By SPENCER MORRISSEY
t’s amazing how from one winter to the next you can either be walking atop 2 feet of snow, walking on the grass or wallowing through unconsolidated powder. I’ll give you one guess which this was. My close friend and frequent hiking companion Jim Hopson and I decided to get a bit of a later start on this adventure, which just so happened to land us on the north side of the Pharaoh Mountain Wilderness. We met up just off Exit 29 of Interstate 87 and caravanned over to the trailhead for the Short Swing Trail, located off state Route 74 between Schroon Lake and Ticonderoga. I was a bit worried the parking area wouldn’t be plowed after the newest snowfall, but it was so our plan B for the day would not be necessary. It looked as though the trail had been used somewhat recently. The faint indentations of snowshoe tracks gave us a ray of hope. There ended up being about 3 inches of powder on the broken trail, which was solid enough underneath to support us, well me (let’s be honest, I’m not the smallest guy on the trails). We planned to sign in at the trail register, but the book was full, each pencil was broken and the pens frozen solid. That was OK, safety-wise, since we left notes and plans at home with the family — unless of course Jim’s life insurance policy was worth much more than mine, then ... We swiftly moved along the trail to Eagle Lake Dam and started our climb, which was steady but not overly steep. As we passed by the cliffs and rock outcroppings of Ragged Mountain, it brought back memories of my previous hike to that summit and whetted Jim’s motivation to return. The trail was still broken ever so slightly. We then finally crested the shoulder of Bear Mountain.
S h o r t S w in g, a nd b eyond
PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
I
Backcountry adventure
James Hopson fights through deep snow on Antwine Hill in the Pharoah Mountain Wilderness.
The apex of the trail only brought us to a long descent that left us at the spur trail for the Tubmill Marsh Lean-to. We could then see clearly that Pine Hill, which was one of our destinations for the day, was right in front of us and the trail would get us higher on the peak’s slopes.
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Climbing again, we crested a small hill and were quickly at a crossing of Rock Pond Brook. This little crossing, which we assumed would be of no major consequence and frozen solid, turned out to be a challenge. Sure it looked fine and dandy, but that didn’t stop me from finding the bottom. Of
course, it was only about 4 inches deep, but your mind can play tricks on you when you have a crack followed by a sudden downward momentum. Apparently, the previous snowshoers didn’t even try to cross, as the broken-out trail now ceased to exist.
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We currently found ourselves on unconsolidated terrain and breaking trail in no less than 14 inches of snow. We trudged on. Jim started with the trail-breaking force as we continued to climb to the shoulder of Pine Hill. Once Continued on page 2
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Pharoah Mountain Wilderness on the shoulder, we switched off and I continued the assault off-trail, and headed up the steep slopes of Pine Hill. The slopes didn’t hold back as we climbed the final 700 feet of elevation in just under four-tenths of a mile. The snow was deep as ever, and we could only do a few steps between each straight-legged breather. We opted to hike under the canopy of the hemlocks as much as we could because the hemlocks held snow in the needles, keeping the ground cover at a more manageable 6 inches. We soon found ourselves in the low-lying clouds of a rather damp winter day; the hoarfrost on the white pine needles scrapped against our jackets as we moved through. The opening through the trees gave us hope of a viewing platform as we approached a lower knob on the hill, but the white pines were too tall to afford us more than an obscured view through the slight openings, under the cloud layer. The true summit awarded not much more for rewards, mainly because we were peasoup deep in the clouds. I felt I could safely presume its openness would have been quite pleasant. We settled for the interesting rock formations, frost on the trees and the thumping of snow shelves breaking way under us in micro-avalanches to fix our cravings for interesting features. After a quick snack and some hydration, we pressed on toward Antwine Hill, which was 300 feet lower than us in elevation and would only work us as hard as a 100-foot climb to its summit could afford. The ridge we followed off Pine Hill was a long landing zone of snow-covered open rock, which gave us the benefit of easy travel and periodic vistas out through the trees. Soon, we dropped dramatically off the ridge to reach the high col between the two summits. The col was narrow and deep as the steep slopes of both hills surrounded us. Snow seemed to gather here in the hopes of burying any visitors. Pushing on, I continued the trail-breaking work for a bit before Jim took over. Jim left me the final 200 feet or so as part of my finish. This was my 700th different Adirondack peak, which seems like ages ago as I am now about to crest 1,100. We celebrated on the summit with some hot coffee and homemade chocolate bread my wife Corenne made with black beans (yes, beans — it’s a pretty amazing glutenfree snack for the pack). Both Jim and I didn’t like the appeal of climbing back up the 400 feet of elevation on Pine Hill, so we opted for the backup plan of a short descent down to Horseshoe Pond, which also rests on the Short Swing Trail that we followed in. This meant much more trail breaking, but we decided it would be OK since we both enjoy loops much more than out-and-back hikes. The descent off Antwine Hill was perfect — not too steep and quite interesting as it passed through a tall stand of red pines. In no time whatsoever, we stood at the shore of Horseshoe Pond. Dead snags dotted the pond and leatherleaf protruded the snow along shore. The trail was just a short one-tenth of a mile away and we were looking forward to being there. As suspected, this section of the trail had not been touched in a very long time, if at all that winter. We continued to break trail and much of the trail back to where we had left it was uphill. As we climbed steadily, the shallow slopes seemed much more difficult under the cur-
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James Hopson makes his way up Pine Hill.
PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
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rent conditions, and our legs were starting to feel it. As we passed by the trail that led to Rock Pond, we could see Lilypad Pond through the trees, but had no added interest to visit it at this time. The trail continued to climb up over a shoulder of Pine Hill, only to require us to descend most of that back down to Honey Pond. Honey Pond, just to say it, was a honey of a spot. Potter Hill was across the way, and the open rocks that lined the summit made Jim seem to salivate about another near-future visit. Once we snapped a few pictures and Jim wiped his chin, we made the final short climb up to where we broke off up the steep slopes of Pine Hill that morning. We knew it would be clear sailing back to the trailhead, but we were not looking forward to climbing back up and over the shoulder of Bear Mountain. With heads down and mouths shut, we plugged away at the last real slope of the day and sailed on out in prime fashion.
