are well known for its big size and strength, especially those who can climb onto the grates are bigger (about 200g to 250g each one), hence the name “Big Watergate Crab”.

Crabs in Autumn

CATCHING THE CRABS Crabbers usually spread the baby crabs among the area where the net will be in March, and throw in baits such as small fishes, snail meat and sweet corn ect. When the harvest season comes in September, the crabbers will work basically at night and at dawn. They will have a place to stay on the lake, spread the crab nets during daytime and collect the nets at night. Usually they will need to collect it twice per night, one after midnight and the other in the early morning next day. No matter how dark the lake is, it’s a guarantee that one can catch a full cage of crabs following the marks of the bamboo poles. The crabs like to be active during midnight, and when they climb along the nets towards the lake surface they are very likely to fall into the trap, which is why the crabbers collect the nets both at night and in early morning. The Crabbers usually work in a team of two with bright headlights. Working in a boat, one is in charge of steering and paddling, while the other will be collecting the nets and selecting the crabs. After one night’s effort the crabs will be sent to the crab inspector for examination, before the crabbers spread the empty net on the lake and await another night’s harvest.

Crabs in Autumn

CHOOSING THE CRABS

BOILING THE CRABS

1. Pour the crabs into a big basin without water.

The big Watergate crabs have to be boiled (the

Check the size and color, check whether they have

“za” in Wu dialect, “zhu” in Yang dialect and

strength when crawling, and whether they can turn

“zhuo” in Cantonese all mean the same –boil).

over immediately when upside down. Generally the

Boiling, not steaming, keeps the juice in the meat and

bigger size means better. Good female crabs should

gives it more elasticity. For crabs that are full of roe,

weigh over 100g each while the male should weigh

they need to put in cold water and bring to the boil, in

over 150g each.

order to avoid their struggling which will cause loss of roe as their feet will drop first during the struggle.

2. Around the four corners of the basin, pick one

Before tying the whole crab and putting it into the

crab up from the upper layer and hold its toe from the

specially mixed water to boil, make sure that the dirt

forth leg, keep it in the air and if the crab can retract

on the crabs are brushed away thoroughly, because

for 3 times that means it’s in good condition, if 1 to

the crabs especially like to feed on rotten animal

2 times that means it’s weaker, if it fails even once

remains and carry a lot of filth on their bodies.

then the crab cannot be kept for long. Recipe for the Water Mixture Before Boiling Crabs: 3. The crabs can weigh differently even when they look the similar size. Don’t buy crabs that look big

Clean water (lake water) 50 kg, ginger 1.5 kg,

yet weigh less, because these crabs will not have a

perilla 250 g, fine salt 150g and licorice 150g. Boil

good meat texture and their sex glands are lacking.

all ingredients together, then turn to low heat and

Therefore size doesn’t always equal quality.

continue boiling for 30 minutes before water is ready for use.

Tips: Dipping Sauce for Boiled Crabs

Ginger peeled and sliced to fine strips 500g, rice vinegar 1250 g, white sugar 380g, soy sauce 80g, juice squeezed from 3 fresh lemons.

Crabs in Autumn

EATING

CRABS 1. Eat the Legs

Squeeze the crap from both sides and eat the roe. If

Eating crabs is not a quick job and you always save

then white.

the best to the end. The first thing to eat are the legs which taste good but not easy to get to. You can bite off the two joints and suck the meat out.

the crab is female then the roe will be in yellow, if male

4. Eat the Crab Meat Next is to eat the meat of the main body which

2. Eat the Claws

resemble shapes of petals. It is a more sophisticated

It is easier to eat the claws as thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more meat in

one is to leave the crab remains intact so it still looks

them. One can use special crab clip to break the shell

like untouched.

and take the meat out.

