EMBARK Adirondack Adventure Guide
INSIDE
Summer 2022
•Bikers Compete in Wilmington Bike Race •The Magic of Canoes •Moose Needs in Adirondacks and Northern Appalachians •CATS Opens Broughton Ledges Trail in Moriah
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Contents Over 3,000 miles and counting...........................3 Canoeing from Long Pond Landing.......................4 Circles above Connery.......................................7 Moose Needs in Adirondacks .............................10 The magic of canoes.........................................13 Wilmington mountain bike race..........................14 CATS Opens Broughton Ledges Trail in Moriah......15 Safety for summer hiking season.........................16 Cover Photo: A family of five carries a canoe through the woods. Photo by Metro Creative Graphics
14 Wilmington 100K Mountain bike race
10 Moose needs
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In the Adirondacks
EMBARK Adirondack Adventure Guide
Of canoes
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The Magic
S en d yo u r a w eso m e p ho to w ith a sho r tca p tio n to : lm u n n @ a d iro n d a ckd a ilyen terp rise.co m Pho to sho u ld b e hig h reso lu tio n 1M B/3 00d p i
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Summer 2022
Over 3,000 miles and counting
Summer 2022
At left is Larry Sweeney, Dan Miller, Brian Finn and Thomas Tracey toward the end of the 90-miler race in 2019.
it for a long time, mark down the weather and what you just paddled in,” he added. “We’ve had to break the ice off the bottom of the boat and it was so cold. That’s probably our biggest mistake that we didn’t do.” Along with the memories, Sweeney said he’s met a lot of nice people and that’s another thing that brings him back. He and Finn aren’t super competitive, so they’ve found ways to make the race even more enjoyable over the
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and whatever we needed. We’ve always had a great pit crew, that’s what keeps us going.” The 90-mile tradition has grown throughout the Sweeney household and Finn household. “My family members, Brian’s kids and my kids, have all done it, and my nieces and nephews,” Sweeney said. “We’ve had quite a crew go through.” Sweeney said that his brothers have also competed in the race. He added that his older brother, Steve, has done it for 29 years. For Sweeney, some of his favorite memories were when he raced against his brother, including one time when the weather was very bad. “Brian and I were in front of my two brothers, we went through Brown’s Tract the first day, it’s really tough and then it opens up into Raquette Lake,” Sweeney said. “They were like 20 yards behind us and they tried to yell to us that they canceled the race ... We never heard them. “They went to the taproom, which is right there, and we paddled across the roughest water,” he added. “We didn’t capsize — and we’ve capsized many times — but a lot of boats did and we got to the end of the race and there they are with a beer in their hands yelling at us ... We paddled an extra 10 miles that day.” Sweeney said it’s memories like these that have kept him going all of these years. “(The 90-miler) is a challenge, it’s not easy,” Sweeney said. “If you do it, document each day, because we’ve had some great laughs and our stories get better and better over the years. We’ve done it in all kinds of weather. “I tell people if you do it and do
years. “What you do is you find a race inside the race,” Sweeney said. “You say ‘there is a team like the Mazdzers’ — a local team from Saranac Lake — and you say, ‘ok, we’ve got to beat them’ or ‘we’ve got to beat the Snyders or Grace McDonnell’s four-woman crew, you’ve got to pick them off.’” If Sweeney can keep making new memories and can meet new people, it seems like there won’t be an end to his journey anytime soon.
