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Contents
4
Nordic skating
6
Go the distance with Nordic blades on lakes, ponds and other surfaces
Send us your photos....................................................3 Nordic skating.............................................................4 Buyer’s guide: Snowshoes...........................................6 Gear up .....................................................................12
Buyer’s guide Everything you need to know for purchasing snowshoes
5 trips .......................................................................14 Safety on the ice .......................................................16 Adventure trips .........................................................18 Flora and fauna.........................................................20
e M B AR K Brought to you by the publishers of the
THE LAKE PLACID NEWS and
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Publisher: Catherine Moore Managing editor: Peter Crowley editor: Morgan Ryan Designer: Morgan Ryan email: sports@adirondackguide.com Produced by Adirondack Publishing, P.o. Box 318, 54 Broadway, saranac Lake, nY 12983
Five trips Relatively easy snowshoeing trips in Wilmington
Cover photo: Photo by spencer Morrissey Although Embark is free, some of you may want to get a subscription if you live outside the circulation area or just want to guarantee yourself a copy. To have a subscription mailed to your home or business, call 518-891-2600.
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Winter 2020
Send us your photos ... Embark magazine looks forward to displaying your outdoor-related photographs in future editions. This sunrise photo was taken by Jesse Adcock from Riverside Park in Saranac Lake. Send your submissions to sports@adirondackguide.com.
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3
SKATING
Nordic skating
PHOTOS BY JESSE ADCOCK
AWAY ON THIN BL A DE S Griffin Kelly, left, and John Dimon work their way around the plowed trail on Mirror Lake in Lake Placid.
I
By GRIFFIN KELLY
fell. After a good half-hour of ice skating, I was only a couple hundred feet away from the shores of Mirror Lake when I bailed and busted my knee. My partner in crime, Jesse Adcock, took photos as I gripped my leg and winced in pain. With that out of the way, let’s get into my continuing battle against seasonal affective disorder and first Nordic skating experience. I may have donned skates once in the past, but I was hugging the wall the whole time while my ex-girlfriend smirked and giggled. For this outing, I was going to need the help of a professional — John Dimon, former competitive speedskater and owner of the Human Power Planet Earth bike shop in Saranac Lake. We opted out of hockey and figure skates and went with blades for a form of ice skating that’s been gaining popularity in the past few years: Nordic. Where regular skating generally has people going in circles around an ice rink or speedskating oval, Nordic skating is mostly done on waterbodies (“wild ice”), and, like its skiing cousin, is focused more on distance than quick loops. Nordic blades are also massive. I felt like I was slowly gliding on two cutlasses a pirate would keep in his or her belt. The unique thing about Nordic blades, though, is that they 4
clip onto cross-country ski boots. So if you’re an avid Nordic skier, you don’t have to buy a new pair of boots, just a set of blades. Dan Spada, of Tupper Lake, started Nordic skiing a little over 10 years ago. He said he skated as a kid but fell out of it for a while until he started taking his children skating at the Rideau Canal in Ottawa. One day, among the dozens of skaters, he noticed a man with long skates and ski boots. “What are those, and where did you get them?” he asked. After purchasing his first pair of Nordic skates, Spada said his first skate was a revelation. “It’s a totally different motion and glide,” he said. “Suddenly I had this glide of 20 or 30 feet in one kick. It didn’t dawn on me until I EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
got out on big ice, the long distances you could travel.” With an expert at my side, nothing to grab onto and the frozen lake water beneath me, I took my first strides on the ice. Well, they were more like tiny steps — really tiny steps. At the same time, a father taught his child how to skate. I felt like that kid — unsure and slightly nervous — only I was 5 feet taller. “Do you know how penguins walk?” Dimon asked me as I tried my best not to stare at my feet. You need to turn your feet out but also lean in on your metatarsals. I positioned my feet like a baby who wasn’t sure which bone development issue he had, in-toeing or out-toeing. “I know it seems weird to step sideways and go forward,” Dimon said. What started out as merely tiptoes slowly turned in to 2-foot-long glides on each leg. After a couple of loops around the rink, it was time for the real challenge — the ice path that goes around the whole lake. Dimon handed me two cross-country ski poles. They give you a break from moving your legs constantly and also help you navigate rough, bumpy ice, and there was plenty of that. I wasn’t ready to skate the whole lake, but I made it my mission to at least reach the Lake Placid Club Boat House. The sight of the gray Continued on page 5 Winter 2020
Nordic skating
Continued from page 4
building in the distance fueled my legs. Spada shares the sentiment that winter can be a rough time for the human psyche. “Winters are long in the North Country,” he said. “You sit behind a computer screen for six months, you’re going to have a poor attitude. Nordic skating is like snowshoeing or hiking or skiing — another activity for your winter arsenal.” Now retired, Spada said he’ll skate many miles when he goes out on a water body. “We call it ‘full entitlement,’” he said. “We feel entitled to skate every bit of good ice on the water body, and I’ll skate it all in one day. An average day of skating for me is 13 miles, and I’ve done several marathons already.” As we skated away from the shore, I noticed two pokey tools dangling around Dimon’s neck. “What are those?” I asked. “Ice picks,” he said. “They’re for in case you fall through the ice and need to crawl your way out.” My heart started beating a little faster after that. Made me wish I hadn’t asked. However, if the ice could hold packs of sled dogs and snowplows, it was safe enough to hold my skinny-fat body. If it were thinner, the skating could crack the ice, producing a sound similar to when thick metal cables snap. Spada said he likes to skate as early in the season as possible when the ice is just thick enough to hold a human body. “Some people would call it unsafe,” he said. “Skating on any wild ice is an inherently risky sport. But when you get on the ice and it starts singing, giving on those laser sounds like in ‘Star Wars,’ it’s magic.” Spada has fallen through twice and has assisted others who’ve fallen
Winter 2020
in, too. The first time he fell in he was wearing fleece clothing and got soaked. He pulled himself out but had some friends help strip him down and change clothes. Then they kept skating. He said it is not just about what gear you have — dry suit, personal flotation device, ice picks — but also how calm you can remain. “If you think about how long you have before you’re in trouble or before hypothermia sets in — if you visualize what you need to do, then you can be prepared when it happens. Besides the physical parts of getting wet and cold, it’s also a mental challenge.” Although my legs were exhausted and the boots starting to ache and pinch my ankles, I managed to reach the boathouse very slowly but surely. For my first time skating, I regard it as an accomplishment. Mirror Lake is an easy spot for Tri-Lakers to frequent, but there are countless patches of wild ice to skate in the Adirondacks. Spada’s trips have taken him on lakes, ponds, rivers and streams. Even though he loves Lake Champlain, he said it’s hard to pick which water body is his favorite. “An area like Lake Champlain is great because it’s so open with a big sky above you and miles of ice ahead of you,” he said, “but small ponds have a lot of nooks and crannies that are great for exploring. Then you’ve got streams and rivers, and it’s like riding a narrow sidewalk of smooth ice on the shoreline, carving around bends and going under trees. Every waterbody is different, so it’s difficult to pick a favorite.” Spada’s vision of vast waterbodies, winding creeks and risky yet beautiful wild ice fills me with a sense of adventure. And perhaps I can experience it for myself as soon as I get over the baby-deer-trying-towalk phase of my training.
