Fall 2019
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
1
Contents
4
Hunting and hiking With a little bit of precaution, both groups can share the same woods
10 Send us your photos....................................................3 Hunting season...........................................................4 Buyer’s guide: Tents ....................................................6 Campground etiquette................................................8 Challenge tracking made easy ....................................9 Adirondack fire towers..............................................10
Fire towers Adirondack fire towers stand tall throughout the years
5 trips .......................................................................14 Long Lake surf and turf.............................................16 Adirondack toponyms...............................................18 Recommended reading.............................................19 Bird feeder watch......................................................20 Wildlife: American Marten........................................21
e M B AR K Brought to you by the publishers of the
THE LAKE PLACID NEWS and
14 2
Five trips Five paddling excursions in the St. Regis Canoe Area
Publisher: Catherine Moore Managing editor: Peter Crowley editor: Morgan Ryan Designer: Morgan Ryan email: sports@adirondackguide.com Produced by Adirondack Publishing, P.o. Box 318, 54 Broadway, saranac Lake, nY 12983 Cover photo: Griffin Kelly enjoys the view from Mount Van Hoevenberg. Photo by Justin A. Levine Although Embark is free, some of you may want to get a subscription if you live outside the circulation area or just want to guarantee yourself a copy. To have a subscription mailed to your home or business, call 518-891-2600.
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Fall 2019
Send us your photos ... Embark magazine looks forward to displaying your outdoors-related photographs in future editions. These photos were taken by Gearry Judkins, of Farmington, Maine, during his visit to the Paul Smith’s College VIC. Send submissions to sports@adirondackguide.com.
A All ll o off tthe h e sstuff t u ff y you ou n need e e d ffor or a g good o o d time. time. ((And A n d rroom o o m ffor or a b buddy, u d d y, ttoo!) oo!) We build ultralight, highly efficient carbon/kevlar pack canoes. Come take a test paddle and visit our full-service shop. (We carry racks, paddles, PFDs, clothing, dry bags and accessories.) 263 Station Street, Lake Placid Fall 2019
518-524-2949 EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
www.placidboats.com 3
Hunting season
M
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
Hikers and
any hikers decide to take a bit of time off during hunting season. The time off is not only to partake in hunting, but in some cases hikers are nervous about being in the woods. Hunting season isn’t a reason to become a couch potato. You still have to get out there to enjoy Mother Nature and do some serious hiking. Besides, this is a great time of year to be in the woods. The temperatures are much more moderate, no bugs to contend with and it’s easy to see deep into the woods with the lack of foliage. There was a time when hiking during hunting season was an overwhelming fear for some. However, as I now see it, the negative tones are heard less and less. Are the dangers still there? Are there fewer hunters? Why take a chance? These are all great questions and ones I hear the most and answer the most. Sure, there are people in the woods with loaded guns ready to fill their freezer. However, if you play it smart and take the proper precautions, you should have nothing to worry about. As far as the hunter population, I would guess there are fewer hunters the woods. Hunting seems to be becoming a lost hobby. Fish and game club membership is decreasing, and many are discounting memberships to encourage people to join. As far as taking a chance, that’s an odd question. Hunters don’t want an interaction any more than you do. Do you want to hike or not? The chance you are taking is somewhat dependent on the preparation you take to be safe. Hunting season has never stopped me from playing in the great outdoors, and I don’t figure it ever will. I have seen hunters or tracks of hunters many times in the woods while bushwhacking. Many times I am sure I have even walked by them without knowing it; but I bet they saw me. In the few times I have met hunters I have never had an issue, always pleasantries. I have even had a couple give me tips about what not to wear and what to do in prime hunting areas. I would like to share those with you today and a bit more. I don’t want to see you being an armchair mountaineer during this finest season for exploring. I want to see you out and about to enjoy the fall, the foliage and early winter.
Location is everything
Hunters in Harmony
In many areas of higher hiker population you are limited in the probability of seeing a hunter. On the trail to Marcy Dam or the trail up Algonquin, for example, there is a very slim chance. You will have a better chance on the trails in the western Adirondacks, South Meadow, northern Adirondacks and other less-populated hiking areas. 4
Hikers should wear bright colors, and dress their animals similarly, to alert hunters of their presence in the woods.
PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
With a few simple precautions, the two groups can co-exist
Many hunters will use the trails to access prime hunting locations, but not necessarily hunt from the trails (both of which are legal, by the way). If you bushwhack during hunting season, you must dress properly and follow many guidelines to be safe. Remember that deep in the bush is where most hunters are. I can’t guarantee that you will see a hunter while bushwhacking, but you not be expected by them.
Dress for success
This is the most important piece of safety equipment you can have. Wear bright colors like red, blaze orange and florescent colors and wear lots of them. Small patches of bright colors don’t work as well. The bright colors need to be seen from all directions and from
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Fall 2019
a distance, not just when you happen to be standing the right way or nearby. Your outer layer should be the bright color. If you shed that outer layer, your next layer better be just as noticeable. Make sure your clothing doesn’t have any white hanging from it. The white can resemble a tail of a deer and your constant movement makes you stick out like a sore thumb. This also goes for that white hat you have kicking around. In fact, just keep any clothing that might resemble fur (black, brown, white, etc.) at home. Your backpack should also be a bright color if you have it available. Don’t go out and buy a bright red pack just for hunting season; if your outer layer is bright enough, just make sure your pack doesn’t cover it up too much. If needed, tie a red kerchief from your pack for an accent. Think about a bear bell if you can stand the constant ringing; tie a bear bell from yourself someplace. This constant sound helps in identifying yourself. This however, might make your hiking partner to want to shoot you.
Your four-legged hiking partners
This is a tough one. Essentially, you should leave your dog at home during hunting season. In the very least, have your pet leashed at all
Fall 2019
Hunting season
ers; safety in numbers they say. Hiking in a group of two or more creates more noise and the racket of the constant chatter of conversation carries quite some distance in an otherwise quiet forest.
Where and when
Don’t limit yourself on where to go, but realize that less populated areas might attract more deer and essentially more hunters. Most hunters are seen within a few miles of a road, camp, lean-to or trailhead. The farther back you go, the less chance of contact you will have. This goes for time of day as well. The earlier you go, the more apt you’ll be to run into a hunter.
Easements
There are many hiking easements out there, but just as many hunting easements. Very few places restrict hiking during hunting season, but some do exist. Be aware of those locations if you were to consider going there. PHOTO BY MORGAN RYAN Again I want to emphasis that hiking times with no exceptions, even when stopped. and hunting DO mix. Respect one another and Your dog should have on a bear bell just in expect that you will meet up with one another case they get away from you. They should on some occasion. Most meet-ups can be a also be dressed as you are, in bright colors. simple wave to one another and a quiet pass by. In short, get out and play and leave the Hiking in groups worry at home. This is a great way to protect you and oth-
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
5
Buyer’s guide
How to CHoose tHe rigHt tent E
very company that has anything to do with the outdoor retail industry is making a tent and placing it on the market. You will have everything and anything you can think of available — from different price points, features, colors, weight and retail propaganda. They all seem to have a market and some have developed a niche. Variety and selection is what customers want and retailers know this, but how much is too much before it becomes overwhelming and maybe a bit unnecessary? I think we are getting close. A tent’s life is all in how you treat it, maintain it, store it and sometimes baby it. Sometimes if you do that right, you don’t need to forfeit your kid’s college money to have something that lasts. What I want to do is give you a brief overview of what’s out there and what features to look for and maybe, just maybe you can piece together a conclusion to a purchase.