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SARANAC LAKE — There aren’t too many things that last more than 35 years, but for Saranac Lake native Larry Sweeney the Adirondack Canoe Classic — better known as the 90-miler — is one of them. After betting his buddies a keg of beer in 1986 that he could complete the 90-mile long canoe race, Sweeney and his long-time teammate Brian Finn completed the three-day journey in 9 hours, 55 minutes, 34 seconds. While it’s safe to say Sweeney won the bet and the beer likely didn’t last that long, what did last was a family tradition he still holds today. “Brian and I have done it together for 35 years straight,” Sweeney said. “The only one we’ve missed is the one where they didn’t have it for COVID. We didn’t do the first couple because we didn’t know about it.” Sweeney and Finn went to high school together in Saranac Lake and although Finn lives in Massachusetts, the pair have made sure to attend the 90-miler every year since they’ve started, even when Sweeney was living in South Carolina. “Wherever we were, I would fly up to Massachusetts — because that’s where he lives — and we’d drive up,” Sweeney said. While Sweeney and Finn live far away from each other, they don’t train for the race, and they since have switched over from two-man to four-man. “Four-man is the way to go,” Sweeney said. Sweeney said the other two guys have been doing it for 10 years with them. After logging more than 3,000 miles in a canoe, Sweeney says he doesn’t know if anything could stop him and Finn from doing the 90-miler. He said that maybe health or the entry fee would play a factor or if they lost their pit crew, then they would probably be done. Sweeney said his pit crew, which is made up of his and his teammates’ families, has played a huge role in their journey over the years. He added that they help them with lodging and basic needs during the race. “We don’t tent out. We’ve never tented, we stay in cabins and things like that,” Sweeney said. “We would have it so my parents — who are a part of my pit crew — would fix us spaghetti dinners
(Enterprise file photo —Justin Levine)
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Trips with students always start late. We intended to arrive at Long Pond Landing at 11 a.m., but we rolled into the parking lot at 2 p.m., unloaded the trailer and prepped it for the other group that would end there four days later. By the time we were actually ready to start the portage it was 3 p.m., and the group was already tired despite the lackadaisical start to the day. The attitude at the beginning of a trip is never what I hope it will be, but I’ve found over the years that the best way to motivate college students is to let them make their own plan. They’re used to being told what they’re doing, so when you give them agency over their learning experience they initially aren’t sure what to do. In this case, before our portage down to Long Pond I sat them down and told them that they would decide where we were going, but that their plan needed to have us ending at Little Clear Pond, include hiking Long Pond Mountain and/or St Regis Mountain, and that we had to spend time bushwhacking. My other request was that each evening they give me an overview of their plan for the following day, including timeline, basic risk management plan, contingency plan, and three objectives they hoped
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(Provided photo —St. Regis Canoe)
Canoeing from Long Pond Landing
to achieve. They were excited for the freedom, but a bit confused about what to do with it. All of my requests fell well within the realm of what they were learning in the Expeditionary Stud-
ies Program at SUNY Plattsburgh, but this was the first time they were able to use those skills to influence the trajectory of a class. When we finally got on the water, one of the
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students looked at me and said “Where are we going now?” I reminded them that our destination was up to them, which led to some light squabbling amongst the group. They decided that we should
head to campsite #12 for the night, and then make a plan for the next few days. The paddle to our campsite was quick, which surprised them and Continued on page 5
Summer 2022
Continued from page 4
gave them reference for planning. We took the time to identify Long Pond Mountain, which was partially veiled by clouds, and admired the fall foliage. There were a few Loons hanging around. I pointed them out to the students and made sure they didn’t disturb them. That evening, we enjoyed our first sunset of the trip, part of the exceptional beauty of the St. Regis Canoe Wilderness. The lackadaisical attitude had finally lifted, and they were anxious to get an early start the next day. I woke up early the next morning in anticipation for sunrise, hoping it would match the splendor of one I had experienced on my own St. Regis canoe trip when I was a student. While the sunrise from campsite #12 didn’t quite live up to the one I saw from campsite #1 years prior, I was happy to be up early and making breakfast. As I anticipated, the morning went on, and not one student was up yet. We had a long day ahead of us, and an early start was crucial, especially in October when the sun disappears around 6:00pm. An hour and a half after our planned departure, we were finally heading toward the portage to Nellie Pond. The paddle there was peaceful with a thin layer of fog over the water. We located
Summer 2022
the portage, conveniently marked with a white sign, and took a pause to strategize. I shared some methods for portaging overnight equipment and boats, and encouraged them to try a few different things throughout the day. The first portage took the group nearly three hours to complete. It was muddy, there were some tight turns, and they were struggling to figure out a good system. Some of them tried to carry everything at once, some gave as much gear as possible to one person and gave the boat to the other, and others took two trips. They spent another 20 minutes on the shore of Nellie Pond arguing about which method was the reason for their slow performance, eventually realizing that their argument wasn’t productive, and deciding it would be best to move on to Kit Fox Pond. The portage to Kit Fox, which was shorter and less challenging than the previous, provided an easy win that lifted their spirits. They were excited to get back into their boats, even just for a short time, to admire the pond, crack jokes and have a snack. After some discussion, they opted for the portage straight to Fish Pond rather than taking two short portages to Little Long and then Fish Pond. Their reasoning was that they didn’t like the transition in and out of the boats, as they found it difficult and time-consuming. The