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Overlooked in t h e H i gh P e a ks View from South Meadow Mountain
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PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
What’s in a name
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
ere is a short list of mountains in the High Peaks Wilderness that just gets missed by the large groups clambering to the summits of the more well-known peaks of the Great Range and Mount Marcy. This list of lesser-known peaks continues to grow, and that’s the beauty of exploration and discovery. Sometimes you get skunked, sometimes you have a stellar payoff — you just never know until you seek out what others miss out.
Gooseberry Mountain
A gooseberry is an edible yellowish-green berry (sometimes red) with a skin that is translucent. I have never known gooseberry to grow in the wilds of the Adirondacks and especially in the cruel world of the High Peaks climate. Its thorny bush I suppose could have been mistaken for a thorn-apple bush at some point in the history of the naming of this peak, but again not a common plant in this region. If the feeling strikes and you want to visit this nearly 4,000-foot peak, take a wander up Chicken Coop Brook for a bit to enjoy some open rock walking before you dance with the entangles spruce of the mountain.
Point Balk
Not too many a hiker climbs to the summit of this small peak which rises a steep 1,000 feet from Slant Rock. But in 2004, myself and hiking partner Brian Yourdon decided to do just that. An early start from the Garden got us to the base of the massif, and after finding a small drainage we decided to head in. On one of the steepest climbs of my hiking career, we summited and took in many a view — most impressively that of Saddleback Mountain. Balk is an interesting word, most commonly used in relation to an illegal move by a baseball pitcher. However, the dictionary definition of this verb is to “stop short,” which is essentially what this point does in reference to Mount Marcy: It stops short of the summit. So, possibly this where they conceived the name “Point Balk.”
Little Marcy
This 1,700-foot shoulder peak of Mount Marcy proper has had a bit of an interesting past, name-wise. In the late 1800s, it started by gaining the name Hopkins Hump, which makes a bit of sense since it is near the Hopkins Trail for Mount Marcy. Not long later, and since it didn’t have enough rise to officially be called a separate peak, it was referred to as “No Name Mountain.” Well, that lasted a little while and got overlapped with another name of “No Man’s Mountain.” Of course, as you can suspect, none of these became official and apparently somewhere down the line it was agreed upon to call it Little Marcy. Which after knowing this backstory, seems a bit lame compared to “No Man’s Mountain.” What most people probably don’t realize is, every time you climb Mount Marcy you are ever-so-close to the summit of Little Marcy. Just a mere quarter mile or less would bring one to the wooded summit, but I don’t imagine I will see lines for this peak any time soon.
December 2017-January 2018
Gothics from Hogback Mountain South Meadow Mountain
The name South Meadow Mountain has been tossed around so much over the years. At one time Phelps was called South Meadow Mountain and Van Hoevenberg was also labeled with it. Now of course, according to Barbara McMartin’s Guide to the High Peaks, a 3,350foot knob on the north side of Phelps bears the name. If you ever decide to climb this peak named after South Meadow to it north, consider doing it from the Klondike Notch Trail. From there, you will awarded some of the most fantastic open birch glades you can ask for. Then once you reach the wooded summit, continue a bit farther south and you will come to a wide-open rock slab gaining you some of the coolest views of Avalanche Pass one can ask for.
Hogback Mountain slide
Howard Mountain
Standing at around 3,850 feet in elevation, Howard Mountain is often mistaken as a shoulder of Tabletop Mountain, which of course, it essentially is. But as a standalone peak it’s an interesting visit, if you would like a close look at a spruce tree.
Hogback Mountain
The Hogback Lean-to resided along the trail to Bushnell Falls before being removed in the early 1970s. It was just north of Hogback Brook which drained the side of Howard Mountain. Hogback Mountain was never an official name for the long nose-shaped summit south of Howard Mountain, but seen as more of a ridge or shoulder of Tabletop Mountain. However, its shape does call out “hogback.” A hogback is a mountain which is long in shape and has steep sides that perfectly describe this natural feature. If you ever decide to visit this small peak, it can easily be reached from just above Bushnell Falls, which is steep with many ledges and offers some interesting views along its edges.
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O
By AARON CERBONE
ne-hundred-and-fourteen people gathered in Berkeley Green in Saranac Lake on a chilly Saturday morning in October, waiting for the signal to spread out and conquer the mountains surrounding the village. The first-ever Saranac 6er Relay race drew hikers from British Columbia, Canada, Elmira and around the North Country to put together teams of six to see who could race to the peaks of six mountains first. The rules were simple: one runner, one mountain. At the peaks of Baker, Scarface, Haystack, McKenzie, St. Regis and Panther a box tied to a tree carried the coveted hole punch needed to knock that Saranac 6er peak off the list. Ampersand, one of the Saranac 6ers, was not included in the relay as the Department of Environmental Conservation notified the organizers earlier in the week that the mountain is a part of the High Peaks Wilderness and is not allowed to be used for competitive races. “A DEC management goal is to refer these activities to Wild Forest areas,” according to the 1999 High Peaks Unit Management Plan. Panther Mountain was a substitute for Ampersand as an honorary 6er, cutting the steep 5.4-mile trip to a 1.2-mile dash. With 19 teams competing, the peaks were busy as teams of veterans, students and college presidents raced up and down the mountainsides, handing their cards off to the next runner and peeling off toward the next mountain. One of those teams, the Mountain G.O.A.T.S. (Greatest Of All Time), was comprised of five family and friends I invited from Rochester. My younger brother, Stephen Cerbone, Jordan Hosmer, John Pappano, Anthony Curletta and Josh Baranello came to Saranac Lake with a goal to simply finish the 6er relay within the deadline. After rules were clarified and several teams performed their Haka, an intimidating war dance of the New Zealand Maori people and New Zeland rugby team the All Blacks, village Mayor Clyde Rabideau sent teams running for their cars with a rousing “On your mark, get set, go!” A mere three hours after I summited McKenzie, the first finishers rang the bell in Berkeley Green. The Paul Smith’s College team, made up of students representing the forestry-focused college, arrived at 1:48 p.m., keeping their time short because one member had to be at a wedding in the afternoon. Paul Smith’s College found itself in second place as well when the “Bombers” rang the bell at 2:07 p.m., completing six peaks in just over eight hours. Twenty minutes later, Mountain Venture Guiding Inc. earned its place on the podium with 17 more teams clocking out between 2:36 p.m. and 9:05 p.m. At the trailhead of each moun-
Jordan Hosmer and Stephen Cerbone sit on the top of Haystack Mountain during the Saranac 6er Relay.
