Embark February-March 2017 by Adirondack Daily Enterprise

Ski touring, page 4

Recommended reading, page 5

High Peaks healing, page 6

Round Mountain scramble, page 12

Your guide to Adirondack adventure

February-March 2017

Snowy Esther ■ Bushwhack to

Snowshoe racing

SNOWSHOE RACES

IN FULL FORCE

‘This is our chance, our opportunity to show the world our Adirondack hospitality.’

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PHOTO BY CHRIS KNIGHT

go to Mount Pisgah (Ski Center) where we By CHRIS KNIGHT can make snow. But I’m really confident op snowshoers from across the globe we’re going to have snow Feb. 25.” will trod Saranac Lake’s streets and hills in late February when the vilCompetitors lage hosts its first world champiThe list of registered competitors includes onship event in more than a century. athletes from as far away as India, Germany, The World Snowshoe Championships, set for Feb. 25, will feature 5- and 10-kilometer France and Spain. There are even athletes signed up from Gulmarg, a championship races on a mountain town in the Hicourse that runs from the Harmalayan Mountain region of rietstown Town Hall to Dewey Jammu and Kashmir province Mountain Recreation Center in India. Other racers will and back. There’s also a come from New York and “Shoe-Be-Doo” walk and run other Northeast states, Wisthat’s open to the public, and consin and Minnesota, and plenty of other festivities. From left, Elizabeth Trachte of Lake Placid, Diana Billingsley of Lake Clear and other snowthe Canadian provinces of “This is our chance, our opshoers track through the snow along the edge of Riverside Park in Saranac Lake, which is the Quebec and Ontario. portunity to show the world finish line for the Feb. 25 World Snowshoe Championships on Feb. 25. Stephane Ricard of France, our Adirondack hospitality,” the defending world chamvillage Mayor Clyde Rabideau pion in the 10k race, has regsaid at a kick-off event in istered. Riverside Park, which will Clyde Rabideau “We’re up to 181 regisserve as the finish line for the trants, and we’ve got over six races. “I know the people of weeks to go,” Rabideau said Saranac Lake and the surin January. “I think we’re going to make our rounding area will be out in full force cheerBrought to you by the publishers of the goal of 300, and we’re guessing between ing, helping people along and being the 350 and 400 competitors all totaled.” friendly people they are, making sure Saranac Lake has its best foot forward for all the participants and spectators.” and Successful bid Saranac Lake hasn’t hosted a world chamTHE LAKE PLACID NEWS pionship in any sport since 1909. As part of Will there be snow? Publisher: Catherine Moore Winter Carnival festivities that year, the vilThe sun was beating down and temperalage was the site of the International Amatures hovered in the low 40s as Rabideau Managing Editor: Peter Crowley teur Outdoor Skating Championships, held spoke in the park’s bandshell. What little Editor: Morgan Ryan on a frozen Lake Flower. Hometown speedsnow there was in the park was melting, and Designer: Morgan Ryan there was plenty of green grass visible. skating hero Ed Lamy won medals in several Email Justin Levine: jlevine@adirondackdailyenterprise.com Nevertheless, Rabideau and other organiz- races. ers are optimistic there will be enough snow In December 2015, the village teamed up Produced by Adirondack Publishing, for the event. If Mother Nature doesn’t do with the Saranac Lake Area Chamber of P.O. Box 318, 54 Broadway, Saranac Lake, NY 12983 it’s share, they said they’ve got backup Commerce, the Regional Office of SustainCover photo: plans. able Tourism and Paul Smith’s College to Corenne Black makes her way toward the top of Esther Mountain. “We’re now stockpiling whatever snow bid on the 2017 World Snowshoe ChampiPhoto by Spencer Morrissey we have a block away so we can truck it onships. The bid was submitted to the World Although Embark is free, some of you may want to get a subscription if you live outside the circulation area or over here, and hopefully the snow will stay Snowshoe Federation, the sport’s internajust want to guarantee yourself a copy. To have a subscription mailed to your home or business, mail a $10 check in the woods,” the mayor said. “Plan B to Embark, c/o Adirondack Daily Enterprise, P.O. Box 318, Saranac Lake, N.Y. 12983. would be, if there’s absolutely no snow, we Continued on page 11

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February-March 2017

e have been getting a fair amount of snow this winter. I’m not complaining, but the ample light, fluffy powder makes off-trail snowshoeing a bit more of a challenge (unlike last year when the snowshoes gathered more dust than snow). This hasn’t stopped us from taking on the more difficult hikes. We just realize we may not always reach the summit. Breaking trail can be very tiring as many of you may know, so on this day we were sure to get an early start. Our packs were weighed down with plenty of food and water, and we were ready to climb Esther Mountain via White Brook. Feeling good, feeling rested and feeling inspired, we scoped out the potential route on our topo map and made the early morning drive over to Wilmington to take it on. We had been eyeballing White Brook and Esther for quite some time and we were mainly waiting for a perfect forecast of blue skies accompanied by moderate temperatures. We started from the Atmospheric Science Research Center trailhead parking lot, which is the most popular route for Whiteface and Esther, especially for those working on the winter 46. We followed the trail for just a bit to the base of Marble Mountain where the trail crosses White Brook. We then used a secondary path that brought us past a small shed, and at that point we crossed the brook and hit the open woods. The forest was fairly open with mostly hardwoods, but the snow was super deep and slowed our pace dramatically. Small saplings and a bit of dead fall stood in our way, but mostly this was all covered by the base of deep snow. Once we crossed back over White Brook, we came across a well-defined game trail that was plowed down pretty well by the local deer population. Though narrow, we followed it for as long as we could, or at least until it didn’t go in the direction we needed it to. It was amazing how even the deer tracks managed to compact the snow, making it possible for us to gain a bit of floatation. I would say this lasted a good half-mile as it meandered around on the steeper mountainside, and that’s a gift worth receiving. The steeper slopes came soon, and walking on a side hill started to get old and tough on my ankles so we opted to ascend a bit to a higher shelf. Eventually, we were back at White Brook as it made its way