Does size really matter?
Four-season
This might sound kind of like a no-brainer, but sizing can be misleading. First off, a threeperson tent is just that: For three people. There will be little to no extra room for gear or the family dog. If you need that extra room, think about a three-person tent for a two-person outing. That way you can have room to store your gear inside so it doesn’t get wet in case of a rain storm. You can spread out, and you can actually have elbow room and not feel like you got the bum end of a conjoined twin. If you are a tall individual, you might have to shop around a bit for a longer tent with added leg room. At 6 feet, 2 inches tall, even my feet or head rub the walls of many tents. When shopping, look at the dimensions of the footprint of the tent. You don’t want your feet or head pressed up against the sides as this can lead to rubbing in spots, which can lead to condensation on the inside of the tent and eventually leakage. In the winter, a two-person tent should be for two people, a three-person tent for three people, and so on. Do not worry about your gear in winter. Unless it has to stay warm (camera, GPS, medications, etc.) leave it outside, cover it with a tarp and call it good. The less dead space inside the tent the better. Dead, unused space is hard to heat, so a smaller tent is much easier to heat with body warmth. 6
PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
Are there tents for certain seasons?
There truly are tents that are better for one season than another. This is less important during the warmer months, but during the colder times of year you may need to think about a different tent. Warm season tents tend to have much more mesh for better ventilation. This is great on a muggy 60-degree night, but not on a night when the temperature drops to 10 degrees. If you’re camping in summer, get a three-season tent. In spring or fall, you can still get away with a three-season tent as long as you are not reaching too close to the winter season. Of course there is nothing saying that a three-season tent won’t work in January, but just keep in mind you may not be as warm. Winter tents have little to no mesh and much thicker fabric. Sure, this makes them heavier, but that also protects you from the elements and keeps in the heat. There are many other smaller features to a winter tent, but to keep it simple — if you are camping in winter, get a four-season tent. A four-season tent on the other had can be stifling during warmer months due to lack of ventilation.
Family tents
These massive shelters are built for car camping and are not designed to be carried long distances. They can have several smaller EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
rooms for added privacy and canopies built into them for rain and sun protection. Due to the fact they don’t get beat up in the backcountry, these tend to last quite some time, especially if you are gentle with them.
Bivy tents
These tiny structures are for solo camping or emergency shelters. The designs on these are close to a glorified sheet that goes around you, and some have one or two short poles to create a small dome over your head. These are very lightweight and considered a minimalist approach to backpacking. Many day hikers will carry a bivy, especially in winter, as an emergency shelter for an unplanned night in the woods.
Cost of a tent
The cost of a tent is based on the different features of the tent, and the brand name sewn onto the tag or stamped on the side. Often this name carries a higher price, even if the materials are not much different. The quality of the material, craftsmanship, type of material and size of the tent all play a part in the cost. Supply and demand also play a role. If a tent is new to the market and getting amazing reviews, you will pay a bit more as well. You can go to a variety superstore and buy a tent for $20, but will that suffice? It might for a weekend or maybe even a season if you Fall 2019
take care of it, but don’t expect the world from it. One of my first tents was a $19.95 special at Ames — do you remember Ames? It lasted a few seasons of intense use, but leaked like a sieve no matter how much sealer I put on the seams. Should you order a $500 tent online, thinking it will get you an entire backpacking career? You could, and it might. Now with that $500 you may be getting more than you need, or you may be paying for a name. $500 is not unheard of for a four-season tent. I have found that someplace in the middle is a nice area to wander. With that $150 to $200 tent you will usually get great customer service, a good brand name, solid materials and a warranty. You don’t get that for $20.
Buyer’s guide
Four-season
Shopping around the block
There is not a huge turnover in the tent market. Outfitters don’t sell a ton of tents, mainly because a tent is not a disposable piece of gear, it’s an investment. Watch for discounted items, discontinued items, holiday or weekly sales and overstock blowouts. These will get you a better tent at lower prices. Oh, and shop of-season too. Read reviews and do research before you jump into something and regret it later. Rent a tent before you buy one, if you can. Many outfitters have rental programs on current or similar tent models.
know, or will soon find out, the tent never goes back in the sack the same way twice. Once up, make sure there are no factory defects, rips, stains, etc. If there are, ask for a discount or grab another and start over. Once the tent is up, seal all of the seams. Buy seam sealer right at the outfitters. Some companies say you don’t need to, but honestly when it’s already set up, it takes hardly any time at all. It doesn’t add to the weight, so why wait. The easiest to apply has a sponge applicator. There is a seam along the top of the tub of the tent, and some that might run up the sides and around the windows. Hit all of these. The tent also comes with a rain fly that goes over the body of the tent, so seal that along the seams, then double check that the tub on the tent is completely covered. I always seam seal both sides of all seams. Also, make sure you have a repair kit with you. Most tents come with them, so don’t just throw them aside and assume that it’s new and won’t break. The poles are the most important. An over-sleeve and duck tape for a temporary fix doesn’t weigh anything in the grand scheme of inconvenience.
After you buy your tent
Post new-tent purchase, you need to do a couple of things before you head out. First off, set it up to make sure all of the parts are in the package and that you know how to do it. Manufacturers make mistakes too and sometimes forget a vital piece, like a pole. Trust me, it happens. Pieces can also get lost at the outfitters. An outfitter will set up a tent for you in the shop and at times they misplace a part because, as you
Target & Hunting Accessories * Archery Instruction Hoyt, Martin, Elite, BowTech, Diamond and Obsession Bows. Easton, Beman, Gold Tip and Victory arrows and bolts. Fishing Bait and Tackle
Open Tuesday-Saturday 3478 State Route 3, Saranac, NY 12981 518-293-1600 Email: adirondackarchery@earthlink.net Web: adirondackarchery.net
Fall 2019
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
7
Camping
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
ike many mountain goers have come to realize, especially if they are on the short end of the stick, there are proper rules and camping etiquette practices that everyone should — and needs to — follow. Camping is all about getting out there, away from the stressors of work, life, your house, the car that won’t start, or maybe something more personal (something I like to call a “mental timeout.” The great outdoors is the perfect spot for this. Nine out of 10 dentists say it’s better than having teeth pulled — now that’s something! Think of these rules for the woods as a way to not only respect others and their piece of getting away, but as a way to help you protect the environment that we all cherish so much. Many of these rules should be common sense. Any way you look at it, it’s important to understand them before you pack the car and head out on the road.
1. Leave no trace
Big Foot has been practicing this for decades. It is the most important camping etiquette practice you need to understand, and it’s not only for campers, but could also be etiquette for everyday practice. See www.lnt.org for more details. In a quick note, the idea is if you carried it in, be sure to carry it out, and make where you were look like you have never been there.
2. Lighten up
This is a good one for you RV campers out there, but even in the backcountry excessive lights can be distracting depending on how close you are to others and if you are sharing a lean-to. Use dim when you can and try to remember if you are having a conversation with someone, your light might be on.