tain, teams tailgated and waited for their runners to return while eating, chatting with other teams and preparing pies. The Hills Have Pies, a band of Canadian and U.S. servicemen, welcomed their triumphant peak conquerors with a whipped cream pie in the face and a drink from a hollowed pumpkin. I had the honor of participating in this custom when I pied Nick Kerr after his return from the St. Regis summit. Pappano took Baker first, reaching the box Rabideau placed the day before and ticking off the closest of the 6ers within the hour. At the Haystack and McKenzie trailhead, off state Route 86, the excitement was evident as people in tutus waited for their costumed teammates to return while cars pulled in and runners dashed out. After accompanying Hosmer, our Haystack climber, and my brother to the final peak, the long trail to McKenzie from the Haystack trail was grueling, but knowing the Mountain G.O.A.T.S. were relying on me and seeing other contestants with the energy to sprint on the return kept me going. We did not have any delusions about setting a record or placing first. That was left up to the David Gomlaks, trail runners and the guy wearing a “The Flash” T-shirt. However, we did want to record the best time we could, and if we were going to do that I had to keep my head up and feet moving. Leaving the orange and purple hues of the leaf-covered trail, relay
runners ascended into the vibrant green pines as they approached McKenzie’s summit, disappearing into the cloud capping the highest of the 6er peaks. With thick cloud cover, there was not much of a view from the summit, but we were not there to take in the sights. The slippery, technical decent banged me around a bit but once the land leveled I
was back to my old mantra: head up, feet moving. The Hills Have Pies won the Novel Team-Building Concept award, a last-minute addition to reward the team’s willingness to take a pie to the face in their most exhausted hour. The relay, conceptualized by village clerk Kareen Tyler, had such a positive response from runners
PHOTOS BY AARON CERBONE
He ad up , f ee t mo vin g
Mountain challenge
that the village has already announced next year’s relay will take place the Saturday after Columbus Day weekend on Oct. 13. “I have to tell you, yesterday was probably the most fun we’ve had in all the events,” Rabideau told the crowd at the award ceremony the day after the race. The Saranac Lake 6er Facebook page opened a forum asking for suggestions to improve the relay next year and said it will look into the possibility of including Ampersand the next time around. “Perhaps we could petition for a revision of the state constitution,” the Saranac Lake 6er Facebook page wrote in response to a request to include the mountain. The 6ers have been the scene for several races and challenges since their designation in 2013 and have inspired other peak designations, such as the Tupper Lake Triad, which held an ultra-challenge of its own Oct. 21 with the ascents up Mount Arab, Coney Mountain and Goodman Mountain. And the Mountain G.O.A.T.S.? We staggered to the bell at 6:54 p.m., placing 16th out of 19 teams, after bagging the final three peaks. While we did not make the 6 p.m. cutoff, we still had our time recorded by staff who stayed late, and we received the Youngest Team award the next day. The G.O.A.T.S. will climb Saranac Lake’s mountains once again next year, better prepared and well trained to tackle the 6ers. Until then: head up, feet moving.
Participants of the first 6er Relay gather during the award ceremony in front of the Berkeley Green bell in Saranac Lake.
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Mountain challenge
TRiAD ChALLENgE DRAwS A CROwD
Mary Fontana and Maureen Shaheen
Louis Ferrone III
Todd and Kim George
PHOTOS BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE
By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
TUPPER LAKE — The first ever Tupper Triad Challenge drew an almost capacity crowd to three small mountains near Tupper Lake in October, and among the crowd were runners, walkers and strollers. Organizer Jim LaValley said the event was meant to get people outdoors and help promote one the Adirondacks’ newest hiking challenges. “The Triad has become a really popular thing, not just locally, but on a regional basis and we thought it was a great time of year,” LaValley said. “We thought doing a challenge like this would get people out moving and experiencing what the Triad is all about.” Thirty-seven competitors took to the Mount Arab trail at 9 a.m. on Saturday, Oct. 21, with competitors divided into age groups. Most of the competitors were content to just take it easy, with an eye out for the free beer and lunch that came with the registration price. “We love the challenge and hiking a mountain first thing in the morning and it’s a great work out,” Samantha Bullock, of Edwards, said. “We’ll see what the day brings.” The first finisher of the day was Louis Ferrone III, a recent Paul Smith’s College grad from East Syracuse. Fer-
Hayden LaMere
rone finished the three mountains — a 7.6-mile total, including drive time between trails — in 1 hour, 31 minutes. Ferrone said he’d never done any of the Triad mountains — Coney, Goodman and Arab — before. “We just heard about it yesterday,” Ferrone laughed. “And I had the time, so I came up.” While Ferrrone hadn’t done the Triad previously, he is no stranger to long distances or extreme trail running. “I think I ran my first 5K in 2002, but since then I’ve gotten into ultra marathons in the past six years,” he
said. “I’ve actually done none of these before, I’ve always driven by them and I like the cliffs on the edge. I’ve always thought I’d like to get up those mountains, and it turns out they were the ones for today. “I had no idea what to expect, honestly. I didn’t look at what the trail conditions were. The roots are my main concern when I’m running because you can’t see them well when you’re running. I actually did roll my ankle when I was coming down from Mount Arab. “I was like ‘Oh man,’ but it bounced back and I was good.”