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Buyer’s guide
How you can tell
W
If the ’shoe fIts
e had the first snow of the season in November. Granted it wasn’t enough to go snowshoeing in many places, but up in the High Peaks it was raring to go. Whether you went or not, I would bet it got some of you thinking about it. I know there are many people out there who have never snowshoed before and many who might want to give it a whirl this year. This can be a daunting task for someone not attuned to the snowshoe market. This is how it usually plays out. You walk into a gear shop, step up to a wall of snowshoes that measures 20 feet wide and 10 feet high, praying to God that it doesn’t avalanche on you, and maybe even feel a bit dizzy by the thought of trying to decipher the differences. Been there? I was there when I first started out about 200 years ago, and the overwhelmed look on my face must have screamed out because it wasn’t long before an associate pounced on me. I had a million questions, so it seemed, but only a few really seemed important at the time: ¯ Why is that one a hundred bucks more than that one? ¯ Why are there so many different sizes of the same snowshoe? ¯ Why are those teeth thingys going in different directions? ¯ Which strap system is better? ¯ What shoes do I wear with these? ¯ Is there a left and a right? ¯ Can I get a beer? Now the overwhelmed look was on the associate’s face as well. He fetched another employee who had more experience, and eventually my questions were answered. Of course, over time and many years of snowshoeing, and using all different styles of snowshoes on different types of terrain, I have collected quite a quiver of snowshoes, and a much higher understanding of them. One of the biggest keys is to not under-buy your snowshoes. You can do less with more, but not more with less. Let me explain. It’s hard to use a recreational snowshoe for mountaineering, but you can use a mountaineering snowshoe for recreational outings. What I mean is, don’t buy more than what you need. So if you will never snowshoe a High Peak or do mountaineering, don’t buy a mountaineering snowshoe. How6
PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
ever, if you might, consider finding a snowshoe that does it all. As you read on, this concept should make more sense.
Different types of snowshoes
This is based on four different styles of snowshoes, and from there you can gain more insight on the actual parts and functions of the snowshoe. Don’t worry, I break down most of the terms you may not be familiar with. Recreational — These snowshoes are great for the beginner or those wishing to do mostly flat terrain with only slight changes in elevation. These don’t come with a heel lift bar but EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
do offer outstanding flotation. Maybe you want to see a backcountry pond or lake. Touring — These snowshoes are for an intermediate snowshoe outing. They have a slightly more aggressive crampon pattern and work great for more demanding terrain. These are excellent for backpacking and small mountain excursions. Some models have heel lift bars for easier climbing. They have excellent flotation as well. Mountaineering — These snowshoes are developed for the most demanding and rugged terrain out there. They are typically much Continued on page 7 Winter 2020
Buyer’s guide
well for older kids where a men’s snowshoe could still be too large.
Continued from page 6
smaller for maneuverability and for use on packed/consolidated snow. They tend to give the least amount of flotation under powder conditions. Tails are available for some models to help with flotation as needed; they can be put on and taken off as needed. The crampons on these snowshoes look to be something you could use as a weapon in battle, which essentially I guess they are. They are very aggressive and there are many more of them. The crampons face in both directions and on some snowshoes line the side of the snowshoe for better side hill traversing. Running — This is a snowshoe typically around 25 inches in length and much lighter. These are designed for running or racing and made to work with smaller footwear like a waterproof running shoe. These could also work as a recreational snowshoe for a smaller woman or child.
Wood or metal?
Wood is the old-school snowshoe that is still used today but mainly as a touring snowshoe. Aluminum is the material of choice making them much lighter and much more durable. Aluminum is mainly the material you will see in most outfitters, gear shops, and rental programs.
What sex is your snowshoe?
There are three major differences between men’s and women’s snowshoes: Length — This is the smallest difference, but women’s snowshoes are typically shorter due to the average weight of the user. Width — Women’s snowshoes are narrower. A woman’s gait and stride is much narrower than a man’s, so the snowshoes are narrower to avoid the user from stepping on the sides. Bindings — The bindings are narrower to fit a smaller foot and boot. Women’s snowshoes are a great alternative for young children. Can a man wear a woman’s snowshoe or a woman wear a man’s snowshoe? Of course. It is important to get a good fit, if that’s what it takes, I won’t tell anyone.
Is traction really necessary?
In most cases, yes. All styles have a slightly different crampon style, pattern and aggressive configuration. For example, a recreational snowshoe will have fewer crampons and be less aggressive for less aggressive terrain. A mountaineering snowshoe will have a very aggressive crampon pattern and typically many more of them. The mountaineering crampons tend to be a bit sharper too, this allows for good purchase on ice and snow on steep terrain.