back up to us and we lost little to no elevation. We continued along the brook. We kept looking at the opposite side and opted to hop back across it one more time to advance through more open terrain. While along this side of the brook we could see an attractive open slope high above us to our right that was sure to gain us some stellar views and needed elevation. This side of the brook was more relentless than before, but with a break every few steps we reached the open hillside. The hard part was getting purchase with our steps in the unconsolidated snow. The views were fantastic and they kept getting better as we climbed higher along the slope to the ridge. From here, we had to push through the trees a bit to the base of what looked to be a very impressive cliff. It was remarkable, and tough to get around. We attempted the first spot we came to, but the rock was too slablike and not holding snow and ice for grip. We had trouble getting a solid bite with our snowshoes. We traversed the side of the cliff to the left and tried a couple more spots, to no avail. As Corenne advanced along the cliff, I kept trying to climb. Then I heard a bit of commotion. Come to find out she had failed multiple times to get up this one section and kept sliding back down, each time sliding farther than the last and with more frustration. I know that feeling. I scrambled up with a bit of trouble, using my longer legs and reach to my advantage. I walked along the top and helped Corenne find a better spot slightly farther down near the trees. We were now exhausted. This cliff top was constructed of a couple smaller shelves with mind-blowing views. Thankfully, these were easy enough to climb. Would we summit by dark? That was the million-dollar question we were asking ourselves as we looked up at Esther along the ridge. Up to this point it was slow going, so we had our doubts. We kept pushing on though and set a turnaround time of 3 p.m. This would give us enough time to get back out by following our tracks. We needed to make the summit by dark. We could always go out by headlamp along the trail — no big deal. The forest was starting to get very thick, with the trees covered in fresh snow. It was going to take us a good hour to go the remaining third of a mile, we roughly estimated. It ended up being closer to 90 minutes. The views were reduced past

E S T H E R P U TS UP A FI GHT

Left, Corenne Black makes her way across an open slope on the way to Esther Mountain, which is seen in the distance of the above photo.

this point, which was OK since the batteries on my camera had given up. Only the occasional outcropping gave us a bit of reward. At this point we didn’t even stop, we just pushed on. Snow falling from the trees kept us cooled to the core. We couldn’t stop for long for fear of getting a chill. We summited Esther with the

unfortunate welcome of no views. The clouds were too low to allow for any, but we didn’t hang around for long anyhow. Chilled and ravaged for real food, all we could think about was a burger, a brew and a hot shower — not all at one of course. The descent was a quick one, and we did make it back to the main trail to Whiteface before we

PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

Backcountry adventure

had to break out the headlamps for the final section back to the car. We found it fortunate that someone had summited earlier that day, probably starting after us and finished already. Fortunately for us, it was a broken trail, which made the exit a cake walk and butt slide off Marble Mountain. We realized later that this was a very gratifying way to summit Esther.

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Ski touring

FRESH LOOK AT

Neilson Snye, of Tupper Lake, looks downstream from the site of the old Marcy Dam after skiing in on the truck trail from South Meadow Lane.

PHOTOS BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE

T H E O L D DA M

By JUSTIN A. LEVINE

had only ever skied the Marcy Dam truck trail in the dark, either early in the morning or late at night on my way to conquer some High Peaks, so when my friend and fellow search and rescue volunteer Neilson suggested we go skiing before the new year, I recommended the short but rewarding trip to the site of what is now a former dam. We started out on a few inches of fresh snow, a nice treat compared to last winter. Following the old South Meadow Lane road, we made our way about a mile up the wide road and only saw one other person. Neilson and I made a right, signed in at the register and continued on our way. Two skiers and a snowshoer passed us on their way out, but as it was still lightly snowing, we mostly made fresh tracks on the easy slopes and chatted along the way. We didn’t see anyone else until we reached the dam an hour or so later. The trip into the dam is accessible for even beginner skiers. There are a couple of decent-sized hills, but nothing technical. During past trips, my friends and I were usually starting out in the dark and (usually) extreme cold. This New Year’s Eve eve trip was a nice departure from the norm, which typically involved a couple of falls, as headlamps provided limited visibility. I was excited to take in the sights of the trail that I’ve hiked in the summer, but had really only seen through the beam of a headlamp. This is a popular way to enter the High Peaks, and although we saw few people, evidence of constant use abounded, including a state Department of Environmental Conservation sign asking people to poop off-trail and bury it; a sign that gave us a chuckle. When we reached the open expanse of dam area, High Peaks Wright and Algonquin stood proudly reaching into the clouds. Well-trained chickadees begged for food, but were unsuccessful soliciting snacks from us. We stood on the side of the former dam, which was washed out during Tropical Storm Irene flooding in the fall of 2011. The DEC decided after Irene that the dam should not be rebuilt, a decision that created plenty of controversy in and of itself. The DEC is currently working on bringing back the natural order to an area that was first impounded in the 1930s, and has been rebuilt a few times since. “Fall of 2016 was the second year of a five-year phased removal of the top 8 feet of Marcy Dam. Approximately 4 feet of the original spillway height has been removed,” DEC spokesman David Winchell said in an email. “In each of the past two years, a crew from the Student Conservation Association

Marcy Dam ACTIVITY: Snowshoeing, skiing, hiking DISTANCE: 7.2 miles round trip DIFFICULTY: Easy to moderate TRAILHEAD: From Lake Placid, take state Route 73 east toward Keene. Go about 3 miles from the edge of the village and then turn right on Adirondak Loj Road. Go a little more than a mile and park at the boulders at South Meadow Lane on the left.