3. Eat the Crab Roe

process to eat crab than snake, and the most classic

5. Drink Ginger Tea Clean water 1000g, black sugar 400g, raw ginger

This is the highlight. Open the crab shell from the

200g. Boil all together then turn heat down and

head part, get rid of its stomach, intestines, gills and

continue boiling for 5 minute. Drink it while itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still

heart which are not edible. Crab heart is located in

hot. Ginger tea is good for keeping your stomach

front of the cephalothorax, in the shape of a triangle

warm.

bladder. The crab intestines, full of mud and rotten remains, are buried partially in the gonad and the abdominal wall, looking like a black string. The

6. Get Rid of Crab Smell Using Chamomile Leaves

crab gills (also knows as pancreas) are on both sides of the cephalothorax, which very often is the

Wash fresh chamomile leaves (160g) ready to be

resting place for dirt and parasites. Centering in the

used in the basin. Wipe you hands with the leaves

cephalothorax is the heart, which is a hexagon shape.

after finish eating, which will take away the fishy smell.

Crabs in Autumn

DRUNK CRABS WITH CITRUS TOUCH

NO.1 SOUP AMONG THE SOUTH OF YANGTZE RIVER

Ingredients:

Live female crabs 5000g (about 4 crabs) in clean

Barbel fish filet and liver 200g, fresh water crab roe

water, 4 cloves, 10 peppercorns, peeled raw ginger

60g, crab meat 120g (servings of 10), 10 small lettuce

30g, spring onion 50g, crystal sugar powder 20g, fine

cores, rice wine 50g, spring onion water 5g, ginger

salt 50g, mandarin rind 4g, fine rice wine 200g, yellow

water 10g, wine with spring onion 10g, fine salt 3g,

wine 300g.

chicken stock 1.5g, pepper powder 0.5g.

Cooking Method:

1. Brush and wash the crabs till clean, put crabs in a

1. Wash fish in clean water and take away the black

strainer and leave them for half a day to allow more

and white skin, slice the meat into 2 or 3 pieces (not

water to come out. Put mandarin rind, sugar powder

necessary if the meat is not big enough), slice fish

and salt into yellow wine and heat it up to 60 degrees,

liver into two (no need for small liver), quickly dip the

then immediately take the mixture off the stove to

meat and liver in boiling water and put it in spring

cool down to room temperature, add more wine

onion wine (rice wine with finely chopped spring

afterwards.

onion) to take away the fishy water.

2. Open the crab navel and put one clove and 2

2. Heat the pan and oil with high heat, throw in spring

peppercorns on each one.

onion water, crab meat and roe, add on rice wine and

3. Smash ginger, tide spring onions into knots and

ginger water to cook through before putting in chicken

lay it at the bottom of plate before placing crabs on top. Pour the wine mix onto crabs and leave it for 72 hours. Chop crabs into pieces ready to be served. Selling Point: Rich in flavor with a sweet fragrance of wine To Note: The fresh water crabs need to be alive and healthy, and hygiene is very important during each step preparing for this dish.

stock. Once mixture is boiled and seasoned, pour in the fish meat and liver, sprinkle pepper powder just before itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ready to be served in bowls. Selling Point: Tasty soup with a golden layer on op top of the soap with fish liver floating up. To Note: The fish fillet and liver should be in same thickness. Nutrients: Rich in protein, amino acids, with high nutrition value.

Ingredients for Beauty Treatment

HOT SELECTION OF INGREDIENTS FOR

BEAUTY TREATMENT

A womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s look seems to be always the focus, and there is nothing more desirable to have the soft and smooth skin. Learn how to select the food, and eat those that are good for your body, then you are helping yourself to be more beautiful. This time we have selected a few popular ingredients that are for healthy diets, so letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work together to bring radiance onto our skin!

Ingredients for Beauty Treatment

peaches are in season, scrap the tree skin and there will be gel coming out. Collect the gel and soak it in water mixed with ashes from burnt mulberry branches before it’s dried for use. The gel has a bitter taste and it’s good in antitoxic, thirst relief, pain relief and anti-aging, it is also a main cure for stony stranguria，bloody gonorrhea and dysentery.