What kind of snowshoe binding should I consider?
Every snowshoe company produces their own bindings, and in many cases each style of snowshoe has a different binding as well. The most important thing to look for is fit and comfort. Be sure the boot you are using fits in the binding comfortably and there are no pinch points on the top of the foot or toes. You could be in them for many miles and several hours at a time. Some bindings are easier to get on and take off. You should play around with them in the store and please do bring in your boots to try it all on for fit and comfort.
What is a snowshoe tail?
Tail extensions are not available for all snowshoes, only certain ones and certain brands like MSR. These tails add flotation in fresh snow conditions by adding length to the snowshoes. Continued on page 9
What snowshoe should I buy for my kids?
Kids snowshoes are made for children up to around 80 pounds. After that, they should get into a smaller snowshoe at around 25 inches, depending on weight. Woman’s snowshoes and running snowshoes work
Winter 2020
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PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY 8
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Winter 2020
Buyer’s guide size down one length, but if you encounter snow drifts or unconsolidated snow you will have to work much harder. Myself, I was once recommended a 36-inch snowshoe. However, when I got it and started using it, it was very cumbersome on packed trails and even breaking trail while bushwhacking. Keep in mind what you are doing. I ended up much happier with a 30-inch for bushwhacking and trail breaking, and a 26-inch for packed trails.
Continued from page 7
Should I use poles when snowshoeing?
It’s a great idea to use poles with snowshoes. It aids with balance and speed and takes some of the work off your legs, especially on the uphill. They should be two- or three-piece adjustable poles and be set in a comfortable length. Usually having your arm at a 90 degree angle works best for most users. Adjustable poles make it easier to attach to your pack or stowaway when not in use, and to adjust length for terrain and snow depth.
Are there certain types of footwear I need to have for snowshoeing?
The best footwear for snowshoeing is an insulated and waterproof boot. When choosing a snowshoe though, you need to consider that not all bindings are big enough for all boots. Some pack boots — like Double Plastic, Mountaineering, Sorel or Baffin — are very large and the binding might not be big enough. If you can bring in the boots you will be using to try them with the binding before you buy, that would be best. Softer footwear is not the best choice with some bindings as the straps can create a pinch point over the top of the foot or toes. If you use a softer boot, look for a binding that wraps around the foot rather than just straps.
A heel lift, what the heck is that?
This small bar on the back of a snowshoe
Winter 2020
How do I snowshoe?
near the heel of your boot flips up for easier climbing. On steep terrain you use much more of your calf muscle and fatigue sets in faster. With the bar, you can keep your feet flatter and in turn use the larger muscles of your legs. In a sense, it is like walking up a set of steps rather than a steep slope. The bars should be in the down position for any downhill or flat terrain. The heel lift comes on mountaineering and some recreational snowshoes.
How do I choose my correct size and length?
Sizing is based on the weight of the user, not height or shoe size. Don’t be afraid to be honest with the sales associate about your weight; they can see you. You will need a certain length snowshoe to support your weight under fresh snow conditions and if you get a snowshoe too small for the conditions, you won’t enjoy your trip. If the trails are packed you could essentially
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Snowshoeing can be cumbersome to some people. Practice makes perfect, and there is no real danger in practicing. It’s not a horrible idea to take a small intro to snowshoeing course if you feel more comfortable. Think of it like walking with really big feet.
What if I buy these and they break down after one season?
Warranties for most snowshoe companies are pretty good. Many companies will repair for free and in some cases replace. A store associate will have more details on companies return ethics.
I don’t want to buy right now, can I just try it out?
It’s a great idea to rent before you buy anyhow, if the option is available. Many gear shops will put the rental fee toward a pair of new snowshoes if you decide to buy from them that day. With that offering, you have nothing to lose.
9
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10
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Winter 2020
e Summer Triad Patch: Hike Between March 21 - Dec. 19th and receive this patch
Winter Triad Patch: Hike Between Dec. 20 - March 20th to receive this patch
The Tupper Lake Triad GOODMAN MOUNTAIN Distance, one way: 1.7 miles Elevation: 2178 feet Ascent: 581 feet
CONEY MOUNTAIN
Distance, one way: 1.1 miles Elevation: 2280 feet Ascent: 548 feet
MOUNT ARAB
Fire tower at the top Distance, one way: 1 mile Elevation: 2545 Feet Ascent: 764 feet Winter 2020
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11
Gear up
CoMfort IN aNy CoNDItIoNs
N
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
o matter the destination, no matter the part of the Adirondacks, no matter the conditions at hand, I see improperly prepared people hiking in the winter cold without consideration to the what-ifs. I mostly attribute that to a lack of experience and knowledge of layering and proper “pre-game” preparation. Proper equipment and layering is essential for safe and enjoyable winter outdoor sport activities, such as snowshoeing, mountaineering, cross-country skiing and so forth. You can’t know how to layer up properly if you don’t have an understanding of the materials used to make the gear. This will help you to start preparing for layering, wind protection, wet weather protection, snow protection, emergency protection and make having that safe experience even more enjoyable. It’s not all black and white, and I try my hardest not to be judgmental or show favoritism. But when it comes to the winter, I cannot hold my tongue.
Wool works for sheep and it will for you too
Wool stays warm when wet, even if it’s saturated. That should say it all right there. Wool also dries quickly under the right conditions. Wool isn’t always heavy to wear, look like hunting garb or rough to the touch. It has been around and used in the outdoors for centuries. You may not see the old school wool on very many hikers, skiers, ice climbers or mountaineers any more, mainly because of the wondrous alternative of lightweight and fitted merino wool. Merino wool is much lighter and softer to the touch. If you have an allergy to wool, merino wool still may not be a viable substitute, but it might be worth a try as long as allergic reactions are not severe. 12
PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
Cotton Kills!