trail they chose led them straight to the top of an esker and offered a narrow pathway between small trees. I joked with my teaching assistant that it almost felt like a bushwhack, and that we might be able to count it as the bushwhack requirement I noted the day before. When our trail met up with the trail from Little Long Pond to Fish Pond, they realized that they had made the more difficult choice. This would have been obvious if they had looked at the contours on their map. Fish Pond was stunning. The foliage was past its peak, but the colors contrasted with the rock on the Northwest side of the pond, and a thin layer of fog kissed the top of the tree line, making us pause in admiration. We took our time paddling across to the portage. I’m not sure if that was because it was so beautiful or because we wanted to spend as much time paddling as possible, knowing that the alternative was to throw everything on our backs again. Regardless, it was on Fish Pond that my students decided that “hiking with canoes” was well worth the effort. They contemplated staying on Fish Pond that night, but they needed to meet two of their objectives the next day; bushwhacking and hiking St. Regis Mountain. They decided to combine the two, and their planned route started on Ochre
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Pond. Remembering the late start that morning, they decided to push on to Ochre, but not before making an attempt at bypassing the portage by paddling down the West Branch of the St. Regis, which is effectively a creek clogged with downed trees. Once they got that out of their systems, they hopped on the portage trail for the final stretch. This portage was a struggle, but everyone got through it, some with a better attitude than others. The nature of the trail made the haul more enjoyable. The esker was covered in green moss and a variety of fungi. Near the end of the trail, there were large conifers to the left and a beautiful mossy stream to the right. They concluded that the stream was the “river” they had attempted to paddle an hour or so earlier, and had a good laugh at their own expense. When the first of us arrived at the campsite, we turned around to see a burning red and orange sunset. Across the pond, we could make out the last two groups leaving the landing and heading our way. While approaching the campsite, one pair stood up in their boat, threw their hands up in the air, and let out an accomplished yell. They had made it through the most physically challenging day of the trip, and they did so of their own volition. Once they were fed and settled, we took the opportunity to debrief
our experience and discuss how the lessons we learned could be applied in the coming days. After laying out the plan for the next day’s bushwhack, they once again fell asleep with the intention of an early morning. The morning, predictably, did not go as planned. They were 30 minutes late this time, which is much better than 90 minutes, especially considering they needed to break down camp in preparation to move sites once we returned from our hike. When everyone was ready to start the bushwhack up St. Regis Mountain, I looked around and noticed an underwhelming number of day packs. Some students weren’t even planning to bring food and water, and most of them didn’t think to grab a map. I kindly reminded them that bushwhacking meant hiking off trail, and that their level of preparedness wasn’t even acceptable for hiking on trail, especially considering their planned professions. I followed up by asking them how they planned to get through the day without a map and compass, as they were responsible for getting us down the mountain. After some quick reshuffling, they were ready to go. My teaching assistant Cal took on the challenge of leading us on the first half of the bushwhack. It’s importContinued on page 6
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Canoeing from Long Pond Landing Continued from page 5
ant for students to be led through a challenging situation by another student because it makes that level of competency seem more achievable. After a quick refresher of navigation basics, we headed northeast from our campsite into Panther Gorge. Most of my students were climbers, so they were overwhelmed by the giant rock face we discovered when we arrived in the gorge. To them, it was a blank slate of seemingly untapped potential, a naive assumption considering the history of climbing in the Adirondacks. Once the high of their “discovery” wore off, Cal set the next course to the summit, following a drainage on the southeast side of St. Regis. The remainder of the hike was challenging, but fairly straightforward. Cal was sure to stop every so often and discuss his approach with them. When we finally reached the summit 2.5 hours later, there was a sense of both surprise and accomplishment, a common feeling for a first-year student in the program. The view from the top of St. Regis Mountain felt well worth the effort, a feeling only strengthened by the fact that they bushwhacked rather than taking the trail from Keese Mill Road or Spring Bay.
We spent an hour sitting in the sun and soaking in the remaining warmth of summer, looking over the ponds which we had traversed the day before. They had cell phone service, so they celebrated their accomplishment by sending videos to their friends, many of which had references that I didn’t understand despite only being 8 to 10 years older. I was glad to see their enthusiasm, even if they weren’t enjoying the moment the same way that I was. Getting us back to our campsite was their responsibility. They chose the added challenge of taking a different route on the descent than Cal had taken on the way up. It started down the same drainage we had followed before, but about half way down, followed a new drainage heading west-southwest down the mountain. They used their knowledge of topographic maps to determine when to head straight south, aiming to end up between Monday and Tuesday Ponds. Much to their surprise, they hit their target straight on the nose. After a short but enthusiastic celebration, we finished the hike back to camp on Ochre Pond, where they spent the afternoon discussing their success and filtering water in preparation of packing their boats and moving over to St. Regis Pond.