3. Dog gone It
While you love your dog and your dog is the most awesome dog ever to have graced the forest, keep in mind your dog can be extremely irritating to other campers. Sometimes other campers are afraid of dogs or have anxiety around them. If your dog is barking constantly, you’re ruining the experience of the other campers. Always keep them leashed, it only take a second for a pooch to run off. Most importantly, make sure you’re cleaning up after your dog, just like you hopefully do at home. Just imagine stepping in some dog poo at camp, and not having a decent means to clean it off.
4. Personal space
Don’t cut through someone’s campsite just because it might save you a couple seconds to the privy. You wouldn’t cut a street corner through someone’s living room to get to a Stewart’s Shop. Maybe you would, but you 8
PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
L
Campground etiquette 101
shouldn’t. Think of someone else’s campsite as their temporary private property even though it is on public land, and respect their space during their stay. If you absolutely need to enter someone’s campsite — an errant Frisbee for example — just ask, as you would on anyone’s property.
5. Keep it down
I guess in the backcountry there really is no quiet hours, in so many terms, but respect the quiet time of others. You never know who is in bed; resting, maybe getting sleep for a long hike in the morning, so try to keep it to a dull roar. For most campgrounds, quiet hours are between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. Use this as a good time to settle down. It’s amazing how far noise and voices travel, especially over water. Also, just because you are in your tent doesn’t mean they can’t hear you or what you are doing (wink, wink).
6. Fire safety
If fires are allowed where you are staying, be conscious of your fire and what you are doing with it. Don’t burn garbage, other than maybe a little paper to get it going. Never leave it unattended, you wouldn’t want to be the cause of a wildland fire would you? Don’t make it too big. Overhead branches are what’s known as ladder fuels and can catch easily. Don’t cut down wood, use only dead and downed wood. Wet wood doesn’t burn anyhow. Never go to bed with the fire still burning, this is still technically unattended. Some areas do not allow fires, so know the rules where you are. Do not burn food scrapes. This is a bear attractant and also considered garbage. EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
7. Scent controls
This is more along the lines of black bear control. Bears have a keen sense of smell and they love to eat and harass campers. Use a bear canister, and use it correctly even if the area does not require them. Place the canister on the ground in a divot or behind a stump, 150 feet from camp. Don’t hang; this only gives the bear a handle to carry it off. Make sure it is securely closed. If you use a bear bag (where allowed) make sure you know how to properly hang one. Bears can climb trees. Cook away from your sleeping area and clean up better than you found it. Cook early before bears go into food patrol status. Scented items like deodorant, toiletries and other items are also attractants and should be kept with food.
8. Lean-tos
A lean-to is designed kind of like a hostel, in that it can be occupied until it is full to capacity. You cannot reserve a lean-to or any other site on state land and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. Don’t set up a tent near a lean-to or in one.
9. Camp locations
Do not camp within 150 to 200 feet of a trail or water source unless it is a designated site. No camping over 3,500 feet in elevation unless it is in a designated location, and no camping over 4,000 feet in elevation.
10. Waste a minute
If you’re camping area has a privy or thunderbox, use it but don’t throw trash down it. If you need to use a bush, go 150-200 feet away from any trail, campsite or water source. Bury it a foot in the ground, cover it up and make it look as though you were never there. Fall 2019
Hiking challenges
CHALLenGe tRACKinG MADe eAsY A
pair of local women have started a new business that is sure to help scratch that hiking itch. Lynne Murphy and Jennifer Moore, co-owners of peak quest, are printing scratch-off cards so hikers can commemorate their accomplishments. They’ve also developed a new hiking challenge they hope will bridge Tupper Lake, Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. The new Tri-Lakes Trifecta requires hikers to complete each of the villages’ hiking challenges: The Tupper Lake Triad, the Saranac Lake 6ers and the Lake Placid 9er. People who do all three challenges can register as a Trifecta finisher and earn a challenge medal, while $1 from each registrant will go to supporting trail maintenance in the Tri-Lakes. “We’ve been hiking together for over 10 years, and over the course of all these years of hiking in the High Peaks and locally, we always were talking about how we could keep track of all our hiking,” Moore said. “For a while we were buying the patches, but what do you do with them? And in all of our conversations on the trails, we came up with this.” “(It’s) something lightweight that we could take to the top, keep in our pack and have the satisfaction of scratching it off,” Murphy said. “It really is satisfying to scratch it off. It’s just a fun way to come up with something pretty that can be kept and framed for later, because it’s a lot of work to do these challenges.” The scratch-off cards are designed by Murphy and Moore, then a graphic artist cleans it up and sends them to the printer in Pennsylvania. The whole process is done within the U.S. Murphy and Moore also came up with the
PHOTO BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE
By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
idea for the new challenge since the three TriLakes challenges are relatively small, but also to get people from Tupper Lake to hike in Lake Placid and Saranac Lake and vice versa. “We thought about doing a card for Saranac Lake, a card for Tupper and a card for Placid, but there’s not enough for each one,” Murphy said. “So then we thought, ‘People are always looking for another challenge, so let’s put it together and make another challenge called the Trifecta.’ “We never would have gone to Tupper Lake to hike if it wasn’t for the challenge. We are trying to raise awareness and bring the three communities together — we feel it’s important to cross our people.” In addition to the Trifecta, peak quest has
also made up cards for the High Peaks, the Fire Tower Challenge and the Lake George 12ster. Cards are also in the works for a statewide road trip, the winter High Peaks and a sort of scavenger hunt for kids to complete. Murphy and Moore each said they’re still working on several of the challenges themselves, but hope that the cards — especially the fire tower, Trifecta and 12ster cards — will help lessen the load on the High Peaks. The cards are available at www.peakquest.org, or in more than 20 outlets around the Adirondacks, including locally at The Wild Center, the Hotel Saranac, Woods and Waters, Sparkle in Lake Placid and Bear Essentials in both Saranac Lake and Lake Placid.
quarters for Your Head
W WINTER I N T E R FFUN! UN! • S kki, i, S n o w b o a rrdd , X --CC EEqq u iipp m eenn t • Clo C lo th th in in g & A ccesso cce sso ries rie s • S ki k i & S n o w b o a rd rd R en e n ta ta ls: ls: D a ily ily o r S ea e a so so n a l • S ki k i & S n o w b o a rd rd Lea L e a ses se s
FFUU LL L L S EERR V IICE C E R EEPA P A IR IR S H O P SKI -nSNOWBOARD
Fall 2019
AIRPO RT PLAZA 770 Rt.3 ,PLATTS BURG H •(5 18) 5 6 1 -5 5 3 9 w w w.Vikin g S p or ts.com •M on -S a t10-6 p m •S u n 12-5 p m
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
9
FIRE TOWERS STAND
adirondack fire towers
THE TEST OF TIME
F
By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
History
The Adirondacks were a very different place 120 years ago. As clear-cuts and railroad lines crisscrossed the landscape, sparks from those train engines — and other sources as well — led to some astoundingly large forest fires. According to the state Department of Environmental Conservation, in 1903 more than 460,000 acres of wildlands were burned, just within the Adirondack and Catskill Forest Preserves. 1908 was another bad fire year, with another few hundred thousand acres burned, 10
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
PHOTOS BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE
or hikers and snowshoers in the Adirondacks, it’s hard to imagine a park with no fire towers. But 30 years ago, the state planned to remove most of the metal towers that adorn Adirondack peaks. They had been out of use, and many were dangerous and, literally, in danger of falling down. But a legal workaround and groups of dedicated citizens did the impossible and managed to save most of the remaining fire towers, even as the state discontinued their use and funding.