Betcha haven’t heard that before. The saying “cotton kills” is as true as the sky is blue. Will it kill you every time you wear it? No. Will it harm you or cause you injury every time you venture on a trail with it? No. Does it increase your chances of cold injury? Yes. Simply put, leave it at home. It has no place in the backcountry during the colder months. Sure, cotton is comfortable, soft and inexpensive, and the options for style are grander. However, once cotton gets wet, it stays wet. Then it freezes. Then you freeze and life becomes miserable as a human popsicle. If camping in winter and your cotton gets wet, you will wake up the next morning with blocks of ice that you have to wear, and that means you will have a hard time warming up throughout the day, and you will never be completely dry. Because of that, cotton accelerates hypothermia and makes your body work harder than it should to stay warm.
the right clothing can make winter travel enjoyable, no matter how cold it gets.
Merino wool is produced from merino sheep, which have softer wool. This type of wool was originally produced in Spain, but over the decades it has been popping up all over the world. New Zealand and Australia are two of the largest producers of merino wool. Merino wool helps regulate body temperature very well, especially as a baselayer, and it comes in several weights for additional protection. While providing excellent warmth, it does not overheat the user. Like all wool, merino wool is excellent for wicking moisture away from the skin, keeping your skin dryer and EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
your body temperature more stable. All wool contains lanolin, an antibacterial substance that reduces the unpleasant stench that many other clothing materials absorb once sweat is introduced to them. Much of the wool clothing can be worn for days on end without the worry of offending your hiking partner. The same might not be able to be said from that burrito you ate for breakfast. Merino wool is also expensive, even more Continued on page 13 Winter 2020
Gear up
A sheLL oveRMitt to KeeP You wARM
W
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
hen I first started snowshoeing, or just plain ole cold-weather wandering, I laughed at the prospect of owning or even using a mitt. They were so bulky, my hands never got cold and they just seemed unneeded. It’s amazing how age and experiences changes one’s tune. Now I have cold-related injuries from past brushes with frostnip and finger maintenance is very important. The prospect of not having a pair of mitts in my pack seems ridiculous. I started off using a one-piece, insulated mitt now and again as needed, especially for long exposure to winds and direct contact with snow and ice, as well as prolonged times of standing around. These worked well until I went to take a picture and got instant displeasure from the elements. That’s when I started researching other alternatives, and that is when I came across Outdoor Research’s (OR) shell mitt. Now I am on my second pair, the first lasted me 15 years or so. (I don’t think it was called Revel at that time though, but it’s practically the same mitt.) It’s only a shell, a highly water resistant barrier for the Adirondack elements, and I can wear it over a pair of glove liners with less bulkiness and added benefits.
Continued from page 12
so than regular wool products, but it tends to last just as long if not longer than non-wool products if you take care of it properly.
Polyester/synthetic materials and fleece
These are the most popular materials for outdoor clothing. This is mainly due to affordability, function, weight and their quick-drying properties. The largest downfall of synthetic materials is they are essentially plastic and petroleum products. The other downfall is the smell you can get from the materials from sweat penetration over time. When worn frequently, sweat gets imbedded into the material, where bacteria goes to work and settles in, causing the clothing to obtain and hold onto odors which are very difficult to wash out, even with special detergents. These materials dry quickly and most are very good at wicking moisture away from your skin, but they do tend to get colder quicker than wool. Fleece is sometimes made from old plastic bottles and makes for a great outer layer on warmer days and a cozy midlayer for colder days. Fleece makes for wonderful hats and light gloves, but gets wet very quickly in moist snow.
Duck and Goose Down
Down materials are not friends with moisture. Down is simply a feather layer under the Winter 2020
Details to think about
¯ What do you want to use it for? ¯ Where are you hiking? ¯ What is the weather going to be like? ¯ Are you capable of carrying an additional 3.5 ounces? I sure hope so. ¯ Do you want to look sexy or be comfortable?
Pros
¯ Lightweight at only 3.5 ounces (less than some energy bars) ¯ Ultra packable (fits in the palm of your hand or any nook and cranny of your pack) ¯ Breathable under warm conditions outer feathers of ducks and geese and used to fill outerwear, sleeping bags and other products. There are many different types of down “fill” categories like 200, 600 and 900. The higher the number, the better the down and the more expensive the piece. Down has excellent loft and the loftier the piece, the warmer it will be. While your down jacket is cozy and warm, be sure to keep it dry. Once the down is wet, it loses almost all of its insulating properties and essentially becomes heavy and useless. Do not hike in your down jacket, it is too warm and sweat will soak into the fibers and moisture, as I mentioned, is not down’s best friend. Use the down piece as a layer for above tree line, at camp or for extended idle time.
Primaloft is almost down, but not quite
Primaloft is essentially man-made down, sharing many of the same qualities. However, it retains its warmth when wet and is much less bulky. It was initially developed for the military as a warmth layer. When wet, it retains around 95 percent of its warmth values and retains its loft, making it an excellent product for EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
¯ Durable (I bushwhack dense and difficult terrain with these on and they withstand the sharpest of branches and rocks) ¯ Quick drying (see cons) ¯ Grippy palm for holding tight to your trekking poles, ski poles or tree stems ¯ Leash for easy on and off, but is removable if you are not into that sorta thing ¯ Pull-on loop and carabiner loop (I don’t recommend hanging them from your pack, keep them secure and out of the elements until you need them) ¯ Cinch cuff for a snug fit ¯ Less bulky (than old design and insulated versions) ¯ Use with you favorite glove liner ¯ Accurate sizing if used with a same size liner ¯ Affordable at only around an average of $50, screamin’ deals also exist which will get you in a pair at under $40.
Cons
¯ They can soak through if put in constant contact under pressure in wet snow conditions ¯ No warmth if used as a stand alone piece, but then again, why would you? I guess you could under warm conditions, I just never have. ¯ Only come in black, but that only matters if you are trying to match them to a lovely pair of pumps outdoor activities. There are several thinner pieces of outerwear made with Primaloft that are a great alternative for fleece and a mid-layer.
