Chefs, Don’t Forget Your Culinary Heritage! The importance of remembering and honoring the iconic Chef Auguste Escoffier // By ACF Chef Paul Sorgule, AAC
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n 1998, I walked down the streets of Villeneuve-Loubet, pride, respect each other and carry themselves as consummate France, with great anticipation of my destination. Walking representatives of the kitchen where they worked. What they did as cooks and chefs was important and impactful. through the doors at 3 Rue Auguste Escoffier, I entered the He developed a brigade system still used in kitchens museum and previous home to the late, great Chef Auguste today. Chef Escoffier used his background Escoffier. I had been dreaming of this day as chef in the French military to develop since I first heard the story of the culinary the kitchen brigade: how his kitchens were icon from the first executive chef I worked organized, respect for the chain of command for in Buffalo, N.Y. In his office at the Statler and delineation of responsibilities and skill. Hilton Hotel, Chef had a copy of “Le Guide Although it has changed a bit, the structure Culinaire,” a book that contained 5,000 of today’s kitchen still follows the essence of recipes from Chef Escoffier. this model. “Sit down, Paul, and let me tell you about the He championed organization and great man who wrote this,” he said at the time. communication. With his kitchen brigade From that day on, I knew this visit to came the ability to organize work for ACF Chef Paul Sorgule, AAC Escoffier’s home would be part of my bucket efficiency and build strong communication list. Walking through the rooms and halls between cooks and departments. Mise en place is a way of life in where Chef Escoffier lived, I came upon his desk, one that was kitchens — much of which can be credited to his brigade design. likely used when he wrote parts of “Le Guide Culinaire” and He strove for excellence in service. Chef Escoffier and his developed the brigade system that’s still used in kitchens around front-of-the-house counterpart, César Ritz, built an environment of the globe to this day. I placed my hand on his desk and felt the mutual respect between employees and guests that led to a model electricity course through me — it was a magical moment. of service that remains the benchmark in quality operations today. Hearing all this, some will certainly nod in understanding. He introduced one of the first forms of a la carte dining. Others, however, might ask, “Why is this important to me? Why Chef Escoffier discounted the ancient style of service requiring should we care about a chef who lived and worked over a century ago?” all food to be presented simultaneously (service à la Française) In so many walks of life there are individuals who become a and introduced service by course (service à la russe). This helped symbol of something special — a point of inspiration and guide to maintain temperature and quality, reduce waste, improve those who aspire to greatness in their lives. They may be political efficiency and increase profitability, and became the precursor figures, athletes, artists, musicians, religious leaders, business to the model that defines our industry today. He also believed in visionaries or beacons of intellect, but in all cases, they provide a simplicity in cooking and presentation — something that today benchmark and direction for those who aspire to be like them. Chef we espouse by letting the ingredients speak for themselves and Escoffier is the iconic representative of greatness for professional respecting their contribution to the meal. chefs. You will likely find a copy of “Le Guide Culinaire” on many Some believe that traditions and history hold people back chef’s desks that’s as much a source of inspiration as it is a reference and discourage creativity. Some may feel that respecting for cooking. Since that day in Villeneuve-Loubet, a framed picture tradition is simply another way of resisting change. I feel quite of Chef Escoffier has held a place on my office wall in kitchens I led differently especially when it comes to the kitchen. One would and later in my home office. He is there to remind me of why I chose only need to look at other art forms to understand the role cooking as a career and to whom I should aspire as a chef. tradition plays in contemporary expression. Chef Escoffier is a So, to answer the question: Why should we care about benchmark for modern cooks and chefs — the foundation on Escoffier? Here are my thoughts on his contributions: which today’s systems, menus and concepts are built. As such, He elevated the status of chef to be a proud and noble he deserves to be respected and referenced. profession. Chef Escoffier operated his kitchen with discipline, Opposite from top: The iconic Chef Auguste Escoffier (center, in black), ACF’s but at the same time, always showed respect for those who were first president, Charles Scotto (left), and other Escoffier pupils (Photo courtesy of Robert Hendry, oldcooksbooks.com); Chefs at the second ACF convention in 1950. members of his team. He insisted they wear their uniform with
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