Adirondack Program removed a portion of the dam in the late summer when water levels were at their lowest. They removed the rock ballast inside the timber crib structure, timbers from the structure and the old splash boards to just below the water level of the ponded water to allow for continuous flow into Marcy Brook. “This will be repeated over the next two to three years until the dam has been brought down level with the upper tier of the downstream structure. The phased removal is designed to minimize the movement of sediment downstream.” Neilson and I hung out for a little while at the dam, having a snack and a drink, and snapping some pictures. As is usually the case, the trip back to the car seemed to go faster than the trip in, and as it was getting to be mid-morning, we came across another half-dozen people skiing into the area. The snow kept falling lightly as we skied out, and we came across a forest ranger friend of ours with his family doing the same trip we were wrapping up. The ski out was just as pleasant as the ski in, and as we sipped beers in Lake Placid afterward, I thought about the fact that this iconic backcountry feature would be gone completely in just a few years. But luckily for the public, the pleasant trail in and out of the dam will remain.

Well-trained chickadees begged for food, but were unsuccessful soliciting snacks from us.

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February-March 2017

Recommended reading

THE CONTROVERSIAL HISTORY OF CERRO TORRE

By JUSTIN A. LEVINE

he hum of a generator is not something most mountain climbers hear when they’re up in the high altitude required of big-mountain alpinists. But one day in 1970, an Italian climber drilled bolt after bolt into the rock face of Cerro Torre — a 10,000-plus-foot mountain in Patagonia — using a portable generator he had lugged several thousand feet into the sky. He carried this internal combustion engine all the way up there out of spite. This mountain, Cerro Torre, is not a household name like Everest or Kilimanjaro, but there is enough controversy around its steep flanks to fill a book. And that’s just what veteran climber Kelly Cordes did with “The Tower,” his history of grudges, successes and catastrophes on Cerro Torre over the last 50 years. Cordes, who recently gave a slide show during The Mountaineer’s Adirondack International Mountaineering Festival in Keene Valley, starts with an attempt on the mountain in 1959 by an experienced Italian climber. Casare Maestri came down from the mountain missing his partner and claimed to have reached the summit. For the better part of a decade, Maestri was taken at his word. But as access to the remote mountain — which sits in the border area between Argentina and Chile — improved, Maestri’s claim was called into question. Other climbers studied Maestri’s writings and soon found plenty to dispute his claim of reaching the summit. In fact, many climbers believed he barely even made it a quarter of the way. As pressure grew on Maestri, he decided to go back to climb the

The Tower AUTHOR: Kelly Cordes PAGES: 400 COPYRIGHT: 2016 PUBLISHER: Patagonia mountain again, this time in winter just to prove a point, and with a generator. Maestri used the generator to run a drill which he used to put in climbing bolts just a few feet apart high up on the mountain, forming what became infamously known as the “Compressor Route.” He left the generator hanging on the side of the mountain, and as the years stretched into decades, two schools of thought emerged regarding the bolts. Some thought they were a monstrosity, while others believed they had become part of the mountain and therefore were OK to have up there. This is just one of the controversies the mountain has seen. Cordes weaves history, climbing and interviews with the main participants in the bolt controversy into an engaging story, even for armchair moun-

Kelly Cordes

PHOTO COURTESY OF JEFF JOHNSON

taineers with no desire to risk life and limb on a nearly vertical slab of rock. Eventually, a pair of climbers from this second generation removed the bulk of the bolts, a move that was not popular among the locals and possibly threatened climbers’ lives.

Cordes has climbed Cerro Torre himself, and intertwines his personal story into the book. With his expert opinion well formed, Cordes wrote in an email to Embark that he was glad the bolts were gone. “None of us has an inalienable right to get our sorry carcasses up

something we aren’t good enough to climb by the centuries-old term ‘fair means.’ The mountains owe us nothing, and it’s a privilege to be there, and I believe we should treat them with respect. “The reasonable, understood and accepted use of bolts has allowed some of the great climbs in the world. It’s not black and white, but there is a continuum of what’s considered acceptable use. Maestri’s compressor and bolt ladders was like using an atom bomb to kill a fly. Nobody reasonable — not even Maestri’s staunchest supporters — tried to defend his installation of the ‘compressor route.’ The only real question was whether or not the bolts should have remained. “I was a fan of their removal. That said, perspective remains important. It wasn’t the biggest problem facing humanity, and nobody claimed that it was. Therefore, the reaction — certainly an over-reaction, I’d say — to the de-bolting was puzzling in a sense, and way out of proportion to the action. As with many things we see in the world, however, I think much of the anger was about things that run deeper than target topic.” The bolting controversy stretched out across two generations and several decades, during which there were unfortunate deaths and amazing feats of bigwall climbing, each of which Cordes details vividly. Cordes’s narrative can be a little dry at times, and occasionally gets bogged down in details of climbing technique and history that not everyone will appreciate, but the book moves forward with a quick pace and compelling story. The Tower is a perfect read for bigwall climbers and bystanders alike.