Breathable waterproof shell
This piece is the outer portion of your layering system that should be waterproof and non-insulated. This layer is also windproof and traps heat, making you warmer from less loss of body heat. There are many different companies making waterproofing for shell layers, but Gore-tex is possibly the most popular and essentially the most expensive. It is best to also have a shell with some sense of breathability to allow some body heat to escape. The materials you have just read about are pretty much the materials you will see out there, or slight variation there to. Of course if you have further questions on outwear and the materials they are made from, most companies have a section online within their product line to give you much more in depth product descriptions and construction details. You can also swing into a reputable gear shop and pick the brain of a local associate. 13
5 trips
WILMINGtoN-area s N oWs h o e t r I P s
Cobble Lookout
PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
Copperas Pond
Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain
aCtIVIty: snowshoe, hike DIffICULty: Moderate DIstaNCe: 1 mile, round trip PerKs: it is steep, but also short. the view out over the pond is quite nice, especially if you go to the far end of the pond and add a bit of distance. there is also the option of checking out owen Pond and winch Pond to make for a nice 3-mile loop. oBstaCLes: none in particular, but the regular precautions of winter travel always apply. QUote: “the initial portion of the trail is rather steep with many rocks littering the trail. this final section is rolling hills that quickly lead you to the shore of the pond. A lean-to rests on the shore down a small spur trail to the right.” — www.LakePlacid.com DIreCtIoNs: Follow state Route 86 out of Lake Placid and continue for 7 miles from the intersection of Route 86 and Route 73. the trailhead is on the right, with parking on the left.
aCtIVIty: snowshoe, hike DIffICULty: Moderate DIstaNCe: 2.7 miles, round trip PerKs: this is a fairly new trail, and has been significantly rerouted. in this reroute, additional views have been added so for the entire hike more views unfold in front of you. oBstaCLes: Any mountain can create challenges for hikers, so be safe. QUote: “outstanding views can be had from the open summit as well as from the cab of the tower.” — www.LakeChamplainRegion.com DIreCtIoNs: take exit 33 off the northway and head south on state Route 9 for 2.5 miles until you reach the campground, where you will find the trailhead. to access the more gradual trail, from the intersection of 9 and 9n in Keeseville, follow route 9 south 8.5 miles to the trailhead on your right.
14
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Winter 2020
5 trips
Cobble Lookout aCtIVIty: snowshoe, hike DIffICULty: easy DIstaNCe: 2.4 miles, round trip PerKs: ease-to-benefit ratio is good on this one. it’s a mostly flat hike with a view of whiteface and esther that will blow your mind. oBstaCLes: Parking lot can be a little tight at times, especially when there is a lot of snow. QUote: “it wasn’t long before i started the final approach to the ledge. i could see it through the trees as the trail widened through the conifers, and then i was there looking out over the rubbled top. there was not enough snow to cover the rocks and gravel that were there, making for an awkward walk on snowshoes. the wind was a bit bitter at times, but not too strong. i continued to walk along the edge to get additional views out toward the Jay Range, but the view of esther and whiteface in the forefront took most of my attention. what a unique perspective.” — www.WhitefaceRegion.com DIreCtIoNs: From the four-way intersection in wilmington, follow the whiteface Memorial highway. At the top of the hill there is a split, left is the toll Road and right is Gillespie Drive. Follow Gillespie Drive for about 0.3 miles to the trailhead on the right.
Flume Knob
silver Lake Mountain
Silver Lake Mountain aCtIVIty: snowshoe, hike DIffICULty: Moderate DIstaNCe: 2.2 miles, round trip PerKs: this is a perfect snowshoe hike for the entire family, but will be a nice challenge in areas due to steepness. oBstaCLes: the upper portion of the mountain could be a bit slippery where it gets steep. it may be necessary to go around the obvious steep route. QUote: “once atop silver Lake Mountain, be sure to take in the view of whiteface in the near distance and silver Lake below. this hike is also a great one to do in the winter, as it often gets less snow than the Lake Placid region and thus can be more easily summited.” — www.PureAdirondacks.com DIreCtIoNs: From wilmington, take Bonnieview Road to the end. At the t, take a left on silver Lake Road. Follow this road for just over 5.5 miles until you reach the trailhead on your right.
Winter 2020
aCtIVIty: snowshoe, hike DIffICULty: Moderate DIstaNCe: 4 miles, round trip PerKs: this trail doesn’t get used a ton, especially in winter, but when the conditions are good it is a fun climb with a stellar payoff. oBstaCLes: the trails in the beginning are also used for cross-country skiing, so be mindful of ski tracks and snowshoe to the side. QUote: “since you have to hike through the biking trails to get to the two hiking-only trails at the Flume trail system, you’ll want to take a picture of the map at the trailhead or download/print the map, as the signs at the intersections flume can get confusing. it’s one thing to accidentally loop Knob back onto the same trail when moving fast on a bike, but it’s a little less fun when you’re hiking on foot with a mountaintop destination in mind!” — www.PureAdirondacks.com DIreCtIoNs: the main trailhead to the Flume trail system is on state Route 86. when you’re driving from Lake Placid toward wilmington, you will pass the hungry trout Resort and Restaurant on your left 1 mile after the entrance to whiteface Mountain. Just after the hungry trout, you will go over a bridge and the trailhead is immediately on your left.
EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
15
Ice safety
You be the judge
W
What happens here is you get a sandwich of old ice/water/new ice. None of it is truly safe and in fact there might not be old ice at all in some areas.
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
ith winter here it can be hard to resist the temptation to ski or snowshoe across frozen lakes and ponds, and maybe even some wide stream and river crossings. All I can start to say is: Please be careful! There are a ton of studies out there that analyze ice safety and seasonal structure, but it’s not an end-all-be-all situation. Mother Nature is the only scientist that truly knows what’s going on out there, and she has a way of changing the normal to be abnormal. Below is a bit of insight on the subject, some scientific, some common sense, some from experience and just some other food for thought. This is not a bible to ice crossing, but some things to get the wheel turning inside your winter recreation brain.
