THE TASTE OF FREEDOM

Celebrating Juneteenth’s Culinary Traditions

By ACF Chef Jennifer Hill Booker

Juneteenth is the oldest nationally celebrated holiday marking the ending of slavery in the United States. From its Galveston, Texas, origin in 1865, the commemoration of June 19 as the African American Emancipation Day has spread across the country. Juneteenth officially became a federal holiday in 2021.

I first learned about Juneteenth and its history when I moved to Tulsa, Oklahoma, in high school. We always celebrated the day with festivities on the north side of town. For those of you not familiar with Juneteenth’s history, let me share with you a brief overview.

As stated in the U.S. National Archives, “President Abraham Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation on January 1, 1863, as the nation approached its third year of bloody civil war. The proclamation declared ‘that all persons held as slaves’ within the rebellious states ‘are, and henceforward shall be free.’”

Published reports indicate that slaveowners withheld news of the enslaved peoples’ emancipation, however, and it was more than two years after Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation that slaves in Galveston, Texas, finally received word on June 19 that they were free. For the first time, these Texas slaves were recognized as American citizens. What followed was a celebration encompassing the joy felt at being freed of their bondage. Much of this joy was shown through cooking and sharing food with family and friends. Fast forward more than 150 years, and food still plays an important part of Juneteenth celebrations. I asked several of my chef friends what Juneteenth means to them.

Chef Maurietta Amos, culinary arts instructor at Atlanta College and Career Academy, says she was unaware about Juneteenth until she was a grown woman. “Growing up as a minority in a small predominantly white Midwestern town, the Black parents in our community were very intentional in making sure all of the kids were exposed to African American history and culture year-round,” she says. “I thought I knew everything there was to know about African American history and our pioneers. I even knew about ‘Black Wall Street.’ I was very surprised to learn about Juneteenth as a grown woman. I was shocked to learn the significance of Juneteenth and how important it was to celebrate it. Juneteenth put into perspective the tenacity and faith that exists within the African American community.”

Chef Amos says that her family has become more conscious of celebrating the true meaning of family, and as a chef, food is always at the center of all of their celebrations. “Growing up, I remember one of my grandparents had chickens and roosters in the backyard — we ate a lot of chicken. What I love about chicken dishes is the versatility and the ease in which they can be prepared and take on different versions by changing up a few ingredients.

My Herb-Roasted Spatchcocked Chicken recipe is a go-to when my family gets together on Juneteenth and at other times of the year and represents how important family and food is to me.”

Chef Deborah VanTrece, founder and CEO of the VanTrece Hospitality Group, says, “Juneteenth for me is akin to a family reunion. Friends and family gather together to celebrate each other and our ancestors. I was born in Kansas City, so of course, my favorite food for Juneteenth is barbecue.

Hibiscus Lime Spritzer

Recipe by Jennifer Hill Booker

Yield: 4 drinks

Ingredients:

24 ounces hibiscus lemonade

8 ounces simple syrup

4 ounces freshly squeezed lime juice

Crushed ice

8 ounces club soda

4 lime wedges

Directions:

1. Combine the hibiscus lemonade, simple syrup and lime juice in a pitcher. Stir to combine.

2. Pour into tall glasses filled with crushed ice, top with club soda and garnish with a lime wedge.

3. Enjoy!

Smoked and glazed with red mopping sauce, and served with red drink, it is a tradition I continue to uphold.”

Chefs Kenny Gilbert and Darren Thompson would agree that food and festivities go hand-in-hand on Juneteenth. These African American chefs celebrate Juneteenth with friends, family and their favorite recipes. For Chef Gilbert, author of the recently released cookbook “Southern Cooking, Global Flavors,” that would be his dad’s ribs, his mom’s coleslaw and his grandma’s sweet potato pie. “These three people are the strongest influences in my life, and I credit their struggles for giving me the motivation to be the chef and restaurateur that I am today,” he says.

Chef Thompson, executive sous chef at Stab’s Prime Steak and Seafood in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, also believes that family is what makes Juneteenth special. His grandmother’s “Swangin’ Steaks” recipe is a family favorite that speaks to a time before slaves were freed and were forced to cook with whatever scraps they could find. “These chefs would cook dishes based on their family traditions and food memories, which makes me wonder, what foods were prepared by the new American citizens, celebrating their freedom from slavery?” he says.

Several historians and archived reports from the National Museum of African American History and Culture suggest it would have been crops like watermelon that were still in the fields when slaves were emancipated. Others say celebratory dishes like black eyed peas and greens would have been served, symbolizing good luck; or communal dishes like barbecue, gumbo or pots of beans. And you can’t talk about Juneteenth foods without talking about the color red. This crimson color has great spiritual meaning with many African tribes, whose members were brought to America and enslaved.