Fall 2019
adirondack fire towers
Adirondack fire towers Mountain Elevation County Built Open Adams ..........................3,584 .............Essex .....................1917 ...............Yes Arab..............................2,545 .............St. Lawrence..........1918 ...............Yes Azure ............................2,518 .............Franklin.................1918 ...............Yes Bald (Rondaxe).............2,350 .............Herkimer...............1917 ...............Yes Belfry............................1,820 .............Essex .....................1917 ...............Yes Black.............................2,646 .............Washington ..........1918 ...............No Blue..............................3,759 .............Hamilton...............1917 ...............Yes Cathedral Rock..............1,700 .............St. Lawrence..........1919 ...............Yes Goodnow......................2,685 .............Essex .....................1922 ...............Yes Gore..............................3,583 .............Warren ..................1918 ...............No Hadley ..........................2,675 .............Saratoga ...............1917 ...............Yes Hurricane......................3,694 .............Essex .....................1919 ...............Yes Kane .............................2,180 .............Fulton ...................1925 ...............Yes Loon Lake .....................3,279 .............Franklin.................1917 ...............No Lyon..............................3,830 .............Clinton ..................1917 ...............Yes Owls Head ....................2,780 .............Hamilton...............1919 ...............Yes Pillsbury .......................3,597 .............Hamilton...............1924 ...............Yes Poke-O-Moonshine.......2,170 .............Essex .....................1917 ...............Yes Snowy ..........................3,899 .............Hamilton...............1917 ...............Yes Spruce ..........................2,005 .............Saratoga ...............1928 ...............Yes Stillwater......................2,264 .............Herkimer...............1919 ...............Yes St. Regis........................2,882 .............Franklin.................1918 ...............Yes Vanderwhacker ............3,386 .............Essex .....................1918 ...............Yes Wakely..........................3,744 .............Hamilton...............1916 ...............Yes Woodhull......................2,362 .............Hamilton...............1916 ...............Yes
the fire towers on mount adams (above) and Loon Lake (below) were built in 1917.
through this documentation, you can see how the number of fires and acreage goes down over time. “[By the 1960s] we got so good at our job, you actually saw the fire towers be abandoned and the fire tower observer’s job eventually disappearing.” The state erected more than 100 towers across New York, with the highest concentrations in the Adirondack and Catskill parks. There were 19 towers in the Catskill region and 57 in the Adirondacks. Some of the early towers were wooden platforms, open to the weather. Those quickly gave way to the metal fire towers we still see today. With the addition of paid fire spotters, complete with phones to alert rangers more quickly, the advent of large fires in the Forest Preserve dropped off quickly. The DEC says that by 2002 — more than a decade after the last tower was decommissioned — the total area Continued on page 12
including the hamlet of Long Lake West, which included the burning of numerous train cars, a train station and a large hotel. Much of the hamlet had to be evacuated by train. The next year, the DEC — which at that time was still a number of small departments; it wouldn’t become the Conservation Commission until 1911 — enacted changes designed to detect fires more quickly. According to a 2017 North Country Public Radio interview with Forest Ranger Scott van Laer, the addition and success of fire towers eventually led to fire observers working themselves out of a job. “What they had in place then was called fire wardens, and they essentially designated people in towns and hamlets that they thought would function well to supervise putting out fires,” vanLaer said. “But they weren’t paid. They were volunteers and were only paid when they were fighting a fire. “After 1908, it became clear — after hundreds of thousands of acres burned and the entire hamlet of Long lake West burned — that it didn’t work. So the act of 1909 not only created what we know as the forest rangers, but it created the funds for the prevention system. This is when all those fire towers started to go up, and you saw for the next several decades this come into place. And it was highly successful. If you go Fall 2019
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
11
adirondack fire towers
Long and short of it There are several towerson privately owned land or otherwise inaccessible to the public. Of the towers that are accessible, here are the highest, shortest, longest and tallest: Highest summit: Snowy Mountain, 3,899 feet Lowest summit: Cathedral Rock, 1,700 feet Highest elevation gain: Snowy Mountain, 2,106 feet Lowest elevation gain: Belfry Mountain, 120 feet Longest trail: Woodhull Mountain, 7.6 miles Shortest trail: Belfry Mountain, 0.4 miles Tallest tower: Spruce Mountain, 73 feet Shortest tower: Twelve towers clock in at 35 feet plan says. But in 2014, a 0.5-acre parcel at the summit of the mountain was reclassified to historic, allowing the state to retain the tower without violating the APSLMP. This is the same tack that was taken with a number of other towers, including on Hurricane Mountain. Of the 57 towers originally within the Adirondacks, 34 still remain. Twenty are on Forest Preserve lands while the other 14 are on private or municipal lands.
PHOTOS BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE
The draw
Hikers celebrate poke-o-moonshine’s 100th birthday in 2017.
Continued from page 11
burned by wildfire was just 2,062 acres. And that was across the entire state, not just within the Blue Line.
Removal, APA classifications
The DEC began to phase out fire spotters in earnest in the 1980s, and by 1990 all fire towers were closed. But they were still there, in the woods, and often in places where they were no longer legally allowed to be. Some of the state Adirondack Park Agency land classifications say that any man-made structure is not allowed, and fire towers are definitely made by man. This resulted in the state planning on dismantling and removing many of the towers. However, the DEC and APA, prodded by interested members of the public, began to reclassify small areas under the towers as historic, which allows the towers to stay. For instance, the tower atop St. Regis Mountain is within the St. Regis Canoe Area. Managed essentially as a wilderness area, the tower did not conform with the Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan. But a change in classification allowed the tower to stay, and it was recently reopened to the public after several years of restoration work. “The St. Regis Fire Tower does not currently meet the criteria of an essential use for the Department of Environmental Conservation and its removal should therefore either occur within three years from the adoption of this Unit Management Plan or other alternatives based on recommendations identified in the proposed comprehensive study of fire towers within the Adirondack Park,” the canoe area unit management 12
Laurie Rankin, who is president of the New York chapter of the international Forest Fire Lookout Association, said fire towers have been appealing since they were installed, mainly because they were staffed by people from the community, and communities took pride in their towers. “I think the appeal of fire towers is varied, but can all be placed under the heading ‘community.’ Historically, the fire towers were placed on mountaintops to protect the surrounding communities from devastating fires,” Rankin said. “We seem far removed from them now, but in the early 1900s fires destroyed entire communities, businesses and residences and thousands of acres of working forest. The towers stopped that devastation. “Also within communities, the fire towers were always a destination for family picnics. People walked, rode horse and wagons to them and more to enjoy family time in the shadow of these protecting structures and to visit with and learn from the observers in the fire towers. During the 1970s and 1980s when DEC policies and funding changed, these important community icons were left abandoned. But the local communities put time, energy and monies into restoring them in the 1990s and still do today. Thus today, the third and fourth generation of a family from a local community can still help out, still have a picnic, and still enjoy the views!”
Hiking challenge
The Adirondack Mountain Club’s Glens Falls-Saratoga Chapter began what is likely the second (after the 46ers) Adirondack hiking challenge when it established the Fire Tower Challenge in 2001. That year, the Adirondack Mountain Club published “Views from on High,” a guidebook to 30 fire towers in the Adirondacks and Catskills. To complete the challenge, a hiker must climb all five Catskill towers along with 18 of the 25 Adirondack fire towers. Once the mountains are climbed, hikers can submit a form and earn a patch.