Pressure ridges
These are one of the best known ice hazards and I can attest from experience on the Bouquet River about a dozen years back when I tried to cross one and fell through. The ice then fell on my snowshoes and I was in an ice bath up to my knees, sitting on the edge, praying it held or I would have been washed under and found in the spring. Thankfully, I had a hiking buddy who assisted by also falling through. However, he 16
PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
T o c ross o r n ot t o cr oss
Swamps
broke away the ice from my snowshoes and we crawled back to shore and high-tailed it 2 miles back to the car. These heaves are sometimes hard to see if fresh snow has covered them, but they often happen where current is the swiftest and during thaw-freeze events. They look as though they would be safe, but when in fact they are scary.
Small or shallow ponds
These present some hazards that are often unexpected. Their size and shallowness allow the water in them to cool quickly and freeze earlier in the season. However, since they are in early, they can go out early and refreeze overnight, depending on weather cycles. EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
These are one of my least favorite crossings and they account for many wet hikers. Many of the breakthroughs are into a muddy bottom but they can be in deep water too. Their shallowness can limit the thickness of ice. From what I understand, vegetation gives off heat and can also reduce the thickness of the ice. In swamps, I always tend to stay away from floating logs and dead standing snags as they seem to be areas of weakness.
Ice over moving water
This behaves much differently than ice on lakes. The most prudent course of action is to stay off of ice over rivers and creeks. If you go out on river ice, go with people who have considerable experience on the river of interest and take all the standard precautions (which I will talk about in a bit). I strongly recommend staying off free flowing rivers as they usually have higher flow velocities and more irregular bottom profiles. Impounded rivers are a bit more predictable although they behave quite differently than lakes. There are a lot of obvious reasons why Continued on page 17 Winter 2020
Ice safety Continued from page 16
rivers are more problematic: ¯ Their currents erode the ice from underneath which you cannot see or predict. ¯ River ice can come and go more rapidly and less predictably than lake ice. ¯ If you do fall through there is the added risk of being swept under the ice, something you would be very unlikely to survive. ¯ Flow rates change a lot. ¯ Water coming out of a lake is likely to be about 36 degrees and will not freeze until it has run far enough through cold air to reduce the whole river flow to 32 degrees, and that is not easy to predict.
Some thoughts and ideas for safe travel
¯ Check with your local gear shop or guides service to see if they have “beta” on ice thickness and conditions. ¯ Carry “ice claws” and a 50-foot length of rope (throw rope) in order to help yourself— or others—in an emergency. ¯ Tread lightly by wearing skis or snowshoes to help distribute your weight over the ice. ¯ In a group, keep your distance from others (about 50 feet). That way, if someone falls in, others are less likely to go under, too. This also spreads out the weight if thinner ice were to hold. ¯ Trekking or ski poles work great, but carry them perpendicular to your body in both hands so you can use them to catch the edge of the ice. ¯ Unbuckle your pack so you can quickly get it off if you go through. The added weight could pull you under. ¯ Avoid weak spots like inlets, outlets and narrows that hide underwater currents that can weaken the ice from below. ¯ If you know the lake’s summer patterns, Winter 2020
PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
Cold, hard facts
1. In 32.5 degrees Fahrenheit, most immersed adults should expect exhaustion or unconsciousness to take effect in less than 15 minutes. 2. New ice is stronger than older, weathered ice. 3. Direct freezing of lake water is stronger than ice formed from melting snow or refrozen ice. 4. Obstructions such as rocks, logs, vegetation and pilings can affect the strength of the ice. 6. Ice shifting and expanding will create pressure cracks and ridges around underwater obstructions. 7. Underwater streams or springs with flowing water will cause weak spots by keeping the water circulating. 8. Ice near the shore of a frozen lake may be unsafe. Ice closer to shore is weaker because of shifting, expansion and sunlight reflecting off of the bottom of the lake, causing it to continually thaw and refreeze. However it is safer to be near shore if you were to fall through. 9. Ice can form pressure cracks that are potentially hazardous to cross. 10. Stay off honeycomb-like ice. It’s inundated with air pockets and is unstable.
Ice crossings can be dangerous for humans and dogs.
steer clear of weedy places that create underwater compost masses, which generate heat. ¯ Study the color: clear ice with a bluish tint is the safest. White, milky ice is a sign of melting and reforming ice, which leaves air pockets that weaken it. While such ice can be passable, it’s not preferred (especially if covered in snow, insulating the ice beneath). Don’t tread on dark, thin ice. ¯ Check ice thickness by using a test pole out in front of you, especially on areas that look iffy. ¯ Crossing creeks can be easy. Try to locate where rocks are by snow and ice pattern and step there, dead center, with a low center of gravity and do it quickly. Don’t make a vacation out of it. ¯ Crossing creeks where others have crossed is a good start, but don’t always play on that safe feeling. You don’t know who they were, how big they were, if they weakened the ice below them, if they got lucky or the age of the tracks. Remember talking about erosion from below? ¯ Don’t trust ice or snow bridges.
Survive a dunking
If you fall through the ice, remain calm and keep your clothes on, as they can help you float to the surface. Skis, snowshoes and backpacks are a hindrance, so dump them — they can be replaced you cannot. Swim toward the spot you fell in, get your hands and arms on the ice and kick vigorously with your feet. Use your ice claws, trekking pole tips or ice axe to gain traction. Pull yourself onto the surface, lie down, and roll away from the weak ice. You will have to kick hard and pull at the same time, this is much harder EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
than it seems, but the sooner you start this process the better. Seek shelter, dry clothes and hot drinks immediately.