Their enthusiasm was palpable when we got back on the water. It was only 2:30pm and they had already accomplished so much. We paddled leisurely over to the east side of Ochre Pond and prepared for the portage to St. Regis Pond; a task that didn’t seem as daunting as it would have the day prior. When we reached St. Regis Pond, they were happy to have such a large volume of water to work with. Many of the ponds on the way over to Ochre were only large enough to paddle for a few short minutes, so this opportunity to explore was a treat. We took our time choosing two sites for the night. They contemplated staying on the island, but the wind forecast for the morning deterred them. They eventually settled on site #1, and the teaching assistants and I stayed on site #12. The opportunity to camp on their own, meaning without the presence of their professor, was given intentionally. I think it is important that they have the opportunity to practice authenticity, especially in the stage of the trip where they feel accomplished, and my presence doesn’t allow for that. I wanted to make sure they felt responsible for and connected to their experience. I have no idea what they did that evening, but I enjoyed some
relaxed conversation and reflected on the learning accomplished during our first three days. The following morning the group was ready to go ahead of schedule, which is not uncommon on the last day of a trip. I like to think that their promptness was due to the lessons they learned rather than their excitement to go home. In reality I think it’s a little of both. I met them at their campsite, and we paddled the short, winding path toward the carry to Little Clear Pond. To say that they were excited to be done with their last portage would be an understatement. They got through it quickly, and we made a plan to get across Little Clear Pond despite the strong headwind. We used the land to our advantage, ducking into wind shadows whenever possible, and made our way toward the takeout. At one point, we rafted our canoes together and paddled as a single unit. This is a skill that is helpful while guiding clients on windy, choppy days as it stabilizes the boats and creates a stronger forward inertia. It felt fitting that we finished the trip this way, as their success was due to their strong mutual effort. We were supposed to be picked up at 1:00pm, so we had about an hour to get ourselves sorted and debrief our experi-
ence on the popular but strenuous 9 Carries route. They felt how most people feel after they do it for the first time; exhausted but thankful for the experience. There are quite a few routes in the Adirondacks which can only be accomplished by “hiking with canoes”, an act that is counterintuitive at best, but the 9 Carries is one that I think everyone should try at least once. There is no accurate way to describe how that route makes you feel. After some reflection, they decided that they were satisfied with the choices they made over the course of the weekend. They appreciated the freedom they were given in choosing their own path, and they felt that it amplified their learning experience. They understood the benefits struggling on portages, and accurately identified changes they could make for future trips. I can say with certainty that this was the only time I’ve ever heard a group of college students say that they genuinely enjoyed a bushwhack. We set some goals for the future as we waited an additional two hours for the other group to pick us up. I encouraged them to have some lunch and a warm beverage, as I knew we would have this additional time. Trips with students always end late, too.
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(Provided photo —Jonathan Zaharek)
Circles above Connery
“A quiet Adirondack starry June night at Connery Pond with Whiteface Mountain in the distance. The circular rotation of the stars above are from a long camera exposure capturing the stars as they move throughout the night sky while the Earth rotates.”
SUMMER ADVENTURE
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Moose Needs in Adirondacks and Northern Appalachians (Provided photos —Larry Master)
As the first large-scale experiment in rewilding, the Adirondack Park has been remarkably successful. Many species nearly extirpated a century ago - including river otter, fisher, bobcat, black bear, beaver, common loon (Adirondack Council’s logo animal), bald eagle, and peregrine falcon -have rebounded wonderfully. Most of this wildlife recovery has been through natural recolonization, after killing was limited and some habitat allowed to regrow; and the latest of the charismatic animals to return has been the Moose, Alces alces, largest surviving member of the Deer family.
A Raven’s Eye Perspective on Moose in Our Region
As a recent article in New York Department of Environmental Conservation magazine The Conservationist by biologist David Kaplan explains, moose are slowly expanding in numbers across northern New York, perhaps numbering about 700 in the Adirondack Park. The long-term prospects for moose here are unsure, however, for this massive browser is a boreal species. Moose don’t like hot weather. A warming climate will tend to favor a smaller deer family member, white-tail deer, over moose. As seen in Maine where their numbers have fallen lately, moose are highly susceptible to moose ticks, also called winter ticks. Paradoxically, where moose are densely populated due to abundant early succession forest and lack of top predators, moose are succumbing to cold in winter, after rubbing off their coats from agitation by ticks. Moose are also susceptible to liver flukes and brainworm, both parasites carried by white-tail deer and passed to moose when the larger ungulates browse plants near deer scat. High deer numbers, then, may pose a challenge to long-term moose prosperity - another reason why top carnivores are needed in Northern Forests. Moose becoming road-kill is already a major problem for moose in parts of the US Northeast and southeast Canada. A sizable fraction of moose mortality in northern New York each year is from being hit by motor vehicles while trying to cross roads. Safe wildlife crossings as well as lower - and enforced - speed limits at night could help lessen this ongoing roadkill tragedy. Road-kill, by the way, is a tragedy for both wildlife and people. Added to the billions 10
of animals killed on roads every year, about 200 humans in the US die every year from collisions between the vehicles they are driving and ungulates trying to cross roads. Regional, and even continental, habitat connectivity becomes ever more important as climate warms and human numbers grow. For wide-ranging species like moose, dispersal events are important for maintaining genetic diversity and allowing demographic rescue. Moose are quite tolerant of human presence, but they are most likely to thrive and roam freely where extensive natural habitats of forest and wetland persist. Being a well-connected and diverse landscape including boreal habitats, the Adirondack Park is the last best chance for New York to retain a mega-herbivore. Assuring a future for moose here means stabilizing climate; continuing to fully protect the Forest Preserve (which provides the secure habitat wide-ranging species need); encouraging ecologically sustainable forestry on large private lands (which can emulate natural disturbances like wind-throw Continued on page 11
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Continued from page 10
and beaver-clearing, and generate rich browse); strengthening habitat connections within and beyond Adirondack Park, including the Adirondack to Algonquin link (A2A), which Alice the Moose famously traversed years ago; and installing safe wildlife crossings where moose are vulnerable to road-kill. Ultimately, when moose achieve carrying capacity in northern New York, they’ll need wolves to keep the herd strong and keep their numbers in check with plant communities.