How to help
Almost every fire tower now has a “friends” group associated with it, many of which have websites and Facebook pages. The DEC also provides guidance on its website on how to begin the restoration process.
Lighting the towers
Several of the Adirondack towers were visible after dark on Saturday, Aug. 31 for the sixth annual Lighting of the New York State Towers. This event started in the Catskills and has spread, and this year will be the third that the St. Regis tower will be lit up. The Hurricane and Stillwater towers have also participated in the past.
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Fall 2019
F r o n t - ro w s e at t o t h e H i g h Pea ks
the view from the cab of the mount adams fire tower includes, from left, the macintyre range, mount Colden and mount marcy, with Cliff mountain in the foreground.
M
By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
ount Adams is only a few hundred feet shy of being a High Peak, and although the summit of the mountain is completely treed, climbing a few steps up the fire tower offers views of the High Peaks that are hard to get without actually tackling one of the 46. Situated near Tahawus, the old ghost town near Newcomb, Mount Adams is one of the more difficult of the Adirondack fire towers. It’s not the longest or the highest, but with an unrelenting climb for more than half the hike, it’s up there. The trailhead is located just past the old Blast Furnace, which has been stabilized by the Open Space Institute, which owns several hundred acres of land in the area. In addition to Mount Adams, the trailhead is also the access point for Allen Mountain, a trailless High Peak. Setting out, there is a fork in the trail just a few hundred feet from the trailhead, where it meets the Hudson River. Hang a right and make your way to the suspended cable bridge over the Hudson, which would have been easy enough to just walk across in mid-August. But I imagine winter and early spring hikers would have a hard time crossing the river without the bridge. The trail is flat and easy for the first mile, and while there were numerous mud pits, most were still firm enough to walk right through without even getting dirty. That being said, Leave No Trace principles call for hikers to walk through the mud, whether your boots will get dirty or not. At just shy of a half-mile, the trail hangs a left near Lake Jimmy. There used to be a large
Fall 2019
mount adams aCtiVity: Hiking distanCe: 3.2 miles, round-trip diFFiCuLty: Hard direCtions: From newcomb, take state Route 28n toward Minerva and turn left onto the Blue Ridge Road at 1.7 miles. take the Blue Ridge Road to a left onto essex County 25/tahawus Road and then turn left again at 6.1 miles to stay on Route 25. the Blast Furnace is located 1.7 miles farther on, and the trailhead is on the right at 1.8 miles, just past the furnace.
floating log bridge that took hikers across the lake, but it was damaged and the trail has been rerouted around the lake. Much of the bridge is still there, but it only spans about halfway across the lake. As the trail rounds the lake, there’s a small bridge over the lake outlet and then dozens of planks to walk on as the area is somewhat wet. Again, in mid-August it wasn’t bad, but in spring or a wet year, the bog bridges would be quite welcome. Just after the 1-mile mark, the cabins of the fire observers come into view. A print-out in one of the cabins — the one that’s not actively falling down — said it was in rough shape even more 50 years ago. “Even in 1967 when I spent the summer climbing her, that cabin was in serious disrepair,” the printed email, from Rick LaCourse, says. “I never spent a single night on the mountain, but climbed it each morning and reEMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
PHOTO BY JUSTIN A. LEVINE
adirondack fire towers
turned home each evening. Most of the other memories are related to the quiet loneliness of each day in the tower with a rare visitor.” At the cabins, the trail makes a hard right, and the trail up Mount Adams begins on the left about 100 yards later. Having followed yellow state Department of Environmental Conservation trail markers up to this point, the Mount Adams trail has red discs. This junction was surprisingly hard to notice. I walked right past it the first time, and then again when I realized my error and turned around. There’s a small sign indicating that it goes up Mount Adams, but the sign was several feet off the main trail and partially hidden by leaves. I ended up tacking on an extra mile due to missing the Adams trail the first time. Hanging a left onto the mountain trail, it begins to climb and doesn’t stop until the summit ridge is reached. Moving through the woods, there were woodpeckers and other birds flying around. It was quiet and peaceful, as well as rocky. The trail requires a bit of hands and feet scrambling in a couple of spots, but it’s not technical. After 1.35 miles on the red trail, the tower pops up out of nowhere. The summit and ridge are completely treed-in, meaning the only view to be had requires a trip up the tower. After climbing a couple of flights of stairs, the High Peaks begin to stretch out in all directions. The tower was restored after Hurricane Irene, and includes a great map table that makes it easy to pick out landmarks like Mount Marcy and Mount Colden. The 360degree views from the tower are hard to beat. 13
5 trips
saint re gis C anoe area
polliwog pond
PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
T
By SPENCER MORRISSEY he Saint Regis Canoe Area is one of only a couple designated canoe areas in New York. Located in Franklin County, it spans three towns in its more than 18,400-acre mass. The Saint Regis Canoe Area includes St. Regis Mountain, St. Regis Pond, Long Pond, sections of the east and west branches of the St. Regis River and 56 other water bodies. Of course not all is perfect for paddling or even feasible, but much of it is. With all that to choose from, I have selected five outstanding locations for easy access and short paddling excursions for cooler temperatures and photographing the changing leaves.
Polliwog Pond
Little Clear Pond
aCtiVity: Paddling diFFiCuLty: easy, but can get a bit breezy distanCe: Roadside perks: one of my favorite Adirondack Ponds, you will see why; it’s just a gorgeous autumn destination. oBstaCLes: the parking is a bit limited, just be sure to get off the roadside as much as you can and don’t park in the campsites as they may be needed by campers. quote: “Polliwog Pond is one of the deeper ponds in the area reaching up to 70 feet in some areas. it is well known for being a great place for trout fishing. Polliwog Pond is also a great place to swim from the shoreline with its sandy white beaches. Polliwog Pond is made up of several bays, which are fun to explore. it is common to see common loons nesting or swimming.” — www.SaranacLake.com direCtions: From the intersection of state Route 3 and Route 86 in saranac Lake follow Route 86 toward Paul smiths. Continue for 5 miles to Route 186 on the left. Follow Route 186 for 4 miles to its end at Route 30. Follow Route 30 toward tupper Lake for around 5.5 miles to Floodwood Road on the right. Follow Floodwood Road for 1.3 miles to Polliwog Pond on the left.
aCtiVity: Paddling diFFiCuLty: easy, but can get a bit gusty distanCe: Roadside perks: Just as lovely as Little Green Pond on the other side of the road, but a bigger destination with much more shoreline. Many loons inhabit this pond. oBstaCLes: nothing out of the ordinary, but safety measures should always be taken when venturing out onto any waterbody. quote: “the pond has special fishing regulations because it is used by the nearby Fish Hatchery. there is no camping. there is a popular canoe carry leading from the north end of Little Clear to st. Regis Pond. Loons and bald eagles are drawn to the pond by the hatchery's fish.” — www.LocalWiki.org direCtions: From the intersection of state Route 3 and Route 86 in saranac Lake follow Route 86 toward Paul smiths. Continue for 5 miles to Route 186 on the left. Follow Route 186 for 4 miles to its end at Route 30. Follow Route 30 toward tupper Lake for just under 3 miles to Fish Hatchery Road on the right. Follow Fish Hatchery Road for 0.5 miles to the entrance to boat launch area. Follow this dirt road over the railroad tracks and straight to a Y-intersection. take a right at the Y-intersection to the boat launch site which will be on the right.