Gear and thoughts to have along for possible and known ice crossings:
¯ Ice claws: easy to make, easier to buy ¯ Throw rope/bag, same one you would essentially have as paddling gear ¯ Warm drinks, energy gels and food. The food will make your body start to digest and produce heat. ¯ Plastic grocery bags (work great as a vapor barrier if you soak your feet) ¯ Trekking poles or staff (Even if you just grab a stick on shore you can use this to test ice ahead of you or use it to widen your body mass if you fall through. Think of it like a dog trying to carry a stick through a narrow door, it just doesn’t work unless it’s turned sideways.) ¯ Tarp or blanket for someone who may fall through (a dry/warm place to sit that isn’t snow) ¯ Common sense, don’t leave this at home ¯ Planned itinerary to leave at home with a loved one (always important) ¯ Everyone should have this stuff, you never know who might go through (hopefully no one): Full change of clothes; Chemical warmers; Fire starter kit and always call 911 first. So, there you have it, but surely not all of it. You can always learn more, maybe go for a polar bear plunge for a local charity event and put a real life feel to just how cold it is to be submerged. Short of that, please do some additional reading, use your head, and stay safe out there, the world is more interesting with you in it. 17
adventure
roUNDING UP the CreW for BLUff PoINt
PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY
B
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
luff Point Hill can be found on the northeast shore of Raquette Lake, right on the edge of the Sargent Ponds Wild Forest. It’s one of those named peaks that might get overlooked or maybe even ignored by the passing crowd of paddlers and boaters. For me that can make it all that more desirable a peak to visit. My hiking companions and I would surely have a deserted summit to ourselves. The usual suspects by the names of Jimbo, Corenne, Abby and I stood on the shore of the Raquette River near the conclusion of the North Point Road wondering what we would find as we strolled along this quiet shore and then along Raquette Lake. Conditions in the woods were still very sporadic in late fall and we hadn’t a clue what we would be up against. We did plan ahead and managed to get a much earlier start than usual for a short hike like this, hoping that the thaw and freeze effect we had been getting recently would solidify the snow enough to carry us along. We knew herd paths lined the shore in this area, but under snow and heavy deer foot traffic they were not to be found, or even really needed. Apparently whitetail deer populations are healthy in this area. We spotted one on a small island looking at us like we were an odd circus attraction, which quite honestly we may have been. Another we saw running across the channel. We cheered her on, and to our surprise she made it, a mere 10 feet or so from open water no less. A third one appeared to have been met by a pack of coyotes as there was not much left. Our snowshoes stumbled us along as we followed the post-holed terrain that the deer had so graciously created for us. The divots,
White pine while not too big, were in abundance and in their unchanged frozen state they frequently caused us to stagger, as though we had made a morning call upon the liquor cabinet. Besides that, it wasn’t long before we realized this would be a cakewalk as long as the snow stayed as hard as it was. Soon we came to what appeared to be a cedar bog on the shore of the lake. There was a small brook running through it, stems of local meadowsweet and several stumps poked through
the snow cover. It was quite a lovely sight, even in its frozen state. At this point it was quite tempting to just walk the frozen edge of the river down to the western slopes of the mountain, but as I have mentioned many times in the past, that is not my cup of tea. We stayed fairly close to shore, as much as we could until we reached a small bit of private Continued on page 19
nPt: whitehouse to PiseCo LAKe
I
By SPENCER MORRISSEY
n the summer issue of Embark I detailed the first section of the Northville-Placid Trail — from Northville to Benson — and in the fall issue I described the second section from Benson to Whitehouse. This time around, I will briefly overview section three from Whitehouse to where the trail goes back in the woods in Piseco Lake. Again it is very important to remember to spot a car at the opposing end or plan to be picked up. This section of the trail measures out to just under 12 miles of rolling terrain where you will only gain about 900 feet in elevation. The highest point on this section of trail is around 1,900 feet in elevation, which is a bit lower than the last section. This 12-mile hike is a nice day trip and honestly, if you don’t want to, you don’t have to walk the roads through Piseco, unless of course you are a purist like me. There’s about 8 miles of trail 18
and around 4 miles of road. The following is a brief overview of the trail section. For more in depth information, mileage, etc., pick up a copy of the Northville/Lake Placid Trail, a trail guide put out by the Adirondack Mountain Club (ADK). From the trailhead, the route is obvious and you quickly come to the intersection for this end of Section 2 that comes in from Benson. From here, the trail slowly starts to climb over a lovely route through a welcoming hardwood forest. This mellow climb is bringing you up and over the shoulder of a small peak called Flat Iron, which is a flat wooded peak with not much for discerning features. As you crest the shoulder, you will remain within a couple contours and not gain or lose much for elevation for a while. A couple settled wet areas exist in here as you come
Buckhorn Lake
Continued on page 19 EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Winter 2020
Continued from page 18
property that we had to skirt. This pushed us away from the lake a bit but quickly brought us back once we were past the half-dozen or so camps. The path remained open as we passed through a lovely boreal forest and on occasion we would have a chance to gaze upon some giants. There were several white pines in this one particular area that would have taken all three of us to hug. Not far or long after our tree groping ceremony, we decided we should snap a few pictures out over the lake toward West Mountain and start our climb up the shoulder of Bluff Point Hill. The boreal forest soon departed and was replaced by open hardwoods and relentless slapping beech whips mixed in just for fun. As the terrain steepened we began to slow a bit and eventually the snow became deeper and much less consolidated on the abrupt grades. We crawled on our hands and knees to get over a pair of larger fallen red spruces in our path, but that was truly all we had to contend with. Now we could start to see something beside the snow in front of us. Raquette Lake was in nearly full view through the leafless maples and yellow birches, and beyond that was Pilgrim Mountain. Finally atop this little guy, we were surprised to have a decent little window over the smaller trees and off toward the High Peaks. It was very hard telling what we were looking at, but with the white-capped summit it was surely well over 3,500 feet in elevation. After a bit of summit exploring in hopes of finding additional views, we gave up and started a descent route down the northern ridge. The forest remained open and a few smaller bluffs along the way down gave us hope for additional views, but none were awarded to us. The ridge was gentle and slowly we made progress down and slightly left in order to match up with our tracks on the way in. The mountain said “hello” in a friendly sort of way, but for now we must say “goodbye,” until next time.