Where moose are now
Moose have recolonized or rebounded in much of the northeastern US, from Maine to Massachusetts, after nearly being regionally extirpated a century ago. Moose returned from their remnant strongholds in northern Maine and southern Quebec and Ontario. Probably more because of recolonization patterns than because of habitat quality, moose are scarcer in New York than in New England. Until the explosions of winter tick numbers, anyway, moose were seemingly prospering most in Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, and particularly the northern halves of these cold states. In New York, moose are most abundant in
north-central Adirondack Park. Moose returned to New York’s North Country later than to New England, partly because we are bounded by broad valleys occupied by towns and farmlands, and remain lower in numbers here. Relative moose abundance on the heavily managed timber-company-owned lands of northern New England causes some people to assume moose prefer logged lands
to unlogged lands. This is probably a misperception. Moose and many other so-called “game” species - the animals our kind likes to shoot or trap or hook - do often temporarily thrive in recently logged areas, which after cutting see a profusion of young succulent vegetation. In a more natural landscape, though, moose, white-tail deer, ruffed grouse, wild turkey, and other animals that may seem
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to prefer managed timberlands to Forest Preserve would find plenty of early succession forest in areas where beavers, wind, ice, or floods have cleared trees. So while we affirm that ecologically sustainable forestry can serve well moose and other species people love to see, let us not mislead the public by implying Continued on page 12
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Continued from page 11
that these species need logging to thrive. Were that so, they’d have gone extinct long before humans arrived in North America, less than 20,000 years ago. In the long term, Moose and most native species probably do best in landscapes functioning as nearly as possible to the ways they would had not Euro-American colonists disrupted natural flows and patterns. We have disrupted flows, obviously, though, so finding the right mix of public Forest Preserve lands and private sustainably managed lands is a good goal.
What Moose Need Now
Specific steps toward keeping moose in the biota of the Adirondacks and Northern Appalachians include these: Slash carbon emissions and save old forests to avert climate chaos. An overheating world is unkind to moose. Moose in the northeastern United States could soon see their remarkable recovery reversed if humans continue to pump greenhouse gases into the atmosphere. The last strongholds for the Moose in the eastern US likely will include northern Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont and New York’s Adirondack Park - but even these strongholds are at risk from climate disruption. Install safe wildlife crossings on busy roads including inter-state and cross-provincial highways. In Adirondack Park, safe wildlife crossings are especially needed on I-87 and Routes 3, 9, 22, 30, 73, and 86. Both underpasses and overpasses are needed, to serve different species. A few big wildlife bridges over I-87 would do much to educate motorists on road ecology issues, while also less-
ening the fragmenting damage of this major south-north highway. Protect major wildways across the region. In and around Adirondack Park, crucial wildways include the Algonquin Park to Adirondack Park connection (A2A, along the Frontenac Axis of Precambrian bedrock); the Adirondack to Tug Hill nexus across the Black River Valley; the Southern Lake Champlain Valley linking the Adirondacks with Vermont’s Green Mountains; and stream corridors wherever they remain intact or can be restored. For moose, the most critical of these regional wildways may be A2A, as suggested by Alice the Moose famously wandering from the middle of Adirondack Park to the southeast part of Algonquin Park fifteen years ago, essentially following the wildlife corri-
dor previously mapped by biologists. For A2A to be kept as an intact wildlife corridor will require installing safe wildlife crossings on the busy roads near the Canada/US border, especially the highways in Canada running east-west near the border, and the Thousand Islands Parkway on the US side; and greatly accelerating the pace of private lands conservation, particularly by land trusts and particularly in St. Lawrence and Jefferson Counties on the US side. Welcome the return of top carnivores to restore predator/prey and moose/deer balances. As artists and biologists have long known, plant communities and even the herbivores who feed on them need top predators to maintain health. Poet Robinson Jeffers long ago asked: Who but the wolf
has whittled so fine the fleet feet of the antelope? Likely Jeffers was alluding to wolves pursuing pronghorn on the Great Plains, but the principle applies with other predator-prey relationships in other ecosystems. As abundant conservation biology literature now shows, although the presence of top carnivores may mean slightly fewer ungulates, the browsers themselves, and even more the plants they eat, need this predatory governance. Ultimately, to have healthy populations in healthy plant communities, moose need wolves. Coyotes and black bears may occasionally take moose calves, but seldom if ever will they take full-grown healthy moose. Pumas, if welcomed home, would principally prey on white-tail deer - which would benefit moose though they might occasionally also take moose calves. Wolves, being pack hunters, are the one predator that can exercise strong control on moose numbers and behavior.