Black Goji Berry The black Goji berry is mainly from Qaidam basin in Qinghai where the high altitude, dry climate and zero pollution creates ideal condition for such plant. Wild black Goji berry is a comprehensive nutritious product that contains 17 amino acids, 13 trace elements and rich in calcium, magnesium, copper, zinc and iron, more than red Goji berry. Statistics shows that black Goji berry has outplaced blueberry to be the number one in its content of anthocyanin, by a few times or

Sweet Peach Tree Gel Drink with Snow Fungus

even over ten times more. The anthocyanin is good for maintaining normal cell junction, blood vessel

Ingredients: peach tree gel, pear, crystal sugar and

stability and improving micro blood vessel circulation,

snow fungus 5 grams

which facilitates the speedy recovery from abnormal skin condition. Not only that, anthocyanin is also a

Cooking:

natural shield for the skin against ultraviolet light.

1. Soak 5 grams of peach tree gel in 1000ml of clean

As the skin is composed of connective tissue, the

water over night (about 12 hours) till the gel is soft and

collagen and albuminoid that anthocyanin contains

swollen which should be expanded by 10 times of its

plays an important role in the whole skin structure.

original size. 2. Carefully get rid of any black impurities on the gel, and wash it repeatedly using clean water before breaking it into smaller pieces. 3. Soak snow fungus in clean water for 20 minutes till softened, break the fungus to smaller chunks. Peel the pear and dice it to cubes (1 cm). 4. Put the gel, snow fungus and water into the pot,

Peach Tree Gel Peach tree gel –the natural secretion from peach

use high heat to bring to the boil, then turn the heat down for the mixture to simmer for 30 minutes. Note that the soup should start to thicken up.

trees has now become a very popular product for

5. Add the pear cubes into the mixture and cook

beauty treatment, it’s also known by a beautiful name

it for 5 minutes, then pour in the crystal sugar and

“Teardrop from Peach Flowers”. The Compendium

cranberry, keep stirring while it is cooking for 3

of Materia Medica has it noted down: When the

minutes till the sugar completely dissolves and the soup is thick and sticky.

Ingredients for Beauty Treatment

Lodoicea Maldivica Lodoicea maldivica is one of the common ingredients for soup in summer season, which is good for lungs,

Sweet Lodoicea Maldivica Drink with Chinese Honeylocust Fruit

antitoxic and cough-relief. Growing in the jungle in Thailand, it’s a wild fruit plant that has male and

Soak the Chinese honeylocust fruit for 15 to 24 hours,

female varieties. Because the shape of the tree and

soak the lodoicea maldivica for 10 minutes before

its fruits are similar to the tropical plant coconut, and

using, prepare one pear sliced into pieces, put all

it’s more common to be seen along the seaside,

ingredients into the sauce pan with water just covering

people name it “Lodoicea maldivica” meaning

over the top of ingredients, stew it for half an hour and

coconut from the ocean.

finish it with adding crystal sugar. Tips: Chinese Honeylocust Fruit The Chinese honeylocust fruit, also known as snow locust, is a high-energy, high-carbohydrate, lowprotein and low-fat product, which means ladies don’t need to worry about gaining weight with this ingredient. The thicker fruit can expand to 4 to 6 times of its original size after soaking in water, which then turns into semi-transparent gel. Not only does it taste pleasantly with a gummy texture, the fruit is also very precious for its natural nutrition, which is good for our health, such as the heart, veins, liver, eyes, skin complexion etc.

Ingredients for Beauty Treatment

Interview with the Expert

Q: Any notes for when taking the peach gel

LI QUN

A: Peach gel can clean the intestines and help

Director of Nutrition Department, People’s Hospital in JiangsuProvince

and Chinese honeylocust fruit?

our bodies to clear out toxin and it’s also low in calorie which is helpful for losing weight. Not only that, because it’s purely natural, it’s also a very good choice to use when cooking rice porridge or other vegetables. But it can only be used occasionally, instead for normal

Q: The black Goji berry is called

source of nutrition. As for

as “edible makeup for skin

Chinese honeylocust fruit,

complexion”. Is it true that it has

which is rare to find in

such magic?

our area, is beneficial to A: The black Goji berry is cultivated

diabetic patients. In terms

based on the common red Goji Berry.

of nutrients, normally

The former contains higher anthocyanin

grain and minor grain

than the latter, which means its ability

are lower in carbohydrate

to resist oxidation and aging process is

compared to rice, yet higher

stronger. The Goji berry itself can be used

in micronutrients therefore it is

for food and medical purposes, therefore to

good for health.

some extent it’s right to say that the black Goji berry is good for improving skin complexion. But one should not overrate its function and assume that the black Goji berry is the key to everything.