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February-March 2017

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On the trail

PHOTO BY ANTONIO OLIVERO

HEALING IN THE HIGH PEAKS

From left, Riley Robinson, Christopher Willett, his son Andrew, his son’s friend Jack, Adirondack Wilderness Trip Leader Tyler Socash and Rob Van Avery chat atop the summit of Wright Peak.

hat about the person behind the number? That’s the thought that crossed my mind while driving away from the Adirondak Loj on Jan. 7 after summiting Wright Peak with six new friends, people who until six hours before were complete strangers. Rob Van Avery was one of those strangers. Just a year before, his life had changed thanks to a couple of LL Bean Christmas gift cards, plastic money he initially didn’t think much of. The 39-year-old purchased an Osprey backpack with the gift. It’s a big bag that sat for nine months inside a closet at his home in Fonda, a town off Interstate 90 just south of the Adirondacks. On Oct. 15 of last year, Van Avery was invited to hike his first High Peak, the 4,627-foot Giant Mountain. A native of Fultonville, Van Avery was innocent to the High Peaks Wilderness. He previously had only hiked just twice before, and his first trip to Lake Placid was a scant eight months prior. During that February trip, while driving home through Keene and glancing at the cars parked along state Route 73, Van Avery passed judgment on the bundled-up people digging microspikes and snowshoes into the steep trails of the icy mountains. He couldn’t comprehend the “why” behind winter hiking. “I said,” Van Avery recalled, “‘those people are absolutely nuts.’” Nearly one year later, and exactly three months after his first hike up Giant Mountain, Van Avery invited a friend on his most recent hike in the High Peaks. Their summiting of Nye and Street mountains completed his 12th and

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ROB VAN AVERY

By ANTONIO OLIVERO

Rob Van Avery, left, and Tyler Socash fist-bump on Wright Peak, while Antonio Olivero poses next to a cairn.

13th High Peaks in 93 days. ¯¯¯ What about the inspiration behind the number? I met Rob Van Avery on Jan. 7. We were a part of a group of seven people who signed up to hike the 4,580-foot Wright Peak that Saturday as part of the Adirondack

Mountain Club (ADK’s)’s annual Winterfest. The group convened outside the High Peaks Information Center at 8:45 a.m., with biting cold and coffee expediting conversation between complete strangers. Along with Van Avery and me there was Christopher Willett, a fa-

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ther from the Buffalo area who has hiked 43 High Peaks. Willett brought his son Andrew and his son’s friend Jack, an Oakland Raiders jersey-sporting NFL fan who was about to hike his first High Peak. We were also joined by Riley Robinson, a 29-year-old who recently moved to Saratoga Springs and a friend of our guide for the day, Tyler Socash. For Socash, guiding the group up Wright Peak was a neat experience as he is typically tasked with guiding “trail-less” mountains as an ADK wilderness trip leader. To boot, the 30-year-old native of Old Forge was called in at the last minute for Winterfest after a different guide had fallen ill. Socash’s hiking resume is dense and detailed: He’s a multi-time summer and winter 46er and a through-hiker of the 2,184-mile Appalachian Trail, the 2,654-mile Pacific Crest Trail and the 1,850mile Te Araroa trail in New Zealand. On this subzero Saturday, So-

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cash not only would shepherd our motley crew of strangers through a deceptively treacherous 7-mile day, but he would help us to befriend one another as well — which was, to me, one of the more striking elements of our hike. Of the seven people who hiked that day, each of us had a similar narrative as to why they were there: to escape. For Willett, it was an opportunity to set aside the stresses of everyday life and let his mind relax and wander while sharing in the experience with his son. For Robinson, it was to remind himself that a place as remote as the High Peaks exists this close to him. And for Van Avery, the father who didn’t comprehend the allure of winter hiking less than a year prior, it was about fueling himself with something healthy to stay sober. That’s the power of the AdironContinued on next page

February-March 2017

On the trail dack wilderness, especially in the winter: It’s about the ability to learn the life stories of strangers after meeting them just six hours prior. It’s about the potential to capture personally dignifying moments at the end of your camera’s lens while smiling through frozen-stiff beards. It’s about, quite simply, the power of finding sympathy and kinship when you’re out there to escape. Van Avery was the most candid about why he was there at that moment Saturday morning, willing to drive the 143 dark miles to sink his MSR snowshoes into the frosted trails yet again. To many Adirondackers, Van Avery is one of “those” hikers. He’s a “weekend warrior” from outside the region who recently fell in love with the High Peaks, binge-hiking the 46 highest mountains in the Adirondacks as fast as he can. He and others like him accelerate the degradation of trails one insolent step at a time. He checks all the boxes: He’s hiked double-digit mountains in mere weeks. He posts dozens of his photos on the Aspiring Adirondack 46er Facebook page after returning home. He likes and comments on many hiking-related Facebook posts during the week between his Adirondack jaunts. To many longtime Adirondackers, he’s just a number, a new digit among the more than 10,000 46ers and the more than 10,000 members of the Aspiring Adirondack 46ers Facebook page. He is the new wave trampling all over the High Peaks and exploiting their natural beauty one social media share at a time. ¯¯¯ But I ask these critics, what about the journey behind the number? What about the journey behind Rob Van Avery? You’d be hard-pressed to find a single person above treeline who doesn’t have a spirited reason to be there. And Van Avery’s cause may have been the greatest of our group of seven people who shared snowshoes and spikes, shared their bodies to ensure safety while scaling a dangerously slick Wright Peak. While hiking alongside him, he shared his story of how he quit drinking and smoking 11 years ago. Like anyone who has worked to overcome a demon, Van Avery knew the exact date he made that decision: Oct. 19.

PHOTO BY ANTONIO OLIVERO

Continued from previous page

He caved in late September during a time when he was coping with evolving relationships and sending his son off to college. His setback was tough to swallow, and the changes he was staring at as a single parent humbled him to his core. So he grabbed that Osprey backpack out of his closet and bought hiking boots. “The silence, the views, the fresh, crisp air and the alone time with countless steps had me realizing, ‘This is a new start, a journey to be sober and happy,’” Van Avery said. With his children growing older, Van Avery said he’s committed to “finding the Rob I once knew. “Other than just ‘Dad,’” Van Avery said. “The Rob who loved everything and everyone. This is a start to a new beginning … and I’m thankful for the

Adirondacks for being an amazing place to kick off this journey of what lies ahead.” ¯¯¯ What about the soul behind the number? Van Avery is all in on the Adirondacks. Since summiting Wright Peak, he returned the two weekends since to hike Algonquin Peak and Street and Nye mountains. He has his sights set on living in Lake Placid within the next two years. And, he says, the Adirondacks have inspired him to take a few college courses in environmental conservation. There you have it: Rob Van Avery — the story behind the number. “It’s never too late to start over,” he said. “And if you’re reading this,” he added, “please get out and live!”