Moose as Icon
Adirondack Park is a great rewilding success story, but it is unfinished. It is the wildest landscape in the US East, but it is not yet wild enough. Like the Common Loon in the Adirondack Council’s logo, the moose symbolizes what we have achieved in Adirondack Park but also what is still far from secure. If we complete this great rewilding story - keeping the Park wild and connected, averting climate disruption, welcoming home missing species — moose will be more abundant in our grandchildren’s lives than they are now, and our grandchildren may occasionally feel the thrill of seeing wolf tracks in the snow close on the trail of an old bull moose.
Donnelly’s Ice Cream If you’ve never been to Donnelly’s, put it on your to-do list. It’s worth the ride!
Famous TWO-TONE CONES An Adirondack Tradition Since 1953
OPEN DAILY 11ish 11ish-9:30 PM
‘til 9 PM starting August 19
Jct. Rtes. 86 & 186 • Between Gabriels and Saranac Lake 12
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Summer 2022
By AL MERLE
The wall of evergreens that ringed Little Clear Pond stretched their needled fingers into the water, staining it a rippling green. We had just put in ten minutes ago and were poised to make our first portage, eager to push farther and farther from the boundary of the road. Pack on my back and barrel strapped to Jackson’s, we hefted our canoe up and over our heads and started down the trail. I didn’t begrudge the weight, though it was crushing. This vessel was our cradle and it would carry us across 45 kilometers in the next four days, but the relationship was reciprocal, and now it was our turn to carry it. We continued like this for most of the day, paddling along the shore of various ponds and then portaging between them. Situated in the stern of the boat, it was a joy to steer. It rang intimate, getting to know the boat and becoming attuned to its idiosyncrasies. It was connection without vulnerability, no fear of reproach. It was a safe trend of trial and error, combining strokes to track straight, learning and anticipating how the canoe reacted to my paddle. Pulling our boats up on the steepsloped shore, trying not to drop them and slip back into the water, we set up camp for the night. The site on Bear Pond became our brief home. Then Caper, Kate, Jackson, and I arranged ourselves in a circle, gathering around the ghost of a Summer 2022
fire, needing no external source of warmth as the four of us laughed and regaled with one another about our wild canoe conversations. Curls of vapor rose off the glass surface of the pond. It was almost a shame to set our canoes in the water and see our ripples break that limpid calm. A total and irreplicable peace. We paddled out anyway, losing the other canoe as it disappeared into the mist. Almost immediately that rare sense of surety was again at my fingertips, curled beneath them as they guided the motion of the paddle. Now there was a second step, an added layer to the closeness between me and the canoe. It was realized as Jackson and I began to communicate on steering. It became obvious when I started calling “hup” to switch sides. It was trust. It was familiarity. It was partnership. That reassuring connection felt between canoe and paddler, created by the need to read and adjust for the boat, affected both partners, necessitating us to extend that link to each other. Suddenly it became a human connection without the looming dread of reproach, without the threat of ridicule or the fear of revulsion. A security that was the stuff of fairytales, the canoe had fashioned us into brothers for the time we were in it and offered us friendship on the waters of Upper St. Regis Lake. This is the magic of canoes. The lessons of the wild.