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FLY FISHING
Continued from page 18
around a bend with the steep slopes of Nettle Hill on your right. Nettle Hill is another peak with little to no views, but some interesting cliff features on the S/SW side. Now you can settle in for a lovely walk to a crossing of Hamilton Lake stream and not much farther beyond that. There are some nice places to camp in this area if you were combining a couple sections or doing a thru-hike. From here the trail starts to undulate, giving you more of a workout, but again, nothing too demanding. The ascent isn’t off the charts, but it is there, and over the next stretch or so you will gain a few hundred feet and lose some in there as well. The trail swings a bit more northerly as it goes through a pass between Priests Vly Mountain to your right and Lost Lake Mountain to your left (the lake has been found, thank you for asking). A slight drop along the way will bring you to Priests Vly which it totally worth the extra time to check out. Walk up and down the shore for additional views out over the grassy area — faint herd paths may help you out. Now another moderate climb will bring you to the height of land along the trail, which is on the shoulder of an unnamed peak, sometimes referred to as Dead Vly Mountain. More rolling terrain is ahead of you, but generally the trail conditions are quite good. In the fall with leaves covering the trail, I could see it being a bit harder to see in spots. Soon you will see Dead Vly down over the hill to your left and then a foot bridge over an outlet of Buckhorn Lake. Just over the bridge, on the right, is a herd path to Buckhorn Lake. Don’t pass this up, the vistas out over the water are quite nice. A herd path on the left of the bridge will bring you down to a small waterfall below the bridge, also a nice spot to relax and just listen to the water crash around you. From here on out to state Route 8 is an easy stroll and a great place to park your car if you don’t want to walk the roads through town. If you do want to walk the roads, this is how you’d do it, and in all actuality, it’s not that big a deal either way. No one is here to judge. At Route 8, head left for about 0.1 miles to Old Piseco Road on the right and turn here. Continue for just under 2.5 miles, past the airport to Haskells Road on the right. Walk Haskells Road to its end where the NPT goes back in the woods, around a mile. There you have it, section three. Next up will be Section Four from Piseco to West Canada Lakes. Winter 2020
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EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
19
fauna and flora
uP CLose with the vARiAnt hARe Scientific name:
Lepus timidus
Common names:
Rabbit, Snowshoe Hare
Habitat:
The variant hare lives in nests above ground. Most nests are built in depressions in grassy areas for some added protection. Rabbits are known to live in burrows or “holes in the ground.” One of the main reasons for this is that when a hare is born they are fully “clothed” with their eyes open, so they are more able to protect themselves by fleeing and from the elements. Rabbits, on the other hand, are born “naked” with eyes closed and cannot protect themselves and need the shelter.
Protection:
There is no special protection for hares, however there is a hunting season developed in New York for harvesting. PHOTOS PROVIDED
Food source:
In the summer, hare feed on grasses, ferns and leaves, and in the winter eats more bark and buds. This may very well be the case in your
yard when you see about a foot to two feet of bark missing up one of your hedges or bushes. It is also reported that they have been seen feeding off dead animals in the coldest of winters when food is more scarce. So there is no fear of them coming into your camp and stealing your food, unless of course you are a vegetarian, then you might want to run.
Bonus information:
It gets its name snowshoe hare from its large back legs which help them stay aloft on the snow. The varying comes from its ability to change hair color. In the winter their fur turns white and other seasons it is brown. However, while this is excellent camouflage during the appropriate season, the snow tends to come and go as it pleases leaving the hare more noticeable, hence more vulnerable to hunters and pray. (I can think of a lot of guys and gals who would love to go back to brown hair from white — for me, just having more of it would be nice.)
A CLoseR LooK At BALsAM FiR
Old school outdoorsman used to break off the boughs and lay them out to create a bed if they were camping or hunting in the backcountry. This came in handy as insulation from the cold. The sap is used regularly in creating pleasant scented candles, but was once used to create a bonding agent.
Scientific name:
Abies balsamea
Common names:
North American fir, evergreen, fir tree, short needle pine, it is also often mistaken as a spruce
Flowers and fruit:
These sweet smelling trees grow very sticky cones which are often seen as a deep red or purple in color, when young. The cone grows upward, rather than down, like spruce. The needles are also flat and soft in comparison to the needles of a spruce which are three sided and often sharp to the touch. You will surely know the difference if you bushwhack at any point through a stand of either. The balsam make you smell nice, which while hiking could be a good thing. The spruce just make you curse the sky.
Edible qualities:
Habitat:
Balsam trees love damp areas and moist soils. They can typically be seen in seeps, swamps, marshes and mountain tops. They also love areas where hardwood litter and decay is high, which creates added moisture. They can also grow in very dense stands covering a large area rather quickly.
Uses:
The balsam is a popular Christmas tree. It doesn’t grow to a substantial size or produce strong wood for lumber but some logging companies may harvest it for pulpwood. 20
I am sure you have seen or at least heard of balsam pillows. These are created as a novelty item to make your clothes drawers and closets smell fresh and outdoorsy. History has shown that its needles were often used to stuff mattresses and pillows before the invention of foam rubber. EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out
Native Americans have used balsam fir for many remedies. It is often used today to create a very pleasant and aromatic tea, which resembles what one might call the “taste of Christmas.” Steep the needles in boiling water for around 3-5 minutes. You will see the oils start to separate to the top. Strain out the needles, sip and enjoy. This is especially good while winter hiking or camping, but is also an enjoyable treat with friends and family around a fire on a cold winter’s day. The tea is said to help release headaches and coughs, and a remedy for the flu. I have never done this, but the inner bark has been noted as a thickening agent or flour. Collect the inner bark, dry it, and grind it up into a fine powder.
Allergies:
Some people with sensitive skin have been known to get contact dermatitis. It is also a known source for “hay fever” and seasonal allergies which can cause stuffy sinuses, and itchy eyes. Winter 2020
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