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February-March 2017

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On the trail

Mount Arab

ACTIVITY: Hiking/snowshoeing DISTANCE: Mount Arab, 2 miles round trip; Coney Mountain, 2.2 miles RT; Goodman Mountain, 3.4 miles RT DIFFICULTY: Beginner to easy LOCATION: There are three mountains that make up the Tupper Triad. Goodman and Coney mountains are on state Route 30, about 7 miles south of Tupper Lake. Mount Arab is on the west side of Tupper Lake, off of state Route 3 heading toward Cranberry Lake.

By JUSTIN A. LEVINE

e had snowshoes in the car, but after pulling into the parking lot of the Goodman Mountain trailhead outside of Tupper Lake, it looked like we wouldn’t need them. And we didn’t, not for the entire day. My friend and colleague, Tony, and I had decided to use some vacation time to head to Tupper Lake and do the winter Tupper Triad, a series of three mountains around the village that makes for an easy day with highly rewarding views, just before the new year. We met in Saranac Lake and got an early start since neither of us had done the Triad during the winter. I had completed the Triad over the summer and knew it wasn’t much of a killer, but in winter, everything could be much, much harder. Luckily for us, the small mountains proved to be well traveled, and our microspikes and a little dedication were all we needed to reach the summits. We decided to start with the longest of the three hikes, Goodman Mountain. Goodman is a relatively new trail, approved and constructed in 2014. The trail starts off up a steady, gentle grade that follows an old road. In the summer, there are bits of asphalt peaking through the accumulated forest detritus, but this is no walk along a sidewalk. The mountain used to be called Litchfield Mountain, like the nearby Litchfield Park. But in 2002, the mountain was renamed after Andrew Goodman, a civil rights activist who was murdered in 1964. The Goodman family has long ties to Tupper Lake, having purchased a summer home there in late 1930s. Andrew was raised in New York City, but his family were frequent visitors to the Tri-Lakes area. Goodman was on a mission in Mississippi to help black people register to vote. He and two others, James Chaney and Michael Schwerner, had gone to the south during the height of the civil rights movement. They disappeared on their first day there. The mens’ station wagon, which they had been traveling in, was found burned-out on the side of a road in July of that year. A few weeks later, the three men’s bodies were found buried near a dam southwest of Philadelphia, Mississippi. The FBI investigated the murders, and accused 21 men of being involved. Seven were convicted and served sentences of less than six years. In 2005, another man, Edgar Ray Killen, was sentenced to three consecutive 20-year terms for his role in the murders. Killen’s convictions were the only action taken by the state of Mississippi. In August of 2014, the state Department of Environmental Conservation dedicated the new trail up the mountain. There is a

Winter Triad tryst large parking area, complete with a kiosk that highlights Goodman’s saga. Once we had reached the partially open summit of Goodman, Tony and I took in the view of our next target: Coney Mountain. Coney also sports a new parking area, albeit much smaller than the Goodman parking area. However, in the summer, there are frequently cars parked along both shoulders of state Route 30, indicating the popularity of the hike. When I climbed Goodman over the summer, the summit was over-run with ripe blueberries and kids with gallon baggies running around collecting the sweet fruit. Although it was a busy summit, the sound of laughter emanating from the kids was far from unpleasant. This winter, Tony and I had the summit to ourselves, although the trail was just as broken out as Goodman’s had been and our snowshoes were again left in the car. Coney offers a wide-open view of the surrounding area, and my GPS told me there was a geocache near the summit. The wind had picked up and snow was blowing as we let our beards get iced up. The clouds had descended a little bit while we were hiking, so we got no real views, although on a clear day one can see the village of Tupper Lake and the surrounding lakes and mountains easily.

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We quickly made our way down the short mountain and back to the car. We then drove back through Tupper Lake, heading toward Cranberry Lake before turning off the main road toward our final stop: Mount Arab. Although Mount Arab is the shortest of the three hikes, it is also the steepest and in many ways the most rewarding. The Arab trail was wet during the summer, and we found more of the same this winter, despite the falling snow and blowing wind. Tony and I climbed again just using microspikes. All three of these trails are quite popular and even with the lack of sign-ins at the trailhead, it was obvious that we were not the first to hike the peak this particular day. We set out and within a half-hour, the old ranger cabin and fire tower were peeking out of the flat gray light. Although the Goodman and Coney trails sport new parking areas, Arab is the most “developed” of the three peaks. The summit sports a wooden viewing bench at the top of a rock outcrop, as well as the cabin and tower. The fire tower was built in 1918 by the state as a fire watcher’s post. The foundation of the original observer’s cabin is still there, but was buried under snow. The treed summit still offers plenty of views, and climbing the

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Coney Mountain

PHOTOS BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE

Tupper Triad

restored tower offers a 360-degree lookout. The current cabin was built in the late 1940s, before the state switched to using airplanes to keep an eye on fire danger. A non-profit group called Friends of Mount Arab formed to restore the tower and provide historical displays at the top of the mountain. In the summer, the cabin is usually staffed and someone is on hand to offer interpretation and talk to the public. Tony and I climbed the ice-covered stairs to the cabin of the tower, where the strong winds were making it snow inside. The windows were iced over limiting our views, but from the stairs just below the cabin, the sights were limited only by the low-hanging clouds. We sat on the covered porch of the cabin and had a quick snack before beginning our decent. We made our way back into Tupper Lake in time for lunch at Raquette River Brewing and congratulated ourselves on successfully completing all three climbs in one day. The Tupper Triad, even in winter, is a family-friendly outing that is within reach of even the most novice of hikers. Including breaks and driving between mountains, Tony and I completed the Triad in under five hours. There is no requirement to complete it all one day either, so you can still earn the patch if you split the hikes up over a few days. For more information on the Triad, including the registration form (for $5 you can get a patch and sticker), visit www.tupperlake.com/recreation/tupper-lake-triad.