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C o l d s h o u ld e r p ur s u it s
On the trail
G
By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
etting outdoors this time of year can be a mixed bag. There are times when there’s not enough snow at low elevations, but the High Peaks are dangerously cold and winter-like. It could be sunny and warm or overcast and cold. Snow, rain and sleet are all in the mix. But that doesn’t mean you should hole up and ride it out until it’s full-blown ski season. There are a number of locations around the Tri-Lakes that offer relatively flat, close-tothe-road excursions that can be as long or short, as the weather and lack of daylight allow.
Heaven Hill
Perhaps one of the best spots to get out to, whether it’s in hiking shoes, snowshoes or on skis, is the Heaven Hill trails on Bear Cub Lane in Lake Placid. The Heaven Hill trails are located on the property of Uihlein Foundation, which opened the trails to the public several years ago. Human-powered pursuits of all kinds are welcome, from walking to mountain biking. Dogs are also allowed as long as they’re under control and the owner cleans up after them. There are even complimentary bags to clean up the dog doo. The Heaven Hill trails offer a wide variety of distances, although the terrain is somewhat uniform. It’s pleasantly flat, making for a good spot to take kids, strollers or people who wouldn’t go hike a mountain. From the parking area, hikers can either go left or right. Generally, to the left is the Old Orchard Loop and the Big Field Loop. Together, these two loops make for a nice, nearly 2-mile walk that goes through old farm fields and around the edges of an old orchard. The apple trees were bard in mid-November, but the views from the orchard of the surrounding mountains and High Peaks more than made up for the flat fall color scheme. There is a map of the trails at the welcome kiosk or online, and with such a large number of loops and trails, Heaven Hill offers maximum custom-ability.
Henry’s Woods
For those looking for a little more adventure or elevation gain, Henry’s Woods — also on Bear Cub Lane — can pro-
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Catherine Bishop and Russ Roberts enjoy a November hike with their dog Spookie on the well-marked Heaven Hill trails in Lake Placid.
vide a little more excitement. With several miles of trails, Henry’s Woods — also owned by the Uihlein Foundation — can provide a wider range of experiences for hikers and snowshoers. The same rules apply at Henry’s Woods as at Heaven Hill. Nestled on more than 200 acres of forest, the trails at Henry’s Woods provide more than four miles of hiking. From the relatively easy loop trail to the steeper and more difficult Rocky Knob trail, there’s a little something for everyone here. The Rocky Knob trail provides the most difficult experience at the property, but also gives hikers views of Lake Placid and the surrounding mountains. “Many interesting turns and twists lead to several magnificent views near the summit,” the foundation says of the Rocky Knob trail. Henry’s Woods has more than 4 miles of trails, and loops can be combined for a variety of distances.
Bloomingdale Bog Trail
The former railroad bed that stretches from just outside the village of Saranac Lake out to Onchiota and beyond is a favorite of locals looking to get out for a little while. There’s certainly not enough snow to worry about snowmobiles on the bog trail yet, so skiers could get a jump on
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the season without having to dodge motorized vehicles. The bog trail has a couple of starting points, but the fact of the matter is that it’s flat and straight. However, what the trail lacks in terrain it more than makes up for in chances for seeing wildlife and birds. Gray jays and northern flickers, along with numerous species of warblers, all call the bog home, and this time of year could be especially productive as migrating birds spend a few days in the area. The bog trail is typically an out-andback hike, so go as far as you want along the old rail bed.
Tupper Lake Country Club
Although there was no snow on the ground in mid-November, there’s little doubt that the area will soon be covered in the white stuff. Tupper Lake works with a group of volunteers to groom cross-country ski trails at the golf course, but before then walkers and snowshoers are welcome. The trail system is dog friendly and free, and can be enjoyed prior to grooming. The only caveat is that snowshoers, while welcome, should remain to the side of the groomed trails. For a map of the trails in Tupper Lake, go to www.tupperlake.com/activities/tupper-lake-groomed-xc-ski-center.
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December 2017-January 2018
On the trail
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December 2017-January 2018
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Backcountry safety
PRePARe IN AdVANCe FOR SAFe TRAVeL T
By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
he summer season ended with a spate of high profile searches for missing hikers in the Adirondacks, most of which have ended with positive outcomes. And while the state Department of Environmental Conservation forest rangers are often quick to rescue those who get injured, once a person is lost there is almost always a common thread: those hikers are unprepared. Richard Guinan, a hiker who was missing for two days near St. Regis Mountain in Paul Smiths, managed to survive his ordeal. Rangers later stated he was unprepared. In another incident a week later, the body of Alex Stevens was found after he was missing for two weeks in mid-September. The last people to see Stevens said he had shorts and sandals on, hardly appropriate attire for fall weather in the Adirondacks. But what does it mean to “be prepared?”