Q: Is it sufficient enough to rely on this kind of food for our needs of nutrition?

It’s ok to have a small amount of Goji berry either as food or medicine, although some people will still

A: One needs to take in at least 25 types of nutrition

suffer from some side affects. If you are using it

a day, or up to 35 if needed. It’s not possible to find all

as ingredient for your meal then it shouldn’t be any

nutrients in one kind of ingredient, and certainly not

problems as only a tiny potion of Goji will be used for

healthy to rely on one single product as the nutrition

one dish, same as when you put some in your water.

comes from a combined effort and overdosing on one

When it’s treated as medicine, for example as part of

only can lead to the opposite result. If one’s having

treatment for the kidney or lungs etc, then the portion

the ingredient as a meal, then focus on the energy

can be slightly bigger, i.e. one can put 30 Goji berries

and nutrition that it provides, although note that some

in water to make a drink. Having said that it’s still a

ingredients are just more for decoration. For example,

case-by-case situation. If one doesn’t have the need

tea leaves are used in very small quantity in a dish,

to use it for medical purpose, then the amount should

it cannot be treated as one’s source for energy

be cut down to avoid any side affects. And even when

and nutrition. One cannot either drink too much tea

it’s used as medicine, some people’s bodies might

even though it’s good for lowering the lipid level and

react differently to others’. When it’s used for food

keeping one awake. On the other hand, the green tea

only, then it’s ok to drink one glass of Goji berry water

flavor cake, although quite popular, basically has no

a day since the quantity is not even 10g.

nutrition.

Love from Master Chef

MASTER CHEF’S L O V E

F O R

T H E

ERA OF

REPUBLIC CHINA For those who have love for the “Era of Republic China”, they all have their own ways to recall and commemorate that history. As for Youhai, he reflects that history in every single dish he makes, the collection of “Dishes for Celebrities in Republic China”.

Love from Master Chef

PIGEON COOKED IN BLACK JUICE FROM ORIENTAL BLUEBERRY PLANT Black rice is served on the eighth of April in lunar calendar (Buda’s birthday, when all gods need to celebrate). Legend says: After Pangu created the sky and the earth, the distance between both was not as far as it is today. People were able to climb all the way up to the palace in heaven through the vines. The Emperor in heaven was so annoyed at this that he ordered the god of tower to cut off the vines and raise the palace to a place beyond reach. Not even so, the Emperor also commanded the heavenly ox to spread seeds of all kinds of grass to the earth, which caused a great

famine and the grass was taking over the whole ground. The heavenly ox felt very sorry for his action. When it came to the eighth of April, all gods went to celebrate for the Buda’s birthday except for the heavenly ox, when turned back to take his plough and descended to the earth to plough the ground. Accused by the Emperor for his disregard of the law and disrespect to the Buda, the heavenly ox was cast out from heaven to the earth forever. The people didn’t think the heavenly ox was treated fairly, because his action to save them dying from hunger showed his mercy, which was exactly the best way to worship Buda. To help the ox to still show respect to Buda, the people decided to let the ox rest on the day of the eighth of April and fed him with black rice which was dyed with the black juice from Oriental Blueberry. The characters “black rice” in Chinese pronounces like “wu mi” which is very similar to the chanting words “er mi”, which was how the ox worshiped the Buda.

Love from Master Chef

CHINESE GREEN GNOCCHI The Chinese Green Gnocchi was created to commemorate a man called Dayu. Dayu spent thirteen years working on flood control, with such dedication that he would not even go back home for a break. He used the weaving method to lead water from three rivers into the ocean, thus stopped the flood from Tai lake and created the conditions for planting winter wheat. The people loved Dayu dearly and would remember his achievements by preparing a big offering every year on Tomb-Sweeping Festival (originally using ox heads and pig heads). Later on, one scholar from Suzhou suggested using the green gnocchi, which was made from glutinous rice flour and the juice from winter wheat, to commemorate the hero Dayu instead, in order to avoid waste of food.

