MODERN APPLICATIONS FOR MAMEY

With its versatile applications in both sweet and savory dishes, this tropical fruit’s one to watch

By Robert Wemischner

Cherimoya. Sapote. Maracuja. Guanabana. Mamey. Evocative of lush, palm-fronded tropical hills, these names evoke images of a fruit lover’s paradise. Now, many of these highly-flavored fruits are making their way to ethnic markets and menus across the country with chefs incorporating them into both savory and sweet dishes as well as in cocktails and non-alcoholic beverages. Take mamey (pronounced mah-may), also known as mamey sapote , for example. With its sandpapery, russet-colored rind and deep orange-colored, unique-tasting pulp, the fruit, which is native to Central American countries, makes a perfect base for smoothies and other blended drinks, sorbets, ice creams, dressings and more. If you crossed a papaya with an avocado, you’d yield the color of the first and the texture of the second.

Each mature mamey tree, from 40-60 feet tall, with its clusters of large elliptical leaves at the ends of small branches, can boast hundreds of fruits in high season. Thought to have been first found in Panama in the early 16th century, mamey is now grown in Mexico, Central America, parts of South America, the Caribbean and Puerto Rico as well as stateside in south Florida. Somewhat reminiscent of apricot with hints of sweet potato, stone fruit, persimmon and honey, it makes a colorful splash on fruit plates and as a topping for a tart. Once peeled and devoid of its hard pit or pits, depending on the size of the fruit, it is silky and creamy in texture.

The fresh fruit, which is harvested from May to September, comes in the form of an oblong bulb that's about five to 10 inches long and five inches wide. If you can't get your hands on the fresh fruit, however, frozen purees-mostly sourced from Guatemala—are available year—round. Like the Hachiya variety of persimmon, which is incredibly tannic when eaten underripe, mamey at its best should be fully ripened so its soft and easy to mash or purée.

The key is to enhance the fruit’s delicate flavor and not overwhelm it. No need to over sweeten it, either. A jolt of lime juice can balance and brighten the fruit’s sweetness. When pureeing, it helps to add a bit of liquid such as a tropical fruit juice. The fruit puree can also be used to flavor the cream for a milk chocolate ganache, mousse, or filling for a cake.

With growing interest in placing more plant-forward items on menus, chefs might find mamey’s versatility appealing. Exotic no longer has to be off-putting. Think avocado and papaya and you’re almost there.

Robert Wemischner is a longtime instructor of professional baking at Los Angeles Trade Technical College and the author of four books including The Dessert Architect and Cooking With Tea. He also teaches a course in restaurant management and in his spare time creates crossword puzzles for major publications like the L.A. Times and the Wall Street Journal

Mamey on the Menu

Mamey batido, or Latin American shake, with milk and ice

- La Isla, Hoboken, New Jersey

Mamey grapefruit salad with watercress, compressed papaya, fresh grapefruit, heirloom tomato, pumpkin seed, puffed amaranth and mamey vinaigrette

– Mexo, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Chilled mamey soup with beets, feta and herbs

- Ariete in Coconut Grove, Florida

Spicy Mamey Hot cocktail with Cristalino Anejo tequila, Licor 43, Thai chile and lime

- The Wilder, Ft. Lauderdale, Florida

Sapote Smash cocktail with bourbon, mamey, lemon juice and Aperol

- SUGARCANE Raw Bar Grill, Miami