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Buyer’s Guide

THE RIGHT PURCHASE FOR BETTER PURCHASE

Yaktrax Run

Hillsound Trail Crampons Black Diamond Contact

Microspikes

By JUSTIN A. LEVINE

hether you want to walk on a slippery sidewalk, tread out to your ice shanty, go for a run in February or climb a High Peak, there are no shortage of options when it comes to gaining traction on slick surfaces. There are a few brand names that most of you are probably aware of — like Yaktrax and Microspikes — but the diversity of traction devices for your feet has widened considerably in the past decade or so. Although there is a wide range of devices, it pays to choose ones that will suit your needs. If you’re just going to the mailbox or walking in parking lots, you probably don’t need 12-point crampons, and if you’re climbing Mount Marcy, basic Yaktrax aren’t going to cut it. So, where to start? You will likely be best served by visiting a store like EMS in Lake Placid or The Mountaineer in Keene Valley, both of which stock a selection of traction device for almost any use, from running to ice climbing. There are local gear stores around the Adirondacks that will likely have a selection to choose from since, you know, it’s a long winter in these parts. One of the most basic and earliest mass-marketed devices was Yaktrax, with a rubber booty that slips over the outside of pretty much any shoe and has metal coiled along the sole to help you gain purchase on the ice. Yaktrax are great for not-so-demanding excursions, but are unsuitable for extended hikes of more than a mile or two. Kahtoola, the company behind the famous microspikes, has become synonymous with traction among hikers. Microspikes, whether they’re brand name or not, are practically required equipment for spring, fall and winter hiking. Much like the Yaktrax, microspikes have a rubber part that slips over your boots. The difference is that microspikes are like a crampon-lite, with small chains holding a series of metal spikes in place. Microspikes offer fantastic traction in a wide variety of circumstances, and because the spikes are small, they are comfortable to walk in for extended periods of time. In between microspikes and Yaktrax is another Kahtoola product called Nanospikes. Again, the Nanospikes are probably not suit-

February-March 2017

Stabil Walk able for long hikes, but the small carbide tips protruding from the sole offer exceptional traction on very icy surfaces – like walking out to the ice shanty or taking a stroll around Mirror Lake. Yaktrax has also come out with a product specifically for running, called the Yaktrax Run. The Run offers carbide tips under the ball of the foot and the metal coils under the heel. While obviously designed for runners, this could be an all-around good traction device for areas in the forecountry, but are unlikely to be of much use on any sort of serious slope. Stepping up from the Microspikes are actual crampons. Although crampons are commonly known to be used for ice climbing, many people like to carry the heavier duty crampons on hikes in the High Peaks, on particularly steep trails and when the ice is expected to be thick and hard. There are plenty of options for ice climbing crampons out there, but they probably shouldn’t be used for simple hikes. Many also require specialized boots to be attached to. Luckily for us nonclimbers, several companies have developed trail crampons. While not intended for actual ice climbing, the 10- or 12-point crampons can literally be a lifesaver if conditions get bad enough. Trail crampons have much larger spikes than the microspikes, often three-quarters of an inch to an inch long. The longer, thicker spikes offer better purchase on steep or hard ice, and most models have toe spikes that allow you to dig in while going up steep sections. In addition to the added traction, trail crampons can be used with virtually any boot. While ice climbing crampons require specialized boots, products like the Black Diamond Contact have a strap system that will accommodate anything from a sneaker to a steel-toed work boot. If you shop for traction online, it can easily become overwhelming with the number of options available, so your first stop should be to a store that has knowledgeable folks who can point you in the right direction. Once you’ve figured out where and how vigorously you’ll be using your traction the most, you can narrow it down to a couple of products that will suit your needs, and hopefully your budget.

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PHOTOS BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE

Nanospikes

Microspikes oﬀer fantastic traction in a wide variety of circumstances, and because the spikes are small, they are comfortable to walk in for extended periods of time.

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Family-friendly trips near Saranac Lake

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

Moose Pond

PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

5 Bloomingdale Bog

Dewey Mountain

McKenzie Pond

Moose Pond

Mount Baker

ACTIVITY: Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing DIFFICULTY: Easy DISTANCE: Up to 8 miles, round trip PERKS: This is a stellar location for scenery and is an ideal spot for first time crosscountry skiers. The trail follows an old railroad grade, making it perfect for the entire family. The trail goes from state Route 86 all the way through to Bloomingdale, 4 miles away. Travelers have the option to turn around whenever they wish and still see some excellent portions of the massive bog. This is also a great trail for feeding a gray jay out of your hand. OBSTACLES: The access point is not marked oﬀ Route 86, so having a recreational map of the area is extremely helpful. QUOTE: “Bloomingdale Bog has two entrances from which you can start — from the Bloomingdale side and the Saranac Lake side. You can do a two-car hike through as well, if you prefer or have that option. There is very little elevation change on this hike, making it ideal for the entire family. Bloomingdale Bog is one of the largest bogs in the Adirondack Park and home to many species of wild birds; not to mention the possibility of a moose.” — www.lakeplacid.com DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of Main Street and state Route 3 in Saranac Lake, follow Main Street around to Broadway. Continue onto Broadway to the red light and continue straight onto Route 86. Continue on Route 86 for 2.7 miles to a dirt road on the right with a shadow figure on a post. Turn in here to the yellow boundary gate.