STEAMED“XIANG FISH” WITH SHRIMP EGGS FRIED IN SPRING ONION OIL The origin of the character “Xiang” (meaning dried): it’s said that when King Helv of Wu Country sailed towards the East to conquer the minority of China, the boat with food was hit by the wind and buried under the waves. King Helv prayed to the heaven for help and the heaven responded with a golden wave of fishes rushing towards them. King Helv commanded his soldiers to collect the fishes, while his enemy didn’t gain any and failed in the battle. Returning back to Suhou city after the victorious fight, King Helv was giving rewards to his officials and thought of the fishes. One of the officials told him that the fishes have been dried so the King asked for a taste, which he greatly enjoyed. As a result, the character of “delicious” was placed above the character of

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“fish”, which then formed into the new character

with shrimp eggs which should be good for your

“Xiang” meaning dried sea fish.

appetite because of its refreshing taste. ” Wang

thought himself: “This supreme soy sauce is the best The Shangtang street in Suzhou used to be a market

of the best, topped with the tasty shrimp eggs it will

place for preserved fish and meat. Among the shops

for sure approve one’s appetite. ” So Wang tasted

there was one call “Xing Long” owned by Mr. Wang

and greatly praised his relative for the thoughts that

who sold preserved salty fish. Being a small shop

he’s put in the ingredients. Then the relative asked

owner, Mr. Wang struggled to compete with other

him: “You have been selling the same fish every

big stores and found himself losing money year after

year, no wonder your customers don’t appreciate it

year. Wang was very discouraged and quite often he

because there’s no change. Instead of going to your

went to offer incense in the fish temple and prayed

gods for help, when don’t you try put some fresh ideas

to gods for protecting his business, but things were

into your business and save it yourself? ” “Well, I

not getting better. Two years after, Wang’s fish shop

thought of your idea of cooking soy sauce with shrimp

was on the edge of closing down and he himself was

eggs, but I can’t really cook my dried fish with shrimp

worried sick and had to lay in bed. One day, one of

eggs! ” signed Wang. “Why not? If fish eggs can

his relatives paid him a visit and brought him two

make the taste of the soy sauce better, surely it will go

bottles of soy sauce cooked with shrimp eggs. He

well with the dried fish too! I am willing to help you if

told Wang: “I slow cooked this supreme soy sauce

you are on board. ” said the relative.

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Therefore, Wang and his relative discussed together about how to make the new business work. After Wang recovered from his illness, he chose the top class dried fish and slowly cooked it with ginger, sugar and spring onion oil, then brushed the fish with golden shrimp eggs. It was a perfectly combined taste and nothing like he had sold before. When the birthday of the god of dried fish arrived, Wang carefully prepared a big portion of the dried fish with shrimp eggs which were staged into the shaped of a mountain and served on a wooden plate with a big notice saying “specially cooked dried fish, an offering to the god from ‘Xing Long’ shop” on it. The lovely smell of this dish covered the smell of the burnt incense in the temple and people were drawn to the dish immediately after it’s placed on the table of worship. The next day after the worship, Wang’s shop was packed with customers who were fighting to get the dried fish, which were sold within a heartbeat. From then on, the name of “Xing Long” was spread out and the business became a great success as more and more people came for its reputation. After Wang passed away, one of his chefs was hired by snack shop “Ye Shou He” and this delicious dish started to be seen in other snack/candy shops such as “Dao Xiang Cun”, “Cai Zhi Zai” and so on, and gradually became the unique traditional food in Suzhou.