14
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Fall 2019
5 trips
Lower Saint Regis Lake aCtiVity: Paddling diFFiCuLty: easy, well-sheltered distanCe: Roadside perks: this is the main access to the saint Regis Lakes and spitfire Lake. staying in the outlet is worth the trip, but of course feel free to venture as far as you feel comfortable. oBstaCLes: nothing out of the ordinary, but safety measures should always be taken when venturing out onto any waterbody. quote: “742-acre (3.00 km2) Upper st. Regis Lake is a part of the st. Regis River in the Adirondacks in northern new York state. Along with Lower st. Regis Lake and spitfire Lake, it became famous in the late 19th century as a summer playground of America's power elite, drawn to the area by its scenic beauty and by the rustic charms.” — www.Andyarthur.org direCtions: From the intersection of state Route 3 and Route 86 in saranac Lake follow Route 86 toward Paul smiths. Continue on Route 86 to Paul smiths where it ends at Route 30. take a right onto Route 30 and an immediate left onto Keese Mill Road. Continue for 2.75 miles to the parking for Black Pond. the launch is directly across the road off a grassy shore.
Green Pond aCtiVity: Paddling diFFiCuLty: easy, well-sheltered distanCe: easy 0.1-mile portage perks: not too many people venture here, even during peak paddling season, enjoy this lovely location close to the road. oBstaCLes: the parking is a bit limited, just be sure to get off the roadside as much as you can. quote: “Fishermen will find a variety of fish including bullhead, splake, brook trout, brown trout, sucker and rainbow trout here. Whether you’re spinning, fly fishing or baitcasting, your chances of getting a bite here are good. so grab your favorite fly fishing rod and reel, and head out to Green Pond.” — www.HookandBullet.com direCtions: From the intersection of state Route 3 and Route 86 in saranac Lake follow Route 86 toward Paul smiths. Continue for 5 miles to Route 186 on the left. Follow Route 186 for 4 miles to its end at Route 30. Follow Route 30 toward tupper Lake for just under 6.3 miles to the launch on the right, across the road from Frog Lane. there is a small sign here, a bit obscure to see.
Little green pond
Little Green Pond aCtiVity: Paddling diFFiCuLty: easy, well protected from winds distanCe: Roadside perks: Quiet and quaint, this small round pond will be a quiet retreat. oBstaCLes: nothing out of the ordinary, but safety measures should always be taken when venturing out onto any waterbody. quote: “one of two ponds in the canoe area that do not require a carry to reach; start of the traditional seven Carries.” — www.LocalWiki.org direCtions: From the intersection of state Route 3 and Route 86 in saranac Lake follow Route 86 toward Paul smiths. Continue for 5 miles to Route 186 on the left. Follow Route 186 for 4 miles to its end at Route 30. Follow Route 30 toward tupper Lake for just under 3 miles to Fish Hatchery Road on the right. Follow Fish Hatchery Road for 0.5 miles to the entrance to boat launch area. Follow this dirt road over the railroad tracks and straight to a Y-intersection. take a right at the Y-intersection to the boat launch site which will be on the left.
Lower saint regis Lake Fall 2019
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
15
L o n g L ak e ser ves up s u r f an d t u r f
PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
adventure
moose island 16
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Fall 2019
adventure
W
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
e arrived at the state boat launch site in the Hamlet of Long Lake with kayaks strapped to the roof, gear at the ready and ripping to get on the water. With safety gear and day-hiking gear packed into the dry compartments and strapped to the hull we set off with a modest push against the shore. One can see from any map or even from the roads through Long Lake, that the lake itself has a well-deserved name. The lake is simply a widening of the Raquette River and flows north through town with its widest swath being right around 1 mile. We were heading south of town where the waters don’t quite reach that width. We pushed off from shore to find ourselves sharing the lake with several motorboats and other paddlers whose small shapes dotted the horizon to the north. We swung south away from the launch area and proceeded to make decent headway right into the wind. Not only did we have the wind in our face, but the current as well. This was going to be a workout. While the current wasn’t very noticeable, it was still there. We quickly passed by the town beach as if we were a local attraction to the many swimming at the docks, then finally under the stater Route 30 bridge. Helm’s Aero Service was coming quickly up on the rear, ready for a flawless take-off. We yielded. We decided with the numerous power boats on the water that we should hang a bit closer to shore. We were in no rush, and had all day if needed. It wasn’t long before we attracted the attention of a flock of ducks, young and old, a family I’m sure. They swam by the bow of our boats as if we were nothing more than a log floating freely to an undesignated shore. We could hear them talking, ever so lightly, as if rumoring about us; never once startled by our presence. They only seemed to find some interest in Emily and her boat. Deerland Road held a slight hum in our ears as passing motorists zoomed by while the shadow of Owl’s Head Mountain loomed to our right. We had now been cramped in our kayaks Fall 2019
Buttermilk Falls for some time. I couldn’t likely feel my right foot at this point, and my “behind” would soon fall to the same fate. Looking at the map Moose Island was only about a half-mile away, and we planned to use that as our docking point to get the blood flowing again. We couldn’t get there fast enough, but even under my full paddle I could not beat Kole to the island as he was also feeling the discomfort of his seat. To our pleasure, the island was a perfect place to stretch our legs and get a snack. I stepped out onto a leg that been anaesthetized from being in one position for so long and almost instantly fell to the shore with those darn “skin needles” running through my foot. Moose Island wasn’t too far from our origiLong Lake nally planned landing area, and we quickly arrived at the shore near those camps. Pulling our kayaks to shore, we unloaded them of our day packs, changed into our hiking boots, secured the boats to a nearby tree that was too big to uproot, and started our hike along what is known as the seven-bridges portage. The portage trail is generally hit or miss as far as condition, but on this day we found it to be in decent shape. The dry weather was EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
surely the cure to the bogs sometimes created. A bit of mud here and there, but then again we weren’t carrying boats just hiking to Buttermilk Falls. Never at any time was it hard to locate, but then again, just keeping the Raquette River to our right, was enough to keep anyone with navigational challenges on the straight and narrow. We quickly came to the base of Buttermilk Falls, which we could hear before we actually saw it. Of course there were many people here, who took the normal walk of a tenth-of-a-mile from North Point Road, but I have never been known to do much the “normal” way, my writing can be evidence of that. We hung around the falls for a while, snacking on random this and thats, but mostly people watching, which can be fun in a tourist town. The about-face back to the boats, and eventually back to the boat launch in Long Lake was quite uneventful. Nearly the polar opposite of the trip in. Simply put, it was just more of just going through the motions to get back to the launch. Well, at least as much motion as my sleeping legs would allow, but surely nothing a soft serve with rainbow sprinkles 17
PL AYING THE
adirondack toponyms
NAME GA ME
Cranberry Lake
S
Another example of this type of naming is “Deadwater Pond,” found in Essex County.