West African slaves brought with them the kola nut and bissap or hibiscus plant. Both the seeds from the kola plant and petals from bissap flowers were steeped in hot water to produce the red drinks kola nut tea and hibiscus tea. Both of these drinks are still enjoyed today. Red is not limited to Juneteenth drinks, but can be found in sweets like red velvet cake and in savory dishes like hot links, barbecue and hot sauces. Whether you celebrate Juneteenth with red drinks, barbecue or sweet potato pie, there is no denying the very important role Juneteenth continues to play in both our civil and culinary history.

Southern Swangin’ Steaks

Chef Darren Thompson is an African American chef and native of Orlando, Florida. He is currently the executive sous chef at Stab’s Prime Steak and Seafood in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. This Juneteenth recipe sheds light on those unfavorable cuts of meat that our ancestors were given from their masters. “The oxtail has always been a delicacy in my family’s home,” he says. “My grandmother would call them ‘swangin steaks,’ and that’s just what they are!”

Yield: Serves 9-12

Ingredients:

3 pounds beef oxtails

3 teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 cup vegetable oil

2 large yellow onions, diced

3 stalks celery, diced

2 carrots, diced

1 tomato, diced

5 cloves garlic

5 cups beef broth

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

Method:

1. Season the oxtails with salt and pepper. Drizzle the Worcestershire sauce all over the oxtails, then toss the oxtails to make sure that they are coated.

2. Dredge oxtails in flour. Shake off excess and set flour aside.

3. Heat oil in a Dutch oven or large ovenproof pot over medium-high heat. Add the oxtails and cook until browned, flipping once, about 10 minutes.

4. Remove oxtails from pot with a slotted spoon, leaving drippings in the pot. Add the onions, celery and carrots and cook until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and tomatoes and cook just until garlic is fragrant. Reduce heat to low.

5. Add remaining flour, whisking continuously to create a roux. Cook until roux is medium-golden brown.

6. Slowly add beef broth while continuously whisking. Add oxtails back to the pot, along with the thyme sprigs and bay leaf.

7. Bring liquid to a simmer and cook until meat is tender and falls off the bone, about 3 1/2 hours.

8. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place oxtails on a large platter. If gravy needs thickening, bring to high and cook until reduced by 1/3. Spoon gravy over oxtails and serve warm.

Herb-Roasted Spatchcocked Chicken with Paprika-Dusted Potatoes

Recipe by Chef Maurietta Amos

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients for the Chicken:

1 whole fryer chicken (approximately 3.5 lbs.)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped

1 teaspoon marjoram, finely chopped

2 teaspoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped, divided

1 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped

1 to 2 garlic cloves, minced (about 1 teaspoon)

1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 navel orange, thinly sliced

1 Meyer lemon, thinly sliced

1/2 cup unsalted chicken stock

Ingredients for the Paprika-Dusted Potatoes:

1 1/2 pounds assorted potatoes (red and Yukon gold), cut into large cubes with the skin on, rinsed

2 tablespoons olive oil

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 small shallot, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons minced herbs (parsley and rosemary)

Method for the Chicken:

1. Using kitchen/poultry shears, remove the back bone from the chicken by cutting alongside the bone on either side. Place the chicken on a cutting board, breast side up and press on the center breast bone to flatten.

2. Pat chicken dry on all sides. Place on a sheet pan and refrigerate, uncovered, for 30 minutes.

3. Preheat oven to 425° F (conventional) or 400° F (convection).

4. Combine oil, melted butter, rosemary, marjoram, 1/2 of the parsley, thyme, garlic, salt and pepper.

5. Remove chicken from the refrigerator and loosen skin. Gently rub the oil-herb mixture all over the chicken and under the skin where loosened. Place chicken, breast side up, on a roasting pan. Place the orange and lemon slices on top and around the chicken on the rack.

6. Roast chicken until skin is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 375° F. Pour chicken stock into pan. Cover loosely with aluminum foil and continue to roast for 30 to 35 minutes more until the juices run clear and a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part reads 160° F.

7. Remove chicken from oven and let rest at least 10 minutes before serving. Sprinkle remaining parsley over the top of each breast and serve with the paprika-dusted potatoes.

Method for the Paprika-Dusted Potatoes:

1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Line a sheet pan with foil that has been lightly sprayed with cooking spray.

2. Bring 1 gallon of salted water to a boil. Add potatoes and maintain a boil for 1 minute. Drain the potatoes into a large bowl. Toss potatoes with the olive oil and herbs. Spread into a single layer on a sheet pan.

3. Roast potatoes until tender and slightly browned, about 25 minutes, tossing a few times during the cooking process.

*Chef’s notes: The leftover drippings can be strained to create a pan gravy. If using dried herbs in place of fresh, reduce the amount called for by 1/2 the amount for each.