PLACES WORTH SAVING
Photograph by Brendan Wiltse
(Provided photo —Steve Maynard)
The magic of canoes
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EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
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By PARKER O’BRIEN Sports Editor
WILMINGTON — After a twoyear hiatus due to the coronavirus pandemic, the Wilmington/Whiteface 50K and 100K mountain bike race returned to the Whiteface Mountain Ski Center on Saturday. With solid weather throughout the day, the race didn’t disappoint. Around 400 cyclists competed in the 100K race, which counted as one of the seven qualifying races for the Leadville 100 mountain bike race in the Colorado Rockies from Aug. 18-19. Around 60 bikers competed in the 50K race. Ryan Atkins, of Quebec, Canada, claimed the top spot in the 100K race. Atkins rode right past the finish line at 4 hours, 8 minutes, 27 seconds. “Honestly, I felt good,” Atkins said. “I don’t think I ever felt like I was going that hard on the climbs, but then my legs started twinging. I knew I had to slow down and just conserve. “It’s weird, I don’t normally cramp, so I don’t know what was going on,” he added. “I definitely had to pump the breaks and chill out a bit. I played it right. I played my cards alright and I’m super psyched to win.” Emile Hamm, of Ontario, Canada, took second place in a time of 4:09:06, while Mathieu Blanger-Barrette, of Quebec, Canada, clocked a time of 4:09:47 in third. Regina Legge, of Salem, New Hampshire, was the first woman to cross the finish line in the 100K race. Legge clocked a time of
4:56:02 to place 49th overall. Lindsay Webster, of Quebec, Canada, took second place in the women’s 100K in 5:07:39, and Anja Meichs, of Belmont, Massachusetts, followed up in third place in 5:10:18. In the 50K race, two locals claimed the top podium spots. Lake Placid’s Curtis Howard and Elizabeth Izzo won the men’s and women’s races, respectively. “I felt amazing. I felt really strong and I felt like I could really climb, which is my favorite,” Izzo said. Howard completed the course in 1:55:10, while Izzo finished in 2:10:51. For Izzo, the win marked her second in a row after winning the event in 2019. Two years ago she finished at a time of 2:09:25. “I never expect to win. It’s always a fight to earn it, but I’m psyched,” Izzo said. Deidre Cullen (2:21:15) of Laconia, New Hampshire, and Megan Cea (2:27:21) of Peekskill finished in second and third place, respectively, for the women’s 50K. Lake Placid natives Caitlin and Emily Delaney finished the race together in 3:14:24. The pair tied for eighth place. On the men’s side, Jerry Hughes (2:01:53) of Hopkinton, Massachusetts took second place and Patrick Robinson (2:03:52) of Ringwood, New Jersey rounded out the podium in third. Brian Delaney, of Lake Placid, finished in 2:35:10 to earn 15th place in the men’s category.
(Enterprise photos — Parker O’Brien)
Bikers compete in Wilmington bike race
Trish Dugan, of Fayetteville, rides past a trail toward Mixing Bowl on Whiteface Mountain.
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Emile Hamm, of Ontario, Canada, gets air the finish line of the 100K mountain bike race. 14
77 Main St. Saranac Lake, NY 518-354-8497 humanpowerplanetearth.com EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Summer 2022
Broughton Ledges
Ensign Pond Road about 7.5 miles west of Port Henry and 7 miles east of NYS Route 9N. Champlain Area Trails (CATS) is a nonprofit, accredited land trust whose mission is to save land, make trails, connect people with nature and promote economic vitality in New York’s Champlain Valley. Information on CATS events and activities is available at champlainareatrails.com Please call 518-962-2287 or email info@ champlainareatrails.com for more information.
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Yellow leaves sparkled along the rocky ledges as fifteen people hiked up a series of switchbacks for almost two miles to a more level loop trail that showcased the cliffs that are known as “Broughton Ledges.” As they walked along the old woods road, they passed through a beautiful forest with cliffs, large rocks, flowing streams, and discreet views. Champlain Area Trails (CATS) presented these natural moments for people to enjoy in the grand opening of the Broughton Ledges Trail in Moriah on last October. Since then, it has already proven to be a popular place for hikers seeking a more challenging CATS trail. CATS Executive Director, Chris Maron, describes Broughton Ledges as more “primitive” than the typical CATS trail, in that it plies the backcountry more deeply and is longer and more rugged. The 6-mile hike resembles a balloon the string leads to an oval loop, and on completion of the loop, the hiker returns to the road by way of the string. “Making this trail was a threeyear process,” said Bill Amadon, who designs most of CATS trails. He spent many days scoping a south-facing mountain-ridge for a route people could climb without creating ruts or too steep of a trail. He succeeded. “We are so pleased to finally open this trail,” Maron exclaimed. “The Eddy Foundation, which owns the property to conserve the wildlife habitat, has wanted to have hiking trails for local residents and visitors to enjoy. So, we worked together, and with the help of many volunteers, completed the trail and are happy to have people hiking on it.” Broughton Ledges Trail is on
(Provided photos — Champlain Area Trails)
Champlain Area Trails Opens Broughton Ledges Trail in Moriah
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Explore NY’s Champlain Valley
And CATS’ 67 miles of uncrowded, family-friendly trails.