Essentials
Once you’ve decided where to go and let someone who will follow up know, it’s time to pack your bag. Make no mistake, there are essentially no hikes in the Adirondacks that don’t require you to bring some supplies in case of emergency. And the longer the hike, the more you should be prepared. First and foremost, water and food are needed, and it’s better to bring extra than to run out. For water, pack what you think you need and then add some more. Same goes for food: Make sure to bring enough to eat and then think about what you’d need to get through an unplanned night in the woods. A couple of extra granola bars could provide much-needed calories in the event you get stranded. Next up is a map and compass, and no, your phone does not count. In fact, consider it dead weight because if the screen cracks or the battery dies or it gets wet, that’s exactly what it is. Guinan was relying on his phone and was lucky enough to get a call out to his wife before the battery died, but in all other ways, his phone was useless. The nice thing about carrying a paper map and decent compass is that there are no batteries to die. But more important than having these items with you is a basic understanding of how to use them. Can you orient your map to north? Do you know how to set the declination on the compass? If not, take a class, look it up online or ask a more experienced hiker. Most importantly, don’t wait until you’re lost to try and figure this stuff out. Any time you go into the woods, you should also have a first-aid kit with you. This doesn’t have to be anything serious or heavy. There’s no need to carry a defibrillator into the woods, but some band aids and gauze can relieve most of the common ailments hikers will endure, and mole skin or
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PHOTO BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE
Itinerary
The first thing one should do when planning a hiking or backcountry trip should be obvious: Figure out where you want to go. Once that’s done, make an itinerary, and — just as important — stick to it. There are many forms (like the one printed on this page) floating around the internet and Facebook which have fill-in-theblank lines that provide a solid way to let others know where you’re planning on going. But that information is useless if it’s sitting on your kitchen counter or if you leave it with an unreliable friend. An itinerary can be elaborate or basic, but the necessary information includes where you’re going, when you’ll be back and who you are with. It’s helpful to include more information such as make/model/color of your car and what you’ll be wearing, and the particular trailhead you’ll be leaving from if there’s more than one option. The itinerary should be given to someone you trust, not the bartender you just met last night. And the person doesn’t even have to be close by, just so long as they’re reliable enough to pay attention to when you’re supposed to return. Something as simple as a text message to a relative can be sufficient, but make sure the person you’re trusting knows to call 911 or DEC dispatch if you don’t return on time. As a related note, the itinerary you plan may or may not work out. The key is to not change it too much. For instance, if you plan to hike Cascade and Porter mountains, let your contact person know that you might only do one of those peaks depending on the amount of time you have. Just don’t decide to go do Mount Marcy if your itinerary says Cascade and Porter.
duct tape can help with blisters. In addition to the first-aid kit, be sure to bring some sunglasses and sunscreen in case you’re left exposed to the elements. Sunscreen may not be necessary in the winter, but snow blindness can be debilitating to a serious extent. Especially in winter, when the sun comes up much later, it can be easy to forget sunglasses or goggles so throw them in your pack before leaving the house. The weather this fall has been unseasonably warm, and that may lead to some pacification in terms of bringing extra clothing with you, but even when the sun is shining and the days are warm, night time temperatures can plummet. And if you sweat a lot or get wet in any way, then an extra set of clothes can save your life. A fleece sweater weighs basically nothing, but can keep you warm and provide some much-needed comfort if you get lost, and with the impending onset of winter, a wool hat and extra socks are also recommended. Some experts recommend bringing tools and a repair kit with you, but for a day hike a knife or multi-tool is likely all you’ll need. Combined with duct tape, a multi-tool can fix a blown-out boot or backpack strap and keep you moving along. For longer trips, consider bringing a tent patch kit or something similar. It’s also important to bring some sort of shelter with you. Whether it’s a space blanket, tarp, bivy sack or tent, be sure to put something into your pack that will keep you out of the wind and weather. Just remember that a space blanket, while cheap and light, won’t really do a whole lot for you unless you have other forms of insulation, such as a blanket or sleeping bag. The last two items that are necessary for any backcountry excursion deal with light and heat. A headlamp is always needed, even in summer when the days are long. I once had to hike down Noonmark Mountain in the dark, using just a Bic lighter to show the way. It was not fun. Headlamps and flashlights don’t need to be expensive, but they do need working batteries. An old trick is to make sure all of your electronics (headlamp, GPS) use the same battery type so you don’t have to make that distinction. And with the expansion of LED lights, even a small, single battery headlamp can provide plenty of illumination. Last but not least, is to be sure and include a fire starting kit in your pack. Fires are not allowed in the Eastern High Peaks, but if it’s going to save your life, then risk the ticket. A fire starting kit shouldn’t just be a lighter thrown into your bag, nor should it be two sticks that you plan to rub together. Your kit should include a couple of ways
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to create a spark, including a butane lighter, storm matches and/or a flint and steel. There should also be some tinder such as dryer lint, birch bark or roofing tar paper. The latter two are water-resistant, and dryer lint can be mixed with some petrolium jelly to make it easier to start. The key to being prepared is not to just
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wing it. Plan ahead and stick to your plan. If you plan for the worst, then anything less will be a treat. Embark writer Justin Levine is also the coordinator of Search and Rescue of the Northern Adirondacks, a volunteer SAR team based in Saranac Lake.
December 2017-January 2018
Buyer’s guide
ThE RighT COMPASS fOR ThE SiTuATiON
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By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
good piece of gear can mean the difference between life and death in the backcountry, but as with anything, the knowledge of how to use it is equally important. Nick Gulli, who works at The Mountaineer gear store in Keene Valley said the most useful tool backcountry visitors can have with them is their brain. He also said that a compass and map is almost as important. “The reliability and the simple skills that come along with it,” Gulli said. “I think it’s great to get your bearings on a summit, but also knowing what you’re getting into — seeking out a class or something like that — is equally important.” As with most outdoor gear, there is a wide variety of compasses on the market, and prices and features vary.
Button compass
One of the first compasses many people own is the little one that attaches to your jacket zipper. It may have a little thermometer with it, and Gulli said those can be good for following a rough bearing. “Those are still good,” he said. “I know a lot of hunters that have that for a quick reference as they’re moving. Then when they get to their next point, they get out their other compass.” The button compasses can be quite inexpensive, but the downside is that they’re not good for fine navigating. If you just need to know which direction North is, they they’ll do. But if you’re looking for a specific spot and are navigating to it, then a more accurate compass may be necessary.