ACTIVITY: Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing DIFFICULTY: Easy to moderate DISTANCE: Varies depending on your preference PERKS: This is a great location for beginner snowshoers as well as cross-country skiing. With many trails to choose from, you may have to come back for more. The recreation center has plenty oﬀer, with programs, rentals, activities and more. Go to www.deweymountain.com for more details. OBSTACLES: Grab a map of the trails to be sure that if you are snowshoeing, you are in fact on a snowshoe trail. A trail map will also assure you that the trail you are skiing on is not beyond your skill level. QUOTE: “The upper trails let you indulge your ‘wild side.’ They feature ungroomed backcountry trails in the beautiful forest. They extend to the very top of the mountain, for 440 feet of vertical drop. There’s 4 kilometers of snowshoe trail. It winds to the top of Dewey for an extravagant view of the Saranac Chain of Lakes, then descends along the west side of the mountain. This trail is laid out for easy climbing, using classic inclined planes at the tougher parts, like the east side of the mountain.” — www.saranaclake.com DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of Main Street and state Route 3 in Saranac Lake, follow Route 3 toward Tupper Lake. Continue for 1.25 miles to the Dewey Mountain Recreation Center on the left.

ACTIVITY: Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing DIFFICULTY: Easy to moderate DISTANCE: 3.5 miles, round-trip PERKS: Snowshoeing or skiing this trail will oﬀer an easy venture with a few hills to give you a bit of a rush if you are on skis or a bit of a workout if you are trekking them. OBSTACLES: A couple of the hills are a bit steep and fast. If this is your first time on skis they can be diﬃcult, especially in spots where trees line the trail. QUOTE: “McKenzie Pond is nestled in between Baker Mountain to the west and Little McKenzie Mountain to the north. McKenzie Pond is also part of the western border of the 36,200 acre McKenzie Mountain Wilderness Area which brings to light some of the most pristine areas of the park.” — www.lakeplacid.com DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of Main Street and state Route 3 in Saranac Lake, follow Route 86 toward Lake Placid. Go straight through the intersection before NBT Bank and continue onto Brandy Brook Avenue. Take a right onto Pine Street after crossing the railroad tracks. This will turn into McKenzie Pond Road. Stay on this road for 1.25 miles to the trailhead for the Jackrabbit Trail on the left.

ACTIVITY: Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing DIFFICULTY: Easy DISTANCE: 3.0 miles, round-trip PERKS: This is a perfect trail for first time cross-county skiers and snowshoeing for all of your family. Ending at a gorgeous backcountry pond, it’s a perfect place to enjoy hot chocolate and have a winter picnic. OBSTACLES: Parking is tough in winter. You will need to park along state Route 3 and use the farm road to find the trailhead. The farm road and trailhead is not marked oﬀ Route 3, so a recreation map of the area is best to have on hand. QUOTE: “The snowshoe is through open landscape with fascinating walls of white as the snow coats the trees. The McKenzie Mountain Wilderness stands high above the opposite side of the pond.” — www.lakeplacid.com DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of Main Street and state Route 3 in Saranac Lake, follow the signs for Route 3 West. Continue on Route 3 toward Bloomingdale for 4.25 miles to the farm access road. There is a fence lining the dirt road back to the Saranac River, it will not be plowed. Park roadside in a safe location.

ACTIVITY: Snowshoeing DIFFICULTY: Easy to moderate DISTANCE: 1.6 miles, round-trip PERKS: An easy, short snowshoe will get you to stellar views. Big bang for the buck. Baker is considered the easiest of the Saranac Lake 6ers, making it a good starting point if you are interested in joining the club that requires hiking Mount Baker, Ampersand Mountain, St. Regis Mountain, McKenzie Mountain, Haystack Mountain and Scarface Mountain. OBSTACLES: Even though this is a small mountain within the village, it can present quite a challenge. The trail can be icy and is quite steep on the way up and down. It is easy to lose track of the trail once you reach the summit. QUOTE: “The summit of Baker offers great views over the village of Saranac Lake, the McKenzie Mountain Wilderness Area and toward the High Peaks Region.” — www.lakeplacid.com DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of Main Street and state Route 3 in Saranac Lake, follow Main Street. Continue on Main Street past the library and through a stoplight. At the intersection with Pine Street take a right and go a few hundred feet to Forest Hill Avenue on the left. Follow Forest Hill Avenue around to the trailhead which will be on the left, with Moody Pond on the right.

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World Snowshoe Championships another $10,000 to $12,000, the mayor said. As part of a Regional Economic Development Council award announced in December, the state is giving the village $75,000 to help organize the event. “We’ve got a lot of money to work with, and we’ll put it to use to bring people to this event, and secondarily to market Saranac Lake as a winter and year-round destination,” Rabideau said. “Our businesses are very happy that this once in a life time opportunity is here,” said chamber Director Johnny Muldowney. “We’re looking forward to 400-plus athletes and visitors coming here and having a good time, so let’s show them what Saranac Lake is all about.” Adirondack Health CEO Sylvia Getman, town of Harrietstown Councilman Ron Keough and Dewey Mountain Recreation Center Manager Jason Smith also spoke at Wednesday’s event.