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
aint Lawrence County is rather massive, in size, but only a portion of it resides in the Adirondack Park, which is where my research is focused. In this edition, I want to share with you some of the findings of this area in regards to names found on a topographical map, also known as a toponym. I will not subject you to the obvious like Bear, Burnt, Buck, Twin, Cat and other obvious namesakes which typically hold true to their obvious historical backgrounds, but rather, in names with a bit more of a past or wonderment.
State Ridge
This was a tough one, and at this point I have no real definitive answer on the naming of this land feature. There are a three different hypotheses for this one: 1. It runs parallel to state Route 3 (this is not accurate as it was named on the 1921 USGS map well before Route 3 or any other state route existed in the area. 2. It is on the border with state land to the W or at the time was a boundary with state land, or in some other way related to state lands. 3. “State” is used in reference to look. It is a “stately ridge,” but over time it just became State Ridge as it is seen now. If you have any leads on this feel free to let me know.
Cranberry Lake
The lake itself, while being the third largest fully within the park, is not a natural lake. In the 1850s, a bill was passed by state Legislature declaring that the Oswegatchie River was a public highway and with that it allowed for improvements for commercial purposes. This allowed power companies to build a dam that created the lake you see today. The dam was completed in 1867, creating wider flow on the Oswegatchie River. The name “Cranberry” came from the floating bogs of wild cranberries that once lined the shore.
Dead Creek Flow
This flow is part of Cranberry Lake, southeast of Wanakena. You can let your mind go wild with this one, but it is actually quite simple as far as the naming is concerned. 18
PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
Southeast St. Lawrence County edition
Tunkethandle Hill
tunkethandle Hill
Not much on this one either, but according to Harder and Smallman in “Claims to Name: Toponyms of St. Lawrence County,” it possibly means “Devil’s Elbow,” which is possibly a reference to an elbow bend in the Grasse River directly north. It’s a fun name, nonetheless.
Rampart Mountain
Whenever you see the word “dead” in a toponym, especially when it is also attached to a water body, it typically refers to the lack of current and not the fish life (or a horrific event). EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
A rampart, in reference to this mountain comes down to the massive rock cliffs that form what might be seen as a fort or castle, as if to fortify something. Also, popularly heard in the National Anthem, O’er the ramparts we watched, were so gallantly streaming …” Fall 2019
recommended reading
DeeP DiVe into tHe WoRLD oF BeAVeRs eager: the surprising, secret Life of Beavers and why they matter autHor: Ben Goldfarb pages: 304 pages CopyrigHt: 2018 puBLisHer: Chelsea Green Publishing
B
By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
eavers are an almost ubiquitous sight within the Blue Line. There are few river paddles that don’t take one over or around a beaver dam, and the large stick and earth lodges can be seen on hundreds of Adirondack waterways. But it wasn’t always this way, as a book by Ben Goldfarb details. According to Goldfarb’s Eager: The surprising, secret life of beavers and why they matter, people should pay closer attention to the large rodents. “Although the evolutionary paths of rodents and primates forked more than eighty million years ago, don’t let our divergent lineages fool you: Beavers are among our closest ecological and technical kin,” Goldfarb writes. “Homo sapiens and Castor canadensis are both wildly creative tool users who settle near water, share a fondness for elaborate infrastructure, and favor fertile valley bottoms carved by low-gradient rivers. “... Neither beavers nor people are content to leave it at that. Instead we’re proactive, relentlessly driven to rearrange our environments to maximize its provision off food and shelter ... If humans are the world’s most influential mammals, beavers have a fair claim at second place.” The Adirondacks are mentioned throughout the book, even though Goldfarb focused his research in other places. Beaver behavior, it turns out, is pretty consistent regardless of where the animals live. Before making the case for beavers to be more revered, Goldfarb offers history lessons on native American’s relationship with the animals. But Eager is not just for people who are really into beavers. Goldfarb’s narrative and the people he interviews offer more than just a story about rodents. From crazy facts that are sure to come out during a canoe trip (“Thrifty as ever, they also practice caecotrophy, eating their puddinglike excretions to extract every last iota of nutrition; by the time their feces reemerge a day later, they’re nearly sawdust.”) to history (“And in New York’s Adirondacks, wrote Harry Radford, ‘it is evident that every lake and pond was occupied, and every river, brook, and rill, from the largest to the most insignificant, thickly peopled with these industrious and prolific animals.’”), Eager offers a little something for the history buff, the wildlife viewer and the casual paddler. Goldfarb spent a lot of time with people working on restoring beavers to their historic habitat. These folks recognize that not every waterway can be re-beavered, but look for places where the animals can make a positive impact. Although many of the reasons people want to release beavers — water storage, flood mitigation, fish, bird, plant and wildlife habitat — are essentially selfish, this is a rare instance where people and nature may each benefit with no real downside to either the ecosystem or society. While Goldfarb did not focus on the Adirondacks, this area was once Fall 2019
similar to the rest of the country. Trappers and loss of habitat had killed off most beavers, but in the early 1900s, the state of New York made efforts to reintroduce the animals. Those efforts are now being followed by Goldfarb’s interviewees across North America. “The former Old Forge Fish Hatchery (also called the Fulton Chain Fish Hatchery) was located in the Hamlet of Old Forge at the turn .of the century, and served as the winter haven for seven beavers purchased by the state from the Canadian Exhibit at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in st. Louis in 1904,” the state Department of Environmental Conservation says in its unit management plan for the Fulton Chain Wild Forest in the southwestern Adirondacks. “In April of 1905, two beavers were taken in a zinc-lined crate from Old Forge to Inlet by rowboat. From Inlet, they were carried to a small Moose River tributary named Sumner Stream and released. “The next year, the state contracted with the Secretary of the Interior for the purchase of 25 live beavers to be captured and shipped from Yellowstone National Park. Excepting four animals that were lost to the rigors of the cross-country trip, these beavers were released to the wild. It was from the thirty beavers released between 1901 and 1907 by the State and by private individuals that the present large population of beavers in the Adirondacks has developed.” Goldfarb’s Eager is not only information, but eminently readable as well. It’s always a thrill to see or hear a beaver tail slap while out paddling, but I — and many other Adirondackers — take the presence of beavers for granted. Goldfarb details just how mistaken that view is, especially when compared with other parts of the country. With subject matter that all residents and visitors to the Adirondacks have some familiarity with, combined with easy reading, fun facts and fascinating history, Eager should make its way to the bookshelves of everyone who loves the Adirondacks, paddling or wildlife.
Want to Embark?