SPECIAL STEWED MEAT NOODLE FROM ZIJIN The dish is originally from the “Noodle in White Soup” in Suzhou When summer starts, a few well-known noodle shops in Suzhou will put their posters of “Noodle in White Soup now available” up. There is in fact quite a story behind this special noodle. It is said that during Qing dynasty, a couple named Mr. and Mrs. Zhang fled to Suzhou with their child to escape from the famine in Anhui province. The couple then opened a noodle shop and the best selling noodle was the braised meat noodle in thick sauce. One day, the husband went into town to buy some ingredients, but because he was helping one poor family (who had a new born baby and couldn’t afford to buy rice) he ran out of money for soy sauce. Under pressure, his wife suddenly came out with the idea of using the water from boiling the meat as the same soup for the noodle, which would be less greasy for customers in hot summer. Therefore she used the soup as the base, and put boiled meat, spring onion and shredded ginger into her noodle which turned out to be light and tasty. The next day a poster of “Noodle in White Soup” was put up in the shop, and the business was going even better as many customers were intrigued by the new idea and came to taste the noodle. Other noodle shops started to copy the idea as well.

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Gifted Chefs Strive for Creative Dishes

GIFTED CHEFS STRIVE FOR

CREATIVE DISHES The 2016 China (Jiangsu) International Food & Catering Fair, with the theme of “Good Life with Healthy Food, Upgraded Model of Consumers’ Spending” was held in Xinzhuang International Exhibition Center in Nanjing during 21st-23rd October. On the afternoon of 21st, the opening ceremony of the first China Young Chefs’ Festival 2016 witnessed success of chefs who were given special rewards: chefs Liu Wenjun and Zhu Lei from Quanjude Restaurant, chef He Yong from Hongyunlou Restaurant, and chef He Qinqin from Zhisland’s Family.

Gifted Chefs Strive for Creative Dishes

THE DRIVING FORCE AND FRESH BLOOD IN QUANJUDE Extreme patience must be found in someone who can devote himself in cooking Peking Roast Duck for over 30 years. Liu has been working for Quanjude for over 30 years, and regardless of his perfect technique in cooking roast duck, Liu continues to focus on this dish with a humbling attitude, which has given the roast duck lovers the taste that they will never forget. As a member of the Quanjude team, Liu and his team won the gold medal in the 6th National Cooking Competition. He also won the 8th place during the 2nd Beijing Chinese-Style Cooking Competition. As the driving force in the restaurant, Liu will continue to pass down his skills and knowledge to others.

Liu Wenjun Quanjude Restaurant

Although at the young age (born in 1990s), Zhu Lei has brought fresh blood into the restaurant and proven himself to be quite capable. The 7 years of working in Quanjude has witnessed his most productive period in his career. As an apprentice under Liu Wenjun, Zhu is a very fast learner and has grasped important skills as a chef. Yet there is still great room for improvement for this young man and Zhu will not stop himself from learning new skills and exploring all the tricks to cook roast duck and other dishes. It is a long journey ahead and Zhu Lei Quanjude Restaurant

Zhu is ready for it, as he always was and will be.

Gifted Chefs Strive for Creative Dishes

NEW-BORN STAR IN SICHUAN CUISINE COOKING Master in cooking Sichuan cuisine, He Yong emphasizes the importance of the cooking ingredients and cutting skills, which all work together for a more delicate looking dishes. In He’s opinion, it’s easy for the Sichuan cuisine to be accepted by the market, given the fact that Sichuan restaurants are now all over the globe and over 30,000 are found just in the U.S.! In Chengdu, the competition among restaurants is very fierce, which has pushed the chefs to keep improving themselves and be more creative in what they produce under the high-pressure environment. It’s very obvious to see how the Sichuan cuisine has been developed during the recent years, along with the increasing amount of customers. It’s believed that this cuisine will be even more popular among people, with reasonable adjustment between the traditional cooking

He Yong Hongyunlou Restaurant

and local tastes.

He Qingqing has been working as a chef since just over the age of 16. In her 10-year career life, she has served many restaurants such as Jinfengshan Hotel, Mantingfang Restaurant, Zifei Restaurant, The Empire Club, Kanqiaojiaoyuan Club and the Zhisland’s Family, in varied positions including as the chef, the supervisor and the chief chef in Sichuan-style cooking. Leveraging her rich experience in the know-how of cooking and kitchen management for 10 years, He Qingqing is determined to contribute her own share to the innovation and development of Sichuan cuisine. He Qingqing Zhisland’s Family

VOL.001 November 2016

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