Traditional compass
Traditional compasses, sometimes called magnetic compasses (which is odd, since all compasses rely on the Earth’s magnetism) will suffice for many uses. If you’re a hiker who generally sticks to the trails or wellworn herd paths, the tradi-
PHOTO BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE
Left, a basic compass with thermometer and emergency whistle can provide a quick reference for general direction finding. Center, a traditional compass without adjustable declination still offers amenities such as a magnifying glass and measurement tools. Right, this Suunto compass has adjustable declination, measuring tools and a sighting mirror that pulls double duty for highly accurate navigation and signaling in an emergency.
tional compass will likely meet most of your needs. Even within this group of compasses, there is a wide range of features. Some are just the compass, while others may include a small magnifying glass for looking at map features and the sides can be lined with measuring tools to help determine your location and distance from a given point. Gulli said there’s a couple of features to look for in this range, such as a liquid-filled bevel (no bubbles) or maybe even glow-in-the-dark marks for easier reading of
the compass in the dark. “It doesn’t take much to get turned around,” he said. “[Such as in] whiteouts, that’s where it can make a difference.” Gulli said that even if a hiker doesn’t end up in a life threatening situation, having a good compass and basic knowledge of how to use it can be helpful — even if it’s just using the compass to figure out what mountains you can see from a summit.
Adjustable declination
If you’re reading this, chances are that you know
already that compasses point north. But what we think of as the North Pole isn’t exactly a fixed spot in the Arctic. In fact, the pole that your compass points to is slightly off from what we envision as the top of the Earth. This means that when the compass arrow shows north, it’s not pointing at the exact pole, it’s slightly off. Higher end compasses, which can still be quite affordable for such an important piece of gear, will have an adjustable declination ring. If you plan on getting
off trail or navigating at night or in low visibility conditions (snow, fog), then having an adjustable declination can be a huge bonus. On the back of compasses with adjustable declination there will be a little screw that turns a plate on the compass. Some brands have “tool-less” adjustments, while others will have a small tool attached to the lanyard that can be used to adjust the declination plate. Declination can be figured out on a non-adjustable compass, but it requires addition and subtraction that
can easily be messed up, especially when you’re tired or worn out from a day of hiking or skiing. Being able to set the declination ahead of time eliminates the need for doing all that math while in the field.
Phone
Many smart phones come with or have a compass app that can be downloaded. Gulli said that technology has come a long way, but a phone or GPS relies on batteries which can die. A compass has no such downside.
Recommended reading
T
FReSH LOOK AT NATIVeS IN THe AdIRONdACKS By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
he Adirondacks are steeped in Native American lore and history going back centuries, and one of the earliest and most definitive texts on the subject has gotten a bit of an update from Cornell University Press. “The History of the Five Indian Nations” by Cadwallader Colden (no relation to the High Peak) delves into the social and political history of the Mohawk, Onondaga, Oneida, Cayuga and Seneca tribes, all of which were based in what is now referred to as upstate New York. The original text this book was based on was published in 1727 and was updated by Colden with an addition in 1747. Earlier this year, Cornell released its version of the book, complete with explanatory essays and context to make it more palatable to the modern reader. Make no mistake, this is not a book for the casual reader, but rather a deep dive into the thoughts and interpretations of a man who witnessed Native American culture before Europeans put their stran-
The History of the Five Indian Nations AUTHOR: Cadwallader Colden PAGeS: 216 COPYRIGHT: 2017
glehold on the native way of life. But, if you can get past the oldtime style of writing and seemingly random capitalization of
December 2017-January 2018
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words, Colden’s book offers a glimpse of a long-gone culture that too often gets glossed over in school and history books. Colden’s original text was meant to be an introduction for English readers who were just learning about the New World. What is fascinating about Colden’s narrative is the degree to which the natives had already formed a sort of government prior to white men coming to North America. In his prelude essay to the Colden text, Karim M. Tiro — a chair of the history department at Xavier University — says that “Colden’s book makes it abundantly clear that the Five Nations’ union prevented more bloodshed among themselves and greatly enhanced their capacity to strike blows against — or bargains with — entities outside the Longhouse.” Colden, like his contemporaries and many writers who followed, wrote his book based on personal observations. However, Colden was not a missionary or trader who had a vested interest in pushing an agenda, making History one of the few texts from that time that offers a fairly unbiased look at Native
American cultures. In fact, the opening salvo of his original book seems to hold the native form of government in higher regard than that of his countrymen. “A few words will serve to give the Reader a general Notion of that of the Five Nations, because it still remains under Original Simplicity, free from those complicated Contrivances which have become necessary to those Nations where Deceit and Cunning have increased as much as their Knowledge and Wisdom,” he writes. And although the bulk of this book is from the mid-1700s, there are some poignant passages that some modern politicians could learn from as well. “Their Great Men, both Sachems and Captains, are generally poorer than the common People, for they affect to give away and distribute all the Presents or Plunder they get in their Treaties or War, so as to leave nothing to themselves. “If they should once be suspected of Selfishness, they would grow mean in the opinion of their Country-men, and would consequently lose their authority.”
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At the time of the writing, the tribe known as the Algonquins were called Adirondacks by the English. It can be confusing at times, but once acknowledged, the reader can move past this. Colden tells stories of hunting parties and how the Five Nations partnered with Algonquins to learn how to become better hunters, while at the same time the Algonquin were running into game shortages and wanted to learn about and trade for corn, beans and squash — also known as the Three Sisters. He recounts the tale of a hunting party of Algonquins and Five Nation Indians that went bad and led to a battle of the tribes on Lake Champlain, along with dozens of other stories of natives interacting with each other along with the French and English. Colden’s book is a fascinating read, and gives a relatively unfiltered look at Native American customs and society during a time of upheaval in North America. Although History is far from a fast read, fans of the Adirondacks and early American and Native American history will find plenty to love in its pages.