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tional governing body. Last February, Rabideau traveled to Vezza d’Oglio, Italy, the site of the 2016 championships, to lobby for Saranac Lake’s bid and to see how the games are run. That’s when he learned the village had been awarded this year’s event. It’s the first time the championships have ever been held in the U.S. Jim Tucker and members of his Paul Smith’s College Striders snowshoe racing team also traveled to Italy to compete in last year’s championships. “To bring the world championships here, it’s a wonderful opportunity for the country, a wonderful opportunity for New York state, and great for Saranac Lake,” Tucker said.

Challenging course

The races will start in front of the town hall. From there, the course will run across the intersection of Main and River streets, over the Lake Flower dam and up Lake Street hill. It then goes into the woods, through several private properties at the end of View, Balsam and Jenkins streets, and on to Dewey Mountain Recreation Center. From there, it returns on the same route, ending in Riverside Park. “Mostly, it’s going to be in the woods and on Dewey Mountain,” Rabideau said. “We had about nine property owners give us an easement through their property for this event. It’s basically through their backyards into the Dewey Mountain ski area. It’s a challenging course.” Bob Bolton, an assistant coach of the PSC Striders team, competed in last year’s world championships. He said the top American runners will have their hands full keeping up with the French and Italian racers. However, the Italian

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Schedule

The World Snowshoe Championships are set for Feb. 25 in Saranac Lake.

PHOTO — JUSTIN A. LEVINE

course last year was very different than what racers will encounter here, Bolton noted. “They didn’t have any snow last year, so they had to truck snow in,” he said. “The course was only about 4.5 miles (7.2 kilometers). This is going to be a true 10k, and we have some pretty good climbs. It will be a lot harder. Some of them will love it. Some of them will think it might be a little too hard.”

Walking party

For those who want to get a taste of the event but move at their own pace, there’s the Shoe-Be-Doo, a combination walk and race that is open to the public for a $25 charge. It’s free for students in grades 12 and under. “Yes, there’s a competitive part, people are going to be racing for medals, but it’s also a walking party, and we invite everyone to participate, especially young peo-

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ple,” Rabideau said. “There’s going to be food and drink and some music along the way. It’s going to be a walking party on snowshoes.” The Shoe-Be-Doo is sponsored by Adirondack Health.

Money to work with

In total, Rabideau said organizers have received $20,000 in sponsorship revenue. Revenue from entry fees will also generate

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The World Snowshoe Championship festivities begin Friday, Feb. 24, with race-day registration, an athletes’ parade and a 5 p.m. opening ceremony at the Harrietstown Town Hall. Dewey Mountain will also host an event that night. Saturday, Feb. 25, is race day. It begins with pre-event activities in Riverside Park, including an exhibition by the Paul Smith’s College Woodsmen’s Team. The 10k race starts at 11 a.m. and will be followed by the 5k and Shoe-Be-Doo walk/run at 1 p.m. After the races, a Winter Heat Salsa Fiesta of live music will be held in the town hall auditorium at 2:30 p.m. A participant banquet and award ceremony will be held at 5 p.m. in the North Country Community College gymnasium. The event will wrap up with a fireworks display at 9 p.m.

Backcountry adventure

ROUND MOUNTAIN SCRAMBLE

By JUSTIN A. LEVINE

Hollis Tyndall and Mike Preimeau hike past a frozen waterfall during a trip guided by Carl Heilman II (right).

ice climbers from Vermont were starting to scale a 60-foot wall of frozen water. As the slopes got steeper, the elder Heilman helped students up and over a few obstacles with the aid of his ice axe. The class got an extended view of the King Wall, a popular rock climbing area, but kept on going uphill until we entered a narrow ravine of pure ice. The slope was steep, and we were pinched between angular boulders on the left and a sheer wall of ice on the right. The chute was successfully navigated on the way up, but several of the class participants were already nervous that they would have to descend the same way. About two hours after starting, the class cleared the last of the trees and came out onto the bare rock of the summit. Some explored and some ate lunch, but everyone was thrilled with the reward of the hike. When it was time to head down the mountain, the Heilmans gave a quick demonstra-

tion on how to control yourself while sliding down a slope with snowshoes on, then the class began the descent on their butts, sliding about 15 feet to the tree line. On the way down, the younger Heilman led the class around the most treacherous parts, including the icy chute that was giving people the fits. We found slopes that could be slid down, despite the relative lack of snow, and everyone at one point or another had a big smile and most likely a back full of snow. There were a couple of close calls on the way out, but as the woods darkened, the class was back on the side of the road, smiling and shaking hands. The Mountaineer has hosted the Adirondack International Mountaineering Festival in and around Keene Valley for the past 21 years. The festival includes guest climbers, slide shows and clinics on ice climbing for all levels, snowshoeing and avalanche safety.

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PHOTOS BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE

opping out of the dense evergreens, almost a dozen people scrambled up a steep, snowy slope to the open summit, where stunning views of the High Peaks stretched out for miles. And the fun part hadn’t even started yet. Eleven people, including the two guides, earned this view from the shoulder of Round Mountain outside of Keene Valley in early January during the “Adventure Snowshoeing with Carl Heilman” class that was offered as part of the The Mountaineer gear store’s annual Mountainfest. The class started out at the store, where renowned landscape photographer Carl Heilman II and his son Carl talked to the assembled class about the history and differences of snowshoe designs, how to properly layer clothes for winter and how to keep an eye on the weather in the mountains. The class then geared up and set out in a caravan of cars to the parking area on state Route 73. Bypassing the trailhead to the summit of Round Mountain, the class bushwhacked through the woods and started to follow a drainage. The recent weather ensured there was plenty of running water, and as we made our way up and over boulders and downed trees, a cliff band began to reveal itself on the right side of the valley. The class steadily climbed, passing under walls of rock and ice, learning just how important good crampons on the bottom of the snowshoes are. About halfway up, we stopped for a break at the same place two

February-March 2017