Subscribe 4 issues per year
1 year $10.00
2 years $20.00
Name: Address: City/State/Zip: Phone#: mail to: Embark, P.O. Box 318 Saranac Lake, NY 12983 phone #: 518-891-2600 email: circulation@adirondackdailyenterprise.com
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
19
Feeder watch
CoMMon ReDPoLL: A FReQUent VisitoR
O
By JUSTIN A. LEVINE
ne notably absent species in the TriLakes during last year’s annual Audubon Christmas Bird Count was the common redpoll, and although none were seen during the concerted effort, I was fortunate enough to see several at my feeder in Vermontville. Mostly our bird feeder is host to black-capped chickadees and redbreasted nuthatches, but we occasionally get blue and gray jays, downy woodpeckers, evening grossbeaks and recently, redpolls. Redpolls are tiny little things, not much larger than the chickadees. But their somewhat dull plumage is accentuated by a bright red skull cap at the front of their head. Some of the ones we’ve seen also have a reddish chest. According to the Audubon Society, the Adirondacks are in the far southern portion of the redpoll range. The bird nests in the Arctic, but sometimes finds its way south to Canada and the northern U.S. “Redpolls are tiny, restless birds, feeding actively on seeds among trees and weeds, fluttering and climbing about acrobatically, their flocks seemingly always on Common the move,” the redpoll Audubon Society PHOTO BY says. “For their small JUSTIN A. LEVINE size, they have a remarkable ability to survive cold temperatures; their southward flights are sparked by temporary scarcity of food in the North, not by cold. At bird feeders in winter, redpolls are often remarkably tame. “(Redpolls have) a pouch within (the) throat where it can store some food for up to several hours; this helps the bird in bitterly cold weather, allowing it to feed rapidly in the open and then digest food over a long period while it rests in a sheltered spot.” The Cornell Lab of Ornithology says most people see the birds in winter, since their breeding range is rather desolate. “Common Redpolls breed worldwide in the
20
far northern latitudes, in open woods of pine, spruce, alder, birch, and willow up to about 5,000 feet elevation,” Cornell says. “In the essentially treeless tundra they find hollows and shelters where deciduous shrubs or conifers can gain a foothold. They also live around towns. Most people get to see them in winter,
when redpolls move south. In their winter range, which can be extremely variable as the birds seek unpredictable food sources, redpolls occur in open woodlands, scrubby and weedy fields, and backyard feeders.” Audubon says the birds typically lay four or five eggs, but can lay as many as seven. The female sits on the eggs for about 10 days until they hatch, at which point the female does most of the feeding, although the male’s involvement varies by individual. Hatchlings leave the nest less than two weeks after hatching. EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
“Males dominate females in winter flocks, but as breeding season approaches, females become dominant and may take the lead in courtship,” Audubon says. “Does not seem to defend much of a nesting territory; nests of different pairs may be close together. (Nests are) usually very well hidden in dense low shrubs, within a few feet of the ground, sometimes in grass clumps or under brushpiles. Nest (probably built by female) is an open cup of fine twigs, grass, moss, lined with feathers (especially ptarmigan feathers), plant down, or animal hair.” Redpolls feed mainly on seeds but will also eat insects in the summer. Cornell says redpoll behavior is different from many other species, as the small birds may gather into flocks not only during migration but even while courtship is occurring. “Common Redpolls are energetic little birds that forage in flocks, gleaning, fluttering, or hanging upside down in the farthest tips of tree branches,” Cornell says. “Like many finches, they have an undulating, up-anddown pattern when they fly. “To keep order in flocks, redpolls have several ways of indicating their intentions. When quarreling with flockmates, a redpoll fluffs its plumage, faces its adversary, and opens its bill, sometimes jutting its chin to display the black face patch. Males court females by flying in slow circles while calling and singing. Males may feed females during courtship. You may see small flocks of this social species even during the breeding season; during migration they may group into the thousands. In winter, some redpolls roost in tunnels under the snow, where the snowpack provides insulation and stays much warmer than the night air.” For more on redpolls, including audio tracks of their calls, go to www.audubon.org/fieldguide/bird/common-redpoll. Fall 2019
Wildlife watch
CHARTER FISHING Sure Strike Charters
PHOTO — WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
Sport Fishing Lake Champlain 4584 Harbor Rd. Shelbourne, VT 05482 802-324-2289 Captain Brian www.fishvermont.com Captain Brian and Captain Paul are USCG licensed and fully insured with over 50 years of combined experience fishing Lake Champlain. Enjoy beautiful Lake Champlain and its great Landlocked Salmon and Lake Trout fishing on our 281⁄2 foot Baha Sport Fishermen Boat. We specialize in catching Lake Trout and Salmon but also target Walleye, Brown Trout and Steelhead.
FLY FISHING
American Marten SCIENTIFIC NAME: Martes americana COMMON NAME: Pine Marten DESCRIPTION: Martens are a member of the weasel family, which also includes fisher, otters, mink, badgers and wolverines, among others. They can weigh between 1 and 3 pounds and eat other small animals throughout the year. HABITAT: The marten is a very solitary animal and tries to avoid its own until mating season (kind of like some people I know). They are most active around dusk to dawn, but it is not abnormal to catch a glimpse of them during the daylight hours (kind of like some people I know). Their stomping grounds and home lands are generally in a mature spruce/fir forest, but they also like mature beech stands. These areas reflect that of the red squirrel which they love to make as their main course. While shy, they are curious and you may notice them more often in the High Peaks region because of the habitat, but are found throughout the entire park. PROTECTION: The American marten is considered a furbearer in New York State and there is a trapping season for them. They are protected outside of the legal trapping season. FOOD SOURCE: These cute little guys are omnivores but prefer to feast on small mammals like red squirrels, mice and chipmunks, however they are not too fussy and will look for most anything to fill their belly like frogs, fish, insects, birds, nuts, fruit, seeds and even campers’food. Actually they have been known to come right up to a camp that is occupied, drop their sad eyes and look for food. MORE TIDBITS: ¯ These creatures are small and slender with a long bushy trail. The adult male is a few inches longer than the female at around an average of 23 inches, but only weight in at less than 2-pounds. ¯ They have claws like your cat at home, they are semi-retractable. ¯ Their fur is long and very soft, not that you will want to try to cuddle up to one, even though they are darn cute. ¯ The marten is often confused with the fisher which is much larger and also habitats in the martens range. ¯ The marten also has anal scent glands which it uses to mark its territory; the smell is quite strong and may often be mistaken as your hiking partner. — By SPENCER MORRISSEY
The Hungry Trout Fly Shop 5239 Route 86, Wilmington, NY 12997 518-946-2117 flyfishing@hungrytrout.com www.hungrytrout.com www.hungrytrout.com/fly-shop 20 years of professional fly guiding and instruction. Premium fly fishing brands and seasoned, professional fly fishing guides. Lodging, dining, group and multi-day packages available. Voted 2017 “Best Outfitter” in Adirondack Life’s Readers’ Choice Awards.
HIKING/CANOEING/EDUCATIONAL Adirondack Foothills Guide Service LLC Sonny, (License #0260) and Sheila, (License #1747) NYSOGA Master Guides 214 Old Wawbeek Road, Tupper Lake NY 12986 518-359-8194 adkfoothillsgs@gmail.com www.adkfoothills.com Hiking, paddling, fishing, hunting, wilderness education programs. Individuals, families, and groups. Discover and Learn in the Adirondacks
SKI
BIKE
HIKE
More than a bike shop.
LIVE
UPCOMING EVENTS
October 11-14
Columbus Day Weekend Ski & Bike Sale at HPC
October 12
Fall Freefall Rollerski Race Jericho, VT
December 14-15
Demo Weekend
All the best gear from top companies
Saturday, December 14
Nordic Day at Mt. Van Hoevenburg Demo Skis, Equipment & Lessons
Sunday, December 15
AT & Telemark Day at Whiteface Mt Demo Skis, Boots & Clinics
Demo Center - DPS Phantom Glide Waxing Permanence
Performance
Environment
SALES | SERVICE | RENTALS | LESSONS | TOURS | GEAR | LODGING | GUIDE SERVICE
518-523-3764 • 2733 MAIN STREET, LAKE PLACID
www. HIGHPEAKSCYCLERY.com