Hikers at Broughton Ledges
Summer 2022
For maps of all the trails in the Champlain Valley visit:www.champlainareatrails.com
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
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DEC reminds visitors to focus on safety for summer hiking season New York State Department of Environmental Conservation Commissioner Basil Seggos reminded visitors to New York’s outdoor spaces to focus on safety before they head out to their outdoor adventures in the state’s wild and beautiful destinations on May 27. Ahead of this summer’s recreational season, DEC continues to advance actions to promote public safety and improve visitor experience. “Recreating safely and responsibly starts with planning ahead before visiting the Adirondacks, Catskills, and any of New York’s wild places,” Commissioner Seggos said in a statement. “Preparing for potential dangers and changing weather conditions and knowing your limits before hiking into the back country can mean the difference between life and death. To protect yourself and others, I’m encouraging outdoor adventurers to plan ahead and make smart decisions to prevent accidents before they occur.” Visitation to State Forest Preserve lands is typically highest during the summer months. In partnership with State agencies, local municipalities, and private entities, DEC is working to protect public safety, improve the visitor experience during the busy season, and safeguard sensitive ecosystems. Using recommendations outlined by the High Peaks Strategic Planning Advisory Group and Catskills Strategic Planning Advisory Group, as well as input from local and community partners and outdoors enthusiasts, New York State continues to implement new strategies and adaptively manage the ongoing safety and resource needs of both Forest Preserve regions. For more information, go to 2022 Actions to Protect Public Safety and Promote Sustainable Use of State Lands and DEC Reminds Visitors to Practice Safe, Sustainable Recreation at Zoar Valley Multiple Use and Unique Areas this Season on DEC’s website.
Be Prepared
Wear proper gear and attire, including sturdy, comfortable boots. 16
¯Moisture-wicking synthetic fabrics that keep your skin dry and help regulate your body temperature in both cold and warm weather - avoid cotton as it holds moisture. ¯Layered clothing is recommended even for summer hikes. ¯Light-colored clothing, which will make it easier to see ticks. ¯ Waterproof, sturdy, and comfortable shoes or boots (no flip-flops). ¯A watch or other time-keeping device. ¯Trekking poles will reduce leg fatigue and joint pain. ¯Snowshoes and traction devices in the winter. Hikers and others heading outdoors should always let someone know where they are going, when they plan to return, and should provide updates if there are any changes to the plan. Anyone heading out needs to be realistic about their fitness and skill level and not overestimate their abilities or underestimate the weather conditions.
10 Hiking Essentials
Sun and insect protection
Emergency kit
¯Sunglasses. ¯Sunscreen. ¯Hat. ¯Bug Repellent. ¯Bug Net.
Fire
¯Tent. ¯Space Blanket. ¯Tarp.
¯Whistle. ¯Signal mirror. ¯Duct tape. ¯Pocket knife/multi-tool, etc. ¯Bright colored cloth. ¯Matches in waterproof container. ¯Lighter. ¯Fire starters.
Nutrition
¯Choose high protein and high calorie items. ¯Pack extra food.
Water
¯Pack at least 2 liters per person. ¯Carry more than you think you will need. ¯Water filtration or purifying system.
Emergency shelter
Those planning a trip should consider going with at least one other person. Hiking alone can be dangerous. Also monitor trail conditions before your arrival and during your hike. Trail condition resources include: Adirondacks area; Catskills area (leaves DEC website); Finger Lakes area (leaves DEC website). These and many more hiking safety tips are on the DEC’s Hike Smart website. Content from the DEC website. For more information, visit https:// www.dec.ny.gov/index.html.
Want to Embark?
Carry these essentials in a day pack on all hikes for a safe and enjoyable experience.
Navigation
¯ Map. ¯Compass. ¯GPS system. ¯Extra batteries.
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Insulation/rain gear
¯Waterproof/windproof jacket. ¯Hat. ¯Gloves. ¯Thermal undergarments (pack extra). ¯Wool socks (pack extra). ¯Goggles - Winter. ¯Face mask - Winter.
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Light
¯Headlamp. ¯Flashlight. ¯Lanterns. ¯Extra batteries.
First aid supplies
¯Use a pre-made kit or build your own.
Mail to: Embark PO Box 318 Saranac Lake, NY 12983 518-891-2600 circulation@adirondackdailyenterprise.com
(make checks payable to Adirondack Daily Enterprise) Although Embark is free, some of you may want to get a subscription if you live outside the circulation area or just want to guarantee yourself a copy. To have a subscription mailed to your home or business, call 518-891-2600 or send in the coupon with payment.
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Summer 2022
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Summer 2022
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