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Five trips
Easy-to-reach winter waterfalls
Rainbow Falls
Beaver Meadow and Rainbow Falls ACTIVITY: hiking dIFFICULTY: Moderate dISTANCe: 8 to 10 miles, round trip PeRKS: This is an excellent full-day adventure into the high Peaks Region with outstanding mountain views as well as the experience of secluded waterfalls. A perk is the easy approach to these waterfalls and the possibility to ski a large portion of the route. Either one can be done alone and by no means, need to be combined. OBSTACLeS: Distance could be an obstacle on this one. Also, be aware of heavy ice buildup along the trail to Rainbow falls. Traction is a must. QUOTe: “Two great falls, the impressive Beaver Meadows and Rainbow falls, which is 15 stories of waterfall which cascades into a deep, short gorge. There's also other smaller falls. however, there is no set of trails marked as the ‘great falls Loop,’ so you have to follow the directions closely. This entire hike is on the private property of the Adirondack Mountain Reserve (AMR) where dogs are absolutely prohibited in this game preserve. This trip offers some of the most spectacular sights of the Adirondacks. Can make its own hike or can be a MustNot-Miss part of bagging nearby gothics and upper & Lower wolf Jaw.” — www.lakeplacid.com dIReCTIONS: This hike can be found out of the Adirondack Mountain Reserve which is in St. huberts, just south of Keene Valley. Parking for the start of this hike is located across state Route 73 from the Roaring Brook falls and giant Mountain trailheads.
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By SPENCER MORRISSEY
PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
5 The Flume
High Falls Gorge
Split Rock Falls
Stag Brook Falls
ACTIVITY: hiking dIFFICULTY: Easy dISTANCe: Less than a mile PeRKS: The flume is one of the more popular summertime waterfalls, mainly due to its popular swim hole, but in winter i would say it’s popularity for such activity is rendered to zilch. This large waterfall complex has a path leading downstream on both sides of the Ausable River. OBSTACLeS: The trails can be dangerous in the summer due to numerous steep drops and no rail to protect you. The danger is much higher with snow and ice in the winter. QUOTe: “The upper waterfall is just above the bridge. it is a small waterfall about 10 feet tall which serves to preview the falls below. The middle fall is best seen from downstream and falls about 25 feet into a narrow gorge. The lower fall drops about 20 feet into a large pool that seems to be a fairly popular swimming hole.” — Adirondackscenicbyways.org dIReCTIONS: Locate the flume’s parking area outside of wilmington on state Route 86, across the river from the hungry Trout restaurant.
ACTIVITY: hiking dIFFICULTY: Easy dISTANCe: Varies, but no more than a mile PeRKS: There are snowshoes on site for rent if needed. These falls can be safely viewed from platforms and protected steps. Outstanding beauty and colors await the visitor, with a hot drink at the cafe available for those so inclined. OBSTACLeS: high falls is a tourist attraction, which means you will need to pay a fee to use the property. i guess that’s not an obstacle, but definitely something to be aware of. QUOTe: “high falls gorge is a 22-acre, privately owned nature park. we provide safe trail access for all ages to an otherwise inaccessible area, with four splendid Adirondack waterfalls cascading over rocks into a deep crevice carved a billion years ago. in the shadow of whiteface Mountain Ski Resort, you can take a nature walk and hike to view the famous AuSable River as it cascades over ancient granite cliffs. Sturdy bridges, walkways and groomed walking and hiking trails provide safe access to breathtaking Adirondack views and scenic photographic vantage points.” — High Falls Gorge dIReCTIONS: high falls gorge is located just under 5 miles from the wilmington town center on state Route 86.
ACTIVITY: hiking dIFFICULTY: Easy dISTANCe: Roadside PeRKS: Several different vantage points for this roadside beauty, and because it’s right next to the road it can be combined with others on this list. OBSTACLeS: icy edges and steep drops make certain areas very dangerous, so be aware of your surroundings. QUOTe: “At the top of the falls, the river finds its way through an outcropping of sharp, jagged rocks, forming several drops of about 15 or 20 feet into a pool. The next drop is a single plunge of another 15 feet or so, where the river levels out for a hundred yards or so. At this point, there is another outcropping of jagged rocks where there is a slide of another 10 feet or so. The river then calmly carries the water away.” — www.NNYwaterfalls.com dIReCTIONS: from interstate-87’s exit 30, head along state Route 9 toward Lake Placid. Continue on Route 9 through the “Malfunction Junction” for about an additional 3 miles to the parking on the right.
ACTIVITY: hiking dIFFICULTY: Easy dISTANCe: 1 mile, round trip PeRKS: This trail is very easy to hike and the waterfall is found less than a mile up the trail. There is a lower and upper waterfall, both of which can easily be seen from the trail. OBSTACLeS: None really to speak of, but of course one should always be careful near the water’s edge. QUOTe: “The hike will start on an uphill and continue to climb to its end. The largest of the falls is not too far along the trail and can be enjoyed from the base or from a bit higher as you continue along the trail. The trail continues along the left of the brook as it makes it way higher along the cascade. Other small waterfalls are met along the way.” — www.lakeplacid.com dIReCTIONS: The trail to the falls is located behind the base lodge at whiteface Ski Center in wilmington on state Route 86.
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December 2017-January 2018
Sampling sh if t
On the waterfront
ALSC water monitoring likely to fold
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By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
PHOTOS BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE
corporation responsible for conducting long-term monitoring of Adirondack lakes, ponds and streams is likely to cease operations at the end of the year, but one state agency is planning to continue the sampling in a reduced capacity. The Adirondack Lake Survey Corporation, which was founded in the mid-1980s, has conducted regular water quality monitoring on 52 lakes scattered around the Adirondack Park. But that is likely to change at the start of 2018, as the ALSC will run out of money for its operations. The ALSC is funded by a combination of state and federal money, but most of its funding has come from the New York State Energy Research and Development Authority (NYSERDA), which funds the water sampling as part of an effort to track the impacts energy production has on New York’s natural environment. Going back to the 1980s, there were clear trends in Adirondack waters that indicated power plant emissions from the Midwest were causing the acidification of Adirondack lakes and streams, and ALSC is responsible for the vast majority of the data collection that has informed both state and federal environmental regulations. The ALSC staff not only collect the water samples, but also evaluate them at their in-house lab, which sits behind the state Department of Environmental Conservation building in Ray Brook. But due to a change in focus by both ALSC and NYSERDA, ALSC’s lab and field operations will close and the eight staff that are employed will likely be out of work.
PHOTO PROVIDED
Field and lab work
Many of the employees have worked there for a decade or longer. Sue Capone has worked ALSC since the 1980s, and says she will miss the varied work that she has done for the ALSC. “We have different types of field work that gets done,” Capone said during a sampling trip to Heart Lake, outside of Lake Placid, last week. “We’ll hike anywhere between four and 12 miles a day, plus all the driving. It’s just very interesting to see all the lakes we go to.” Capone said the remoteness of the work often requires two or more employees to collect samples, and that reliance on each other in difficult conditions creates a family-like atmosphere. “There’s weight a lot of times to carry, and gear,” she said. “So not only do people have to think about being physically good and competent in quality control, but you also have to be physically fit and competent because you don’t want to be in the woods with someone who can’t help themselves or help you. “The people are just phenomenal. You spend a lot of time with them, you trust them, you get to know them. They’re important.” Capone said the consistency and meticulousness of the ALSC crew is one of the factors that has led to changes in air quality legislation, and worries that a new group might not be as dedicated. “You could send anyone, but the good thing about us is we’re extremely consistent,” she said. “So yes, you could send anybody in there theoretically, but the fact that you have the consistency throughout the years and the aptitude and the attitude. “It’s the importance of the people doing a good job and really being sold on the whole mission.” Capone said due to her longevity with ALSC, she has witnesses first-hand the changes that have occurred since water sampling started. “In the ’80s, it was exciting and you got to go to so many places,”
Sue Capone, above, Phil Snyder, left, and Jed dukett (pictured with Congresswoman elise Stefanik) are ALSC employees.
she said. “And in the ’90s, you got to go to the same place every month so you actually could see the changes as they came along. “There are just some areas that I absolutely love.” Phil Snyder, the ALSC lab manager, said the longevity of the program has created so many samples that trends in the water quality are hard to ignore. “I ran the numbers the other day,” Snyder said. “Since I started in 1999, it’s been about 36,000 samples. Since the ALTM program started in 1992, it’s like 42,000 samples and that doesn’t even include the survey in 1984. “If you calculate that out by the number of parameters (and) the number of data points, we’re in the 600,000-data points (range).” ALSC program manager Jed Dukett, a Saranac Lake native who now lives in Tupper Lake, said the consistency of the sampling ALSC does is perhaps the most important part of what the corporation has done over the years. “It starts in the field with consistent collection of samples, and it transitions to the lab,” Dukett said. “We have to be consistent, we have to do high-quality work and we’ve been able to do that. “And that’s why our trends
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show what they show. The researchers that use our data are able to make strong, solid points about the success and where we are in terms of the Clean Air Amendment Act, and it starts with this work right here. “That’s the one thing about the staff that I appreciate the most is the quality of work. They’re the best at what they do,” he said. “The reason why we’ve been able to put out good products is because of the people doing the work. That’s the bottom line. “Whatever is second is a long way down the line.”
Sampling continues
The end of the ALSC as it’s been does not mean the end of Adirondack water testing. Other groups do routine testing on specific waters or watersheds, and NYSERDA plans to continue the 52-lake sampling course, but with less frequency. Bill Opalka, a spokesman for NYSERDA, said a contractor, which could be the ALSC, would be selected this month to continue the sampling. Opalka said in an email that seven bids had been received for the continued sampling, and ALSC’s interim board president Willie Janeway said last
month that ALSC would be submitting a bid. The new request for proposals (RFP) designates $1 million over the course of the next five years. That money could be awarded to up to three contractors. One of the biggest hits to the ALSC is the loss of money for the lab, since NYSERDA is partnering with the federal U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) lab in Troy to process all the water samples. Opalka and Dukett both said the USGS lab has been involved with the monitoring for years, with Opalka adding that the USGS lab gets its funding from the Environmental Protection Agency through an interagency agreement. Janeway implied that the Trump administration’s decisions regarding environmental regulations could reverse some of the positive trends the ALSC has monitored over the years, and worries about the legal impact of changing the sampling routine at this time. “What we’re really worried about — the board of the survey corp. — is that we have a statistician saying, ‘Don’t worry, the reduced sampling still has statistical significance,’” Janeway said in September. “But I’ll bet you my lunch that the lawyer for the power
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plants in the Ohio Valley will have a statistician that will say, ‘Well, you actually changed your monitoring protocol at that same time, so that’s not valid data, so throw out the lawsuit.’” But Opalka said NYSERDA, the DEC and the federal EPA have determined that the proposed sampling protocol will be enough. “The evaluation showed that samples collected in June are statistically the same as July; samples collected in August are statistically the same as September and so on,” Opalka wrote in an email this week. “Using historical ALTM (Adirondack Long Term Monitoring) chemistry data, but eliminating every other month, the trends hold and are of the same statistical power as the whole dataset. Therefore, NYSERDA, NYS Department of Environmental Conservation and US Environmental Protection Agency are comfortable that sampling can be reduced to every other month without a loss of the ability to detect trends. “The resulting cost savings can be applied to other research and monitoring activities that will bring more value to our understanding of acidic and mercury deposition and the resulting environmental effects.”
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Local athletes are gearing up to qualify for the upcoming 2018 Winter Olympics. It will be an exciting time in PyeonChang, South Korea. We plan to give you a plethora of coverage in the newspaper, online, on social media and video that will transport you as if you were there.
February 9-25, 2018
2018 Winter OIympic Games
in the special daily coverage of the
Reach Olympic Fans
with Spencer Morrissey I Hidden High Peaks gems often overlooked I 6er and Tupper Triad challenge races I Easy hiking trails during shoulder season I Safety comes first in the backcountry I Five easy-to-reach winter waterfalls
I Off-trail adventure
Inside
December 2017-January 2018
Your guide to Adirondack adventure
©2017 Adirondack Daily Enterprise